How to attach imitation timber from the outside. How to attach imitation timber? Comparison of suitable and not so suitable devices How to correctly nail imitation timber to the facade

Houses and cottages made of wood are gaining more and more popularity every year. But there are many ordinary people who do not want to use timber as building material however, decorate the house in style wooden structure would not refuse. In such a situation, the most the best option is an imitation of timber.

How can you imitate timber?

The effect of simulating timber in modern construction is achieved by using a board that has been chamfered and profiled to match the timber. Such wooden panels are always attached horizontally, unlike conventional siding, and allow you to create the effect of a house built from natural wood.

Sanding also helps to remove minor defects and stains from the surface of the board and bring its surface to the desired state, in which the siding will look as attractive as possible (decorative shine, rich texture, etc.).

How to do it yourself

Before attaching false beams to the facade, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the house. First, the wall must be cleaned and a waterproofing layer applied. Next, you should fix the vapor barrier sheets, which should overlap (approximately 150 mm). It is better to start fastening the sheets from the top of the wall, and all seams and joints in mandatory glue with aluminum tape.

Having made sure that after the above work the wall has a flat surface, you need to begin installing the sheathing on which the imitation timber will be attached. The sheathing must be fixed in vertical position, since the wooden lining is mounted horizontally.

As lathing, it is better to use wooden blocks that have a small cross-section and a thickness equal to the insulation layer (at least 50 mm). Also, a layer of fire-resistant coating and antiseptic will have to be applied to their surface.

In the event that the slats have to be mounted on brick wall, frame dowels should be used as fastening. For wooden walls Nails or screws will do.

Between the sheathing bars, mats are inserted from mineral wool or polystyrene foam. If necessary, the insulation is attached to the wall with special dowels. A moisture-proof film is laid on top of the insulation, all joints of which are taped with aluminum tape.

Recommended on finished design fasten another sheathing, the presence of which will allow ventilation between the layer of boards profiled for timber and the wall surface. The thickness of the slats in this case should not exceed 50 mm.

When all of the above work is completed, you can begin installing the lining. Sheathing a house with imitation timber begins, as a rule, from the bottom of the facade, which allows you to direct the tenon of the board upward. This will help prevent moisture from accumulating in the grooves.

A gap of 50 mm must be left at the bottom and top for ventilation of the internal space under the lining. There should also be a distance of 3-5 mm between the boards themselves. This will help avoid distortion of the false timber when temperature and humidity levels change due to changing seasons.

The bottom board should be leveled using a building level and only then securely fastened. This is important because it will act as a guide for other components of the cladding.

How to properly attach the lining

In order to reliably and correctly fix a profiled board, you must adhere to several simple principles.

As mentioned above, it starts from the bottom of the wall. After the first board is fixed at the bottom with the tenon facing up, the next one is inserted with the groove into the tenon, leaving a gap of several millimeters between the boards.

Attached siding using 3 screws on each side: one is driven in the upper part, the other in the lower part and the third at an angle of 45 ° directly into the tenon itself.

Also, clamps - special metal brackets - are often used as fastenings to imitate timber. They allow you to install the lining without drilling the board itself. That is, the integrity of the material is not compromised. Moreover, the cladding attached to the clamps can be dismantled at any time while preserving the material itself from damage, which is very convenient for finishing work indoors.

Thus, the installation process is simple enough that you can do it yourself.

Installation of false timber, imitating the surface of a timber wall, allows you to create an attractive facade surface. When installing the material, it is important to correctly complete all the steps involved. process stages, including fastening the imitation timber, which is performed in several ways. You can read about how to sheathe a house with false timber without violating established technology in the article.

Preliminary activities

In every job it is important proper preparation to her. It consists of the following processes preceding the main work:

calculation and purchase of necessary materials;
preparation of purchased materials;
preparation of tools that will be needed for work.

Let's consider what preparatory steps will help you successfully cover a building with imitation timber with your own hands.

We calculate the required material

To calculate the material for the upcoming work, you need to know what technology will be used. The facade is sheathed with false timber with or without preliminary insulation. In the first case, except cladding panels, you will need:

windproof film;
vapor barrier membrane;
basalt insulation in mats (mineral wool);
timber for the base sheathing (50x50);
timber (slat) for counter-lattice (50x30);
fasteners for the main sheathing (U-shaped hangers for plasterboard profiles are suitable);
wood screws.

If insulation is not included in the plans, we exclude from the list wind protection and vapor barrier, insulation and batten for the counter-lattice.

Materials from the first three items on the list are calculated as follows: total wall area, minus windows and doors, plus 10%. The lumber for the base sheathing is calculated taking into account the guide pitch of 60 cm (corresponding to the width of the insulation mats). For counter-lattice, the optimal pitch of the posts is 50 cm, taking into account additional slats to “go around” the door and window openings. Fastenings for the main guides are installed every 70-80 cm, which is what should be taken into account when calculating their required quantity.

The calculation of false timber depends on whether it is made to order (in this case there is less waste) or purchased in plates of a certain length. In the second situation, you need to take about 5% of the total area of the walls without openings as a reserve.

If you purchase untreated panels, you need to consider purchasing primers and targeted impregnations for wood (antifungal, antibacterial, reducing the ability to burn, etc.).

Pre-installation preparation of false beams

Imitation timber is made from solid wood and varies in the degree of surface treatment and quality of raw materials, so it is often necessary to additionally sand the front surface. To avoid doing this on the wall, it is much more convenient to modify the panels before installation. Considering the considerable surface area, it is better to use an electric sander for these purposes, since manual sanding will take a lot of time and effort, but will not give the desired quality.

Also, before installation, the panels are treated with various impregnations and primers. Firstly, it is possible to process the false timber strips from all sides. Secondly, again, it’s much more convenient. As a result, after installing the imitation timber, all that remains is to open the finished surface with stain or varnish.

Preparing the tool

To carry out the entire range of work on installing a ventilated facade using false timber as a finishing cladding, you will need the following tools:

jigsaw (for sawing wood panels);
water (laser) level for marking the starting horizontal line;
screwdriver;
hammer drill (if the base wall is made of brick or concrete);
measuring tape;
square;
a small hammer (if you plan to fasten the planks with galvanized nails).

Having prepared the necessary tools, you can begin installing the sheathing and thermal insulation.

Assembling the basic frame and insulating the walls

In order to install timber on the facade of a house, or rather to imitate it, it is not necessary to insulate the walls. However, it is better and more expedient to take care of thermal insulation right away, even if the walls do not seem too cold. As practice shows, insulation is never superfluous, and thermal insulation made from the inside is less effective and takes up useful living space, so we will consider how to sheathe a building with false timber with preliminary insulation.

Imitation timber panels are always installed only horizontally. Therefore, the counter batten slats should have a vertical direction, and the base sheathing bars should have a horizontal direction.

Just a note. The counter-lattice is needed to ensure that there is sufficient space between the insulation and the sheathing for ventilation, which prevents condensation from accumulating. This is the essence of the definition of “ventilated facade”.

Let's move on to practice and consider the sequence of work operations using the example of one of the walls of the building.

We cover the surface of the base wall with a vapor barrier membrane. It is needed in order to protect the basalt insulation from steam penetrating from inside the house.
At the corners of the wall we install pins, between which, along a plumb line or level, we stretch vertically the threads corresponding to the outer surface of the main beams.
According to the threads, we install the beams in increments corresponding to the width of the insulation mats (usually 60 cm).
We lay basalt thermal insulation, making sure that there are as few gaps as possible between the mats, which are cold bridges.
The next step is windproof film. We roll out the canvas from top to bottom and attach it to the beams with a stapler. The next canvas overlaps the previous one by at least 15 cm.
We install counter-lattice slats on top of the base horizontal beams, pulling them to the guides with hardened (black) wood screws. The length of the screws is 55-60 mm with a strip thickness of 30 mm.

We create the same structure on the remaining walls, if possible tying (fixing with self-tapping screws) the beams of the base sheathing together, after which we proceed to the main stage - installation of the imitation beam.

DIY installation of false beams

Before we begin installing wooden cladding panels, let’s figure out how best to fix the planks. There are three options:

wood screws;
special nails;
clampers.

Which option should I choose? Let's look at each of them.

Self-tapping screws are the fastest way to fasten, but in order to prevent the wood from cracking, it is advisable to drill a hole for each screw whose diameter corresponds to the thickness of the screw. The disadvantage of this method is that the plank is rigidly attracted to the sheathing, which prevents minor movements of the material when the temperature changes. This puts stress on the wood, which can cause premature damage (cracking).

Nails (you need special ones with anti-corrosion galvanization) allow for movement, as they have smooth surface. But to work with them you need skill, without which not everyone will be able to correctly hammer small nails at the right angle without damaging the face of the panel.

Advice. If you still choose nails to hold the panels in place, in order to “finish them off” when the head is almost in, use the punch as a guide. The tip of the punch should be slightly larger than the diameter of the nail head.

Clamps are special brackets that grip the panel with one side and are pulled with self-tapping screws to the guide rail with the other. This is the most convenient way attach imitation timber. Installation in this way requires the purchase of clamps, which incurs additional costs - this is a minus.

Having decided on in a suitable way After fixing the panels, you can proceed to their direct installation, which occurs in the following sequence.

Using a laser (water level), a horizontal line is drawn along the perimeter of the building at the level of the top of the base. This line will correspond to the bottom edge of the first panel from the bottom.
First wood plate imitation timber is installed with the tenon down and fixed on both sides (top and bottom).
The second and subsequent panels are inserted with a tenon into the groove of the previous plank and are fixed only from above (to each vertical rail).
The topmost panel in most cases does not fit completely across its entire width. To cover the top of the wall, you have to saw the plank lengthwise according to the width of the open space, for which you will need a jigsaw.
In the corners of the building, so that the joint is unnoticeable and not noticeable, it is better to saw the mutually adjacent planks of adjacent walls at an angle of 45˚. It is possible to apply evenly cut edges to the ends of the planks installed on the adjacent wall.
If the length of the panel is not enough for the width of the wall, you need to connect the joining planks on a vertical rail, fixing the edge of each of them. To make the joint unnoticeable, it is better to cut the joining ends at an angle.

The corner joints of imitation timber panels and the edge areas near the openings can be covered with special platbands, which are attached on top of the wooden cladding with the same screws or nails.

False timber, originally intended for cladding facades, has now become widely used for interior decoration. The technology for installing it inside a building is not much different from facade installation, but still has a number of nuances, which you can find out by watching this video.

The installation of imitation timber with your own hands is completed. All that remains is to decorate the surface to your liking and enjoy the result of the work done.

All photos from the article

Before finishing works many novice craftsmen want to know how to attach imitation timber inside or outside the house, since they make a choice in favor of of this material. Such products are actually a variety wooden lining, therefore, all its qualities are inherent in it. Especially appreciated by consumers ecological cleanliness and aesthetic appeal.

Material base

Before fixing the finishing panels, it is necessary to prepare the surface properly. In this case, it is necessary to create a flat and stable base that will not be subject to deformation. It is recommended to consider two basic options.

Lathing made of boards or bars

Very often, attaching imitation timber to a wall requires creating load-bearing structure, since in most cases it is necessary to perform alignment.

As elements of the supporting system, bars with different sections or thickness of at least 25 mm are usually used.

Using a level, install the outermost posts. If the wall is too uneven, then pieces of wood are placed in certain places. When fixing, it is recommended to use self-tapping screws, since they can be used to pull out the sheathing elements;
A string is stretched at the top, bottom and in the central part, along which the intermediate posts will be aligned. To do this, small screws are screwed in in six places or nails are driven in. The string used should be well stretched;
The remaining parts are installed in increments of 40-50 cm supporting structure . Fasteners should be located at a distance of no more than 60 cm from each other. You should retreat about 50 mm from the floor and ceiling. If there are deflections in the lateral plane, it is necessary to use wood inserts.

Attention!
If necessary, you can make additional thermal insulation of the wall using foamed polyethylene or mineral wool.
In the first case, the material is placed under the sheathing, and in the second - between its elements.

Racks of a frame structure

When constructing a new facility, the finishing coating panels can be fixed directly to the elements of the finished frame. To protect the insulation, waterproofing must be installed. To create a ventilation gap, a control rail is usually installed.

Imitated beams are thin boards made from solid trees. This product is characterized by low cost, long-term use and environmental friendliness.

The structures are equipped with special tongues and grooves, which greatly facilitate the installation process. That is why every owner of a private home who has chosen this type facade finishing, knows how to attach imitation timber.

Imitation timber is considered to be panels processed in such a way that in appearance they are no different from natural facing material. The trapezoidal nature of the base allows them to imitate timber.

This type of building finishing is made from coniferous and deciduous wood. The properties of false timber are close to that of lining, but it is much more massive, and its front side is processed more carefully.

Boards imitating timber have the following positive aspects:

Resistance to rotting climate change and the influence of insects.
High thermal insulation coefficient.
Light weight, reducing the load on the façade surface.
No cracking throughout the entire service life.
The presence of grooves that facilitate the removal of condensate through back side panels.

Preparatory work prior to installation of false beams

Initially, the material contains about 14 percent moisture. When bad weather conditions providing high humidity air, it may expand slightly, absorbing additional water.

Fastening imitation timber immediately after purchase may lead to its further cracking and deformation, therefore, an initial week-long stay in the conditions in which it will be used in the future is useful for the imitation product. In other words, the boards must be freed from packaging and left for 7 days in the open air.

It is advisable to spend this period of time on making the sheathing. These are durable beams that are attached to the walls of a building in a vertical position using nails or screws. The distance between the elements ranges from 40 to 60 centimeters.

Materials intended for insulating the house are laid between the sheathing bars. Then the process of installing a membrane is carried out, which performs the function of protection from wind.

Types of fastening pseudo-beams to the facade surface

First of all, the boards are treated with a special antiseptic, which will significantly extend their service life. After this, the installation process begins, based on a movement from bottom to top, with a 15-centimeter distance from the bottom of the facade.

Do-it-yourself installation of imitation timber can be done in one of three ways:

Fastening panels with nails. This technology is the simplest and cheapest. It involves the use of galvanized nails, which are driven into the boards through the tenons. However, this often contributes to the disruption of the attractive appearance of the cladding and deformation of the product as a result of hammer blows.
Use of screws and self-tapping screws. To successfully install a material that imitates natural timber, self-tapping screws are attached to the tenon at an angle of 45 degrees. Another variation is to drill holes in the front of the panel. All openings are subsequently filled with adhesive and isolated from prying eyes by using wooden plugs.
Operation of clampers. This method is based on installation using stamped products made of steel. Installed brackets attach the panels to the guide rails through conventional hanging. Despite its simplicity, this type of fastening is not popular because it does not guarantee 100% reliability.

Stages of installation of structures

Do-it-yourself imitation timber is quite easy to install. This can be accomplished without the help of professional builders. To do this, you just need to follow this algorithm:

Using a water level, a line is drawn corresponding to the location of the first board.
The first strip is attached from above and below.
All subsequent structures are attached using the tongue-and-groove technology and are fixed only at the top.
The board, located in the upper part of the facade, is cut with a jigsaw in order to obtain the desired size.
The panel installed in the corner part of the building is sawn at a 45-degree angle.
The joints are combined on a vertical rail.

Strict adherence to the above steps will allow even an amateur to understand how to properly attach an imitation beam.

Imitation timber is used for external or internal finishing. This interior decoration is more significant and practical than it might seem at first glance. If you want to give your home original design with your own hands, but there is no money for natural wood, then imitation timber is ideal. And from a psychological point of view, the house will acquire the comfort and coziness characteristic only natural wood. But if you look from the other side, this is a simple and universal material to install that can easily and efficiently level walls that require repairs.

The thickness of wooden panels for interior decoration is usually no more than 20 mm. And the width varies.

Imitation of timber

And do not forget that panels larger than 100-150 mm will visually make the room smaller. Therefore, imitation finishing is usually done in panels less than 100 mm wide. The data will not lose its quality and reliability characteristics.

The choice of material for interior decoration should be taken carefully and efficiently. Since each room inside the house has its own characteristics and features, the material must be selected accordingly.

Let's take a closer look at the types of rooms in a frame house:

1) Rooms that do not have an interior. This type can be classified as closed verandas and, dacha rooms, and rooms where a heating system is not provided. Both pine beams and galvanized gypsum plasterboard profiles are used as lathing for such rooms. The panels themselves must be treated with special antiseptic impregnations or drying oil in several layers.

2) Rooms with heating system. These comfortable conditions allow you to use wooden beam without careful processing of the panels.

Preparatory work

All uneven walls must be leveled as much as possible. Clear from various contaminants and dust. It is necessary to attach it to the walls, then lath it. It is made from material, focusing on the design of the room. The sheathing is attached vertically with a certain step of 70 cm. The sheathing is attached to the walls using dowels, and to wooden ones using self-tapping screws. Panels for lathing dry rooms must be treated with special antiseptics before fastening. For wet and damp rooms, use a galvanized profile. If the ceiling is also sheathed, then it is necessary to do. Afterwards they install the cash register.

Panels under timber are always mounted and fastened only horizontally. The mounting methods are very similar to the façade finishing. Very convenient for finishing interior rooms- brands. But installing panels on the ceiling with these devices is not very convenient. It is better to use self-tapping screws or small nails. They need to be screwed into the tenon at a certain angle of about 45 degrees. It is not very advisable to fasten the panels inside with a face-to-face method. Due to their insignificant thickness, it is quite difficult to hide the caps and they will be visible, and this can ruin appearance all walls.