How to install a wall-hung toilet - installation technology. Wall-hung toilet with installation: how to choose, pros and cons, installation Install a wall-hung toilet

Hanging plumbing fixtures are gradually gaining popularity, especially among owners of small bathrooms. However, not everyone likes wall-hung toilets - outwardly they seem unstable and unreliable. This impression is deceptive, because it is carried out using an installation system that is hidden behind finishing material walls. Let's take a closer look at the advantages of hanging plumbing fixtures and read the instructions for installing them.

Advantages of wall-hung toilets

Selecting and purchasing a toilet with installation

The main condition for purchasing the installation is that it must match the model of the toilet you have chosen. Often, wall-hung toilets are equipped with an installation system initially; it is best to prefer this option.

Take measurements of the niche where the installation will be installed

The installation must match the size of the niche in which it will be placed.

There are two types of installations

Block – is attached to the wall using conventional anchor bolts, which are the main support of the entire structure.

Framework – is a frame on legs, thanks to which the height of the toilet is adjusted. The frame is attached in four places. An option is possible when all four fasteners are fixed on the wall - this installation method can only be used in the case of solid walls.

If the wall is not stable enough, choose an installation with two fastenings on the wall and two on the floor. The last two fasteners bear the main load.

Pay attention to the equipment included with the device. If the situation is favorable, you will receive the main part (blocks or frames), fasteners, flush keys, sound insulation, flush tank and adapter.

Useful. Read the DIY instructions in a separate article.

Stages of installing a toilet with installation

We mark the walls. We draw a line - the central axis of the future system. We calculate the distance between the installation and the wall, which will accommodate the sewerage and water supply. We mark the mounting points of the installation and the location of the tank.

Vertical and horizontal system fastenings

We provide two fastening systems – vertical and horizontal. After marking the attachment points, drill holes and insert dowels into them.

We mark the mounting points

We install mounting anchors for installation. We mount the installation body using screws and adjusting nuts.

Fasten to anchor bolts

Now let's start leveling the system. Vertical leveling is accomplished by adjusting the anchors. Horizontal alignment is achieved by loosening the supporting legs, installing them in the right place and then fixing them.
We connect the tank to the water supply. The connection can be made both from below and from the side, the main thing is not to use hoses - the connection is made exclusively using a pipe.
We connect the system to the sewer. If the holes do not match, you can use corrugation, but the service life of such a connection leaves much to be desired.

Trying on a corrugation for a sewer pipe

Along the edges of the installation frame we strengthen the profile for plasterboard. We sew up the system moisture-resistant plasterboard 1 cm thick.
In the place of the future drain button, install a cuff and a special plug. This is done to protect the hole from debris and dust when laying the tiles, and also to ensure that the hole in the tile is neat and level.
Place the tiles on the wall and wait up to two weeks before completely dry tile adhesive.
Apply to the intended place of contact between the toilet and the tiles. silicone sealant or install a damper gasket.

We fix the toilet on studs

We place the toilet on the studs, tighten the nuts and check the connections for leaks.

Connect and check for leaks

We connect the drain button, carefully measuring the levers connecting the button to the tank.

Of course, no one can do without a toilet. modern apartment. Standard models are gradually becoming obsolete, they are being replaced by more modern, convenient and functional built-in ones. This design can be installed on absolutely any wall of the room, which allows you to make maximum use of the entire space of the bathroom for convenience and comfort. does not require the mandatory intervention of professionals; you can easily do it yourself. To do this you need to familiarize yourself with certain subtleties and rules.

Advantages of built-in toilets

Built-in toilets are most common among the modern population. And this is not surprising, this design allows you to turn all the ideas of the owners into reality. In addition, built-in toilets have a number of advantages:

The only drawback of such toilets is the high price, but it is worth it.

In general, there are built-in toilets, both floor-mounted and wall-hung. Which one to choose is based on your personal preferences, but keep in mind that hanging options They make cleaning the room much easier. Because in the case of toilets that are located on the floor, there is always a hard-to-reach area at the back where cleaning is quite problematic.

Such structures can be installed on absolutely any wall, no matter whether it is load-bearing or made of plasterboard. The basic rule during installation is that you need to choose the right installation system.

There are several systems for installation, some of them require installation in the corner of the room, some systems are made in the form of rails, which also allows for other plumbing fixtures, such as a washbasin or bidet.

What is a wall-mounted toilet

As you have already seen, wall-mounted toilets are quite convenient to use and easy to install. This design is a steel frame, which is quite durable. The main part – the toilet bowl – is attached to it. This frame must be properly secured so that it can support significant weight.

This frame has a built-in special device that allows you to adjust the height of the toilet. The bowl itself is directly attached to special pins located in the frame structure. Thus, the hanging faience is fastened.

The next integral element of the entire structure is the cistern, which is most often made of plastic. Its main advantage is that it is hidden in the wall, while it is absolutely invisible, and the noise during operation is practically inaudible.

In front of the tank, on one of its walls, there is a hole where the drain button will be installed. It is also used in cases where it is necessary to repair or replace any spare parts in the structure. The most basic element in the entire built-in toilet is its bowl. You can find a wide variety of shapes and shades on sale, which allows you to emphasize the originality and sophistication of the taste of the owners.

Existing types of installation

Before installing a built-in toilet, you need to understand what types of installation exist:

Frame installation, which is represented by a metal frame, its kit includes necessary fastenings and supports.
Block installation, which is plastic tank, which is sold with a set of fittings, various studs to be able to secure the toilet, and plates for anchor bolts.

Installation using a steel frame, although expensive, is the most reliable and fastest. The first step is to assemble all the components of the frame and secure it. It can be mounted in several ways: on the wall at four points, on the wall at two points and on the floor at two points, or stand completely on the floor. The sizes of the metal frame are quite varied, choose it based on the size of your room.

The main advantage of this installation is that there is no need for any attachment to the wall; the toilet can be installed independently anywhere in the bathroom. The only drawback is the fairly high price, so not everyone can afford such designs.

Frame installations are sold complete with a built-in plastic cistern. If necessary, this design provides free access to the fittings, which is located behind the flush button. With a block installation, it is possible to install the toilet only on the main wall, which is a huge disadvantage, however, the price of such kits is much cheaper than the previous ones.

Carry out the installation very carefully and carefully; the quality of all subsequent work and the durability of the entire structure depend on this stage.

How to install a built-in toilet without using an installation system

If for certain reasons you do not want to install, then you can do without it. To do this, you should do the appropriate concrete base. In this case, the drain tank can be installed in several ways:

Mount into the wall, and at the same time bring the drain button out;
Place on top of the toilet bowl.

Instructions for installing a built-in toilet without using installation systems:

Connecting a built-in toilet to cold water should be done using metal pipe, not flexible hoses. This method will make the structure more reliable and durable. On the contrary, you need to connect to the sewerage system using a corrugated pipe, the diameter of which will be at least one hundred millimeters. Don't forget to turn off the valve cistern when you connect the toilet to the cold water supply system.

Proper installation of a toilet installation begins with checking the location and walls, especially if the toilet is supposed to be mounted on a wall. It must support the weight of a person. For this, powerful fasteners are used that are mounted on the main wall.

If the walls are in order, then you can proceed to the next stage - marking the walls for attaching the frame. The rigidity of the final structure, its reliability and correct location all the details. Our plumbers use laser levels and professional rulers that provide accuracy down to tenths of a millimeter.

Mounting the installation

The next stage is attaching brackets or anchors. They are usually supplied with the installation. Sometimes it is better to buy stronger anchors if you think that those offered by the supplier are too flimsy.

In addition, installation of the installation at this stage must be carried out in a certain order, which is duplicated in the special instructions for the equipment. Different installation systems are mounted in different ways, so it is important to take into account the features of a particular system.

After attaching all the necessary elements, installation of the installation frame or its blocks begins, depending on the type. At this stage, you need to perfectly align the frame in the vertical and horizontal dimensions. This is done by adjusting the bolts and legs of the structure in height.

Depending on the type of structure (floor-mounted or wall-mounted), installing a flush-mounted toilet may require additional fastenings or height adjustments. It is important to ensure correct position all design details.

Connection to communications

It is not enough to simply install the equipment; it is important to ensure its functionality. After the installation of the wall-hung toilet with installation is completed, you need to connect and insulate the inlet hoses and drain pipe. After connecting, we turn on the water and check the joints, the rate of water intake, and the pressure when draining.

Installation problems

If installed incorrectly, the following problems often occur:

leakage of the drain tank due to incorrect position of the gaskets;
stagnation of water in the drain due to improper position of the drain pipe;
leaking toilet due to weak gaskets;
wobbling toilet and cistern.

Our plumbers can easily solve these common situations by tightening the bolts, replacing the gaskets or changing their location. After final testing of the design, it works without problems.

Features of working with installations

This complex equipment, which requires competent installation. When installing a wall-hung toilet with installation, it is necessary to constantly monitor the position of individual structural elements. During operation, the frame often shifts and changes the angle of inclination, so you need to level it and adjust the bolts.

It is important to correctly attach the drain button at a height of no more than one meter, the sewer pipe should be located at a height of 22-23 cm, the drain should be strictly at an angle of 45 degrees. Otherwise, the flushing process will be difficult, the water will begin to stagnate, which can lead to unpleasant odors and structural damage.

Installation nuances

Installing an installation for a wall-hung toilet is more difficult. In this case, you need to take into account several details:

Wall strength;

Position of the drain pipe;

Height of the toilet. Mounting too high will make use uncomfortable;

Possibility of water supply.

All these issues are technically solvable, but this may require additional costs.

Bidet installation

In principle, installing a bidet with installation is carried out in approximately the same way: marking, fastening, mounting the structure, connecting communications and checking functionality.

There are technical features related to different designs bidet, water entry and drain points, type of mounting (wall or floor). Our plumbers are familiar with these details and will get the job done quickly.

How much does the installation cost?

In Moscow, the cost of installing an installation starts from 4-5 thousand rubles and can consist of the following parameters:

the cost of installing the installation itself;
cost of installing a toilet or bidet;
the cost of installing keys and flush buttons.

This price only includes plumbing work(without wall finishing, tiling, etc.). All work performed is covered by a guarantee.

What does the price depend on?

It is important to consider that the cost of installing an installation for a wall-hung toilet depends on the complexity of the design, manufacturer, size of the room, availability additional functions and so on.

Sometimes during the installation process we see that it is worth changing the supply pipes or fasteners, or replacing fittings. We will tell you about this right away, because then, after finishing, it will be very difficult to get to the communications, and worn-out elements will have to be replaced.

Design features

If you want to place the toilet in the middle of the bathroom (and this is possible), then we will need more time for installation, organizing communications and checking the functionality of the structure. Therefore it will cost more

TO difficult decisions This also includes work in cramped conditions, work with heavy structures, when the participation of several plumbers is required.

Call our specialists and tell us about the task. After a few questions, we will be able to tell you how much it costs to install a toilet installation in your case, how long it will take and arrange an appointment.

Our specialists arrive on the day of your order or the next day. We are familiar with different systems, so we will arrive with all the necessary equipment.

Today, more and more often in apartments you can see a wall-hung toilet. Some time ago, such a design was a novelty and raised doubts - would such a toilet bowl fall off the wall if a fairly large, densely built person sat on it?

And in fact, is a wall-hung toilet reliable enough? Does it have any advantages over a conventional toilet that is placed on the floor? How to properly install a wall-mounted toilet yourself?

All these many other questions will be answered below.

Why is a wall-hung toilet better than a regular one?

The most important advantage of such a toilet is its compactness.

If we measure the distance from the wall to its front edge, we will get approximately 50-52 cm. While a regular toilet protrudes into the room by more than 70 centimeters.

Besides, suspended structure it is much more convenient in terms of cleaning the room - debris does not accumulate under it, the distance from the bottom of the toilet bowl to the floor makes cleaning easy.

Visually, the room seems more spacious due to the absence of a bulky leg and flush tank.

Wall-hung toilet design

What is included in the wall-hung toilet kit?

As a rule, the manufacturer includes a frame in the installation kit, which is the element that holds the toilet and transfers the load from it and the person sitting on it to building structures, to which this frame is attached during installation, fasteners, as well as the toilet itself with pipes for connecting to the flush pipe and flush fittings.

Wall-hung toilet attached to a frame, which is covered with a false plasterboard wall, followed by cladding with tiles or wall panels.

This design looks very aesthetically pleasing and the room takes on a completely different look:

Installation of a wall-hung toilet

This short instruction will come in handy when installing a wall-mounted toilet. Below you will find a description of the installation sequence of all elements of its design.

First of all, install the frame on which the toilet is mounted. Many people call this frame an “installation,” although this name is not entirely correct (English installation - installation), but it has taken root among the people and today, when they say installation, they mean a frame for a wall-hung toilet.

Installation of the frame is carried out at the very first stage repair work in the bathroom, when there is no finishing on the walls and ceilings yet and it looks something like this:

The frame is equipped with all the necessary elements for installing a toilet - pipes for water supply and drainage, mounting bolts and flush fittings. All available fasteners can be slightly adjusted for more precise installation of the toilet.

At self-installation The question often arises: at what height should a wall-hung toilet be installed?

The answer here is quite simple - you need to install the toilet at a height that will be convenient for those who will use it.

The thing is that the frame is adjustable and this makes it possible to choose the most comfortable height installations.

After the frame is installed and securely fastened to the walls and floor with anchor bolts, it is covered with a false plasterboard wall, which is finished in the same style as the rest of the walls - ceramic tiles or decorative panels. A graphic representation of the sequence of actions is shown in this scan of the instructions:

The main thing is not to forget to mark and cut in the right places all the holes that will be required for further installation:

After the frame has been placed in the wall, all the necessary holes have been made in the wall and the finishing has been done, you can proceed to the actual installation of the wall-hung toilet itself.

The sequence of operations is as follows:

We will need to screw in the mounting threaded rods on which our toilet will be attached, and also attach the outlet pipe and the water supply (flush) pipe to it.

To avoid mistakes, you should first measure the depth of the holes in the wall into which the pipes will be inserted and mark this distance on the pipes of the fan (outlet) pipe and the water supply pipe to the toilet (flush):

The pipes cut to the required length are attached to the toilet bowl:

Important! When assembling, you must first attach the pipes specifically to the toilet, and not insert them into the wall, and then try to attach the toilet to them.

All connection points and those located in them sealing rubber bands For reliability, you can coat it with sanitary silicone sealant:

This will improve the tightness of the connections and prevent possible leaks.

After all connections are coated with sealant and the gaskets are in place, you can put the toilet on the mounting studs screwed into the wall and secure it with nuts to the wall:

The nuts should be tightened carefully so that the fragile earthenware does not burst from excessive force.

Once the toilet is securely fixed, you can cut off the protruding edges of the sealing gasket using a utility knife:

Also after this you need to cut off the extra accordion for the shutter button:

Now it's time to turn on the water supply to the tank. To do this, you need to remove the plastic cover in the hole where the shutter button will be placed.

Before you begin installing the toilet installation yourself, you need to make preliminary markings on the wall and floor.

First, determine the vertical, which must coincide with the axis of the frame. There are three options:

Separate bathroom without washbasin and bidet. In this case, the vertical runs through the center of the wall on or near which the installation is installed.
Bathroom with toilet and bidet. Both installations are lined up. And the vertical axes for each frame should be positioned so that they fall in the center of the selected location, taking into account the ergonomics of the bathroom. Under standard conditions, both axes should “divide” the wall into three equal parts.
Combined bathroom. The vertical line on the wall should pass through the geometric center of the selected location.

The next step is to mark the vertical center of the drain key. For a block system, this is the only reference point, and it is usually located at a height of 1 m above the finished floor level. Therefore, you need to take into account the thickness:

leveling screed;
heated floors with insulation and their own screed (if provided);
finishing layer (tile adhesive plus tiles).

For a frame installation of standard height, this size (1 m) is specified in the diagram, but if it is short, then they are guided by the installation height of a particular model.

Further marking is carried out as follows:

A horizontal line is struck level in the center of the key or the top of the frame and the installation width is marked on it.
From these points, vertical lines are drawn down. They continue on the floor parallel to each other and perpendicular to the plane of the wall.
Mark on each line a distance greater than the installation depth indicated in the passport. Actual size must also take into account the gap from the tank to the wall of 1.5 cm, the method of laying sewer pipe and its maximum outer diameter at the joints. So, with an installation depth of 12 cm, the minimum distance from the wall to the front surface of the installation is 13.5 cm - if the pipe “goes” under the ceiling, 15.5 cm - if the sewer pipe runs along the wall. And this does not take into account irregularities.
Connect the marks - this will be the line along which the places where the legs are attached to the floor are located.
Check the perpendicularity of this line relative to the side wall. If necessary, adjust it, making sure that the shortest distance to the wall is no less than the actual depth.

Markings on the wall underneath block installation It’s much simpler and only involves marking the attachment points to the wall. In accordance with the diagram and focusing on the recommended height of the flush button, a parallel line is struck from the vertical axis on each side at a distance equal to half the installation width. And on these lines the points of attachment of the frame to the main wall are marked.

Materials and tools

Even when purchasing the installation, you need to check the completeness. In addition to the frame itself, the tank, the inlet valve and the flush elbow must be:

drain elbow;
key;
fastenings and fastening elements;
plugs for flush and drain pipes (to prevent debris from getting in during operation);
gasket for mounting a wall-mounted toilet (sound insulation).

In the case when you are installing plumbing fixtures yourself for the first time, it would be good to find out if the seller has spare parts for installation (if something goes wrong). All leading manufacturers produce spare parts and repair kits for installations - pipes, elbows, inlet and flush valves, membranes, seals and transitions. In addition, there should be an assortment various types fasteners and fasteners, which can be purchased separately.

You also need to purchase a set of pipes to connect the wall-hung toilet to the installation, silicone sealant for the joints of sewer pipes and fum tape for installation shut-off valve on a water pipe.

To install a wall-hung toilet with installation, you will need the following tools:

level, tape measure, ruler, construction corner, pencil or marker;
hammer drill and concrete drills;
hammer;
set wrenches(as well as an adjustable or gas wrench);
screwdrivers;
pliers.

If you immediately install a frame from a profile for subsequent sheathing with plasterboard, then you also need a tool for this work:

metal scissors;
drill;
knife or hacksaw;
screwdriver

Features of installation and toilets installation

As mentioned above, there are three options for “installation and toilet” combinations.

Wall-hung toilet with block design

Easiest for self-installation An option for mounting the system is to install the frame on the surface of the main wall and lay a quarter-brick partition below the structure to provide a reliable support for the wall-mounted toilet. The butt size of a single brick is 12.5 cm plus 1 cm of vertical joint made of masonry mortar, and the resulting 13.5 cm is just right for most models whose installation depth lies within these limits.

Another option is to purchase a block installation, which includes two special floor supports to “support” the wall-mounted toilet bowl. These supports are placed on the sanitary ware fastening pins, and they do not allow the bowl to “fall” back. Such models include Geberit Kombifix (110.340.00.5). If such accessories are not included in the kit, they can be purchased separately, for example Geberit Kombifix stops (457.888.26.1) or Alcaplast mounting kit (M90).

Do-it-yourself installation of a block installation proceeds according to the following algorithm:

At the marked fastening points on the wall, holes are made with a puncher, to which the frame is screwed with dowels.
Drive in dowels or anchors and screw the frame to them.
Insert the tank into the frame and connect it to water pipe(a water supply tube may be included in the delivery package) and to the flush elbow.
Screw in the mounting studs to secure the bowl.
Connect the drain elbow to the sewer through an adapter pipe (from the kit or purchased additionally).

Wall-hung toilet with frame installation

This is the most common version of the hidden installation design - it is suitable for installation near any wall or partition, regardless of its load-bearing capacity.

Installation of the toilet installation takes place in the following sequence:

Holes for dowels are drilled at the marked attachment points to the floor and wall.
A cistern with a flush mechanism and a flush elbow is attached to the frame.
Install the frame and attach the legs to the subfloor.
It is adjusted in height and horizontal level using retractable support elements. The structure is secured with bolts in the required position.
Using metal fasteners, the structure is fixed to the wall. Typically these are studs with an adjusting head on the frame side and mounting angles or plates on the wall side.
Screw in the pins and lock. Install the mounting angles in place and screw them to the wall.
Adjust the position of the frame vertically by tightening or unscrewing the studs using a head (adjustment depth up to 45 mm). The position of the structure is secured with a lock nut.
Attach the cuff for the drain elbow to the frame. The elbow is installed, connected to the sewer pipe through an adapter, and fixed to the frame with a clamp.
Connect the tank inlet valve to the water pipe using the supplied or purchased adapter.
Attach the studs for the hanging bowl.
A button and a toilet are temporarily installed. They open the water, test the system for operability, check the tightness of connections and connections.
If no problems are found, the button and toilet are removed. Close the holes of both elbows with plugs and begin covering the installation.

Note. One of the features of installing a frame installation is the ability to install it on a finished floor surface. In this case, marking and installation are carried out without adjustments for the thickness of the finishing coating layers.

Floor-standing toilet with block installation

One of the low-budget options for using a block installation system is a concealed-mounted cistern without a frame with a front flush button. Moreover, this option can be used for walls made of any materials. The load from a 6-liter tank can be withstood by a half-brick wall or a frame made of metal profile or wooden beam(if the tank is attached to the frame itself or embedded elements).

The only problem that may arise during installation is the alignment of the flush hole floor-standing toilet with flush cistern elbow.

Attaching a floor-standing toilet to the installation

Correct installation of a floor-standing toilet on an installation is only possible if the tiles on the floor have already been laid or there is an exact level of the finished surface. In this case, markings are made on the wall by selecting the center of the flush hole in the toilet as the reference point rather than the flush key. And the installation takes place in the following order:

Select a location for installing plumbing fixtures.
They mark a vertical axis on the wall. Mark on it the point of connection of the floor-standing toilet to the flush elbow of the cistern.
The dimensions of the block installation and attachment points are noted relative to this point.
The tank is mounted (in a niche, on the wall, in a frame partition).
Connect to a water pipe.
Install the flush elbow.
They make a sewer line (along the wall, in a grooved channel, inside a frame partition.
The system and toilet are temporarily connected. Check the operation and tightness of the system.
Close the flush and drain pipes with plugs, and the studs with tubes.
The installation is covered with plasterboard (with holes for flushing and draining). Or they seal the niche and grooves with mortar.
Conduct finishing walls.
Connect and secure the floor-mounted toilet.

Installation procedure for a wall-hung toilet

The hanging bowl is mounted after the installation for the toilet has been installed and finished finishing work. And depending on the type of installation, installation method and wall materials, there are the following options for preparation for finishing:

install a block or frame system and cover the entire surface from floor to ceiling with a double layer of plasterboard;
install a frame or block system and make a box from plasterboard;
install a frame system in a frame wall;
install a frame or block system in a niche and or cover it with a layer of plaster.

After the installation and communications are “hidden” under the rough surface of the walls and floor, finishing is carried out with selected materials (tiles or decorative plaster). Then they begin to install the wall-hung toilet.

Note. It is believed that the maximum benefit from the hidden installation of the tank and communications is achieved if the installation for the toilet is installed in a niche.

Niche for installation

A niche is made in the wall for installation if the installation depth of the frame, materials and wall thickness allow such work to be performed. And in addition to the niche in the wall, they also cut channels for water and sewer pipes, which, like the installation, must be installed secretly.

Important. This method is not suitable for load-bearing walls made of bricks (for walls made of reinforced concrete, it is technically impossible to make a niche with your own hands). And if the arch of a niche can be reinforced with an insert made of a metal profile (standard practice for an opening), then this option is not suitable for hidden pipe laying - cutting horizontal channels into load-bearing wall prohibited at the regulatory level.
And make it without horizontal grooves hidden wiring extremely difficult - only if the pipes approach the niche from below, and are laid before it in a screed or between the joists of a wooden floor.

For a niche in the wall, there is only one option provided by the manufacturer - for a block installation with an attached toilet.

In addition to this option, they also use a bathroom niche in which the water supply and sewer risers pass. In this case, a frame made of a metal profile is installed in a niche, and a frame installation for a wall-mounted toilet is attached to it.

Installation of a frame with a tank in a niche

The complexity of this method is that the installation of the frame in the niche is “non-standard”. The installation instructions from GEBERIT and GROHE do not cover this option, and the kit does not include fasteners for this.

Installation of the frame in a niche proceeds according to the following algorithm:

Mark the line for installing the legs on the floor, taking into account the installation depth, the location of the water and sewer risers. The markings must be perpendicular to the walls of the niche or in the plane of the adjacent surface.
The verticals on the walls of the niches are set off from this line.
Mount reinforced guides of the UA50 profile on the floor, side walls of the niche and ceiling.
Install the frame into the profile and fasten it to the floor, having previously drilled holes for the dowels.
Set the height of the legs and the horizontal level of the frame.
Fasteners (studs or other type of fastening) are made to a specific size to rigidly fix the installation to the “far” wall of the niche. Drill holes for these fasteners and attach the frame.
Cut a section of the UA profile to the width of the niche. Attach it to the side profiles and frame.
Install the flush and drain fittings for a wall-hung toilet. Install studs to secure the bowl. Connect the tank to the water supply and the drain elbow to the sewer. The toilet is temporarily hung and connected to the installation. Check the system for leaks and functionality.
Remove the tank, close the flush and drain holes with plugs, and close the toilet studs with protective tubes. Attach plasterboard cut to size to the profiles in two layers.

Sewage supply

Supplying water to the toilet installation does not cause any difficulties. And for any connection of the tank (from the side or from above), lay a rigid or flexible pipe Half an inch is always possible. With connection to the sewerage system the situation is more complicated. The diagram for the installation shows two types of connections:

the knee goes down at a right angle;
the knee is rotated 45° in the plane of the frame.

In most cases, the connection of the installation to the sewer system is based on these options.

The first option, for example, is used for direct connection to the drain, when the frame stands in the same niche as it. The second option is used when laying drain pipe to the riser along the wall.

But there are times when both options are not suitable due to limited space and the unique geometry of the bathroom - large diameter Rigid pipes and fixed elbow angles make it difficult to do this correctly. And in order to solve the problem of how to turn a sewer elbow away from the installation and provide the required slope angle, they use, for example, D 90/110 MM FLEXI corrugation from the ALCAPLAST company. But in this case, it is necessary to check the slope of the corrugation.

Connecting communications

To connect to the water supply, the installation kit includes an inlet valve with an external outlet for a ½-inch pipe and an angle shut-off valve inside the installation.

For toilet installations with a bidet function, an additional tube is supplied to the fitting intimate hygiene. And to ensure comfortable temperature, such models are also connected to the electrical network to heat water, which is used for washing. And for this purpose, fastenings are provided for mounting the protective tube of the electrical wiring.

How to check the system for functionality

After connecting to communications, before sewing up the installation, it is necessary to check the operation and the system for leaks. To do this, pre-install the toilet with the following installation:

adapters with cuffs and sealing rings are inserted into the flush and drain holes of the installation;
“put” the toilet on the studs and move it as close as possible to the installation so that the adapters fit more tightly into the toilet (it won’t be possible to push it in tightly - the pipes are too long);
open the shut-off valve on the inlet valve;
when the tank is full, drain the water (for pneumatics, you need to connect the button and flush valve with tubes, for mechanics, activate the flush valve rod by hand).

After checking and fixing possible malfunctions The toilet bowl, adapters and button are removed.

How to install a wall-hung toilet to an installation

Even when choosing a location and marking, it is stipulated that the height of the wall-hung toilet from the floor without a lid should be 40 cm. But if after laying the tiles it turns out that it will hang 2 cm higher or lower, this is acceptable.

The wall-hung toilet is mounted on studs after adjusting the size of the adapter pipes for connecting the toilet drain and flush to the installation:

Remove the protective plugs and tubes.
Insert the adapters into the elbows and mark the level “0” on them - the plane of the surface of the installation cladding.
Then insert the adapters with the other side into the toilet (put a sealing cuff on the flush bowl). Mark level “0” on the toilet.
Shorten the adapters by the difference between the two marks.

Place a gasket on the studs (it serves to protect the finish and dampen structural noise during flush operation) and begin installing the wall-hung toilet on the installation:

Rubber bushings are inserted into the holes for mounting the wall-hung toilet.
Insert adapter pipes into the drain and flush holes of the bowl.
Place the wall-mounted toilet on the studs so that the transition pipes fit exactly into their holes on the installation, and the bowl fits tightly to the wall.
Place elastic washers and steel washers on the studs and tighten the nuts.
Before finally tightening the fasteners, you can slightly adjust the horizontal level relative to the height of the toilet from the floor.

Installation of the flush button

According to the principle of operation, there are two types of toilet flush button: mechanical and pneumatic.

Even at the installation assembly stage, a flush valve is installed. Each company has its own design, but the principle of operation is common:

a mechanical button activates the flush using a pull rod, separate for each key - economy mode and full flush;
For a pneumatic flush, two tubes go from the valve to the button - for each mode there is one.

Installation of the flush button begins with its connection to the flush valve. For a mechanical drive, the rods (pins) must be “adjusted” in length and each connected to its own key, while for a pneumatic drive, the tubes must be connected.

Then the button is “snapped” into the socket.

Common Difficulties

The main problems arise due to the limited size of most bathrooms. This is especially true for strictly residential buildings, when in addition to the small “dimensions” there is added poor geometry of the room - the absence of right angles and parallels in the enclosing surfaces. In this case, even the slope of the wall is checked before installation. And leveling the walls further reduces the room for “maneuver” when installing the installation under the toilet.

Helps you avoid mistakes and rework right choice type and model of installation, as well as accuracy of marking, frame location and compliance with the installation diagram.

And the main condition is careful handling of mechanisms and sanitary ware. Even “tightening” the fastenings of the intake and exhaust valves or the hinged bowl can lead to a violation of the tightness of the connections or damage to the device itself.

What is important to know. You need to buy installation and plumbing from reputable brands. It is better to do this with dealers or trading companies that have appropriate agreements with service centers and provide a guarantee for the purchased product. In addition, if necessary, you can buy additional accessories or a repair kit for the selected installation model from such sellers.