How the handle is attached to the shovel. How and from what to make a reliable handle for a shovel? Tooth mounting profile

A shovel is one of the most indispensable tools, both in the life of a gardener and in many working professions. During work, first of all, attention is paid to the base of the shovel; if it is sharp enough and strong enough, then working with it is much easier, but defects in the handle remain aside. However, if suddenly the cutting is very long or, on the contrary, too short, shaky, the wood threatens to dry out, then it is absolutely impossible to work, and labor efficiency is reduced to zero. In addition to the usual wooden ones, there are also aluminum handles for shovels. They are renowned for their greater durability and resistance to erosion. In this article we will talk about how to make a shovel handle.

How to choose the right handle for a shovel

The main problem for craftsmen when choosing a handle is haste, as well as often ignorance, since they choose the first one they come across and already at home there are quite great difficulties in attaching the handle to the bayonet. In order to avoid making such mistakes, you should at least general outline get acquainted with the types of shovels.

There are 3 types garden shovels:

digging,
excavation,
universal.

In each of these types there are significant differences in the thickness, dimensions of the metal sheet and lining, and therefore the handle must be selected based on these parameters.

Secondly, manufacturers often do not pay due attention to drying the product, as a result of which deformation and cracks occur as it dries. The optimal moisture content of purchased wood should not exceed 15%. If you suspect excessive moisture in a purchased product, you can dry it yourself, however, even in this case, defects due to the low quality of the raw materials cannot be ruled out.

Thirdly, the handle is turned as universally as possible using a machine for use with any tool. As a result, it does not fit deep enough into the shovel and requires manual adjustment.

Often, sellers carefully disguise all sorts of defects to increase the price of the product. It is not so easy to identify this on site, but during operation, over time, they begin to appear and cause great inconvenience.

In addition, there are difficulties in determining the material from which it is made. finished product. After all, not everyone is capable of professional level distinguish one type of wood from another, but the cost of the product largely depends on this factor.

Undoubtedly, most often handmade products are inferior in aesthetics to industrial ones, but with the right approach they will be a hundred steps ahead of them in functionality, convenience and quality. To obtain a strong and comfortable handle for a shovel, it is better to start with the selection of material. The strength and appearance finished product.

The main types of wood that can be used to make shovel cuttings:

pine - despite the fact that the material is quite easy to process and, due to impregnation with resins, is not afraid of moisture, it has a very short shelf life, since it is very fragile, with low density. At the same time, a large percentage of products on the market are made from pine, since it is a cheap and easy-to-process type of wood,
birch is quite strong, inexpensive and easy to process. Its main advantage is its ability to withstand heavy loads. The best option for making cuttings,
beech - very similar in quality to birch, but requires longer processing, since the resin content is minimal and additional protection from moisture is required,
poplar is a light type of wood, behaves well when processed, is characterized by sufficient strength and durability,
oak is the strongest of all materials, but very heavy in weight, and therefore handles for shovels are rarely made from it - the tool must be light enough to be comfortable to work with. In addition, oak is quite difficult to manual processing, and the cost of such a cutting will be unreasonably high.

Thus, of all types of wood, birch is best suited for making cuttings for shovels. This material can be found without much difficulty at a sawmill or on the market. It should first be checked for cracks, rot or other defects. It is advisable to choose raw materials from minimum quantity knots or without them at all.

The length of the shovel handle is worth paying attention to special attention. It is optimal when the length of the product reaches the worker’s shoulder, which, according to rough calculations, is 140-180 cm. However, this value may vary depending on individual preferences, a person’s height and the purpose of using the shovel in the future, because a handle that is too long can cause some inconvenience in operation .

How to make a shovel handle

The classic shape of the shovel handle is round. It is ideal if the work involves rotation in your hands. Most of the products on the market are round in shape, but there are also square cuttings. They are less popular and are used solely as desired. In the instructions described below, we will talk about making a round-shaped cutting. With basic carpentry skills, any patient and hardworking owner can handle the job.

Required Tools:

plane,
saw on wood,
hammer,
sandpaper,
antiseptic impregnation,
glue,
clear wood varnish or paint.

Making a handle for a shovel occurs in several stages:

First you need to select the material from which the cutting will be made. In order for the finished product to be perfectly even, you should choose a board or branch twice as thick as the expected diameter of the shovel handle. Carefully inspect it for bends, branches, knots and other defects.

Next, you should dry the wood well for 15-20 days in the sun. If you use a special blank, you can skip this step.

Using a plane, you should remove all excess and bring the blank to the required volume of wood, level it to the level and align it along the axis with a scrolling motion.

So you will get rough workpiece, which should then be sanded. If you have a special grinder in the tools at hand, this greatly simplifies the work. If grinder no, you should first go over a large blank sandpaper, and then process it with fine-grain paper.

At this stage, you need to re-inspect the workpiece, since sanding removes a significant layer of wood, and hidden defects can be identified and removed.

If you are not using a special purchased blank, you should soak the handle with an anti-corrosion suspension and allow it to dry for 24 hours.

The final step is to coat the cutting with varnish or paint. To do this, you need to go over the entire area in 2 layers. Apply the second layer after completely dry previous one. This process is optional, but it allows you to increase the service life several times. Besides, varnish coating reduces the risk of throwing your hands away while working.

How to put a shovel on a handle

A lot depends on how well the shovel is mounted on the handle. First of all, ease of use and productivity.

This process can be divided into several stages.

A shovel is one of the most important tools for gardening and construction work. The handle is the most vulnerable part of the tool and periodically requires repair or replacement. You can buy a shovel handle in a store or make it yourself.

Description

A shovel is hand tool, designed for digging, carrying and clearing. It consists of a tray (canvas) and a handle (handle). It is usually chosen based on its base, which must be sharp and durable. Pay attention to the cuttings last resort. Meanwhile, it is the shovel handle that is responsible for the convenience and quality of work.

Finished products offered for sale in the store are made using special equipment. Production of shovel cuttings in batches large size carried out thanks to the operation of several machines:

round rod machine;
cylindrical grinding;
occipital

Just a note. Finished tools and components meet all quality parameters.

Handle for bayonet and garden shovel

A bayonet shovel is used in the garden for digging up soil and performing all work related to sowing and caring for plantings. It has a rectangular blade; there is a handle at the end of the handle for more comfortable grip. The tool should not increase the load on the back and arms. Therefore, it is important to choose a comfortable handle.

A well-made handle for a bayonet shovel must meet several conditions. The length of the handle, the quality of the wood, the strength of the attachment to the base - all these factors affect the efficiency of work.

Shovel handle

The plastic handle is light in weight, but fragile when bent and does not hold well in the hands, as it slips in wet palms. The durable and erosion-resistant aluminum stem has more long term operation. The aluminum handle is light but cool.

Well suited for a bayonet shovel wood material. Hands do not stick to it, there is no risk of chipping or breaking. This product is inexpensive, lightweight, and can retain heat.

A modern, durable and strong material is stainless steel. This fabric is more suitable for physically strong people. For example, steel handle Fiskars shovel has a special shape. The manufacturer made it hollow inside and very durable. The tool is suitable for working with clay and rocky soil.

fiskars shovels

Usually a bayonet shovel is equipped with a straight handle. The scoop type of tool can be produced with a curved handle and a handle at the end. The handle at the top of the handle makes work easier as it prevents the tool from rotating during operation.

The diameter of the handle for a bayonet shovel is made in the range of 34-40 mm. Its length on average ranges from 120 to 180 cm. For a shovel, the handle should be shorter. The handle of the sapper shovel has the shortest length - no more than 80 cm.

There is also an improved model - telescopic. The length of the handle, adjustable to suit any height, allows you to perform all types of gardening work.

Telescopic

Defects in the handle can become a serious obstacle to the normal use of the shovel. Don't rush and buy the first copy you come across. To pick up the right option handles, you should know the characteristics of your bayonet shovel. Tools differ in size and blade thickness, divided into 3 categories: P, V, U. Correct cutting is selected in accordance with these data.

Productivity and ease of use depend on the length of the handle. Usually the length of the handle is selected depending on the height of the person. The cutting should be 10 cm short of the shoulder or elbow bend.

Pay attention! Preferable for handle hardwood deciduous species: birch, alder, ash. The tree should be free of wormholes, nicks, knots and cracks if it is of the highest grade.

Homemade cuttings

Even a novice craftsman can make a homemade handle for a shovel. If you apply a little effort, then technical qualities homemade products will not be inferior to the characteristics of the factory manufacturer. Required materials and tools:

board, slab or branch;
circular saw;
electric plane;
hand plane;
screwdriver;
self-tapping screw

Handle for a shovel - production begins with the choice of material. The quality of the wood determines the strength of the product, as well as its appearance. The most popular and affordable is birch wood. You can purchase inexpensive blanks or look for material at a sawmill. It is advisable to find a tree without flaws (knots, bends, crooked fibers).

Important! The branch for the future handle should be 2 times thicker than the required diameter. The length of the cutting is selected taking into account the fact that about 10 cm will be planted in the shovel bucket. It is better to make the handle a little longer and then file it down than to make the handle too short.

The branch or board is dried in the sun for 15-20 days. After drying, the diameter of the branch becomes smaller. If you use a special blank, you can skip this step.

Work progress:

The dried branch is processed with a plane, bringing it to the desired diameter. After this, the handle is sanded with sandpaper. If a board is used as a material, it is processed circular saw and an electric planer until you get a rectangular strip with a 3X4 section.
You need to decide on the shape of the future handle. Most ready-made shovel handles have a round shape. To create a round cutting you need to use with a hand plane to smooth the corners of the workpiece. But the rectangular handle has an advantage - it will not slip or twist out of your hands.
The end of the handle must be gradually sharpened, constantly trying it on the bayonet, so as not to remove too much wood.
The sharpening of the bar is continued until it begins to fit halfway into the bayonet groove. When processing the end of the handle, the bend and unevenness of the groove should be taken into account.
The pointed end of the handle is beveled towards the blade of the shovel so that it can easily enter the soil.
A properly sharpened handle will easily fit 2/3 into the shovel. Its further advancement to the end of the groove needs to be helped. With the shovel turned upside down, the shovel is hit against a hard surface to push the handle into the shovel until it stops.
For reliability, it is fixed in the groove using a screw or nail. You can use epoxy resin as a sealant. The pointed end is coated around the circumference epoxy resin, place it on a shovel, fill it with resin again, then seat the cutting to the required depth. The resin should be allowed to dry for 24 hours.
Irregularities on the handle are smoothed out with sandpaper. To protect the wood, you need to coat it with a waterproof varnish. A handle can be attached to the rear end of the handle for convenience.

The shovel handle is ready.

Pay attention! Protection wooden handle using varnish or paint helps protect it from dampness and damage. However, increased slippage of the handle in wet palms occurs, which leads to the formation of calluses and dropsy.

Experienced craftsmen recommend not varnishing. It is better to apply impregnation and sand the surface. Consecutive sanding with large and small fractions allows you to polish the wood and give it strength.

The first step is to determine the ideal size. It is generally accepted that the height should be exactly at the worker’s shoulder, that is, approximately from 140 cm to 180 cm, depending on your height. You can make it a little shorter, especially if you plan to, because too long can cause you some inconvenience during subsequent use. Naturally, for a sapper shovel this figure generally decreases to 70-80 cm, perhaps even less if it is traveling.

Now we need to choose the material. Not only the strength, but also the appearance of your product will depend on its quality, since some types of wood may suffer when further dried or when wet in winter. Let's take a closer look at what is best to make a cutting from, and what is better to immediately throw in the trash.

Pine. The most primitive material that is abundant on the market. Making a holder from it is a pleasure: it’s quick, very easy to process, sands effectively, and looks beautiful. The only drawback is that it does not work for a long time; with more or less normal force, it will crack on the first branch or even on a “live” one. The amount of resin in pine is very small; it is brittle, brittle, and has low density. If you need to use it, it is better to glue 2-3 planks together and only then plan it this item– increases strength and wear resistance.
Birch. Strong, cheap, simple. Of the light species, birch is the best option. It is strong enough to withstand a significant load on the cutting and not break when digging up heavy soil. It is also good in processing, it is easy to plan, the fibers are removed evenly, grinding takes a little longer, but its quality will be higher than the first option.
Ash. Expensive, but high quality. Make dozens of cuttings from of this material unprofitable because the cost is very high. But, If you need to make 1-2 holders for yourself personally, then you can fork out and buy a blank made of ash. The density of wood is 1.4 times higher than that of pine or birch, has longitudinal fibers, and a very low deformation coefficient (will not bend).
Oak. Expensive, durable, but heavy. One of the biggest disadvantages of beech and larch is their high density. It is difficult to work with such a holder, but it all depends on the purpose of the tool. If work is required to tear out the foundation and cut down the roots, then this product will be ideal for solving such a task.

Based on the species described above, we will choose birch for our cutting, which can be found at any sawmill and purchased inexpensively. It would be best to glue the cutting from 2-3 strips, but if you are not particularly concerned about slight deformation over time, you can use a standard blank.

Step-by-step instructions for making a holder

To make a shovel handle, technical specifications which will not be inferior to factory performance, it is necessary to pay attention not only to its fit, but also to anti-corrosion treatment. The easiest option is to buy a blank, but you can make it yourself, which is what we’ll do now.

Step 1 Search for material.

In order to make a truly even holder that would satisfy your requirements, you need to choose a branch that will be 2 times thicker required diameter. Try to choose without knots, branches, or bends so that the fibers are as even as possible.

Step 1 Adjustable to the correct size.

First you need to dry it. 20 days in sunlight will be enough. Then take a plane and remove the required amount of wood. Align with a bar or level, scroll and align relative to the axis. Extremely precise dimensions are not needed, but it should not be made crooked either.

Step 1 Processing.

Be sure to sand it to avoid nicks. This can be done with a special machine or manually. First go over with coarse-grained sandpaper, then with fine-grained sandpaper. Next, we impregnate it with a special suspension for wood, you can buy it in any store. We let it dry for 24 hours, then we cover the entire area with varnish in 2 layers so that the appearance is just perfect - this is not necessary, but wouldn’t you be pleased to work with such a shovel?

Now all we have to do is let the varnish dry for at least 24 hours and we can assume that we have figured out how to make a handle for a shovel. If necessary, it can be adjusted to size, sharpened to fit the nozzle into a seat on the bucket, or perform any manipulations you like.

Properly planting the cuttings

A lot depends on this, and first of all, the comfort of work. If you don't have any play or spin, digging up soil and digging trenches will be much more enjoyable. Let's look at how to place a cutting on a shovel.

Step 1 Sharpening.

Measure the diameter of the hole. As a rule, they are made under a cone, but can be straight. In the second case, we need to measure the diameter - this figure should be in the middle of the future sharpening or even at a distance of 1/3 from the bottom. We remove the wood using sandpaper at an angle of 20-25 degrees, you can do this with a knife, and then sand it with sandpaper for evenness.

Mass production of shovel handles, as is common in economic models focused solely on profit, constantly sacrifices quality and technological details process for the sake of quantity. Of course, everyone benefits if you buy a new shovel every season rather than every few years.

A shovel handle made incorrectly will very quickly lose its necessary qualities, and, as usual, it will have to be brought to condition manually again and again. Until one day it simply cracks along its entire length or simply breaks. Therefore, today we will understand the mistakes of mass production that leave us without a shovel handle. And we’ll solve the problem: what and how to make a handle for a shovel yourself.

1 Handle for a shovel - flaws in mass production

Woodworking enterprises, as a rule, will never tell you that in the pursuit of profit and quantity they are constantly forced to violate the necessary stages of technology for production wooden products on at least several points:

Instead of solid wood, shovel handles began to be made from waste.
Transport humidity is the maximum degree of drying, which is absolutely unacceptable in the production of high-quality and durable garden tools. The result is that when the shovel handle dries out, it becomes covered with cracks, the diameter decreases, and the holders become loose.
Sharpening of the working end is done to the arithmetic mean diameter of “any shovel.” The result is a loose fit of the shovel on the handle.
Any “decor” applied to the shovel handle: paint, putty, thermal film, etc. are not intended to extend the service life of the product, but only to mask production flaws, increase the final cost, or hide the original material from which the shovel handle was made.

2 A good handle for a shovel with your own hands

We will need:

hammer;
saw;
plane;
sandpaper;
glue;
impregnation;

For a shovel with a handle, you first need to determine two things for yourself: your diameter and length. Initially, need to take this thread, (if you make a solid and not a glued cutting), so that its diameter is almost twice as large as required.

Naturally, the fibers should be as straight as possible. That is: there should be no knots, no bends, no forks on it. Then we dry it in the sun for about 15 days. The diameter will decrease slightly. Then, making sure that the wood is dry, we remove the excess layers with a plane, bringing the diameter of the handle to the final thickness we need.

Now we sand it with sandpaper, saturate it, let it dry for as long as it is written on the bottle of impregnation, coat it with varnish and let it dry again, following the instructions. It is better to cover it with varnish twice, thereby increasing the strength of the cutting.

Now we sharpen it to the required size, treat the cut area with impregnation, let it dry, then coat the circumference with epoxy, and place it on itself. Fill it with resin and hit the handle on a hard surface several times, allowing the shovel to settle to the desired depth. After a day, the resin will dry and...

If you decide to use boards instead of a solid branch, then do not forget about several points. The board is taken dry. Then it is cut into small pieces with a circular saw and left to dry.

If you took a raw board, then after sawing the bars need to be tied together along the entire length so that the drying pieces are less deformed. Then the bars will need to be glued together, dried well and then continued according to the previous scheme.

In addition, there is a question that is constantly discussed: whether to cover the cutting with paint or varnish. On the one hand – to increase the service life and in terms of anti-corrosion resistance – yes, it’s worth it.

But users note that additional surface treatment imparts considerable sliding and rolling torque in wet palms. And this is the reason for the occurrence of dropsy, calluses, etc.

Professionals advise that instead of varnish and paint, use impregnation and sand the surface. First in large fractions, then in small ones, to polish the cuttings naturally. Then, gradually absorbing moisture from the palms, properly selected wood will only become stronger and harder over time.

2.1 Making a shovel handle using a drill (video)

is a tool without which both gardening and construction work. However, in the process of using a good, comfortable shovel, few of us think about such a detail as the handle. We pay attention to it only when it makes work difficult: it begins to wobble, dry out, or becomes completely unusable for one reason or another. The inappropriate length of the cutting, too short or, conversely, long, also causes inconvenience.

So let's talk about how to choose the best shovel handle.

What should be the handle for a shovel?

As we all know, shovels come in bayonet and scoop types. And the cuttings for them are also different - this must be taken into account when purchasing. There are several selection criteria good cutting for a shovel:

One of the main ones is the material from which the cutting is made. For bayonet shovels, wooden handles are usually used, while for modern shovels, plastic and aluminum handles are quite acceptable. No less popular today are shovels with a metal handle made of stainless steel– they are considered the most durable. When purchasing a wooden cutting, inspect it from all sides: it should not cause concern in the form of nicks, knots, wormholes and all kinds of cracks. As for the type of wood, hardwood is the leader in quality - for example, birch, ash, alder. Beech cuttings for shovels “do not like” moisture - after work they should be brought indoors. The varieties of wooden cuttings also differ: the highest grade does not allow the presence of knots, unlike the first and second.
The shape of the handle is usually straight, but it may have curved handles or have a handle at the end for more comfortable work.
The diameter of the shovel handle can be different and ranges from 34 to 40 mm. It depends on the type of shovel (with a fork or T-shaped handle, with a ball or hemispherical head or with an iron rod), as well as on its purpose (gardening, construction or loading and unloading).
The length of the shovel handle should be selected individually. Take the handle in your hand and imagine how comfortable it will be for you to work with such a shovel. The standard length of the handle varies from 900 to 1400 mm.

If you have chosen the handle correctly, then placing it on the bayonet of a shovel will not be difficult. It will easily fit about 2/3 of the way into the shovel. And in order to push the pointed part of the handle all the way, you need to make several strong blows shovel on a hard surface.

If the wooden handle is too wide for metal hole in the shovel holder, it can always be trimmed using a plane, slightly sharpening one of the ends of the handle.

Many craftsmen prefer to make cuttings themselves. It's easy if you have it carpentry tool. In this case, for greater reliability, it is better to secure the result of connecting the bayonet with the handle with a self-tapping screw or an ordinary nail (in many shovels industrial production This clamp comes complete with the bayonet part).

And finally, another important question: do the shovel cuttings need to be treated with something? Most gardeners advise refraining from treating the cutting with varnish, paints and impregnations, since it is the cutting that experiences the full force of hand friction during any work. If desired, it can only be treated with wood stain - it will give it the desired color and emphasize the structure of the wood. After treatment, it is advisable not to use a shovel for 24 hours so that the stain is properly absorbed into the wood and does not stain your hands.