We make a jointer with our own hands in manual and electromechanical versions. Making a jointer from an electric plane at home How to make a jointer

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For performing various carpentry and carpentry work always needed various instruments. Every craftsman, and even those who like to “tinker” with wood, should have various chisels, knives, saws, planes and other devices on hand.

At the same time, very often true professionals prefer a tool made by hand or to order. In this case, the work will definitely be done efficiently and with minimal costs strength

How, for example, can you make a jointer with your own hands? What is needed for this and what are the stages of completing such a task?

What is a jointer and why do you need it?

Initially, you should understand for what purposes you need to use a jointer. It will depend on this general concepts to create it with your own hands. This tool is simply necessary when finishing large wooden pieces.

The main difference between a hand jointer and a planer is its larger size.

The design of the jointer is very similar to the design of a universal plane. The main difference, along with the larger size, is the installation of a double knife. It is fixed using a special plug, which is located in the front part of the structure. For ease of operation, the plane is equipped with a handle located behind the knife.

For leveling, a jointer is passed over the surface of a wooden workpiece. In this case, at the beginning of the work, the chips will turn out torn. But there's nothing wrong with that. Gradually the chips will become smooth and continuous. This is what will mean that the workpiece has reached the desired levelness.

Very often, for further work, specialists change the jointer to a semi-jointer. Its device is no different from its older brother. The main difference is the smaller size. This allows you to process the surface better.

But modern craftsmen rarely use a simple jointer. More convenient to use electric version, mounted in the form of a machine. This device allows you to significantly speed up the processing of wooden parts. At the same time, quality is not lost, but rather improved.

The difference between a jointer and a simple jointer or planer is the way it is used. In this case, the installation itself remains in place, and the master moves the workpiece. When passing along a moving shaft with knives, a layer of 1-2 millimeters is removed from the wooden part. As a result, the workpiece is obtained with a perfectly flat surface.

Making a manual version of the jointer

If you like to do everything with your own hands, including processing wooden workpieces with a hand jointer, then you can easily make this tool yourself. Prepare first wooden block. Its dimensions must match the future jointer. The block must be taken from hard rocks wood, such as larch or oak. The stronger the workpiece, the longer your plane will last.

During production, you should take into account some recommendations on the size of the future tool. Experts recommend using the following parameters:

  • Most often, the length of the jointer is 60-70 centimeters. Of course, you choose this option yourself, everything will depend on which tool is more convenient for you to use;
  • for the workpiece, take a beam with the length you need, with a width of 76 millimeters, and a height of 70 millimeters;
  • the size of the knife should be 200 by 65 millimeters;
  • To make the handle comfortable, its height is made at least 10 centimeters.

Using a chisel, a through square hole is punched in the block. At the same time, his sides should be located at an angle of 45 degrees. The knife will be inserted into this hole. The block itself must have a perfectly flat bottom surface. After all, it is along it that the future workpiece will be leveled.

When choosing a knife for a jointer, you should pay attention to rectangular and durable models. In many specialized stores you can find a large assortment of similar products. The knife is inserted and fixed in the opening made.

Next, a thin wood plate(which will act as a wedge). Next, the shock plug should be installed. To do this, select a place in the middle between the edge of the hole and the front edge of the jointer itself. At this point, the main working part is ready for use.

But it will be difficult to work with such a tool. For convenience, it is necessary to attach a handle. Its shape should ideally fit your hand, so it is made individually. To make a handle, you can use multilayer plywood.

For even greater ease of use of your new jointer, you can optionally install a second handle. Also, some models are equipped with two blades. But this will depend on your personal preferences. The most important thing is that before work, the knife blade does not protrude beyond the underside of the tool by more than one millimeter.

Electric planer

Making a homemade jointer is not a difficult task. Anyone can do this kind of work, especially if they love working with wood. And the presence of such equipment in the workshop will significantly expand the capabilities of the master and make his work easier.

In order to make a jointing machine, you first need to prepare the required materials and tools. To work you will need:

  • hacksaw for cutting blanks;
  • hammer;
  • carpenter's chisel;
  • wooden blocks made of durable material. The best option there will be parts made of larch or oak;
  • plywood, preferably multilayer;
  • bolts with nuts.

You can easily find all these materials and tools in your workshop. But the most important and main device that you will need to create a jointer with your own hands is an electric plane. He is the one who will do all the work.

An old electric planer is quite suitable for making a jointer.

At the same time, you should not run to the store for a new tool; a device that has already been used is quite suitable for a jointing machine.

Very often, modern electric planers are made with a plastic body. Such tools are cheaper and more convenient to use. But such a body after long-term use begins to crack and become loose. It is already inconvenient to use such tools in work, but for a jointing machine it is quite suitable.

The main thing is that the shaft with knives and the electric motor are in good working order. We only need to turn the old electric planer upside down and secure it in place.

In this video you will clearly see how to make a small jointer out of plywood using an old electric plane.

Video: Homemade jointer from an electric planer

There are some other requirements for an electric planer that will help make your task much easier.

First of all, you should take a closer look at the design itself. Modern manufacturers They produce some models that are already adapted for our purposes. If you have this option, then your jointing machine will be the most productive.

In addition, it is worth paying attention to the planing width. As a rule, for most modern electric planers it is 82 millimeters. This width is quite small for a full-fledged jointing machine.

The best option would be to use electric planer with a planing width of 100 or even 110 millimeters. In this case, you can process workpieces 10 centimeters wide at a time.

But quite often there is a need to process wider boards. In this case, each workpiece will have to be run through the jointer several times. This can significantly reduce your productivity. Many craftsmen use a machine with a built-in special shaft instead of an electric planer.

Stationary jointer

This version of the jointing device is quite powerful and productive, but is not without its drawbacks.

Firstly, the special shaft itself is a rather expensive part. Its cost can be up to half of the total cost of assembling a jointing machine.

Secondly, in addition to the shaft, you will have to purchase a fairly powerful electric motor, and also provide a mechanism for transmitting torque. All this will require certain knowledge and skills from you, and of course financial investments.

How to make a jointer yourself

The first step is to prepare a project for the future machine. It takes into account the dimensions of the existing old electric planer.

A drawing is made for it wooden box, and plywood sheets are adjusted to size. Calculations must be done carefully so that when creating the machine everything goes smoothly and the device itself works efficiently.

First of all, the body is made from wooden beams. It will look like a regular box without a bottom. Next, a sheet of plywood is nailed on top. A hole is made in it, the size corresponding to the dimensions of the electric planer used in the design.

Next, two more sheets of plywood are attached on both sides of the slot. In this case, their thickness should differ by one or two millimeters. The first sheet, the thin one, will serve as the feeding surface. The second, thick sheet of plywood, will be the receiving side. The workpiece is fed onto the rotating shaft of the electric planer from the thin side and comes out on the thicker side.

Next, it’s enough to fix the electric planer in its place and make a switch. Bolts and nuts are used for this. The switch can be used as a regular household switch. If you have the desire and opportunity, you can install a button. In this case, the switch must completely de-energize the jointing machine.

As a result, you will have a full-fledged electric jointer or jointer in your workshop. With its help, you can process large wooden workpieces faster and with less effort. Such a device will cost less than the factory version. But at the same time, it will do its job no worse than the purchased version. This means you will have more opportunities to make beautiful wooden products, which will decorate your home or generate income for the family.

In this video you will see interesting solution for the manufacture of a vertical jointer from an electric planer.

Video: Homemade jointer from a manual electric planer

Safety precautions when using a jointer

Health safety when carrying out any work is a very important activity. The use of a jointer was no exception. This device requires special attention.

  • First of all, do not start feeding the workpiece until the electric planer shaft reaches maximum quantity revolutions;
  • If during operation you need to clean the machine from accumulated chips, then first you need to stop it and turn off the power. Only after the shaft has completely stopped rotating can you begin to remove chips. The same applies to preventive lubrication or other similar work;
  • if you need to process a part with small dimensions (length up to 40 centimeters and width up to 5 centimeters), then this must be done using a special stop. It is fixedly mounted on the working table of the jointing machine;
  • it is best to equip the machine protective casing. When the workpiece moves forward, it will open, and when the material supply stops, it will close.

It is very important to ensure workplace good lighting. This requirement applies not only to carpentry, but also to all other types of work. You should not do anything “in the dark”; this will inevitably lead to injury. By following these simple precautions, you will only enjoy your work.

At home, you can make your own thicknesser or jointer from an electric planer. They will make it easier and faster to work with wooden blanks. Using homemade machines, it will be possible to plan and adjust the thickness of lumber, as well as perform surface finishing and some other operations. The simplest option is to use an electric plane, which can be attached to the machine bed upside down. For such models, conversion to thicknesser or jointer machines is provided for by their design. In other cases, you will need to make special fastenings for reliable fixation tool in working position.

A thickness planer is a woodworking equipment that is used to plan smooth planes of lumber until the desired thickness of the workpieces is achieved. In this case, only pre-prepared (coated) boards or beams are processed.

Preparation of materials and working tools

There are quite a lot of different options for creating structures that allow you to convert an electric planer into thicknessing equipment. Relatively simple to make at home homemade machine The following tools and materials will be required:

  • screwdriver with a set of bits;
  • carpenter's square or corner;
  • tape measure or simple ruler;
  • screwdrivers with different tips;
  • wrenches;
  • electric plane;
  • jigsaw or hand saw for wood;
  • plywood with a sheet thickness of 1.5 cm;
  • long screws with coarse threads (4 pieces);
  • bicycle chain and four drive sprockets for it;
  • wooden blocks (2.5 by 2.5 cm) and planks (1.5 × 1.5 cm);
  • nuts with M14 thread;
  • washers of suitable sizes;
  • screws 25 by 100 mm.

The electric planer will serve as the main mechanism created machine. The screws can be replaced with wood screws of similar sizes.

Manufacturing algorithm

Drawings and diagrams will help simplify the process of creating a thicknessing tool from an electric planer, but it is easier to do it from photographs. The equipment is manufactured in the following sequence.

The created structure is installed on a flat surface. To fix it to a workbench or table, you will need to use suitable fasteners.

The presence of a drive mechanism makes it possible to set the required thickness of the workpieces being processed.

When assembling the machine with your own hands, you should fix the cable supplying the power tool so that it does not interfere with operation, and the wire is not accidentally damaged. To securely fix the electric planer itself on the work site, it is recommended to use bolts and nuts.

Measuring ruler is a must structural element created homemade surface planer. With its help, the thickness of the lumber that is planned to be processed is determined. A piece of plastic, wooden or metal ruler 8 cm long is suitable as a bar. You can also make a pointer arrow from similar materials.

Assembling a jointing machine based on a jigsaw

Jointer designed to remove existing unevenness from the surface of the wood. The work process is one-sided planing of lumber on a plane. You can also shoot under different angles chamfers. Thanks to processing on this equipment, beams or boards become smooth.

The design of the jointing unit is simpler than that of its thicknesser counterpart. This allows you to assemble the installation yourself using available materials.

The procedure for making a jointer

To make a planing machine for processing workpieces, do not large sizes, you will need an electric plane that can be fixed in a stationary position. The basis of the created unit can be fragment of plywood, MDF or chipboard. A piece measuring 50 by 35 cm is sufficient. The thickness of the sheet material used should be more than 2 cm.

Assemble the jointing tool by performing the steps in the following sequence:

  • cut out the base for the machine from the existing sheet material;
  • a stop for the workpiece is attached to it using self-tapping screws or screws at an angle strictly of ninety degrees (a square is used to set it);

  • install ribs that will ensure rigidity of the stop;
  • An electric plane is attached to the base using M8 bolts and nuts.

Before fixing the stop, a hole is cut out in it for the pipe and for cooling the electric motor of the tool.

If it is necessary to plan large workpieces, then it is enough to increase the size of the created unit. This will result in a design as in the photographs below.

In addition to the considered option from an electric planer, jointing equipment can be assembled in another design. The practical implementation of such structures depends on the available home handyman materials at hand and creativity. How to make homemade jointing units of other designs is shown in the following videos:

Making a stand for an electric planer

When working with an electric planer constantly, it is recommended to have a special stand that is suitable for storing it and installing the tool on it immediately after turning it off.

The use of such a device is especially important when working with powerful, heavy electric planes.

The need for a special stand is due to the fact that the metal drum with blades does not stop immediately after disconnecting the supply voltage from the instrument’s electric motor, but after a while (about 6 seconds). Throughout this period he was still moves by inertia. The inertial duration of rotation itself depends on the massiveness of the drum and the power of the equipment used. At the same time, you cannot place a power tool with the sole on a table or workbench, because you can not only damage their surfaces, but also get injured.

To avoid holding the instrument in your hands the whole time the drum stops, you need to use a stand special design. The main element is a groove approximately 8 cm wide and 0.6 cm deep. It is necessary for the drum to rotate freely until it stops completely. The accuracy of the position of an electric plane placed on a stand (when the blades are above the cut groove) is ensured by the presence of a front stop made of a strip.

The width of the groove and the distance from its front edge to the stop are determined by the dimensions of the power tool model used in the work.

Required tools and materials

To make a stand yourself, you will need the following tools:

  • an electric jigsaw equipped with a file for cutting out shapes;
  • screwdriver with a set of bits;
  • drill with metal drills 3 and 4 mm in diameter;
  • awl;
  • hand saw for wood with fine teeth;
  • ruler or tape measure;
  • square;
  • pencil or marker;
  • spherical wood cutter;
  • sandpaper;
  • chisel (enough with a 3-4 centimeter tip width).

To create the structure you will need the following materials:

  • a piece of board up to 1 m long, 20 mm thick and 140 mm wide;
  • wood screws – 2 pieces 4 by 45 mm;
  • wooden plank 30 mm wide, 20 mm thick, and 140 mm long;
  • 4 self-tapping screws with large heads 4 by 15 mm.

Creation sequence

When making a stand for an electric plane, the following algorithm is used:

  1. Cut a 50 cm long fragment from the board with a saw or jigsaw.
  2. According to the diagram given above, mark the plank with the board.
  3. Drill holes for screws (according to the marks made at the required points) for fixing the stop.
  4. Try on the model of the electric plane being used to the prepared workpiece of the base of the stand, noting the future placement of the groove based on the location of the tool drum.
  5. According to the markings, cut a groove with a file, making it approximately 4 cm larger, how this parameter at the drum slot. Notches are made along the edges and in the center.
  6. Use a chisel to remove wood from the groove and clean it.
  7. Use a jigsaw to saw off the excess from the workpiece.
  8. The front stop is secured with screws. 4 self-tapping screws are screwed along the edges, which will serve as the “legs” of the stand.
  9. The made stand is sanded with sandpaper to remove roughness.

The position of the stand is adjusted using self-tapping screws.

Having finished the work, you should make sure that the groove is made of the required width and depth: to do this, simply place the power tool on top of the stand and look from the side at the location of the drum. If necessary, you will need to deepen or widen the groove.

After turning off (while the drum is still rotating), the instrument is placed in the following way:

  • First, the front edge of the plane sole is supported;
  • Only then lower the power tool onto the stand.

No need to make a stand special costs time, labor and cash. But this device makes the job easier.

Thicknessers and jointers made independently from an electric planer are much cheaper than their factory counterparts, but they functionality inferior to branded equipment. However, they are quite sufficient to perform the basic operations for which these devices are intended. The practical use of homemade machines significantly speeds up wood processing, improves its accuracy and quality compared to the manual use of an electric planer.

Wood processing is often carried out by planing. Planing is a process with linear feeding of wood into the cutting zone, when the cutting plane, cutting surface and machined surface coincide. The planing machine has a shaft with knives that are mounted on a bed and moves around its axis. In this case, the workpiece makes a reciprocating movement. The jointing machine is very popular. A similar woodworking machine has been used at home for the past few years. Industrial models of such equipment are quite expensive, but you can also make a homemade jointer, which can also be used in wood processing.

Main nodes

Before you make a homemade jointer, you need to create drawings and understand the main elements that will be included in the diagram. Typically, a planing machine consists of the following main elements:

  1. beds;
  2. shaft with a knife;
  3. roller;
  4. electric motor from which rotation is supplied;
  5. several tables;
  6. stubborn skate.

The created drawing of a homemade jointer must contain information about the distance at which the electric motor with a roller and the shaft with knives are installed. The circuit determines how much the number of output rotations will be reduced and the power increased.

Manufacturing

We make the bed

The base for the machine is the bed. You can do it yourself, taking into account the following points:

  1. A metal profile is most suitable for creating a homemade jointer bed. It is lightweight and easy to dismantle.
  2. When creating a drawing, you should take into account that the structure must distribute the load and be stable.
  3. All elements must be firmly fixed. The mechanism installed on the bed, taking into account the material being processed, exerts a significant load.
  4. The elements are fastened together by welding or threaded connections. If you need a homemade jointer to be mobile and transported if necessary, then you need to choose a threaded connection. Welding is more reliable, but the structure will not be dismountable.

It is worth considering that the jointer must be installed level. Therefore, when connecting all elements, the level is strictly maintained.

Installation of the blade shaft

A homemade jointer, like the industrial version, has a drum with knives on the surface, which, when rotated, removes wood from the surface of the workpiece. The installation features of this element include:

  1. The drum is a mechanism that consists of two bearings, a blade and a central shaft to which rotation is transmitted.
  2. It is almost impossible to make blades with your own hands, since this requires turning and vertical milling machine.
  3. The drum is installed on the frame through bearings that have special fastenings.
  4. The mechanism with blades must be firmly attached to the base, since it is on this unit that the entire load is concentrated.
  5. A belt pulley must be installed at the end of the output shaft. At the same time, you can make it yourself. The profile of this element should be selected to match the belt profile.

Many drawings have a diagram in which the blades are mounted on an axis in the central part of the bed.

Table

The design has two tables, which are located on opposite sides of the drum. The complexity of their manufacture lies in the fact that the fastening mechanism must rigidly fix the surface. A do-it-yourself jointing machine must have smooth surface tables. This is due to the fact that the wood will be fed under strong pressure. If strong friction occurs between the table and the workpiece, processing becomes significantly more difficult.

In addition, one should take into account the fact that the table must be leveled relative to the drum with blades. In this case, the height must be adjusted, for which a special mechanism is installed. You can create a similar adjustment mechanism with your own hands by using a threaded connection.

One more important point we can say that the table should have a width and length according to what kind of workpieces will be served. You can also make a collapsible mechanism with your own hands.

Motor Drive Installation

Rotation cutting tool comes from an electric motor. When considering recommendations for installing an electric motor, consider the following points:

  1. It is quite important to choose the right type of electric motor and its power. A homemade planer can remove a fairly large layer of material in one pass. For household use An electric motor with a power of more than 1 kW is suitable. IN lately Models powered by 220 V are very popular.
  2. The machine will work correctly if the electric motor pulley is in the same plane as the drum pulley. This is quite difficult to do; you need to use measuring tools and a level.
  3. It is important to choose the correct pulley diameters. The difference in diameters makes it possible to reduce the number of output revolutions, which significantly increases traction force.
  4. The belt must be well tensioned. It is worth considering that they are produced according to established standards and have a certain length. Therefore, the distance between the pulleys is carefully measured.
  5. It is recommended to create a seat on a homemade jointer for the electric motor with the ability to adjust its position. This will allow the belt to be tensioned when its length has increased due to wear.

Particular attention is paid to the safety of a homemade jointer. The electric motor of the machine must be grounded not through the frame, since under certain circumstances electric shock may occur.

Hard stop

The last structural element, which you can also create with your own hands, is a hard stop. It is necessary to maintain the linear movement of the workpiece along the table. To do this, the craftsman also exerts a transverse force while feeding the workpiece in the longitudinal direction. The emphasis is installed on the far edge of the table; you can make it with your own hands from an ordinary piece of wood, for which it is enough to improve the quality of the surface for a minimum degree of roughness.

In conclusion, we note that a homemade jointer is made as safe as possible, since it has large number rotating elements. To do this, you can create a special casing from wood or plastic that will cover the electric motor, rollers and belt. You also need to pay attention to the fact that a homemade jointer must have a rigid installation.

A hand router is the most universal tool in a home carpentry workshop. Today, the video channel “Do it yourself carpentry” talked about one of the most useful ways applications hand cutter for your work, namely how to use it for jointing the edges of long workpieces. This is a story about how a master managed to turn a hand router into a homemade, fully functional jointing machine.

The result of his work is satisfactory. But it is not suitable for jointing edges due to the small base, and when working with thin boards it is not at all applicable, since it is strictly necessary to maintain the perpendicularity of the face of the board to planing knives almost impossible. In addition, with this method of edge planing, the pressure rollers wear out greatly.

I read on the Internet that for planing small workpieces, you can use a milling machine with a guide, the parallel working surfaces of which on opposite sides of the cutter - feed and take-up - are offset relative to each other by the planing depth. Moreover cutting edge The cutter is rigidly fixed at the same level with the receiving surface.

Therefore, the next tool in the process of creating homemade instrument For woodworking, after purchasing a thickness planer, I now have a powerful hand-held router, which is permanently installed in a work table with tabletop dimensions of 75x150 cm.

Upgrading a hand router to a machine

I deliberately cut the plate for the router not in the center of the table, but closer to the edge, so that it would be more convenient to process the edges of long and wide workpieces, including furniture panels. Used as a guide aluminum pipe 1.5 m long and 45x95 mm cross-section. Using a pipe as a guide has its advantages. But more on that a little later.

I made a groove in the pipe for the cutter. The work uses a straight groove cutter with a diameter of 12 mm with a cutting edge 51 mm long.

Let's install the router on the table. To do this, remove the plastic cover on the sole and the cutter overhang regulator. Remove the plate from the table, insert a screw for adjusting the cutter reach into the router and secure the plate to the sole with the screws. Let's install the router with the plate in the table and use the adjustment screws in the corners of the plate to slightly adjust its height so that it is flush with the table surface. Now install the cutter and replacement rings into the plate. Well, it's ready.

Preparing the guide

Let's prepare a guide. In our case, this part of the guide will serve as the supply surface, and the receiving surface will be the pad attached to the other side of the guide. The depth of planing will be determined by the thickness of the overlay. Strips of laminated paper are used as overlays. There are two of them - “thin” and “thick” with thicknesses of 0.5 mm and 1.5 mm, respectively. A thick strip is usually used for jointing unplaned edges purchased edged boards, and thin - for finishing chips of the workpiece after cutting it into circular saw. The strips are attached to the pipe using either double sided tape, or contact glue.

We degrease the surface of the pipe with white spirit and glue a strip of thin plastic to the pipe using aerosol contact glue. Now we’ll install the guide on the table and secure it with clamps at the ends. On one side, firmly, on the other, lightly press it so that it can be moved slightly relative to the cutter. Let's lower the cutter a little and, using a ruler, adjust the position of the guide so that the cutting edge of the cutter is flush with the pad. The procedure is very important, since the quality of the jointing depends on the quality of the guide position adjustment. Once the settings are complete, we will finally secure the guide with clamps.


Homemade jointing machine

Finally the time has come to talk about important advantage using the pipe as a guide. To ensure a clean edge surface, it is imperative to organize chip removal. For this we use construction vacuum cleaner. Here he fits perfectly. And through the guide pipe it is very convenient to remove chips. To do this, just insert the vacuum cleaner tube into the pipe slightly short of the cutter. That's about it. You can close the second hole in the pipe, in which case the effect will be even better.

Demonstration of a do-it-yourself jointing machine

For demonstration, let's take a board. The boards were planed planer. You can see for yourself what the quality of the edge is. The differences are about 1.5–2 mm. Let's sand the edge on our improvised jointer. The board is long, a little more than 3 m, so to support it on both sides of the table we use these homemade sawhorses.

Well, let's get started. Due to the deep depth of the edge unevenness, several passes will have to be made. Let's check what happened. Now perfectly flat and perpendicular to the surface. This cover is quite easy to remove. The glue that I used has one remarkable property: if you cover only one side of the parts to be joined with it and, without keeping it until completely dry, press it against the second part, the connection will be weak and the parts can then be easily separated. In our case this is very convenient. Now just wipe both surfaces with white spirit and they will be ready for reuse.

From such a pipe you can make an excellent universal parallel stop for both a milling and a circular machine. On one side you can install sliding pads and expand the groove for cutters large diameter, and use the other side as a guide for the circular saw. The video shows the entire process of making a homemade jointing machine converted from a router.

Household and industrial jointers are widely used for wood processing. Just like turning, circular and milling machines, jointers are mandatory equipment for carpentry shops. They are easy to use and reliable. Working with homemade jointers requires accuracy and some skills.

Scope of application and purpose

Industrial and home-made planing equipment is used for one-sided processing of flat surfaces of wood products. The main area of ​​application of the machines is furniture and woodworking production. Perpendicular surfaces are planed on them, chamfers are selected at the desired angle from the sides. Precision processing is important when assembling furniture; jointing equipment allows you to obtain a part of a given size. Planing mechanisms are often used at home in household workshops.

A jointing machine does not allow you to plan thickness to size, or make parts with parallel surfaces!

Classification of jointing machines

Depending on the number of planing devices, planing machines can be double-sided or single-sided. All planing devices are divided into categories according to the width of the planing surface, the length of the work table and the rotation speed of the knife shaft.

According to the processed width of the workpiece, mechanisms are distinguished:

  • by 40 cm;
  • by 50 - 52 cm;
  • at 60 - 63 cm.

Compact homemade units for home have a smaller processing width.

According to length work surface There are two groups of devices:

  • with a length of less than 250 cm;
  • with a length from 250 to 300 cm.

Larger workpieces can be processed on long tables. The quality of jointing also improves.

According to the frequency of torsion of the working shaft, machines are divided into two categories:

  • 4700 - 4800 rpm;
  • 5000 rpm.

Industrial motors can operate at speeds up to 12,000 rpm.

The device of a jointing machine

The design consists of the main elements:

  • work surface;
  • bed;
  • guide;
  • knife shaft;
  • circular fence.

The working surface consists of two plates: back and front. The level of the back plate coincides with the level top point cutter blades. The front level is set lower to the extent that the material is removed during processing. Typically the level difference is no more than 1.5 millimeters. This is enough to qualitatively process the surface of the part in two steps.

The plates are made of cast iron, and to make the table more stable, stiffening ribs are provided. The edges of the slabs are covered with steel plates that protect them from destruction. They are also chip breakers.

The knife shaft is located between two plates; cutters are attached to the shaft. For high-quality processing it is necessary to select the same cutters. As a rule, single-edged knives are used that can be sharpened. Double-edged cutters, when severely dull, are thrown away and replaced with new ones; they cannot be sharpened. As a rule, machines for household workshops are equipped with cutters made of tool high-speed steel. To work with dense types of wood or pressed boards, carbide-tipped cutters are used.

The guide is fixed with bolts in the provided holes. The ruler can move in the transverse direction depending on the size of the part.

A circular fence is installed on the front of the slab; it fits tightly to the guide due to the spring. The fence covers the knife shaft. The movement from the motor to the blade shaft is transmitted through a belt drive.

The optimal size of wooden parts for processing on a jointer is from 100 to 150 cm. Too long parts hang down and create inconvenience when working at home, while short ones are dangerous.

Setting and selecting mode

Before starting work, you need to calculate the thickness of the material being planed and the speed of movement of the workpiece (for equipment with an automatic feeder). The size of the layer depends on the initial state of the tree and is determined experimentally. To do this, several (no more than five) workpieces are processed. If untreated areas remain on the surface, the slab is lowered slightly. If the workpiece is warped by more than 2.5 mm, processing is carried out in two stages.

When the height of the slabs is set, measure the gap between the edge of the cutters and the jaws of the slabs, which should be from 2 to 3 millimeters. To determine the gap, a calibrated plate is used, which should be inserted into the gap easily, but without gaps. If the gap exceeds 3 mm, the part becomes covered with tears; if the gap is less than 2 mm, the cutter is destroyed.

In addition to setting the slabs in height, it is also necessary to determine the location of the guide. When processing wooden blocks, the gap between the ruler and the left edge of the knife shaft should be slightly larger than the width of the block. Gradually, the knives become dull and the guide moves to the right, involving other parts of the cutters in the work. The ruler moves across the tabletop on a rack and pinion device driven by a flywheel. To make a corner chamfer on an edge, the guide is installed using a template or square and secured with a screw.

Automatic feeders regulate the feeding of parts without stoppers, with low pressure. When processing edges, they are placed parallel to the ruler.

The correct settings of planing equipment are determined experimentally. Allowed errors are:

  • on the plane no more than 0.15 millimeters per meter;
  • perpendicularly - no more than 0.1 millimeter per 10 cm.

Working principle of a jointer

One person is enough to operate single-sided jointing equipment at home. He examines the condition of the workpiece and places it with its convex plane up on the front plate. With both hands he presses it against the ruler and points it at the cutters. Next, the already trimmed side is pressed with the left hand to the surface of the back plate. The master inspects the processed workpiece: if it is not planed enough, he sends it to the knives. It is advisable to avoid processing very warped workpieces, since too thick a layer of chips is removed. The remaining workpiece may turn out unacceptably thin.

When processing two perpendicular planes, the larger area is used first. Then it is applied to the guide and the second one is planed. The double-sided machine allows you to process both sides simultaneously.

  • If “burns” or “mossiness” appear on the surface during processing, it’s time to sharpen the cutters;
  • When working with parts shorter than 40 cm and narrower than 3 cm, they are held only with special pushers, and the parts complex shape templates;
  • If the planed plane is curved or has the shape of an impeller, you should check the level of the tabletop plates and the blade shaft.

DIY jointing machine

homemade machine - side view

Small frame desktop machine for home can be made from metal pipe rectangular section. More powerful homemade design will be obtained from a 40 mm corner. The width of the bed depends on the size of the knives and the planned planing width.

At one end, two guides are welded to the frame, the upper edges of which coincide with the surface of the frame. In the middle of the frame, a knife shaft mounted on a pair of ball bearings is attached to bolts screwed into pre-prepared holes.

The working surfaces for the desktop machine for the home are made of thick plywood laid on bars. And to regulate their level, homemade overhead bolted connections are provided. Four connections for each plate: a pair at the front and a pair at the rear. A vertical block with a hole is attached to each part of the tabletop from below. A long threaded pin is threaded through the block and the upper horizontal of the bed, with the help of which the position of the table top relative to the knife shaft is changed.

There is another option for homemade fastening of the work surface: there are grooves made in the frame (4 pcs.), in the movable tabletop there is the same number of holes into which threaded pin heads are inserted. By tightening the nuts and moving the pins in the grooves, they change the distance between the blade shaft and the edge of the table top.

The back plate is installed motionless and adjusted in height to the knife shaft. A board or chipboard of a suitable size can serve as a guide ruler.

When choosing a motor, you should proceed from the nature of use of the future machine. For household needs, a power of 750 W is sufficient, but a motor with a power of at least 1.5 kilowatts can cope with more serious tasks.

A few more options for homemade jointers:

Review of factory models

Model W0108 W0100
Engine 0.75 kW 220V 0.75 kW 220 V 2.2 kW, 220V 3.7 kW 380V
Cutting width 153 mm 153 mm 203 mm 400 mm
Maximum cutting depth 3 mm 3.2 mm 3.2 mm 3 mm
Number of knives of the cutting shaft 3 3 4 4
Cutting shaft diameter 61 mm 61 mm 78 mm 98 mm
Table length 1210 mm 1535 mm 1800 mm 2250 mm
Feed table length 700 mm 760 mm 880 mm 1090 mm
Reception table length 590 mm 755 mm 880 mm 1090 mm
Table width 255 mm 255 mm 330 mm 420 mm
Table height from floor 820 mm 850 mm 795 mm 820 mm
Stop dimensions 740 x 98 mm 889 x 124 mm 889 x 124 mm 1195 x 150 mm
Packaged sizes 1245x515x275 mm 1600x360x250 mm 1850x450x300 mm 2300x820x1025 mm
Gross weight 104 kg 135 kg 208 kg 570 kg
Price 52000 rub. RUB 68,000 112000 rub. RUB 229,000

W0108


W0100



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