The strawberries were frozen. Pleasant worries. Strawberries in spring. Fertilizing strawberries in spring: what and when
To help strawberries overwinter properly, it is necessary to protect the bushes from the cold by worrying about their shelter in advance. If this is not done, then in the spring the result can be quite disastrous - bushes frozen to the roots do not wake up from hibernation, and partially damaged bushes produce a weak harvest. Read on to learn how to cover strawberries for the winter and how to do it correctly.
Preparing for cold weather
It is a known fact that the roots of this plant are capable of dying at a temperature of about minus 8 degrees. And the part of the strawberry growing on the surface may not recover completely when the thermometer drops to minus 9. What should gardeners do in this situation? To avoid troubles and protect the plant during the cold season, you should cover the strawberries in advance.
To have time to do this before the onset of the first cold weather, to protect the roots you need to make a special shelter and hide the strawberries under a snow cap. But not only snow will become your faithful assistant in covering the plant. It is also recommended to feed the root system with manure or other components of organic origin. Mulching will also help protect the plant.
Starting in mid-autumn, strawberries should be prepared for the upcoming winter. If this is done a little earlier, then if there is high temperature air, you can achieve the opposite effect - plants can be prohibited in covered ground. The guideline for starting a set of measures to cover the plant should be freezing of the ground by 4 - 5 centimeters.
Shelter technique
By the onset of winter, strawberries should grow healthy leaves, which will provide excellent protection for the buds from frost. In autumn, you should follow the rules of agricultural technology, applying fertilizers and removing pests. At the end of summer, it is recommended to loosen the soil around the bushes. Strawberries should not be transplanted too late. It is also better to remove weeds in spring period. Snow can serve as the best thermal insulation for a plant, as it prevents the soil from freezing.
A layer of mulch consisting of humus, reeds, peat, pine and spruce needles, and reeds can prevent cracking of the soil. Its reserves should be stored in bags or simply poured out near the strawberry beds. Mulch should be used in an amount of approximately one bag per 24 - 26 plant bushes. Dry mulch, taken in an armful, needs to be covered on all sides with adult strawberry bushes, the layer should be about 10 - 15 cm.
After the onset of the first light frosts, the strawberries must be covered. Here it is important to take into account factors such as the geographical location of the site and its microclimate. To protect the bushes garden strawberries, cover them with straw large quantities. Just make sure that there are no seeds in the straw that can attract rodents, or sawdust.
In order to properly cover the plant, a material such as agrofibre is used. The thickness of the strawberry cover layer should be about 6 - 8 cm. If a little snow falls in winter, the bushes not covered with it can die due to the onset of sharp frosts. To delay the melting of snow in your garden area, it is recommended to shade it with boxes large size or other materials that are at hand. When it gets warm, the bushes of the plant should be freed from covering material so that they can have an area for normal height and development.
Help in the fight against negative impact for strawberries spring frosts Agrofibre is also capable. They need to cover the plant at night and remove the material in the morning to allow the bees to pollinate the plant. Experts advise, whenever possible, to grow those varieties of strawberries that are most suitable for your region. If there is a sufficiently large layer of snow, they can overwinter even without special shelter.
Shelter material
Many gardeners are concerned about an important question - how to cover strawberries for the winter? In snowless winter conditions, the best plant materials that will help you cover and protect strawberries from freezing are leaves, hay, straw, and spruce branches. The best option Experts call spruce spruce branches, under a layer of which you can place dry raspberry branches or brushwood in order to provide the plants with air access.
Another plant material has also proven itself well - pine needles. It is quite breathable, at the same time has thermal insulation properties and does not allow the strawberry bushes to damp out. Adult plants should be sprinkled with pine needles, as if hilling them in a circle, and young bushes can be completely covered. Even if there is no snow at all, and the thermometer drops to minus 25 degrees, with this method of protection a sufficient amount of heat will be retained on the ground.
If it is impossible to get needles or spruce branches, you can use purchased covering material called “Agrotex”. It will not allow rodents to settle near bushes, is breathable, can provide access to light and water, and can level out unwanted temperature changes.
Even in the presence of severe frosts, the temperature under such material will be much higher than in the open space. This air-dry method is quite good for beds with a small area. In addition to Agrotex, you can also use Spunbond or even film. Some gardeners have adapted to cover strawberries using these materials without using arcs. But experts do not recommend covering plants without arcs with materials, because there is a danger of freezing at the points of contact.
It grows well, but there are a lot of problems to solve when growing it. The fact is that the climate in Siberia is complex, in particular, despite the May periods of warming up to 25 degrees or more, often the weather then changes sharply, and a cold snap comes, which is accompanied night frosts. The most severe spring frost was recorded by me several years ago, when at the beginning of the third ten days of May it got so cold at night that by the morning the temperature dropped as much as minus 9 degrees!
Knowing about all these tricks of our weather, the first thing I do is try my best delay strawberry developmentearly spring. I don’t rake away the mulch from the pine needles that protected the strawberries in the winter, I don’t loosen it, I don’t water it, i.e. In general, I try not to touch it until mid-May, until the strawberries, despite all these tricks of mine, begin to actively grow.
But as soon as this process has actively begun, I take the pre-prepared one out of the pantry and place it in advance in full readiness next to each strawberry bed.
Now cover my entire small strawberry plantation from 250 bushes won't be any problem. In the evening, when there is a clear threat of overnight frost, I simply straighten the strips of covering fabric and cover the beds with them directly from above. When everything is at hand, this whole procedure takes 15-20 minutes. Fortunately, in our area, despite the strongest spring winds, as a rule, in the evening the violent weather stops, and you can even shelter alone.
In such cases, you have to either stay overnight at the dacha, or come early the next morning to free the covered strawberry beds from protection. In cold weather, it would be possible not to remove the “shelter”, but in our country this is simply impossible due to the strong winds. Gusts of wind will tear everything off and scatter it all over the garden, and there is no point in securing the protection very tightly.
Therefore, in the morning I always remove the canvas from the beds, collect it in a compact bundle (I don’t twist it), place it on the edge of the bed and press it down from the wind with metal tubes, which in due course will serve as pegs for tall tomatoes.
Based on experience, I can assure you that even a single layer of protection is usually sufficient. Of course, in especially severe cases, some flowers are damaged (they then turn black), but these are only isolated cases.
I have seen my neighbors’ unprotected strawberry plantation damaged by frost. The sight is very sad. Excellent, strong, large, healthy flowers - and all, as one, with pitch-black cores! There won't be any berries on them anymore! And for sure, many more buds are affected, from which later, even if they grow, they will only be small and ugly berries! How much work was wasted in vain!
Therefore, I try not to take risks and cover all my beds when there is the slightest threat of frost. The signal for the beginning of the time, when it is time to start covering the strawberries, is the appearance of the very first rudiments of flower buds on the bushes.
|
Severe frosts without snow last fall, a winter with little snow and an early but cold spring added to the worries of gardeners. How are the strawberries, are they frozen? And is there anything that can be done to protect the strawberry beds from frost in the future and increase the yield? And most importantly, how can you take less care of your strawberry plantings?
It is no secret that many gardeners have stopped growing large-fruited garden strawberries (an incorrect but firmly rooted name is strawberries) due to the fact that they require constant care and labor. But we invented this work ourselves! Strawberry (as I will continue to call it) came to us from the forest, and therefore it should be given freedom of action. Let it grow like in a forest. Give up unnecessary work and enjoy life! I’ll tell you how to plant strawberries so that you hardly need to care for them, and what you still have to do.
Strawberries: planting and growing
In my North-West, I plant strawberries in early June, and not at all in August-September, as is generally accepted. A year earlier, I stuck a stick into marking the strongest and best-bearing mother bushes. When, after fruiting, these bushes begin to grow mustaches, I leave only 4 mustaches near each marked bush, distribute them evenly and leave only one rosette. I delete everything else. I leave these four rosettes to overwinter along with the mother plant.
At the end of summer, I prepare a new bed for strawberries and immediately sow it with white mustard to repel nematodes and wireworms and improve the health of the soil. When the frosts destroy the mustard in the fall, I will lightly dig it up with a Fokin flat cutter to a depth of no more than 5-7 cm, water it with Fitosporin and immediately cover it with light-proof material to prevent weeds from entering the bed.
At the beginning of June, when most of the work is completed, I cut off the rosettes from the mother bush and transplant them directly on a shovel into the holes prepared in the bed, having first removed the cover, made markings and holes in the center of the bed at a distance of 20 cm from each other. I add a third of a teaspoon of the dust fraction of the AVA fertilizer (or a tablespoon of ash) into each hole and pour in a liter of water.
Transplanting a rooted rosette with a lump of earth is called transshipment. With this planting, the sucking hairs are not damaged, and the plant, having moved to a new place, practically takes root immediately. Over the fall, the plants grew a good root system at the expense of the mother bush and formed a powerful above-ground part. In practice, you will not replant rosettes, but bushes, which will produce a small harvest of large berries that same summer.
To prevent weeds from occupying the empty side parts of the garden bed, I immediately plant temporary residents on both sides of the strawberries, for example, radishes (non-shooting varieties that can be sown all summer), lettuce, short varieties of peas, onions for greens, and bush dill seedlings. All this can be sown at the end of April, as soon as the coltsfoot blooms, leaving a place in the center of the bed for strawberries and covering it with newspapers. Plant marigolds - they will not allow nematodes into the garden bed. When you replant strawberries, you don’t have to remove the newspapers, but just make holes in them for holes.
As the strawberries begin to develop whiskers, distribute them evenly in all directions. By the end of the season, strawberries will practically take over the entire garden bed. Let it grow like this for three years. I don’t trim the tendrils or faded flower stalks, I don’t cut out old leaves, I don’t feed, I don’t water (except in very dry summers), I just harvest.
But there are two things that I definitely do: in early May, I water the plantings directly over the “head” with “Fitosporin” plus “Gummi” and spray the bushes with “spring cocktail”: 2 grains “ Healthy garden", 2 grains of "Ecoberin", 2-4 drops of "Zircon", 5-6 drops of "Fitoverma", 4 drops of "Uniflor-bud" - all for 1 liter of water. I repeat this spraying for the second time in early August. The weevil comes to an end, and so do the pathogens, and therefore all the leaves go away before winter free of pathogens.
Old leaves will protect the rhizome from frost and provide food as it gradually rots. A layer of old leaves will block the spores of the gray rot fungus living in the soil from accessing the berries. And no work! Just pick the berries.
3-4 years after cleaning harvest, cut off the entire above-ground part with a Fokin flat cutter, going 3-4 cm deep into the soil, leave everything right there in the garden bed to rot, water with “Fitosporin” plus “Gummi” and cover the remains with light-proof material. Next spring The bed can be used for other plantings; for the next bed for strawberries, prepare a new place.
Strawberries and frost
The origin of strawberries from hot countries explains their love for the sun and warmth and their evergreen foliage, which winters well only under a snow coat. In areas where there are often winter thaws followed by frosts without snow, strawberries may die if frosts reach 15 degrees, so in snowless winters they should be covered with spruce branches, which trap the initially fallen snow and retain heat.
Opened strawberry flowers and young ovaries die already at a temperature of 0.5 to 1 degree below zero (the core of the flower turns black). Therefore, if there is any threat of frost, it is better to cover the strawberry plantings from above directly along the bushes with double lutrasil. Or you need to install a tunnel cover made of film over the plantings from the very early spring until the end of frost.
The buds can withstand about two degrees of frost, flower buds— —12 degrees. Growth buds are more resilient and die after the temperature drops to -15 degrees. The rhizome dies already at 8 degrees below zero, while the crown remains alive at -12. That is, in strawberries, the death of the rhizome occurs during less severe frosts than the death of its evergreen leaves.
Strawberry leaf growth occurs in two waves. The first growth of leaves begins in early spring and lasts approximately 60-70 days, until fruiting (in the North-West all of May and June). After fruiting, these leaves turn red, become damaged and gradually die. It is recommended to remove them immediately after fruiting and even partially remove them during fruiting to improve light and air exchange.
The second regrowth of leaves begins immediately after fruiting. New leaves go away before winter and, if they are preserved until spring under the snow, the harvest will be good. If the leaves do not overwinter under snow or other cover, they usually die, which delays fruiting until new leaves grow.
Strawberries or strawberries?
Large-fruited garden strawberries originated from an accidental crossing of two types of strawberries. About 300 years ago, two types of strawberries were brought to Europe. Chilean, originally from South America, was planted in the Garden of Versailles in France next to Virginia strawberries from North America. The bees cross-pollinated the plants. From the received seeds, a large miracle berry unexpectedly grew. The most remarkable thing is that the large-fruited berries are fixed on genetic level and began to be passed on by inheritance.
This accidental hybrid became the ancestor of all further varieties of large-fruited garden strawberries. The plant came to Russia about a hundred years ago from England and was originally called “Victoria”, after the name of the imported variety. But then the name “strawberry” spread, although this is a completely different type of plant.
Strawberries grow in the forest in the same way as wild strawberries, but differ from the latter in that they have lighter colored leaves with a clear vein pattern. Its peduncle is strong and tall, so that the berries rise above the bush and do not fall on the soil when ripe. The berries are small, although larger than those of wild strawberries. They are never completely colored, but have a strong aroma.
The most important difference between strawberries and strawberries is that strawberries are a monoecious plant, and strawberries are dioecious, that is, they have female plants that produce berries, and male plants that bloom but do not produce berries. This sometimes baffles gardeners.
"Why abundant flowering does it end without berries or does some small thing ripen on some bushes?” - I am often asked a question. The answer is simple: you probably have strawberries growing, not garden strawberries, and some of the plants, especially the male ones, do not bear fruit.
But there may be another reason. The fact is that among the garden strawberry plants there may be weed varieties. This Zhmurka, which does not produce berries at all, Dubnyak, which does not even have flower stalks, Bakhmutka, which produces a small harvest of small, round, pinkish berries, and Suspension with dark red, small, elongated berries.
To get rid of them, two sort cleanings should be carried out on all beds. One should be done in the spring, when the non-flowering bushes of Zhmurka and Dubnyak are clearly visible among the flowering strawberry bushes, and the second should be done during the harvest of the first harvest of large berries. At this time, the small berries of Bakhmutka and Pendants are very noticeable. Bushes should be removed immediately and varietal plants planted in their place.
We will tell you how to protect garden strawberries from diseases and pests.
Comment on the article "Strawberries in spring and early summer: growing them like in the forest"
Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings Section: In the beds (Strawberries for the dacha). I offer mustaches of garden strawberries and earthen strawberries. It's time to process garden strawberries, and therefore I offer the surplus: Strawberries...
Strawberries in spring and early summer: we grow them like in the forest. To get rid of them, two sort cleanings should be carried out on all beds. One needs to be done in the spring, when I have strawberries among the blooming ones, which are purely decorative, for example.
I offer strawberry seedlings. Strawberries in spring and early summer: we grow them like in the forest. Last year I took strawberries from Lena, these are frigo, naturally thawed and started to grow. This year I want to try to grow Garland in a pot (already at the dacha...
Strawberries in spring and early summer: we grow them like in the forest. White mold on the ground. Girls, please tell me what this is and how to deal with it. First, I found it in one pot, in which I had recently planted a cutting, and then in another pot, in another room.
I don’t like strawberries, I can eat a few berries, but there’s no such thing as kilograms of them with pleasure. And I don’t like strawberry jam. But, there are other family members and there is a place and it’s somehow strange to have a dacha and not have strawberries there. There is some planted already and not...
Section: Flowers (how to grow fertica spring - summer). fertilizers Please teach me, a novice gardener, what to fertilize and when to fertilize Christmas trees, hydrangeas, roses, apple-cherry-plum trees, hosts, and other flowers (not yet Strawberries in spring and early summer: we grow them like in the forest.
The topic was created to discuss the article Strawberries in spring and early summer: growing them like in a forest. Large-fruited garden strawberries: growing without pruning.
Strawberries in spring and early summer: we grow them like in the forest. Transplanting a rooted rosette with a lump of earth is called transshipment. The most important difference between strawberries and strawberries is that strawberries are a monoecious plant, and this sometimes confuses gardeners.
Planting strawberries in spring. how to protect strawberries from frost. Growing garden strawberries. Strawberries or strawberries? Severe frosts without snow last fall, a winter with little snow and an early but cold spring added to the worries of gardeners.
Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries, harvest. I grew strawberries from seeds, although I bought the seeds at the store. She poured sand on top of the ground and left seeds on top of the sand.
Or shouldn’t you bother? Or maybe there’s something else you can plant in advance? (the plot is large - plant as much as you like). Plant in early spring, there will definitely be rain in the spring. There is no point in planting flowers. they need water. Strawberries in spring and early summer: we grow them like in the forest.
Growing strawberries without trimming the mustache. Planting strawberries in spring. how to protect strawberries from frost. Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting Growing strawberries (the correct name is large-fruited garden strawberries) on...
Strawberries in spring and early summer: we grow them like in the forest. As the strawberries begin to develop whiskers, distribute them evenly in all directions. Strawberries grow in the forest in the same way as wild strawberries, but differ from the latter in that they have a lighter...
I offer strawberry and wild strawberry seedlings. How to plant strawberries correctly. Planting strawberries in spring. how to protect strawberries from frost. Growing garden strawberries.
Strawberries in spring and early summer: we grow them like in the forest. The plant came to Russia about a hundred years ago from England and was originally called “Victoria”, after the name of the imported variety. How to feed strawberries? Planting strawberries in spring. how to protect strawberries from...
Strawberries. On the beds. Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. I'm new to gardening. I want to plant 2 beds with strawberries and wild strawberries at my dacha :), my child is asking for them. Tell me when it should be planted and where I can buy Seeds of small-fruited remontant garden strawberries, where can I buy them?
How to renew strawberries? We want to completely renew strawberries. We have a lot of bushes, but the berries are small and sour. We want to redevelop the area a little and fertilize the strawberry beds well. What should I do? Where to put the old bushes, of which there is a sea.
Planting strawberries. On the beds. Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Get rich in any garden center, I prefer Timiryazevo. this year maybe, depending on the seedlings. Last year my Queen Elizabeth immediately bore fruit, this year Gigantella stands with flowers...
Strawberry. How to plant strawberries correctly. Let's talk about strawberries (strawberries). Well, is Vim Xim's latest torture the best of the late ones? or is it better Maxim? Recommendations for those who want to grow a rich harvest of strawberries. Strawberries: how to grow from seeds?
It grows well, but there are a lot of problems to solve when growing it. The fact is that the climate in Siberia is complex, in particular, despite the May periods of warming up to 25 degrees or more, often the weather then changes sharply, and a cold snap comes, which is accompanied night frosts. The most severe spring frost was recorded by me several years ago, when at the beginning of the third ten days of May it got so cold at night that by the morning the temperature dropped as much as minus 9 degrees!
Knowing about all these tricks of our weather, the first thing I do is try my best delay strawberry development early spring. I don’t rake away the mulch from the pine needles that protected the strawberries in the winter, I don’t loosen it, I don’t water it, i.e. In general, I try not to touch it until mid-May, until the strawberries, despite all these tricks of mine, begin to actively grow.
But as soon as this process has actively begun, I take out the previously prepared covering material from the pantry and lay it in advance in full readiness next to each strawberry bed.
Now cover my entire small strawberry plantation from 250 bushes won't be any problem. In the evening, when there is a clear threat of overnight frost, I simply straighten the strips of covering fabric and cover the beds with them directly from above. When everything is at hand, this whole procedure takes 15-20 minutes. Fortunately, in our area, despite the strongest spring winds, as a rule, in the evening the violent weather stops, and you can even shelter alone.
In such cases, you have to either stay overnight at the dacha, or come early the next morning to free the covered strawberry beds from protection. In cold weather, it would be possible not to remove the “shelter”, but in our country this is simply impossible due to the strong winds. Gusts of wind will tear everything off and scatter it all over the garden, and there is no point in securing the protection very tightly.
Therefore, in the morning I always remove the canvas from the beds, collect it in a compact bundle (I don’t twist it), place it on the edge of the bed and press it down from the wind with metal tubes, which in due course will serve as pegs for tall tomatoes.
Based on experience, I can assure you that even a single layer of protection is usually sufficient. Of course, in especially severe cases, some flowers are damaged (they then turn black), but these are only isolated cases.
I have seen my neighbors’ unprotected strawberry plantation damaged by frost. The sight is very sad. Excellent, strong, large, healthy flowers - and all, as one, with pitch-black cores! There won't be any berries on them anymore! And for sure, many more buds are affected, from which later, even if they grow, they will only be small and ugly berries! How much work was wasted in vain!
Therefore, I try not to take risks and cover all my beds when there is the slightest threat of frost. The signal for the beginning of the time, when it is time to start covering the strawberries, is the appearance of the very first rudiments of flower buds on the bushes.
|
|
Every spring, gardeners face frosts. At the beginning of spring, only the tips of the plants' leaves freeze, which does not affect them much. Strawberries usually straighten well after this. Especially if you were chosen frost-resistant variety. But if frosts occur in the second half of May or early June, they can cause significant damage to plants. It is precisely such frosts that can cause low yield in the future.
What frosts
withstands strawberries in spring
Even small frosts - only 3-5 degrees below zero, lasting several hours in the early morning, can be destructive for early harvest strawberries Spring frosts have different effects on the degree of damage to strawberry plantings, it all depends on the phase of flower development and on the structure of the peduncle. Besides, different varieties strawberries are damaged by frost in varying degrees. Strawberry flowers and ovaries damaged by frost produce fruits with damaged surface cells. The fruits become covered with cork tissue with cracks and become unsuitable for consumption. At a temperature of minus 8°C, strawberry leaves are partially damaged, but the root system and heart will not be affected by such frost. But at a temperature of minus 11 degrees or more, the heart freezes and root system, strawberry leaves freeze completely. The degree of frost damage to strawberries can be determined by examining the plants. Cold-damaged tissues become brown or brown in color. Strawberries damaged by frost require special care. It is necessary to fertilize the plantings mineral fertilizers. Top dressing should contain 35-45 kg/ha of nitrogen, the same amount of phosphorus and potassium. Strawberry bushes that show severe damage to the cambium and rhizome cells are best replaced with new ones.
How to protect strawberries
from frost
You can protect strawberry plantings from frost by covering them with pine needles, sawdust, peat or dry manure. Insulation with film is another effective method. But it’s not very practical: you need to buy a wide, thick film, cover the strawberries in the evening, and remove them in the morning. THIS article lists activities that will also help protect plants from frost.
One of the most modern, practical, convenient and effective ways Protecting strawberries from frost is covering them with agrofibre. Agrofibre sheets must be purchased white. Their width should be approximately one and a half times the width of the strawberry bed. The beds are covered by laying material on top of the bushes. Agrofibre is strengthened along the edges of the beds against the wind. Strawberries can be covered already in early April, and removed when the May frosts pass. The advantages of this material are that it is lightweight, can be used for several years and does not interfere with pollination of flowers.
