How to glue veneer at home. Contact glue for veneer How to glue veneer together

People who want to update their furniture, but do not have the opportunity to buy new products, should pay attention to veneer. It consists of sheets of wood that come in different thicknesses and colors. The veneer is glued to old furniture which improves it appearance. Such finishing will reliably protect objects from damage in the future, which is why many are interested in the question of how to glue veneer to a base. This is quite possible at home.

How to glue veneer: description of the main types of material

How to glue veneer correctly?

There are also root cuts of trees, from which nothing can be created on furniture production. However, they are still used because of the unusual pattern.

What glue should I use to glue veneer?

When working with thin wood, it is better to use contact adhesive. It provides strong adhesion to surfaces. You can also try a different type of glue.

• PVA. Suitable for gluing even parts when this is done tightly using a hot iron.
• Titebond. It is considered a professional moisture-resistant solution and is suitable for working with more complex elements.
• Epoxy resin. It is also used for adhesion of thin wood to plywood and fiberboard, but not everyone likes it.

Remember that veneer is porous material, so lubricate it only with thick glue that does not contain water-based solvents.

How to glue veneer at home?

Gluing veneer to a base is also called veneering. When performing the procedure, follow certain rules:

1. Prepare the surfaces to be bonded so that they are clean and level.
2. Inspect the veneer. If it has a layer of glue underneath protective film, remove it and go over this place with an iron.
3. If there is no adhesive layer, apply it, and when everything is dry, glue the strip of wood to the base.
4. How to glue veneer with an iron? Do this by smoothly guiding the device along the direction of the wood grain.
5. Then be sure to varnish the veneer to protect it from external influences.

It is extremely rare for a furniture maker to get by with just one sheet or strip - more often he has to join glued veneer fragments together. You should learn this too.
At home, joining veneer occurs completely differently than in production. In the second case, the joining is carried out even before gluing the veneer onto the furniture base, that is, cut and high-quality veneer sheets are joined together into a single piece using adhesive paper tape applied along the seams (the paper will be peeled off after gluing). It is clear that if during the process of close-fitting you try to glue the veneer sheets together in advance, then paper tape, having become moistened when the veneer is wetted, will fall behind and the seams will separate. And how do you imagine gluing large sheets of veneer in an apartment? You will have to learn to glue the veneer sheets separately, one after the other - gluing from the middle of the treated surface to its edges. By the way, remember that glue is not applied to the entire surface at once, but only to the place where the sheet fragment will be glued.
The most difficult thing about this work is that, when moistened, the veneer, firstly, curls, and secondly, expands across the fibers. As a result, after grinding the next sheet to the joint previously glued along the joint parallel to the grain, a fold will certainly form - due to the expansion of the veneer. And if you rub this place again, moving the entire sheet, then after drying, when the veneer shrinks slightly, the seam will separate and your work will go down the drain.

How to avoid this?

The next sheet of veneer is not ground close to the previous one, but with some overlap on it. And already when the veneer has expanded, you should cut the overlap right through both sheets - with a sharp knife along a tightly pressed ruler. Then carefully remove the cut strips of veneer using a knife or chisel, slightly bending the edge of the second sheet and again rubbing the joint with a heated iron (and also, if necessary, introducing glue under the edge of the second sheet). To prevent the seam from coming apart during the drying process, glue a paper strip 2-2.5 cm wide onto it (with the same glue). After drying, it can be cleaned off.
You can avoid overlap if the butt seam is perpendicular to the fibers (or runs at an oblique angle towards the fibers). True, then it will be necessary to even more carefully adjust the edges of the sheets being joined, and sometimes again trim the edges of the already glued sheet, tightening new leaf with the previous paper strip so that the joint density is not damaged during grinding.
You can glue without overlap, but then you first need to glue paper strips onto the seams, and only then, when covering the edges, join the veneer strips according to the direction of the fibers.
Now we glue the front face and the front edge with veneer. You can decide for yourself whether to glue the face or the edge first. This will depend on whether you want to hide the edge of the veneer on the edge or the edge of the veneer on the face. Of course, it is better to start with the lining layer of the edge, then paste over the face and only then move on to facing the edge layer. And first, I remind you, you should carefully prepare the surfaces for cladding by selecting and cutting the veneer. We number the cut pieces and the places where they are glued, and mark the joint lines. After heating the glue in the glue bottle, take a brush for applying the glue, an iron for lapping (not electric, but heated over a fire), a rag and paper strips for gluing the seams. Having secured furniture element in a vice with the edge up, apply glue to the edge and rub the prepared strip of veneer using an iron. Having glued the strip, carefully clean its edges with a file so that they do not end up beyond the edges of the edge. That's it, you can start lining the surface.
First, we glue the veneer sheet on one side of the joint line marked on the face - make sure that there is no distortion. Then (with an overlap) we glue the second sheet, cut the overlap, remove the veneer scraps, grind the joint and glue the seam with a paper strip. Since we cut the veneer sheets with allowances, as a result, when moistened, they will expand somewhat across the grain and slightly protrude beyond the face. Therefore, they need to be trimmed immediately. To do this, turn the element upside down and cut off the protruding veneer along each edge with a sharp knife. All that remains is to clean the edges with a file.
We install the furniture element vertically again. For finishing glue the edges first middle lane, then - the side ones. The main thing is to prevent the veneer from breaking during the grinding process, because in the front layer the fibers are directed perpendicular to the edge. After waiting until the glue has completely dried, we clean the edges of the cladding on the edge and use a damp cloth to remove the paper strips from both the edge and the surface.

Many of us have heard about such a product as contact adhesive, but not everyone knows what properties it has and in what cases it is used. In this article we will learn how this composition differs from other binding materials, what its advantage is and how to use it correctly in work.

Description

Contact glue is an adhesive material general purpose, which offers fast, flexible and strong bonding of many materials. It contains the best binders (rubber and synthetic resins), so the glue can be used on almost any surface. It is especially effective at gluing non-porous materials (glass, metal, hard plastics) that other adhesives cannot bond together.

Where to apply

Universal contact adhesive is used in industrial production and everyday life. Possessing increased adhesion, it is used as an elastic connection for materials such as wood, MDF boards, plywood, veneer, cork, and plastic. Contact adhesive is applicable when connecting floor coverings, for example, linoleum, parquet, as well as metals, glass surfaces and rubber. It is ideal for hobbies, shoe repair, leather and decorative works. The glue is effective when working with polystyrene foam, felt, fabric and canvas. Not for use on material such as sheet vinyl.

A wide range of applications allows you to obtain a strong connection, eliminating unnecessary holes in the product, which will also be resistant to external factors and corrosion.

The glue must always be stirred before use. If the material you are gluing is porous, then apply two layers of contact adhesive, allowing each layer to dry in between (at least 15 minutes). The connection will be stronger if the procedure is carried out within two hours after applying the adhesive composition. After a day, the product can be used. But keep in mind that if the surface has not been previously treated with cleaning agents and degreasing solutions, or is heavily dusted, this will reduce the bond strength.

The most common mistake people make when using contact adhesive is trying to bond the materials too early. The thicker the layer of glue, the longer it will take to dry. Therefore, even if the instructions say that the surface of the material is ready for gluing after 10 minutes, it is better to check this fact when touching the glue. If it does not come off your finger, but is dry enough and has a slight gloss, then the composition is ready to hold materials together.

For an even finish, use a small roller roller or a construction brush. If your glue does not contain solvents, then after use, wash the tool with soapy water and rinse.

Clamping parts will help improve grip. With the help of thin and flexible substrates Place the glued product between two sheets of wood or fairly thick metal. This will help resist bending and deformation, and then clamp tightly with clamps. If possible, leave the product in this condition for 24 hours before attempting to use it.

Types of Contact Adhesive

There are many types of adhesives available for use on various surfaces. They can be classified in various ways, namely:

• By chemical composition(for example, epoxy resins, polyurethanes, polyamides);
• form (for example, pastes, liquids, films, granules, tapes);
• type (hot alloys, thermosetting agents, pressure-sensitive compounds, contact);
• By bearing capacity(structural, semi-structural or non-structural).

Semi-structural and non-structural contact adhesives are used to assemble many engineered structures, where a solution or emulsion containing an elastomeric adhesive is applied to both surfaces, the solvent is allowed to evaporate, and then brought into contact. Examples include rubber cement and adhesives used to bond laminates to countertops.

Glue "Moment" and its characteristics

Universal contact adhesive "Moment Classic" is ideal for gluing various combinations of wood, metal, rigid PVC, leather, rubber, felt, decorative laminates, glass, ceramics and porcelain. Not suitable for gluing products in contact with food products. It includes:

• chloroprene rubbers;
• phenol-formaldehyde resins;
• rosin esters;
• antioxidant supplements;
• ethyl acetate;
• acetone;
• aliphatic and naphthenic hydrocarbons.

Moment glue has advantageous characteristics, such as:

• universal adhesion time;
• reliable and durable connection;
• heat resistance;
• flexibility;
• waterproof.

Stored at temperatures from -20 °C to +30 °C. Frozen glue restores its original consistency and properties at room temperature.

Before use, the bonded surfaces must be treated with sandpaper, cleaned of dust and debris, and degreased with gasoline or acetone. Apply a thin layer of glue to both surfaces, leave for 15-20 minutes and press firmly for several seconds. The product can be used after 24 hours. When working, take precautions and avoid open sources of fire.

How to glue plastic?

Plastics can be bonded using a number of modern adhesives. One of the best is Tensol Cement contact adhesive for plastic. Glue is applied to both surfaces to be glued, and when they are dry, they are pressed together. After 24 hours, a strong and permanent connection is formed that is almost impossible to separate.

Many adhesives are plastics themselves. A good example is Araldite, which is an epoxy resin that hardens when a second chemical called a catalyst is added. It can bond most materials, including some plastics. The two constituent substances are mixed together in equal quantities, and then the finished contact adhesive is applied to the plastic that is to be bonded.

Superglue (cyanoacrylate) is another adhesive that bonds plastics very quickly. Great care should be taken when using this type of glue as it easily binds fingers together. For this reason, superglue is not used with children.

There are several ways to join wood veneer to a base. If you prefer a quick and convenient method that does not require large quantity special equipment, That good results can be achieved using contact adhesive "Cement" and a few available tools.

Before you begin, prepare a piece of veneer by trimming it to ½ inch on all sides. Following the manufacturer's instructions, apply adhesive to both the veneer and the base. To do this, use a construction brush or spatula. On large surfaces it is more advisable to use contact aerosol glue. This will reduce the time of application of the composition, and the raw material will receive a slightly viscous structure.

Leave the parts for a while, allowing binder grab. Using wax paper placed between the materials, determine correct position veneer relative to the base. Remove the paper. Glue the surfaces together, moving from the center to the edge of the base. Smooth the surface using a smoothing blade. Run your hand over the surface of the veneer to make sure it is flat and there are no trapped air bubbles between the veneer and the substrate.

Turn the workpiece upside down cutting surface and cut the veneer using razor knife, using the edges of the base as a guide. Leave the product for sufficient time for the adhesive to fully contact.

Health and Safety

Contact adhesive is one product that contains dangerous ingredients. Therefore, when working with it, the following precautions must be observed:

1. In case of accidental contact with eyes or skin, rinse affected area a large number water and seek medical attention.
2. The product is harmful if swallowed and does not cause vomiting. To avoid toxic poisoning, seek prompt medical attention.
3. Work with glue in a well-ventilated area. Inhalation of volatile vapors from any product containing solvents without adequate ventilation may result in eye inflammation, weakness, fatigue, nausea, headache or dizziness.

Remember, choosing the right type of adhesive depends on the material you want to glue.

In order to update some interior details, you don’t always need to spend a lot of money; it’s enough to simply cover them with veneer. This applies, first of all, to shelves, doorways in the form of an arch, cornices and much more. At the same time, it is important not only to choose the right quality finishing material, but also the adhesive composition. Next, we’ll look at what glue to use to glue veneer, as well as how to do it correctly at home.

Preparatory work

First of all, it should be noted that the interior items on which the veneer will be glued must be made of chipboard, plywood or furniture boards(mostly made of wood). Their surface should not be greasy, have resin stains, knots, cracks or chips. Existing defects must be filled with wood putty and then thoroughly sanded. Before filling, knots must be removed and, if necessary, a rough surface must be created for better gluing, which can be easily done using a special plane with fine teeth.

What to do with veneer?

After preparing the base, you can proceed to preparing the veneer itself (see video). So, you need to unpack it all and select sheets whose pictures are similar. This is necessary in order to finished product it looked as natural as possible. After marking, the sheets are cut. This can be done at home using a sharp knife and a ruler. When working with veneer, you need to know that it can be simple and figured. Simple sheets are considered to be those on which the fibers are arranged in parallel, while figured sheets are those with the help of which you can obtain various interesting figures.

Pasting methods

The base on which the sheets will be glued must be degreased, after which it is covered with glue for gluing the veneer. The most popular method of gluing sheets is tightly. The glue for it is made thick and applied hot. You need to make sure that it dries on the base, because otherwise the adhesive solution may appear on the surface, especially if the veneer is very thin. After the contact adhesive for the veneer has started to set, it’s time to lap the sheets. This is done using a special lapping hammer, which is constantly moved in the direction of the fibers.

The grinding process begins in the middle of the sheet, gradually moving the tool heated to 85°C to the edges, while removing excess glue. It is advisable to wet the veneer during operation. warm water. This is done so that the adhesive solution does not have time to dry too quickly. If it happens that not all of the base was covered with veneer glue, bubbles may form, to eliminate which you will have to cut the sheet with a blade and inject a small amount under it. adhesive composition. After this, the veneer is processed again with a lapping hammer or a warm iron. Thus, you can quite easily glue veneer at home.

Which glue is better?

It is very easy to get confused among the variety of adhesive solutions. What glue is best for gluing veneer to plywood or other similar material (see photo). Very often, when gluing sheets tightly, ordinary PVA glue is used. But it is only suitable for flat surfaces. More complex elements can only be done using more reliable compounds, for example, an adhesive solution for wooden surfaces Titebond. But it is worth noting that it does not cost that little. In addition to the above compounds, veneer can also be glued using polyurethane, epoxy, as well as soluble hide or liquid hide glue.

It is best to start sanding the base for veneer with fine construction sandpaper and finish with fine sandpaper.

The color of the veneer sheets must be selected so that they harmoniously combine with wallpaper, furniture, etc.

Very interesting are the patterns left from sheets that are made from various breeds tree.

With the cold dyeing method, the coating of sheets at home turns out to be more uniform and stable.

After staining the veneer, it must be washed under running water, then dry in a warm place, but away from direct sunlight.