Installation of a floor-standing toilet. Correct installation of a toilet in a private house with your own hands: step-by-step instructions. Installing a toilet on taffeta

Having “straight” hands, you can do most of the housework yourself. This category of work also includes installing a toilet. Knowing the sequence of actions, installation or replacement can be done with your own hands.

Installing a toilet with your own hands is a task of medium complexity

Types of toilets

In this article, we will consider not the flushing features or the shape of the bowl, but those design features that determine the list of installation work.

By installation method

The toilet itself consists of a plumbing bowl and cistern. The bowl may be floor mounting or hanging. If the bowl is suspended, then the tank is hidden - built into the wall. In the case of a floor-standing bowl, there are three options for mounting the tank: on a special shelf on the bowl (compact), separate, connected using a flexible hose, in an installation (hidden in the wall of the frame).

The advantage of a floor-standing toilet with a regular flush cistern is its ease of installation. It can be installed without starting repairs. The disadvantage is that compared to a suspended one, it takes up more space and looks heavier. Accordingly, installation of suspended models is complicated - they require fastening load-bearing structure- installations - in the wall. Perhaps this is only during renovation.

Release to sewer

The choice of toilet for discharge into the sewer depends on the location of the sewer pipe. They happen:

If the pipe is in the floor, a vertical outlet will be optimal. If the outlet is in the floor, but is close to the wall, it is most convenient to have an oblique toilet. The horizontal version is universal. Using a corrugated pipe, it can be connected to both the wall and the floor.

Installation of a toilet with a compact cistern (floor-standing version)

The store usually delivers the toilet bowl, tank, flush device and float separately. Before installing the toilet, everything except the float must be assembled.

What does a floor-standing toilet with a compact cistern consist of?

Assembly

The process begins with the installation of a drainage device. It comes assembled, you only need to install it in the hole in the bottom of the tank. A rubber gasket is placed between the drainage device and the tank.

WITH reverse side The supplied plastic washer is screwed onto the pipe. It is tightened by hand, then using a key, but very carefully, since it is easy to break the plastic. To prevent the drain device from spinning, it must be held with your hand.

The next step is to install the mounting screws on the tank. They are also included as standard. These are long thin screws made of galvanized or stainless steel. They are inserted into two small holes at the bottom of the tank, put on rubber gaskets, then washers, and only then screw on the nuts.

Before installing the tank on the toilet bowl, a gasket (included) is placed under the tank. To prevent odors from leaking out of the sewer, it must be “seated” with sealant. First we coat it on one side, place it on the toilet, coat it on the other, and place the tank.

We install the tank on the shelf of the bowl, passing the screws into the corresponding holes. We put washers and nuts on the screws from below and tighten them. At the same time, make sure that the tank is level.

Next, we install a float - a device for controlling the water level in the tank. There are two holes at the top of the tank. Here we insert the device into one of them. It is mounted on the side from which the water supply will be connected.

We wrap a little flax around the outlet pipe, coat it with plumbing paste, and install an angle (brass or stainless steel). Do not overtighten the connection, do not hammer it in; the pipe is made of plastic.

Installing a tee

Floor mounting

The toilet is almost assembled, it can be put back in place. The toilet is connected to the sewer using a corrugated adapter. It has rubber seals at the ends that fit tightly into the pipes and onto the toilet outlet.

If the sewer pipe is plastic, the corrugation is simply inserted until it stops. If the riser is cast iron, and not yet new, so that the smell does not seep through the microcracks, the pipe is cleaned to the metal, washed and dried. A layer of sealant is applied around the circumference of the dry, clean metal (a little more in the lower part), then the corrugation is inserted. To be more sure, you can also apply sealant to the outside of the joint.

In any case, in sewer pipe insert the corrugation.

The second end of the corrugation is put on the toilet outlet. This is the connection of the toilet to the sewer. It's so simple. There is just one caveat. So that it can be removed later, the corrugation outlet and the toilet bowl outlet are lubricated with soap soaked in water, and only then the bell is put on. If this is not done, removing the toilet without damaging the corrugation will be problematic. But you still have to drill holes for fasteners. It will be much more convenient to remove rather than try to move a partially fixed device.

Having put the corrugation on the outlet, we position the toilet the way it will stand. Having installed the lid on the tank, we check that there is room for it. Next, you need to sit down, check the comfort of use, and adjust the position if necessary. Then take a pencil or marker, insert it into the holes in the sole, and mark the places for installing the fasteners.

After removing the toilet, drill holes for dowels in the marked places. If included plastic fastener, don't use it - it will break in a few days. It is necessary to immediately install powerful dowels.

If the toilet is installed on tiles, to prevent them from cracking, it is better to cover the glazed surface. Take a self-tapping screw, mark it, and hit it with a hammer several times. This is called “kerning”. Then take a drill or hammer drill and drill the tiles, turning off the impact mode. Once the tiles have been passed through, you can turn on the perforation mode.

We put it in the holes plastic stoppers from dowels. They must be in the same plane with the floor. If there is a thicker edge, cut it off with a sharp knife.

We sweep the floor, removing dust in the area where the toilet is installed. We put it in place, insert dowels into the holes, and tighten them using the appropriate key. The bolts must be tightened alternately, first on one side, then on the other. Tighten until the toilet is secure and free of play.

The final touch is connecting to the water supply. Connect the outlet of the water pipe with the tap installed on it with the corner on the tank that was connected earlier. For this you need a flexible hose. There are union nuts (American) at its ends, so there will be no problems with fastening. We tighten well, but without fanaticism.

How to install a wall-hung toilet with installation

To install wall-hung toilets, the outlet of the sewer pipe must be located near the wall. The specific distance from the wall is indicated by the manufacturer, but it should be small - about 13-15 cm from the far edge. If the exit is from the floor, there is a solution - a special lining, with the help of which the drain is moved closer to the wall.

Installation wall hung toilet It begins with attaching the wall stops to the installation frame. They are attached in two at the top and bottom. With their help, the distance to the wall is adjusted, the frame is raised and launched.

The upper stops have the form of rods and are adjusted using a socket wrench and a screwdriver. The lower stops are more like plates, they are also adjustable socket wrench but with a lateral position of the head.

The assembled frame is placed against the wall, its center is positioned above the middle sewer outlet. The mark on the frame rises or falls to the height required by the manufacturer (there is a mark on the frame, also indicated in the passport, usually 1 meter).

Using a bubble level, the horizontal and vertical installation of the installation for a wall-hung toilet is checked.

Checking horizontality

By adjusting the height of the stops, an equal distance from the wall, specified by the manufacturer, is set. How to conveniently do this, look at the photo.

The exposed frame must be fixed to the wall. Mark them in appropriate places with a pencil or marker and drill holes. Plastic dowel bodies are installed in them. Most of the wall-hung toilets are imported, and they recommend sealing the dowel bodies with sealant. IN drilled hole Some of the sealant is squeezed out and a dowel is inserted. Then, before installing the fastener itself, the sealant is applied to the plastic housing.

Connecting elements - pipes, couplings - can be installed in a fixed installation. They all come included and simply snap into place.

Next, metal rods are installed on which the toilet bowl will be supported. They are screwed into the corresponding sockets, and silicone seals are put on top (in the bottom photo these are two rods above the sewer outlet).

The sewer pipe extends to the required distance and is fixed in the specified position using a bracket. It covers the pipe from above and is inserted into the groove until it clicks.

Next, water is connected to the tank. Open the tank lid (it has latches), remove the plug on the side surface. Right or left - depends on where your water supply is. A corrugated pipe is inserted into the opened hole, a mating part is inserted from the inside, everything is connected using a union nut. It is necessary to tighten without using excessive force - it is plastic.

A tee is installed inside the tank, and a pipe (usually plastic) is connected to the desired outlet. This is done with the help of an adapter and an American one.

The hose from the tank is connected to the special inlet of the tee. It is flexible, in a metal braid. Tightened with a union nut.

Replace the cover. In principle, the installation for the toilet is installed. Now we need to close it. To do this, make a false wall from moisture-resistant plasterboard. It is recommended to use two sheets, but one is also possible. Drywall is attached to the installation frame and to the mounted profiles.

The toilet is placed on pins, its outlet goes into a plastic socket. The connection is sealed, no additional measures are required. This completes the installation of the toilet.

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The toilet is an integral plumbing fixture in any apartment, as well as in many private homes. The need to replace it - common occurrence, the cause may be a breakdown that does not allow for repair, or a desire to update the interior of the bathroom. You can change the earthenware product yourself; it will require time and some skills in the field of plumbing installation. But if you want all the work to be done as quickly and efficiently as possible, it’s easier to turn to a professional. One question remains - where to find a conscientious craftsman who is ready to install a new plumbing fixture at an affordable cost? Here you can not only find specialist contacts, but also explore affordable offers.
A competent craftsman will take into account all possible nuances and install the product on a turnkey basis of any system - with an oblique or direct outlet, suspended or floor-mounted, with various types flush, regular or compact cistern. When working, it is important to correctly place the rack located inside the structure; it is responsible for stopping the water supply after filling the container, securely fasten the screws and connect flexible liner to water supply pipes. Installing a toilet is a responsible task, so do not trust it to amateurs and do not do it yourself without the necessary skills. How much does it cost to install or replace a plumbing fixture? It all depends on the type of fixation and the need to dismantle old equipment. The contractor makes the final verdict after inspecting the object.

Conventional floor-mounted toilets have been replaced by wall-hung structures that do not take up floor space and look more modern. It is not surprising that wall-mounted models have begun to push traditional products out of the market. Installation suspended structure It’s more complicated, takes more time and costs more, but you can save money if you consider an option such as installing a wall-hung toilet yourself.

Internal structure and principle of operation of the design

If you look into design features products, it becomes clear how to install a wall-mounted toilet.

The design of the wall-mounted product is such that the visible element is only the toilet bowl

The first element is a strong steel frame, which is the base to which the visible part of the structure is attached - the toilet bowl. It is with its installation that the installation of a wall-hung toilet begins. The frame is securely fixed to the wall, and also fixed to the floor - as a result, it must withstand the weight of a heavy person.

Accordingly, it is unacceptable to install this structure on weak walls (for example, made of plasterboard), since the wall simply will not hold up. The frame is equipped with a device that allows you to adjust the height (400-430 mm) at which the product bowl is mounted. It is suspended from the frame using special pins - this is the main fastening of the wall-hung toilet.

Often two installations are installed simultaneously - for the toilet and for the bidet

The second element is a plastic cistern hidden in the wall. Its shape differs from the traditional one, since the container must fit into a narrow structure. It is mounted in a steel frame and insulated with a special material that prevents condensation - styrofoam. The front wall of the tank is equipped with a cutout for mounting a release button device. In case of repair, this cutout is also used. Almost all modern tanks require dosing of drainage: for example, the volume of water discharged can be 3 liters or 6 liters, depending on the purpose.

Flush tanks of a flat configuration are fixed inside the installation

The third element is the toilet bowl, the only visible and actively used structural part. Its shape is traditional, oval, although designer models There are both round and rectangular configurations.

The toilet bowl can be rectangular or even round - it all depends on the designer’s imagination and the client’s desires

There should be no problems with fasteners, since the product comes with a set of necessary parts and tools and installation instructions. Sometimes it is necessary to additionally purchase Teflon tape, a polyethylene outlet, a flexible hose, and studs.

Installation technology

Installing a wall-hung toilet using a special frame installed in the wall is more expensive, but more reliable and faster.

The installation must be mounted to the floor and main wall

Installation steps:

water pipe

The height of the toilet bowl is adjustable during installation

Water supply to the tank. It can be flexible or rigid. Experts insist on the hard version, as it lasts much longer. While the liner is being installed, the valve in the tank is closed.

During work, the water drain from the tank should be shut off.

Connection of the toilet to the sewerage system. The toilet outlet is inserted into the sewer outlet and the connection is secured using corrugations. After installation, it is necessary to test the system - do a test drain. To do this, the toilet bowl is temporarily completely screwed to the frame. It is then removed again, as it is usually installed at the final stage.

Many installation kits are connected to a sewer pipe without the use of corrugations

metal profile

detailed diagram

An improvised shelf above the toilet and bidet can be used for decoration or necessary things

ceramic tiles

finishing material

The wall cladding behind the toilet should be in harmony with the rest of the room’s decoration

steel frame

Sheets of plasterboard with lining cover the installation and the flush cistern, leaving the toilet bowl and flush button

Particular attention should be paid to the correct installation of the installation, since the correct execution of subsequent work depends on it.

Installation of a toilet without installation, on a concrete base

Sometimes people are interested in how to install a wall-hung toilet without installation. Of course, installing a toilet on a frame can be replaced with a cheaper option - installing it on a self-made concrete base.

The flush cistern is installed in two ways: either mounted in the wall with flush buttons, or placed in a standard manner above the toilet bowl in a manufactured base.

Wall-mounted toilet mounting diagram: 1 - 2 rods mounted in the wall; 2 - monolithic concrete base; 3 - drain pipe

Let's consider the most economical option.

To install you need to prepare:

about 40 liters of M200 concrete;
boards for formwork;
nuts, washers, wood screws;
2 threaded rods 2 cm thick (length from 50 to 80 cm);
piece plastic pipe(length – 8 cm or more, diameter – 11 cm);
drain coupling;
silicone sealant.

Procedure:

They start by securing the rods in the main wall. In the future, the toilet bowl will be “planted” on the outlets of the rods. The result is a fairly stable structure that can withstand a weight of 400-500 kg.

Dimensions concrete base calculated taking into account further dismantling of the formwork

Install the formwork. Calculate the distance between the holes for fasteners and mark the fastening points on the formwork.

Calculate the length of the rods: sum up the thickness of the recess (about 15 cm), the distance from the toilet bowl to the wall. To fix the rods in the wall, a chemical anchor is used - a special glue for concrete.

After installing the pins and installing the formwork, try on the toilet bowl. The holes for fastening must coincide with the outlets, the outlet hole must coincide with the outlet of the coupling.

The concrete base will finally harden only after 2-3 weeks.

Concreting begins, supporting the drain hole with foam. The result is a monolithic block with a fixed open coupling and protruding pins.

The concrete base should include pins for the toilet bowl, a coupling outlet for the flush and space at the top for mounting a cistern.

There is no need to think about how to install a wall-mounted toilet on a prepared base - the subsequent steps are no different from installing a regular floor-standing toilet: connect the drain, seal the connections, install the bowl on the pins, tighten the nuts. The flush cistern is fixed above the toilet bowl.

The concrete base and drain pipe can be covered with sheets of plasterboard, leaving an opening for access to the drain tank

Installing a wall-hung toilet like this yourself will save the family budget, since expensive installation is not required.

To properly install the toilet on tiles follow our step-by-step instructions, complete with photos and videos.

Working time: ~ 1 hour.
Total time: ~ 24 hours.

Preparing the room for installing a toilet

It is better to install a toilet in a completely renovated room, so as not to damage the plumbing. You must have a hole ready for the outgoing sewer pipe, as well as a water outlet for the drain tank.

Tools and materials required for proper installation

To install the toilet we will need the following tools and materials:

Adjustable wrench
Flexible hose
Fum tape
Pencil or felt-tip pen
Measuring tape
Hammer
Dowels and bolts (must be included with the toilet)
Plumbing grease
Liquid silicone
Rubber spatula

How to properly install a toilet with your own hands

Step 1. Connection to the cistern

Shut off water access to the system. Unscrew the plug on the water outlet using an adjustable wrench. A faucet must be connected here. You can use an angle or straight tap according to your choice. Seal the threads on the tap with fum tape and screw the tap into the water outlet. If using an angle tap, screw it so that it faces down. Turn off the faucet valve.

Screw the flexible hose to the tap outlet. It is not necessary to use fum tape, since the design of the flexible supply hose includes a sealing rubber band.

Step 2. Marking the toilet installation guide

To install the toilet exactly in the middle of the toilet, measure the width of the room against the wall and mark the middle with a pencil. Do the same in the middle of the room and draw a line along two marks. This line will be our guideline, determining the direction of correct installation of the toilet.

Step 3. Assembling the sewer drain

If necessary, supplement the sewer drain with an angled pipe (45-90 degrees) so that its opening faces the toilet outlet pipe at a smoother angle.

Advice: To make it easier to connect two pipes, use plumber's lubricant. Apply it to the inside of the drain hole (lubricate the rubber O-ring) and to the outside corner pipe, which will fit into the hole.

The sewer drain can be connected to the toilet outlet in two ways:

hard plastic adapter;
flexible corrugation.

In both cases, when inserting the connector, use plumber's lubricant as indicated above.

Step 4. Preparing the base of the toilet and marking it on the tiled floor

Advice: Do not pre-connect the tank to the toilet. You will learn later in the article when and how to connect the tank to the toilet.

Take the base of the toilet and turn it upside down. The edge of the toilet support must be smooth and free of defects. Clean it if necessary with a sharp knife.

Place the toilet base on the floor at the installation location. Refer to the line you drew earlier (see step 2) to ensure that the toilet is positioned correctly and exactly in the center of the toilet. Additionally, check the correct installation by measuring the distances from the toilet to the left and right walls with a tape measure.

Connect the toilet pipe to the adapter drainage system and outline the perimeter of the toilet base with a pencil or felt-tip pen - this will help you install it in the future without additional measurements. Also mark the locations of the mounting holes on both sides.

Step 5. Attaching the toilet to the tile floor

Move the toilet aside and drill holes in the tile for fasteners. Use a special tile drill. The depth of the holes should be equal to the length of the dowels that come with the toilet. Drive plastic dowels into the holes drilled in the tiles.

Reinstall the toilet along the lines you drew and connect it to the sewer drain. Screw the metal screws with washers that come with the toilet into both mounting holes, but only halfway.

Step 6. Additional fastening of the toilet with liquid silicone

Raise the toilet by 0.5-1 cm, place some supports in two or three places (use what you have on hand - plastic, pieces of tile, etc.). In the gap between the base of the toilet and floor tiles very carefully introduce the white liquid silicone. Do this around the entire perimeter of the toilet base. Lift the edges of the toilet with your hands and add silicone as you remove the stands. The silicone should be distributed evenly around the entire perimeter of the toilet base and create a rich “cushion”.

Lower the toilet and tighten the mounting screws completely by hand (without excessive force). Remove excess silicone that appears on the outside with a plastic spatula moistened with soapy water. Form a beautiful edging around the entire perimeter of the base.

You need to wait a few hours (see the silicone hardening time on the package), and only then continue to install the toilet.

How to install a toilet flush mechanism

Place a gasket on the threads of the main drain device and insert it into the technological hole of the drain tank. On the reverse side, tighten the wide nut with your own hands - do not use tools to avoid splitting the tank.

Advice: We recommend installing a shut-off device that controls the flow of water into the flush tank after installing the flush tank on the toilet. This will make tightening the mounting screws more convenient - you will not be disturbed by the extra mechanism inside the tank.

When installing the shut-off device, check for burrs on the bottom of the device where the hose fits. Remove any rough edges to ensure a tight connection. Insert the shut-off device into the hole provided for it in the tank and tighten it on the reverse side with a plastic nut. Again, do not use any tools; tighten the nut by hand.

How to install a flush cistern on a toilet

Once the silicone is completely cured and assembled drain mechanism tank, you can begin installing it on the toilet.

Between the flush cistern and the base of the toilet it is necessary to lay a soft gasket in the form of a ring (included with the toilet). Then slide the tank onto the toilet so that the holes for the tie screws on the toilet line up with the holes on the tank. The connecting screws should have a plastic flat washer and a rubber cone washer. Insert the mounting screws into the holes in the drain tank and use plastic nuts (horns) to tighten them on the other side. When tightening the screws, make sure the tank is horizontal.

Screw the flexible hose supplying water to the fitting at the drain tank. This connection does not require the use of fum tape, since the connection will occur through a rubber gasket.

The installation of the flush tank on the toilet is completed, you can open the tap and check the flow of water, as well as see and eliminate possible leaks in the system.

Place the lid on the cistern so that all the elements fit into the hole. trigger mechanism. Screw the release button into the hole. Check the functionality of the button. At this stage, the installation of the toilet cistern is complete.

How to install a toilet seat and toilet seat

The simplest thing remains. Place the seat on the toilet and insert the mounting screws into the holes. Lightly tighten the screws on the back of the toilet with the nuts. The toilet seat installation is complete.

Video lesson: How to properly install a toilet on a tiled floor in a toilet

The work is completed. You installed the toilet yourself and rest assured, you did it right!

Most compatriots, in particular skilled craftsmen, often independently undertake repairs to the house and its various systems. However, due to certain circumstances, they treat the installation of new plumbing with extreme caution and even disbelief. own strength. And although often for installing a toilet, for example, you have to pay mercenaries an amount equivalent to the cost of the toilet itself, this fact still does not stop them. But in vain, because installing a toilet with your own hands is a very simple task!

Preparing for installation

Of course, it wouldn’t hurt for you to become familiar with a number of specific nuances associated with the installation procedure, but they are so accessible that you can figure them out without any problems. In fact, it turns out that installation, direct installation and connection to common system sewerage systems of all types of bathrooms are practically no different from each other. The only difference can be identified in the connection of some additional functions, coupled with the installation of an automated system.

Different systems consist of similar elements

Of course, any toilet comes with step-by-step instructions for assembling it. There should not be any difficulties during the installation of the drain and fill system. However, close attention must be paid, since its job is to regulate the pressure and volume of water filling the tank.

Check the complete set of the drain tank

The application deserves special attention. This solution is very convenient to use. We will talk about installation in detail in a separate review.

Toilet installation step by step

Let's look at the main pitfalls in the procedure for installing a brand new toilet. We will talk specifically about new residents, that is, our instructions do not imply dismantling the old bathroom. Therefore, be careful.

So, to install the newly purchased toilet yourself, you need to do the following:

This is all! Self-installation the bathroom has come to an end. However, you should not immediately use it for its intended purpose: you must allow the silicone to harden. He does this for 6 hours. By the way, don’t skimp on the sealant! There is never too much of it in installation work. But be sure to make sure that the silicone does not end up inside the pipe.

Note: For self-installation you don’t need a bathroom and its tank professional tools. It is enough to stock up on a set of wrenches and adjustable type.

Bathroom with vertical outlet

This model is especially popular in European countries. Such a toilet is a device in which the siphon located in the bowl and the outlet pipe are directed downwards when installed. This universal design allows you to install the bathroom at any angle to the wall.

For installation you only need to perform a few steps:

Do floor markings and install a regular screw flange with a locking device;

Install the sewer pipe in the center of the flange;

Mount the toilet on the flange and securely fix the outlet pipe.

Bathroom with horizontal outlet

Or in another way with direct release “into the wall”. Most common in Russia. The outlet of such a toilet is invariably directed backwards. The outlet pipe in this design is connected to the sewer pipe using a specific cuff.

In the installation procedure, pay attention to the attachment of the bathroom to the floor. The legs of this type of toilet are usually equipped with specific holes designed for fixing plumbing fixtures specifically to the floor surface.

Advice: You should begin connecting a bathroom with direct outlet during its installation. Dowels and standard screws are used as fasteners. Fasten the structure with great care, since excessively strong and sharp screw “pulling” is quite capable of damaging the integrity of the bathroom.

Toilet with oblique outlet

Let's look at the main installation points:

Specifics of connection without corrugation

We have already discussed connecting the bathroom to the general sewerage system using corrugated pipes in step-by-step instructions. Is it possible to connect a toilet without using corrugation, and won’t this process be more complicated? Such a connection is, of course, possible, but it is unlikely to raise any questions for you.

If you are finally convinced that the corrugation is unnecessary, then take a closer look at the following specific nuances in the procedure for such a connection:

Mandatory use of a drain pipe. Taking into account the angle of the toilet, connecting the adapter is carried out using different methods:

bathroom with oblique outlet– installation is carried out in the floor: in modern apartments You won’t see such a connection anymore, but once upon a time it was relevant;
bathroom with vertical outlet– installation is carried out strictly at right angles to the wall;
bathroom with horizontal outlet– the installation angle is equivalent to 40º, installation is carried out in the wall.

If the outlet of the bathroom does not suit the outlet of the sewage system, it is necessary to either purchase a different model of the product, or still use flexible adapter pipes.

Thus, installing a toilet with your own hands should not cause you serious problems. You can easily implement it, guided by certain rules, following the steps of the step-by-step instructions and taking into account the specifics plumbing installation. This will cost you much less than calling professionals to your home.

In the next article we will tell.