How to decorate a closet with your own hands. How to update or paint an old wardrobe or wardrobe: do-it-yourself restoration options. Materials and tools

" When it was ordered, budget options There were only two fillings: chipboard and mirror. I chose the mirror for reasons visual expansion space (the room is elongated, and the closet is located on the long side). However, it turned out to be not very successful. Therefore, I came to the need to decorate the wardrobe with my own hands. I present a detailed master class on decorating a wardrobe.

I thought for a long time about how and with what. I wanted it to be cute, not too long, expensive, and durable. In the end, I settled on a simple imitation of stained glass using special stained glass contours and paints. The colors are bright and do not fade over time (sometimes I paint bottles as a hobby, so some practical experience available), quite durable.

Marking the drawing

I didn’t want to be left without a mirror in my closet. Therefore, it was decided to leave three mirror ovals: one on each door. A large one is in the center, and two smaller ones are on the side doors, more for composition than for practical reasons. And decorate the remaining space with a pattern.

As a motive for a stained glass window, this blank was found on the Internet (there are many of them on the websites of companies engaged in the manufacture of sliding wardrobes). And I began to think about how best to transfer it to the mirror. It was clear what. A permanent marker draws beautifully on mirror and glass surfaces.

But I had to think about how exactly to transfer the decor of the wardrobe with my own hands. Compositionally, the drawing was more or less suitable (empty fragments are approximately where I wanted to leave the mirror). However, if I simply overlay my ovals on the picture, a significant part of the drawing will be covered, which, of course, I did not want. Therefore, I decided not to get fancy with transferring “by squares”, stencils and so on, but simply redraw it “by eye”, so that the flowers were located around the mirrors.

But first the ovals themselves had to be applied. It was assumed that they would be located in the center. Therefore, using a marker, I marked the middle axes on each door (I washed the door first). However, it turned out that since the wardrobe is installed next to the bed, visually the ovals located in the middle look “fallen” down. Therefore, the horizontal axis was shifted upward by approximately 15 cm.

Next, I cut out oval templates from old newspapers, applied them to the doors, secured them in fragments with masking tape, and outlined them. Then I drew the drawing. By the way, unsuccessful lines of a permanent marker can be erased with alcohol or something containing alcohol.
And there were an indecent number of unsuccessful lines, but in the end I managed to create a drawing that, in my opinion, was attractive.

DIY wardrobe decor - compartment. Drawing contours

All markings were carried out on the doors installed in the closet (By the way, how to make a sliding wardrobe yourself, read, and the processes are described in detail self-assembly and installation of wardrobe doors). Then wash the door again (they gather dust terribly quickly) using glass cleaner. Apparently it also contains alcohol, so you need to act as quickly as possible: as soon as you apply it, you immediately remove it with a rag. And even so, the drawing is partially erased, small gaps appear in the lines.

I remove (using the “husband” tool) the door and lay it on the floor. This way it will be more convenient to work with it in the future, and the stained glass paints that will be used to decorate the wardrobe with your own hands will be distributed evenly in the outline. (The photo shows the door that was completed last, so in the reflection you can see the finished door installed in the closet).

I outline the marker lines with a black outline. True, “circling” is the wrong way to say it. It is better to keep the outline hanging slightly above the surface of the mirror. This way the “sausage” squeezed out of the tube is more controllable, and it’s easy to place it where it’s needed. If everyone missed, you can carefully move the uncured outline with a toothpick.

The surface of the mirror is large, so when the tracing is finished, the edge where the work began is already dry. This means that I wash off the remains of the marker, removed from under the outline, with alcohol and begin decorating with a gold outline.

I use it to divide the background space into separate “pieces of glass”. I apply it without markings, “as if it fell into my soul.” I try to keep the lines light and even, without trembling. I create the drawing chaotically. I really wanted to make some kind of imitation bright colors against the backdrop of a forest or jungle, so in some places you can see the outlines of branches, vines, and leaves.

Having finished, I leave it until completely dry.

DIY wardrobe decor - compartment. Painting a stained glass window

Clean the door again. This time I wipe the inside of the contours with alcohol to remove dust (where does it come from!) and degrease the surface for paint. First I wipe the main drawing, fill it in, then the background. I mentally divide the background of each door into four parts: I paint one part, then wash the next.

I start filling the contours with paint from the main drawing. To make it look more contrasting to the background, I chose cool shades for the flowers and leaves, and warm golden ocher shades for the background.

I start with flowers. As planned, the flowers should be opaque in order to make them stand out from the background as much as possible. For this, white stained glass paint is used. When you add it to any other, you get something like an opaque colored enamel. In order not to miss a single fragment, I first apply a thin layer of white paint inside the outline. Then I add raspberry and white in different proportions. I level it with a brush and mix it so as to create a semblance of volume and imitate the veins on the petals.

I would like to draw your attention to one point: for this stained glass window I used water-based and organic basis. This probably shouldn’t be done, but I had no choice: the store simply didn’t have the right amount of paint with the same base.

In stained glass paints, different colors can be mixed. But!!! Under no circumstances should you combine paints with different bases. They react chemically with precipitation. In practice, a sort of cloudy “snot” is formed at the junction. Therefore, water - with water, organic - with organic. Within the contours, even next to each other, paints with different bases behave decently.

In general, water- and organic-based stained glass paints are distinguished by a number of properties, which, probably, can only be known by working with them. Organic paints dry a little more transparent, stick well to the glass, but if necessary, they can be easily removed by picking them up by the edge. Removed in one piece. When thickening, they are diluted with a special thinner. Their main disadvantage is the specific bad smell, which takes an extremely long time to weather, especially if the product is large. Water-based ones, when thickened, are diluted with water and have virtually no odor. But removing them, even with a strong desire, is not at all easy: even if you manage to pry a hard surface, a small piece breaks off. In general, it takes a lot more time and effort.

For aquatic and organic matter, use different brushes. But there’s no need for a separate one for each color. The colors mix almost everywhere, and even where you paint with one color, it’s not noticeable.

Even during application and, especially, mixing, a lot of air bubbles form in the paint. It doesn’t look too good, so if possible we push them out to the edges of the cells with a brush. Most of them burst, but some percentage remains. On small items like bottles, I usually pierce them with a needle. But in the volume of the closet... In general, I decided not to bother, let it be as it happens.

Then I fill in the leaves. They are small and, as planned, should be bright and rich. Therefore, I apply the paint directly from the tube, without a brush. Here again there are two colors: olive and emerald. Olive is very dark, so I use it to bring out the veins. I fill the remaining space with emerald.

I paint the branches brown and orange.

I move on to the background. A surprise awaited me here. As planned, the background is different shades yellow. In fact, it turned out that the paint called “light yellow” is really yellow, but just “yellow” is actually light orange. But, the paint has been bought, there is nothing to do... Well, to color scheme in general, it worked)

In addition to yellow and orange, I also bought white and colorless paints. Using the latter, a variety of shades will be created so that the background does not look monotonous yellow. I apply it with a brush and choose the color randomly.

Another “surprise” came when I finished the first door. Fragments where white and colored paint on an organic basis, they began to become cloudy as they dried, gradually turning into unsightly “chalky” stains.

It was evening, upset, I went to bed with thoughts of how tomorrow I would clean the muddy paint, paint it again, buy more material...

You can see the stains here

The door is dry and there are no stains

But by morning everything had dried, the paint became translucent and uniform, as intended).

I painted the remaining two doors in the same way.

However, with the third door everything was a little different. I didn't have enough contour with a wide nose for it. The store also ran out of it, so I had to buy a contour with a long and thin nose and simply cut it off to get a line of the required thickness. Unfortunately, the composition of the contours is also different. For fine lines, the contour is more fluid and flexible. Therefore, it holds its shape worse. I don’t know how visible it is, but the outline is less prominent.

Once dry, the doors were installed in the closet. This is what it looks like now.

DIY wardrobe decor - compartment. Labor and cost

So, I calculate the time costs:

Preparatory stage (search for a sketch, purchase of materials) – 0.5 days
Marking and applying decor with a marker – approximately 1.5 days
Outlining and painting stained glass windows – about 6 days

So a total of 8 days. The pace surprised me; I expected that such a colossus (6 m2) would take much more time.

Now for material consumption and cost:

Outlines:
- Black — 7 pcs.
- Gold – 6 pcs.
Organic based paint
- Yellow – 12 pcs.
- Orange — 1 pc.
- White – 4 pcs.
- Antique white – 5 pcs.
- Thinner - 1 pc.
Water based paint
- yellow - 7 pcs
- White — 1 piece
- Colorless – 4 pcs.
- Korchnevaya — 2 pcs.
- Scarlet – 1 piece
- Emerald – 1 piece
- Olive – 1 piece

Total: (7+6)*90 + (12+1+4+5+1)*65 + (7+1+4+2+1+1+1)*55 = 3600 rubles.

Compared to even a simple sandblasting pattern, the difference is approximately an order of magnitude.

DIY wardrobe decor - compartment. Conclusion

Despite the noticeable handicraft and “homespun” nature of the resulting stained glass window, in my opinion, this is exactly the element that my bedroom was missing to make it homely and cozy. The mirror at the base reflects light, illuminating the image from the inside, which makes it similar in saturation and brightness to real stained glass. A beautiful carved yellow-orange glow where the cabinet is adjacent to the wall enlivened the surface and gave it some unusualness. In general, the decor of a wardrobe made with my own hands evokes only positive emotions in me, and I wish the same for you.)

Currently, in stores you can find an endless number of all kinds of cabinets, chests of drawers, racks, hanging shelves, multifunctional drawers for clothes and personal items. But if you decide not to plunge into a long search, but to follow the thread of your imagination, then with the help of the following master classes you will learn how to update old wardrobe with your own hands beyond recognition.

After reading the article, you should not have any questions about how to paint varnished, chipboard or wooden cabinet, what paint to paint and make it suit your own style, and you will also learn some of the intricacies of this work.

Painting- This is the most reliable and capital method.
Wallpaper, self-adhesive film and decoupage- when choosing this method, remember that it is not durable!
Covering with fabric and decorating with carnations - also

Most best method To update any chipboard or wooden cabinet, of course, painting is not as expensive as it seems at first glance and is quite simple to do.

Painting a wooden cabinet made of chipboard

Paint selection

For processing wood and chipboard you can use alkyd or acrylic,
spray or regular wood paint,
for deeper coloring - varnishes, but most often preference is given acrylic paint m.

They are non-toxic and dry when room temperature, which in our case and when painting home furniture very convenient, stores offer a wide variety of them, you can colorful b, i.e. dilute with white paint, achieving desired color. In addition, there is a choice of acrylic paints with a mother-of-pearl effect or, for example, metallic.

Aerosol acrylic paint adheres better to surfaces than regular paint, creating a smooth, evenly colored texture. It is easy to work with both a professional and a beginner.

Varnishes are used mainly to give furniture an antique look., but well-groomed, noble and rich. In this case, the surface is painted several times after each layer has completely dried.

Varnishes are also necessary to fix the color and protect the surface from scratches and minor damage.

You will need varnish even if you decide to paint the chest of drawers in an antique or Provence style.

Selecting Brushes and Rollers

After choosing the paint you should special attention pay attention to brushes and rollers. Why shouldn't you save on painting supplies if you decide to update your chest of drawers yourself?

At the right technology processing old surface and good painting of the cabinet will be maintain its appearance for several years.

If you use bad brushes, you will not protect freshly painted furniture from sticking hairs or lint, which is almost impossible to fix unnoticed.

If you have a task to paint a large smooth surface, then for work Both a roller and aerosols will do.

ATTENTION: During work, do not leave the brushes dry, it is better to put them in a jar of water, otherwise they will quickly become unusable

Technologies and painting methods

Don't forget about other important painting tools and materials, such as sandpaper or sander, primer, putty, solvent and varnish. All this is necessary to comply with the correct dyeing technology.

Equipment:

Sandpaper of different types grain size is needed for preliminary rubbing of the old paint layer and sanding the surface.

Primer will be needed for sealing small cracks on the surface of wood or chipboard.

Putty (you can use car putty) and a putty knife will come in handy if there are deep scratches or chips.

Solvent or white spirit is needed to degrease the surface before painting for better impregnation.

The varnish performs a protective function and gives the furniture shine.

In general, preparing a cabinet for painting consists of: 5 short but very important stages.

To begin with, carefully remove old paint and use medium-grain sandpaper(or machines) level the working surface.

All dust must be brushed off, but without using wet rags or sponges etc. Otherwise old paint It will only be absorbed better, but the new one will not fit well.

After processing with the finest grain degrease with white spirit(acetone) and apply a primer layer for better adhesion to the paint.

If there are large chips, then first fill them with putty and rub them until smooth. Afterwards we apply one or two layers of primer.

When you know all the stages of preparation, it’s time to move on to the main stage and figure out how to paint a wooden chest of drawers and chipboard.

Master class No. 1. Stencil painting

Everything is mixed in this closet - romanticism, Chinese motifs, and even something from Gzhel. Everyone sees something different in him. Let's learn painting techniques.

Materials and tools

Prepared cabinet;

white paint;

solvent;

blue spray paint;

gold paint;

stencil;

brushes

Step by step guide

Step 1.

We remove all fittings, locks, handles, etc. from the cabinet. Using familiar technology, we will prepare a wooden cabinet for painting.

On work surface(on the floor) spread newspapers or big piece polyethylene so as not to damage other furniture.

Step 2.

Take white enamel and solvent. In a small plastic jar, dilute paint and solvent according to the instructions on the paint can.

The paint consumption is also written on the can, it is better to use this information and dilute it immediately required quantity. If you mix too little paint, you may end up with a different color the second time.

Making the background of the picture - apply the first coat of paint. Leave until completely dry.

Step 3.

If the color is saturated and you like it, then take the stencil and place it on the cabinet. Carefully glue on the front side and side walls so that there are no bubbles.

Shake the spray paint well and spray it over the stencil. For an even color, one layer of blue paint will be enough, so we do everything the first time.

Step 4.

While the blue paint dries, painting the fittings, taken from the cabinet, in gold leaf. After the parts have dried, screw them into place.

We remove the stencil from the cabinet and place it in the most visible place in the room - after all, it now deserves special attention!

You can decorate the closet with a stencil, for example, with flowers.

Master class No. 2. Updating a chipboard cabinet

This cabinet looked very cheap since it was made from chipboard. But we updated it with a beautiful ornament for a children’s room, now it can fit into even a high-tech or modern interior.

Materials and tools

Prepared cabinet;

white paint;

pencil;

building level;

sponge brush;

masking tape;

additionally: protective paint (enamel).

Decoration process

Step 1.

Let's prepare the furniture by cleaning surfaces from roughness, chips, cracks using putty and primer.

After use special means need to give allow surfaces to dry completely.

Take masking tape and stick it on the front side of the chest of drawers according to your individual idea.

We make combinations of triangles along the top and bottom edges, rhombuses in the middle, rectangles at the top and bottom. We cut off the strips and make shapes from them, as shown in the photo.

We make a rhombus by cutting strips of equal length and placing them perpendicular to each other.

To make rectangles, First, stick the tape evenly, parallel to the cut of the chest of drawers, and use a building level and a pencil to mark equal intervals. Cut through one.

TIP: Watch the placement relative to the fittings (handles, locks) and the gaps between the drawers - it’s better to be symmetrical than even.

Step 2.

Step 5.

The final stage is the application of protective enamel. It will extend the life of the chipboard cabinet and protect against small mechanical influences such as moisture and dust.

And now the stylish wardrobe is ready for active use!

Color options can also be the same as in the photo below.

Master class No. 3. Painting a polished cabinet

Some people can’t believe that you can make such a piece of candy from an old polished cabinet. vintage style, and without loss of functionality. And then we'll tell you how to do it.

Materials and tools.

Old polished cabinet;

vintage paint (regular acrylic matte);

white spirit or acetone;

brushes;

sandpaper or sanding machine;

gold handles for drawers.

Painting process

Step 1.

Despite the fact that we are creating a vintage effect, there is no real need for the dresser to look shabby. Therefore, we carefully prepare it for painting.

To do this, we remove all the old fittings and grinder We treat the entire surface of the chest of drawers. First we use coarse sandpaper, then fine-grained sandpaper.

It is not necessary to putty and prime, except for serious chips on the surface. Degrease the surface with white spirit or acetone and let it dry.

TIP: Since the paint will be applied in several layers, it is very important that it is well absorbed into the wood.

Step 2.

Cover with the first layer of paint. Very thin, you don’t have to try too hard and leave unpainted areas.

Rub over the first layer of fine-grained sandpaper. We clean off dust, but do not use wet rags, sponges, etc. in the process. Wash only with a dry cotton lint-free cloth.

Next, apply a second layer of paint, also rubbing it in. Let it dry and rub it in a little again.

We repeat this until the color becomes even, but a little rough. For this we used matte paint with a vintage effect. After a few days, it will be completely absorbed and dry and begin to turn yellow (pay attention to the instructions on the can so that you don’t have to repaint everything again later). To avoid this, you can try this coloring method on a small and inconspicuous area. Proceed with full coloring when you are satisfied with the result.

If you bought new handles, check if they match your color and screw them into place. Golden brass carved handles with patterns match the white aged chest of drawers.

Check the chest of drawers to see if it meets your requirements - it is still comfortable, beautiful, and, paradoxically, modern. Vintage is in fashion now!

Wallpaper or film

When using film or any other paper covering to update your cabinet, you should remember that we use the cabinet every day. And usually such a coating does not last long, but it is very simple to implement.

Fabric covering

This is the most painstaking way to update a cabinet, when fabric is stretched over the entire plane. The method is quite outdated. But maybe someone will like it.

Spot painting for polished cafe

Spot painting is perfect for a polished cabinet. In this case, there is no need to remove the varnish and sand the surface. The technique is simple:

Drawing using a marker

The marker is painted with paint using dots. Details - here.

Closet Update Ideas

Even the most beloved cabinets become scuffed, scratched or faded over time. The paint peels off, the wood dries, and the varnish becomes cloudy. But what if we turn this from a disadvantage into a feature? You won't have to sadly say goodbye to your favorite furniture and spend money on new ones! And we are ready to help with interesting ideas and inspiration for new achievements!

1. Brushing

The easiest way to update an old cabinet is, oddly enough, by aging it. This type of furniture is especially good in luxurious classic interiors, Provence, loft and any other styles that tend to be retro.
To make scuffs look natural, choose the right places for them. Furniture gets worn down most quickly where it bears a load or is constantly touched: edges, corners, handles, tabletops, protruding relief.
Mechanical abrasions are created using brushing technology: the surface is treated with a hard metal brush, which removes paint and soft fibers. The technology is good for cabinets made of larch, pine, ash or oak.

2. Craquelure

Craquelure is the creation of a fine mesh of cracks on a surface using paint and a special varnish. It comes in two types: one-step - when the base or bottom layer directly peeks out from under the cracks of the paint; two-step - when under the craquelure there is another decorative coating or image.
In the simplest technology, the surface of the cabinet is first coated with a dark pigment, followed by colored or contrasting paint. And after drying, a craquelure varnish is applied, which provokes cracking. This option is suitable not only for wood, but also for cabinets made of any other materials.

3. Elegant scuff marks

If brushing is too rough for your taste, there are more elegant aging techniques. Pay attention to this one if your interior is designed in Provence, boho or shabby chic style.
First, colored paint of a rich or pastel shade is applied to the surface - but always noticeable. After drying, it is thickly rubbed with paraffin or wax, and then a second layer of light paint is applied.
The wax is removed with regular sandpaper, and the bottom layer appears under the light coating. Delicate aging looks especially good in milky, beige, cream, olive, lavender, linen, pistachio and soft pink bases.

4. Splashing

Radically transform old furniture can be normal decorative painting. Moreover, you don’t have to be able to draw to do this, because now abstraction, geometry and simplicity are in fashion.
A bright and creative accent in modern interior the cabinet will become artistically splattered, as if it had just come from a painter’s studio. You will only need brushes, paints, water and newspaper or oilcloth to cover your work area.
Choose the spraying technology that you like best: just shake the brush onto the surface, paint with a toothbrush or toothpick, knock small drops from a wide brush. Until the paint dries, the result can always be corrected, especially since negligence here is a trick, not a mistake. Finally, varnish the cabinet to preserve your efforts.

5. Glazing

Glazing is another one artistic technique, which boils down to the fact that the bottom layer of paint shines through the translucent top one. The result is complex iridescent shades that play interestingly in the light.
The advantage of technology is that you can use almost any paint: oil, acrylic, watercolor, even strong tea. Dilute the acrylic with water to the desired shade and consistency and apply it with a sponge or synthetic brush. Glazing does not imply a dense, uniform coating; in fact, it is just tinting.

6. Staining

Stain is a tinting liquid that allows you to change the shade of wood, but completely preserve its texture. Apply it strictly parallel to the fibers, and paint over it with several layers of varnish or pearlescent glaze coating.
Soft fibers absorb the coloring composition more strongly, and from dense fibers it is washed off naturally. If you want to make the texture even more expressive, repeat the process several times. In order not to miss the result, first try the stain on that part of the cabinet where it is not visible.

7. Decoupage

Simple and affordable technology with minimum quantity tools and consumables has won the love of decorators around the world. In fact, this is almost an applique, for which paper napkins with drawings or special blanks are suitable.
Thoroughly clean and level the base so that the surface is completely smooth. If you are decorating a metal or glass shelf, wash and degrease it.
If necessary, you can first paint the cabinet with acrylic paint, but then wait until it is completely dry. Then apply a weak solution of PVA with water to the surface and place a top layer of patterned napkins on it. The whole thing is again coated with diluted PVA, and after drying, with a transparent varnish for smoothness and durability.

8. Patination

Patina is a characteristic antique coating that occurs when bronze or copper oxidizes. Its natural color is greenish-brown, but other options are used in decoration, including colored ones.
Apply bitumen varnish to the base and immediately wipe the surface so that it remains only in relief and recesses. And on top, coat the cabinet with a special shellac varnish, which at the same time provides resistance to scratches and damage.
Shellac varnish itself gives the surface a tone of old copper or gold. At the same time, it emphasizes the wood texture well, which is why it is often used for patination. wooden furniture on one's own.

Acrylic patina is ordinary diluted acrylic paint of a suitable shade. It is spilled in the same way on the raised areas, and all excess is wiped off with a clean rag.
Wax patina is a separate composition that is rubbed over the surface, giving it a tint and a characteristic satin sheen.
Chemical patina looks the most natural, because it simply speeds up natural processes hundreds of times. Paint the cabinet with paint containing fine metal particles and apply a special oxidizing agent on top.

9. Etching

Etching is a more complex chemical process than staining, so it requires careful preparation and selection of reagents. But this technology is good for cabinets made of hardwood. This way you can give them a rich, deep shade and emphasize the texture.
The simplest home recipes use decoctions of leaves, bark, tea, coffee, and potassium permanganate. But more effective are chemical components that can be purchased immediately with instructions for application and an indication of the exposure time for different varieties wood

For example, 1% will help give oak a brown tint. copper sulfate, gray-lilac – 1% iron, and blue-black – 4-5% iron. You can paint a birch dark red with zinc sulfate, and greenish-yellow with potassium chromium.
Calcium chloride gives the coffee shade to light rocks, and Epsom salt gives the unusual purple color. And different combinations of these reagents create olive, lilac and golden tones.

10. Dry brush

Dry brushing is another technique that decorators learned from painters for elegantly distressing old cabinets. classic interiors. Take a little paint onto a flat synthetic brush, wipe off the excess on a rag or paper, and then brush over the base.
Do not press too hard, but go lightly around corners, joints and protruding parts. The brush hairs do not leave continuous lines, and the result is not a dense coating, but as if scratched.

11. Epoxy resin

Epoxy resin dries quickly in the open air and creates a beautiful translucent coating. By itself, it gives a golden or amber tint or creates the effect of glass or ice.
Deep cracks or noticeable defects on the surface of the cabinet can be filled with colored sand, small shells or any other decorations - and filled with resin on top. And small cracks will literally come to life if you add luminescent powder to the epoxy.

12. Self-adhesive film

If you don’t want to bother with paint, varnish and resin, there is an even simpler solution - decorative film. The stores offer many collections, from imitations of other materials to photo printing, textured, luminous and mirror coatings.
First, mark the film and cut it, and then glue it like tape, slowly and carefully pressing it to the base and expelling the bubbles. The main nuance– carefully level the surface of the cabinet in advance, otherwise the film will highlight all the defects.

13. Stencils

If you still want to paint a closet, but lack the skills, use stencils. You can print and cut them yourself or purchase them ready-made at an art store.
Surface preparation is the same as for any other painting: stripping, sanding, base coat. Apply light markings on top with a pencil so that the drawing does not move while working. Secure the stencil to the surface with masking tape to prevent it from fidgeting - and start painting.
If you want, take paint in a can, but then take care of additional surface protection. Instead of stencils, you can use old tulle, unnecessary openwork fabric and any other suitable materials.

14. Upholstery

An interesting and unusual decoration for an old cabinet is upholstery with a different material. But this should be the most ordinary cabinet of a simple shape and without relief decoration. Instead of stained fabric that cannot be removed, use dermantin, leatherette and their variations for upholstery.
Regular glue is suitable for attaching the canvas - the main thing is that there are no bruises or air bubbles. Decorate the edges, corners, ends and other areas with decorative nails and rivets. This type of finishing will take a lot of time, but it will fit luxuriously into English interiors or loft.

DIY old cabinet decor - photo ideas

These are not all the options that you can easily implement with your own hands. After all, an old cabinet has nothing left to lose, so don't limit your imagination. And we offer a few more ideas for this!

A sliding wardrobe is a universal solution for storing various household utensils. Despite the extraordinary capacity and versatility, appearance facades are often unremarkable: trivial cladding made of MDF, plastic, mirror, glass or wood. Do-it-yourself cabinet decor will help correct the situation. Today there are many techniques for decorating furniture. We suggest considering only the most popular of them.

7 extraordinary ideas for wardrobe fronts

Photo printing. Large format photo printing technology is widely used in interior design. Thanks to a special UV printer, it is possible to apply an original photo drawing to any surface, which will add an elegant touch to the decor. In view of this, this technique is increasingly used to decorate compartment doors.

The subject of the drawings is limited only by the imagination of the owners: from classic images of castles to mountain landscapes, from abstract paintings to children's fairy-tale illustrations. In addition, a photograph from a personal archive may appear on the surface of the facade. Whatever you say, the uniqueness of the design idea is obvious!

Colored and stained glass film. Door decor with film is the simplest, least expensive and effective way add presentability to the closet. In addition to its decorative function, this film protects the surface of facades from mechanical damage, and the ease of installation/disassembly (self-adhesive base) allows you to regularly change the surroundings.

Stained glass films are at the peak of popularity today, thanks to the complete imitation of stained glass technology. To produce such a film, sheet glass is used ( different colors and transparency), on which an appliqué and edging of lead tape is applied. In order to emphasize the elegance of the design, the applique is complemented with beveled elements. As a result, it is quite difficult to distinguish stained glass from imitation with an unprofessional eye.

Airbrush. Previously, airbrushing techniques were used only for car tuning. Today it is successfully used to decorate wardrobes. This technique involves applying a pattern of any complexity to the surface using a special tool - an airbrush.

Mosaic laying. Creating mosaic images on furniture facades- perhaps the most difficult decoration technique. Large and small ones are used for laying ornaments. glass elements different shapes(often correct geometric shape) and different colors. The result of painstaking work is an original, captivating façade that creates a solemn atmosphere in the room.

Matting or sandblasting cabinet doors. This decoration option is only suitable for glass and mirror facades. It involves removing the top layer of coating underneath high pressure through quartz sand. Depending on the degree of pressure, sand makes it possible to obtain a matte pattern with two or several levels. The multi-level artistic image fits perfectly into the interior, thanks to its natural relief and volume.

If the above option requires the involvement of a specialist, then frosting the glass with a special paste can be done independently. For decoration mirror door coupe you will need a stencil and a rubber spatula. The stencil must be applied to the surface and the paste applied to it using a spatula. The paste contains special substances that interact with the composition of the glass/mirror and knock out silicon from its top layer. The remaining mixture is washed off with water, forming a matte, velvety and smooth surface of the image.