How to connect the outlet correctly - detailed instructions. Do-it-yourself step-by-step connection of the socket. Location of wires in the socket

Grounded outlets are not a fad or a luxury. This is an essential item for any modern wiring. Take care of their quality and correct installation Every self-respecting owner is obliged.

But you can install sockets yourself only if you are confident in your own abilities. This work is not difficult, but it requires precision - mistakes can lead to electric shock.

If you have any doubts when installing an outlet and checking it, it is better to contact a professional electrician.

Video with detailed instructions for installing a grounded outlet

is an extremely responsible matter, requiring certain knowledge and experience in performing such work. Therefore, such large-scale events are most often entrusted to electrical specialists. But some problems that arise, for example, when carrying out cosmetic repairs or simply during the operation of electrical equipment, it is possible to solve on our own. Such accessible operations include connecting landline lighting fixtures, installation of new or replacement of faulty sockets and switches.

In this publication, we will focus our attention on sockets - they are the ones we deal with most often. Saturation of everyday life with useful things electrical appliances is constantly growing, and new technology often requires new connection points. In addition, any socket does not last forever, it is designed for a certain amount plug connections. And sooner or later it exhausts its resource, begins to spark, become loose, and sometimes completely crumbles into dust. And simply when carrying out cosmetic repairs, owners often want to replace all sockets and switches with new ones that best suit the style of the chosen finish.

So, he is considering the question of how to connect the outlet on his own, without calling a technician.

Briefly about the types and design of sockets

For a person who will be installing an outlet for the first time, it would be logical to first understand how it works. Its structure is not particularly complex, but nevertheless.

Let's look at it in the diagram. True, it does not reflect the entire variety of designs of modern sockets, but the principle of the device is approximately the same.

The main role is played by the housing (item 1), which contains contact groups and terminals, as well as devices for fixing the socket in the socket box or directly on the wall surface. The body is made of dielectric material - most often it is plastic, but it can also be ceramic. Sockets with ceramic cases are somewhat more expensive and are considered to be of higher quality. However, they require careful handling during installation - if the socket is accidentally dropped or, for example, the fastening screws are overtightened, the housing may break and cannot be repaired.

On the front side, the socket is closed with a plastic cover (pos. 2). The cover has a shaped groove with socket holes into which the pin contacts of the plug enter. The lid can be solid or collapsible - often it has an additional decorative frame (item 3). When installed correctly, this frame will be pressed tightly against the wall and will completely cover the location where the outlet is installed. The cover is attached to the body using a screw (item 4). There may be several screws - for example, on double or triple sockets. As a rule, the screws are equipped with a simple stopper on the inside, so that when unscrewed they do not fall out of their sockets.

The housing contains a contact group. Since we will only consider single-phase 220 V sockets, there are two such contacts - for connecting zero and phase (position 5). The most commonly used are petal (plate) contacts. Spring ones are considered more reliable for switching and durable, but they are now rarely found on sale.

To connect to the contacts of the wiring suitable for the socket, each of them is equipped with a terminal (item 6). There are many types of terminals, but they can be roughly divided into two categories.

— In one (predominant) fixation of the conductor is ensured by tightening the screw. Screw head in different models sockets, by the way, can be located in different ways - from the back, from the front, from the side or from top to bottom.

Many sockets today are equipped with additional contacts for connecting to the ground loop. Most often in our area there are models with two grounding curved petal contacts, located at the top and bottom, respectively (item 7). The metal plate of this PE contact also has its own terminal (pos. 8) for connecting the wire.

To secure the socket in the socket box, two types of clamps can be used simultaneously or separately.

— Firstly, these are special clamping feet that have pointed serrated edges (item 9). Each of these tabs is equipped with a screw (item 10), when tightened, it moves to the side and firmly rests against the body of the socket box.

— Secondly, most modern socket boxes also provide for fastening the socket with a screw (self-tapping screw). For these fasteners there are special eyes (item 11) with a characteristic arc-shaped shape - this makes it possible to slightly correct the position of the socket.

By the way, what was shown above is perhaps not the most typical example of a socket. The overwhelming number modern models They are also equipped with a metal support (item 12) - a special plate that significantly simplifies the installation process.

When installed, this support fits perfectly into the plane of the wall, that is, it is impossible to make a mistake with the depth of placement of the socket body. The plate itself will then be completely hidden by a decorative cover.

The support is always provided with the above-mentioned eyes for screw fastening to the socket box. In addition, there may also be holes in the corners (pos. 13). They are very useful when the socket is installed on a rigid base without a socket at all. For example, on a wall covered with clapboard or other panels, provided that under the finishing there is a small space sufficient in depth for the socket housing. In this case, a window of the required size is simply cut out, and the socket itself is attached to the finishing surface through a caliper with four self-tapping screws. It couldn't be simpler!

As mentioned above, sockets can be single or even triple, that is, designed to connect several electrical appliances at once. Another approach is when several single sockets connected in parallel are installed for these purposes.

A few words about the types of sockets.

• In the recent past, type “C” prevailed - only two contacts, zero and phase. It is still widely used today - it is quite suitable for electrical appliances of small and medium power that do not require mandatory grounding.

This type, by the way, is also not very homogeneous. Surely many have encountered that such sockets of the old “Soviet” type do not fit the plugs of many electrical appliances, since the pins have a larger diameter than the holes. However, now, it seems, the “Soviet” type is no longer available for sale, so the problem becomes insignificant.

• Type “F” has the same two sockets for the plug pins, but is also equipped with grounding contacts. It was this type that was shown in the diagram when the socket design was considered.

Such sockets dominate in our time, as human life is becoming increasingly saturated various equipment, which requires grounding for safe operation. However, such an outlet allows you to connect other electrical appliances without any problems. With the exception, perhaps, of only old forks with a round body rim that does not have figured cutouts.

• It is permissible in our conditions to install “E” type sockets. The sockets for phase and neutral do not differ from the “F” type, but the grounding contact has the shape of a protruding pin.

Such sockets are not particularly popular among us. But if you pay attention to the design of the plugs of most modern electrical appliances, you will notice that it is suitable for both types, “F” and “E” - it has a special hole with a contact for the pin to enter. But another plug obviously won’t work, that is, the socket is not very versatile. In addition, turning the plug 180 degrees in the socket is completely eliminated, and this sometimes becomes useful when using electrical appliances.

Of course, there are many more types of sockets. Only three have been highlighted here, since they are the ones used in Russian conditions more often.

Sockets also differ in the degree (class) of protection of the housing. This indicator is indicated by the IP index and a two-digit number. The first number indicates the class of protection against penetration of solids and dust, the second – about protection from the effects of water.

— For ordinary premises of a house or apartment, class IP22 or IP33 is quite sufficient. If the socket is planned to be installed in a children's room, then it is better to purchase a model with a class of at least IP43. A special feature of such products is the presence of a cover and special curtains that cover the sockets for the plug pins when the socket is not in use. This will make it difficult for a curious young “researcher” to access live contacts.

- But for bathrooms, showers, and kitchens, models with a class of at least IP44 are purchased - here the humidity is high, and there is a very high probability of water splashes hitting the socket.

— IP44 class is also suitable for installation in an unheated basement.

— An even higher class is needed if the socket needs to be installed on the street or, for example, on open balcony. Here, both the impact of dust and direct exposure to atmospheric precipitation are taken into account. So, for safety reasons, it is recommended to use models with a protection class of at least IP55.

Now that general concepts If you have received information about the design and types of sockets, you can refer to the schematic diagrams of their connection.

Schemes for connecting sockets to the electrical network

Socket connection diagrams are not particularly complex. But it is still necessary to consider them.

First, a diagram for connecting sockets to single-phase network, in which there is no grounding loop.

The diagram shows digital symbols:

1 – general safety coupled machine.

2 – automatic switch that disconnects the phase on the line to which the sockets will be connected.

3 – zero bus.

4 – distribution switching boxes. According to the rules, wiring in the house must be located exactly above the sockets, so that the vertical outlet section goes down. Each outlet (or block of several outlets) must have its own junction box.

5 – the cable of hidden or open wiring is conventionally shown.

Find out from our new article on our portal.

Please note - in accordance with the rules followed by professional electricians, it is customary to place the phase on the socket on the left, and zero on the right. Unfortunately, not everyone does exactly this. Although such installation greatly simplifies the operation of some devices (those that fundamentally require the mandatory position of phase and zero), and carrying out diagnostics and repair work if there are problems in the network.

Where is the best place to install sockets?

This publication is devoted specifically to connecting sockets, and not to planning their location and rules for laying wiring. These questions are so important that they are given a separate article on our portal. In it, by the way, a lot of attention is paid to the peculiarities of placing sockets in the kitchen, where there is usually a maximum “concentration” of large household appliances.

The second scheme is also single sockets, but of the “F” type, with a connection to the ground loop.

6 – bus for connecting grounding (PE) wires. They are shown in green in the diagram.

However, another option for wiring is also possible, which is often used, for example, in utility rooms, especially with an open type of wiring. In this case, the ground loop runs from below, along the floor along the perimeter of the walls. And a separate wire rises from it to the socket. And the liner itself on top is the usual phase and zero. The switching on the socket terminals does not change in any way.

Now let’s slightly increase the area for connecting sockets and see how switching is performed if it is necessary to install a block of two or more pieces.

If the connection is to a network without a ground loop, then everything is relatively simple. In this case, the sockets are connected with a so-called loop. That is, the phase wire approaches the first, and is connected from it to the second by a jumper. Further, from the second jumper goes to the third. The neutral contacts of sockets are switched in the same way.

The method, it must be said, is not without its drawbacks. For example, if there is insufficient contact of one of the wires, say, on the second socket, the third a priori becomes inoperative. However, this is easily diagnosed, and for preventive purposes it is recommended to tighten the screw terminals annually.

If the design of the terminal in sockets provides such an opportunity, optimal solution will make connections not with jumpers, but with a solid wire. On small area The insulation is removed, the wire is bent into a loop and this loop is clamped into the terminal of the first socket. Then the section of insulation for the second outlet is removed - and so on. There is, of course, a lot more fuss; it is necessary to provide in advance the required length of the supply line wires, but the sockets are obtained according to the degree of their performance - they are independent of one another.

It would seem that sockets with a grounding contact can be connected using a cable in the same way. However, such a connection (using jumpers) is undesirable, since it is not reliable. If the absence of a phase or zero becomes immediately noticeable to users, and measures to restore the functionality of the outlet are taken immediately, then unreliability protective grounding may remain undetected for a very long time. And this can pose a very serious threat when operating electrical appliances.

By the way, the operating rules for electrical installations directly prohibit the serial connection of the ground wire.

"PUE-7

1.7.144. The connection of each open conductive part of the electrical installation to the neutral protective or protective grounding conductor must be made using a separate branch. Serial connection to protective conductor exposed conductive parts are not allowed.”

Therefore, as a last resort, you should do what was shown above - with a common ground wire and creating several sections on it for terminal connections (although this will not be entirely correct).

And the best thing is to perform high-quality twisting (unsoldering) on ​​the grounding wire suitable for the first socket box. And from there, lead a separate grounding wire to each socket of the unit for individual connection.

Will such a twist fit in the socket of the first socket? Numerous examples presented in photographs on the Internet convince us that this is possible.

You can also install a deeper socket box for the first socket - not 40, but 60 mm - it will be much easier to fit the wires there. By the way, if space allows, nothing prevents you from performing similar twisting (unsoldering) for the phase with zero - the reliability of the socket block will only benefit from this. Naturally, all connections are carefully insulated with electrical tape or heat-shrinkable tubing. And the twists themselves are very convenient to make using special PPE caps - it turns out quickly, accurately, and very reliably. Wago terminals are also very convenient for such purposes, but for loaded lines, high-quality twisting will still be more reliable.

Sometimes they do this too - they install one more socket box, and it is used as a local mounting box. Then, after switching the entire block, it is closed with a plug, and then - decorative finishing walls. In this case, certainly nothing will prevent you from making reliable, high-quality connections to all sockets of the block.

Socket installation process - step by step

In this article we will not focus on laying wires to the installation site of sockets, installing boxes and socket boxes. This is a topic for a separate and very detailed consideration, and it has already found coverage on the pages of the portal.

How to install wiring in a house or apartment yourself?

The task is not simple, requiring certain knowledge and very high care when carrying out work. In addition, during its implementation it will be necessary to perform a lot of general construction operations. Very detailed about theoretical foundations and all stages of installation are described in a large instruction article on our portal.

When installing sockets, you should adhere to the established color markings of the wires. It is customary to connect zero with blue wires, grounding with green-yellow wires. With phase there may be various options- brown, black, white, red and others, but in any case - always different from zero and grounding.

When installing sockets, and during other electrical installation operations, in any case, the first step is to make sure that the line is completely de-energized. Some measures are being taken to prevent unauthorized switching on - this must be constantly monitored until the work is completed.

Below we will discuss several options for installing sockets. All of them are certainly similar, but have some differences due to the characteristics of specific cases.

Single outlet installation

A very common case - it has been manufactured, and it’s time to install new sockets. A cable is connected to the socket box, which is still inside it in an insulated state.

Illustration
	When wallpapering a wall, two diagonal cuts at once marked the location of the socket box. This is where the outlet will be installed.
	First of all, you need to completely open the socket itself. Fragments of wallpaper around the perimeter are carefully trimmed with a sharp knife...
	...and are deleted. The action is carried out carefully so as not to accidentally damage the finish in the area that will remain uncovered by the outlet.
	End hidden inside power cable pulls out.
	Inside the socket after finishing works A lot of debris, mortar residues, and dust may accumulate. All this needs to be cleaned out.
	After removing large debris, small debris can be quickly cleaned with a vacuum cleaner.
	That's it, the place is prepared - you can proceed to installation work.
	First of all, if necessary, shorten the cable suitable for the outlet. Usually it is assumed that it should protrude beyond the surface of the wall by 60÷80 mm.
	Next, you need to remove the outer layer of protective insulation (braid) from the cable. Here it is shown that the master is using an ordinary knife. It’s possible, of course, but still it’s not entirely correct, since it’s easy to damage the insulation of the wires. Below, in following table, a more competent approach to this operation will be shown.
	The braid is removed, freeing the wires. Its remains are carefully cut off and removed so that they do not interfere with work.
	The freed wires are immediately separated somewhat to the sides, exactly in the order in which they will be connected in the socket: phase on the left, neutral on the right and grounding in the center. The ends of the wires (about 25 mm) can be slightly bent downwards.
	Using an insulation stripper, the ends are exposed - approximately 10 mm from the edge.
	The ends of the wires are stripped and ready for installation.
	The example shown here uses a socket equipped with self-clamping spring terminals. That is, the work is simplified to the limit. The stripped end of the wire is inserted into the hole in the terminal and simply pushed into it until it stops. Switching the socket takes only a few seconds.
	After this, it is necessary to check the reliability of fixation of all three wires in the terminals using a pulling motion. If everything is fine, you can move on.
	The connected wires are bent slightly so that they are located along back side socket housing.
	In this form, the socket is ready for installation in the socket box.
	In this example, the mounting screws still remain in the socket box. Of course, they should be unscrewed. But usually this operation is carried out a little earlier, when cleaning the socket box from construction debris.
	The socket body is inserted into the socket box and approximately, by eye, is aligned horizontally. Then it is temporarily fixed with self-tapping screws. First on the one hand...
	...and then the opposite one. The screws are not yet tightened.
	The next step is to align the top edge of the socket strictly horizontally. To do this, a level is applied to the upper edge of the caliper, and the necessary position adjustments are made. Arc-shaped cutouts under the screws make it possible to slightly rotate the socket in the desired direction.
	Then, without disturbing the set position, tighten the fastening screws. After this, the screws of the stopper claws are screwed in, which, moving apart, will rest against the walls of the socket box and finally fix the socket.
	You can proceed to the final assembly. For the model of rosette shown, the decorative frame consists of two parts - first it is assembled.
	Then the central cover with a socket for the plug is inserted into it.
	In this form they are connected to the body of the installed socket. The system of grooves and protrusions on these parts will ensure an ideal, unambiguous alignment - somehow installing the cover unevenly will simply not work.
	All that remains is to tighten the fixing screw in the center - it will finally press the cover to the socket body. True, you should not make “fanatical” efforts when screwing it in so that the plastic of the lid does not crack.
	That's it, the socket is installed - the correct placement is checked. If this was the only electrical task, you can turn on the machine and check the functionality of the outlet.

Installing a block of two sockets

The situation is similar - after finishing it is necessary to install a block of two single sockets. The master will connect them to each other using a loop. The negative aspects of this method have already been discussed above, but many people do just that.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	Even before the finishing work begins, two socket boxes are placed in the right place at a set distance from one another. The power cable is connected to the left
	Two single Legrand sockets will be installed and covered with one common frame.
	This is the remnant of a three-core cable coil that was used for hidden wiring. A piece of it will be needed to connect the sockets to each other.
	After cleaning the socket boxes from construction debris, you can immediately unscrew the fastening screws from them. After installing the socket boxes before finishing, they are usually left in place so that the holes are not clogged with mortar, but now they should be removed.
	The end of the supplied cable is pulled out of the socket box. When cutting off the excess, the master is guided by the “4-finger rule” - this is how much the cable should protrude beyond the wall surface for the convenience of further electrical installation work.
	The braid is removed from the cable. But here the master first deliberately demonstrates how to do it. When cutting the braid with a knife, there is a high probability of damaging the insulation of the wires located inside.
	This is the kind of trouble that can happen. In addition, damage to the insulation may be almost unnoticeable, but one day, already during the operation of the outlet, it will play its fatal role.
	To remove the outer insulation of the cable, a special knife with a heel must be used.
	When working with such a tool, the risk of damaging the insulation of the cable wires is completely eliminated.
	The torn cable braid is cut off and removed so that it does not take up space in the box and does not interfere with work.
	After this, the ends of the three wires are exposed by about 10 mm. For this, a special tool must also be used - an insulation stripper. Making cuts with a knife means provoking a break in the conductor. In addition, scratches on the conductor are very unhelpful for quality contact when connecting to the terminals.
	Stripped ends of the wires in the first socket box. Now it is necessary to insert wires into it for switching with the second outlet.
	To do this, take a piece of the same cable that was used for the liner. This is important, because if you are going to make a cable, then only with completely identical wires. The braid is removed to a length from the edge of approximately 200 mm. After this, the wires from the side of the second socket box are inserted into the first through the channel between them.
	This is what it will look like in reality after pulling the wires.
	The ends of the inserted wires are also stripped of insulation and you can proceed to connecting the first outlet. This model has three screw terminals, but each has two identical sockets for inserting wires.
	Wires with the same color markings are inserted into them in pairs. In the left pair - white (phase), in the central - green-yellow (grounding), in the right - blue (zero). After installing each pair, the terminal is immediately tightened tightly with a screwdriver. After tightening all three terminals, the wires at the back are slightly bent down along the socket body...
	...and then the socket is carefully inserted into the socket box and approximately aligned.
	The socket is not yet secured with self-tapping screws - first you need to immediately install the second one. Here everything is even simpler.
	First, the required length of the wires is measured with “four fingers” and the insulation is stripped from their ends.
	Then the wires are inserted in the same order into the socket terminals and tightened with screws.
	After this, the wires are folded along the body in the same way, and the socket is installed in the socket box.
	Now you can provide preliminary fixation of the sockets with self-tapping screws - two pieces for each, left and right. The screws are not yet fully tightened.
	The next step is to align the sockets horizontally. The master has a special tool for these purposes - miniature levels. Firstly, they are well fixed with magnets to the socket supports and do not tie your hands, and secondly, they allow you to perform alignment with very high accuracy. It is clear that if there are no such levels, you will have to make do with the usual ones.
	After the necessary adjustments to the position of the sockets have been made, they are finally fixed. First, the self-tapping screws are screwed in until they stop, and then the screws that will release the sockets’ stop legs.
	After the sockets are aligned, and after fixing the correctness of their position is checked again, you can proceed to the final procedures - installation external cladding and lids. The overall frame is unpacked and tried on.
	Then the covers are inserted one by one and finally secured with screws.
	That's it, installation of the double socket block is complete.

By the way, often when you need to have certain place two sockets, but there is no desire to bother with two sub-grids and assembling the block, just install one double. In fact, its installation is practically no different from the usual installation - it is just larger in size. But there is one important nuance, which should not be forgotten.

The fact is that in most models, in order to provide contacts on both plugs being connected, two plate bus bars are installed inside the socket - for phase and zero. But sometimes it happens that each of the buses has two terminals - seemingly for convenience during installation. And a fairly common mistake made by those performing such installation for the first time is that the phase and neutral wires are clamped into the terminals of one busbar.

The consequences of such inattention are completely obvious. When the power is turned on, there is an instant short circuit. And it will be very good if the matter is limited to just a burnt or melted socket. Things could be much worse.

So attentiveness and accuracy when carrying out electrical installation work must be mobilized to the fullest.

Features of installing sockets on a plasterboard wall

Another option that is often encountered during repairs is that the socket (one or a block of several) must be installed on a partition made of plasterboard or on a wall lined with it.

Naturally, this issue is thought out in advance, and to the breaded installation site even before installation plasterboard sheets a cable is pulled, enclosed in a special corrugated pipe for safety.

The process of installing sockets, in principle, is not particularly different from the options discussed above. The nuance here is rather the installation of socket boxes.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	For this task, special socket boxes for plasterboard are used. There are several similar models, but they all have one common distinctive feature.
	On both sides of such a socket there are pressing feet, which move upward along the groove intended for this purpose when the screw (screw) is screwed in. Thus, the paws will press the socket box from the back of the plasterboard sheet.
	The design of the socket box body and the legs themselves can be different. In this example, the body has the shape of a truncated cone, that is, when moving upward, the legs will also diverge to the sides. In other versions, the shape of the guide groove is made such that when the screw rotates, the tab first rotates 90 degrees and then progressively moves upward. But this does not particularly affect the installation order. Before installation, the tabs must be in their lowest position.
	In the socket boxes, windows are cut and then squeezed out to allow wires to pass through. In the first - from the bottom for cable entry and from the side for the switching channel with the second socket. In the second - only on the side for switching.
	The socket boxes are prepared - you can move on to markings on the wall. The location of the sockets, that is, the area where the supply cable is hidden under the drywall, should be known to the owners. In this case, a block of two sockets will be installed, and they, naturally, should be placed on the same horizontal line.
	A vertical line is also drawn - this is the axis of the first rosette. At the intersection point, a round window for the socket box will be drilled.
	The standard distance between the centers of socket boxes, if they are planned to be assembled into a single block, is 71 mm. This segment breaks off along a horizontal line. Naturally, when marking the centers of holes, the location of the elements is always taken into account frame structure walls so as not to get on studs or lintels.
	Both centers are marked - you can proceed to drilling.
	For this, a special crown with a diameter of 68 mm is used. You can, of course, cut with a knife or file, but there is a very high risk of accidentally making a mistake, going beyond the boundaries of the cut, and the socket may not have sufficient support for reliable fixation. When drilling, you don’t need to make any special efforts - drywall is easy to cut. Excessive pressure may damage the back cardboard covering of the gypsum board. In addition, do not forget that somewhere behind the plasterboard wall there is also a cable that can be damaged if, due to great force, the crown uncontrollably falls deep into the wall.
	The first window for the socket box is ready. Move on to drilling the second one.
	Both sockets for socket boxes are drilled out.
	Now you need to find the cable laid there behind the plasterboard lining...
	...and carefully pull its end out.
	Then the cable is passed through the hole in the bottom of the first socket, and the socket itself is carefully inserted into the cut out socket...
	...all the way, so that the edge along the outer circumference rests against the surface of the drywall.
	After this, the second socket box is inserted into its socket.
	The socket boxes are aligned along the vertical axis, and then they are fixed. To do this, rotate the screws (or self-tapping screws) clockwise to ensure the movement of the presser feet. On many models (in particular, on the one demonstrated), this movement is clearly visible visually. For some, it is invisible, and you have to rely on the force on the screwdriver. In any case, rotate the screw until you feel that the foot has rested on the drywall. They move to the opposite paw and bring it to the same position. After this, another half turn is made on both screws - and that’s enough. Under no circumstances should you overtighten - the foot may begin to crumble the drywall from the inside.
	Similar actions are repeated on the second socket box. We can assume that they have been successfully installed.
	Next, the cable braid is removed. In principle, sockets can also be installed. But it is also recommended to putty this unit - this will increase its strength. And, in general, it is better to finally install the sockets after the finishing is completed.
	This means that the ends of the wires need to be insulated...
	...and then carefully roll it up and hide it in the socket. The installation of the sockets themselves, when the final conditions for this are created, is no different from the examples discussed above.

* * * * * * *

So, the issues of self-installation of sockets were considered. Of course, the variety of possible installation options is not limited to the examples shown.

If, after reading the article, a reader inexperienced in electrical engineering still has unresolved questions, the fear of self-installation- It’s better not to take it. Call an electrician - it will be more reliable and safer.
But if you decide to do it yourself, then always make sure that the network is completely de-energized before starting work. And after completing the installation, carefully check the correctness of all connections, the quality of the insulation - and only then can you carry out a test by turning on the voltage.

At the end of the publication, there is an interesting video on the same topic:

Video: Nuances of correct installation of grounded sockets

Cellular telephone services have greatly simplified communication between people, making it more convenient and accessible. A modern person does not need to rush around looking for a telephone booth or token to be able to make a call. However, despite the undeniable advantages of mobile communication, landline phones and wired communications are still in great demand, remaining a reliable means of high-quality connection. In addition, the devices themselves have become much more convenient and functional. To use this type of communication, you will need telephone sockets. These connectors have their own characteristics and differences in installation methods and must be taken into account when connecting. In this article we will tell you how to connect a telephone socket to a telephone cable, consider diagrams and instructions.

Telephone socket design, communication cable arrangement

In my own way internal structure, connectors for connecting telephones and wires for transmitting signals have little in common with electrical sockets and power lines. They differ not only structurally, but also in the installation method. To understand all the intricacies of connecting communication lines, you need to study the features of the device and the operating principle of switching devices. Read also the article: → "".

The telephone line current constantly changes depending on the position of the handset (off-hook or on-hook) and the state of the connector (connected or disconnected). If the device is not connected to the network, the line will leak D.C. voltage 40-60 V. A similar situation occurs when the telephone is connected, but the handset is placed on the lever. At the moment of the call, the voltage increases to 120 V, while being converted into alternating voltage. Removing the tube lowers it to a value of 6 to 12 volts.

All these processes occur in a flat wire that has two copper cores. It could be compared with the PPV wire used for electrical wiring, but the core cross-section is so small that it can only be used for the specified network loads: in telephone lines, as well as in automation circuits (burglar or fire alarms).

There are several types of connectors for connecting phones:

• RTShK-4 – can only be used for old communication devices;
• RJ-11 – a modern version called “euro”;
• R.J.-12 – slang name for the connectorR.J.-25, which has become so widespread that for the convenience of providing information, it is used more often than the real one. In fact, such sockets do not exist, so when faced with the term R.J.-12 should be impliedR.J.-25 .

The RJ-11 telephone jack has a socket-style port for a matching plug. Outwardly, it looks like a computer socket, but upon closer examination, you will notice that their sockets differ in width (it is wider in the computer version).

The most common device options:

• invoices, also known as external ones;
• mortise, they are also internal.

There are also built-in products, but they are manufactured in the form of blocks that, as a rule, combine several types of switching devices - electrical, TV, computer and telephone. Read also the article: → "".

There is also a design combining RTShK-4 and RJ-11, which at a certain stage was able to solve the issue of using imported telephone sets with Euro connectors in post-Soviet territories. Now it is obsolete, although it continues to be used successfully.

Modern telephone wires can most often be two-wire or four-wire. In this case, the core insulation has a characteristic coloring. Wires with 4 cores are used, as a rule, for office mini-PBXs, as well as for parallel connection of two devices on the secretary-director principle. In this case, RJ-12 connectors are used.

Connecting a telephone socket

Connecting RJ-11 and RJ-12 sockets is absolutely the same, with the exception of the number of connected conductors. The most commonly used are two-core wires, with switching there are no problems. The situation is more complicated with four-core products, the connection of which must be made according to the color scheme.

Before starting work, the socket is disassembled (the top panel is removed). The outer sheath is removed from the telephone cable to the required length. Depending on the type of contacts, the conductors are stripped or left insulated. Further actions are carried out in accordance with the instructions.

Switching with two-wire wire (RJ-11)

Step-by-step instructions will help you connect quickly:

1. There are four terminals or contacts located on the inside of the device. If there are bolted contacts, you need to decide on the color of the conductors connected to them. According to international standards, the red conductor should be negative and the green conductor positive. The ends of the supplied telephone wire are connected to them

1. If the design of the device provides terminals, then there is no need to strip the ends of the wire. They are inserted into the base of the terminals and pressed until they stop with a thin flat-head screwdriver. Miniature knives provided in each contact will cut through the insulation and ensure reliable contact. In this case, the middle terminals 2 and 3 are used

1. Mount the device on the wall and check operation
2. Close the front panel. Installation is complete.

Connecting a socket with a 4-wire wire (RJ-12)

The following tips will be helpful during installation:

This switching method is standard and generally accepted, providing convenience when servicing and repairing telephone lines.

Connectors for connecting telephone sets to sockets

Like telephone jacks, connectors can be connected to them using a two-wire (RJ-11 system) or four-wire cable (RJ-12 system). Crossing the connector with a wire of 2 cores is carried out as follows:

1. The outer protective shell is removed, leaving free ends 10-12 mm long
2. The conductors, without stripping the insulating layer, are inserted into the connector body at the middle positions 2.3. The first and fourth terminals remain free
3. The contacts are crimped using a special tool or a screwdriver with a thin base.

If an old-style wire (noodle) is used, then its cores are stripped and placed in a twisted-pair sheath, after which the above measures are carried out. When connecting a 4-core cable, the red and green wires (or blue and white-blue) are connected to the middle contacts 2.3, and black and yellow (or orange and white-orange) are connected to 1.4. After this, crimping is carried out.

Crimping with a screwdriver is done by alternately pressing each of the connector contacts until it stops. The built-in knife will pierce the insulating layer of the conductor and the connection will be ensured.

Review of well-known manufacturers of telephone sockets

When choosing a connector device for connecting a landline telephone, it is advisable to give preference to brands that have a positive, time-tested reputation in the electronic equipment market. Among such brands are Turkish companies Lezard, VIKO, as well as manufacturers from France - Schneider Electric, Legrand Valena. For comparison, average prices from online stores for the products of these manufacturers are shown in the table:

The prices indicated are averages and cannot be used for planning or budgeting. Read also the article: → "".

Mistakes made when selecting and installing telephone sockets

The main cause of all mistakes is frivolity and inattention. By reading these recommendations, you can avoid problems and shortcomings during the installation of switching devices.

Practical recommendation: If the user does not have the skills to work with electronic devices, you should not try to mount the phone connector yourself. It is necessary to seek help from specialists who will provide competent and reliable installation sockets

Error 1. After opening the package, the attached instructions are thrown away in the belief that the connection diagram is indicated on the product body. There may be no diagram and then installation difficulties may arise.

Error 2. Carry out installation without dielectric gloves. As already mentioned, the voltage in the network can rise to 120 Volts. Considering that there is no “safe voltage”, this can have unpleasant consequences. Work must be carried out in compliance with safety regulations.

Error 3. When purchasing a product, you may want to save money and buy a device from an unknown company at a lower price. This is a false economy: the product may be of poor quality and not have a guarantee, as a result of which it will be impossible to exchange it or return the money. Well-known brands provide warranties for their products, which is a guarantee of quality and reliability.

Error 4. During installation, the conductors shorted with each other and the telephone line was disconnected. There is no need to raise panic and cause repair team from the telephone company. The line is disconnected automatically through the central exchange. This disconnection occurs for several minutes, after which network operation is restored.

Error 5. Using used wire, removed from an old building or in an abandoned room. This wire may have broken insulation or a damaged core. This will certainly affect the quality of communication. It is better to purchase a new cable that meets modern standards, which will ensure flawless communication.

In conclusion, I would like to note that, despite the widespread use of mobile phones, landline devices continue to be widely used due to their independence from territorial “coverage” and various roaming charges. In addition, wired communication provides a better connection, and sometimes remains the only accessible means messages.