Drilling holes for pipes in walls. How to make holes for pipes in different places. How to make holes in a wall

There is a need to guide them through various obstacles, such as walls, floors and other elements building structures.

But before making holes for the pipe, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with by known methods implementation of such operations, which often affect not only load-bearing structures buildings, but also their decoration. In specific conditions of pipeline laying, a variety of techniques can be used, which are intended to be considered in our article.

What do you need to know?

Making holes in load-bearing walls and partitions presupposes compliance with the known requirements laid down in the current building regulations. When preparing them, it is necessary to carefully ensure that such critical elements of building structures and communications are not damaged, such as:

reinforcing and barrier gratings;
electrical wiring lines;
elements ventilation system(if available).

In addition, the hole prepared in the wall or floor must provide the possibility of placing a special protective sleeve in it, which, if necessary, can be insulated with any non-flammable material (mineral wool, For example).

General procedure

As for the main working tool, for the purposes we have outlined, a hammer drill or a fairly powerful impact drill with a “crown” type nozzle, with which you can make holes of various diameters. The order of their preparation in this case is as follows:

first, in the right place on the wall, a circle is marked, the diameter of which is equal to the cross-section of the pipe (together with the sleeve);
then using a crown of the appropriate size, a hole is drilled in the wall;
if the nozzle “slips”, you will need a punch and a hammer, using which you can destroy the material in a place that cannot be drilled;
After this, you can continue working until you get the finished hole.

To cut complex holes in certain materials, you will need to prepare a set of crowns various sizes. To drill partitions made of plasterboard, foam concrete, as well as wooden partitions, you can use ordinary steel drills.

Pay attention! In the case when it is necessary to drill a hole in concrete, you will need a set of special Pobedit drills. With their help, you can work with materials 10–15 cm thick.

Working with complex coatings

Pay attention! The main problem when working with tiled surfaces (in bathrooms, toilets and kitchens) is fragility facing material, to preserve which it is recommended to drill in a non-impact mode.

When preparing holes large diameter you can use the following methods:

use a special diamond “crown” as an attachment, when using which the drill should operate at low speed;
use a special device called a ballerina;
in order to exclude the possibility of the teeth of the nozzle or the tip of the ballerina slipping off the surface of the tile, which is smooth and covered with a layer of hard glaze, the latter is first scratched with a file or sealed with a piece of masking tape.

To make holes in tiles, a simpler and cheaper, but more risky method is often used, which consists of the following. First, using a regular drill with a diameter of 3–4 mm, several holes are drilled inside the marked circle. Then the spaces between these holes are carefully destroyed and removed using a well-sharpened chisel. And at the end of the work, using the same chisel, the edges of the hole are expanded to a given size.

Preparing holes in the floor

The procedure for preparing the designated holes depends both on the type of sexual base itself and on the type decorative covering, laid on top of it.

Before you start work, you should first decide whether it is possible to remove by cutting out or disassembling the section of decorative coating in the places where the pipes are laid. If it is impossible to perform these operations, a hole in the finishing material (in tiles, for example), and also in the sexual base itself is done in the ways already described earlier.

Video

Cut a large hole for chimney it's difficult right away. The author of the video shows how to do this by drilling small holes in a circle. Next, this will help you cut a hole of the required diameter with a crown:

When performing work related to repairs, laying communications and other operations, it becomes necessary to make holes in the pipe. This operation can be performed independently, without the help of a specialist and without specialized equipment.

You can drill a hole in a pipe yourself if you have a drill and a drill bit. required diameter. There are small specialized ones on sale drilling machines, which will help you make holes quickly, efficiently and safely.

To complete the work you will need the following tools:

The most important tool is a drill, specially designed for drilling holes using cutting tool(drills). When working with metal products It is necessary to use high-carbon steel drills or special drills with tips. During operation, overheating and blackening of the cutting tool is not allowed.
To fix the pipes during operation, you need a fixing tool - a vice.
To slightly widen the hole, you will need a file; a drill is not suitable for this purpose, since it bites the material, forming an uneven edge.
A hammer may be required if you need to punch a small hole or make a notch. Manual notching is required. locksmith tool– core.
Fix the drills in in the right position during drilling, it is possible using a homemade template from wooden block, which in the profile should have an M-shape, where the center of the cavity should coincide with the axis of the pipe. The horizontal side of such a beam should be equal to the outer diameter of the pipe, and the height should be about 50 mm. The hole drilled in the top will later be used as a guide. The template can be made with several holes of different diameters at once.
If there is no fixing tool (vise), you can make a device that combines a template and a vice, which is made in the form U-shaped clamp, in the upper part of which there are template holes for drilling. The body of the device is made of metal profile or from hardwood. There are 2 bolts installed on both sides, which act as a locking mechanism.

The article will be useful to a person both planning this work for the first time and having the “bitter” experience of labor intensity.

I was faced with a problem - to drill through a thick wall consisting of several layers, namely: a concrete block 200 mm thick, a sleeper 240 mm, plastered with 80 millimeters on each side, plus there is a provision between the block and the sleeper " airbag» 100 millimeters, no less. I may be wrong with the dimensions somewhere, but having measured the thickness in doorway, the wall was 730 millimeters.

There’s nothing scary about it, it’s just work and work, installing a water supply into the room attached to the house and that’s all, but the difficulty lies in the drilling different materials, plus drilling is available only on one side, from the extension.
In fact: plaster, block, sleeper, plaster. In addition to the hammer drill, you will also need a drill with a wood drill bit.

Orders of this kind occur quite rarely, once every five years, so to speak, and accordingly, a rarely used tool will be needed.

To drill holes for polypropylene pipes twenty (diameter = 21 mm) I need:

1. a drill for a hammer drill with a diameter of at least 22 mm (or better yet 25, remember that polypropylene expands for hot water supply?), and a length of at least 300 mm, this is the thickness of the plaster and concrete block. Have you ever drilled a sleeper with a drill?.. you'll be shocked...;
2. a wood drill, of the same diameter, at least 650 mm long, here I take into account the thickness of the conventionally drilled plaster and block, plus the “air cushion” and plus the sleeper itself;
3. drill for a rotary hammer with a diameter of 12, a length of more than 730, here is the full thickness of the wall (do we remember that you can only drill on one side? Yes, and the horseradish holes towards each other will coincide with two, and if you measure thoroughly, then the slope is any will be different).

Drilling a wall at once with a large-diameter drill is very labor-intensive and time-consuming; it is much easier and faster to drill a thin one, and then expand the hole with a larger one along the guide. I use this method up to several passes with different drills in increasing increments, depending on the ultimately required diameter. The “old-fashioned” method is very effective, you save a lot of physical effort, and what is important in my case is time - the work at first glance is “the cat cried”, all it takes is to remove two tubes, BUT the wall...

So, I went to the store, not familiar with the prices for the tool I need? The price tag for hammer drills, along with the length and increase in diameter, grows not just proportionally, but catastrophically, however, the same applies to screw drills.
Here are some screenshots with price tags:

Normal, right? And this is here in the provinces! I wonder what the cost is in regional and capital cities?

Alternative to long screw drill- feather, condition of suitability - you buy an extension cord, one is missing, you take two, fortunately connecting them together is as easy as shelling pears. That's exactly what I did, I already had one extension cord.

As a result, I received the required tool at a reasonable price, but you can’t explain to the customer that the tool is expensive; to put it mildly, he’s not interested. Visibility is only two half-inch tubes installed, but how you did it is your problem. The point is that an identical order, as I wrote above, will probably go through in the next five-year period, and the instrument will lie idle.

Step by step how I drilled:

1. from the side of the attached room, using a hammer drill with a 12 mm drill, I drilled through the plaster and block;
2. widened the hole with a 25 mm drill;
3. drilled the sleeper with a 25 mm feather drill;
4. then, again installing a long thin drill, I drilled through the plaster at the exit;
5. with a 25 mm drill, on the other hand, I expanded the diameter towards.

Conclusion:

In order to (one-time, or not one-time) drill concrete wall, say a meter thick, and a diameter of 32, it is not necessary to buy an expensive drill, but you will need one meter of millimeters 12÷16 in diameter. The second in increasing order may be 25, but already half a meter long, and the next passage is thirty-second, but again half a meter long, you drill them towards them. This is how I, for example, convey the idea in an accessible way, with variations depending on the occasion.

And one more thing: with feather drills, the option of gradually increasing the diameter does not work, you drill immediately with a wide feather, the price for them is a pittance in comparison with drills, and I have never seen thick wooden walls.

Two useful additions, naturally based on personal experience:

First:

When installing pipes, in addition to water supply, I also install sewerage if necessary. It’s no secret that the diameter of the pipes here is larger, from 40 to 150 millimeters; I don’t have a drilling rig with diamond bits, so I fulfill orders using the same hammer drill.
I proceed as follows: I mark a circle of the required diameter on the wall, drill holes along its perimeter with a thin long drill, then, using the same principle that I highlighted above, I expand the diameter of each hole to the maximum available in the arsenal. Then, replacing the drill with a spatula and switching the hammer drill mode to chiselling, I get rid of everything unnecessary. So... I agree the work is not pleasant, but this is just one of the disadvantages during installation. It should be borne in mind that this process is relevant for a small wall thickness, say a maximum of 300 millimeters, but for a much larger thickness you present the customer with a fact: ordering a drilling rig is a device, as noted above, using bits with diamond tips. The operation is not cheap, but with all the “breadth” of choice... the customer pays, then we come in with the installation.

Second:

Let’s say you carry out the first step yourself: you drill a concrete wall, trying to get a hole with a diameter of 140 millimeters, and you have a “surprise” in the form of reinforcement (usually in the walls panel houses).. You can’t take it with a drill, electric arc welding can help, in the absence of a grinder, which is problematic to use, access is difficult, you have to puff, creating access... in short, I don’t advise you to bother.
Exit: cut by welding or gas cutting. Isn't there such a thing? Find it! As in that saying: “It’s better to lose a day, but then fly in five minutes!”

Questions, additions: in the comments column, but that’s all I have for today, with respect

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The need to organize cavities in brick walls arises when placing furniture on them, household appliances and decorative items, laying communications and installing sockets. Application of high-performance modern instrument simplifies these works; with correctly selected drills, even non-specialists can perform them. The degree of complexity depends on the thickness of the structure and diameter; small recesses can be arranged yourself; ventilation ducts and niches require the involvement of professionals.

Rotary hammers and powerful drills operating in impact mode allow you to drill standard masonry efficiently and accurately. Suitable characteristics has equipment with a speed of up to 2500 rpm, a power of 0.6 kW and above, with the ability to smoothly adjust the force from 0 to maximum and reverse support. Preference is given to the option with a self-clamping chuck; when using it, it is easier to drill brick wall with large thickness (reduces time for replacing drills). The type, length and diameter of the nozzle are selected taking into account the parameters of the structure, depth and required channel cross-section.

Hole type and diameter	Optimal drill type
Up to 18 mm, recessed into the wall by a maximum of 15 cm	Universal, with pobedite inserts, diameter in the range of 0.6-0.8 cm
Through, with a small cross-section for brickwork with a thickness ranging from 40-60 cm	Drill bits for hammer drills up to 1 m long with rounded edges. Standard diameter shanks are 1 or 1.8 cm.
Through with structure widths over 60 cm	Removable drills with different lengths, but with the same diameter
Receptacle cavities, mid-pipes and junction boxes	Drill bits coated with hard alloys or diamond chips
Ventilation ducts, niches or openings of large diameter (from 15 cm and above)	Diamond core bits and drive or regular pobedit drills for making a series of holes followed by removing bricks

Single and shallow holes can be made manually using a special punch and hammer. In this case, a bolt is applied perpendicularly to a pre-marked place, driven deep into the masonry and turned on an axis every 2-3 blows. During the process, construction debris is constantly cleared from the tube; after reaching the desired depth, the punch is removed and the area is cleared of dust. Despite its simplicity, this method is considered labor-intensive and is mainly suitable for one-time work, drilling large number Only a perforator allows cavities in limited periods.

In addition to impact power tools for drilling, you will need assistive devices: metal detector, screwdriver or core, containers for cooling attachments and personal protective equipment. Portable devices for searching for pipes or wiring hidden under plaster are used in the absence of communication diagrams, an excessively thick layer of finishing, or in similar cases. For large volumes, it is worth renting a vacuum cleaner to remove dust. If it is necessary to create holes in precisely specified places to eliminate the influence of unevenness, a jig is applied to the surfaces; you can make a workpiece with a certain pitch and diameter from plywood yourself, sandpaper, glue or tape. The hardware fixed in the channels is selected based on their intended purpose.

Technology for drilling brick walls

At the preparatory stage, marking and checking of structures is carried out. Drilling near wiring, pipes or ventilation ducts is strictly prohibited; a metal detector is used to eliminate risks. In its absence, the finishing is removed from the masonry and communications are found by touch. This stage requires maximum care, but you can’t skip it; experts note that it’s easier to buy a tool or make cosmetic repairs than replacing damaged wiring or hidden pipes.

To fix the drill in correct position At the initial stage, places are marked with a core. Ideal option The location of these points in the masonry joints is considered, but it is not always possible. Before turning on a hammer drill or drill indoors, it is recommended to turn off the electricity, if there is hidden wiring– gas. An area within a radius of 2.5 m is protected from fragments; when working at a height of more than 1.5 m, a ladder must be installed. Preparatory stage ends with checking the markings and ensuring free access to the desired point.

You should drill evenly, positioning the drill at a right angle, avoiding sudden movements. If the length of the drills is correctly selected and the thickness of the structures is small, the work is completed in one pass; in other cases metal elements require periodic cooling with air or water. Removable drills of the same diameter with increasing length help to drill a hole in a wall with a thickness of over 25 cm. A simple sequence of actions is followed: drilling to a depth of 10 cm, cleaning, replacing the drill, deepening to 30 cm, repeat, completion. Not all drills have the required power; the recommended tool is a hammer drill.

The easiest way to arrange a channel for a pipe or prepare a surface for sockets is to use crowns of the appropriate diameter with diamond or pobedit coating. In this case, the emphasis is on marking and uniform drilling. At all stages, disruption of the masonry and damage to existing communications are avoided. If necessary quick receipt For holes with a diameter of 150 mm and above (up to 40 cm), specialized diamond drilling installations with forced water cooling are used.

The advantages include the absence of dust and vibration influences, good speed, low level noise, the integrity of the resulting edges and the ability to lay channels at any angle. The disadvantages are the high cost of rent or services, the need to attract specialists and drainage on the floor dirty water. Diamond drilling is chosen when there is a need for ventilation, installation of air conditioners and hidden electrical appliances, arrangement of niches, installation of all internal communications, including sewers.

If there is no equipment that allows you to drill a large hole in one go, or limited budget the brick is selected in stages. In this case, the marking process does not change: the marker indicates the main contour of a niche or opening, eliminating the risk of damage to communications. After this, a perforated row of small-diameter cavities is laid around the entire perimeter in increments of 1-1.5 cm; it is recommended to drill them with ordinary Pobedit tips. Thin partitions and walls are knocked out on their own with the last blows, thicker ones - with the help of a hammer and chisel. The selection of residues is carried out as carefully as possible, avoiding shedding of the edges or removing blocks beyond the marked line.

There are no special restrictions; a through-type hole can be made from any convenient side or from both sides. To speed up, simplify and ensure safe process advises:

1. Start drilling at low speeds (for plastered surfaces - no more than 300 per minute) with a gradual increase in power until the impact mode is turned on. Throughout the entire stage, not only the direction of the tool is monitored, but also its degree of heating. Fresh water is used for cooling clean water, the metal part of the nozzle is lowered into the container, the frequency depends on the thickness of the wall and the hardness of the brick.

2. Use special limiters to control the depth. You can make them yourself from a piece metal pipe or PVC tapes.

3. Drill uneven surfaces using a conductor - a plywood device that improves the quality of adhesion and reduces the risk of it moving to the side.

4. Redirect and promptly remove generated dust. For these purposes, another piece of plywood attached to the bottom of the conductor is suitable; for large volumes of work, it is worth renting or buying construction vacuum cleaner. A lot of debris is generated when drilling ceramics; it is impossible to drill through masonry without dust when using conventional equipment that is not cooled with water under pressure.

5. Use funds personal protection, first of all - gloves and glasses.

Walls covered with tiles, plaster or other cladding require special attention. Drilling channels in new masonry is easier: small holes are placed at the joint areas affecting the brick - in safe places. Soft and loose materials are passed at minimum speed, hard tiles are passed through using appropriate drills with a diameter 1-2 mm less than the required section. Strong pressure is avoided in any case.

To mark the required points, it is recommended to use a core; it scratches the lining without damaging it and keeps the drill in working mode. It also allows you to remove hard glaze from the tile without chipping it in other areas. Best results are achieved by placing holes at the joints of adjacent tiles. Drilling of finishing is carried out without turning on reverse and high speeds.

As we know, when laying water pipes and sewer pipes there is a need to conduct them through various obstacles, such as walls, floors and other elements of building structures.

But before you make holes for the pipe, you need to familiarize yourself with known methods implementation of similar operations, which often affect not only the supporting structures of the building, but also their finishing. In the specific conditions of pipeline laying, a variety of techniques can be used, which are intended to be considered in our article.

What do you need to know?

The arrangement of openings in load-bearing walls and partitions requires compliance with the known requirements laid down in the current building regulations. When preparing them, you need to pay close attention to ensure that such important elements building structures and communications, which are:

reinforcing and barrier gratings;
electrical wiring lines;
elements of the ventilation system (if any).

In addition, the hole prepared in the wall or floor must provide the possibility of placing a special protective sleeve in it, which, if necessary, can be insulated with any non-combustible material (mineral wool, for example).

Non-specialized work order

Before cutting a hole in the wall, it is recommended to examine its surface using a simple metal detector for the presence of electrical wiring or fittings in this place.

As for the main working tool, for the purposes we have outlined, in most cases a hammer drill or a rather remarkable impact drill with a “crown” type attachment is used, thanks to which it is possible to make holes of different diameters. The order of their preparation in this case is as follows:

first, a circle is marked in the desired place on the wall, the diameter of which is equal to the cross-section of the pipe (together with the sleeve);
after this, using a crown of the appropriate size, a hole is drilled in the wall;
if the nozzle “slips”, you will need a punch and a hammer, using which it will be possible to destroy the material in a place that cannot be drilled;
Then it will be possible to continue working until the finished hole is obtained.

To cut complex holes in certain materials, you will need to prepare a set of crowns different sizes. To drill partitions made of plasterboard, foam concrete, and wooden partitions, you can use simple steel drills.

Advice! In the event that you need to drill a hole in concrete, you will need a set of special Pobedit drills. With their help, you can work with materials 10–15 cm thick.

Working with complex coatings

Advice! The main problem when working with surfaces finished with tiles (in bathrooms, bathrooms and kitchens) is the fragility of the facing material, to preserve which it is recommended to drill without impact.

When preparing holes of enormous diameter, it will be possible to use the following techniques:

use a special diamond “crown” as an attachment, when using which the drill must operate in low speed mode;
use a special device called a ballerina;
To eliminate the possibility of the teeth of the nozzle or the tip of the ballerina slipping off the surface of the tile that is smooth and covered with a layer of hard glaze, the latter is first scratched with a file or sealed with a piece of masking tape.

To make holes in tiles, a simpler and less expensive, but more risky method is often used, which consists of the following. First, using a simple drill with a diameter of 3–4 mm, a pair of holes is drilled in the marked circle. After this, the spaces between these holes are carefully destroyed and removed using a well-sharpened chisel. And at the end of the work, using the same chisel, the edges of the hole are enlarged to the specified size.

Preparing holes in the floor

The procedure for preparing the designated holes depends both on the type of flooring itself and on the type of decorative covering laid on top of it.

Before starting work, first of all, you should decide whether it is possible to remove it by cutting out or dismantling a section of the decorative coating in the places where the pipes are laid. If it is not possible to carry out these operations, a hole in the finishing material (in tiles, for example), as well as in the floor itself, is made using the methods already outlined earlier.