Possible methods of simulating marble and granite tiles. Artificial marble, its varieties, properties and production features. Preparing and filling out the form

Time to make stones!

The combination of an image, metal fittings and a bright, fancy structure of minerals on an object always looks very impressive. Using a small set of acrylic paints and household materials, you can turn a surface of any shape into “stone”.

The pattern on the surfaces of stones can be roughly divided into groups:

Layered,

spotted,

Thread.

For example, malachite is layered, but granite and lapis lazuli are spotted, etc.

1. Cover work surface. Put on an apron or overalls (if acrylic paint gets on the fabric it is difficult to remove later), prepare several containers with clean water.

2. Select synthetic brushes: wide flat and round with long bristles (for ease of work, it’s good to have brushes of different sizes on hand).

3. Prepare pieces of a dish sponge, a sea sponge (not necessarily a natural one, an imitation of it can be successfully used), scissors, toothbrush, napkins, rags. You will also need fine-grit sandpaper.

4. Select photographs of the stone and a set of paints required in advance.

6. Multi-layer varnishing makes the imitation of a stone surface more natural, so no matter what method and stone you choose, try not to neglect this stage.

Simulation method for layered rocks

Imitation of malachite in decoupage using acrylic paint

Let's look at the example of malachite.

Malachite is a mineral that forms green sinter-shaped masses with a radial fibrous structure.

Light green, dark cobalt green, heavenly, whitewash, ultramarine, natural umber, black.

Additional materials:

Additional materials:

Additional materials:

From the tools:

Sea sponge;

Additional materials:

From the tools:

Sea sponge;

The palette is plastic.

1. Background. On the palette, mix a small amount of Kaput mortuum with white. We get a pleasant delicate pink color. There is no need to mix the paints thoroughly, leaving color heterogeneity.

Using a wide synthetic brush, apply a thick layer of paint to the surface of the workpiece, creating smooth transitions.

2. Stains. Wet the sponge in clean water, squeeze it out, put a small amount of white on it and make impressions, lightly touching the surface.

We fill the workpiece area only partially in this way, about a third. The direction of the applied light paint will serve as the basis for drawing future veins.

3. Veins. Apply Kaput Mortuum paint to a small round brush. Pre-wet the brush generously with water. The consistency of the paint should not be thick.

With a trembling hand and with varying pressure on the brush, we apply a vein and immediately blur its edge with water. We stretch the paint. We finalize the line with lighter translucent shades, paint with the addition of white and well diluted with water.

In the same way we draw all the other lines, including light gray ones.

4. We work again with a sponge with a light color applied to it.

5. Drying and varnishing. Cover the surface with several layers acrylic varnish, dry, level the surface with fine-grained sandpaper. We repeat the operation, gradually diluting the varnish with water. For effectiveness, we recommend applying at least 20 layers of acrylic gloss varnish.

Imitation pink marble is ready.

3. Stains. Dip the sponge into water and squeeze out. Apply Ultramarine to it and walk over the entire surface.

Repeat the operation with Cobalt Blue.

4. Veins. Using a thin round brush, apply whitewash to curved lines and blur their edges with water until the paint has dried.

5. Spray. Use a brush or toothbrush to take white paint diluted with water and spray it over the surface.

Do the same with applying gold paint.

6. Drying and varnishing. We cover the surface with several layers of acrylic varnish, dry it, then level the surface with fine-grained sandpaper.

We repeat the operation, gradually diluting the varnish with water and reducing the grain size of the sandpaper. For effectiveness, we recommend applying at least 20 layers of acrylic gloss varnish.

And we complete the process with finishing varnish.

The “lapis lazuli” surface is complete.

Imitation of turquoise using monotype technique

Turquoise - ornamental and semiprecious stone, a mineral popular from ancient times to the present day. Creating a background for the veins and natural spots of this stone deserves special attention.

Paint colors from the palette artistic paints"Acrylic Art": Turquoise, Cobalt blue, White,

Marble - what could be more beautiful and noble than this material? It is used in the interior, decorated with stone slabs on the walls. But not every apartment owner is ready to shell out considerable sums for the fact that he was present in the interior natural material. Therefore, marble imitation is the most relevant action.

There are several types of marble in nature, differing in color and grain size. Therefore, you should not hope that in the process of work you will be able to obtain an exact imitation of a specific breed. But your household does not require this achievement from you. Therefore, it remains to give the wall surface only characteristic features natural stone. Namely, silicon inclusions, small veins.

If you have ever drawn, then in a simple way obtaining a marble drawing will become a sketch. The essence of this method is based on applying several layers of acrylic paint using rags and artistic techniques.

Marble imitation technology

1. Primer the wall surface. Pre-level and clean from dirt and dust. Now you should coat the entire surface with a layer of light semi-matte paint. After 12 hours, when the layer has dried, a second layer of a similar color is applied. We leave the walls for a day for completely dry. We try to avoid leaks and other flaws during painting work. This is our base for imitation marble decoupage.

2. It's time to rough out the marble texture. This stage most important. Dip a large paint brush into paint and make clouds. Here you don’t have to try to withstand monochromatic stains. After all, light and dark stains will look beautiful later. The imitation of marble with paints does not end there.

3. We move on to imitation of masonry. While the cloud theme is not completely dry, we make the contours of the cobblestones. They should be drawn on top of the painted spots. When working, use two or more shades of paint. If you want to achieve realistic simulation marble, then the contours should be drawn with different thicknesses.

4. Learning the “stuffing” technique. Do-it-yourself marble imitation doesn’t end with painting. After the completed stages, the applied template is covered with glaze. To do this, linseed oil, turpentine and drier are mixed and applied in a thin layer. This will speed up the drying of the oils. According to marble imitation technology, the glaze is applied with light touches using any sponge made of natural fibers. After this, you should work on some areas with a texture brush. This imitates the translucency of marble.

5. While the glaze is not dry, move on to the next stage - applying veins. To do this, use a thin brush and whitewash. Of course, you can choose a paint that is darker in tone, which is shaded after application. Believe me, this is labor-intensive and difficult work. For clarity, use a photo of marble.

1.Artificial marble according to Borchardt.

a) The mass is prepared from pure quartz sand, carbonated lime, talc and gypsum, to which a finely ground coloring matter can also be added. The sand used should consist of pure silica, and for this purpose it is washed and cleaned of all organic components. After the sand has completely dried, 5-6% tripoli is added to it. Then, as a binding agent, for every 100 sand, add 6-7 carbonated lime, 3 talc, 4 gypsum, 3 feldspar. All components are mixed together with a small amount of water. The resulting mass is laid out in molds and, after complete drying, fired in white heat in an oven without a blower.

b) Take 80 gypsum and 20 lime carbonate, finely grind, mix and knead with a mixture consisting of 1000 distilled water, 1080 lime sulfate.

c) Take 1000 water, 1440 glue, 1000 sulfuric acid. Then they put the dough into molds and, when it has hardened, take it out, dry it for two hours, grind and polish it in the usual way. Finally, the item is dipped into a bath of linseed oil with a temperature of 70°C, after which it is dried and lubricated with stearin. Aniline dyes are recommended for dyeing. d) Artificial marble is pale yellow to white. 30 coarse white sand, 42 chalk, 24 rosin, 4 burnt lime.

d) Greenish. 28 coarse white sand. 42 chalk, 2 ultramarine blue, 24 rosin, 4 burnt lime.

f) Corporeal. 28 coarse white sand, 42 chalk, 1 ultramarine blue, 1 cinnabar, 24 rosin, 4 burnt lime.

2. Imitation marble. a) According to Van der Steen. First, prepare the water in which the gypsum is to be ground, adding wood glue and resin to it; the glue dissolves in the usual way warm water, and the resin in a warm turpentine bath. Gypsum is diluted in water prepared in this way so that the entire mass is enough to fill the mold. After this, the paints necessary for painting the marble are added to the mixture; paints should be prepared in special vessels. The colored marble prepared in this way is then poured into molds made of plaster, cement or rubber for smooth plates on glass or stone boards. This marble layer is applied to a thickness of 4 mm, then a layer of dry plaster is sifted over it to remove excess water used to dissolve the colored plaster. As soon as this layer of powdered gypsum is thoroughly moistened with water, which is contained in excess in the colored gypsum, a thin layer of well-dissolved, but not colored gypsum is knocked out onto it, and canvas or slab is placed on it. This is followed by a layer of dissolved gypsum, to which crushed crushed stone is mixed. This last layer depends on the thickness that they want to give to an object made from artificial marble. As soon as the mass has hardened sufficiently (after 6-8 hours), it is removed from the plate or taken out of the mold, wiped with pumice and the pores in the mass are filled with dissolved gypsum, painted in the main color of the cast object. To make the surface waterproof, it is treated with potassium silicate, either immersing it in a bath or spreading the liquid with a brush. When the mass is completely dry, the surface is polished, and the novelty of the polishing process is that it is polished with a swab wrapped in a rag and soaked in polishes made according to special recipes:

I. White polish for light artificial marble: 100 bleached gum, 600 alcohol, 25 finely ground gypsum.

II. Brown polish: 100 gum lac orange color, 600 alcohol, 25 finely ground gypsum.

First, the object to be polished is wiped with a swab soaked in alcohol, then the polish is applied using another swab and the swab continues to be rubbed until some adhesion is noticeable. The layer of polish thus formed is processed with the first swab soaked in alcohol until a completely smooth surface is obtained.

III. Black polish. a) To do this, take a little black aniline paint on a rag. To achieve a uniform and very shiny polish, it is necessary to moisten the rag covering the tampon from time to time with a few drops of oil. b) According to Rosmer. Objects - vases, figures, etc. - made from ordinary limestone are heated for 12 hours, at a pressure of 5 atmospheres, with boiling water or steam. Then they are placed in a bath consisting of an alum solution at 5° B., in which they remain from 1 day to several weeks. In this way, the stone acquires greater hardness and the ability to accept polish. If they want to color the stone, then aniline dyes dissolved in water are added to the mixture. c) According to Ostermeyer. Mix milk of lime with finely crushed marble, or milk of lime with chalk, until you get something like a paste. Based on a study of Pompeian cement, Ostermeyer recommends adding to this mass a sufficient amount of coarsely ground limestone. This cement dries and hardens quickly.

3. Imitation granite. Mix clean fine sand, pyrite or some other mass containing flint with freshly burnt and crushed lime in the following proportion: 10 sand or pyrite and 1 lime. The lime is quenched by the moisture of the sand, eats away the flint and forms a thin layer around each flint grain. Once cooled, the mixture is softened with water. Then take 10 crushed granite and 1 lime and mix it into place. Both mixtures are placed in metal mold in such a way that the mixture of sand and lime forms the very middle of the object, and the mixture of granite and lime forms the outer shell from 6 to 12 mm (depending on the thickness of the object being prepared). Finally, the mass is pressed and hardened by drying it in air. The coloring agent is iron ore and iron oxide, which are mixed hot with granite granite. If they want to give special hardness to objects formed from the above composition, then they are placed in potassium silicate for an hour and subjected to heat at 150°C.

Technique - imitation Granite.

So, we will need:
1) the countertop we want to redo
2) acrylic primer
3) acrylic paint up to 6 different colors(we choose shades depending on what kind of granite we want to get)
4) sea sponge (some people replace it with a crumpled rag)
5) roller
6) bristle brush
7) varnish

Sand the countertop, then wipe and degrease. We tint the primer in sand color and paint over the entire surface - this is the base layer. Let it dry.

Take one color of paint and use a sea sponge to apply it to the countertop. Try not to put a lot of paint on the sponge; if this happens, then remove the excess with a dry bristle brush (as if tapping). Once you've finished with one color, repeat the same process with other paint colors. You might want to add again a certain color, which you want to emphasize. Dry the paint well. You can protect the surface polyurethane varnish, but if it doesn’t suit you because of its yellowness, then you can coat it with polyacrylic varnish. About 10 layers will be enough...

Texture - granite

Currently, imitation marble is becoming increasingly popular; it is even used in the decoupage technique. It's worth considering what options artificial imitation of this material exist.

Imitation of marble coating is created using artificial stone. It is produced in 3 ways: using concrete, gypsum, polyester resins.

By adding fillers, hardeners and dyes and mixing them correctly, the effect of streaks, stains and streaks is created. All these elements repeat the pattern of natural marble, which has the following advantages:

• strength;
• heat resistance, i.e. the stone does not burn in fire and does not conduct electric current;
• environmentally friendly material, does not release toxins even when burning;
• tiles are not afraid chemicals, acids, alkalis, solvents, acetone and gasoline;
• the material is moisture resistant, not subject to rotting and delamination;
• Impact-resistant artificial marble tiles;
• heat resistant.

In addition, artificial marble is also beneficial in terms of the following indicators:

1. Leaves no waste.
2. It is very easy to care for.
3. Not as expensive as natural marble.
4. You can choose the desired color and shape.

It is made from:

• window sills;
• tile;
• countertops;
• bathrooms;
• stairs;
• vases;
• bar counters;
• fountains;
• sinks, etc.

Artificial marble can often be imitated for finishing electrical appliances, stoves, ovens, and heating radiators.

Marbling - marble painting technique

This marbled painting technique is carried out in a decorative way. A pattern resembling a marble coating is created on the surface of any product. If the work is done with high quality, sometimes it is difficult to recognize the imitation of marble. This technique used for painting tables, countertops, floors, fireplaces, columns. Painting in this way is also applied to wooden items, for example, candlesticks, picture or photo frames. Despite the labor-intensive work, the painting technique is quite simple.

Decorative Venetian marbled plaster

The use of Venetian plaster (imitation marble) is characterized by a pattern that imitates stone. This material has a number of advantages:

• hides small wall defects;
• allows air to pass through;
• lasts quite a long time;
• unpretentious in care.

Plaster application technique

How to make marble in the Venetian style? If you decide to apply it to the walls yourself Venetian plaster, then first of all read the instructions for the material, talk to experts in this field, since starting from scratch is not easy.

When simulating marble with your own hands, you must follow the following sequence:

1. Surface preparation. The wall needs to be leveled, primed and plastered.
2. After that facing material mixed with a small amount of water. It is ready to be applied to the wall.
3. To form a pattern, each layer is applied in an arcing motion. You can also look at photos with suggested patterns and repeat the movements of the drawings. After applying plaster, the wall surface can be given a glossy appearance by applying special wax.

In addition, there is a special powder on sale, which, when added to the mixture, when applied, will result in a tile that imitates marble. Thus, this method of decoration can become accessible to everyone.

Venetian plaster implies not only an imitation of marble; you can make the surface based on granite or stone. The plaster must be applied in at least 2 layers. Only in multi-layer application will it be easier to add volume and depth to the surface.

To apply finishing material you will need a spatula. It will forcefully press 1 layer into the other. The material is applied stroke by stroke. Before applying the next layer, wait until the previous one is completely dry. At the end, the layers are processed and cleaned.

Frescoes or tiles with marble covering. The interior of the room changes beyond recognition. If you decide to imitate a complex marble pattern, start with small spaces. These can be radius walls, fireplaces, arches, etc.

How to make decoupage?

There are many ways to imitate marble in decoupage. Can be made into marble cardboard box, a frame with an image, a plate, etc. If you decide to make a marble box from a simple box, then the sequence of work on imitation marble (master class) will consist of the following items:

1. Pre-varnish the product.
2. Choose the color of the marble surface.
3. Prime the box lid and sand it with sandpaper. Circle the place where you will glue the decoupage picture.
4. Use a foam sponge to tint the surface. If necessary, sand and apply varnish. To ensure the depth and transparency of the box, each stage of work is fixed with varnish.
5. If you have prepared a light background for painting, then each subsequent layer will be darker.
6. Using crumpled paper, apply strokes and small splashes to the surface of the box. This color will be your marble accents. Varnish is applied on top in 3 layers, sanded if necessary.
7. The following inclusions are made in a different color. So, 3 colors are already involved.
8. Now you should draw the veins on the made surfaces; for this, use the 4th color. The paint is taken with a sponge and dipped in water, the water is slightly wrung out, and lines are applied to the surface of the box. Rub the lines a little, creating the impression of a slight haze or blur. Fix the result with varnish.
9. After this, acrylic paint is taken white and diluted with water, it is blown out with a tube onto blurred lines, resulting in small marble veins.
10. Use a thin brush to paint additional veins with a different color of paint. Apply varnish and wait until dry. Thus, they made a box that imitates a marble box.

Using the same technique you can make decorative cutting board, photo frame, plate, etc.