We make a simple table for a circular table with our own hands with drawings. Table for a miter saw How to make a table for a miter saw

Helical wood splitter to help the villager

Helical, rack, and pneumatic wood splitters are tools designed for splitting logs into logs. Rural craftsmen assemble wood splitters from scrap parts, but they are low-powered and the designs require modification. A splitting ax with a conical screw is easy to make on your own or purchased cheaply.

Electrically driven screw splitter

A wood splitter with an electronic or diesel drive is a unit capable of processing up to 10-12 cubic meters of logs about 60 cm long (standard firewood). Manufacturers use installations to reduce labor costs. At home, high-performance installations are not in demand.

The device of a helical wood splitter is based on the interaction of a pair screw-nut, where the nut is a soft piece of wood. A gearmotor with a tip in the form of a conical screw, rotating at a speed of 250-450 rpm, is mounted on a stable metal platform. The motor drives a stubborn bar that pushes the block of wood, standing on its end, onto a rotating cone. As a result, the cone of the wood splitter enters lateral surface lumps, wood splits along the grain.

When working with a wood splitter, you must take precautions. Clothes should fit snugly on the body. Mittens are a threat factor. It is better to work with thick gloves.

The gearmotor is replaced by a belt drive with the motor installed under the cutting table. Then the rotation is transmitted to the shaft of the helical cone by pulleys designed for rational screw speeds. This design allows the use of a single-phase 220 V motor, with which the cost of a screw-shaped wood splitter becomes significantly lower. If the cleaver is equipped with an end cap, then the working cone will return to starting position without the help of others. You can watch the video to see how a helical wood splitter works:

Making a wood splitter yourself

Price of a helical cleaver industrial production depending on the configuration, from 16 to hundreds of thousands of rubles. The main working element is a cone for a wood splitter, which can be ordered from a turning workshop. To make a screw wood splitter work with your own hands, drawings for craftsmen are offered.

(part 3/3) Miter Saw Station

The final part on the table for miter saw . I made side supports and a protective screen made of plexiglass.

DIY miter saw table(part 1/3). Miter Saw Station

I decided to organize table under the trim. We have already managed to make two bases for the tabletop, more will be done later.

It will not be possible to make a thread with a grinder, since the persistent thread on the “carrot” must be maintained precisely. In addition, when making a cone, the turner must know the ratio of the length and cross-section of the base - 2:1, the thread is double-start with a pitch of 5-6 mm, the tooth profile is like that of a chisel.

Depending on the size of the part, it will cost up to 5,000 rubles. Completely finished working unit:

screw cone;
shaft with bearing assembly;
transmission pulley for belt drive.

The entire set will cost no more than 6 thousand, but made at design load, the node is safer.

The manufactured machine must meet the following requirements:

engine power not less than 2 kW;
at high speeds, the thread pitch must be kept smaller to reduce the load on the drive;
the fit on the gearbox shaft must be tight to prevent rotation;
the cone is made of tool steel;
the tip of the screw is sharpened and should enter the wood gently, without effort;
working platform height - 80 cm.

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The schematic diagram of the device looks as shown in the diagram.

As can be seen from the diagram, the device is simple, but requires precise alignment of the units, selection of pulleys with the required gear ratio and V-belts that match the profile.

To help the craftsman, there is a video on how to make a cone wood splitter with your own hands:

There is another scheme that does not require a belt drive and gearbox. The low speed motor shaft can be directly connected to the screw wedge. Shaft speed less than 500 rpm is not dangerous for the drive of a screw wood splitter.

Chunks that are knotty or deformed with a bend must be pricked with extreme caution. The log can bounce along an unpredictable trajectory, spinning a block in your hands. The wedge may get stuck in hard wood. Therefore, if possible, the machine should be equipped with reverse.

It would be useful to recall that the engine must have a moisture-proof housing and be grounded. The belt drive is covered with a protective casing. When feeding chocks to the cutting table You can’t work in high places. If you move awkwardly, it can get wrapped around the cone along with your hand. The machine must be equipped with a stopper for emergency braking.

As an example of folk ingenuity, one can cite a device for splitting not large quantity short chocks. A conical attachment with a cross-section of 30 mm on a low-speed hammer drill will allow you to split dry wood. But there are difficulties here. The drill tends to make a turn behind the screw; it should be held firmly, resisting, or the tool should be strengthened in the holder.

First, let's figure out what a miter saw is and why it is needed. It is worth noting that, first of all, this is an electric tool designed for working with lumber. Secondly, main feature This tool is able to cut the ends of wooden parts at exactly the right angle.

Of course, such a tool is necessary to have in a carpentry workshop with large volumes of work. How to make such a tool yourself will be discussed in this article.

Preparing materials and tools to create a miter saw table

Once the decision has been made to produce the right tool, you need to prepare everything necessary to complete this work in short terms and do not clutter the workshop with materials and tools.

INimportant to remember! How better materials, the more reliable the tool will be, and the better the cut on the wooden workpiece will be.

Drawing up a diagram

Before you begin preparing to build a DIY miter saw table, you need to decide what functions you want the tool to perform and what additional features might come in handy. Thus, a diagram of the device, its drawings and details are drawn up. And only then are drawings of each part drawn up.

Moreover important see the overall picture of the entire device, and not just the picture of each node.

Product assembly

It is recommended to begin assembling the entire product by studying the drawings and all the parts necessary for assembly. It is also necessary to check the availability metalworking tools, without which it will be impossible to assemble the table. Important take into account the order of assembly of each unit. Descriptions of these nodes are given below.

We begin the manufacture of a table for a miter saw by assembling the base or platform on which the tool itself will be installed directly. The dimensions of this plate largely depend on the dimensions of the miter saw itself. Moreover, if we want to make a universal table so that it is possible to install other compatible tools on it, for example, such as a slotting machine, then the size is taken according to maximum size tool.

It is better to use 19 mm plywood as a material; if this is not available, you can use chipboard or MDF boards of suitable sizes, but plywood is more reliable.

Installation of side extensions. Quite often parts are used much longer length than the saw bed and for processing such parts, removable side extensions are installed. Moreover, you can use them both on the right and on the left of the bed. Extensions are usually made of the same material as the frame itself. That is, 19 mm plywood will be quite enough.
Upper shelves: an important detail of the table. In order for the part to be freely attached to the extension, as well as for more comfortable attachment of the extension itself to the frame, it is necessary to make upper shelves. They are attached with screws to both the frame and the extension. Shelves are also usually made from 19mm plywood. Important feature shelf is the presence of a tongue along the entire length of the part, 19 mm wide and 3 mm deep. Its purpose will be explained later.
Application of clamping plates. Clamping plates allow the most accurate and reliable alignment of the bed and extensions in width. To do this, it is best to use clamps that will tighten the extensions and the base of the table together. After this fixation, the extensions can be attached to the base of the table.
Collaboration of machines. When several machines work together, as mentioned earlier, it is necessary to align their planes. If, for example, you want to use a slotting machine together with a miter saw, then it must be installed so that the working planes of both machines coincide. This means it will be necessary to equalize the heights of both machines. They are the ones that are inserted into the tongues made in the shelves installed on the extensions.
Movable stops are also important. Mobile stops are designed for fixing parts using guide rails made of bars hard rocks tree. The quality of trimming of parts also largely depends on the quality of their manufacture.
How else can you use extensions? Extensions allow you to fasten parts of a sufficiently long length. In order to use them correctly, you need to reconfigure the table for such a part. Of course it will take certain time, but then it will pay off when producing a large number of long parts.

So, to summarize: you can make a table for a crosscut plate even in your home workshop. Moreover, the result of manufacturing parts on this table will be much better than on an ordinary workbench.

Equip either of the two machines with these simple extensions to support long workpieces, complete with movable stops.

PROJECT OVERVIEW

The base and side extensions can be easily adjusted to fit any miter saw or slotting machine. If you have both of these machines, you can make one pair of extensions to use with each machine.

An ideal solution for saving space in small workshops, the base and extensions snap onto the workbench quickly and are easily stowed away when there is no work to be done on them.

One movable stop for each machine can be installed on the left or right. The distance from the stop to the center of the machine can be changed in the range from 915 to 1525 mm.

Measure the width and depth of the base of your miter saw or slotter. If the machine table protrudes beyond the dimensions of the bed, measure the width of the table. Add 38mm to the depth and 178mm to the width to determine the width and length of platform base A as shown in the illustration. Then cut the bottom piece from 19mm MDF, plywood or plastic-coated chipboard to these dimensions.

Measure the height of the machine table and reduce this dimension by 19 mm to determine the width of the posts B. Cut two posts of this width and length equal to the width of the base A. Press the posts to the base with clamps, drill and countersink pilot holes through the base, then fasten the parts with screws. To use one pair of extensions for both machines, measure the height of each table. Reduce largest size by 19 mm and cut out posts of this width for both platform bases.

Cut out the two lower parts C from 19 mm material according to the dimensions indicated in the figure. (If necessary, you can change the length of the extensions depending on your needs and space available.) To hang the extensions on the wall (when not in use), drill a 25mm hole in both pieces. Then cut six D posts, 152mm long and the same width as the B platform posts. Additionally, cut two F clamping plates of the same dimensions and set them aside. (These will be attached to the extensions in step 4.) Now clamp the posts to the bottom pieces with clamps, centering the middle posts, drill pilot holes, and install screws.

Place the platform base on the workbench and place your machine on top, aligning it in the center. Place one of the extensions close to the platform, as shown in the picture. Measure the distance from the outside of the far post D to the edge of the machine table. You-

saw the two upper shelves E to the same length and width of 152 mm. To use extensions with both machines, measure the distance from the far counter to the edge of the table for each and cut the shelves to the smaller size.

Now, using a saw with a 19mm thick mortise blade, cut a 10mm deep tongue down the center of each shelf. Press the shelves with clamps to the C/D extensions, drill holes, countersink them and secure the shelves to the stands with screws.

Place the C/D/E extensions flush against the A/B platform base, aligned at the front. Take the previously cut clamp plates F and place them on the inside of the platform posts B, aligned with the leading edge, as shown in the picture. Now squeeze pairs of adjacent posts B, D and clamping plates with clamps, drill holes through the upper shelves E, countersink them and secure the plates with screws.

Using clamps, secure the extensions to the platform base. Reinstall the machine and level it to the middle of the width of the base. Holding a long, level bar against the standard machine stop, adjust the position of the machine to align the rear edge of the bar with the rear edges of the upper shelves E.

Make sure the edges of the planks and shelves are parallel. Now remove the strip and extensions. Mark the centers of the mounting holes for attaching the machine, remove the machine and drill holes in the platform base L. Countersink them from below and secure the machine with countersunk screws, adding washers and nuts.

To position the tables of both machines at the same height, cut two wooden spacers, the width of which allows you to make mounting holes for the screws that will secure the machine with the lower table. Plan the spacers to a thickness that is equal to the difference in height of the two tables. Now, installing the machine with a low table, make holes. Secure the machine with screws, inserting spacers between it and the base.

Determine the width of the miter saw fence G by measuring the distance from the front edge of one of the extensions to the front of the fence on the machine table. The width of the movable stop H for a slotting machine is determined by the distance from the front edge of the extension to the center of the bit. Measure the distance from the center of the table to inside post D closest to the platform base to determine the length of the movable stops. Having found out the dimensions, cut out the fly from 19 mm material.

Then using sawing machine with a grooved disk, select tongues 3 mm deep on both sides of each part at a distance of 60 mm from the front edge and make dust-proof folds with a section of 3 × 3 mm at the top and bottom along each end. Now cut and sharpen two guide rails I measuring 11x19x305 mm from hardwood.

Measure the distance from the protruding end of the top shelf E to the inside of the post D, closest to the platform base, and file the guide rails to that length. Glue them into the tongues of the movable stops, aligning the ends with the shoulders of the dust-proof folds, as shown in the figure. Note. A la a slotting machine with front clamping of workpieces, you may need to make a cutout on the sliding stop that allows you to move the stop to the center of the table.

7. How to use extensions

First, secure the platform base along with the machine to the workbench with clamps. Then install the extensions on both sides, aligning them with the front edge of the platform and inserting the platform posts B between the extension posts D and the clamping plates F. Secure the extensions to the platform using clamps. If the mobile stop needs to be installed at a greater distance from the machine, secure both extensions with clamps, placing them on one side of the platform, as shown in the photo. (In this example, the distance from the disc to the stop was 1620 mm.)

A tool designed to cut all kinds of materials and surfaces at a certain angle is called a miter saw. It is used in the processing of wood, tiles, plastic, as well as metal and many other construction products.

When working with such a heavy tool, you can make construction tasks much easier if you use a special miter saw table. You simply cannot do without this in production, but you can also make such a table at home, for example, in a garage or workshop with my own hands, if you use drawings. This tool will serve as the basis for placing the saw and will facilitate processing and cutting materials.

Description of the product being manufactured

Crosscut table It is a horizontal base on the surface of which the cutting element is placed and secured. This design is usually made of a metal profile, durable plastic and strong wooden planks. Together, these materials provide a strong, stable position for the cutting element and ease of use of the saw, especially when processing long materials.

Based on the length of the pipes or boards that you plan to cut, the table must be made of a certain size. Therefore, for comfortable cutting, such a tool is often made sliding, however, you can choose a permanent model.

The table can be stationary or, when installing additional wheels, portable, but in any case, the surface must stand firmly on the floor and not move while processing products.

Preparing to make a table

All kinds of such tables can be found in construction stores, from the cheapest to large professional ones, however, there are situations when it is not possible to purchase this product. It is in such cases that you should make a homemade workbench for such a tool.

First of all, in the process of making a table you need to consider several important points:

choosing a convenient free space to install the table;
mandatory installation of fastening for stationary placement of the tool;
dimensions of processed materials for their successful placement;
the type and dimensions of the miter saw itself, which will be installed on the table.

The next step will be to analyze and implement the points listed above, since the successful production of the table directly depends on this. After studying the instructions for assembling the table, preparing the drawings, as well as the necessary building materials You can safely begin the main part of all the work.

Assembling the table with your own hands

Tool assembly can be divided into work with several parts. Its main components include a frame, side extensions, side stops, pressure plates and a base-platform for the saw.

Let's look at each part in order of importance.

Frame

The frame of the product is best made from a metal profile (aluminum or steel), and its cross-section is usually selected from the existing assortment in the store. The dimensions of the frame, as fundamental for the table, are determined by the free space around, the dimensions of the cutting element and the type of product (non-movable or mobile).

In accordance with the dimensions of the saw you are considering, the frame design includes the level of the bottom line of the potential cut and the possibility of changing the position of the saw on the frame.

Side extensions

When interacting with particularly large materials, the table requires the installation of side extensions made of metal, a durable sheet of plastic or wood. Upon completion of processing, due to their design, they are lowered to the sides of the installation.

You can make a model with retractable rather than retractable extensions, for example, on a shelf inside a table.

Side stops

To facilitate the milling process, parallel side stops are attached to a homemade table.

They are often made from boards and plastic, but we recommend using them as stops metal corners with clamping elements.

With their help, the corners are attached to the working miter table.

Pressure plates

The pressure plates on the table are: metal profile and equip it with a device for rigid fixation with the surface. The installation of the plates occurs as follows: one element is placed under the working surface, and the second is placed above it. Next, the bolted connection is tightened, tightly squeezing the materials together.

Saw installation

After assembly metal frame and by assembling the extensions, stops and pressure plates, you can proceed to the final stage. Installation of the miter saw involves placing it on the platform base and fastening the parts with screws.

Reliability check

The final stage is to check the integrity and overall reliability of the cross-cutting table.

Make sure the bed is stationary, the roller stand if equipped, and any other swivel mechanism work correctly, and the saw does not have any difficulty cutting when plugged in.

The overall reliability of the table is assessed by performing a trial run.

Buying a circular saw is one thing, but the amount of work that needs to be done with the tool is quite another. The construction worker does not always know how much material he will have to cut in a certain amount of time.

The opposite also happens - the need to purchase a table for a circular saw arises immediately after purchasing the equipment.

But what if the need arose by chance or the cost of the product in the store is confusing? The answer is simple - make a table for a hand-held circular saw with your own hands. A step-by-step consideration of the issue follows.

General design requirements

Mandatory requirements include:

rigidity (stability) of the structure;
smooth, level table surface;
safe fastening of the saw;
the presence of a guard from the cutting disc;
easy access to start and stop buttons.

Availability additional functions depends on the requirements of the work and the wishes of the master. These include the ability to perform high-quality longitudinal and cross cuts.

It is advisable that the table frame includes legs, rather than solid sheets of plywood or chipboard. In the latter case, the convenience of work comes into question, since it is uncomfortable for the operator to stand at the machine.

Standard products, of which there are hundreds in stores, are made from stainless steel. This excellent material, however, the production of a table under circular saw made of wood.

Design Features

It is characterized by simplicity. Experienced craftsmen are able to create a table for a circular table without any diagrams or drawings. The table consists of two main elements - the base (legs) and smooth surface for laying workpieces.

The circular saw is mounted on the inside (bottom) side of the table upside down, and a cut is made in the table itself for the working part - the disk. The width of the slot should slightly exceed the thickness of the disk (by 1-2 mm), but no more, otherwise chips and dust will clog the device. So it will fail early.

It is recommended to choose a tool with a power of no more than 1.2 kW. The more powerful the saw, the more durable and stable the table will be needed. As a result, the user will overpay for the tool and invest more money in materials, but the result of the work will not change.

As for the diameter of the disk, it should be as large as possible, since the tabletop “eats” part of it work surface and reduces the depth of cut.

It is better to take a tool with a stamped steel sole; The cast base will crack easily when drilling holes.

After homemade table for a circular saw will be assembled; the manufacture of longitudinal, transverse and angular stops is allowed. They will make the user's work easier, increase efficiency, but in this material will not be considered.

Necessary equipment

A sheet of plywood or Chipboard thickness from 2 cm. This size is enough for reliable fixation heavy circular saw on the inside of the table top. Also for production you will need:

directly the tool with the cutting disc;
edged board 50x100 mm;
a 50x50 mm block for the legs (or a smaller section, depending on the power of the saw);
antiseptic and wood varnish;
wood glue;
self-tapping screws;
drill;
screwdriver;
electric jigsaw;
milling machine;
clamps;
ruler (tape measure) and pencil;
plane;
medium to fine grit sandpaper.

When the listed materials and tools are at hand, it’s time to get to work.

Preparatory stage

Here, the first thing to consider is the length and width of the future table. The optimal dimensions are 1200x1200 mm. The oblong hole for the saw blade is selected based on the diameter of the latter and slightly exceeds it.

A circular saw installed under a tabletop should not overhang the table in any direction. The tool is located strictly in the center of the product.

Suitable materials for the base are chipboard, chipboard, MDF, OSB, plywood. Metal is not considered, as it will make the structure heavier and cost more. Plastic is the worst material and is not recommended by experts.

Everything before assembly wooden elements tables are treated with antiseptics and agents that increase resistance to rot. After completely dry The materials are adjusted to size and the production of the table begins.

Main part of the work

You can assemble a table for a circular table with your own hands (with drawings) in the following way:

Production and preparation of tabletops

The prepared material is marked with a pencil and tape measure (ruler) based on the required dimensions. Next, cut the template with a jigsaw and mill the edges. Armed sandpaper medium and then fine grain, the future tabletop is processed until the surface is smooth.

Next, turn the tabletop over and mark a place on it for the sole of the circular saw. To do this, you just need to put the tool down and trace the sole, having first removed the disc. Using a milling cutter, select a recess from 5 to 10 mm, depending on the height of the sole.

Drawing tool attachment points

The saw is tried on the notch, then the places where it is fixed and the slot for the cutting element are marked.

Preparing stiffening ribs for table legs

These are boards 50x100 mm. They are placed at a distance of 8-10 cm from the edge of the tabletop along the perimeter. The board is applied with the smaller side to the tabletop, traced on one side, and the markings are transferred to the other.

It is advisable to immediately mark the position of the screws and drill holes for them. The fasteners will be located every 10-15 cm along the length of the stiffener.

Marking for longitudinal stiffeners

Based on the dimensions of the table for the circular saw, mark out the longitudinal stiffening ribs and cut them out. They are fixed directly with glue and tightened with clamps. After the first ones dry, similar actions are performed with the side stiffeners.

Fixation with self-tapping screws

The clamps are not removable. Along the perimeter, the structure is tightened with self-tapping screws along pre-drilled holes.

The caps of the fasteners must be completely recessed into the tabletop.

Stiffening ribs

You will need longer self-tapping screws than those used to secure the ribs to the countertop. After screeding, the clamps can be removed. The tabletop is ready!

Making legs

A timber with a cross-section of 30x30 mm is taken. The length of the legs should ensure ease of use. Usually the distance from the floor to the tabletop is 110-120 cm, so the legs are made a couple of centimeters shorter.

After cutting out the legs, they are applied to the tabletop, and will be placed slightly out of position. The bars are fixed with bolts on the outside of the stiffeners.

To increase the rigidity of the structure, it is permissible to make additional timber ties between the legs

Mounting a circular saw

It's a small matter. The circular saw is placed inside the prepared hole. The sole is bolted, and the toothed disk should fit into the slot without any hindrance.

The table for the circular saw is almost ready. Now it needs to be treated with a moisture-protecting material, then varnished in several layers (to minimize slipping).

The resulting design can be supplemented with anything at the discretion of the user ( protective cover, device for adjusting the tilt of the disk, carriage and others).

A few words about electronics

A circular saw is an electrical equipment that operates when there is a 220 V power source nearby. If the user has sufficient knowledge and experience in the field of electronics, he can bypass the start and stop keys of the saw, and then take them to convenient place(usually this is the outer side of one of the stiffeners).

If the circuit seems complicated, you should tighten the start button with a wire and turn on the equipment using a power cord. But this method is bad because it eliminates the possibility of quickly shutting down the tool in the event of an emergency.

Work safety requirements

One of the causes of injuries when working with a circular saw is a cluttered workplace. It is also important to monitor the stability and strength of all structural elements, and if unbalanced, take measures to eliminate problems.

Before turning on the saw, you need to make sure that it is well secured. If necessary, tighten the screws/bolts.

It is strictly forbidden to hold onto the material close to the cutting site! This is fraught with the risk of knots and chips rebounding into the eyes or onto open parts of the body. Be sure to wear glasses and long sleeves before work.

Making your own table for a circular saw is not that difficult task, as it may seem. If you have it on hand good material, its parameters are chosen correctly, and the power of the instrument varies from 500 to 1000 W, the above instructions will become the basis of the work.

Do not forget that at each stage of table manufacturing you need to check the accuracy of your own actions. Otherwise, if deviations in size or deformation of the legs occur when tightening the stiffeners, it will be very difficult to restore stability. However, making a table for a circular table with your own hands is a very real task that takes a couple of hours, which thousands of people have already completed.

Useful video from foreign colleagues

The video shows the process of making a table for a circular saw by our foreign colleagues. Interesting and educational video