Installing a wall-hung toilet: we analyze the nuances of installation technology. How to install a wall-hung toilet - step-by-step instructions Installing a wall-hung toilet

Not long ago, interesting alternatives to simple floor-standing toilets appeared on the market - wall-hung installations. Today many consumers choose them, noting interesting design such products. But not all users know how to properly install such plumbing items. The article will discuss how to install simple and suspended installations.

What is it?

The installation is a special system, which is a well-thought-out design that allows you to secure the toilet and other plumbing fixtures as securely and firmly as possible. In addition, such elements are necessary to hide plumbing connections.

Peculiarities

According to consumers and experts, modern hanging and floor installations are very convenient. Using such an interesting system, you can place the toilet so that its tank is securely hidden behind the wall. At the same time, it is additionally protected by heat-insulating material, which ensures sound insulation of the plumbing during its use.

When installing the installation, only the toilet bowl itself is always noticeable. Thanks to this feature, the room in the bathroom or toilet will seem much more spacious, even if in fact its area is modest.

Professionals say that the installation of such systems can be done with your own hands. To do this, you just need to stock up on everything necessary tools and strictly follow the step-by-step instructions. Of course, if you are not very confident in your own abilities or are afraid to take on such work, then it is better for you to call experienced craftsmen,

If you decide to install floor or hanging installation, then you should familiarize yourself with the advantages and disadvantages characteristic of such systems. First, let's look at their advantages.

First of all, it should be noted the compact size of such products. Thanks to this characteristic, suspended or floor-mounted installations can be installed even in very small rooms, where every centimeter counts.
Such systems are characterized by quiet operation, since the toilet cisterns are hidden behind the walls.
Many housewives note that it is much easier to clean rooms with such structures - there are fewer hard-to-reach areas.
If you decide to install a suspended structure, then you will have the opportunity to lay out a mosaic or a beautiful tile pattern on the floor - nothing will interfere with such a composition, violating the integrity of the pattern.

Right installed installations allow you to save water. This is explained by the fact that in such designs there are two buttons. One of them is responsible for big flow water, and the second - for a small one.
These types of plumbing fixtures are not susceptible to breakdowns. If they do happen, they can be easily eliminated.
It is quite acceptable to install installations in the conditions of the Khrushchev era.
Suspended and floor installations are reliable and durable structures. They can easily withstand impressive loads (up to 400 kg). Of course, this advantage occurs if the toilet was installed correctly and the bowl itself is made of high-quality material.
Hanging and floor installations look very original. Their design attracts attention and makes the interior of a bathroom or toilet more stylish and modern.

Installations also have their weaknesses; let’s look at them in more detail.

Such systems are not cheap. It should also be taken into account that, coupled with additional expenses for installation work, such a design can cost a tidy sum.
Such structures always contain hidden elements that become inaccessible for repair and maintenance.
Replacing classic toilets is a fairly simple job, but if you decide to replace the installation, you will most likely have to renovate the entire room.

Species

There are several types of suspended and floor installations. Let's get to know them better.

Block

Block installations have support posts and fasteners. Such structures can be used when installing both floor and suspended products. Block systems are reliable, strong and durable. Their installation is considered quite simple.

However, block installations have one serious drawback - they require the presence of a solid wall in the room.

Framework

The frame (or frame) system is no less reliable, strong and durable. These structures can easily withstand loads of up to 400 kg.

Frame options can be mounted on four points on the wall or two points on the floor and two on the ceiling. Sometimes such structures are installed directly on the floor.

Frame structures do not require a permanent wall, like block options. Such systems can be mounted not only on concrete and brick, but even on gypsum plasterboard partitions.

These structures are based on a durable steel frame. You can install not only a toilet on it, but also other additional elements. For example, this could be a sink or a bidet. The frame system can be installed not only near a straight wall, but also in a corner.

Corner

If you want to choose an original and fashionable design, far from the usual standards, then you should pay attention to corner installations. However, it should be taken into account that such a design can only be installed if there are right angles of 90 degrees in the room.

Installation of corner products is more complex. In addition, such installations are more expensive than other options.

Types of toilets

Contrary to popular belief, toilets can be different. They differ in the shape of the bowl, flushing method, release into the sewer system and material of manufacture.

By type of bowl

Toilets are equipped with bowls of different shapes.

One of the most popular are funnel-shaped models. They have a number of advantages for which many buyers choose them. The main thing is that funnel-shaped products are hygienic, since in this design the funnel is located in the central part of the bowl. Funnel-shaped models do not have any serious disadvantages, but when using them, there is a high probability of a splash forming.

The second most popular are plate-shaped toilet bowls. They are simple flat platforms. Such models can only be cleaned under the influence of a water jet. Such models are considered outdated, but differ in that they eliminate splashing. Unfortunately, plate bowls cannot be called highly hygienic, so lately they are not that popular.
And there are also common visor bowls. Such products have a special protrusion that prevents the formation of a splash, as well as a slope with which the walls of the toilet bowl are cleaned.

By type of flush

Toilets also vary in how they flush. This parameter depends on the direction of water flow. Modern manufacturers They produce toilets with direct and circular flush.

Direct flushing occurs using a water stream along one side of the bowl. Such models are durable and reliable, but they do not guarantee sufficient cleaning of the entire surface of the toilet. In addition, these products are quite noisy and create a lot of splashes. But models with such a flush are inexpensive.

As for the circular flush, in it the water jets are directed at different angles and move in different directions. Thanks to this system, up to 95% of the bowl surface is processed and cleaned. In addition, circular flush toilets are not noisy.
Less common are toilets with non-standard flush systems, which provide for pre-filling the bowl with water and then quickly flushing it. With this method, the flush fills the entire cavity of the toilet. The disadvantages of such products include excessive water consumption during operation. This figure can exceed 8 liters.

Upon release into the sewer system

Modern types of toilets also differ in the way they are discharged into the sewer system.

The oblique method was popular in the construction of riser structures in multi-apartment buildings in the 70-80s of the last century.
Horizontal descent is the most common nowadays. Most current buildings are designed to use toilets with such a system.
There is also a vertical descent. Today such systems are used on both American continents.

According to the material of manufacture

Floor-mounted and wall-mounted toilets are made from different raw materials. Each model has its own characteristic features And positive qualities. Let's take a closer look at what materials modern toilets are made from.

Earthenware

Toilets made of materials such as earthenware cannot boast of high strength. They are also characterized by slight porosity, so cleaning such products is not an easy task. Currently, such raw materials are not used so often, since as a result they produce very fragile objects that are easily susceptible to chips, cracks and other mechanical damage.

Of course, in modern production special technologies are used, thanks to which earthenware plumbing becomes more reliable, but earthenware is much inferior to other materials from which toilet bowls of various modifications are made.

Porcelain

Porcelain toilets are stronger and more durable. They are easy to clean. Such models can often be found in public institutions, as they can easily withstand impressive loads without breaking down.

As for the disadvantages of porcelain toilets, they include the high cost of such products. To reduce costs, more affordable ceramics have become widespread.

Steel and cast iron

Metal plumbing is a classic. Metal toilets are most often found in public places. Such products are distinguished by durability, strength and wear resistance. They are almost impossible to damage or scratch. Steel and cast iron structures can easily withstand heavy loads.

The disadvantages of such products include the relatively high cost. Cast iron toilets are considered the least popular, as they have an impressive weight and poor durability of the enamel coating.

Stone and glass

Glass and stone toilets (natural or artificial) are classified as products from the “modern” category. Such plumbing items are expensive, but they are elegant and attractive. appearance.

Glass models cannot boast of excellent strength characteristics. However, there are many analogues of glass and stone, from which no less beautiful toilets, which are more reliable but inexpensive.

Plastic

Thanks to modern technologies On sale you can find toilets made of materials such as reinforced acrylic. Many consumers mistakenly believe that such products are not durable. Actually this is not true. Acrylic models are different for a long time services. In addition, such products are quite practical - they have almost no porous surfaces, so they are easy to clean from any contaminants.

The disadvantage of such plumbing is its susceptibility to deformation, which can be caused mechanical influences or too high temperatures.

Flush buttons

Special buttons are produced for modern installations. As a rule, they are quite large in size, since it is through them that you can get to the hidden tank.

If necessary, the button can be easily removed from the special latches using a simple thin screwdriver. After that it unscrews decorative panel that surrounds the button. Other similar structures are dismantled in a similar way.

If you have a pneumatic stop drain button installed, then the causes of problems with such structures may be:

failure in the power system;
malfunction in the shut-off valve opening system.

To repair a pneumatic button, you need to have special knowledge. If you have not worked with such elements before, then you should call a specialist.

There are also touch buttons. Such details look interesting and are convenient to use. It is worth considering that the lion's share of breakdowns of touch buttons occurs due to violations of the integrity of the power cable. Only an experienced person should repair such mechanisms.

Accommodation options

Regardless of what kind of installation you have chosen, you must begin installation work with a competent choice of location for the toilet. In city apartments with a standard layout, you can allocate a truly suitable space - a niche in which there are risers for water supply and sewerage.

To install the installation, you will need to slightly alter the niche by placing risers in the corners. If they are made of metal, it is recommended to replace them with plastic ones.

Before proceeding with installation work, it is necessary to apply the correct markings. To do this, you need to know the exact dimensions of the installation.

Dimensions

Currently, toilets and installations are sold in stores various sizes. However, the standard dimensions of floor-standing models are 520x340 cm. The seat height in such options is 400 mm. There are toilet models that have an increased length of 7-10 cm (such models are especially popular in America).

Hanging specimens have other parameters:

small models have a length of no more than 54 cm (perfect for compact spaces);
medium ones are available with a length from 54 to 60 cm (considered the optimal product, most convenient to use);
large models with an increased length of up to 70 cm (ideal for elderly and obese users with disabilities).

What's included?

The set of floor and suspended installations includes the following components:

frame;
toilet bowl;
seat with cover;
tank;

exhaust pipe;
sound insulation;
flush buttons;
fasteners.

Installation

Many owners believe that installing the installation is very difficult, and they cannot cope with such work themselves. Actually this is not true. Let's take a step-by-step look at how to properly install such a system with your own hands.

Tools

To install a floor or hanging installation yourself, you will need the following tools:

laser or bubble level (choose a tool that will be more convenient for you to work with);
a special construction pencil or marker for marking;

perforator;
concrete drill;
roulette;
open-end wrenches (overhead).

Preparatory work

Installations require the presence of a separate niche in the room in which the frame will be located. It is worth considering that the walls in the room must be quite reliable and strong.

The niche in the room should have the following parameters:

1000 mm in height;
600 mm wide;
150-200 mm deep.

There are times when depth requirements are quite difficult to meet. Then the niche needs to be made as deep as possible. In this case, its deficiency should be sheathed (covered) with plasterboard and covered with finishing material.

Installation

After preparing the niche, you can proceed to installation of the installation.

First you need to attach the metal frames to the wall. As a rule, these structures initially contain holes with which the frames are attached to dowels.
There should be two attachment points - to the wall and to the floor.
Next, it is necessary to connect sewer and water pipes to the installation site.

Be sure to check that the frame is level. There should be no distortions or significant deviations from the level anywhere.
Horizontal adjustment should be made using wall mounts.
On at this stage The height level of the wall-hung toilet is also set. First of all this parameter will depend on the growth of household members. Most often, the height of the toilet in this case is 0.4 m. The height of the bowl can be adjusted at your discretion in the future.

Such structures should be installed with all responsibility. All parts of the box must be secured as evenly, securely and firmly as possible. Otherwise, the system may fail.

Connecting sewerage and water supply

After fixing the toilet, you need to supply water to the tank. For this you can use a flexible or rigid system. Most specialists use a rigid connection because it is more reliable, durable and durable. Of course, it is permissible to install flexible hoses, but if they become damaged or deformed, they will not be easily accessible or quickly removed. During installation of the liner, the tank valve, as well as the drain, must be closed.

After connecting all the necessary elements, you need to check the reliability and quality of the fastenings. To do this, turn on the water in the tap and fill the tank. If you notice a leak, it must be fixed. In this case, water may remain in the tank.

Next you need to connect the toilet to the sewer. To do this, the drain hole of the plumbing fixture must be inserted into the outlet sewer pipe using suitable corrugation. There are also models that can be assembled without using it.

After completing all work, you should make sure that the installed system is sufficiently tight. To do this, you need to temporarily screw the bowl to the frame. After this, it will need to be removed again. This part can only be installed after completing all installation work.

Please note that the sewer pipe wiring must be connected before installing the installation itself. Its diameter should be 100 mm (norm). It must be laid with a special slope.

Finishing

After installing all components, it is necessary to cover the structure with a plasterboard sheet. Functional elements must be covered with similar sheets/panels. For the bathroom you should buy only moisture-resistant plasterboard, which is more durable and wear-resistant than simple material.

Sheathing can be done in two ways:

along the entire floor plane;
only along the plane where the installation is located.

The second finishing method involves the formation of a small shelf located directly above the bowl. It can be used to place items needed by the owners. After this, the closed barrier needs to be finished with tiles or PVC panels - it all depends on how the rest of the partitions in the room are decorated.

As you can see, self-installation wall-mounted or floor-mounted installations can be done with your own hands. It is worth listening to some advice and recommendations from experts to make the design more reliable and of higher quality.

When installing the installation, the tank is always “hidden” in the wall. However, one way or another, you will need access to it. To do this, it is necessary to install an inspection hatch. It is better to place it just below the installation button.
The installation location of the button must be planned, and the layout of the tiles on the walls should be taken into account. It is recommended to mount this part between adjacent tiles or in the central part of one of them.

The thickness of the structure covering the installation should be no more than 70 cm.
Leave space between plumbing fasteners. It should be 180-230 mm.
To save water, it is recommended to choose appropriate buttons equipped with two types of drainage.
If the floor-mounted toilet has leaked, then you need to make sure high-quality sealing plumbers. All joints and connections with corrugation should be treated with sealant again.
If the toilet is installed unstable, you should tighten the bolts. However, this should be done more carefully so as not to break the thread.
Most often, polypropylene pipes are used for installation. In addition, all metal risers must be replaced with plastic ones.
Before starting installation work, it is worth drawing up detailed drawings and a diagram of the future structure. This is especially important if you decide to install a complex corner installation.

If the bathroom is located in the central part of the living space (far from major ceilings), then only a frame structure should be installed in it.
Before installing the installation, it is advisable to change the niche and remove the risers in the corner.
Please note that installation of suspended plumbing should begin only 10-14 days after fixing the frame.
When adjusting the height of a wall-hung toilet, you must rely on the distance from the center of the horizontal sewer outlet to the level of the finished floor. The slope of the pipes must also be taken into account.
Do not proceed with installation of the installation until you have carefully read the instructions that come with it.

Before installing the toilet, do not forget to “out” the pipes cold water.
Remember that any problems in the inside of the barrel are quite easy to identify: carefully examine all the components. All moving elements must “move” without problems, connections must be as tight and reliable as possible, and there must be no distortions in the structure.
The frame can only be installed after the screed and waterproofing of the floor have been completed.
In a wooden house, it is recommended to install lower and wider installations. Thus, the load on the wall will be significantly reduced. Otherwise, it is better to attach the structure to the floor.

Installing a simple toilet is not difficult. But if the toilet is wall-mounted, then the bathroom must be equipped with an additional connecting link - an installation. From this article you will learn how to carry outDIY toilet installation installation, as well as its connection to the sewer system.

While the toilets different brands may differ primarily in bowl shape or surface, the installation may cause many toilet problems in the next 20 years. Indeed, the tank, frame and other elements will be hidden, making access to them difficult.

The modern plumbing market can offer two types of installations.

Important! If the bathroom is located in the center of the living space, far from the main walls, then only a frame installation can be installed in it.

Regarding manufacturers, Vega, Grohe and Geberit are considered the most reliable today. But here everything depends mainly on personal wishes. It is important that the model belongs famous brand, which has already proven itself. The installation will be more expensive, but in terms of operation it will quickly pay for itself.

What will be required at work?

To install the installation, you need to acquire the following tools:

Correctly selected tools are already half the success.

Installation should begin with choosing a suitable location. If the layout is standard, then optimal place is a niche with risers located in it. The niche itself will have to be altered somewhat, “spreading” the risers to the sides.

Important! Metal risers must be replaced with plastic ones.

Wall-hung toilet with block design

Step one. It all starts with the markup. If we are talking about a small apartment, then the toilet is installed in accordance with the axis of the room, since the area here is small. If the apartment is large enough, then the toilet is tied to the drain axis. This axis must be drawn with a marker.

Step two. The next step is to measure the height. Almost always it depends only on design features frames. Points for installing dowels are marked.

Important! The dimensions for this should be taken only from the instructions supplied with the product, because they are different for different manufacturers.

It is also important to maintain the correct distance of the dowels from the center of the installation. For example, if its width is 60 cm, then 30 cm is retreated on both sides of the axis. Holes are made with a hammer drill, and dowels are hammered into them.

Step three. The drain tank is screwed on and the drain hole is twisted (both procedures are described in more detail in the instructions). The presence of all necessary gaskets is checked, after which the tank is connected to the water supply.

Step four. The pins that come with the plumbing fixtures are screwed into the pre-made holes. The distance to which they protrude depends solely on the size of the toilet. It is typical that the pins will be open until the installation is completed - only then is the bowl installed.

The last stage is fixing the drain hose with clamps (if provided for by the design).

Step one. First, the frame is assembled, after which the drain tank is attached to it. The position of the frame is adjusted using screws and brackets located on top. The frames are always sold separately - they are universal, so they are suitable for any toilet.

Upon completion of assembly, a structure with a height of 1.3-1.4 m comes out, while the width depends on the specific model. Maximum load that such frames can withstand reaches 450-490 kg.

Step two. When installing a drain tank, you must adhere to the following rules:

the drain button should be a meter from the floor;
toilet - approximately 40-45 cm;
sewer outlet - 22-25 cm;
the distance between the fasteners should be equal to the distance between the toilet lugs.

Typically the frame is attached in four places. There remains a small gap between it and the surface - at least 2 cm.

Step three. The assembled installation is installed, and clearly horizontally. To do this, use a plumb line to check the slope of the wall and, if found, a horizontal line is drawn at the point where the plumb line touches the floor. Then a second one is drawn from the line at the distance required for installation of the installation.

The frame is applied to the wall, fastening points are marked. Holes are made. The frame is screwed to the floor, its height is adjusted with screws, and its horizontalness is adjusted with a building level.

Step four. A water pipe is connected to the drain tank. This can be done from the side or from above, but in almost all modern models The connection location can be changed.

Important! It is not advisable to use a flexible hose when connecting a flush tank, since it will last much less than the toilet itself, and replacing it under a false wall, if necessary, will be quite difficult.

Therefore, plastic pipes are used for connection. The tank itself is insulated with material that prevents moisture condensation. Everything that is required for installation is included in the kit, except that the panel with the drain button must be purchased separately.

Step five. The toilet outlet is connected to the riser. It is often impossible to insert the outlet directly, so corrugation is used. After this, all connections are checked for leaks.

Step six. Before assembling the plasterboard box, you need to do the following:

close all openings with plugs to prevent debris from entering;
Screw the pins into the frame to secure the toilet.

All technological holes are cut out in the drywall, after which it is fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws. Drywall is finished with tiles.

Step seven. You can begin installing the toilet no earlier than 10 days after laying the tiles. The outlet is adjusted to the sewer hole, and the place where the tiles come into contact with the toilet is covered with silicone sealant. The toilet is placed on the shifters, the nuts are tightened.

After this, it is advisable to carry out a test drain of water in order to check the tightness.

Step one. The position of the knee is fixed using metal fasteners. The toilet outlet is treated with technical ointment, after which the device is placed at the installation site. Its outline is outlined with a marker, all mounting holes are indicated. Then the toilet is removed, and according to the markings made, the mounting angles included in the kit are installed. The toilet is put back, the outlet is pressed into the drain pipe.

Step two. The drain tank is installed according to the instructions. A connecting cuff is fixed at the toilet outlet, the bolts are tightened, and their caps are closed with special caps.

Step three. The drain button is inserted into the made technological hole.

Step four. Finished design checked for leaks.

Video - Installation for Geberit DuoFresh toilet - installation

If a floor-standing toilet is leaking, check the tightness of the joints treated with sealant. Connections with corrugation are reprocessed.
To simplify future repair work, a technological hole must be provided under the drain button.
Toilet instability can be corrected by tightening the bolts. This must be done carefully so as not to strip the thread.
The drain button must be placed between the tiles.
The cause of a leaking drain tank is most likely due to improper installation of the sealing gasket. To replace it, turn off the water and unscrew all fasteners. The gaskets are corrected, everything is screwed back on.
The drain should be at an angle of 45°C, otherwise the water will stagnate in the toilet.
When purchasing an installation, it is better to give preference to a model equipped with a water saving system. Often such a system provides for the presence of two drain buttons– for complete or partial drainage.

Video - Installation and installation of a wall-hung toilet on a GEBERIT installation

Conclusion

Here, in fact, are all the nuances of installation. The main thing is to fulfill all the requirements, and at the end of each stage, check the tightness of the connections. All detected defects should be eliminated immediately, since it will be difficult to do this later, when the structure is hidden with drywall.

Video – Installation of the GROHE installation

Before you begin installing the toilet installation yourself, you need to make preliminary markings on the wall and floor.

First, determine the vertical, which must coincide with the axis of the frame. There are three options:

Separate bathroom without washbasin and bidet. In this case, the vertical runs through the center of the wall on or near which the installation is installed.
Bathroom with toilet and bidet. Both installations are lined up. And the vertical axes for each frame should be positioned so that they fall in the center of the selected location, taking into account the ergonomics of the bathroom. Under standard conditions, both axes should “divide” the wall into three equal parts.
Combined bathroom. The vertical line on the wall should pass through the geometric center of the selected location.

The next step is to mark the vertical center of the drain key. For a block system, this is the only reference point, and it is usually located at a height of 1 m above the finished floor level. Therefore, you need to take into account the thickness:

leveling screed;
heated floors with insulation and their own screed (if provided);
finishing layer (tile adhesive plus tiles).

For a frame installation of standard height, this size (1 m) is specified in the diagram, but if it is short, then they are guided by the installation height of a particular model.

Further marking is carried out as follows:

A horizontal line is struck level in the center of the key or the top of the frame and the installation width is marked on it.
From these points, vertical lines are drawn down. They continue on the floor parallel to each other and perpendicular to the plane of the wall.
Mark on each line a distance greater than the installation depth indicated in the passport. Actual size must also take into account the gap from the tank to the wall of 1.5 cm, the method of laying the sewer pipe and its maximum outer diameter at the joints. So, with an installation depth of 12 cm, the minimum distance from the wall to the front surface of the installation is 13.5 cm - if the pipe “goes” under the ceiling, 15.5 cm - if the sewer pipe runs along the wall. And this does not take into account irregularities.
Connect the marks - this will be the line along which the places where the legs are attached to the floor are located.
Check the perpendicularity of this line relative to the side wall. If necessary, adjust it, making sure that the shortest distance to the wall is no less than the actual depth.

Marking on the wall for a block installation is much simpler and consists only of marking the attachment points to the wall. In accordance with the diagram and focusing on the recommended height of the flush button, a parallel line is struck from the vertical axis on each side at a distance equal to half the installation width. And on these lines the points of attachment of the frame to the main wall are marked.

Materials and tools

Even when purchasing the installation, you need to check the completeness. In addition to the frame itself, the tank, the inlet valve and the flush elbow must be:

drain elbow;
key;
fastenings and fastening elements;
plugs for flush and drain pipes (to prevent debris from getting in during operation);
gasket for mounting a wall-mounted toilet (sound insulation).

In the case when you are installing plumbing fixtures yourself for the first time, it would be good to find out if the seller has spare parts for installation (if something goes wrong). All leading manufacturers produce spare parts and repair kits for installations - pipes, elbows, inlet and flush valves, membranes, seals and transitions. In addition, there should be an assortment various types fasteners and fasteners, which can be purchased separately.

You also need to purchase a set of pipes to connect the wall-hung toilet to the installation, silicone sealant for sewer pipe joints and fum tape for installation shut-off valve on a water pipe.

To install a wall-hung toilet with installation, you will need the following tools:

level, tape measure, ruler, construction corner, pencil or marker;
hammer drill and concrete drills;
hammer;
set wrenches(as well as an adjustable or gas wrench);
screwdrivers;
pliers.

If you immediately install a frame from a profile for subsequent sheathing with plasterboard, then you also need a tool for this work:

metal scissors;
drill;
knife or hacksaw;
screwdriver

Features of installation and toilets installation

As mentioned above, there are three options for “installation and toilet” combinations.

Wall-hung toilet with block design

Easiest for self-installation An option for mounting the system is to install the frame on the surface of the main wall and lay a quarter-brick partition below the structure to provide a reliable support for the wall-mounted toilet. The butt size of a single brick is 12.5 cm plus 1 cm of vertical joint made of masonry mortar, and the resulting 13.5 cm is just right for most models whose installation depth lies within these limits.

Another option is to purchase a block installation, which includes two special floor supports to “support” the wall-mounted toilet bowl. These supports are placed on the sanitary ware fastening pins, and they do not allow the bowl to “fall” back. Such models include Geberit Kombifix (110.340.00.5). If such accessories are not included in the kit, they can be purchased separately, for example Geberit Kombifix stops (457.888.26.1) or Alcaplast mounting kit (M90).

Do-it-yourself installation of a block installation proceeds according to the following algorithm:

At the marked fastening points on the wall, holes are made with a puncher, to which the frame is screwed with dowels.
Drive in dowels or anchors and screw the frame to them.
Insert the tank into the frame, connect it to the water pipe (the water supply tube may be included in the delivery package) and to the flush elbow.
Screw in the mounting studs to secure the bowl.
Connect the drain elbow to the sewer through an adapter pipe (from the kit or purchased additionally).

Wall-hung toilet with frame installation

This is the most common version of the hidden installation design - it is suitable for installation near any wall or partition, regardless of its load-bearing capacity.

Installation of the toilet installation takes place in the following sequence:

Holes for dowels are drilled at the marked attachment points to the floor and wall.
A cistern with a flush mechanism and a flush elbow is attached to the frame.
Install the frame and attach the legs to the subfloor.
It is adjusted in height and horizontal level using retractable support elements. The structure is secured with bolts in the required position.
Using metal fasteners, the structure is fixed to the wall. Typically these are studs with an adjusting head on the frame side and mounting angles or plates on the wall side.
Screw in the pins and lock. Install the mounting angles in place and screw them to the wall.
Adjust the position of the frame vertically by tightening or unscrewing the studs using a head (adjustment depth up to 45 mm). The position of the structure is secured with a lock nut.
Attach the cuff for the drain elbow to the frame. The elbow is installed, connected to the sewer pipe through an adapter, and fixed to the frame with a clamp.
Connect the tank inlet valve to the water pipe using the supplied or purchased adapter.
Attach the studs for the hanging bowl.
A button and a toilet are temporarily installed. They open the water, test the system for operability, check the tightness of connections and connections.
If no problems are found, the button and toilet are removed. Close the holes of both elbows with plugs and begin covering the installation.

Note. One of the features of installing a frame installation is the ability to install it on a finished floor surface. In this case, marking and installation are carried out without adjustments for the thickness of the finishing coating layers.

Floor-standing toilet with block installation

One of the low-budget options for using a block installation system is a concealed-mounted cistern without a frame with a front flush button. Moreover, this option can be used for walls made of any materials. The load from a 6-liter tank can be withstood by a half-brick wall or a frame made of a metal profile or wooden beam(if the tank is attached to the frame itself or embedded elements).

The only problem that may arise during installation is the alignment of the flush hole of the floor-standing toilet with the flush elbow of the cistern.

Attaching a floor-standing toilet to the installation

Correct installation of a floor-standing toilet on an installation is only possible if the tiles on the floor have already been laid or there is an exact level of the finished surface. In this case, markings are made on the wall by selecting the center of the flush hole in the toilet as the reference point rather than the flush key. And the installation takes place in the following order:

Select a location for installing plumbing fixtures.
They mark a vertical axis on the wall. Mark on it the point of connection of the floor-standing toilet to the flush elbow of the cistern.
The dimensions of the block installation and attachment points are noted relative to this point.
The tank is secured (in a niche, on the wall, in a frame partition).
Connect to a water pipe.
Install the flush elbow.
They make a sewer line (along the wall, in a grooved channel, inside a frame partition.
The system and toilet are temporarily connected. Check the operation and tightness of the system.
Close the flush and drain pipes with plugs, and the studs with tubes.
The installation is covered with plasterboard (with holes for flushing and draining). Or they seal the niche and grooves with mortar.
The wall is being finished.
The floor-mounted toilet is connected and secured.

Installation procedure for a wall-hung toilet

The hanging bowl is mounted after the installation for the toilet has been installed and finished finishing work. And depending on the type of installation, installation method and wall materials, there are the following options for preparation for finishing:

install a block or frame system and cover the entire surface from floor to ceiling with a double layer of plasterboard;
install a frame or block system and make a box from plasterboard;
install a frame system in a frame wall;
install a frame or block system in a niche and or cover it with a layer of plaster.

After the installation and communications are “hidden” under the rough surface of the walls and floor, finishing is carried out with selected materials (tiles or decorative plaster). Then they begin to install the wall-hung toilet.

Note. It is believed that the maximum benefit from the hidden installation of the tank and communications is achieved if the installation for the toilet is installed in a niche.

Niche for installation

A niche is made in the wall for installation if the installation depth of the frame, materials and wall thickness allow such work to be performed. And in addition to the niche in the wall, they also cut channels for water and sewer pipes, which, like the installation, must be installed secretly.

Important. This method is not suitable for load-bearing walls made of bricks (for walls made of reinforced concrete, it is technically impossible to make a niche with your own hands). And if the arch of a niche can be reinforced with an insert made of a metal profile (standard practice for an opening), then this option is not suitable for hidden pipe laying - cutting horizontal channels in a load-bearing wall is prohibited at the regulatory level.
And make it without horizontal grooves hidden wiring extremely difficult - only if the pipes approach the niche from below, and are laid before it in a screed or between the joists of a wooden floor.

For a niche in the wall, there is only one option provided by the manufacturer - for a block installation with an attached toilet.

In addition to this option, they also use a bathroom niche in which the water supply and sewer risers pass. In this case, a frame made of a metal profile is installed in a niche, and a frame installation for a wall-mounted toilet is attached to it.

Installation of a frame with a tank in a niche

The complexity of this method is that the installation of the frame in the niche is “non-standard”. The installation instructions from GEBERIT and GROHE do not cover this option, and the kit does not include fasteners for this.

Installation of the frame in a niche proceeds according to the following algorithm:

Mark the line for installing the legs on the floor, taking into account the installation depth, the location of the water and sewer risers. The markings must be perpendicular to the walls of the niche or in the plane of the adjacent surface.
The verticals on the walls of the niches are set off from this line.
Mount reinforced guides of the UA50 profile on the floor, side walls of the niche and ceiling.
Install the frame into the profile and fasten it to the floor, having previously drilled holes for the dowels.
Set the height of the legs and the horizontal level of the frame.
Fasteners (studs or other type of fastening) are made to a specific size to rigidly fix the installation to the “far” wall of the niche. Drill holes for these fasteners and attach the frame.
Cut a section of the UA profile to the width of the niche. Attach it to the side profiles and frame.
Install the flush and drain fittings for a wall-hung toilet. Install studs to secure the bowl. Connect the tank to the water supply and the drain elbow to the sewer. The toilet is temporarily hung and connected to the installation. Check the system for leaks and operability.
Remove the tank, close the flush and drain holes with plugs, and close the toilet studs with protective tubes. Attach plasterboard cut to size to the profiles in two layers.

Sewage supply

Supplying water to the toilet installation does not cause any difficulties. And for any connection of the tank (from the side or from above), lay a rigid or flexible pipe Half an inch is always possible. With connection to the sewerage system the situation is more complicated. The diagram for the installation shows two types of connections:

the knee goes down at a right angle;
the knee is rotated 45° in the plane of the frame.

In most cases, the connection of the installation to the sewer system is based on these options.

The first option, for example, is used for direct connection to the drain, when the frame stands in the same niche as it. The second option is used when laying drain pipe to the riser along the wall.

But there are times when both options are not suitable due to limited space and the unique geometry of the bathroom - large diameter Rigid pipes and fixed elbow angles make it difficult to do this correctly. And in order to solve the problem of how to turn a sewer elbow away from the installation and provide the required slope angle, they use, for example, D 90/110 MM FLEXI corrugation from the ALCAPLAST company. But in this case, it is necessary to check the slope of the corrugation.

Connecting communications

To connect to the water supply, the installation kit includes an inlet valve with an external outlet for a ½-inch pipe and an angle shut-off valve inside the installation.

For toilet installations with a bidet function, an additional tube is supplied to the fitting intimate hygiene. And to ensure comfortable temperature, such models are also connected to the electrical network to heat water, which is used for washing. And for this purpose, fastenings are provided for mounting the protective tube of the electrical wiring.

How to check the system for functionality

After connecting to communications, before sewing up the installation, it is necessary to check the operation and the system for leaks. To do this, pre-install the toilet with the following installation:

adapters with cuffs and sealing rings are inserted into the flush and drain holes of the installation;
“put” the toilet on the studs and move it as close as possible to the installation so that the adapters fit more tightly into the toilet (it won’t be possible to push it in tightly - the pipes are too long);
open the shut-off valve on the inlet valve;
when the tank is full, drain the water (for pneumatics, you need to connect the button and flush valve with tubes, for mechanics, activate the flush valve rod by hand).

After checking and fixing possible malfunctions The toilet bowl, adapters and button are removed.

How to install a wall-hung toilet to an installation

Even when choosing a location and marking, it is ensured that the height of the wall-hung toilet from the floor without a lid is 40 cm. But if after laying the tiles it turns out that it will hang 2 cm higher or lower, this is acceptable.

The wall-hung toilet is mounted on studs after adjusting the size of the adapter pipes for connecting the toilet drain and flush to the installation:

Remove the protective plugs and tubes.
Insert the adapters into the elbows and mark the level “0” on them - the plane of the surface of the installation cladding.
Then insert the adapters with the other side into the toilet (put a sealing cuff on the flush bowl). Mark level “0” on the toilet.
Shorten the adapters by the difference between the two marks.

Place a gasket on the studs (it serves to protect the finish and dampen structural noise during flush operation) and begin installing the wall-hung toilet on the installation:

Rubber bushings are inserted into the holes for mounting the wall-hung toilet.
Insert adapter pipes into the drain and flush holes of the bowl.
Place the wall-mounted toilet on the studs so that the transition pipes fit exactly into their holes on the installation, and the bowl fits tightly to the wall.
Place elastic washers and steel washers on the studs and tighten the nuts.
Before finally tightening the fasteners, you can slightly adjust the horizontal level relative to the height of the toilet from the floor.

Installation of the flush button

According to the principle of operation, there are two types of toilet flush button: mechanical and pneumatic.

Even at the installation assembly stage, a flush valve is installed. Each company has its own design, but the principle of operation is common:

a mechanical button activates the flush using a pull rod, separate for each key - economy mode and full flush;
For a pneumatic flush, two tubes go from the valve to the button - for each mode there is one.

Installation of the flush button begins with its connection to the flush valve. For a mechanical drive, the rods (pins) must be “adjusted” in length and each connected to its own key, while for a pneumatic drive, the tubes must be connected.

Then the button is “snapped” into the socket.

Common Difficulties

The main problems arise due to the limited size of most bathrooms. This is especially true for strictly residential buildings, when in addition to the small “dimensions” there is added poor geometry of the room - the absence of right angles and parallels in the enclosing surfaces. In this case, even the slope of the wall is checked before installation. And leveling the walls further reduces the room for “maneuver” when installing the installation under the toilet.

The correct choice of type and model of installation, as well as the accuracy of markings, frame location and adherence to the installation diagram will help you avoid mistakes and alterations.

And the main condition is careful handling of mechanisms and sanitary ware. Even “tightening” the fastenings of the intake and exhaust valves or the hinged bowl can lead to a violation of the tightness of the connections or damage to the device itself.

What is important to know. You need to buy installation and plumbing from reputable brands. It is better to do this with dealers or trading companies that have appropriate agreements with service centers and provide a guarantee for the purchased product. In addition, if necessary, you can buy additional accessories or a repair kit for the selected installation model from such sellers.

From the author: Hello friends! Agree, it’s good when you have a spacious apartment, or even a house built in accordance with personal preferences. As a rule, all the rooms in such dwellings have quite decent dimensions, because comfort is the most important thing that we want to get from a home. But still, more often there are situations when we are forced to live not in ideal, but in affordable housing. Take, for example, the well-known “Khrushchev”. You can still come to terms with the size of the rooms in it. In principle, there is room to spread out, and not everyone likes huge halls.

But the bathroom is an eternal headache for the owners. As a rule, there is space for either plumbing or a person. You can still go there, but you can no longer turn around more or less freely. Therefore, in such cases, there is only one way out - to choose the most compact equipment possible. In today's article we will talk about how to choose and how to install a wall-hung toilet. This type of product can save much-needed space in the room. Of course, its installation is more complicated than in the case of ordinary sanitary ware. But believe me, the opportunity to free up space will make you very happy in the end.

Advantages and disadvantages

Many people are very wary of such “delicacies”. We are accustomed to seeing toilets in the guise of equipment firmly standing on the floor, reliable and strong. Hanging options seem more flimsy, and in general, people usually approach anything new with caution. Let's look at what positive and negative features are characteristic of this type of sanitary ware:

aesthetic appearance. A regular toilet looks rougher and even, one might say, frankly. Whereas the models attached to the wall are beautiful and laconic;
ease of cleaning. Usually, when cleaning the bathroom, the toilet “leg” causes a lot of problems, especially in a cramped room where it is difficult to bend down. You have to get close to it, and then carefully clean all the bends that are there, while being in an uncomfortable position. With pendants, you can forget about such difficulties, since there is no leg - no problem;
all communications and the water tank itself are hidden in the wall. On the one hand, it is beautiful and, again, aesthetically pleasing. No pipes disturb the external harmony of the room. On the other hand, if something hidden suddenly breaks, problems may arise. Firstly, if there is a leak, it is difficult to notice quickly. Secondly, the repair will not be so simple, since the elements sealed in the wall will have to be approached somehow. Although I have seen very convenient options, when a door is made in a false wall at the level where such equipment is placed - in particular, problem areas such as joints, valves, etc. Outwardly, it does not stand out too much from the surface, since it is finished with the same decorative material, which is the whole wall. At the same time, the issue of access to communications is resolved easily and simply;
space saving. We have already touched on this issue above, but we should clarify this point. It is physical savings in terms of the size of the room that you will get about fifteen centimeters, no more, since some part will be occupied by a false wall, which we will talk about below. But visually it will become much more spacious. And then, in especially critical cases, the space under such a toilet can also be useful for placing some necessary things. So, in any case, there is a spatial benefit;
Some people have doubts about whether such equipment can withstand heavy loads. Such fears arise especially often among those who weigh a lot. Purely psychologically, an object hanging on the wall does not look very reliable, so obese people are usually afraid to use such things. In fact, the mount is strong enough to support a weight of about 150 kilograms. so there is nothing to be afraid of if your body weight does not exceed these limits. Otherwise, of course, it is better to take the usual floor-mounted option;
price. Here the wall-hung toilet has nothing to brag about: it is frankly more expensive than its floor-standing counterpart. True, it cannot be said that this option is available only to wealthy people. The cost range is quite wide, so you can still choose a model that suits your budget;
complexity of installation. This can also scare off many, especially beginners, masters. In general, it’s not in vain, since installing a hanging model correctly with your own hands is not such a simple matter. You will have to install not only the equipment itself, but also make a false wall. However, the difficulty of this activity is not prohibitive. So, with a little patience and attentiveness, you will definitely succeed.

Varieties of design

In principle, the essence of all wall-hung toilets is the same: they consist of a tank, a bowl and an installation. Of course, each of these parts is different from those typical for floor-standing models. The bowl has a different shape, the tank is flat and plastic. It’s worth talking about installation separately.

Installation

The installation is, in fact, the very structure thanks to which all other elements are safely held in suspension. It is a strong frame made of steel.

There are two options for mounting installations: block and frame. The former are distinguished by their compact dimensions - as a rule, the dimensions are half a meter wide, a meter high and 10–15 centimeters deep. The volume of the drain tank, which is mounted on such a frame, varies from three to five liters.

The block installation is mounted only on the wall, without the floor. Therefore, the foundation must be very reliable. That is, to secure such a structure, only one is suitable, but not an interior one. This must be taken into account when choosing.

Frame installations are larger in size. Their width can range from 50 to 60 centimeters, height from 80 to 140 centimeters, and depth varies from 15 to 30 centimeters. The tank installed on this structure can hold from 6 to 9 liters of water.

Such structures are not hung on the wall. They are placed on the floor and attached to it. Some models are additionally fixed to the wall, but it does not have to be load-bearing.

Bowl

The main operational location of such a toilet can be round, rectangular, egg-shaped, etc. - the modern market offers many different options, among which you can choose the one that suits your taste. The bowls also differ in size. They can be compact, up to half a meter long, medium-sized, like regular toilets, and also large, the length of which varies from 65 to 70 centimeters.

In addition, you can choose models with some features:

bowls without a rim - there is no usual protrusion in their upper part, which makes cleaning the product much easier;
built-in bidet - in the normal state the washing nozzle is hidden in the back wall of the bowl, and if necessary it extends;
backlight As a rule, it is connected to a motion sensor, which makes using such a toilet extremely convenient at night or when there is a power outage in the house.

Of course, the design of the bowls can be very diverse. There are options made of glass, faience, metal and other materials, with and without drawings. The color range is also very wide. Here the choice depends solely on your personal preferences.

Installation procedure

Installation of wall-hung toilets can be done either with or without installation. The first option is more popular, so we’ll start with it.

Installation with installation

The first thing to check is the strength of the wall and floor. Ideally, they should be concrete. We remind you that if you decide to use a block version of the frame, then the wall must be load-bearing. The reliability of the installation of suspended sanitary ware depends on the strength of the connection between the frame and the base. So, let's get to work.

We start, naturally, with the markup. We need to mark on the wall and floor all the points where fasteners will be placed, as well as the location of the sewer outlet and water pipe. To make it easier, first mark the place where the cistern will be fixed. Usually it is located a meter from the floor, and the bowl is half a meter.
Now you need to bring the water pipe to the appropriate mark. To do this, you can use a flexible hose, but the best option would still be metal-plastic. It is more reliable and durable.
We also bring the sewer outlet to the desired location. If your installation is of the frame type, then pay attention to the fact that it has a specific section for this pipe, according to which you need to place it.
Next we proceed to fixing the frame. We drill holes in the places marked for fasteners; for this we will need a hammer drill. We install the dowels, then the frame, fasten it with anchor screws. Fixation is carried out first on the floor and then, if necessary, on the wall.
We connect the drain tank to the water supply pipe, and also attach the sewer outlet to the installation.
The steel frame has holes for screwing in special pins that come with the equipment. Put these elements in place.
Now you need to mount the false wall. The best option For this purpose - drywall. But keep in mind that not everyone is suitable. Ordinary drywall does not withstand exposure to water very well. Since we are talking about a bathroom (and it is often also combined), care must be taken to prevent the destruction of the wall. Therefore, use only waterproof drywall. Externally it differs from ordinary material greenish surface. Cut holes in a sheet of drywall for everything that will stick out from it: a sewer pipe, pins, a drain button, and the like. Mount the wall and then finish it. This can be done using paint or tiles.
We put the bowl on the pins, press it properly against the wall, and secure it with bolts.
To complete the process, we install a drain button.

Let's check our design. To do this, open the valve on the cold water supply pipe, wait until the tank is filled, then drain. We repeat several times. If everything is in order - performance is at the required level, there are no leaks, etc. - then you can put it into operation.

Installation without installation

You can do without a steel frame, but such installation is carried out only on load-bearing wall. You will need metal rods 30 centimeters or more in length, wooden panels, concrete, toilet structural elements and wall cladding material.

We take it out from the wall.
At the required height from the floor (that is, where the bowl will be fixed), we drill holes and install metal rods in them. It is advisable that the wall be drilled through and the rods secured with nuts on the reverse side. If this is not possible - for example, there is a neighbors apartment on the other side - then do not drill right through, but add glue intended for concrete products into the holes before installing the rods.
Next, around the sewer outlet and rods we install formwork from wooden shields, creating a box of three walls. Cover the pipe with a thick film. We fix a piece of foam plastic on the central panel in the place where the bowl will be connected to the drain.
We pour concrete into the formwork. You can make it yourself from one part of cement, two sand, three crushed stone and required quantity water. We add soap as a plasticizer.
After pouring, wait about a week for the structure to dry. We remove the formwork.
We mount the bowl and tank in the appropriate places, connect the communications.
We sew and finish the wall.

Both installation methods are not so simple. But using the installation is still more convenient and takes much less time. With concrete you will have to tinker as much as possible. In addition, such work is not particularly clean, and drying the block around the pins will take a whole week.

On the other hand, this option is cheaper. So, if you prefer to spend effort rather than money, then go for it. Good luck!

Due to a number of advantages, wall-hung toilets are steadily gaining popularity.

In reality, everything is not so scary at all, and even a beginner will be able to install a wall-hung toilet with an installation, if only he carefully reads the instructions.

When purchasing, you should first pay attention to its material and shape.

A variety of materials are used, but the vast majority of devices are traditionally made from two types of ceramics:

Faience: the material is inexpensive, but due to its porous structure, permanent yellow stains soon appear on it.
Porcelain: There are no pores in this material, so the appearance of the product remains attractive longer. But it also costs a little more.

Other materials have the following advantages:

stainless steel: not afraid of impacts, therefore suitable for public places;
acrylic and other types of plastic: budget option;
natural stone: luxury toilets, so to speak, executive class.

The most preferred are round or oval shaped bowls. Rectangular ones are also made, but as practice has shown, they are less convenient to use.

Don’t forget to make sure that the chosen model fits well in the room: for comfortable use, there should be at least 60 cm of free space in front of the toilet.

Installation selection

Includes several components:

support frame;
cistern;
pipes and fittings for connecting communications.

First of all, these designs differ, which can be:

Frame: such installations are called free-standing. They transfer the entire load only to the floor, so they can be installed even near a cardboard screen. You can recognize a frame installation by its reinforced legs. In contrast to block ones, they are more expensive and take up more space.
Block: such installations are also called wall installations. They are designed for hanging on a permanent wall. Trying to attach a block frame to a flimsy partition will end in disaster as soon as the wall-hung toilet comes under load.

Toilet after installation

If there is a solid wall in the bathroom, such structures should be given preference because they:

are the cheapest;
They have a small depth, as a result of which the room loses little in volume.

When choosing an installation, we must not forget that this plumbing fixture is installed in a hidden way, so it is extremely important that it is of sufficient quality. Leaks will be very expensive, not only because of the need to dismantle the partition, but also because the water will not be immediately detected and will have time to properly flood the neighbors.

To minimize the risk of an accident, conscientious manufacturers develop reliable designs and use only the highest quality materials. Cheap imitations are assembled from whatever is available, so the money saved will most likely have to be paid for restoring the neighbor’s interior.

Vitra Zentrum kit

The design of the installation, for obvious reasons, does not matter, which cannot be said about the flush button. It comes in a variety of designs, so you can find suitable option for any interior. In addition, the flush buttons differ in their mode of action:

In mechanical systems, the connection between the button and the drain valve is carried out through levers and rods. A simple, uncomplicated option and at the same time the cheapest. The disadvantage of such a button is that it can only be installed in a strictly defined location.
Pneumatic ones are connected to the valve by a tube in which pressure is created when the button is pressed. It opens the valve.

The latter option costs a little more, but installation is possible anywhere the tube can reach.

Required tools and materials

Here's what you need to arm yourself with to successfully cope with the installation of a wall-hung toilet:

hammer drill or impact drill with a set of drills for concrete;
rack level (also called bubble level);
grinder or pipe cutter - depending on the material of the pipes;
gas key;
screwdriver;

In case of use plastic pipes Additionally, you may need a special heater (for welding polypropylene pipes) or press pliers (for installing fittings on metal-plastic pipes).

You will also need to prepare some materials:

Anchor bolts. Usually 4 pieces are used.
To make a false wall, you will need galvanized profiles, dowels and moisture-resistant plasterboard or the same gypsum fiber sheets.
Sealing material for pipe threaded connections. When using today's popular flexible hoses sealing material is not needed, but it is better not to use them to connect the installation due to insufficient reliability. It is more correct to connect pipes to the pipes using couplings, and here you cannot do without a sealant.

Experienced craftsmen prefer tow or plumbing flax with Unipak paste, but a beginner should not mess with such a sealant: if it is “overdosed”, the screwed-on part - a coupling or a tap - may burst. Less demanding in terms of experience and skills are fluoroplastic sealant (FUM tape) and “Tanget Unilock” linen thread.

You must make sure that the purchased toilet is fully equipped. In the package the user should find:

cup;
installation with a tank, fittings and pipes;
flush button (usually selected separately);
soundproofing plate.

The kit should also include a vapor barrier material, with which structures are protected from condensation.

Toilet installation with installation

In this order:

The installation is installed in place and secured. It is important that it is installed without distortions, so the position of the frame must be controlled by a level. You can level it using adjustable feet.
Communications - sewerage and water supply - are supplied and connected to the installation. To connect the sewer pipe, you have to use a 45 degree bend.
All connections must be carefully sealed. When connecting the sewer, you should not rely on the reliability of the rubber cuff - the rubber dries out over time. The joint should also be filled with sealant. The sewerage outlet on the installation must be closed with a plug to prevent unpleasant odors from entering the room.
After connecting the installation, the studs are screwed into it to secure the toilet, and the flush tank is closed with a lid. To prevent the threads on the studs from being contaminated during installation and finishing of the partition, plastic sleeves are placed on them.
A test is carried out: the toilet is hung and connected to the tank and sewer system, but not secured, after which a test flush is performed. If leaks are detected, the connections are repacked. After checking, the toilet bowl is disconnected.
A partition is being installed. For fastening frame profiles and plasterboard sheets You should use oxidized or phosphated self-tapping screws, which can be identified by their black color. Conventional fasteners will corrode in conditions of high humidity.

Access to the main components of the installation can be obtained through the flush button, but, nevertheless, it is advisable to provide hatches in the partition for quick access to other components.

Installation installation

The finished partition must be covered with tiles or other material.

A flush button is installed.
A soundproofing plate is installed. It needs to be put on the studs and sewer outlet, for which they are freed from plastic sleeves and plugs.
The bowl is hung on the pins. At the same time, it is connected to the sewer outlet and the tank pipe. Both connections must be sealed using sealant, which is applied to one of the contacting surfaces before installation.
Nuts and washers are screwed onto the ends of the studs, and decorative caps are placed on top of them.
The edges of the soundproofing plate protruding from under the bowl are trimmed, and the contact area with the wall is treated with sanitary sealant.

At this point, the installation of the wall-hung toilet is considered complete.