Do-it-yourself plywood workbench. Workbench with your own hands. Drawings and step by step instructions. From wood and metal. Small workbench for home DIY

This carpentry workbench has a solid frame, a solid work surface and plenty of storage space. convenient storage tools and fixtures. You will make the main structure with your own hands in two days, and you will gradually add various useful additions.

Tools for the job

To process solid wood and sheet materials, you will need a tool:

1. Hacksaw.
2. Electroplaner.
3. The saw is circular.
4. Grinder.
5. Drill and drills.
6. Clamps.
7. Screwdriver.
8. Pencil.
9. Square.
10. Roulette.
11. Brush.

Carpenter's workbench frame

Take a flat pine boards without large knots with a section of 50x150 mm. Dry the raw lumber: the lower the moisture content of the boards, the less likely the structure will warp. The carpentry workbench in question is designed for the comfortable work of a master 170–180 cm tall. To change the height of the structure, make the legs higher or lower.

Table 1 - list of frame parts

	Name	Finished dimensions, mm			Material	Quantity
	leg detail
	bottom spacer
	Top spacer
	cross prog
	Cover crossbar
	Longitudinal proleg
	Longitudinal side
	Bottom shelf
	Countertop spacer

All elements of the base of the carpentry workbench are paired, so mark two parts of the same length on a board 150 mm wide at once.

file it all wooden blanks along the length, with the exception of spacers: it is more convenient to cut short ones already planed, and long ones should be sawn off later “in place”.

Measure the width of the board, subtract the thickness of your circular saw blade, and divide the result in half. Set the calculated size on the measuring scale and make sure that the saw blade is perpendicular. Spread the boards exactly in the middle.

Sharpen the details and finish them sandpaper medium grit.

File the bottom spacers and sand the ends. After cleaning the surfaces of dust, apply glue to the small prong and to the end of the leg.

Squeeze the parts with a clamp, wipe off the squeezed out glue and drill holes with a countersink drill.

Fasten the blanks with screws 6.0x70. Prepare the rest of the legs of the carpentry workbench frame.

Bevel the bottom ends to reduce the chance of wood splitting when the workbench is moved.

Prepare for gluing the joints of the legs with the longitudinal prongs. Fasten the parts with screws, setting a right angle.

Screw all four legs into place.

Place the halves of the frame and the longitudinal sides on the floor, measure the length of the upper spacers.

File the parts and fix with glue and screws.

Assemble the top frame of the carpentry workbench on a flat surface. Fasten the bars with wood glue and 6.0x80 mm screws, drilling pilot holes for them.

Gather bottom harness workbench, I use clamps and auxiliary boards for convenience.

Put the top frame in place and align the entire structure. Connect the frame parts with screws.

Cut out the lower shelf from sheet material 16 mm thick and fix it on the bars

Workbench for carpentry work

Use sheets of MDF, chipboard or plywood 16–20 mm thick for the workbench cover. Glue the plates in two layers and get a countertop with a thickness of 32–40 mm.

Drawing and arrangement of the cover of the workbench: 1 - edge strips (birch, maple); 2 - working surface (solid fiberboard); 3 - carrier plate (chipboard, plywood or MDF).

For the tabletop you can take chipboard sheets left over from unwanted furniture. For example, the walls of a wardrobe are suitable. Take them as a basis and add small pieces so that the lid of the carpentry workbench turns out to be 670x1940 mm in size.

Place narrow slabs closer to the back wall and to the center of the workbench. Place large sheets in the top layer of the countertop. Glue the cut blanks.

Fasten the sheets with self-tapping screws, deepening them into the countersunk holes. Trim the edges by hand circular saw at a distance of 20 mm from the edge.

Align the tabletop with the frame and secure with screws.

Cut the slats for the edge trims. Saw off 45° bevels and cut the planks to length. Put a piece of fiberboard on top of the workbench, add a flat panel on top and fasten it all with clamps.

This makes it easier to attach the pads. Align the ends with the edges of the worktop and press the rail against the panel - the top plane will be flush with the workbench cover. While holding the plank with one hand, drill pilot holes and secure the parts with screws.

Move the fixture to the other side and install the remaining pads. Process the planks with a grinder.

Drill a hole in the corner of the board so that the fiberboard can be easily pushed out of the recess when replacing it.

Clean the surfaces of dust and cover the wooden parts of the frame with wood stain. Lay the fiberboard in the recess of the lid. If you are using pieces of material, then fix them with double sided tape. Install a carpenter's vise on the workbench.

Drawers for storing tools in the carpenter's table

When filling the space under the cover of the carpentry workbench, use the modular principle. Individual blocks are easier to make and more convenient to later change when space is needed for a new tool. There will be a certain overspending of material, but the mass of the workbench will increase and its stability will be enough to work with power tools.

Scheme of organization of storage places: 1 - full extension drawer; 2 - roomy plywood box; 3 - container made of chipboard; 4 - wide box; 5 - compartment for portable tool box; 6 - a place for cases and blanks.

Use drawers from old furniture

Choose boxes that are suitable in size from unnecessary desk or chest of drawers.

Sign wooden elements and carefully separate them. Clean the spikes and lugs from the glue.

Cut the planks to width, removing worn corners and cracked grooves. If the original bottom of the box is flimsy, prepare thicker plywood or fiberboard. Make new grooves on the circular saw.

Assemble the box "dry", adjust the parts if necessary. Clean the surfaces and glue the structure. Use mounting brackets to accurately assemble right angles.

When the glue dries, sand the corners and sides of the drawer, securing it for ease of use.

Prepare the guide rails and calculate the dimensions of the module.

Block calculation for three drawers

File the bottom, top and side panels. Fasten the guide rails with screws.

Assemble the panels into a module and test the movement of the boxes. Place the block inside the workbench, placing props under it.

Drill pilot holes, countersink and tighten self-tapping screws. Fasten the chipboard to the top rails and to the legs of the workbench.

Install the front pads on the drawers. Having marked the location of the case, grab it with one screw. Insert the box into place and adjust the position of the panel. Carefully remove the drawer and tighten the rest of the screws.

Fasten the remaining overlays - the module with wide drawers is ready.

Carpentry table compartment for portable drawer

The middle module is made to the full height of the workbench to increase the rigidity of the carpentry workbench. For the body, take Chipboard thickness 16 mm and cut out the two sides, bottom and lid.

Housing of the middle module: 1 - frame diagram; 2 - side wall; 3 - bottom and top panels.

Attach the guide rails to the sidewalls, assemble the frame with screws and install close to the right block.

Prepare the details for the drawer.

Drawings of the elements of the box: 1 - long wall; 2 - short wall; 3 - bottom; 4 - front pad; 5 - rail.

With a circular saw, select the grooves in the walls, which can be done with a regular disk. Set the cutting depth to 6 mm and the width to 8 mm. Run all four parts. Move the rip fence 2 mm and make a trial cut. Check the groove and adjust the stop if necessary. Run the rest of the blanks.

Assemble the module and install rails on the bottom to protect chipboard edges from chipping and providing a more “smooth” ride.

Fasten the front panel with screws and put the drawer in place.

How to make modules with convenient drawers

The arrangement of the housings of these modules is identical to the previous designs. The drawer placed on roller guides is manufactured taking into account the mounting clearance, so its width will be 26 mm less than the internal size of the case (for common rails with a thickness of 12 mm).

The device of the module and the details of the box: 1 - assembly diagram; 2 - back and front walls; 3 - front panel; 4 - bottom; 5 - side walls.

Before assembling the case, fasten restrictive wooden rails and metal rails to the sides.

Scheme of mounting guides on the walls of the case.

Fix the finished module under the cover of the workbench.

To install the rails on the drawer, unsnap the latches and pull out the small rails.

Fasten the pieces to the walls. Determine the required distance from the edge to the guide yourself based on the specific design and a gap of 10 mm between the wall of the box and the top panel of the frame.

Pull out the middle rails as far as they will go.

Insert both rails at the same time, holding the middle rails with your fingers. If the box "went" tight, take it out and try again.

Put the front cover in place.

How to make a drawer for a carpentry workbench from plywood

Saw the blanks of the box body from 10 mm plywood, and for the bottom take a sheet 5 mm thick.

Scheme of cutting parts for two plywood boxes: 1 - front panel; 2 - back insert; 3 - side wall; 4 - front insert.

Process the blanks with a grinder.

Make grooves for the plywood bottom in the side walls, back and front liner. Remove burrs with sandpaper.

Glue and screw the parts of the front and back walls with screws.

Apply glue to the joints and into the groove.

Assemble the structure using corners and clamps.

Fasten the parts with screws, drilling pilot holes.

Assemble the second plywood box with your own hands.

Install a panel on the back wall of the carpentry workbench to increase the rigidity of the structure and to accommodate hand tools.

Finish the drawers and the cut ends of the chipboard with a finishing compound.

Power up your DIY workbench and start filling containers with tools.

The garage is a multifunctional space. In it, you can install and repair cars, design and make various things and mechanisms with your own hands.

If a person likes to spend time in the garage, doing repairs, you need to properly equip your workplace. A workbench is a multifunctional desktop that can be used to process various materials, carry out metalwork, electromechanical and installation work. Also in the design of the workbench, you can think of shelves and drawers to store tools and other items.

Types of workbenches

Workbenches are made for processing metal (locksmith) and wood (carpentry). The designs differ in the material of the countertops. For locksmith models, the countertop must necessarily be metal, since working with metal involves the use of engine oil and other liquids that can leave marks on a wooden surface.

Also, when processing metal parts, effort is often required, the use of a sharp tool, so it is best to equip the workbench with a metal worktop.

Carpentry workbenches are designed to work with wood, so they are not as durable and functional as locksmith models.

Workbench design

If the design of the desktop in the garage is made by hand, then first of all you need to carefully consider every detail, figure out where the tools will be placed, what work will be carried out on the workbench. The model of the table in the garage depends on this.

Standard models are often equipped with drawers, which can be made of wood or metal. Also, the design of the table can be supplemented with shelves, a power shield for hanging tools, which will always be at hand. But most importantly, the workbench must be stable, durable and reliable.

Tool

Bulgarian with a circle for cutting metal and a grinding disc.

Welding machine and electrodes. Overalls and protective devices for welding work.

2. Screwdriver.

   Jigsaw for cutting plywood.

materials

Corner 50 mm by 50 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.4 m.

Square pipe 60 mm by 40 mm, thickness 2 mm, length 24 m.

Corner 40 mm by 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.75 m.

Steel strip 40 mm wide, 4 mm thick, 8 m long.

Steel sheet for countertop 2200 mm by 750 mm. Thickness 2 mm.

Steel sheet for making drawer holders. Thickness 2 mm.

Wooden boards for countertops. Thickness 50 mm.

Plywood for the manufacture of drawers and for the side and back walls of the table. Thickness 15mm

Guides for drawers.

Screws for assembling plywood boxes.

Self-tapping screws for metal.

Anchor bolts.

Paint for wood and metal.

The workbench, which will be made from these materials, has quite impressive dimensions: the length of the table is 220 cm, the width is 75 cm.

The first step in the manufacture of a workbench is cutting the available material into elements. profile pipe intended for the manufacture of the frame. The steel corner is designed to create stiffeners. It is cut into pieces and a power frame is formed from it. Also, a steel corner is needed for edging the tabletop on which the boards will be laid.

The steel strip is intended for the manufacture of guides on which the side panels will be attached. Also, this material will go to the brackets for attaching boxes and plywood.

Table drawers are made of plywood.

The second step is welding the power frame of the workbench. The elements of the countertop are welded first - 2 pipes 2200 mm long and 2 pipes 750 mm each. The frame must be welded so that another frame of corners can be welded on top of it, into which the tabletop boards will be laid. To reinforce the countertop, it is required to weld a few more after 40 cm steel pipes, which will act as stiffeners.

Then 4 side legs are welded along the edges of the workbench. Their length is 900 mm. Power jumpers are welded between the legs, strengthening the structure.

After the base frame is ready, you can start welding the structure for the boxes. To do this, square frames are formed from steel pipes, which are welded to the tabletop on both sides of the table. Frames are reinforced with longitudinal stiffeners.

The third step is to make a frame for the countertop. Two steel corners, 2200 mm long and two more corners 750 mm long, are needed to make the frame. The structure is welded so that wooden boards lie inside it.

The frame from the corner is laid on the frame of pipes and welded. It turns out a reinforced tabletop, 8 cm high with internal stiffeners.

The metal frame of the workbench is almost ready, it remains to weld the crate of the panel for attaching the tool. This requires one metal corner 2200 mm long and 4 corners having a length of 950 mm. Two elements are attached to the sides of the structure and two in the middle, for reinforcement. The toolbar is welded to the worktop.

The frame of the corners and pipes is ready. You can start strengthening the structure. Brackets are welded to the sidewalls of the table, which are cut from a steel strip. A total of 24 parts are needed. A hole is drilled in the middle of each bracket. Using these holes, the side and back walls of the plywood table will be attached to metal frame workbench.

The fourth stage is the manufacture of drawers for the table. Plywood is cut into blanks, which are twisted with screws. The number of drawers depends on what will be stored in the table. If the details are small, then 3 boxes can be built, if large - then 2. It all depends on personal preference.

Drawers can be arranged on two sides of the table, can be mounted on one half retractable structures, and on the second - the usual open shelves.

After the drawers are assembled, metal strips with holes need to be welded between the sides of the drawer compartments. To these holes inside skids for guide boxes will be attached.

The fifth stage is laying the boards in the tabletop frame. Boards with a thickness of 50 mm are cut into blanks of a certain length. If a long board is available, then you need three blanks 245 mm wide and 2190 mm long. If a long boards not available, then you can lay the blanks across the table. For this purpose, wood 205 mm wide is cut into 10 blanks 740 mm long.

Before laying the wood in the table frame, it must be treated with an antiseptic solution. This will protect the material from rotting and damage by beetles.

Then, without fail, it is required to paint the entire metal structure workbench. This will protect the metal from corrosion. It is best to use a weatherproof and anti-corrosive coating option. Be especially careful when painting welding seams. Drops of metal and irregularities are recommended to be thoroughly cleaned before painting. This can be done using an angle grinder with a metal grinding disc.

After the structure is dry, you can start laying the boards on the countertop. They should not be driven too tightly into the frame. This is due to the fact that the tree tends to expand and shrink with a change in temperature and humidity. It is better to leave a small gap of a few millimeters between the boards. The surface of the wood needs to be sanded, this will make it easier to lay the metal sheet on top of the wood. Boards around the entire perimeter of the table are screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

The sixth stage is the fastening of the upper steel sheet. It can be welded to the countertop, but there is wood inside the structure, which can ignite during the welding process. Therefore, it is best to attach the steel sheet with hidden self-tapping screws to the wooden planks. Previously, the metal must be painted on both sides with a rust converter. This covering material looks like a transparent paintwork, easily restored and reliably protects the metal from rust. You can also paint the metal countertop with the same paint that covered the frame. It will be beautiful, but over time, the paint may scratch and the table will not look too new.

The last step is to install the boxes on the rails and fasten the plywood to the side walls, shelves and power shield in front of the table. This work can be called finishing workbench. After work with plywood is over, it must be coated with a composition that will protect the material from environmental influences. Also, do not forget about the design of the power shield for tools. You can attach special hooks or screws to it, to which the necessary things will be hung.

In order to make it convenient to work at the workbench, you can attach a special lamp with a bending stand to the power shield. In this case, you can optionally direct the flow of light to the right place.

Video - The process of making a workbench

Installing a vice on a locksmith's workbench

The vise is an indispensable attribute locksmith workbench. It is not recommended to attach a clamping tool weighing several tens of kilograms to the tabletop itself. It is best to place a metal gasket between the metal of the table and the tool, 1 cm thick. It is required to drill holes for the anchor bolts in the gasket. Then, in the same places, drill holes in the countertop of the same size. The whole structure is fastened with anchor bolts.

Safety requirements for a homemade workbench design

1. If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garage is not too large, then you can make a smaller table for plumbing work with your own hands. But, it is worth knowing that the whole structure must be stable, not sway or budge with little effort.
2. The workplace should be organized in such a way that nothing interferes with a person. When working with a vise, all unnecessary tools should be removed from the countertop.
3. The corners and protruding parts of the table should not be too sharp and have cutting edges.
4. After repair work behind the workbench, you need to clean the workplace from metal chips, oil drops and other materials.
5. If a homemade workbench is made correctly, then it can easily withstand a load of 200 kg.

Shield plywood

Video - Do-it-yourself workbench in the garage

Each House master knows that a well-equipped workshop with a stable and reliable carpenter's workbench, equipped with all kinds of tools for processing parts, is half the success in the manufacture of wood products. Of course, the desktop can be bought in the distribution network. However, we recommend making it yourself. Firstly, it will allow you to get a product of the right size and functionality. Secondly, when building a workbench optional equipment can be placed in the most rational way. Thirdly, the cost of the machine will be much lower than the factory version, which will allow you to buy a quality tool with the money saved. If these arguments gave you a reason to think about making a desktop with your own hands, then our drawings, instructions and recommendations will help you build a solid, reliable and functional carpentry workbench.

Purpose and design of a typical carpentry workbench

Sturdy and reliable carpentry workbench will provide convenience and comfort during long work with wooden parts

The carpenter's workbench, in fact, is a massive, reliable table for processing wooden products any size. The main requirements for this type of equipment are strength and stability. In addition, the machine must be equipped with at least a minimum set of fixtures for securing and holding workpieces. The dimensions of the working table are selected depending on the size and weight of the parts to be processed, as well as free space in the workshop or garage. By the way, there are designs of compact workbenches that can be placed even on the balcony.

The design of a carpentry workbench with a type-setting worktop. In the figure: 1 - base or bench; 2 - workbench; 3 - miter box; 4 - coupler; 5 - vice; 6 - support beam

Since the work that is carried out on the carpentry machine is carried out with the help of manual and electric tools, the workbench is made of massive timber and thick boards. By the way, the work surface, or in another way the workbench, is assembled only from hardwood. In the manufacture of countertops, dry oak, beech or hornbeam boards with a thickness of at least 60 mm are used. If the countertop is made of pine, alder or linden, then its surface will wear out quickly and will require periodic updating. Often, a bench cover is assembled from several narrow and thick boards, placing them on edge.

A series of holes made on working surface table, allows you to install stop elements for the convenience of processing long wooden workpieces.

In order to facilitate the design support legs the desktop, on the contrary, is made of soft wood. Between themselves, the vertical supports are connected by a longitudinally installed beam to increase the stability of the product.

Typical scheme of a carpentry workbench

A vise is hung on the front and side of the workbench special design for fixing workpieces. In addition, on overall machines, separate clamping devices for large and small parts are mounted. Optimal location the location of the carpentry vice is left-hand side front apron and the near part of the right sidewall.

In the underlay - the space between the supports, under the tabletop, they often equip comfortable shelves and drawers for storing tools and accessories.

For convenience, a recess is made in the back of the countertop for fittings and small parts. Often, a recess that is difficult to manufacture is replaced with a frame knocked down from wooden slats.

Types and design

All home-made desktops for carpentry can be divided into three types:

1. Mobile workbenches have a weight of up to 30 kg, dimensions of less than 1 m in length and up to 70 cm in width, are equipped with one vice and are made partly from metal elements. Such machines are designed to work with small, light workpieces or minor repairs of wooden products. A mobile desktop is an excellent option when there is not enough space and can be installed in any room in the country house or on the balcony. Often, mobile workbenches have a folding design.

   Homemade carpentry workbench mobile design

   
   

   If there is no need for a stationary, professional workbench, then for minor repairs or the manufacture of small parts, you can convert an old desk.

2. The stationary carpentry workbench is made with reference to certain place and is not intended to be moved during operation. Equipment of this type allows you to process parts of any size and weight.

   The stationary carpenter's workbench is a reliable, stable structure, equipped in accordance with the preferences of the owner and the features of the room.

3. Composite type machine - the most difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, this design, due to its variability, is the most practical and functional structure. If necessary, individual parts of the workbench can be easily replaced, since the elements of the desktop are bolted together.

   The composite workbench is a structure that can be adjusted to any requirement.

Project and drawings

When developing the design of a carpentry workbench the most important criteria are height, configuration and equipment. In addition, it is necessary to take into account who will operate the desktop - left-handed or right-handed.

Considering that it will take a long time to work at a carpentry workbench, the closest attention should be paid to the height of the future structure. For people of average height, experts recommend making a table no higher than 90 cm.

Drawing of a carpentry workbench

When determining the distance from the floor to the countertop, it is best to focus not on the average parameters, but on the features of your own anatomy. It is optimal if the upper cut of the legs is on the same level with the hands. If you calculate this parameter taking into account the thickness of the countertop, then you can work at such a workbench tirelessly for several hours.

The cover of the machine can be made of boards, solid wood or plywood and is a type-setting structure. It is not recommended to use chipboard or OSB for these purposes. Professional carpenters have long identified optimal size countertops - maximum 2 m long and 0.7 m wide. On such a workbench, with the same convenience, you can make a team wooden door, and a small window.

When designing a structure, do not forget about strength load-bearing frame. For supporting structural elements, a bar with a section of at least 100x100 mm is used. As longitudinal and transverse reinforcing elements, it is allowed to use rails and beams with a smaller section - from 50 - 60 mm or more. The joints of the parts are mounted on spikes or dowels, furniture corners and other fittings are used for strength, and all connections are made using bolts and self-tapping screws. Nails will not be able to provide the required stability and fundamental nature of the structure.

Joiner's workbench. View from above

Often the frame, or otherwise the frame of the workbench, is made of metal. Despite the fact that this material makes it possible to create a height-adjustable structure with less labor, professional carpenters prefer all-wood structures.

Let's take a look at the project carpenter's table¸ made of plywood, or rather from two plywood sheets glued together with a thickness of 1.8 mm. The dimensions of the lid are 150x60 cm. The edges of the tabletop are reinforced with plywood strips, which increases its thickness to 72 mm. By the way, the presented dimensions are not a dogma and can be adjusted, if necessary, in accordance with the needs and characteristics of a particular room used as a workshop.

Necessary tools and materials

Plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is a rather expensive material (the price of one sheet measuring 1.5x1.5 m is more than 700 rubles, excluding shipping costs). Our project will require at least two sheets of this material. You can save a little if you buy one, larger sheet with dimensions of 2500x1250 mm. Additionally, if possible, try to purchase scraps of plywood with a width of at least 300 mm, which will be used to reinforce the workbench cover around the perimeter.

Additionally, for the construction of a carpentry machine, you will need:

• wooden beam with a section of at least 100x100 mm - for supports;
• timber or slats with a cross section of at least 60x60 mm - for frame reinforcement elements;
  When choosing lumber for a carpentry workbench, carefully inspect the workpieces for knots and cracks. Remember that these parts will work under continuous load;
• electric drill with a set of conventional and feather drills;
• pieces of boards with a length of at least 1.5 m for laying under the clamps;
• wood glue. A good result can be obtained by using the domestic adhesive "Moment Joiner";
• furniture bolts with nuts and self-tapping screws;
• Circular Saw;
• joiner's square;
• long rule (at least 2 m);
• construction level;
• a notched trowel with a size of cut sectors of at least 3 mm;
• carpentry clamps.

Clamps required for compressing plywood sheets during gluing must be strong and reliable. If you are a non-professional carpenter and do not have quality tool, then you can get by with inexpensive Chinese-made clamping devices. Of course, the number of such devices should be doubled.

Manufacturing instructions

1. To make a countertop, cut two blanks with a circular saw. If you managed to purchase a plywood sheet maximum length, then it is necessary to saw off one workpiece with a length of 1520 mm from it. By cutting it in half, you will get two parts 1520x610 mm. After that, as a rule, check the concave and convex sides of each sheet. This will make it possible to correctly orient the sheets when gluing.

   High-quality gluing provides clamping of tabletop parts with clamps

   
   

   To properly glue the plywood sheets, they are folded, turning the convex sides to each other.

2. After laying one blank on three parallel-laid boards, apply wood glue to its surface. To do this, use straight and notched trowels. Remember that the work must be carried out very quickly, otherwise the composition will begin to set prematurely. The glue manufacturer Moment Stolyar recommends joining the parts no later than two minutes after the start of applying the composition. Therefore, if you are not sure about the speed of your work, use wood glue, which has no time limits. Of course, the strength of the connection will be slightly reduced, however, even the PVA furniture mix good quality provide an acceptable degree of bonding.

   To avoid damage to the workpiece, place under the clamps support boards

3. Having laid the second workpiece on top of the first, place support boards around the perimeter of the future table cover and begin to tighten the tabletop with clamps. At the same time, do not forget to control the flatness of the part using the rule. It will not work to tighten the center of the workpiece with clamps, so in this part you can install a load weighing at least 15 - 20 kg.
   

   It is possible to glue plywood sheets into a shield without clamps, if you can find a perfectly flat surface for laying them, as well as a load of sufficient mass.

4. After the glue dries, the clamps are removed and proceed to reinforce the side surfaces of the countertop. To do this, strips of plywood 15 cm wide are glued around the entire perimeter of the cover in two layers. When doing this work, be sure to make sure that the top layer completely covers the joints.

   Reinforcement of the side parts of the bench table with additional plywood strips

5. For trimming the side surfaces of the table, use circular saw. The parquet is carried out smoothly, slowly. It is convenient to use the same rule as a guide. The tabletop is given a size of 1500x600 mm in compliance with right angles, for which they use a joiner's square or a factory corner of a plywood sheet.
6. Workbench supports are made of timber with a section of 100x100 mm, connecting them with prolegs and drawers, for which lumber is used cross section not less than 60x60 mm. In our case, the height of the machine is 900 mm, however, you can adjust this size to suit your height.

   Making a carpentry workbench frame

7. The legs are assembled “in a spike” or using dowels, be sure to apply carpentry glue to the parts to be joined.
8. When assembling the upper and lower frame of the underlay, scrupulously maintain 90-degree angles between the parts. It will be easier to fulfill this requirement if, at the stage of preparing the parts, their edges are correctly trimmed. The width of the frame of our structure is 900 mm, and the height of the frame is 830 mm, taking into account the distance from the floor to the lower prong of 150 mm.

   Holes made in the parts with a pen drill will help to hide the bolt heads and washers.

If desired, a shelf can be built in the underlay. To do this, a plywood panel is cut out to the size of the lower space, in the corners of which rectangular cutouts are made for the legs of the machine.

Installation of additional equipment

A real carpentry workbench cannot be imagined without fixtures designed to fasten workpieces. For this purpose, a vise is attached to the finished tabletop in such a way that their jaws are flush with the surface of the lid. To properly install the fixture on the workbench, a vice is applied to the machine and the attachment points are marked. After that, holes with a diameter of 12 mm are drilled and the tool is installed on the machine using a bolted connection with an M12 thread. When performing this operation, be sure to mill the holes for the washers and bolt heads.

View finished product with fixed vise

If it is not possible to install a stationary vice, you can do without them by using bench clamps or clamps.

In addition to the vise, stops are provided on the desktop. To do this, a series of holes are drilled in the countertop. Parts made of wood are considered the best stops, since metal fixtures can damage the workpiece. Nests for supporting elements are located at a distance equal to half the stroke of the vise. This will allow you to securely fix the workpiece of any size.

Video: DIY carpentry workbench

Building a carpentry workbench is a rather difficult task. However, a self-assembled machine will allow you to work in a convenient, comfortable environment. This requires not only to think over the ergonomics of the workspace and properly prepare the construction project, but also to perform the work in full accordance with the recommendations of professional carpenters. Only then the resulting product will be durable and stable, delighting its owner for many years of service.

The general principle of the development of material processing technology from prehistoric times to the present day is how to make details on inaccurate equipment for more accuracy. And it all started with a workbench, its prototypes are found during excavations of Stone Age settlements. It is quite possible to build a workbench, and a full-fledged one, with your own hands, and this will not only save a significant amount, but also simplify, facilitate work and improve its result.

Three mistakes

Amateurs, sometimes, judging by their designs, very experienced, knowledgeable and diligent, sometimes make workbenches for themselves, on which, figuratively speaking, a tank can be smashed with a sledgehammer. They take a lot of time and labor, and hardly less money than a good branded amateur workbench. Repetition in the design for own use of industrial prototypes designed for intensive work in 3 shifts and a static load of more than a ton, with a service life of 20 years is one of the common mistakes development of workbenches of their own design.

The second is the neglect of vibrations. Not a clearly felt “play” or “recoil”, but a small tremor that significantly complicates the work and reduces its quality. Vibrations are especially strong in workbenches on a metal bed.

Third - repeat carpentry or locksmith workbenches; perhaps with some tweaks to your liking. Meanwhile designs of workbenches for home/amateur work different nature a lot. There are workbenches that are more or less specialized or, on the contrary, universal, temporary from improvised materials, etc.

In this article we will figure out how to make a workbench taking into account these errors, firstly, simpler and cheaper according to the range of needs and / or hobbies of the craftsman. Second, how to make a workbench general purpose or universal for special conditions of use - in a cramped garage, for carpentry at a construction site from improvised trash, home for fine precision work, for children.

About universal workbenches

Among branded products, sometimes very expensive, you can find "universal" workbenches in the form of a carpenter's workbench with a lid without a tray, a complete bench vise on a wooden cushion, and a clamp for installing them, like the one in the photo:

“Universal” prefabricated workbench

This is the wrong decision, not only because wooden table top from carpentry spoils. The main thing that is bad here is the technological fluids used in metal processing - oil, kerosene, etc. The wood impregnated with them becomes much more combustible. Self-ignition is also possible; remember, it is strictly forbidden to accumulate oiled rags in production. The approach to designing the countertop (board, cover) of a universal workbench needs a different one based on what kind of work it is mainly used for - thin or rough, see below.

work bench

In the West, amateur / home workbenches with a type-setting worktop framed by a side are widespread. Drawings of such a "working bench" are given in fig. Under the locksmith, the lid is covered with a sheet of steel 1.5-2 mm thick and a vice is placed on the pillow.

The workbench dampens vibrations well; You can make it from pine or spruce. But the design is complicated, it is inconvenient to work with lengthy materials and furniture on such a workbench. Therefore, we will first look at how to make the most common carpentry workbench, then garage and metalwork. Next, we will try to combine them into a universal workbench and see what we can come up with on this basis for special needs.

The composition of the workbench

The workbench of "our" type (conditionally, since it is impossible to establish its origin exactly) consists of:

• Underwork (in carpentry workbenches), or bed (in metalwork), ensuring the stability of the entire unit and the ergonomics of the workplace.
• Covers, box-shaped or in the form of a tray, giving the work area the necessary rigidity.
• Shelves; possibly with a tray, nests, and stops on which work operations are performed.
• The apron on which the tool is hung. The apron is not a mandatory accessory of the workbench, it can hang on the wall or be replaced by a pedestal, rack, etc.

Note: workbench height approx. 900 mm. The length and width are selected according to the place of installation and the type of work within 1200-2500 and 350-1000 mm, respectively.

A lid with a shelf is most often made at the same time, one-piece, and is simply called a lid, benchtop or table top. To dampen vibrations, the shelf is always made on the basis (bed, substrate) of wood. In the locksmith's workbench, the bed is covered steel sheet from 2 mm thick and can be made of softwood. Its overall strength is sufficient, and the steel tire protects the tree from local damage and ingress of technical fluids. In a carpenter's workbench, a bed made of high-quality (without knots, strands, and other defects) solid small-layer wood (oak, beech, hornbeam, elm, walnut) serves at the same time as a shelf; -layer construction, see below.

The traditional construction of the bench, on the contrary, is collapsible from the same wood as the joiner's shelf. This comes from the master covens of the past, who transported their equipment from customer to customer on a cart. It is from the bed / underbench that you should start developing your workbench no worse, but simpler than traditional ones.

Bed: metal or wood?

A stationary wooden workbench has advantages over that on a steel frame, not only in lower cost and labor intensity. Wood, firstly, is not plastic. Workbench on wooden base can be broken, but if the wood is used seasoned and impregnated, it will never sag. Secondly, the tree perfectly dampens vibrations. The foundations of your buildings are not reinforced vibration-absorbing ones, like workshops at a factory, are they? And the overall strength and stability of the frame home workbench coniferous commercial wood of ordinary quality will quite provide.

The design of the wooden frame of the workbench made of boards 120x40 is shown on the left in fig. Permissible static load - 150 kgf; dynamic vertically down for 1 s - 600 kgf. Corner posts (legs) are assembled on self-tapping screws 6x70 in a zigzag (snake) with an indent from the edge of 30 mm and a step of 100-120 mm. Double-sided fastening; snakes on both sides of the package are mirrored. Intermediate support beams are fastened with steel corners on self-tapping screws; edge - with pairs of self-tapping screws at the spikes of the racks and, outside, with corners.

If a beam of 150x50 or (180…200)x60 is available, the design can be simplified, as shown in the center in fig. The bearing capacity will increase to 200/750 kgf. And from a bar 150x150, 150x75 and (180 ... 200) x60, you can build a frame that can carry 450 kgf in statics and 1200 in dynamics, on the right in Fig.

Note: any of these beds is suitable for both carpentry and locksmith workbenches. A box-shaped cover is placed on it under the carpentry (see below), and under the locksmith a tray from a 60x60x4 corner with welded 4 mm strips above the intermediate beams. A wooden pillow is placed in the tray and covered with steel, also see below.

If there is no welding

Solid wood workbench, no need for welding work for its manufacture, you can do according to the scheme on the next. rice. The “chip” here is in the tabletop, glued from a 75x50 bar and fastened with ties. If the beam is oak, then the permissible load is 400/1300 kgf. Corner posts - timber 150x150; the rest is timber 150x75.

Metal

It happens the other way around: metal is more accessible than wood, and there is welding. Then the workbench table for a load of 100/300 kgf can be assembled according to the drawing on the left in fig. Materials - corner 35x35x3 and 20x20x2. Drawers are galvanized. The disadvantage is that it is impossible to make an opening at the bottom for the legs, the structure will lose its ability to carry a dynamic load.

Under a load of 200/600, a more convenient metal workbench according to the scheme at the top right from a professional pipe 50x50 (corner posts), 30x30 (other vertical details) and a corner 30x30x3. The plank cushion of both workbenches is laid only across (bottom right) from tongue-and-groove boards (120 ... 150) x40.

Shelf - steel 2 mm. The shelf is attached to the pillow with 4x (30 ... 35) self-tapping screws, a pair from each edge of each board, and along the extreme boards - with a step of (60 ... 70) mm. Only in this design, the workbench will show the specified load-bearing capacity.

These workbenches are already universal: under the carpentry, the lid is turned over with the wooden side up or adapted, as described below. The locksmith's vise is mounted on a wooden cushion, but is not fastened with a clamp. A collet anchor under the M10-M14 bolt is driven into the vice cushion from below, and a through hole is drilled under it in the cover. A washer from 60x2 is placed under the bolt head. This solution is convenient because it is possible to use inexpensive non-rotating vise.

For carpentry

The lid of the carpentry workbench, in contrast to the metalwork, is tightly attached to the workbench and is box-shaped, for general rigidity. The best option fastenings for a non-separable workbench - steel corners and self-tapping screws. Podverstache can also be a steel bed from those described above.

How a traditional carpentry workbench is arranged is shown in pos. And rice; accessories to it in pos. B. The workbench (in this case, this is a separate device) is used to work with a long length. The emphasis in its groove is made from a wedged trimming of the board, see below. It is advisable to drill a longitudinal row of holes in the board and fasten it into the sockets with sunken cone-head bolts. The traditional construction of a carpentry underbench is shown in pos. G, but - see above.

The cover of the carpentry workbench can be made cheaper by making a 2-layer, pos. B. Then quality boards solid wood only needed on the shelf. They lay it down, laying the boards with “peas” of annual layers alternately up and down, in order to avoid warping. The flooring of the shelf is first rallied with PVA glue or carpentry, tightly squeezing with a clamp or wrapping it with a cord; put on a pillow on the same glue. The skirt of the lid is assembled separately with glue and through spikes (insert at pos. B) and is attached to the pillow-shelf package with self-tapping screws.

Vice for carpentry

All-wood carpentry vices, front and chair, are now almost completely replaced by a vice with a metal screw clamp, pos. D; their device is shown in pos. E. Some remarks are needed here.

First, you need to put 2-3 steel washers under the head of the clamping screw, otherwise it will quickly eat through the pillow (4x4x1 cm piece of wood). Second - if the nut is not custom-made and not purchased shaped, then get at least for a while a set of taps for the thread used. In this case, do not try to use too thick a screw for evenness and smoothness of the clamp; M12-M16 is enough.

The nut of a home-made clamping pair is welded onto a base with a diameter of 60 mm or more, square, from 70x70 mm. It is not necessary to sink it into the clamp pad, so it is less likely that the nut will be torn off when clamping. But the thread will ugly lead away from welding, you can’t drive it away with a bolt. The thread of the welded nut will need to be tapped according to the full scheme, as when cutting: the first tap - the second - the third (if included in the kit).

Note: the nut welded on the base must be allowed to rest for at least 2 hours before the thread passes, so that the residual deformations “subside”.

Vice and carpentry for a locksmith

The vise on the locksmith's workbench is installed in the corner (see the inset in the figure), so that as much as possible of the dynamic loads during metal processing falls vertically on the corner post. The location of the cross beams and intermediate vertical racks of a workbench with a stationary vice is desirable to be made a little asymmetrical, placing them at smaller intervals towards the corner with a vice. The installation of the vice is also carried out starting from the corner:

• A collet anchor is driven into the wooden corner post under the mounting bolt, and a high nut or threaded sleeve is welded into the metal post (attachment point 1 at the bottom left in the figure);
• If the fastener is welded, thread with taps, as in a homemade carpenter's vice nut, see above;
• Put a vice temporarily on 1 bolt and mark holes for fixing points 2, 3 and 4 in place;
• The vise is removed and through holes 2, 3 and 4 are drilled;
• Put a vise on the bolts 1, 2 and 3;
• For mounting on bolt 4, put under the cover (tabletop) a strut U from wooden beam from 60x60 or professional pipes from 40x40. It is not necessary to fix the jib, but it should rest from under the bottom against the upper frame (strap) of the bed, but not against the tabletop!
• Attach the vise finally to the bolt 4.

Note: stationary power tools are also fixed in the same way, for example. emery.

Under the carpentry

A locksmith's workbench can also be adapted for carpentry work if you drill 2-4 pairs of holes in the tabletop for fixing the carpentry stop (on the right and in the center in the figure). In this case, round bosses are screwed to the bottom surface of the stop with self-tapping screws; plugs fit well plastic bottles, they withstand tight landings many times.

Garage workbench

A workbench in the garage cannot be made optimal in terms of ergonomics of the width of the workplace - the dimensions of a standard box 4x7 m with a car standing in it do not allow. For a long time already, through trial and error, the width of the garage workbench was determined at 510 mm: it is quite convenient to turn between it and the hood, and you can more or less work. A narrow workbench under a heavy load (for example, a motor taken out for bulkhead) is unstable, so it is made attached to the wall. Often - angular, this increases stability, but any wall-mounted workbench "responds" stronger than a workbench-table of the same design

The scheme of the device of one section of the garage workbench is given in fig. In this design, an ingenious method of additional damping of vibrations is used: cells of the frames of the cover and the lower shelf of the edge farthest from the corner different sizes. The accuracy of the installation of the crossbars is +/- 1 cm. For the same purpose, the cover and the lower shelf are made of chipboard 32 mm thick and covered with linoleum instead of steel. For garage work, its durability is sufficient; replaced without difficulty.

Fastening to the walls - self-tapping screws from 8 mm or bolts from M8 with a pitch of 250-350 mm. Deepening into a stone wall 70-80 mm; in wooden 120-130 mm. Propylene dowels are placed under the screws in the stone wall; for bolts - collet anchors.

More for the garage

Another version of the garage workbench is already on the wall, and on the wall, on the left in fig. It can only be mounted on stone walls. Bench board folding 2-layer; each layer of plywood 10-12mm. Opening under the machine with a stepped inner edge. In this case, a “milling cutter” means a mini-drilling machine with a movable rotary table and a workpiece clamp. The design is convenient in that the chips fall immediately onto the floor.

If your car is something like a Daewoo or Chery with a 3-cylinder engine, and the garage is very small, then you can put a folding mini workbench with a lifting table top in it, on the right in the figure; he will fit in the house for fine workmanship(electronics, precision mechanics). The tabletop is suspended on a piano hinge, the legs are on card hinges. For folding, the legs are tucked under the tabletop (it would be useful to tie them with a leg), and the tabletop is lowered.

Note: for a cramped garage with an ordinary city car, a folding workbench-box may be optimal, see the video below.

Video: folding workbench box

Home station wagon

At home, they are engaged in smaller, but painstaking technical creativity: soldering, modeling, watchmaking, artistic sawing plywood, etc. For fine fine work, a universal workbench is suitable, the drawings of which and its accessories are given in fig. The resistance of the work surface and its vibration absorption in this case are not as important as evenness, smoothness and some adhesion (“stickiness” of parts), so the table top is covered with linoleum. Locksmith vices for this workbench need small, with screw clamping.

More about plywood

In fact, it is undesirable to work with metal “roughly” on plywood, because. she calls back well. If, however, the pillow of the board of the locksmith's workbench is nevertheless made of plywood, then a frame (frame) must also be glued to its bottom on the PVA, also made of plywood, see fig. Then it is desirable to cover the upper (working side) first with unlined linoleum, and then lay steel on it.

To the rising shift

Another case where making a workbench out of plywood is justified is a student's workbench for a child. Pedagogical considerations play a role here: let him learn to feel the material and not to beat for nothing, but to work carefully. For the same purpose, the masters of the past deliberately gave students a bad instrument.

Workbenches in the country

When country house or other light wooden structure is still being built, there is no time for bench wisdom, at least something is needed on which simple carpentry work can be done. For such a case, hastily you can put together a carpentry workbench for giving from improvised materials, on the left in fig. The design is remarkable in that it clearly and fully embodies the principle: we do good things with bad equipment.

For subsequent work on the arrangement of the dacha, a mini-workbench is useful, on the right in fig. With a minimum consumption of material and an extremely simple design, it is stable enough for ordinary carpentry work in all respects, because. the middle of the workbench is supported by a pair of struts. If you put them on bolts, the workbench will turn out to be collapsible and stand in the pantry from weekend to weekend. For disassembly, after releasing the struts, the spacer is removed with them, and the legs are tucked under the board. Finally, for a summer residence, inhabited permanently or all summer, with a master owner, by the way, you will have a more complex, but fully functional folding workbench, see the video below.