How to build a pantograph on wood with your own hands: practical advice. Drawings, measurements and markings Homemade wood pantograph drawing
A pantograph is a device for manual mechanical redrawing of an image with great accuracy on an enlarged or reduced scale. A pantograph can be of great help in your work. home master. The pantograph uses the principle of a parallelogram mechanism, which makes it possible, with one rigidly fixed end, to two points of the mechanism to perform exactly the same movements. Depending on the size
The selected image scale may be different. A pantograph of sufficient quality can be made by hand, provided that the exact dimensions of all the details shown in Fig. 1. Four duralumin rulers 4-5 mm thick (or rulers made of organic glass 5-6 mm thick), of which three are long and one is short. Holes are drilled in them in a certain order for fixing the axles. Brass bushings are inserted into the holes of the rulers.
The axes of the pantograph mechanism have different design: two central axes are a stud with a hat, the axes for attaching the stylus (copier) and the follower rod are made like a device for clamping the stylus in the leg of a compass. Use a plastic tip as a follower rod, as it does not damage the original and provides a soft glide. One axis (extreme) with a heel, on which the pantograph mechanism rests, and, finally, an axis that fixes the entire mechanism on the base boss. All axes have an annular groove in the upper part for fixing the wire pin-clamp.
Rice. 1. Pantograph
Metal boss. From below, three stings (for example, gramophone needles) are embedded in the boss, making it easy to fix the base on the drawing board. The most responsible operation is the marking and drilling of holes in the rulers. To ensure high accuracy and alignment of the holes, it is enough to mark the holes on one ruler, put all the rulers in a bag and drill holes in all the rulers at one time using the marked ruler. The diameter of the holes should be such that the bushings fit tightly into them, with a slight interference.
The bushings are machined from brass according to the dimensions indicated in fig. 1. Axles - steel. The length of the axles is in direct proportion to the length of the sleeve. Wire pins-clamps are bent from steel wire with a diameter of 1-1.2 mm. The base boss can be made of aluminum or organic glass 40 mm thick. In the lower plane of the boss, three needles are inserted into the blind holes so that their tip protrudes 2-3 mm. When assembling and fitting pantograph parts, it is necessary to achieve ease of movement of all links of the mechanism. The final operation is marking the holes on the ruler, according to which it will be easy to choose the scale of enlargement (reduction) of the copy.
Drawing is the language of technology. According to the drawings, an engineer, technician, skilled worker understands the structure of any mechanism; according to the drawings, simple and complex parts of each machine are made. Members of the "Skilled Hands" circle are not yet involved in drawing at school. They will start drawing only in the 6th grade at geometry lessons, and they will get acquainted with technical drawing later - starting from the 7th grade. However, in the circle they will often have to use simplified drawings and technical drawings (sketches) of various products. Many such drawings and drawings are printed in this book. This is why circle members need to learn how to read simplified drawings and understand conventions on them.
How to read blueprints
In any drawing, bold, contour lines indicate the contours of the object. Sometimes there are dashed lines in the drawing - dotted, consisting of individual dashes. Such lines indicate the contours of an object that are not visible when viewed from the outside or from any one side, since they are hidden inside the object or closed from the eyes, for example, by its front wall.
The thinnest lines in a drawing are called dimensional: they show the dimensions of the item. There are arrows at the ends of such a line. They are connected by dotted lines with the outline of the object. The dimension line in the middle is usually broken, and a number is put in its break. According to the drawing rules, all dimensions in the drawings are indicated in millimeters, therefore, letter designations of measures are not affixed next to the numbers. The number on the dimension line shows how many millimeters from the tip of one arrow to the tip of the other.
Very small distances are indicated without a dimension line, and sometimes with two arrows with a number between them. Next to the designation of the diameter (thickness) of a round rod or hole, they often put an icon similar to the letter “F”: a circle crossed out with an oblique line. This icon indicates that the drawing shows a round object.
Rice. 61. Designations on drawings and sketches. |
Sometimes, especially for paper and cardboard products, instead of a drawing of the finished thing, a scan of it is given. Such a scan according to the indicated dimensions is drawn on paper or cardboard, then cut out and folded. The places of the folds on the development are also shown by dotted lines - the same as the invisible contours of objects in the drawings.
Near general view an object in a drawing or drawing often depicts separate parts (details) of it in an enlarged view. Where are these parts located? general drawing, indicate in two ways: arrows and the same letters or numbers.
Letters (in alphabetical order) or ordinal numbers sometimes indicate in what order it is necessary to assemble a product from individual parts or process some part. In order not to confuse these numbers with size designations, they are usually put in circles.
Very long parts that cannot be placed on a scale in a drawing or drawing are drawn torn off at one end or torn in the middle. The dimensions are given in full.
In the drawing of products, dimensions are not always indicated, often they are given only in the text of the description. In this case, abbreviated designations of sizes are used. For example, the designation 40 × 15 mm means that the part is 40 mm long and 15 mm wide. The designation 40×15×10 mm indicates that three measurements are given: length, width and height (thickness). If they want to indicate the width and thickness of the rail (that is, its dimensions in section), they write, for example, like this: a rail with a section of 8 × 5 mm.
Abbreviated names of measures in product descriptions are used the same as in school textbooks: m - meter, dtsm - decimeter, cm - centimeter, mm - millimeter, kg - kilogram, g - gram.
Enlargement of drawings and drawings
Drawings and drawings are printed in books small size. Often they have to be redrawn in full (natural) size. Straight lines of the right size young technician It's easy to draw a line. It is much more difficult to accurately depict complex sinuous contours in an enlarged view. In these cases, the drawings are given on the grid.
To enlarge the drawing, it is necessary to draw as many large squares on a sheet of paper as there are small ones in the figure. The required dimensions of the squares are indicated in the text of the description. A drawing is applied to these squares. The grid breaks it down into short lines that are much easier to draw correctly by referring to the drawing.
You can also enlarge drawings and drawings using epidiascope. The self-made epidiascope described in this book on the page is quite suitable for this. The drawing or drawing to be enlarged is placed in the epidiascope and projected onto a sheet of clean paper, fastened with buttons on a board or on a sheet of plywood. The screen and the epidiascope are set so that the desired magnification is obtained, and the image is clear.
The contours of the image are outlined on paper with a pencil - an enlarged drawing is obtained, in which all the details are accurately conveyed.
Finally, drawings and drawings can be enlarged or reduced in another way - using a special device called a pantograph.
Homemade pantograph
For a pantograph, four planks are cut out of plywood with a length of 610 millimeters and a width of 12 millimeters. The width of the slats can be increased or decreased, their thickness does not matter. But the narrower and thinner the strips are made, the more convenient it is to use the pantograph. On each bar, 11 holes are drilled at such a distance from each other, as indicated in Figure 64. All holes should be of the same diameter - approximately 4 millimeters. Holes, except for the two extreme ones, are marked with numbers: 1.5; 2; 3; four; 5; 6; 7; eight; 10. These numbers indicate how many times the pattern is enlarged or reduced. Let's agree that "the end of the bar, where the number 10 is, will be considered the lower one, and the opposite end - the upper one. The distance between the extreme holes is 600 millimeters.
Knife out wooden lath or a suitable stick, cut out five pins of such a size that they fit into the holes of the planks and can fasten two planks superimposed on each other. Three pins are made with semicircular ends, the fourth with pointed ends, and a gramophone needle is inserted into the end of the fifth with the point down.
A square is assembled from two planks. A pin with a gramophone needle is inserted into the lower end of the first bar, and a piece of pencil with a pointed soft lead is inserted into the upper end of the second bar. The free ends of both strips are superimposed on each other and connected with a pin to a semicircular end. To make the pencil better pressed against the paper, the end of the rail near it is made heavier: a metal (preferably lead) plate is attached here.
A second square is assembled from the other two strips, connecting the lower end of one strip with the upper end of the other with a pointed pin. The opposite ends of these strips remain free.
The remaining pins connect both squares together. This is done before using the pantograph for work. Suppose you want to enlarge some figure four times. Having parted the free ends of the squares, they are superimposed on each other so that the slats cross in those places where the holes with the number "4" are located. The pins are inserted into these holes. If the drawing needs to be doubled, then the squares are connected with pins inserted into the holes "2", etc.
All pins clean well, make them smooth. They should fit tightly into the hole, but not too tight, so that the pantograph bars can freely rotate around the pin. The pantograph is easy to use.
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Rice. 64. Pantograph. |
On a piece of plywood or on a smooth board, they put a drawing that they want to enlarge, and next to it is a sheet of clean paper. A pantograph is placed on top. To fix it, the needle of one of the pins is stuck into the board. A pointed pin is set in the figure, and a pencil is placed on a sheet of clean paper. A sharp pin is driven along the contours of a drawing or drawing. The pantograph bars move, and the pencil draws the same contours on paper, but in an enlarged form. The rail with a pencil is lightly held with the left hand, without preventing it from moving.
With the help of a pantograph, on the contrary, you can reduce a large pattern. To do this, swap the sharp pin and pencil. How are the holes on the planks marked?
The length of the bar between the two extreme pin holes is 600 millimeters (the remaining 10 millimeters at the ends of the bar are not taken into account). By dividing 600 millimeters by the number indicating the degree of increase, the distance in millimeters of the corresponding hole from the lower end of the bar is obtained. For example, to increase three times the hole must be located at a distance of 200 millimeters from the extreme hole of the lower end (600: 3 = 200) or at a distance of 400 millimeters from the upper end.
Using this simple calculation, the same pantograph can be adapted to other magnifications. For example, to increase two and a half times, you need to drill additional hole at a distance of 240 millimeters from the extreme hole of the lower end of the bar (600: 2.5 = 240), and for a ninefold increase - at a distance of 66.5 millimeters (600: 9 = approximately 66.5).
The manufacture of a pantograph will be simplified if it is adapted for a few magnifications: for example, only two and a half and ten times. Holes in this case will have to be drilled less.
The pantograph is useful when, for example, you have to enlarge patterns for sawing.
The simplest measurements
In the manufacture of various things, the members of the circle must firmly grasp the basic rule that ensures accurate and accurate work: do nothing by eye. Before cutting out any part of a product from any material - be it paper, cardboard, plywood or tin, it is necessary to mark this part on it according to the drawing, drawing or description. Be sure to check the cut part: whether it exactly corresponds to the required dimensions. One detail irregular shape or incorrect dimensions can ruin the entire product.
And in order to properly mark the material and check the dimensions of the parts, you need to learn how to use the simplest measuring tools. Members of the circle have already met some of them at the lessons at school.
All pioneers know scale bar with divisions into centimeters and millimeters. To measure on a ruler on a sheet of paper or on a board, for example, 10 centimeters, you need to make two marks: against the “0” division and against the “10” division. The distance between these two marks will be equal to 10 centimeters. Guys sometimes measure differently: from division “1” to “10”. The result, of course, is wrong. Guys sometimes make other mistakes: when measuring, for example, the width of a board, the ruler is placed not perpendicular to its edge (that is, exactly across the board), but obliquely. As a result, the measured width is larger than the actual one. The divisions of the ruler are sometimes looked at incorrectly, directing the gaze not at a right angle, but from the side. And in this case the result is distorted.
The most accurate measurement is obtained when the scale ruler is not placed on a board or on a sheet of paper, but placed on an edge, divisions down. With this position of the ruler, it is easy to make a mark exactly on the division.
A new measuring tool for many guys will be pocket tape measure with a measuring tape of 1 meter. The divisions on the tape measure are the same as on the scale ruler, so the guys will learn how to use it quickly. A tape measure is needed if you want to measure a length of up to one meter, because a regular ruler is designed for only 35-40 centimeters. The tape measure can be replaced with a folding ruler or the so-called centimeter - a measuring tape used in sewing.
Members of the circle should learn to use compass not only for drawing circles, but also for measurements. The compass is convenient in cases where the ruler cannot be used for some reason: for example, it does not fit inside the homemade product. The legs of the compass are set at two points, the distance between which they want to measure, then, without changing the solution of the compass, they apply the legs to the scale ruler and find out the distance. It is also convenient to compare the size of several parts with a compass, which should be the same.
Members of the circle will not yet use special tools for measuring the diameters of round rods or holes - calipers, calipers, calipers, micrometers. It will be enough for them to measure the diameters with a ruler or a compass. Auxiliary measuring instruments when measuring round holes can also be coins:
the diameter of a 20 kopeck coin is 22 mm, the diameter of a 15 kopeck coin is 20 mm, the diameter of a 10 kopeck coin is 17.5 mm, the diameter of a 5 kopeck coin is 25.5 mm.
It is also useful for members of the circle to remember that the diameter of an ordinary pencil is 7 or 8 millimeters.
Sometimes product descriptions indicate what diameter the wire should be taken. The diameter of a thin wire is calculated as follows: on a round pencil tightly, coil to coil, a piece of wire is wound; measure the length of the resulting spiral with a ruler and divide it by the number of turns. For example, if 40 turns of wire fit at a distance of 2 centimeters, then its diameter is 0.5 millimeters (20 mm: 40 \u003d 0.5 mm).
The length of any circle is easy to measure with a cord or thread. Then the lace or thread is stretched in divisions scale bar and find out the circumference in centimeters.
To prepare paste and glue, as well as in other cases in a mug, you will sometimes need to measure some amount of water and weigh out some fractions of dry glue, flour, etc. In this case, high measurement accuracy is not needed, so you can get by with the simplest means.
The amount and weight of water is measured with a beaker (1 cubic centimeter of water weighs 1 gram) or available utensils. A faceted tea glass holds 200 grams (or cubic centimeters) of water, a smooth, thin-walled glass holds 250 grams, a tablespoon holds 12 to 15 grams, and a teaspoon holds 3 to 4 grams.
A small amount of dry matter can be weighed on homemade scales (see their description on page 149), and coins can be used as weights:
A 5-kopeck coin weighs 5 grams,
A 3-kopeck coin weighs 3 grams,
A 2-kopeck coin weighs 2 grams,
a penny coin weighs 1 gram.
For accurate weighing, if necessary, with the permission of the teacher, you can use the scales available in the physics and chemistry classrooms of the school.
Material marking
They mark the material in all cases when they want to cut out some part from it according to the drawing, or at least separate (cut off, saw off) a piece of the desired size. For members of the "Skilled Hands" circle, who do not yet have sufficient experience in working with tools, it is especially important to learn to saw and cut the material exactly along the drawn lines.
Paper, cardboard, plywood, bars and boards are marked with a soft black pencil. Suitable for this purpose, for example, a school pencil "Pioneer" or even softer. A pencil with hard graphite will leave an indented mark on the material, which is sometimes undesirable. The trace of an indelible pencil is difficult to clean off, it dissolves in liquids and stains the material. Therefore, a chemical pencil for marking is never used. Colored pencils are also inconvenient: they have thick leads that leave wide lines.
When translating drawings for cutting on plywood, on the contrary, it is better to take a hard pencil. It is easier to sharpen it, it is more convenient for them to outline the thin lines of the drawing, the trace of a hard pencil on carbon paper is clear.
When marking wooden block or boards (but not plywood) instead of a pencil, you can use an awl.
Tin and other metals in sheets are marked with a metal scriber, which can be replaced with a sharp nail, an awl, a piece of a knitting needle and another pointed rod. Any scriber leaves a clear mark on the surface of the tin.
Straight lines are marked with a ruler. First, the ruler is placed on the material with an edge, the extreme points are marked with a pencil. Then the ruler is laid flat and a line is drawn along it between the marked points. The pencil is pressed against the edge of the ruler and held almost perpendicular, with a very slight slope. They also work with a scriber.
direct line to long board can be outlined in the way that carpenters use. A thin lace is rubbed with chalk. One end of it is fixed on the board, for example, with an awl. The other end, pulled tight, is held by hand. With the fingers of the other hand of the cast, the lace is pulled up and immediately released. He strikes the board and leaves a clear chalk line on it. It is more convenient to make such markings together, holding both ends of the cord in your hands. Instead of chalk, you can rub it with a piece of charcoal.
When drawing a marking line along a board, a sheet of paper or plywood, it is necessary to ensure that the line does not run obliquely, but strictly parallel or perpendicular to one of the edges of the board or sheet. You can check if the line is lying correctly by measuring the distance to the parallel edge at both ends of the line.
If it is necessary to cut a rectangle out of some material, then first one of its sides is drawn along the ruler - a vertical or horizontal line. Then, having attached a triangle to this line with one of the legs, a perpendicular line is drawn along the second leg. All right angles marking must be checked with a square. This is especially important when a sweep is being laid out. cardboard box or geometric figure. The slightest mistake will cause the box to skew.
Sharp and obtuse angles are marked by protractor.
A straight line is drawn along the ruler and a point is marked on it from where they want to draw an oblique line to form an angle. The protractor is applied so that the middle of its lower edge lies on the intended point. A second point is placed at the upper arc of the protractor - at the division corresponding to the marked angle. After that, the protractor is removed, and a straight line is drawn between the marked points, continuing it to the required length.
In a figure or drawing, the angle value is sometimes not indicated by numbers. You can measure it with the same protractor.
Curved lines are drawn along curved rails. A thin rail is bent according to the drawing and, in this form, is lightly fixed with two or three nails or pins on the material to be marked. Draw a line along the rail with a pencil.
You can mark curved lines differently: make a grid on paper in life size a drawing and translate it through carbon paper onto a tree - just like drawings are translated for sawing. Finished parts are then applied to the same drawing for verification.
The circles are drawn with a compass. If you need to draw a large circle and the size of the compass is insufficient, use the homemade circle cutter described on the page. In this case, instead of a knife, insert the tip of a pencil or an awl into the hole of the circle cutter. There is an even simpler way to mark large circles on plywood: a nail is hammered in the center, a thread is tied to it (do not tighten it tightly), and a pencil is attached to the other end of it. The length of the thread is taken equal to the radius of the circle. The thread is pulled and a circle is drawn.
We must teach the children to use the compass in other cases. For example, with the help of a compass it is easy to divide in half, exactly in the middle, a straight line. To do this, it is enough to draw two arcs of the same radius from the extreme points - more than half the line. The intersection points of the arcs are connected along the ruler by a straight vertical line. It will pass perpendicular to the horizontal line and divide it into two equal parts.
Sometimes you need to cut out several identical figures from cardboard, plywood or tin. For this, it is best to cut out a pattern from cardboard - a template - of such a figure, and then apply it to the material and trace it with a pencil. All figures will be the same.
It is necessary to mark up any material economically so that as little waste as possible is obtained and work is facilitated. For example, cutting a small rectangle from a sheet of cardboard or plywood should be in the corner of this sheet, where two cuts are enough, and not in the middle, where three or four cuts will need to be made and unnecessary strips of cardboard may remain.
Each manufactured part must be checked: whether it corresponds to the drawing in shape and size, whether its corners are cut correctly, whether it fits snugly against other parts, etc. For verification, they use the same measuring and marking tools: ruler, squares, compasses.
Only after a thorough check of all the details are they put together to get the intended thing.
Nowadays, it often becomes necessary to create a copy of an object. For these purposes, for modern enterprises special copying machines are used, the shape of which corresponds to the desired sample as much as possible. Such milling copiers make it possible to produce parts of various complexity and shape. In this case, the equipment must process and manufacture the required element in a short time.
Factory or homemade machine?
The modern market offers to purchase milling and copying machines different levels complexity and design. But it is not always possible to make such a purchase, and the cost of such woodworking equipment is quite tangible. That is why in craftsmen often the question arises about a home-made milling and copying machine, the manufacture of which, compared with self assembly is less costly. Now, if you have the appropriate drawings, materials and skills, such equipment can be made with your own hands.
It is clear that this type homemade technology in terms of its parameters and ease of use, it cannot compete with factory-made equipment. But with reliable performance with a do-it-yourself machine, you can make fairly high-quality copies of certain objects from wood.
It should immediately be noted that it is almost impossible to install copier equipment at the factory, since this implies a radical re-equipment of the entire machine.
That's why do it yourself copy machine woodworking is possible only “from scratch”, using the systems of traction, an electric motor and a special cartridge in which the cutter that processes the workpiece will be held.
What is a copy milling machine made of?
designs homemade equipment there is quite a lot of such an appointment in our time, depending on the drawing used and the tasks that will be performed on this technique. A typical wood copier consists of the following basic elements:
- suitable work surface;
- carrier frame;
- device for installing a milling cutter.
The milling head must be equipped with a transmission mechanism with an electric motor, which can provide several speeds for a home-made wood milling and copying machine.
A large number of craftsmen who made such a machine according to the drawings with their own hands note that as a result of copying, the finished part has a sufficient number of flaws. They appear during a change in the direction of the cutter, tremors and vibrations of the entire structure. In addition, inconsistencies also occur due to the curvature of the workpiece, which occurs when the internal stress increases as a result of the production of a wooden workpiece.
Eliminate the possibility of certain defects in the manufacturing process homemade machine practically unrealistic. In order to minimize them, it is recommended to produce with your own hands not universal, but narrow-profile machines, on which it will be possible to manufacture and copy the details of one certain type.
Features of self-creation of a copier
Thus, when making do-it-yourself copy-milling machines, it is necessary to optimize for the processing of specific parts that will be produced on it. Otherwise, there may be various side effects which are often very difficult to fix.
Enough an important factor, which must be taken into account when making a copier machine with one's own hand, is its dimensions and total weight. The larger products will be processed on it, the more massive the whole structure should be. This will enable the equipment to absorb vibrations that occur during the operation of the cutter. The guide axles must be made so that they have a significant margin of safety, without bending under increased loads.
The optimal properties of a copy-milling machine for wood when making it yourself can be selected empirically, as it depends on the design of the equipment and the purposes for which it will be operated.
What should be considered when designing a machine?
When creating a drawing of a wood copying machine and constructing it, everything must be done depending on the parts that will be made on it. So, in order to mill long workpieces or perform engraving work, absolutely different way fixing workpieces and type of desktop.
Also, the power of the electric motor required for high-quality work, which ensures the rotation of the cutter, also depends on the parts manufactured and copied on the machine. But in most cases, a 150-220 W DC motor is enough to process wood parts.
To ensure maximum accuracy in copying parts, the device holding the router and copying probe must be as firmly fixed to each other as possible. At the same time, their planes, together with the height above working surface must match exactly.
The created rigid structure must be installed on the table surface in such a way that it can move in the horizontal and vertical planes.
Thus, it is not very difficult to independently make a copy machine for the manufacture of various wood parts, so many can cope with such work. But you need to remember that in the case of making such equipment with your own hands, it is only suitable for the production of products of a certain type. Otherwise, only modern universal factory-made equipment will do.
Do it for school
Pantograph
This simple drawing tool can be used to redraw plans, drawings, geographical maps or decorative elements, increasing or decreasing their scale by 1.5, 2 and 3 times.
The device is a parallelogram formed by four planks - two long and two short from well-planed wood. hard rock(oak, beech or birch). The planks are connected to each other with screws and nuts. Pay attention to the screw (view B) - it unusual look. With its lower rounded head, it rests on the surface of the table, thus unloading node A, with which the pantograph is attached to the lid.
If the device is used to obtain a copy on an enlarged scale, a bypass pin is fixed in node B - it can be a blunt nail clamped into a collet pencil, and a regular pencil, felt-tip pen or ballpoint pen is fixed in node C. Outlining the lines of the original with a pin, we will get a copy of the specified magnification scale on paper. To obtain a copy in a reduced form, the bypass pin and the writing instrument are interchanged. To select the scale, holes are provided in the long and short bars and a numerical designation, a reduction or increase ratio is entered.
Clamping pins are easiest to make from a piece of rubber in the form of flat washers. The holes in the washers should be cut so that the collet pencil and writing instrument fit snugly into it.
A clamp is provided for attaching the device to the desktop. It must be made of a steel plate 1.5 mm thick. To prevent the clamp from scratching the table top, cut a 2 mm thick rubber gasket under it. A hole is provided on the upper plane of the clamp, where the axis of the pantograph is inserted. As you can see, there is no bearing here. Therefore, to reduce friction between parts, install washers.
A. SALNIKOV
In the figure, the numbers indicate: 1 - clamp, 2 - rubber gasket, 3 - table cover, 4 - long lpank, 5 - short bar and 6 - rubber clamps.
When milling, apply copiers, i.e., pantographs with a high cost. You can assemble a pantograph for a router with your own hands.
Making a pantograph
The milling cutter, equipped with a pantograph, allows you to repeat the parallel lines of the workpiece in the process. This procedure facilitates the manufacture of shaped parts, various ornaments and patterns. In addition, with the help of a pantograph, you can make various inscriptions on metal and wooden plates.
Homemade pantograph it is not difficult to do, for this you only need 4 ruler levers. Three of these levers should be long, and one short. In addition, they will need to make several holes in order to mount the axles.
The axles will be used to install the mechanism and attach the rod. The axial mechanism is a hairpin, at the end of which there is a cap. The copy part should resemble the compass element in which the stylus is attached. Such a core part can be made from the tip of a plastic knitting needle. Such a tip will glide gently during operation and will not spoil the original part.
You will also need an axis on which the entire mechanical part of the device will rest. It should be equipped with a heel that acts as a stop. The last or extreme guide will act as a fastener for the entire structure using a special boss.
Such a boss should be made of an aluminum cylinder. In its lower part, you need to fix 3 stings, which can be made from small furniture nails. With the help of such nails, the base will be fixed on the processed plate.
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Completion of work
The next step is to assemble the copy mechanism for the router. To do this, prepare the following components:
- 4 rulers;
- 8 brass bushings.
Rulers should be made of plexiglass or plastic, their thickness is 4-5 mm. Plexiglas can also be used as a material for the manufacture of rulers. Next, the marking of these linear parts is performed. This process must be approached very carefully, since the slightest error in dimensions can lead to incorrect operation of the pantograph.
Holes are drilled on the markings. In this case, their alignment must be observed. To achieve this, you need to put all the rulers together and simultaneously drill holes in them.
Then, brass bushings must be inserted into the prepared holes. When installing them, a slight tightness should be observed: this will help the bushings to hold tighter in the rulers. In order to fix the axial parts in the bushings, it is necessary to make special clamps. They can be made from hardened steel wire, the diameter of which should be 1-1.5 mm.
Then the assembly of the boss is performed. Blind holes are made in its lower part, which can be punched with a core. The nails must be installed in such a way that they protrude from the body of the boss by 2-3 mm.
Having prepared all the necessary parts of the pantograph, they are assembled.
During this process, care must be taken to ensure that all moving parts move smoothly and easily.
In this case, all prepared holes should be marked. According to this marking, you can scale the manufactured copy of the part.
