Build a shed with a side porch. Do-it-yourself shed: how to create a shed from simple materials

Arranging a suburban area is similar to renovating an apartment. The process cannot be completed, it can only be paused and then continued. Your own estate, like a living organism, always requires close attention, investment of labor effort and money from the owner. The issue becomes especially acute when it comes to domestic buildings. I want them to be strong, comfortable, outwardly decent, but inexpensive.

The combination of savings and results is possible if you build with your own hands. To do this, you need to know how to build a frame barn with a pitched roof - the most accessible option for an inexperienced performer.

It is not for nothing that frame technologies are persistently displacing traditional construction methods from domestic spaces. New methods are widely used in the construction of bathhouses, garages, cottages, and solid residential buildings. In the field of shed construction, frame technology has no alternative at all, because it:

• Cheap. The consumption of materials required for the construction of walls is significantly reduced. Thanks to the lightness frame construction The basis is a budget columnar foundation.
• Fast. Construction is completed many times faster than construction load-bearing structures from foam blocks, bricks, timber, logs.
• Easily. The installation of the frame elements of a small shed is carried out without special construction equipment.
• Practical. A building assembled from panels on a frame can be dismantled if necessary, moved and reassembled in another place.

Besides everything else, it's just convenient. The frame structure easily adapts to the economic needs and taste criteria of the owners. It is possible to add or change the configuration.

Rafter systems pitched roofs rest on the upper frame of the frame building, which plays the role of a mauerlat. When installing pitched roof V classic version The rafters are laid separately on walls of different heights.

The difference in the height of the supporting walls provides the slope with the slope necessary to drain precipitation. However, this is not a necessary condition for installing a pitched roof. It is quite possible to build it over a box with walls located at the same level if:

• Build a cantilever-girder frame over one of the walls of the frame box. The frame in such structures serves as a support for the purlin, on which the rafters rest on top.
• Install trusses shaped like a right triangle. The long boat of the triangle is attached to the harness, the hypotenuse plays the role of a rafter leg.

The choice of covering for a pitched roof is closely related to the slope of its single plane. In most cases, these are flat structures with a slope of up to 8º. For their arrangement, bitumen or bitumen-polymer roll material is best suited.

Single-pitch systems with a slope of 10º to 25º are covered with profiled metal sheets or roofing steel without a profile. If it is necessary to maintain the integrity of the architectural ensemble, it is permissible to lay piece material on pitched roofs. But it should be clearly remembered that the lower the steepness, the greater the likelihood of stagnation of precipitation and the flow of atmospheric water into roofing pie. Following the extremely undesirable hydration of the components roofing system premature destruction will inevitably occur.

Construction of a shed with a pitched roof step by step

Analysis specific examples – best way learn how to properly build a barn with a strong pitched roof. Studying real solutions will help you study the principles of technology, get an idea of ​​how to distribute the stages of work and what to focus on.

The projects we offer as a sample will give you the opportunity to easily build a similar object or tell you how to make your own design.

Construction of a frame shed on runners

The undeniable advantage of a light frame shed on runners is that it can be moved and installed anywhere in the garden if desired. For example, it can be placed in the summer near a pool or pond for temporary placement pumping equipment, and at the end of the season, transport it closer to home for storing firewood.

For the purpose of periodic transportation, the structure is mounted on timber runners. If the idea of ​​mobility does not excite you, the barn, depending on the properties of the underlying soil, rests on a surface reinforced concrete slab or on shallow concrete blocks located at the corners of the building.

We will illustrate the process of building a shed on skids. An owner who knows only basic carpentry techniques can build such an object with his own hands and equip it with a basic pitched roof. The dimensions in the pictures are given in inches; we did not change them so as not to confuse interested readers. Those who wish can translate the data by multiplying the given numbers by a conditional coefficient of 2.54.

For convenience, we will divide the construction into the following stages:

• Foundation construction. Structurally, it includes a frame attached to two parallel bars-runners. The runners are made of 4"x4" timber, the frame is made of 2"x4" timber. The space between the sides of the frame is filled with 2"x4" pieces of timber. The base elements are connected with nails or self-tapping screws. For reliability, it is advisable to duplicate critical places metal corners. The runners are secured with 4 screws. All fastening points must be at least 1.2 inches away from the edge of the workpiece being attached so that the wooden parts do not split.
• Floor installation. We measure the diagonals before attaching a sheet of 3/4″ plywood to the frame, which plays the role of the future floor. The dimensions of the diagonals must match. If the condition is not met, we identify the flaws and correct them, then attach the sheet. We do not tighten the fasteners “all the way” so as not to damage the plywood. We lay additional piping along the perimeter of the floor, taking into account the doorway.
• Construction of the rear wall of the frame. We cut out the parts for it from an inch to size, taking into account the formation of the doorway. The top of the vertical elements should be sawed at an angle of 17.5º. The wall posts are fixed with temporary jibs. After checking the installation parameters with a level gauge, the racks are attached with corners to the base. The top of regular posts and short posts above the opening is connected by a board nailed on top - the back part of the top trim. It should be located at an angle.
• Construction of the front wall. This is done in a similar way, but taking into account the absence of a doorway. We cut out the racks according to size and saw them at the top at an angle of 17.5º. In both cases, it is more convenient to make cuts before installation. However, if you are not confident in the accuracy of cutting and installation, it is better to cut the parts with a small margin. And after installation and fixation, file it down after the fact.
• Construction of side walls. They are made in the form of a frame with a central post in the middle. The outer frame elements strengthen the corner posts of the frame shed.
• Making rafters. To cut the rafters, use a cut of an inch. We apply it to the site of the upcoming installation from the end and mark the cut lines. Using this template, we cut it out of 2ʺ×4ʺ timber.
• Installation of rafter legs. We place the rafters exactly above the posts of the front and rear walls. For fastening we use nails or self-tapping screws.
• Sheathing. It is produced using wall corrugated sheets, tongue-and-groove or non-groove boards.
• Attaching the wind board. After covering the walls at the top along the perimeter, a 1ʺ×4ʺ board is installed so that the edge of the previous element is covered by the end of the next one. The cutting of parts is carried out with preliminary fittings according to the actual position.
• Installation of sheathing. Moisture resistant plywood We cut 1/2″ taking into account the actual area of ​​the roof together with the board installed around the perimeter. The sheet material is fixed to the rafters.
• Laying waterproofing and covering. On flat roofs we lay a continuous waterproofing carpet over the sheathing. The waterproofing strips are laid from bottom to top so that the seams are ultimately directed along the flow of atmospheric water. Waterproofing is laid with an overlap of 10-15cm. A roof is placed on top of it. In the example described, this is flexible tiles, the installation technology of which.

At the end, the doorway is framed with jambs made of 1ʺ×4ʺ boards, and door hinges and the door is hung.

The proposed method of constructing a mobile shed with a pitched roof is suitable for constructing do-it-yourself children's houses, booths for storing equipment, and external components of well heads.

IN budget options the base frame can be simply secured by driving reinforcement into the ground. Metal rods, approximately 50cm long, are either simply driven through holes drilled in the frame, or driven close to the base and attached to it using metal plates.

Construction of a permanent shed

Despite the more substantial dimensions of the next barn, pouring a strip or monolithic foundation under it does not make the slightest sense. Concrete blocks laid in three rows are sufficient. However, this does not mean that the work of digging and preparing a pit can be abolished. They are permitted to be abandoned only if a site is allocated for construction, previously leveled and carefully compacted during active use.

If the shed is to be built on an unprepared site, you will first have to completely remove the soil and plant layer. Then dig a pit 0.2 m deep below the seasonal freezing level in a particular region.

We will find the mark in the collection of standards “Construction Climatology”, not forgetting to check the readings with the type of soil on the site. The bottom of the pit should be compacted, covered with a crushed stone-sand cushion to a depth of 25-30 cm and filled with a layer of lean cement 10 cm thick.

After the concrete has hardened, we will mark a pit for the construction of brick or foam concrete pillars. We will build supports of the type that suits us. While laying the posts, we will lay anchors for future fastening of the lower frame frame.

We will lay scraps of roofing felt on top of the pillars to protect wooden frame from rotting. We will assume that the stage of constructing the foundation has been successfully completed and will proceed directly to the construction of a shed with a pitched roof.

Work algorithm:

• We check how accurately the support pillars are built. We place a board flat on a row of pillars and set the spirit level. We correct any identified errors by installing cuttings of boards on the tops of the posts. We carry out control actions by placing the board along long and short rows.
• We lay the foundation beam on the leveled columnar foundation. If anchors were not laid during the construction of the pillars, we first try on the timber in place and mark the points for drilling holes for fastening to the pillars.
• We install the frame of the lower trim on top of the beam and fill it inside with ordinary logs.
• We lay a floor made of thick plywood, boards or OSB boards along the joists. We lay the floor elements with 2-3mm gaps for linear thermal expansion.
• We mount the front wall according to the dimensions. We fix its position with temporary jibs.
• We assemble and install the rear and side walls of the frame. If the cutting was done correctly, the result of the assembly will be a flawless frame with walls of the same height. Otherwise, you will have to file or build up. For craftsmen who doubt the impeccability of their work, it is advisable to assemble the walls not with a finished frame, but with separate racks, cut with a small margin in length. According to this method, the top of the posts is secured with temporary side strapping. And after the construction of all the walls, the excess is sawed off according to the indications of the upper edge of the trim.
• The top trim is installed on top of the ends of the racks in two rows. If a temporary side board was used for leveling, it should be removed. The stationary piping is laid with overlapping joints of the underlying row.
• We assemble a cantilever-girder frame from short racks, the top of which is filed at the required angle to form a slope. We calculate the angle in advance by drawing the roof profile in the diagram in the form of a regular right triangle.
• We make a template for the rafter legs from the board, placing the blank on the side to the installation site. Do not forget that the length of the rafter leg must provide the front and rear eaves overhang.
• We cut out the rafters, install them directly above the posts, and secure them with metal corners.
• We install a continuous sheathing along the rafters with a waterproofing carpet and lay the roofing covering: profiled roofing steel, etc.

Upon completion of the frame installation, we cover the barn with siding or any similar material.

Then we build a door frame, hang the door, and lock it. We close the cantilever frame from the inside with a mesh. If you are thinking about how best to make a roof with one slope on a frame barn with equal-height walls, information about carrying out construction using the described method will be very useful.

Installation of a slope with trusses

The use of ready-made trusses in the formation of a pitched roof is fully justified by the convenience and safety of the work. The main steps in the manufacture of rafter modules are carried out in calm conditions on solid ground.

You can purchase wooden or metal trusses ready-made; you just need to place them on the roof and secure them. True, the purchase will increase the construction budget somewhat.

Self-construction of roof trusses will allow you to save an impressive amount. In addition, an inexperienced craftsman in carpentry who decides to do the work himself will be much more comfortable working on the ground.

It is easier to control the accuracy of dimensions and correct defects than to saw off, extend, or connect at height. Thanks to the comfortable conditions of carpentry work, the quality of the structure increases significantly.

The main advantage of using roof trusses in frame construction is that the closed triangular module does not transmit thrust to the walls, which is extremely undesirable for load-bearing structures of this type. The thrust is distributed and damped inside roof truss without transferring the load to the building frame.

However, the method is still not ideal. It is used only in the case of arranging small buildings, because... rafter triangles without additional devices have the right to cover spans only up to 7 m, with additions in the form of struts and supports up to 24 m.

Rafter trusses are installed on frames with walls equal height. The principle of construction is elementary. Wooden modules are made according to pre-designed dimensions, with a configuration resembling right triangles.

The hypotenuse of the triangle is most often a rafter leg, or less often it is a supporting element on top of which the rafter is laid. The long leg acts as a floor beam. The short leg plays the role of a rack of a kind of cantilever-girder frame, made up of the end parts of the trusses.

Before making rafter triangles, it is necessary to make a drawing with calculations. The length of the rafter leg should provide eaves overhangs on both sides. If the truss is made for subsequent fastening of the rafters on top of the hypotenuse, then the triangle is drawn without taking into account the overhangs. Those. the long leg is equal to the width of the box being equipped.

The steepness of a pitched roof must be carefully considered. The predominant number of structures with one slope have a slight slope due to the increased wind load on the vertical part of the roof. However, manufacturers of profiled roofing steel, for example, strongly recommend using the material for arranging slopes with a slope of at least 25º.

Increasing the angle of inclination to the dimensions recommended by manufacturers sometimes brings results that are not very attractive by aesthetic criteria. In addition, the consumption of materials for the construction of the rafter system and laying the covering increases. As the steepness decreases, the consumption of waterproofing increases due to the need to lay a multi-layer continuous carpet and reinforce problem areas with additional water protection strips.

The videos will explain in a “live” form how you can make a high-quality pitched roof with your own hands: video instructions will clearly introduce you to the construction process.

An ingenious method of building on a tire foundation:

Common construction technology:

Frame shed on concrete slabs:

Construction of a shed with a pitched roof using frame technology is a task that can be safely undertaken by the owner who has not forgotten how to hold a tool in his hands.

There are not too many technological subtleties, but there are still specificities. Without taking into account the specifics of construction, there cannot be an impeccable result. You should remember this when choosing the best way structures, and in the implementation of planned plans.

No matter the size of the house, you can’t do without a shed on the site. Not everything can and should be brought into the house, even if there is space, and even if there is not, then even more so - outbuildings are necessary. By the way, this may be your first experience in independent construction: you can build a shed with your own hands without any skills. The main thing is that the hands grow from the right place.

What materials are they built from?

If the shed is located close to the house and you care about its appearance, it makes sense to use the same material as when building the house. If you don’t want to spend a large amount on outbuildings, you can choose the finish so that you can’t tell it from a distance. In most cases, this is not very difficult: there are many technologies and many materials very accurately reproduce the appearance of expensive finishing materials. A striking example of this is. It is available for logs, beams, bricks, stones with different textures. So you don’t have to use expensive materials to build a shed. It is more practical to use inexpensive construction technology, and then cover it with material with a texture similar to the finishing of the main building.

How to quickly and cheaply build a shed

The fastest and at the same time inexpensive option building a barn - by . The frame can be wooden or, it is sheathed on the outside with finishing, a roof is installed and that’s it, the barn is ready. If the barn is planned to be made of wood, it is assembled from timber and boards. A metal shed can be more conveniently made from a profiled pipe: square section and it’s much easier to weld and join. There is also a special metal frame. It is assembled using self-tapping screws, and the entire structure is ordered and manufactured at the factory. Such houses are considered the cheapest; barns are unlikely to be expensive. Assembling both a metal and wooden shed takes several days: it has been tested more than once.

The frame building is lightweight, so the foundation for the barn needs a lightweight one. In most cases, columns and concrete blocks are sufficient; sometimes they install screw piles or make bored ones. On more difficult soils and for those who love reliability, you can build a monolithic or prefabricated one () strip foundation shallow laying.

Another option. It is suitable for soils from which water drains well, and the groundwater is located deep. Then they mark out an area that is 50 cm larger than the planned barn in each direction, remove the turf and make a sand and gravel backfill. The strapping beams are laid on the compacted crushed stone and the floor joists are attached to them (treated with anti-septic tiles for direct contact of the wood with the ground). That's all. No difficulties.

This is far from best option: even at low level groundwater and careful processing of wood, the barn will not last long. If you are comfortable with this, you can do it this way.

Foundation for a frame shed

All types of pile or columnar foundations require the placement of single supports around the perimeter: always at the corners of the building and at the junction of lintels (partitions), if any are provided. The installation step of the supports depends on the size of the barn and what kind of logs you plan to use. The larger the span, the larger the section required for the logs.

For example, for a barn width of 2 meters, you can install only two rows of posts and the logs will be 150 * 50 mm (in extreme cases, 150 * 40 mm). If the width of the barn is 3 meters, then either install intermediate supports (posts, piles), or take a 150 * 70 mm board. Calculate what will be cheaper in your region and choose.

With a board width of 100 mm, the floor bends noticeably under your feet. So you have to make the installation step of the log about 30 cm. Then there is no deflection at all, or it is insignificant (depending on the weight).

The fastest way to make a foundation is on ready-made blocks: you can buy them or make them yourself. Under them, pits are dug a little larger in size than blocks. Sand is poured onto the bottom, compacted, then gravel, this is also compacted. The thickness of the compacted bedding is 20-30 cm. Blocks are installed on it, and the lower trim is mounted on the blocks.

If we are talking about a shallow strip foundation, then a trench is dug 40-60 cm deep relative to the ground level, the width of the strip is about 25 cm, and the trench itself must be wider by at least half a meter or more: the bottom is leveled and compacted. Crushed stone is poured onto the bottom and compacted again.

A frame is knitted from a 12-14 mm rod. Four ribbed longitudinal rods are connected using frames made of smooth rod 6-8 mm. The dimensions of the frames must be such that all reinforcement is located from the edges of the tape at a distance of at least 5 cm. For example, if the foundation is 40*25 cm, then the rods are tied into a structure with rectangular cross-section 30*15 cm.

A connected frame is installed in the formwork, which is then poured at least M-200

Do-it-yourself wooden frame shed: step by step with photos

A frame barn measuring 6*3 meters was built. The roof is pitched, covered with ondulin. The height of the front wall is 3 meters, the back one is 2.4 m. Operation has shown that with such a difference in height, snow does not accumulate much (Len. region).

Standard FBS 600*300*200 blocks were used as the foundation for the barn. They are laid on a sand and gravel bedding 25 cm thick. A cut-off waterproofing layer is laid on top of the blocks - a layer of roofing felt, on bitumen mastic. A layer of “hydrotex” is also glued on top of the same mastic. This cake was made because the groundwater level was high, and it was necessary to ensure that the building was protected from dampness.

Start of construction of the barn. Waterproofing is laid on the foundation, a frame is placed on it, and a beam is attached to the frame

A beam with a cross section of 150*150 mm was laid on the waterproofing (all lumber was processed). Connected into half a tree, nailed - 100 * 4 mm. For those who are unfamiliar with carpentry, you can join the beams end-to-end, nail reinforced corners to the joints from the inside, and a mounting plate from the outside.

IN this option the frame was not attached to the blocks in any way. In regions with high wind loads this is unjustified. You can fasten it using studs: a hole of the same diameter (12-14 mm) is drilled under them, through the beam, into the block. A pin is driven into it, the bolt is then tightened with a wrench. To hide the cap, you can drill a hole for it.

The next step is to attach the floor joists. Installed on the edge of a 150*60 mm board. They are attached to the harness with special brackets of the appropriate size. Attached to 100*4 mm nails.

The logs were aligned along the upper edge of the strapping beam. Everything must be level, otherwise the floor will be difficult to lay. You may have to level it with a plane or redo it.

The frame was assembled using the “platform” technology: first the floor was laid, and the walls were mounted on it. The wall frame or part of it is assembled on the floor. In some cases, they are immediately sheathed from the outside if slab material is chosen for the sheathing. And already in this form (with or without casing) they are lifted, placed vertically and secured.

There is a second technology called “balloon”. The frame is mounted along it gradually: the corner posts of the frame are mounted on the frame or even directly on the blocks. They are leveled in all planes. A rope is pulled between them, along which the remaining racks are then placed. They are also nailed one at a time, fastening them together with slopes and temporary cross members.

In this case, the “platform” technology was chosen and 18 mm thick OSB was laid on the logs. In general, the floor can be made of boards, plywood (moisture resistant), OSB, etc. You will need 20 boards, 13-15 mm plywood, but you need moisture resistant (OSB is moisture resistant by default).

Next, the assembly of the walls began. The frame is completely knocked down: the lower frame, the racks, the top frame. In this form, it is installed exactly along the edge of the strapping beam, aligned, reinforced with safety struts, stops, and slopes. It is nailed through the flooring to the trim beam. The nails were 200*4 mm.

To assemble the frame, 100*50 mm boards were used, the distance between the posts was 600 mm, the rafters were installed with the same spacing. The rafter system was assembled from 150*40 mm.

Window and door openings are reinforced - two boards are nailed, which are nailed together in a checkerboard pattern every 20 cm. The load here is greater, so reinforcement is required. There is a gate at one end for loading/unloading large items. Therefore, in this wall (you can see in the photo) there are only corner posts and reinforced ones - for fastening the sashes.

Since the roof is pitched, rafter system simple: laid on the edge of the boards that are selected for the rafters. Their length is longer, since the roof overhang is necessary. It is usually 30-50 cm on each side. In this option, with a barn width of 3 meters, the length of the rafter legs (taking into account the slope) was 3840 mm.

They were nailed obliquely with nails - two on each side. It can be strengthened by installing corners: this will withstand even significant wind and snow loads.

The external walls were covered with OSB 9.5 mm thick.

The doors were installed and small steps were made.

The finishing touches were to install the wind board. The barn was then clapboarded and painted to match the rest of the buildings on the site. The barn was built with your own hands on a ready-made foundation in two weekends. Cladding and painting were done much later - almost a month later.

The final barn...beautiful

The unattractive foundation is covered with asbestos sheets cut to size. It turned out to be a beautiful barn.

Shed with a gable roof made of metal tiles

This barn was built alone. The construction is also frame: the cheapest way. In this case, the assembly method is “balloon” - gradual alignment of racks. It all starts the same way: first we made columns for the foundation. Only this time they are brick.

As you can see, there are studs built into the corner posts. Holes are drilled in the strapping beam and it is put on studs. They can be done not only in corners, but also on intermediate posts: it will hold on more firmly.

This barn has a small porch, so a cross beam is installed at the required distance. And the wall will support it. Columns were also pre-made for it.

The logs can also be attached with a notch. Then a recess is cut in the strapping beam in the shape of a log. In depth it should not exceed 30% of the thickness of the beam, so the joist is cut so that it is flush with the frame. This method is more labor-intensive.

Next, the frame was assembled: corner posts 100*100 mm, intermediate posts - 50*100 mm, the top frame and rafter system were assembled from the same board. The triangles at the top are reinforced with applied metal plates. Smaller plates were also attached at the junction of the upper frame beam and the racks. They were connected end-to-end without cutting, nailed on top and diagonally with nails. The plates reduced the likelihood of folding under lateral loads.

The frame was covered with OSB sheets - the most convenient size for construction. Subsequently, the walls will be finished with wood siding.

The sheathing, by the way, does not have to be made of plywood or OSB. You can attach the lining or board directly to the racks. But then, when assembling the frame, you need to make bevels: without rigidity slab material the construction will be flimsy. If you don’t set the slopes, you can swing them by hand.

After installing the braces, you can fill the board, lining, block house, imitation timber - the choice is yours.

For those who are concerned about the appearance of the building, here are some ideas on how to make a barn beautiful in video format.

Video about building wooden sheds

The barn turned out to be beautiful, but not cheap. But decent in size, strong and appearance no different from the house - fits into the composition. Everything is shown/described in detail, there is one violation: the waterproofing under the metal tiles is laid vertically. Even with good adhesion stripes, sooner or later the water will make a path for itself. Otherwise, everything is correct.

In this case, the barn is built with your own hands on what is probably the cheapest foundation: concrete is poured into old tires. The frame stands on these “pillars”. Naturally, they need to be set level reliable surface and they themselves must be on the same level. In terms of strength, the tacon base is not inferior to the best concrete blocks, and maybe even surpass them. Tires protruding from under the structure can be closed by making a step and subsequently placing flowers on it or using it for other needs. It will be even more practical.

Another video with a step-by-step illustration of the construction of a frame barn made of timber.

Drawings with dimensions

Several drawings to help you navigate the dimensions of the building. If necessary, adjust to your site or needs.

Shed with a pitched roof - drawing with a diagram of the arrangement of racks

Square barn - dimensions

A barn is one of the most important and useful outbuildings. In this building you can store various kinds garden supplies, barbecue, garden and home care products, tools. If you really want to, you can even install a toilet and a summer shower in the barn.

With proper preparation, building a shed will not take much time or money. There are several types of such outbuildings. Beginners are advised to give preference frame structures- they are the easiest to construct.

Instructions for arranging a frame shed will be given below. Read the instructions and get started.

When choosing a location for your shed, use personal preference. Some owners prefer it when the barn is located in some nook of the site. For others, it is more convenient when the barn is located next to the house.

It is most rational to build a shed on an area that is least suitable for growing garden and various types of agricultural crops. You can find a similar place in almost any area.

At the stage of choosing a place for arranging a shed, take into account the location of other zones of the land plot, take into account the dimensions of the building being erected and its external data. Try to ensure that the shed fits well into its surroundings and blends harmoniously with nearby buildings.

Set for work

1. Wood processing machine. You can do without a machine, but with it the work will pass faster and easier.
2. Electric jigsaw.
3. Hand-held circular saw.
4. Electric planer.
5. Screwdriver.
6. Electric drill.
7. Chainsaw.
8. Boards.
9. Logs.
10. Ruberoid.
11. Fastening elements.
12. Switches.
13. PVA glue.
14. Sockets.
15. Oilcloth.

Foundation

Any building structure needs a reliable and durable foundation that can support its weight.

Columnar, monolithic, strip and pile-screw type bases are suitable for arranging a shed. A columnar foundation is suitable in most cases, so experts recommend giving preference to this particular design.

Mark the area for the foundation. Any suitable pegs, cord and tape measure will help you with this.

Using a tape measure, measure the sides of the figure and its diagonals. The length of the elements must be the same.

Dig along the perimeter of the marked area, in the corners, as well as at intersection points internal partitions holes 500-700 mm deep (sometimes deeper, depending on the level of soil freezing) for installing pillars. The optimal spacing of the pillars is 1.2-1.5 m.

Arrange supports from asbestos pipes filled with reinforcement and concrete, or brick pillars– choose at your discretion.

Make sure that the pillars are installed evenly using a building level, fill the space around the pillars in the pits with a sand-gravel mixture to approximately 150 mm of the height of the recess, and fill the remaining space with concrete.

Leave the foundation to gain strength for several days.

Before backfilling and concreting, you can treat the support columns with a special mastic. It will help improve the waterproofing of the base and extend its service life.

Start assembling the frame of the future shed. Pre-soak everything wooden elements antiseptic. The best option is impregnation with color. This product is simply more convenient to use - untreated areas will be clearly visible.

Place a timber support on the dry base. Select the dimensions of the timber in accordance with the dimensions of the shed being built.

Base - foundation and perimeter made of timber

Lay the timber on support posts that have been previously covered waterproofing material(ruberoid). Fasten the columns with any in a suitable way at your own discretion.

Place it on the frame wooden boards 3-4 cm thick. At this stage of work, the main thing is to cut out parts of the boards near the vertical posts as carefully as possible.

Attach the boards to the floor joists “hidden”.

When determining the required number of support posts, take into account the presence of openings for installing double-glazed windows and doors, as well as the number of corners of the structure.

Place the beams strictly according to the building level. For leveling, use slope sticks. They will allow you to provide temporary fixation of the bars in the required position. Use nails to temporarily fasten elements together. Hammer them in approximately half the length so that in the future there will be no difficulties in dismantling the temporary supports.

Attach to bottom harness frame vertical support posts. Fixation is carried out using corners, self-tapping screws, and pins extending from the base.

The frame can also be built on brick supports. In this case, first, several rows of brickwork are built around the perimeter of the foundation, and then wooden vertical posts are installed on them.

Process three internal sides vertical beam electric plane. Bevel the sides facing the interior of the shed. Leave untreated only the sides that will later be sheathed with external boards.

Roofing and wall cladding

Attach the top portion of the shed frame to the exposed vertical support posts. Pre-prepare cuts in the timber according to the size of the posts. Fix the connections with corners and self-tapping screws.

Traditionally, barns are equipped with single-pitched roof structures. In this case, the length wooden racks on one side must exceed the length of the opposite supports.

This placement will further contribute to the effective removal of sedimentary moisture from the roof surface.

Arrange the rafters of the roof structure from boards 4-5 cm thick. The length of the rafters should be approximately 50 cm longer than the length of the frame.

In the places where the rafters meet the beams, make cuts first. Lay the rafters on the frame and secure with self-tapping screws. The installation pitch of the rafters is 40-50 cm.

Treat the frame with an antiseptic. Attach batten boards to the frame. Boards measuring 2.5x15 cm are optimal.

A plank roof requires a mandatory waterproofing layer. Traditionally, roofing felt is used for moisture insulation. If you plan to install a more beautiful finishing coating, use polyethylene film for waterproofing.

Choose the finishing coating at your discretion. You can lay metal tiles, corrugated sheets, euro slate, etc.

Lining is suitable for covering the walls of a building; you can also fix chipboard, boards and other similar materials. First, sheathe the front side of the shed, and then line the side and rear walls. Attach the boards without gaps.

If necessary, sand the outside of the boards with an electric planer. Typically, such treatment is only needed when covering walls with boards. Thanks to this, the material will become more attractive in appearance, and the rain will smooth surface delayed much less.

If you wish, you can paint the walls of the shed. Oil and water-based compositions are best suited for painting such buildings.

Carry out the interior arrangement of the finished shed at your discretion. If the building is intended to store various types of tools and accessories, install around the perimeter convenient shelving and shelves. Shelving allows you to make the most of the available space and easily access the things you need.

You can buy racks and shelves ready-made or make them yourself, for example, from boards, fiberboard, leftover furniture, etc.

At this point the barn is ready. All you have to do is connect the electrical wiring to it, if necessary, and install the required devices.

Good luck!

Video - How to build a barn with your own hands

Owners of suburban areas manage their land differently. Some people grow vegetables for the winter, while others build a small beautiful cottage and enjoys being outdoors. However, on any site, regardless of how it is used, a structure such as a barn will be in demand. It is in it that you can store gardening and gardening equipment, construction tools and everything that seems to be unnecessary, but it’s a pity to throw away. And if it is possible to expand the size of the building, you can get a whole utility block that will house a shower, toilet, room for tools, a workshop or a wood shed.

Manufacturers of prefabricated structures have long realized that the demand for ready-made sheds and sheds (housing units) will not decrease, but rather, on the contrary, will increase. The consequence of this was the appearance on the market of various collapsible models made of metal, plastic and wood. Having bought such a design for your dacha, you will easily acquire the necessary structure within a day without much effort.

Which shed to choose: wooden, plastic or iron? Each material has its pros and cons.

Wooden ones can be found on almost every second site. This is not surprising, because it is easiest to build a small house for equipment with your own hands from waste boards.

But when choosing a design, a prefabricated wooden shed or outbuilding is not the best option. The wood may be untreated and will require additional care: periodic treatment with an antiseptic and painting.

The plastic construction is more low maintenance and durable. The plastic shed is easy to assemble: using the instructions, you can assemble it in a few hours. Such structures have holes for ventilation and drainage. This structure will not rot or rust, and with careful use it can last for many years.

Metal sheds are also fairly quick to assemble. If you used it to make the structure high quality metal, which is also well processed and coated with anti-corrosion substances, then a prefabricated metal shed will last you longer than a plastic one.

In addition to prefabricated structures, ready-made utility units have also appeared on sale. They are usually based on either an iron container or welded metal frames. Their advantage is that they are delivered ready-made, and concrete columns will be enough for their installation.

Despite the abundance ready-made structures, their design is rather monotonous and is unlikely to decorate your suburban area.

If you want to have a shed or outbuilding that takes into account all your wishes and has a design that suits your site, build it yourself.

DIY barn

There are several options for constructing this structure with your own hands. The materials are mainly different, the procedure is similar.

Made of wood

The simplest barn to build is made of wood. To do this, you need:

1. Level the area where construction will take place.
2. The prepared site can be covered with a layer of crushed stone.
3. In the corners dig at least 60 cm wooden poles. Before this, it is advisable to wrap the bottom of each of them to the level of the ground surface with roofing material. The length of the front wall pillars should be 20-30 cm higher to ensure a sufficient slope for the roof.
4. Next you need to make the straps: top and bottom. Between them, depending on the height of the barn, 1-2 more bars are nailed on each wall.
5. Rafters are attached to the top frame, and the structure is wrapped with boards.
6. The roof is covered with roofing felt or corrugated sheeting is laid.
7. Then a plastic drain is attached, doors are installed, interior arrangements are carried out - the self-built shed is ready.

You can decorate the structure in different ways.

From corrugated sheets

If you want to build a shed on garden plot from more durable material, then corrugated sheeting can be used as cladding for the frame. This material appeared not so long ago, but has already become very popular. Among its advantages are lightness and strength, and it is easy to install and does not require additional maintenance during operation. Depending on the thickness of the sheet, there are several types of corrugated sheets.

1. To cover the shed, you should take a “wall” corrugated sheet, 4 mm thick.
2. Sheathing the frame should start from the very big wall. Self-tapping screws and a screwdriver are used to fasten corrugated sheets.
3. It should be remembered that for one square meter It is not recommended to use more than six self-tapping screws. During installation, corrugated sheets are laid overlapping.

At first glance it may seem that decorating similar structure hardly possible. However, using metal decorative profiled sheets, you can come up with an unusual design.

By combining different types of corrugated sheeting, you can create a beautiful and original building with your own hands. Flowers and ornamental plants will help complement the design of a self-built barn and decorate it.

We are building a utility block on a summer cottage

If on suburban area There is no house yet or its construction is underway, it is worth thinking about building a more substantial structure, adding a toilet, shower, utility room, and possibly a rest room.

The frame utility block can be used after the construction of the house. There will be an opportunity to change clothes and take a shower after working in the garden. Also, during agricultural work it is much more convenient to use outdoor toilet so as not to bring sand and dirt into the house. Building a cabin with your own hands is a more serious matter.

Collapsible shed project

Before starting construction, you need to come up with a project and make a drawing of the future building.

The photo below shows examples of what a drawing of a change house might look like.

You can supplement the project with the necessary premises.

Selecting a location

Having come up with a plan and sketched out a drawing, you can move on to the next stage - choosing a place for construction. If the design of the cabin includes a toilet and shower, then when choosing a place for utility room you will need to be guided by the standards of SNiP 30-02-97. These standards provide for the placement of buildings of this type no closer than 4 meters to the border of the site and 12 meters to the nearest building. After studying the site plan, choose the most optimal place to place the structure. It may turn out that the drawn up project does not quite fit the chosen location, then adjust the plan, leaving all the necessary premises in it.

On this preparatory work completed, construction can begin.

Foundation

1. Before building the foundation, we build a cesspool for the toilet.
2. In the place where the shower will be located, it is also necessary to provide a drain for water.
3. Next, we pour the foundation for the shed. If, after building a house, there are unused remains of bricks on the site, they can be added to the pouring mortar. This will reduce the cost of the foundation and allow you to usefully dispose of construction waste.
4. Next we build a wooden frame. To do this, you will need beams with a cross section of 100x100 mm. The stages of constructing the frame are the same as when building a barn.
5. For cladding, you can use wood, metal sheets or other material.
6. Cover the roof and secure it plastic drain. At this point, the external arrangement can be considered complete.
7. Next, using the project, we separate the shower, toilet and other rooms with partitions. They can be made from plasterboard and covered with clapboard made of wood or plastic.
8. To complete the arrangement of the utility unit, you can install a special seat in the toilet, and in the shower - plastic pallet and shelves for soap and shampoo.
9. To provide a shower hot water, metal containers are usually installed on the roof, but if necessary, you can get by with a plastic barrel.
10. You should also think about how to provide ventilation to the toilet. To do this, you can make holes in the roof, in the floor and install a plastic ventilation riser. You can create a modern and comfortable toilet using a toilet with running water.

In order for a self-built utility block to have a finished look, it is necessary to decorate it. A nearby flower bed or flowering ornamental shrub can help with this.