DIY plasterboard window slopes. Construction and installation of plasterboard slopes Do-it-yourself plasterboard slopes for plastic

There are two main ways to make slopes from plasterboard (GKL) with your own hands: classic plaster and plasterboard.

Finishing slopes from plasterboard attracts with the speed of installation and low cost of the material.

Those who are building a house from scratch, and those who are renovating old premises, have the right to choose the most suitable one according to their taste. You need to think over and weigh which method will take less time, money and materials with the same quality.

The main advantages of plasterboard slopes

They are installed quickly, reliably, smoothly, beautifully. you get a cozy living room with excellent thermal insulation and noise-absorbing characteristics.

Required tools: 1 - construction glasses, 2 - level, 3 - hacksaw, 4 - metal scissors, 5 - pliers, 6 - side cutters, 7 - hammer, 8 - knife with a replaceable blade, tape measure.

If desired, anyone can install such slopes with their own hands, having the simplest construction skills and the necessary tools.

When making slopes, two methods are used. Drywall is attached to the frame or glued to old slopes.

Necessary tools and materials for installing plasterboard slopes:

hammer drill (if the walls are not wooden);
screwdriver or Phillips screwdriver;
plumb line or level;
grinder or metal scissors;
screws for metal or wood;
fine sandpaper;
square;
roulette;
pencil.

If this list of tools seems too long and incomprehensible to the owner planning to do the installation himself, he should invite a specialist.

Choosing drywall

Windows are a source of condensation, they are tested significant changes temperature. Therefore, it is advisable to make slopes from moisture-resistant plasterboard. If this is not possible, you can use a regular one, but first it needs to be primed several times on each side, and it is better to treat the inside with a moisture-repellent liquid. Slopes made of plasterboard do not experience special loads, so you can make them from thin plasterboard for the ceiling.

Installation of slopes on a metal profile frame

Windows are a source of condensation and experience significant temperature changes. Therefore, it is advisable to make slopes from moisture-resistant plasterboard.

In production today plastic windows profiles are used that provide for further installation of drywall. The choice of such a profile should be specified when ordering windows.

It is installed when installing the window in special grooves on the frame along the top and sides.
If it is not possible to purchase and install a special profile, you can use a regular profile for drywall.
Construction of the frame can begin when polyurethane foam After attaching plastic windows and window sills, it will completely harden.
The profile is screwed with metal screws at the junction of the frame and drywall.
If the wall is installed window will be sheathed with plasterboard, you need to install wall guide profiles so that they also serve as fastening strips for slopes.
You need to select the angle of rotation at which the slope will join the window frame, and move the guide profiles some distance outward from the window.

Installation of slopes with glue

Before installing plasterboard slopes, it is necessary to prepare the old slopes. To do this, the remains of whitewash, paint, putty, and dust are removed from them. The cracks in them can be repaired using tile adhesive or plaster mortar. The entire slope is primed with a brush. The adhesive can be applied when the primer is completely dry.

If the old slope is fairly level, you can use tile adhesive to glue the drywall strips to interior works. If there are large differences, you need to use Perlfix glue or similar.

Scheme for finishing slopes with plasterboard.

Balls are formed from the adhesive mass. The diameter depends on the gap between the drywall strip and the old slope. The balls are attached after 10-30 cm. It is not recommended more often, since then it will be difficult to tap the strips. The voids between the balls allow the strip to be gently tapped, facilitating quick drying glue.

The diluted glue hardens quickly, you need to have time to work it out within half an hour. Therefore, all strips of drywall must be prepared before thinning it. If the glue begins to set, adding water to it and mixing again is useless. It's better to throw it away and mix a new one.

If there are large differences on the old slope, more than 3 cm, it is not worth gluing the strips with balls. This is a large consumption of glue, and strength cannot be achieved. In places where there are large differences, pieces of drywall are glued in several layers. This way you can increase the layer up to 20 cm. In this case, before gluing the slope strips, you need to wait at least an hour.

Once the drywall strips are installed, tap them down. Drywall is a fragile material. Therefore, you need to tap through flat board or a block with your hands or a hammer, preferably wooden or rubber, while constantly checking the horizontal and vertical positions with a level or plumb line.

The vertical strip must be secured with spacers, resting one end on the window sill, the other on the slope, and wait at least 1-2 hours. During this time the glue will set.

After the slopes are glued, you should wait several days for the glue to completely harden. The waiting time depends on the thickness of the glue. After this, you should foam the void between the wall and the slope. You shouldn't do this before. Air passes through the unsealed gap, and the glue dries faster.

We glue plasterboard slopes onto polyurethane foam

This is the easiest way. In strips of drywall at a distance of 5 cm on the side of the window, from the window sill and from the other slope, holes with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the tube from the foam cylinder are drilled and fixed in the window opening. You can secure it with spacers, but it is better with several screws, which can later be unscrewed or left under putty.

Gluing drywall to the slopes using polyurethane foam will allow for maximum insulation of the slopes.

IN drilled hole the tube from the cylinder is inserted and foam is injected until it appears in the next one. This operation must be repeated for everyone through one hole. Then you should foam the groove between the new and old slope. After a day, the spacers can be removed and excess foam can be trimmed. An air cavity has formed between the old and new slope, which conserves heat well and conducts sound poorly.

This method of foaming can be used for slopes mounted on a frame, and not only for plastic windows. All the options considered can be done with your own hands.

Final installation steps

To ensure that the corners are even and always remain so, they are sealed with paint metal corner. Can be glued with glue or putty.

The outer part of the slope is puttied. The surface is almost flat, so you can use finishing putty. After puttying and sanding, the slopes must be primed.

The junction of the slope and plastic windows is filled with white acrylic glue. If the plasterboard window slope fits tightly enough to the frame, a groove is cut at an angle of 45 degrees to a depth of 3 mm. After drying, acrylic turns into rubber and does not crack over time. Drying time is about 12 hours. Unlike silicone, it can be painted.

The last stage is painting. It is advisable to paint with a roller. If you paint with a brush, the movements should be directed horizontally, “in the light.”

Knowing how to install plasterboard slopes for plastic windows with your own hands, you can start working. There should not be any particular difficulties when performing the work. Anyone can make plasterboard slopes with their own hands. This will save the family budget and guarantee the quality of the work performed.

It is very convenient to make slopes from plasterboard with your own hands - no dirt, no long step-by-step work You are not afraid!

Choosing drywall

Drywall installation

If you make slopes from plasterboard, then given choice may be due to the following advantages:

During installation there is no such amount of debris and waste as, say, during puttying and plastering the surface;
Do-it-yourself plasterboard slopes are perfectly smooth;
Installing gypsum boards is so simple that even a beginner can do it.

Disadvantages of this type of finish compared to other options:

The material is quite fragile;
In terms of strength, gypsum board is significantly inferior to its plastic counterpart;
Increased hygroscopicity is also a minus.

When choosing drywall for you need to be guided by the following rules:

The standard one can be taken if the humidity in the room does not exceed 70;
Moisture-resistant has increased hydrophobic and antifungal properties, which makes it possible to use even in the bathroom;
For rooms where building regulations An increased risk of fire has been identified; it is better to use gypsum boards with the addition of fiberglass and reduced mineral wool particles.

Well, choosing a slope option is much easier said than done. Although this can be done quickly, especially if you read the basic rules of this process and understand the main types.

Tools for work

To make slopes from plasterboard with your own hands, you must acquire the following tools:

Assembly knife
Screwdriver
Set of various drills
A grater for plasterboard or sandpaper 200-240;
Level
Primer for painting
Gypsum plasterboard adhesive
putty
Perforated corner
Sloping corner
Brush
Primer against fungus
Roller
Water-based paint
Ditch for paint

So, you have prepared a list of items, so let’s start installing plasterboard slopes with your own hands.

Preparation

However, we will not start right away, but will carefully prepare a “springboard” for work.

Installing the Top

And in order for our hand-made plasterboard slopes to be almost ideal, we will carry out a number of actions:

Without any regret, remove excess mortar and foam, which you probably used to seal the window itself (you can use a painting knife for this);
Take a brush and a container of primer in your hands and carefully treat the entire surface of the slope. This event will protect your window in the future from mold and mildew, which may lead to the fact that you will have to re-make plasterboard slopes with your own hands;
Those places that you have sealed with polyurethane foam need to be covered with weak cement mortar(the proportion of water to cement is 4 to 1), these actions will help close small holes that probably still remain;
It is, of course, advisable to insulate the slope. Unfortunately, gypsum is a type of material that is destroyed under the influence of condensation and temperature changes, and therefore everything must be done in advance so that this process does not become real;
Next, in order for all the work to be accurate and verified, you need to put a slope corner along the slope, the smaller side of which is directed towards the window, thereby reducing the area of the frame itself, which will be used for the slope.

3 ways to install gypsum boards

The first step is to pick up a meter and carefully measure the dimensions of the window opening. And make the corresponding “patterns” on the drywall.

Cutting drywall is quite simple: draw along the line with a paint knife, then take the material for a break in the same place. The plaster itself breaks, and back side a line is formed, along which you also draw with a painting knife.

However, let's describe in more detail how this should happen. When cutting the top layer of cardboard, press the paint knife a little harder so that it also cuts the plaster. To get a smooth cut, you can place a block under the sheet and just gently tap along the line. Already with these manipulations you will see how the plaster will break evenly. And just for the finishing touch, cut the opposite sheet of cardboard with a paint knife.

We have prepared one part - attach it to the opening. Is everything correct? Did you cut correctly?

For putty

One of the most common installation options, which, in principle, can be done by a beginner.

So, the process of laying plasterboard slopes with your own hands step by step will look like this:

Before laying, apply a special primer to the slope itself, which is used to increase the adhesion between the mortar and the slope itself. Also, immediately before the installation process itself, you can additionally spray the slope with ordinary water using a spray bottle;
“Cakes” of putty are applied to the gypsum board sheets. Be sure to distribute them so that this application is in the corners and in the center of the sheet. If the opening is large enough and you need to fasten top part, and you are working alone, then it is wise to prepare homemade spacers that will help hold the sheet. After all, if the sheet breaks, then you definitely won’t be able to achieve a smooth surface;
Now carefully, firmly press the gypsum board sheet against the slope, and, taking the level in your hands, check whether it is level. If you purchased a high-quality adhesive mixture, then you do not need to use additional fixation of the sheets;
Using the same spatula, remove excess glue from the edges that has been squeezed out of the space. All! The strip is installed;
Do-it-yourself installation of the side walls and bottom is carried out in the same way for plasterboard slope(if you do not have a window sill).

Unfortunately, this method has a number of disadvantages - namely:

Preliminary leveling of surfaces to be finished is mandatory;
When laying, voids are formed, because you apply the mixture not to the entire surface, but partially;
It is necessary to press the sheets firmly, and at the same time make sure that the surface is smooth;
If the spacers are not installed properly, there is a possibility that the surface of the gypsum board may simply bend in some places;
And finally, the fastening, it should be noted, is not very reliable.

However, this is enough quick way fasteners, which many have been using for several years now, and have no special complaints.

On polyurethane foam

This method is also a simple one, but it should be used if there are no potholes larger than 3 cm on your slopes, otherwise you will need to either putty the depressions or pre-fill them with foam, but in this place the fastening will not be of sufficient quality.

So, the process itself:

Prepare the slope in the same way as for installation on putty (primer is required);
Next, having inserted the polyurethane foam into a special gun, squeeze it out with a thin line (no more than one cm) onto the back side your workpiece, making sure that it is applied like a “snake”;
Press the sheet to the place where it will be located;
Then tear it off and leave it aside for 5 minutes. This time is needed for the foam on the sheet itself and the residues on the slope to increase in volume;
After the specified period of time, press your workpiece back into its place, check its horizontal or vertical position using a building level, and leave it in a fixed state until completely dry(approximately 12-24 hours depending on the manufacturer and the quality of the polyurethane foam you purchased);
After drying, cover the gaps between the drywall and the wall with plaster.

The disadvantages of this installation method are absolutely identical to the first installation option.

Frame method

This method is considered the most difficult, but at the same time the most reliable. There is one feature that needs to be taken into account - cutting of drywall sheets is done after the frame is assembled, but not before.

So let's get started:

First, using special corners (you can also use wooden blocks), the frame itself is assembled. Basically, specialists first install the side crossbars, and only then the horizontal jumper;

Important! IN this method All corners must be installed under the control of the building level, otherwise the surface will not be level!

Next, we attach the gypsum board sheets to the frame using a regular screwdriver and fleas (small self-tapping screws). When fastening, do not overdo it with tightening, as an overtightened screw can cause the plaster to crack, and this is not very good. And just like that, sheet by sheet, the gypsum board is attached to the frame;
In this method, subsequent jointing of the fastening points and puttying of these joints is mandatory. For jointing, it is enough to make crosswise cuts with a painting knife, and then putty this place. And after drying, sand it.

After these steps you have completed, you can begin finishing, which also has several stages, and this is by no means just painting.

Slope finishing

All the manipulations that you have performed are only half the battle. Further measures to create a slope from plasterboard with your own hands are also important. Are you ready? Then let's get started!

To ensure that the slope angle is even and does not crumble, you need to take care of strengthening it in advance. To do this, you need to purchase a special perforated corner, which is attached along the entire outer perimeter of the slope using drywall adhesive.

Important! The glue should be distributed evenly over the corners; the perforated corner is quite flexible, and an uneven layer can cause it to deform, which will affect the evenness of the corner.

So, the mixture has been distributed, now place the purchased corner on the corner, pressing a little, so that the corner sits all the way. Excess adhesive mixture will probably come out through the holes, which you can immediately remove using the same spatula.

Now pick up a level and check whether you have leveled the corner. If everything is fine, we move on, but if not, we need to reinstall it.

Next, you need to putty the places where the perforated corner intersects with the slope. Usually two layers are enough. If you encounter any unevenness during the putty process, you can get rid of them with fine-grained sandpaper, but you need to correct the surface after the putty has completely set.

In addition, you need to embroider and putty those places where you fastened the gypsum board to the slope with a self-tapping screw.

Also, carefully tape the junction of the slope and the window with a special tape, which should then be puttied. Although, in principle, if the cracks are very small, you can get by with just putty.

Almost the final stage is applying a primer with your own hands to the entire surface of the plasterboard slope. Then take a fine abrasive sandpaper in your hands and walk along the slope again, removing any irregularities. To take a closer look at exactly where they are, you can use a “carrying” (a regular light bulb with a socket on a long wire), placing the light bulb at different angles, you can understand where and what is wrong and correct it.

After grouting, give it a final coat of primer again.

Trimming gypsum boards locally

After the layer has dried, you can begin painting the plasterboard slope with your own hands. It will be more convenient and competent to perform this type of work with a roller:

A little paint is poured into the ditch;
The roller is lowered into the paint, then you need to walk the roller along the ribbed side, removing excess water-based emulsion;
Apply paint to the slope with a roller, and you need to move in different directions, but you should not move the roller too much in one place - give the paint time to set, do not apply too thick a layer, which can immediately “peel off”. But you shouldn’t paint windows this way. You can check the evenness of the paint overlay using the same carrier - in places where you did not go, dark spots will be visible under the light, which need to be painted over immediately.
Usually two layers of water-based emulsion are enough. And it won’t be that easy, but if you’re interested, it’s possible.

So, you not only made a drywall slope with your own hands, but also painted it, and everything worked out for you!

Happy renovation!

Today, almost every home has metal-plastic windows. Their installation allows you to increase thermal insulation, noise insulation and dust resistance, and will also make your windows more attractive. But there's a catch here. After installing windows you need to do window slopes.

Window slopes

If desired, slopes can be easily made with your own hands.

Today, window slopes can be made from a wide variety of materials:

plastic;
wood;
drywall;
just plaster it.

Most Popular finishing materials for windows there are panels made of plasterboard and plastic. With their help, you can sheathe not only windows, but also doors. Such materials have the following advantages:

easy to attach;
available;
durable;
universal.

In addition, slopes made of plastic or plasterboard allow you to achieve maximum noise, sound and heat insulation. Slopes made of plastic are inferior in some properties to plasterboard, which is why they increasingly prefer to make window openings from the latter. Drywall, compared to plastic, is more preferable because it:

more moisture resistant;
more environmentally friendly;
more durable;
less demanding in its maintenance;
better resists fungal formations.

All these qualities are inherent in only one type of plasterboard sheets - moisture resistant. Best manufacturer moisture-resistant plasterboard on at the moment is the Knauf company.

Moisture-resistant drywall

This drywall has a special structure that allows it to resist moisture and the development of mold and mildew.

Necessary tools

To make slopes from plasterboard with your own hands, you need to have at your disposal the necessary list of tools and know the installation technology. This is the only way to correctly and quickly make slopes on the windows.
Finishing drywall slopes requires the following set of tools:

construction whisk;
screwdriver or drill with self-tapping screws;
spatulas;
containers;
construction knife.

Tools

This kit will help you make your window slopes correctly and quickly.

Preparatory stage

You can make slopes from plasterboard with your own hands only after special training:

we clear space near the windows so that it is convenient to move around them;
remove excess foam remaining after installing windows;
clear the window opening from construction waste, crumbs and dust;
gluing vapor barrier tape around the entire perimeter;
then we treat the entire surface of the slopes with a primer (Knauf) with antifungal properties.

Window opening primer

Then we proceed to fix the starting line. With its help, the installation of plasterboard slopes will be as efficient as possible. This strip will help the drywall adhere extremely tightly to the window. Therefore, it needs to be glued around the entire perimeter.
To install it you need:

cut the strip and immediately attach it to the window opening;
fastening to the edge of the frame occurs using self-tapping screws;
after this, you should measure the distance from the top starting strip to the window sill on both sides;
on the remaining sections of the slopes the strip is fastened in a similar way.

After this, you can begin preparing the panels.

Pay attention! This stage very important because plasterboard sheets can be easily damaged during the cutting process.

To properly cut sheets, you must do the following:

We measure the horizontal part of the slope. It is located parallel to the window sill;
cut out the desired part from the sheet. First you need to make a cut, and then hit it on the other side. After this, you can completely cut off a piece from the sheet;

Cutting plasterboard sheets

We insert the cut out part into the future location and measure the side slopes of the windows. To do this, make a mark with a pencil;
cut out the two side panels in the same way.

Pay attention! The cut panels must first be installed in the window openings to ensure that they fit perfectly.
After all manipulations, the window opening should be primed with a deep penetration primer.

Fastening drywall

You can make plasterboard slopes with your own hands well only if you follow the fastening technology. At this point in time, there are three main methods for creating plasterboard slopes on windows:

bookmark for window frames;
without laying behind the frame profile;
using corners.

Laying slopes behind the frame on windows involves the following operations:

We cut grooves close to the frame along the entire perimeter. To do this we use a sharp knife. The groove must have the thickness of a plasterboard sheet;
insert the top edge of the panel into this slot. If the panel is wide, we use supports;
add foam to the groove;
fill the cavity 2/3 mineral wool for insulation. Instead of cotton wool, you can use polystyrene foam. To do this, apply foam to the edge of the foam and glue it to 1/3 of the slope;
then we insert the side strips and carry out similar procedures;
Upon completion of the installation of all panels, we fix them using masking tape.

Bookmark for the frame

We blow out all the resulting gaps with foam. Be very careful as you may damage the tape. When the foam dries, unnecessary areas cut with a knife. Then you need to do the final finishing, and cover the wall near the windows with a plastic corner. We attach it with glue. We coat all joints acrylic sealant Titan brand.

Acrylic sealant "Titan"

We remove excess sealants. This is best done with your finger.
To strengthen the slopes on windows without laying behind the frame profile, you need to do the following:

We take the starting profile for the plastic panels and attach it to the frame. Don't forget to do a vapor barrier first;
fill the profile with acrylic sealant, and then insert blanks from plasterboard panels into it;
Mineral wool should be placed tightly, approximately 2/3 deep into the cavity;
Apply glue to the edges of the slopes and press down the panel;
We repeat the procedure for the remaining panels.

Finishing window openings using a corner involves the following procedures:

screw a corner along the edge of the frame;
We take plasterboard blanks and cut off their edge on the side that will be adjacent to the window. The cut must be primed;
We attach the workpiece to the corner with self-tapping screws;
fill the resulting cavity with insulation;
we glue the slope, having carried out a preliminary vapor barrier;
cut the bevel at 45 degrees on the workpiece that will be on the edge of the window;
Fill the resulting cavity with putty to the required level.

We apply an adhesive solution in the form of bumps 10x10 cm onto the workpiece. The step between these “blunders” should be 25-30 cm;

"Bloopers" on the panel

We install the finished panel in window opening and press. We check the glued sheets with a level;

level the adhesive solution that came out using spatulas along the end of the slope;
We fasten the remaining panels in the same way;
We treat the joints with Knauf putty.

As a result, you get practically finished slopes, and all that remains is to give them an aesthetic appearance. To do this, the slopes can simply be puttied, primed and painted.

Painting a window opening

Finishing windows for installing slopes with your own hands can be done in two ways: wet and dry. When using wet installation as the main building material a putty mixture or plaster based on gypsum or lime mortars is used. Its application will require construction skills and awareness of the nuances of execution technology.

Rough finishing of slopes

For the dry method, the following are used: installation materials such as plasterboard sheets, plastic or . It is preferable to make window slopes this way for the following reasons:

saving time during installation (you won’t have to wait 4-5 days for plaster mixture will grab);
you can do the finishing yourself;
such materials are easier to dismantle when replacing windows, doorways;
thanks to emphatically geometric lines, aesthetically attractive and neat window openings with perfectly even corners are created;
The thermal insulation of the opening is improved.

Slope made from gypsum board sheets

Simple and neat

Why is drywall used?

Finishing slopes using plasterboard sheets is preferable due to the affordable cost of the material and the ease of its processing when adjusting sizes, forming complex shaped window elements or non-standard openings.

The material is environmentally friendly, has a unique porous structure, which helps regulate humidity levels, stabilize changes in external temperatures and create an optimal indoor microclimate.

In more detail the principle of finishing slopes

For window finishing, only green GKLV grade plasterboard is used with special water-repellent additives for installation in places exposed to moisture. Sheet thickness – 12.5 mm.

To ensure that the walls of the window opening can withstand the weight of the sheet, and a thermal bridge is formed between them and the material for good thermal insulation, a special frame is formed under the gypsum slab. It is made from a metal or wooden profile, however, the use of the first is preferable due to its ability to maintain its physical properties in conditions high humidity. The frame itself is installed only after the gap between the window opening and the double-glazed window frame has been insulated with polyurethane foam and its excess has been cut off after drying.

Window prepared for installation work

Features of installation technology

Before starting work on the frame, measurements are taken. To do this, the depth is measured on each side of the window opening. The largest width becomes the basis for the parameters of the future plasterboard slope. The length of the slopes should be equal to the height of the window. Based on the data obtained, three elements are manufactured: two side slopes and one upper one.

Frame assembly:

a UD profile is installed along the edges of the opening and in its corner perpendicular to the floor;
Be sure to lay a sealing tape between the wall and the profile; in the future, this will reduce heat losses, and in winter time will protect the profile from freezing;
jumpers from the CD profile are installed perpendicular to the guide profiles;
the frame for the upper part of the opening is made in the same way;
the profile is attached to the wall using a dowel with self-tapping screws, the planks are connected to each other using metal screws such as “bug”, “tex” or “flea”;
in sections of the profile frame, additional heat and moisture insulation materials (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene) can be laid;
after installation is completed, the frame is sheathed using pre-prepared plasterboard slopes;
their fastening in the window opening begins with the top element, then moves to the side ones. The sections are fixed using self-tapping screws 25 mm long, their pitch is 15-20 cm.

Installation of the frame on a slope and its insulation

The final finishing of the slopes involves sealing the joints between the sheets of drywall with putty and covering with 2-3 layers of primer. To enhance the protection of elements from moisture, the gaps between the frame, window sill and slope are sealed with acrylic sealant.

The joints between the sheets are sealed

The resulting angle between the wall and the opening can be strengthened with a perforated profile, which is fixed to the slope using putty or a stapler. Upon completion of the work, they begin to decorate the opening: applying plaster, painting, and so on.

Alternative to frame installation technology

Besides frame technology installation, sometimes an adhesive finish is used. It is suitable for constructing slopes and decorating doorways. Adhesive finishing saves window opening space. However, by attaching the slope to the frame, it is possible to provide additional thermal insulation and hide various communications or electrical wiring. Therefore, the use of this or that technology depends on the specifics of the room.

Slope arrangement diagram

The proposed diagram very clearly shows that the sheet is fastened using polyurethane foam, which also acts as insulation, so you solve two problems at the same time: installing slopes and thermal insulation of the room.

Installation of plasterboard slopes

Find out more about what stages the construction of the frame includes and finishing window openings with plasterboard slopes, you can watch the video.

For adhesive finishing of windows with plasterboard, a Perflix type solution from Knauf is used. The main requirement is that the glue should not be liquid. The solution is applied along the surface of the slope in dots with a distance of 30 cm. To improve fixation at the edges and in the center of the plasterboard blank, it is recommended to screw in self-tapping screws. Installation begins from the upper slope, then proceeds to the side elements.

Installation of slope using adhesive method and sealing perforated corner putty solution

Before and After

An alternative to glue is polyurethane foam, however, when finishing the gap in this way, monitor its consumption so that excess swelling does not damage the integrity of the plasterboard slopes. With this installation, there is no need to insulate the windows, since the foam acts as a heat and moisture insulating material.

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Slopes made of plasterboard without “jambs”

Replacing old ones wooden frames for plastic windows is justified and there is no doubt. The technology requires the dismantling of slopes, and now we face the problem of their high-quality restoration. I will teach you how to install slopes on plasterboard windows with your own hands without the typical “jambs” that home-grown craftsmen are guilty of.

Choosing the “right” drywall

Each type of work requires a competent selection of materials. The quality of the result directly depends on this. Is plasterboard needed for window slopes? Is it required? ball valve to connect washing machine– it doesn’t matter, it’s important to understand the characteristics necessary for the materials to work.

To make slopes from plasterboard, you should buy sheets with the following characteristics:

moisture resistance;
sufficient strength;
ability to respond normally to temperature changes.

Moisture resistance is especially important: if plasterboard begins to absorb and accumulate moisture, there is a high probability of fungus appearing. Changes in humidity also affect the geometry of the sheet, which can lead to the appearance of cracks in the putty.

So, we will need GKLV (“B” - moisture resistant), which is distinguished by green cardboard and blue markings. Be sure to personally verify the quality of the products:

The sheets must be even.
The cardboard is glued neatly.
The corners are not broken.
No cracks or potholes.

Ensure responsible loading. Pay attention to the labeling: you are purchasing a specific brand and year of manufacture. Now about brands. I advise you to choose the following manufacturers:

Knauf;
Lafarge;
Gyproc;
Volma.

Buy drywall at construction supermarkets. Even if the price from a market shopkeeper is slightly cheaper, this is not a reason to take risks. Small savings are inappropriate here. A standard thickness of 12.5 mm will do.

Calculations and design

The installation of plasterboard slopes is not difficult, but any construction requires design. You will need a tape measure, a pencil and a piece of paper.

First, measure the height and width of the opening along the inner perimeter, then along the outer perimeter, measure the depth. Do not forget - the slopes will have the shape of a trapezoid, since the opening is widened or made “at dawn”. It is advisable to measure each plane separately and draw all three parts indicating the dimensions.

At this stage we do not cut anything, but only carry out the drawing. More fine-tuning of the dimensions will be made later, when we determine the method of installing the drywall.

If we take a standard double-leaf kitchen window in a Khrushchev building, we will get the following dimensions:

To determine the slope angle, usually take its thickness (depth) and divide by 10. The resulting value will be equal to the deviation from right angle towards expansion. It is better to save the window sunrise, as it increases the viewing angle and the amount of light that enters the room.

Methods for installing slopes

Slopes are installed in different ways:

using polyurethane foam;
with help for plasterboard;
using a frame;
with the establishment behind the frame;
using L-profile;
combined methods.

The most common method is gluing. However, it is not always relevant: the window frame may be wooden or dilapidated, and then polyurethane foam comes to the rescue and glues everything together.

The only caveat is that you need to be able to work with foam and dose it correctly, taking into account expansion during polymerization.

Sometimes, along the perimeter of the window opening, a wooden strip is nailed from the inside with dowels, to which the edge of the slope is mounted using self-tapping screws. The opposite edge is fixed with an L-profile or placed behind the window frame. If you carefully foam the gap between the wall and the gypsum board, you can get thermal insulation and a good reinforcing layer.

To fix the part that is adjacent to the window frame, two methods are used:

L-profile.
Gutter in polyurethane foam.

The first one is screwed with flea screws to the window frame. The gutter is cut out with a construction knife along the thickness of the sheet to a depth of 1 - 2 cm.

Which method to choose depends on the situation and your experience. Using special profiles allows you to make your work more accurate, but if you experienced master, then any of the above options will give a good result.

Installation of slopes

Preparing the window opening

Before you start installation work, it is necessary to prepare all surfaces. Including:

Clean the opening from dilapidated fragments of plaster. If its condition is unsatisfactory, then it is better to remove the plaster completely.
Large defects, potholes, cracks should be filled with putty.

It is imperative to examine the installation area for signs of mold, and if any are identified, it is necessary to thoroughly treat the materials with fungicides.
Clean all surfaces from dust and prime them.

Often fungal infections are visually localized only in some places, while in fact mold mycelium can affect large areas building structures. In this case, a comprehensive treatment of the room will be required.

As a result, we should get clean and well-strengthened surfaces. Anything that doesn't stick well should be removed. There is no need to achieve an aesthetic effect; we are interested in a base that will withstand the glued slopes.

Tools and materials

To get started, you should stock up on a small set of tools:

screwdriver;
metal scissors;
spatula;
drywall saw or construction knife;
spray foam gun;
glue for gypsum board "Perfix";
silicone sealant;
roller and brush;
masking tape;
GKLV;
two wooden strips the length of the window opening, a width of 40 mm and a thickness of 5 - 10 mm;
dowels for attaching the plank to the wall with anchor screws;
hammer;
maklovitsa;
perforated corner for gypsum boards;
serpyanka mesh for internal corners;
miter box;
support strips.

The listed tools are not a dogma, because each master works with what is most convenient for him personally. I just hope we can show the principle correct installation do-it-yourself slopes.

Operating procedure

Using a construction knife, cut off the excess polyurethane foam.

Along the edge window frame We fix the L-profile with fleas.

We mount a pre-cut strip with dowels to the edge of the opening, 3 dowels for each.

Let's take it top sheet and install it first. The half that is closer to the window should be glued with foam, the second with Perfix glue. We attach the sheet to the L-profile and a wooden plank; for reliability, you can support it with prepared planks.

We fasten the side slopes. We apply foam and glue, insert it into the groove of the L-profile and fix it with self-tapping screws to it and the bar.

We treat the inner corners with putty and glue the “serpyanka” onto them. Glue on the outer corners.
Then we putty the slopes with starting putty and finishing putty We perform grouting and painting with waterproof acrylic paint.
We cover the place where the plasterboard joins the wall with decorative corners. We coat the joints between the plaster and the window sill silicone sealant. If desired, drywall can be finished with tiles or wallpaper.

Conclusion

Applying this technique, you can make not only window, but also door slopes from plasterboard. The video in this article will help you deal with the questions that have arisen, as well as find more detailed information. If you have questions, voice them in the comments, I will be happy to answer!

November 7, 2016

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