Let's sharpen the knife! The subtleties of working with a lawn mower. Proper sharpening of a lawn mower blade with your own hands Mechanical lawn mower Partner
Lawn mower blades should be sharpened at the first sign of poor quality work. This may be evidenced by unevenly mowed grass, uprooted bushes, increased tool operating time, and increased fuel consumption. Unlike the scythe, which we tried to work in the early morning, due to dew, it is advisable to use a power tool to work with dry grass. Wet grass clogs the casing and other cavities of the instrument faster and much more densely. Therefore, in case of abnormal operation of the tool, it is first necessary to clean the casing from adhering residues. After cleaning, you should inspect the cutting edges of the knives and determine the need for sharpening.
Unlike the scythe, which we tried to work in the early morning, it is advisable to work with a lawn mower on dry grass.
Tool preparation
Some manufacturers of powered lawn mowers do not recommend turning the tool over so that the oil in the crankcase does not get into the piston. This problem can be solved in two ways:
- drain the oil from the lawn mower;
- install it on supports that allow you to work under it.
Most tools can be tilted toward the handles for movement by first removing the grass hopper. The resulting space is usually sufficient for cleaning and access to the knives. On electrified tools and trimmers with all types of drive, the knives can be removed in any convenient position after cleaning. When removing knives from any tool, you must take the necessary safety measures to prevent the device from starting spontaneously. If the tool does not have a function for blocking the shaft from rotation, you should fix the shaft with any in an accessible way. You can use a piece of wood of the required size as a knife rest.
Removing the blades from the lawn mower
Good sharpening quality can be obtained by using emery machine with a device for processing at a certain angle.
The knives on many models are secured with a bolt located in the center, with an additional washer or a special bracket. The bolt must be unscrewed with an open-end wrench or a 19-mm socket. If unscrewing is difficult or there is not enough force, you need to tap the bolt with a hammer. The blows should be light, with high frequency.
Several series of strikes can be carried out. If after this you cannot unscrew the bolt, the connection must be poured with brake fluid or Pepsi-Cola. Leave in this state for several hours. Many experts confirm the ability of Pepsi-Cola to facilitate the unscrewing of threaded products.
You must use various levers and amplifiers with extreme caution so as not to rip off the bolt head or break the shaft locking mechanism.
If you cannot remove the knives yourself, you should contact specialists or a service workshop. If the knives are slightly damaged and there is free access, you can try to sharpen them without removing the tool.
Methods for sharpening knives
After removing the knife, you need to correctly assess its condition. Knives of many models undergo special heat treatment to increase hardness. Typically, such data is indicated in the manufacturer's instructions. If there are dents or bends in the knife, you can level it with a hammer on a flat, hard surface. The best option would be to use a blacksmith's anvil. If you don’t have it, you can use a railway rail, a piece of flat sheet metal more than 16 mm thick or a piece of rolled metal of sufficient strength. A product that cracks during leveling is not subject to further processing. Knives can be sharpened in the following ways:
It is more convenient to perform the sharpening operation with the tool fixed, moving the knife in a circle.
- hand tools;
- grinder with a set of circles;
- electric drill with attachment;
- emery machine.
Once the knife is straightened and any dents on the edge removed, you can begin sharpening. Depending on the available tools, work can be performed in various ways. For most options, it is desirable to have a bench vice that can securely fix the part in in the right position. Minor damage can be removed by using a file or a coarse sharpening stone. The final finishing of the knife should be done with a fine-grained stone or 0- or 1-number emery cloth. Manual sharpening requires some physical effort and time. You can speed up the process if you have an electric drill with an appropriate attachment. The emery wheel with the shaft must be secured in the drill chuck, and the drill must be connected. Secure the knife in any available way. Start the drill and start sharpening the edges. The force should be small and the circle should move smoothly across the surface. Do not overheat the edge of the knives. When working, the knife must be wetted periodically. The opposite option would be more convenient: if possible, fix the drill and move the knife along the stone.
Grinder processing
Knife dents can be smoothed out with a hammer on a flat, hard surface.
If the knife has significant damage, it is easier to trim the cutting edge to the required distance and sharpen again. To trim, you need to measure the required size using a caliper or other marking device with the required accuracy.
In this case, you need to remember about the balance of the knife. Trimming should be done on both sides to the same amount. After trimming, you can sharpen the surfaces. It is more convenient to perform the sharpening operation with the tool fixed, moving the knife in a circle.
If there is a speed controller on an angle grinder, it is advisable to select optimal mode operation of the tool so as not to overheat the cutting edges.
To sharpen, you need to change the wheel from cutting to sharpening, remove the metal at the required angle until a sharp edge is formed. Sharpening to required quality This is done manually with a stone or sandpaper.
Sharpening knives on an emery machine
Good sharpening quality can be obtained by using an emery machine with a device for processing at a certain angle. You need to install a coarse-grained stone on the machine, secure the knife in the device, and adjust the sharpening angle. Process the cutting edges until they are completely level. Then change the wheel to a fine-grained one and sharpen it to the required quality. Processing must be performed by smoothly moving the knife, without stopping or sudden movements. If you don’t have a tool, you can sharpen the knife by holding it in your hands. If the sanding machine comes with a felt polishing wheel, the surfaces of the knife can be polished to a mirror finish. This treatment will extend the life of the knives and the entire tool. The metal will become more resistant to corrosion. There will be less grass sticking to the surfaces, creating an imbalance during operation. The load on the bearings and power unit will be lower.
To grind surfaces, you need to install a felt wheel on the machine. Start the machine, apply GOI paste to the rotating surface (lightly press the lump of paste onto the circle). The coverage should be uniform. Then take a knife, press the surface against the felt circle and move it in any direction. When processing, it is important to ensure that the cutting edge and other corners do not fall against the rotation of the wheel. All edges need to be sanded only in the exit position. Oncoming traffic will cause damage to the circle and possible injury. If the color of the surface of the circle changes from green to black, you need to reapply a layer of paste and continue processing. It is necessary to monitor the temperature of the knife. The grinding operation can also overheat the metal edges.
Balancing the knife
After sharpening the edges using any of the described methods, you need to check the balance of the knife. Balance means equal weight of the halves of the product. You need to insert a pin, nail, screwdriver or any rod into the mounting hole round section. Raise to a small height. If the knife remains strictly horizontal, the balance is fine. If you tilt to one side, your balance is broken and you need to restore it. It can be restored quite simply. On the downward side you need to remove a little metal in the same way as sharpening. The metal must be removed little by little, periodically checking the balance.
Conclusion on the topic
For long-term use of knives in spring period After the snow melts, it is necessary to clean the mowed area.
Collect and remove stones, bottles, metal and other objects. If there are stumps from bushes or grass tussocks, they also need to be removed and the surface of the lawn leveled.
Despite the fact that lawn mower blades are made of high-quality steel, they need to be sharpened from time to time. Fortunately, this does not require special skills or equipment, and today we will tell you how to sharpen a lawn mower blade yourself without deteriorating the quality of the metal.
You can cut excess grass from the lawn even if the edges of the mower blade are obviously dull. However, in this case, the shoots will stratify in the longitudinal direction, turning into a fringe. A few days after mowing, the grass will become withered and will hurt for several more weeks. The cut should be even and neat, then it will take literally a few hours and the lawn will always be lush green. This requires that the knife be sharpened almost perfectly.
Left: Grass cut by a dull lawnmower blade. Right: grass cut with a sharp blade
How to remove a blade from a lawn mower
Before you begin to partially disassemble the lawn mower, you need to protect yourself and it. If the device has electric drive It is enough to simply unplug it, but gasoline lawn mowers require preliminary preparation. First of all, you need to remove the cap from the spark plug. Next, you should eliminate fuel leaks, that is, either drain the tank, or place a sealed rubber membrane under the cap and turn off the fuel tap. The lawn mower should only be turned towards the handle unless otherwise specifically stated in the operating instructions. Before turning the mower over, be sure to clamp the crankcase exhaust hose to prevent oil spillage.
Lawn mowers use blades of different configurations. In the simplest case, this is a regular two-blade plate complex shape, however, the knife can also be compound - the upper blade is designed for mulching the mown grass. There are also four-bladed knives, which can be either composite or on a common base.
The knife can be fastened either with one bolt in the center through a shaped washer, or with two bolts seated on a centering hole or pin. In any case, the threads on the bolts are right-handed, so you need to unscrew them counterclockwise. To block the shaft from rotation, place a block resting on the ground under the knife. It is advisable to remember or mark the position of the blade(s) so as not to confuse anything during reassembly. Temporarily install the removed bolts into the free holes.
Cleaning and editing
When the knife is removed, the first thing you need to do is clean it from adhering dirt and hardened herbal juice. The easiest way to do this is to use a metal brush. The knife strip should be clean on all sides: not to a metallic shine, but without the smallest adhering fragments.
Often due to getting into work area hard objects such as stones and wood chips, the blade is very noticeably deformed. Most blades themselves are not straight, but the cutting edge and the strip 10-15 cm from it need to be examined for the presence of local bumps and curvatures. This is done using a short straight ruler.
You can straighten the blade with a regular hammer, the edges of which are slightly rounded. The knife is placed on a flat, massive support (anvil), then with weak blows the metal is pressed correct form. You need to edit the knife starting from the edges of the curved section, gradually moving towards the center. A crooked blade body is a minor problem, but it is very important that the cutting parts are straightened into a straight line. You also need to check the ejection blades, which often become unbent from the impact. If the blades are bent at different angles on different blade arms, this will impair air flow and the grass clippings will not be mulched properly.
Removing descents
If a knife has not been sharpened for a long time, chips are likely to appear on it. You need to get rid of them by bringing the edge of the blade at a uniform angle along the entire length of the cutting section. Please note that there may be several edges on each side, in which case the lawn mower will have several cutting planes.
Lawn mower blades have a one-sided sharpening, the descent of which, as a rule, faces upward. To set the trigger at the desired angle, you should use an electric sharpener with a carborundum stone, or, if you don’t have one, use a fine file. It is very important to remove the metal evenly from both blades. Therefore, keep the same pressure and at least approximately count the number of passes of the sharpener.
Small deviations in the sharpening angle are not critical, however, the smoother the slopes are, the longer the life of the knife will be. When shaping the blade, it always moves towards the grain to avoid the formation of large burrs and flashes. You should not use a grinder for preliminary sharpening - overheating can deteriorate the quality of the metal. However, you can install a petal or disc disk on the angle grinder under sandpaper.
Blade sharpening
The purpose of sharpening itself is to eliminate small chips on the edge and bring the descent into one straight plane. The presence of a “file” on the blade leads to a rapid decrease in sharpness, and with a rounded descent there is too much impact on the cut stems. In addition, a blade with a rounded shape gets dirty much faster.
It is best to sharpen the blade with a flat emery stone of about 400-600 grit; there is little point in using more “delicate” stones. Soak the block in soapy water for 10-15 minutes and wet it periodically while turning. The knife is also sharpened for grain with a small stretch of the whetstone from the center of the sharpened area to the edge.
When sharpening, try to keep the stone in the same position to maintain a constant angle. As with the removal of descents, sharpening should be carried out with the condition that the same amount of metal is removed from opposite blades. This condition, however, does not have to be strictly observed when sharpening four-bladed knives.
Editing edges
Once the blades are sharpened, they need to be straightened. This is done using a piece of moisture-resistant sandpaper with a grain size of about 600-800 grit. The paper must be moistened with water and rolled into a cylinder with a diameter of 100-150 mm.
The purpose of editing is to remove the slightest burrs and flashes, due to which the thinnest edge of the blade can curl. The sandpaper rolled into a cylinder should be lightly pressed against the descent plane and pulled out in a smooth motion away from the grain. It is also recommended to make a smooth shift from the center to the edges.
When removing the triggers and sharpening, all manipulations were carried out on only one side of the blade. During the editing process, the knife is also processed with back side. Here the paper is pressed almost flush against the body of the knife, but with a slight tilt towards the edge. The pressing force on the paper when editing is very small, but you need to make quite a lot of movements in order to eliminate large scratches on the shiny slope that remained after sharpening.
For reference: You can also sharpen a lawn mower blade by riveting, similar to a regular hand scythe. This, however, requires a special device - a headstock, as well as a specific skill. But with this method of sharpening there is no need to balance the knife.
Balance check
Before you put the blade back, you need to make sure that its arms have at least approximately the same weight. Otherwise, vibration will occur during operation, which will not have a positive effect on the durability of the spindle.
Balancing is carried out mainly for double-sided single and compound knives; four-blade knives are not so susceptible to imbalance. To check the knife, you need to clamp a smooth rod in a vice in a horizontal position. The blade is put on it through a hole in the center, after which attempts are made to install it strictly horizontally. If one of the arms weighs significantly more than the other, the knife will inevitably turn to one side.
The shoulder weight equation is carried out by grinding not large quantity metal from the back of one of the knife's arms. It is not necessary to achieve ultra-precise balancing, but the knife should remain in a strictly horizontal position for at least a few seconds. Once the balancing is done, you can put the blade back in place and finally refresh the look of your lawn.
Despite the fact that lawn mower blades are made of high-quality steel, they need to be sharpened from time to time. Fortunately, this does not require special skills or equipment, and today we will tell you how to sharpen a lawn mower blade yourself without deteriorating the quality of the metal.
You can cut excess grass from the lawn even if the edges of the mower blade are obviously dull. However, in this case, the shoots will stratify in the longitudinal direction, turning into a fringe. A few days after mowing, the grass will become withered and will hurt for several more weeks. The cut should be even and neat, then it will take literally a few hours and the lawn will always be lush green. This requires that the knife be sharpened almost perfectly.
Left: Grass cut by a dull lawnmower blade. Right: grass cut with a sharp blade
How to remove a blade from a lawn mower
Before you begin to partially disassemble the lawn mower, you need to protect yourself and it. While an electrically driven device can be simply unplugged, gasoline lawn mowers require preliminary preparation. First of all, you need to remove the cap from the spark plug. Next, you should eliminate fuel leaks, that is, either drain the tank, or place a sealed rubber membrane under the cap and turn off the fuel tap. The lawn mower should only be turned towards the handle unless otherwise specifically stated in the operating instructions. Before turning the mower over, be sure to clamp the crankcase exhaust hose to prevent oil spillage.
Lawn mowers use blades of different configurations. In the simplest case, this is an ordinary two-bladed plate of complex shape, but the knife can also be compound - the upper blade is intended for mulching the mown grass. There are also four-bladed knives, which can be either composite or on a common base.
The knife can be fastened either with one bolt in the center through a shaped washer, or with two bolts seated on a centering hole or pin. In any case, the threads on the bolts are right-handed, so you need to unscrew them counterclockwise. To block the shaft from rotation, place a block resting on the ground under the knife. It is advisable to remember or mark the position of the blade(s) so as not to confuse anything during reassembly. Temporarily install the removed bolts into the free holes.
Cleaning and editing
When the knife is removed, the first thing you need to do is clean it from adhering dirt and hardened herbal juice. The easiest way to do this is to use a metal brush. The knife strip should be clean on all sides: not to a metallic shine, but without the smallest adhering fragments.
Often, due to hard objects such as stones and wood chips entering the working area, the blade becomes noticeably deformed. Most blades themselves are not straight, but the cutting edge and the strip 10-15 cm from it need to be examined for the presence of local bumps and curvatures. This is done using a short straight ruler.
You can straighten the blade with a regular hammer, the edges of which are slightly rounded. The knife is placed on a flat, massive support (anvil), then the metal is given the correct shape with weak blows. You need to edit the knife starting from the edges of the curved section, gradually moving towards the center. A crooked blade body is a minor problem, but it is very important that the cutting parts are straightened into a straight line. You also need to check the ejection blades, which often become unbent from the impact. If the blades are bent at different angles on different blade arms, this will impair air flow and the grass clippings will not be mulched properly.
Removing descents
If a knife has not been sharpened for a long time, chips are likely to appear on it. You need to get rid of them by bringing the edge of the blade at a uniform angle along the entire length of the cutting section. Please note that there may be several edges on each side, in which case the lawn mower will have several cutting planes.
Lawn mower blades have a one-sided sharpening, the descent of which, as a rule, faces upward. To set the trigger at the desired angle, you should use an electric sharpener with a carborundum stone, or, if you don’t have one, use a fine file. It is very important to remove the metal evenly from both blades. Therefore, keep the same pressure and at least approximately count the number of passes of the sharpener.
Small deviations in the sharpening angle are not critical, however, the smoother the slopes are, the longer the life of the knife will be. When shaping the blade, it always moves towards the grain to avoid the formation of large burrs and flashes. You should not use a grinder for preliminary sharpening - overheating can deteriorate the quality of the metal. However, you can install a flap or disc disc on your angle grinder under sandpaper.
Blade sharpening
The purpose of sharpening itself is to eliminate small chips on the edge and bring the descent into one straight plane. The presence of a “file” on the blade leads to a rapid decrease in sharpness, and with a rounded descent there is too much impact on the cut stems. In addition, a blade with a rounded shape gets dirty much faster.
It is best to sharpen the blade with a flat emery stone of about 400-600 grit; there is little point in using more “delicate” stones. Soak the block in soapy water for 10-15 minutes and wet it periodically while turning. The knife is also sharpened for grain with a small stretch of the whetstone from the center of the sharpened area to the edge.
When sharpening, try to keep the stone in the same position to maintain a constant angle. As with the removal of descents, sharpening should be carried out with the condition that the same amount of metal is removed from opposite blades. This condition, however, does not have to be strictly observed when sharpening four-bladed knives.
Editing edges
Once the blades are sharpened, they need to be straightened. This is done using a piece of moisture-resistant sandpaper with a grain size of about 600-800 grit. The paper must be moistened with water and rolled into a cylinder with a diameter of 100-150 mm.
The purpose of editing is to remove the slightest burrs and flashes, due to which the thinnest edge of the blade can curl. The sandpaper rolled into a cylinder should be lightly pressed against the descent plane and pulled out in a smooth motion away from the grain. It is also recommended to make a smooth shift from the center to the edges.
When removing the triggers and sharpening, all manipulations were carried out on only one side of the blade. During the editing process, the knife is also processed from the back side. Here the paper is pressed almost flush against the body of the knife, but with a slight tilt towards the edge. The pressing force on the paper when editing is very small, but you need to make quite a lot of movements in order to eliminate large scratches on the shiny slope that remained after sharpening.
For reference: You can also sharpen a lawn mower blade by riveting, similar to a regular hand scythe. This, however, requires a special device - a headstock, as well as a specific skill. But with this method of sharpening there is no need to balance the knife.
Balance check
Before you put the blade back, you need to make sure that its arms have at least approximately the same weight. Otherwise, vibration will occur during operation, which will not have a positive effect on the durability of the spindle.
Balancing is carried out mainly for double-sided single and compound knives; four-blade knives are not so susceptible to imbalance. To check the knife, you need to clamp a smooth rod in a vice in a horizontal position. The blade is put on it through a hole in the center, after which attempts are made to install it strictly horizontally. If one of the arms weighs significantly more than the other, the knife will inevitably turn to one side.
Equating the weight of the arms is done by grinding a small amount of metal off the back of one of the arms of the knife. It is not necessary to achieve ultra-precise balancing, but the knife should remain in a strictly horizontal position for at least a few seconds. Once the balancing is done, you can put the blade back in place and finally refresh the look of your lawn.
When working with a lawn mower, this is, in most cases, a sign that the tool blade has become dull and requires sharpening or replacing this part. At first glance, it may seem that it is easier to change a dull tool - buy a lawn mower knife. But this is associated with costs, and finding a knife of a suitable configuration may be quite difficult. This option is only justified in case of significant damage. cutting edges or damage to the knife when it collides with a hard obstacle, for example a stone.
In most cases, it is quite easy to restore the functionality of the knife - sharpen the lawn mower blade with your own hands.
Anyone can sharpen a lawn mower blade or replace it on their own; basic skills in working with hand tools are enough for this.
Please note that the sharpening technology depends on the type of blades installed on the lawn mower. There are two types of equipment used for lawn work: rotary blade lawn mowers and drum lawn mowers. Let's describe the process knife sharpening for each type of knives separately.
Knife sharpening rotary lawn mower.
Rotary devices include:
Gasoline lawn mowers;
Electric lawn mowers - corded and battery-powered.
They are equipped mainly with two-bladed knives, less often a knife with four blades. The sharpening method is the same for all types and does not have any differences.
To complete the work you need:
Work gloves;
A spanner or socket wrench of the appropriate size;
A set of files, an abrasive stone, or an electric sharpening tool.
Before you start sharpening the mower blade, you need to perform several preliminary operations:
Prepare the lawn mower for removing the blade. Owners of gasoline lawn mower models need to pay particular attention to this stage. It may be necessary to drain fuel and oil;
Sharpening lawn mower blade with your own hands
Working edge knife was damaged by stones. Because We don’t have a sharpening machine with guides, part…
How sharpen lawnmower blade.
How sharpen lawn mower blade To ensure that the mower cuts the grass evenly and does not crush the blade, you should at least once...
Turn the lawnmower over to access cutting tool;
Secure the knife with wooden block;
Using necessary tool, usually a socket or socket wrench, unscrew the knife fastening elements;
Remove the knife itself.
After cleaning the knife from adhering grass and dirt, you can proceed directly to sharpening.
For sharpening lawn mower blade you will need a stable base - a table or workbench, on the surface of which you can conveniently position and secure the knife for final sharpening. The best option– if you have the opportunity to secure the knife in a vice.
When performing work, keep in mind that the working part of the knife is hardened; you should try to keep the impact on the blade to a minimum and maintain the sharpening angle of the lawn mower knife.
If the working parts of the knife are not damaged - burrs, notches, then you can limit yourself to straightening the blade. For this purpose, you can use an abrasive stone or a diamond-coated file. There is no need to remove a large amount of metal, and you can get by with a “thin” tool.
If the knife blades are damaged, they must be removed with a coarse file before sharpening. emery wheel or using an electric tool with an abrasive attachment.
If you do the work using a file or an abrasive stone, then sharpening is done from the center of the knife to the edge. The movement of the instrument is “pull forward”. After completing the work, you need to check whether the balancing of the lawn mower blade has changed.
The sharpened blade can be installed on the lawn mower and you can start mowing the lawn.
Knife sharpening spindle lawn mower.
Drum (spindle) lawn mowers are equipped with a blade block - a formed drum in which several curved blades and a fixed straight blade are installed. It may seem that sharpening such a knife is very difficult, but it is not. You don't even have to remove the spindle.
To sharpen the spindle knife, you will need abrasive sandpaper, preferably waterproof.
From a sheet of paper, you need to cut a strip wider than the width of the fixed blade by 1-2 mm and stick it on the fixed blade of the lawn mower using double sided tape, side with applied abrasive up.
Then activate the blade drive. Roll a manual drum lawn mower on a flat, hard surface several times; if you have an electric drum mower, connect it to the mains, turn it on and let it run for a short time, 1 minute is enough.
Before using your lawn mower, be sure to remove any sandpaper from the bed blade.
As you can see, sharpening the blade of any lawn mower is not so difficult and every owner of this type of garden equipment can do this job.
How to Sharpen a Lawn Mower Blade
Sharpening lawn mower blades, don't know how sharpen lawnmower blade? Sharpening Center > Sharpening lawn mower blades Knife sharpening lawn mowers A lawn mower, like any other cutting
Sharpening lawn mower blades, don't know how sharpen lawnmower blade?
Sharpening Center > Knife sharpening lawnmowers
Sharpening lawn mower blades
A lawn mower, like any other cutting equipment, is armed with knives that cut plants. Adjusting the carburetor of a Husqvarna lawn mower. When used, they tend to become dull and then the operation of the lawn mower becomes labor-intensive and painful for the operator working with this equipment. Sharpening lawn mower blades even cheaper than buying new knives for them.
The most common lawn mowers are rotary ones, they are the best-selling ones. But they all have an identical design; two sharp knives are placed in the body (or deck). Choosing a Bosch Rotak lawn mower. They spin at high speed, creating an air flow that lifts the grass, and the knives moderately trim it. The best professional petrol self-propelled lawn mowers. The same air flow sends the cut grass into a specially integrated bag (grass catcher). To make the air flow stronger, the knives are made in the form of blades; they are moved at high speed by an electronic or internal combustion engine.
The cost of sharpening lawn mower blades is 250 rubles.
The electronic motor is powered by electricity and has a limited operating radius depending on the length of the wire. Allows the operator to work only in dry weather to avoid electrocution. The device of an electronic garden lawn mower. It is absolutely necessary to ensure that the cable is not accidentally cut, because the knives are very sharp and spin at high speed.
Do-it-yourself lawn mower blade sharpening
Working edge knife was damaged by stones. Operation of a gasoline lawn mower mtd. Because We don’t have a sharpening machine with guides, part.
Sharpening a lawn mower blade from the Lenfilm film studio
We tried our best. If you are not very satisfied, then take a look at our website. There we examined the “flights” in detail.
Lawn mowers with a gasoline engine are more mobile. The lawn mower motor hums but does not turn. Their operating radius is not limited and electrocution will not occur. Choosing a manual gasoline lawn mower. The main thing here is to maintain the correct angle of inclination of the lawn mower so that the fuel gets into the engine moderately, this angle is less than 30 degrees. Drain steep slopes should carefully evaluate the surface of the mown hill in order to greatly protect the motor from damage.
Correct knife sharpening lawn mowers
The knife has a sickle shape; it chops, rather than cuts, the grass. Disassembling a Bosch Rotak 1000 lawn mower. To form a beautiful lawn, it is important that the grass is cut evenly, but not pulled out of the ground, so the knife must be perfectly sharpened. It is best to grind it on a sharpening stand, but you can also use an ordinary drill with a grinding attachment for grinding. To do this, be sure to turn off the engine and remove the knife, then loosen the bolt at the fastening point and separate the knife. Cutting height lawn mowers wow. If the knife has screwed blades, then you just need to turn the blades. Next, assess the condition of the dull blades; they can be bent from being hit by stones; in this case, they are straightened with a hammer. The knife, made from a single piece of metal, only requires grinding the corners.
It is necessary to take into account that the metal must be removed in a similar layer on both sides, otherwise the knife may become unbalanced and this may lead to failure of the lawn mower. Sharpening lawn mower blades asks for strict adherence and control of the balance of both knife blades. Electronic lawn mowers are the best and most reliable. The best way to use the time axis is to place a knife on it, then you will see whether the knife is sitting level and you will be able to control the uniformity of sharpening. If one side is heavier, it should be sharpened and the balance brought into order.
Only all methods of sharpening lawn mower blades have one principle - this is the removal of a layer of metal from cutting surface. You can do this either manually or using sharpening machines, grinders, grinding machines.
It is best, of course, to turn to specialists in sharpening knives. They will sharpen and adjust the balance of knives correctly and well. After all, with a dull knife it is impossible to cut the grass moderately; its edges become frayed and the lawn looks unhealthy and unkempt. The sharper the knives are sharpened, the less the lawn grass gets sick and the better the lawn looks. Depends on it appearance your clearing and, of course, your mood.
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