What to make a knife sharpener from. How to sharpen your knife to razor sharpness yourself. Professional electric knife sharpening machines

Every housewife dreams of sharp knives. It is difficult to do without such cutting tools in the kitchen. Not everyone succeeds correct sharpening: I seem to have tried, but the knife still doesn’t cut well or quickly becomes dull. Often the cause of this is improper sharpening. You can get out of this situation if you use a knife sharpening machine.

Modification of sharpeners

Sold in stores large number all kinds of devices and machines, ranging from the simplest to automatic machines. However, many of them either do not bring sharpening to the final goal, or are too expensive. All machines can be divided into three categories:

  • superhard;
  • hard;
  • soft.

To sharpen the tool, you need to manually move it over the abrasive, achieving the desired effect. Many people use this method, but not everyone succeeds. The reason is that for proper sharpening, the sharpening angle must be strictly observed. It depends on the hardness and volume of the material being cut.

For the tools below The following angles in degrees must be maintained:

  • razors - 8-12;
  • blades for cutting fillets - 10-15;
  • kitchen knives - 15-20;
  • hunting tools - 20-25;
  • heavy knives (for example, machetes) - 30-50.

The next thing you need to pay attention to when sharpening knives is the grain size of the abrasive material. To sharpen very dull knives, abrasives with coarser grains are used. This will help remove excess metal faster. When leveling the surface, use medium emery stones, and for grinding you need very fine grain. Usually On sanding wheels and bars the abrasive size is indicated in numbers:

  • 300-350 - very large, used for pruning;
  • 400-500 - average, allows for basic sharpening;
  • 600-700 - shallow, you can level the blade on it;
  • 1000-1200 - very fine, with its help it is possible to polish the tool.

To sharpen a knife by hand, place a block or emery wheel and secure it. The cutting tool is held on the abrasive with the blade facing away from you, and set at the desired angle. At first they use a protractor. Subsequently, when certain experience appears, it will be possible to do without it.

They begin to sharpen the blade, strictly ensuring that the angle is maintained. This kind of work requires attention and experience, so it may not work out right away. It will be much more convenient to do it if you make your own device for sharpening knives. A self-assembled product will cost much less.

Use of machines

The simplest device that can be made at home is wooden corner. A block will be placed in it. The base is made in the form of a box, the size of which is selected according to the abrasive. The second side of the corner has the same shape and is attached to vertical position. To make the device more stable, the base is connected to a wide board.

A block is inserted vertically into the device. In this position the angle is 0°. To create the desired slope, the lower edge of the abrasive begins to be moved away from the vertical, the angle is measured with a protractor. To prevent the block from “moving”, a stop is placed at the bottom (you can simply screw in a screw). To sharpen, the blade is moved along the sandpaper strictly in a vertical plane. For fine processing and grinding, the bars are changed. Since the stone is ground unevenly, they constantly need to be leveled using harder stones. Using sandpaper eliminates such hassle.

To do this, you need to take sandpaper with coarse, medium and fine grain, as well as a leather belt. A block of wood is cut to the size of the abrasive and processed with sandpaper. One blank is made from a leather belt. Each face of the bar is numbered, and numbers are placed near the top and bottom edges. A tape with a large grain is glued to the plane numbered 1, 2 - with a medium grain, 3 - with a fine grain, 4 - leather from a belt.

The tapes are attached indented from the edge. Thanks to this, the numbers will be visible, and the block will fit into the grooves of the box. They begin to sharpen the blade from 1 or 2 and then move on to the next edges. As the sandpaper wears out, it is cut off with a knife and a new one is glued on. Compared to bars, paper is much cheaper.

This device can be modified. The vertical stand is attached to the base through a hinge so that it can tilt back, increasing the sharpening angle. On the side where the stand tilts, a stop is placed, for example, two plates fastened together through longitudinal slots with a wing bolt or nut. In this case, the lower edge of the bar will be motionless.

Convenient designs

Although the designs described above have a number of advantages, they have one significant drawback - you need to constantly monitor the vertical of the blade, and this is tedious. It is much easier to work with an electric machine for processing kitchen tools.

Emery, as the device for sharpening knives is called, makes the task much easier. The blade is brought to the circle so that it is directed against its rotation. But even in this case, it is necessary to monitor the sharpening angle.

To make it easier to work, you can make a wooden stand. It consists of two parts: the base and the corner itself. The support helps raise the knife to the desired height; another workpiece with an inclined platform is placed on it; it is this that will give the necessary tilt to the blade. You can make several such corners, they will be designed for different ways sharpening. To fix the guide, you can use nails without heads. They are driven into the base, leaving 10-15 mm, covered with paint, and a corner is placed on top. The painted areas are drilled with a drill of the same diameter as the nails.

The device works well when there is no casing covering the emery stone, but it is not entirely safe. In the case of using protection, you can use another sharpening stand. On the side of the electric sharpener, a wooden block with a vertical slot for the knife is installed. The height is selected so that the angle of the blade being sharpened corresponds to the required condition. The knife is inserted into the cutout and slides along it.

This electric sharpener has a significant drawback - it is difficult to set the sharpening angle. To get rid of it, the design should be complicated. To do this, a three-arm holder with the ability to adjust the angle is installed. It is attached directly to the sandpaper, but can also be used as independent device. To make such a device, you need skills and special machines, and this is not suitable for everyone.

Another disadvantage is that when using an electric knife sharpening machine, the stone is ground down. It will have to be constantly adjusted during operation to make the blade sharp. In addition, with this method, the sandpaper is used irrationally; it has to be changed, throwing away a significant part of the abrasive.

Homemade devices

Some owners use a manual knife sharpening machine with an adjustable sharpening angle. The essence of such a device comes down to the fact that one of the elements (knife or abrasive) is in a stationary state, while the other is made to reciprocate. Two groups of such machines can be distinguished:

  • with fixed abrasive;
  • with fixed blade.

The first group includes a trolley machine. The abrasive is installed on a flat surface. Treated stone or thick glass can be used as such a surface. To make the holder, a board 2-3 cm thick is cut out, its length should be approximately 1.5 times greater than the abrasive material, the width does not play a decisive role. For best view and a flat surface is treated with a plane and sandpaper. Along the long edges, stops are nailed and glued to provide strength.

Then you should make the wedges. To do this, take the treated board again and cut out a rectangle. Its thickness should be equal to the height of the abrasive material, the length should approximately correspond to the width of the holder. To calculate the width of the device, you need to subtract the length of the abrasive and the width of the two stops from the length of the holder.

When assembled, you get the following picture: an abrasive and a wedge should fit on the holder between two stops. After this, the rectangle is cut diagonally, but not from corner to corner, but with a slight indentation, so that triangles with cut off vertices are obtained.

When the wedge and abrasive are placed in the holder, they begin to lightly hit the bases of the triangles with a hammer. These parts must slide over each other, their overall width increases, and the abrasive is clamped. To prevent the holder from moving on the glass, its bottom is covered with thin rubber.

The dolly will allow the knife to move while maintaining a constant angle. The wheels can be anything, you can use bearings, the main thing is that they are smooth. A guide with a blade holder is attached to the trolley. Here too There are two ways to adjust the sharpening angle:

  • changing the height of the abrasive;
  • turning the guide with the blade (in this case the cart must have 4 wheels).

In the second option, you can use a rotating mechanism.

Other models

Machine tools in which the tool being processed is stationary have become very popular. A kitchen or other knife is mounted on an inclined platform. Reliable fastening is obtained by using a magnet; all kinds of clamps (spring or threaded) are also widely used.

A rod is attached to the platform on the opposite side of the knife. It is allowed to use a steel rod with a diameter of 8 mm. The inclination of the platform is selected so that it approximately corresponds to the desired angle of the tool being sharpened. A clamp is attached to the rod, which can be moved if necessary, thereby more accurately setting the angle. A guide moves freely in it - the same metal rod as the rod. For better sliding, a plastic or nylon bushing is inserted into the clamp.

At the other end of the guide (near the tool being sharpened) there are two brackets that are tightened with a nut or wing. A block is inserted into them and secured with a wing or nut.

The machine operates as follows: a blade is placed in the clamps on the inclined platform, the block is tightened with brackets on the guide, and the desired angle is set using the clamp. The angle is measured with a protractor mounted on the blade. The bar begins to make forward movements, processing the entire surface. During grinding, the abrasive is moved in only one direction - from the heel to the blade.

Another machine uses a trapezoid. The long sides are made of steel bars connected to each other wooden blocks. One rod is attached through a bearing to rotary mechanism, the other is a guide along which the block moves freely. The knife stand is installed under the carriage on a flat surface. If the first rod of the trapezoid gets in the way when sharpening the tool, the stand can be raised higher.

Thin paper, such as newspaper, will help determine the quality of sharpening. You need to try to cut strips out of it with quick and smooth movements. If this succeeds, then the blade is sharpened correctly.

Having a sharpening machine at home solves many sharpening problems. metal equipment, but, alas, the cost of such a machine is quite high. How to design a homemade one sharpening machine Let's look at it further.

Functional features of operation and structure of the sharpening machine

A sharpening machine is used to sharpen a variety of steel products. This unit consists of a frame to which an electric motor is attached. The engine is mounted with an axis shift of 1.5°. A unit with a grinding device is attached to the motor shaft. If you move the unit manually, it is possible to sharpen the part in the horizontal and vertical direction.

The guide, which is located on two column parts, carries out horizontal feeding. It moves thanks to the presence of a worm-type transmission, which is located on the frame. A dial device is attached to the end part of the worm shaft, which performs direct movement of the grinding wheel.

Longitudinal feeding should be done manually, by moving the part that can be sharpened. The mandrel is another part of the sharpening machine that is attached to the stands. The nodal holder is fixed thanks to the presence of clamping screws.

The holder contains a handle that allows the part to pass through the machine. To carry out circular sharpening of the part, there is a hole to which an attachment is attached that allows you to sharpen knives. On the holding device there is a component at hand, with the help of which the tool is sharpened.

Depending on the type of work being done on a sharpening machine, there are several fundamental differences in the way tools are sharpened. Highlight:

  • sharpening using a holding device;
  • radius sharpening option with an attachment;
  • sharpening with a tool.

The first option allows you to process a completely flat canvas with a straight edge. It includes availability:

  • manual plane,
  • jointers,
  • metal planer plates,
  • chopped,
  • chisel

Before starting work, you should pay attention to the location of the slider. It should be installed in the extreme left position. Next, the part is secured using a U-shaped bracket, fixation and clamping screws. The edge that chamfers must be parallel to the working end of the grinding wheel. The gap between these parts should be 0.1-0.2 cm.

Then the device is turned on and sharpening is performed. The person working with the part must ensure that it comes into easy contact with the grinding wheel. At the same time left hand is responsible for the rotation of the transverse gear, and the right one moves the part longitudinally. The movement of the part occurs exclusively along the working end of the grinding wheel.

During radius-type sharpening, an attachment part is used to ensure an extraordinary sharpening on a tool with cutting-type edges.

If sharpening is done using an attachment, the clamping brackets and fixing screws are disconnected. The attachment axis is installed on the center of the machine and then secured with a clamp screw.

If the attachment rotates easily, it means it is installed correctly. Next, you need to fix the holder and move the slider to the middle of the grinding machine.

Advantages and scope of use of the sharpening machine

Grinding machines of electromechanical type have a large number advantages compared to manual devices:

1. Ability to carry out many sharpening operations various instruments independently, without the involvement of a specialist.

2. Long term operation allows you to use the sharpening machine for 10-15 years.

3. Mechanization of the sharpening process saves time and makes the process easier.

4. The ease of use of the sharpening machine allows even a non-professional to perform a variety of sharpening and grinding operations on metal parts.

5. Another advantage of this device is the possibility of it self-made: This will save you a lot of money on the purchase of this device.

6. Universal type sharpening machines are characterized by high productivity and operating efficiency.

There are sharpening machines that can sharpen only one tool, and universal sharpening machines that are suitable for sharpening almost any type of equipment.

Sharpening machines are capable of sharpening knives, chainsaws, drills, cutters, cutters, cutters, and broaches. They also carry out internal and external grinding of metal surfaces.

Sharpening of any tool is required almost anywhere, and therefore the scope of use of the sharpening machine is quite wide. They are used both in the private sector, in garages, service stations, workshops and in large industrial installations.

Main types of sharpening machines

In accordance with the method and subject of sharpening, machines are distinguished:

  • universal type,
  • specialized type.

The universal sharpening machine allows you to process parts different types. They are equipped with regular and special devices that secure and secure a variety of tools. Such machines are capable of grinding: reamers, shaped cutters, cutters, drills, dies, etc.

A specialized sharpening machine differs from a universal one in its ability to sharpen parts of only one type. They are highly productive because they do not require constant replacement. structural elements. Specialized machines are characterized by more precise quality of processing of parts. Such machines are used in enterprises that grind parts or spare parts, or in the case when sharpening at universal machine is inaccurate.

Universal type machines do an excellent job of sharpening blade equipment such as cutters, cutters and reamers. They provide the ability to process gear cutting heads, cutters or hobs.

Specialized sharpening machines are divided into machines:

  • for chainsaws,
  • for drills,
  • for knives, etc.

Sharpening machines for chainsaws are divided into two types: electric and manual. Sharpening on a manual machine involves precise sharpening of the chain. It is possible to fix the position of the file, so all the teeth are sharp and have the same size.

Workshops specializing in sharpening chainsaws use equipment electric type. It includes a sharpening disc that can be adjusted to precisely indicate the angle for sharpening.

DIY universal sharpening machine

To manufacture a sharpening machine, you will need an electric motor whose power does not exceed 1 kW, two pulleys, and bearings with a shaft.

These parts are mounted on a frame, which is most easily made from steel angles.

For the tool rest, you need to build a rotating bar that adjusts the inclination of the part in relation to the grinding wheel.

During the sharpening process, the part should be positioned so that it has minimal contact with the wheel. Gradually bring her closer.

The grinding machine design is based on the correct calculations for installing the grinding wheel and tool rest.

1. With protective casing the gap circle should be closed.

2. When working with the machine, use safety glasses to protect yourself from getting splinters in your eyes.

3. The maximum distance between the plate and the grinding wheel is 0.3cm.

4. The length of the flanges responsible for the clamp must be no less than a quarter of the diameter of the circle.

5. A paronite gasket should be installed in the nut-flange space; it will ensure tightening of the nut on the shaft section.

DIY drill sharpening machine

To save on purchasing a machine for drill sharpening, try making it yourself.

To do this you will need:

  • toggle switch,
  • grinding wheel,
  • plugs,
  • powerful electric motor,
  • stands,
  • electrical wires,

To protect yourself while working, it is recommended to install the machine on a frame that will be closed, only visible from the outside grinding wheel and axis.

This unit will operate from the mains. Best place to install such a machine - a steel table.

Sharpening machine instructions:

1. Place the grain disk onto the motor shaft. If the diameter of the disk does not match the diameter of the shaft, use a washer.

2. Then secure them with a fastening nut or use a special attachment that will ensure reliable sharpening of the drill.

3. If the shaft size is smaller than the disk size, a bushing is required. It is attached to the shaft with a bolt into a pre-prepared hole.

Tip: When choosing an electric motor, a device from an old washing machine would be an excellent option.

4. The next step involves connecting the motor to the wires and socket. It is possible to use wires from old unnecessary electrical appliances.

5. Connect the wire to the starter. It must have three open contacts. Connect them in such a way that you can easily turn the machine on and off using a button.

6. To protect the electric motor from dirt and dust, a protective box should be made for it.

Knife sharpening machine: manufacturing instructions

Let's consider several options for making homemade sharpening machines with which you can sharpen a knife.

The first option is a manual machine. To make it you will need:

  • wooden planks or boards,
  • screws,
  • whetstone for sharpening.

Take two wooden squares and fasten them with screws, and insert a block between them. It must fit securely into the device. The angle size is calculated in relation to the required sharpening angle of the knife.

The main disadvantage of such a device is that the angle of the bar cannot be adjusted. The entire structure needs to be disassembled.

Another option consists of a threaded washer that holds the block in a secure position. Use heat shrink tubing to cover the threads.

Use the two paper clips to secure the stand to the desired height. Thus, holding the beam in your hand, independently select the required level of inclination and sharpen.

Another option manual machine will allow you to sharpen not only knives, but also chisels and planes. Secure the device to be sharpened into the block. The choice of sharpening angle depends on the angle at which the block will be positioned in relation to the tool. To ensure ease of sharpening and protect the surface from damage, place under this device wooden board or glass.

Sharpening knives with your own hands is a painstaking procedure due to the hardness of the products being cut, the frequency of use of the tool, and the thickness cutting edge.

The need for surgery arises regardless of the quality of the blade. How to do this at home? Let's try to figure it out.

Why do you need to sharpen knives? Is it possible to do it yourself?

Any housewife knows that sharpening knives is very important: working with a blunt tool is not only difficult, but also dangerous. The process slows down significantly and requires serious effort, as a result of which the muscles of the hand quickly tire. In addition, the blade is capable of jumping off at the most crucial moment and causing injury.

You can take the product to a workshop, where they will quickly sharpen it for you. But where is the guarantee that the work will be done correctly and the blade will not be damaged? In addition, this service is far from free and requires significant time. And sometimes this is really lacking when preparing for a celebration, for example, in order to prepare dinner on time. If you have a knife sharpening machine at home, you won’t have to go anywhere. The quality will depend only on your skills, the tools and devices used.

Why do knives lose their sharpness?

No matter how high-quality the steel of the blade is, sooner or later any knife will become dull. Why is this happening?

In the process of interacting with the material being cut, the cutting edge loses microscopic fragments of steel. At the same time, its shape changes, and the blade loses its sharpness.

In addition, such a process causes deformation of the blade. When cutting food, we apply force, which almost always deviates in one direction or another. Of course, if this were the only reason, then there would be no need to sharpen knives so often. Another detail is important, the influence of which on the severity is much more significant.

It is almost impossible to maintain the direction in accordance with the plane of the blade. As a result of this, the thinned edge is slightly curved, and it becomes much more difficult for the knife to overcome the resistance of the material being cut. This process occurs especially quickly if the blade is made of low-quality steel.

There is a point of view that hot water can dull the blade. To some extent this is true. During contact with steel, salts dissolved in water react with the metal, causing a change in its properties far beyond better side. But such an impact is not decisive and does not have serious significance.

Basic principles of knife sharpening

There are several sharpening methods. The choice depends on the time you have, the purpose of the knife, and the tools and accessories available.

The general principles are:

  • initial processing is carried out with coarse abrasive;
  • subsequent grinding is performed with fine-grained material;
  • For final finishing, leather or various pastes of varying degrees of abrasiveness are used.

To make work easier, you can use purchased or homemade device for sharpening knives.

At what angle should knives be sharpened?

The sharpening angle mainly depends on their purpose and, accordingly, the quality of the material from which they are made. What sharpening angle should be used for knives designed for various needs is indicated in the table:

In some cases, the angle can be reduced to 15º if the tool is used for a special purpose, for example, slicing fresh baked goods.

Materials used

Do-it-yourself manual knife sharpeners can be made using bars of varying degrees of abrasiveness. The latter are conventionally divided into the following groups:

  • the roughest, which is not used in this case (from 200 to 250);
  • coarse - to form a profile cutting blade blade. If no visible defects are detected, such stones are not used (from 300 to 350);
  • medium - like those listed above, are used infrequently, mainly for rough adjustment of the blade profile (from 400 to 500);
  • small - the main type of stones used for sharpening knives (from 600 to 700);
  • very small - used to bring an already sharpened blade to a mirror-like appearance.

These stones are made from various materials. A do-it-yourself hand sharpener can be made from natural and artificial bars. Natural - from natural stone(corundum, slate, etc.). Artificial - from synthetic materials or diamond. Moreover, natural ones wear out more and are not very grainy.

Before use, it is preferable to moisten the bars with water or soap solution.

Please note: You should use a block that has a length significantly greater than the blade being sharpened.

In addition to abrasive bars, the following can be used:

  • homemade devices that serve as their holder;
  • knife sharpening machines;
  • mechanical sharpeners;
  • musats are devices for fine-tuning a sharpened blade and are several metal disks nested one inside the other.

This list may be expanded. We have provided only the main tools used.

Manual sharpening rules

In order to sharpen the cutting edge correctly, you must follow the specified sequence of actions:

  1. at the initial stage, we carry out the work with a medium or coarse grain block, depending on the condition of the blade; it would be more correct to secure the block from displacement;
  2. determine the required sharpening angle; on each side of the blade, its size is half of the total; the main thing is to keep this angle unchanged;
  3. movements should not be jerky; no significant effort should be made;
  4. The initial move is made from yourself, the edge should pass along the entire length of the block. Please note: when contacting the block, the blade must be directed at a right angle to the direction of movement;
  5. at the point where the blade is rounded, it should be rotated to maintain the desired angle;
  6. when completing the movement, the blade should not leave the block, because this may cause it to become dull or damage the side surface;
  7. then we move in the opposite direction;
  8. We continue the sequence of these operations until a thin bending strip appears on the blade; when checking its presence, you cannot run your finger along the blade, because you can easily get hurt on the sharp edges; if the knife is sharpened correctly, this edge should be the same width throughout the entire blade;
  9. turn the tool over and repeat the operations until a similar result;
  10. we take a smaller whetstone and sharpen it further, but we no longer move towards ourselves - only in the forward direction; since the grain size of the bar is smaller, the size of the burr along the edge is also reduced;
  11. We process the reverse side in the same way;
  12. we repeat these operations on both sides on an even smaller stone; if the burr still remains, remove it with the finest-grained stone; We remind you that movements are still carried out in one direction - away from you; We reduce the clamping force towards the end of the operation.

Sharpening is finished. It is also possible to finalize the blade on a leather strip. An old belt will do just fine.

How to make a homemade device

It is quite possible to make a machine for sharpening knives at home yourself. Let's look at some of them.

Option No. 1: the blade is fixed on a stationary platform

This device helps sharpen the blade, ensuring the required edge angle. Below is a tool for sharpening knives with your own hands. Drawings and drawings.

A homemade knife sharpener can be made in the same way as shown in the figure.

The principle of operation and design are clear. The manufacturing sequence is as follows:

  1. the base can be chipboard or steel plate; it is marked and drilled out for the stand and blade holder;
  2. on the side of the base opposite to the mounting of the rack, a hole is drilled for an M8 bolt to attach the knife clamp;
  3. two M10 studs are made: one for the stand, the second for the holder for the abrasive stone;
  4. a bracket is made for attaching the holder stud to the stand (by drilling and bending a steel or aluminum plate;
  5. the brackets for the sharpening stone holder itself are made from two corners;
  6. a clamp for the blade is made;
  7. The structure is assembled in the form shown in the figure.

This device has one drawback: it is not able to provide a right angle between the movement being performed and the blade of the blade at the point where it is rounded.

Option No. 2: with a movable platform and a magnetic holder

This problem is solved using the following construction. It is performed in a similar way, but a magnetic holder is used to attach the knife. Thus, it is possible to move the magnetic holder with the blade installed in it and rotate it to the required angle. This knife sharpening device is equipped with a plate at the base or can be attached to the table, as shown in the photo.

It will greatly facilitate the process of sharpening knives.

How to sharpen jointer knives with your own hands

Any man who has such equipment in his home has had to deal with sharpening his knives. To accomplish this, special devices and abrasives are used. Certainly, if the machine is frequently used, it is advisable to have the necessary device at home. Let's look at how to make it yourself.

How to make a machine for sharpening a jointer knife yourself (step-by-step instructions)

To make a sharpening machine with your own hands to sharpen this knife, you will need to select the necessary parts:

  • plan-washer;
  • bed;
  • electric motor;
  • vacuum cleaner;
  • fencing.

Manufacturing is carried out as follows:

  1. The electric motor is mounted directly under the frame; You should definitely take care of equipping it with “stop” and “start” control buttons;
  2. A plan washer is installed on the output shaft, which is closed by a square guard with a cut-out groove;
  3. On the bottom plane of the table there is a hole the size of a vacuum cleaner sleeve, the latter is designed to remove dust generated during sharpening.

What you need to know

The electric motor may not necessarily be secured under the base of the washer. It is possible to use a belt drive, but this will complicate the design.

Using this machine you can also sharpen axes and saws.

Ice screw sharpening

The sharpness of the ice drill allows the fisherman not to put effort into drilling holes in the ice during winter fishing. But for this it is necessary to sharpen the knives of this device.

Sharpening methods are quite varied. One of them is to use a self-made tool.

How to make a machine for an ice drill with your own hands

Two steel strips with a thickness of 4 mm and dimensions of 60x200 mm are required. You can use automotive spring steel, but it is difficult to bend. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a different material.

Work progress

First, the frame of the device is completed. The strips are bent so that the knife chamfers, which are pressed against the edges of the rounding, are at the same level and parallel to each other.

Then a clamp for the items being sharpened is made from another strip.

Holes are made in the plate and body. The pressure plate is attached to the body with a bolt connection, clamping the knives. It is checked how tightly they adhere to the surface of the end part of the abrasive wheel.

If the angle of the knives is incorrect, the device should be modified by bending the arc of the body. After making sure of the correct placement, we disassemble the device and weld the stiffeners to the body arch.

It is better to place the emery wheel horizontally, this ensures water retention on its surface. Cooling the knives with water will prevent the steel from overheating when sharpening.

Disadvantage of the device

The disadvantage of this machine is that it cannot be used if the chamfers on the knives are located under different angles. Since different ice auger manufacturers have different designs, a universal tool can be a big help.

Making a universal device for sharpening an ice drill

It overcomes the above obstacle. The knives are adjusted with screws, and there is also the possibility reliable fixation in different positions relative to the abrasive wheel.

This device will require door hinge with a minimum stroke and an M8 screw with a nut. Holes with a diameter of up to 7 mm are drilled on the shelves of the canopy to secure the knives.

Made from a metal strip 3 mm thick clamping bar with groove for clamping screw. They are welded to the canopy slats.

Additionally, you can drill a few more holes for greater versatility of the device, so that non-standard knives can be sharpened.

How to sharpen planer knives

This equipment is also widely used at home. It allows you to bring untreated lumber to the required condition. Naturally, knives for woodworking machines need to be sharpened periodically.

To make the necessary devices, you will need different materials: steel, wood, etc.

The clamp itself is made of wood. Grooves are made on it at 45º. Knives are edited using a belt grinder or an abrasive stone.

It is important to maintain the exact angle - this ensures correct processing.

Sharpening with an electric sharpener

Equipment equipped with an electric drive greatly facilitates the work and reduces the duration of the process. But such devices require precision movements and work experience.

A do-it-yourself electric knife sharpener is made with an installed tool rest to support the work being sharpened, with the ability to adjust the gap between it and the abrasive wheel.

Please note: A protective shield must be equipped to protect the eyes from dust.

Processing is performed with the front surface of the circle. Its side faces cannot be used. The knife is placed on the tool rest with the cutting edge up and held along the axis of the product. The movement is carried out evenly, smoothly, without strong pressure.

After sharpening on both sides, the final finishing of the cutting edge should be done with fine-grained stones until the bend of the edge of the blade completely disappears.

Of course, you can make a knife yourself, but specialized sharpeners are offered for sale that are absolutely safe and allow you to freely sharpen knives for any purpose.

To do this, after turning on the device, the knife is inserted into the desired slot and evenly drawn along it until the edge is completely sharpened.

These devices provide excellent sharpening quality. Their disadvantage is the inability to adjust the angle of the cutting edge.

Useful video: ideas for sharpening knives


Whatever equipment and tools you use, the main thing is to maintain safety when performing this operation. Remember that it is much easier to cut yourself with a dull knife than with a sharp one. Therefore, let the knives in your home always be sharpened.

Every housewife sooner or later begins to get dull knives with which she cuts bread, vegetables or cuts meat. Using a dull knife is not only inconvenient, but also unsafe. It can fall off the product being cut at any time and cause injury. Therefore, the tool should be periodically sharpened using a special device for sharpening knives.

A wide range of such sharpening devices are offered in stores. But for one reason or another, they do not always suit the consumer. In this case, you can make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands, having previously studied the types of sharpening stones, the features of the tool and the proposed drawings.

Sharpening knives - necessary conditions

For efficient and long-term use of the knife the most important factor when sharpening it is angle between blade edges. During the sharpening process, it is necessary to restore the previously specified angle, which will fully comply with technological standards and quickly, freely and efficiently cut the material.

Each blade has its own optimal angle:

  • for a razor and scalpel, the sharpening angle should be 10–15 degrees;
  • knives for cutting bread, fruits and vegetables are sharpened at an angle of 15–20 degrees;
  • multifunctional knives for various products are processed at an angle of 20–25 degrees;
  • hunting and camping knives - at an angle of 25–30 degrees;
  • cutting knives hard materials- 30–40 degrees.

Without a special device, it is difficult to sharpen the blade at the desired angle. While holding the knife with your hands, it is quite difficult to ensure required tilt angle cutting tool. To facilitate this process, there are special devices that you can make with your own hands. Their designs are quite simple, and the manufacturing itself does not take much time.

There are many types of knife sharpeners, from which you can choose the one that best suits your needs.

All devices consist of two parts:

  • a block of abrasive material;
  • stop for attaching the knife.

You can use ready-made special stones as a bar or make it yourself.

Sharpening stones - types and manufacture

There are several types of stones on sale:

    Water tools. When working with them, water is used, which saves the surface of the stone.

    Oil The structure and shape of the stone resembles that of water, but its surface is the most oily.

    Natural instruments are made from natural stones, which undergo industrial processing.

    Artificial stones are made from non-natural components.

    Rubber tools can also be found on sale, but working with them is not very convenient.

To make your own abrasive stone, you can use small glass plates rectangular shape and a thickness of 4–5 millimeters. You need to stick different grain sizes onto the surface of the plates using double-sided tape. sandpaper. The cost of such bars will be quite small, and the sandpaper can be replaced at any time.

However, when using a glass bar, you should be very careful carefully tighten the nuts, otherwise the glass may crack. In addition, no water is used when using it, so the abrasive wears out quickly. For the same reason, when sharpening knives, you should avoid rapid movements, which can lead to overheating of the material, and, therefore, to the loss of the properties of the blade.

Device for sharpening from wooden blocks

It is enough to simply make a sharpening tool from two wooden and two abrasive bars, which should be the same size.

For greater stability of the sharpening device to its lower surface, it is recommended attach a piece of rubber.

Do-it-yourself sharpener from mounting corners

The basis for this device is a Lansky sharpener, drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet.

Required materials and tools:

  • metal plates measuring 4x11 centimeters;
  • standard aluminum corners;
  • metal rods about 15 centimeters long;
  • set of nuts and bolts;
  • a sharpening machine with a vice or a file;
  • needle file

Instead of a sharpening machine, you can use a file, since this tool is only needed for grinding off sharp corners and cleaning the metal cutting areas.

Stages of making a sharpener:

  1. According to the drawing, markings are made for future holes in the plates.
  2. The holes are drilled and threaded.
  3. Using a file, all sharp corners and edges are rounded. This will allow you to comfortably use the made knife.
  4. Holes are made in the corner in accordance with the drawing.
  5. The hole for the spoke support is expanded using a needle file.
  6. The holes for the studs are threaded.
  7. The rods are inserted into the outer holes and secured with nuts of the appropriate diameter (M6).
  8. An M8 bolt is screwed into the wider hole, the length of which should be about 14 centimeters. A wing nut must first be screwed onto it, on top of which two ordinary nuts are screwed. The bolt in the structure will be used as a support post.
  9. Bolts are attached to the remaining holes, with which the knife will be clamped.
  10. Nuts are screwed onto the ends of the rods, a corner is threaded, which is fixed with the help of nuts. By lowering or raising the rods, you can adjust the sharpening angle.
  11. A thin metal rod in the shape of the letter L, a rod with an M6 thread, two holders and a wing nut are used to assemble a device that will hold the sharpening stone. The outermost holder must have a through hole for the knitting needle.

This knife sharpening device has a fairly wide range of pressing angle degrees and is most convenient to use.

The problem of dull knives is familiar firsthand to many owners who are forced to constantly hand over kitchen utensils to craftsmen for sharpening. Meanwhile, solving it is much easier than it seems, because you can make a knife sharpener with your own hands, using the available tools. This will save money on the purchase of a ready-made device or the services of professional workshops.

All about knife sharpeners

The easiest way to help owners get rid of the hassle associated with handing over knives to workshops is to purchase a sharpening stone. However, this option can only become optimal if it is possible to select a timber with the “correct” abrasiveness. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the main characteristics of the selected materials.

Choosing a quality stone

Sharpening stones, more often referred to as stones, have their own classification, familiarization with which will help you choose the most suitable material. And if the owner manages to avoid the most common mistakes, then it can be used in the future as in independent form, and as the main component of a homemade sharpening machine. So, The following gradations of grain size are distinguished:

One more distinctive feature sharpening stones is their color, because the darker the shade of the selected stone, the greater the level of abrasiveness it will have and vice versa, light colors indicate the fine grain of the coating and its domestic purpose. It is worth noting that the performance of sharpening done by yourself directly depends on the choice of this element.

It is recommended to pay attention to the quality of the selected material, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages. Thus, there are timber of natural origin from slate and corundum rocks, as well as stone for turning diamond and ceramic types. Among the disadvantages of the first option, it is worth highlighting the high grain size and rapid wear due to the need to constantly wet the surface of the stone to form a special composition that automatically increases the abrasive qualities of the device.

That is why it is better to leave your choice on an artificial sharpening stone, the length of which will exceed the length of the cutter blade, which greatly facilitates the processing procedure. In addition, you can select a beam whose ribs will have to varying degrees abrasiveness, which will allow you to carry out the procedure of main and final sharpening at home.

There are several types hand sharpeners for knives with your own hands different designs and the degree of difficulty in manufacturing. Naturally, the simpler the arrangement of such home appliances, the less comfortable it will be to use at home and vice versa, a large number of components allows you to create very comfortable models sharpeners, which greatly facilitate the process of sharpening the blade.

This point should also be taken into account when determining optimal design devices. It is strongly recommended to take into account such an important indicator as the volume of work, because if the owner needs to process only a few kitchen cutters, then it hardly makes sense to choose a professional knife sharpener with drawings and three-dimensional modeling to make it yourself.

To make a knife sharpener with your own hands, You can take the following popular models as a basis:

Particularly popular is a knife sharpener that is quite easy to make with your own hands, the drawings with dimensions of which were developed by the famous Lansky company. And this option is optimal for independent design and further use at home.

Making a simple model yourself

The principle of operation of the device according to Lansky’s design boils down to the fact that the processing of a securely fixed blade is carried out at a strictly defined angle using replaceable nozzles whetstone, having different grain sizes, as a result of which it is possible to obtain a very sharp edge of the cutting element. The finished device costs about 1,500 thousand Russian rubles, but the simplicity of its manufacture and the minimum set of necessary parts is inspiring craftsmen to create more budget-friendly home-made analogues from available means at hand.

Step-by-step master class

To choose necessary materials It’s worth starting after preparing the dimensions and drawings necessary for making a homemade knife sharpener. To make the task as easy as possible, it is recommended to use finished projects, which can be found on almost any network resource. An example is assembly drawing, according to which you can independently make a Lansky-type sharpening machine.

In order to assemble such a structure, The master will have to prepare the following materials:

  • A metal rod that can be used to make studs marked M-6 of non-standard length.
  • An electrode of any brand intended for use in electric welding work. It is from this element that the corner guides are made after complete cleaning of flux and burrs, which is carried out using grained emery.
  • Carbon stainless steel with an average thickness of 3-5 millimeters, from which clamps with through holes are most easily made. It is worth noting that to make such holes you will need machine oil, which can then be removed by treating with a concentrated soap solution.
  • Metal corners of medium size (9 by 9 by 0.6 centimeters).

In addition, you will need nuts and other fasteners, the recommended markings of which can be found in the presented drawing. As for the processing of elements and their assembly into a single structure, this procedure involves performing the following algorithm of actions:

There are often cases when, during operation, certain imperfections of a homemade sharpener are revealed, although this is not a reason for frustration, because you can always make a correction, maximally optimizing the operation of the device and adjusting it to individual needs.

There are several important rules sharpening of knives, which must be observed regardless of how exactly this procedure will be carried out. This means the following subtleties and nuances:

  • Perpendicular placement of the blade in the direction of the whetstone while maintaining an angle equal to 1/2 of the sharpening value (the last condition is not mandatory).
  • The sharpening angle should vary from 20 to 25 degrees.
  • Start processing from the beginning of the blade, from its most blunt part. In this case, the edge can be painted black so as not to protrude beyond its limits when sharpening the blade.

During the turning process, characteristic transverse grooves tend to form on the edge of the blade. Their position relative to the base line of the cutting part must be perpendicular, because only then can it be said that the turning procedure was carried out correctly.



CATEGORIES

POPULAR ARTICLES

2024 “mobi-up.ru” - Garden plants. Interesting things about flowers. Perennial flowers and shrubs