Homemade jointer. Homemade jointer with your own hands. Required tools and materials

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For any work to be successful, you must have good equipment and tools. The same statement also applies to amateurs (or professionals) “tinkering” with wood. Masters in making furniture or other wooden products always trying to get various instruments and devices that can help them in their work.

For example, jointer. This device significantly increases the productivity and quality of woodworking. But not all fans can purchase it, because its price is quite high. How to get out of this difficult situation? There is a solution, and it’s quite simple - it’s to make a tabletop jointer with your own hands. And the manufacturing process itself will be discussed in the article.

Why do you need a jointer?

A woodworking shop can have a variety of machines, but the most commonly used (besides the circular saw, of course) are jointers and planers. These two types of units are slightly similar in their function, but differ in the method of use.

If you need to make a wooden blank in the form of a board, beam or shield, then it is better to use a thickness planer. Such a device, the main tool of which is the same knife, is capable of cutting source material into two parallel parts. In this case, both of them will be adjusted to certain sizes.

Thicknessing machines are available in both single-sided and double-sided types. In the first case, only one side of the workpiece is processed in one pass. Double-sided is more productive thickness planer. Here the output is an almost finished part.

Thicknessing machines have a shaft located above the table top. Moreover, the latter is made massive in order to smooth out large vibrations. In addition, the mechanism is equipped with a special casing, which is designed to dampen noise.

A jointer has a slightly different task. This device is used to create a smooth surface on the workpiece without significant roughness. This machine, like the previous version, is equipped with a shaft with knives, only in the jointer it is located under the tabletop.

The workpiece is fed onto the work surface from one side, and the output from the opposite side is already partially processed. This way, layer by layer, the desired evenness is achieved. After processing on a jointer, the part can be fed to a surface planer.

Basic Concepts

Such equipment will have numerous rotating parts. From this we can conclude that making such a machine with your own hands will not be so easy. Therefore, when starting to manufacture it, you need to calculate your strength. If you already have some similar experience, then you will cope with the task.
It’s worth noting right away that making a jointing machine entirely from parts self-made you won't succeed. Of course, perhaps in your “bins” there is a large assortment various devices, but this rarely happens. First of all, this concerns the shaft with knives and bearings. They will most likely have to be purchased or even ordered. But if everything you need is available, then you can safely start designing.

Some parts for the jointer: knife shaft, knife bearings, will have to be purchased or ordered

First of all, it’s worth understanding what kind of “package” you want to receive. There may be several options:

just a jointer. It will only perform one function;
set of jointer and circular saw. In this case, the functionality of the machine is doubled;
equipment capable of performing the role of a jointer, a circular saw, a grinding device, a sharpening and drilling machine. Such a device will be very useful for your workshop, but it will be difficult to do it yourself.

The most optimal and easiest option is to make a jointer and a circular saw on the same bed. Plus, both tools will rotate from the same electric motor. This feature will greatly facilitate our task.

Let's look at the main components of our future tabletop jointing machine. It will include:

Bed. This structure will support the entire machine and the equipment installed on it. To make it, it is best to use durable channels with a wall thickness of 8-10 millimeters. The bed can be made either collapsible or permanent. In the first case, all its components will be connected using bolts and nuts. If you do not need a portable machine, then the channels can be secured together by welding. This option will be more reliable. You can do without a bed if its role is played by a desktop;
Working tool. This is one of the most important components of the machine. The jointer knives and the saw itself - it is with their help that you will saw and process the boards. The knives are firmly attached to the shaft. They must be made of reliable and strong steel. Circular saw with pobedit tips. Such a tool will last you much longer;
The rotor is where all the tools will be attached. Without this part it is impossible to make a single machine, planer or circular saw. Finding a suitable rotor can be quite difficult, so it is better to order it from a professional turner, having previously provided it with drawings;
Desk. For a properly functioning machine, you need three surfaces. One will serve as a workbench for a circular saw, and the other two for a jointer. Material thickness for work surface must be at least five millimeters. Multilayer plywood or metal sheets are suitable for these purposes. In this case, it is advisable to make a slight difference in height for surfaces intended for jointing. The side along which the workpiece will be fed should be a couple of millimeters lower than the side to which the already processed side will go. This difference will make work easier and significantly reduce vibration.

Electric drive of the jointer

And of course, don’t forget about the drive. All mechanisms must rotate. This means that the drive will be the “heart” of the machine. Here are some recommendations for this design element:
- First of all, prepare the electric motor.

Electric motor for jointer

It is best to use a three-phase unit for these purposes. Of course, in this case you may have to redo the electrical network in your workshop, but it will be worth it. Three-phase electric motors operating at a voltage of 380 V are capable of developing more power. In addition, the torque of such devices is suitable for our purposes. The minimum power value should be 3 kW, but the maximum is at your discretion;

To transmit torque from the electric motor to the working shaft, it must be carried out using belts. A two-strand wedge-shaped shape is best suited for these purposes. Such belts are more reliable;
the electric motor itself can be mounted cantilever, directly inside the machine frame. This method will help solve the problem associated with belt tension. If you want to strengthen the engine more firmly, then you need to add a slide to the design, with the help of which adjustments will be made;
to increase the shaft rotation speed, it is worth using two pulleys. One, larger in diameter, is installed on the electric motor. A pulley with a smaller cross-section is mounted on the shaft.

Be very careful about providing power to the machine. Three-phase current is supplied through a four-core cable. In this case, reliable grounding must be organized. These requirements will help to avoid accidents when working on the machine.

Drawing. The main stages of creating a jointer

Tabletop jointer - drawing

Tabletop jointer - drawing (part 2)

A jointing machine, its simplest version without additional functions, can be made quite easily with your own hands. The general progress of work in this case will look like this:

first prepare all the necessary parts, tools and materials;
We create a drawing of the future machine. Without this “document” you cannot start work. With the help of the drawing you can calculate all the nuances and prepare for them. In addition, having such a plan will greatly facilitate and simplify the task;
Next, we transfer all the dimensions of future parts to the workpiece and manufacture them;
Very important detail– this is the place to install the rotor bearings. It is made from several pieces.

When fastening, glue and clamp are used. The recess should ideally fit the dimensions of the bearing;

Next, we install the electric motor. To do this, as noted above, you can use a cantilever mount, or install the unit on a skid;
The next step will be to assemble the rotor with the bearing and install them in place. At the same time, a connection is made to the electric motor using a belt drive. Check that the rotor rotates freely in the bearing;
Next, the work surface is assembled and installed. It will consist of two parts - the serving and the receiving. In this case, the second should be a couple of millimeters higher than the first. The working surface can be made from multilayer plywood, and for greater strength and increased service life, upholstered with sheet iron.

After creating the system for turning the electric motor on and off, the machine is ready for use. But so that your new tool brought only benefit and joy of work, it is worth using it correctly and safely.

A rotary machine, like any mechanism, needs correct operation. If you do not follow certain rules, the device can quickly fail. And in the worst case, you yourself will get injured. Therefore, when using, you should follow the recommendations from specialists:

In order for the machine to operate reliably, it is necessary to periodically carry out preventive maintenance. Such a complex includes the following activities - checking the reliability of the location of the knives on the shaft, injection of bearings, checking the electric motor, inspecting the belt drive to ensure that its tension is sufficient, checking all contacts, and so on;
Rotating parts are always dangerous. And if they are also equipped with sharp blades, then the risk of getting herbs is very high. To increase operational safety, it is better to cover the shaft with knives with a casing. It will be revealed at origin wooden blank, and close again when idle;
When working on the machine, follow all safety precautions. This is especially true for the quality of workplace lighting. Hang it above the machine powerful lamp, and the premises of your workshop itself should be bright. Also pay attention to the quality of the floor. If it is too slippery, it is better to install wooden platform or rubber mat;
Do not use excessive force when planing or cutting material. Excessive force will not speed up the work, but will only spoil the workpiece or lead to breakdowns of the machine itself;
do not hesitate to invite an assistant when processing long workpieces. This way the work will be done faster, better and safer for your health.

Of course, it is worth keeping your desktop clean. After finishing work, with the machine turned off and de-energized, clean the device from chips. The same must be done periodically to perform large volumes. Turn off the machine and remove any accumulated chips from all mechanisms and surfaces. Cleanliness will make your work easier and help keep the unit operating for a longer period of time.

The video will discuss in detail one of the options for a homemade jointing machine.

Video: homemade jointer

A jointer performs the functions of planing wooden edges, faces, boards, and bars in order to ensure a smooth surface. An electric jointer has a fairly simple operating principle and a simple design, which allows you to assemble the unit yourself from available tools and materials.

Before you purchase a jointing machine, or assemble this device yourself using an electric planer, you should learn a little about the structure and operating features of the unit.

In the slot on the work table there is a knife shaft, which moves due to electrical installation— electric motor;
The shaft is designed to perform the main function - planing;
The workpiece moves towards the knife shaft due to the roller assembly;
Supports help tilt the workpiece at different angles;
By moving the workpiece up or down, you adjust the resulting thickness of the product;
The machine table top is divided crosswise into two sections;
The front section is located lower than the rear;
The back should be located on the same level with the most high points where the jointer knives are located;
The difference between the heights of the sections determines the thickness of the layer that is cut from the tree by the shaft of knives, that is, the knives of the machine;
The SF 4 jointing machine, like most of its analogues, has a cast iron tabletop;
To increase the level of comfort during operation, guide measuring devices are installed on the jointer unit;
In addition to knives, in order to improve performance and increase functionality, additional devices are installed on the jointing machine. This makes it possible to obtain circular jointing and slotting installations in one housing.

As for the device, there are several main points to highlight.

The knife shaft can be single-sided or double-sided.
The one-sided blade shaft allows you to process one piece of wood.
The double sided knife shaft has important advantage— it can simultaneously process a workpiece in two planes.
The knife shaft may have different diameter. The larger the diameter of the knife shaft, the higher the quality of the processed workpiece. This should be taken into account if you decide to make a jointer unit yourself.
There are two types of knives on the machine.
Single-edge knives are models that are subject to periodic sharpening. By sharpening, single-edge knives can be restored and their service life can be significantly extended.
Double-edge jointer knives are single-use planer tools. In their case, sharpening is impossible.

Do it yourself

Tables, knives, technical specifications electric planer, the requirements imposed by the jointer unit, the ability to sharpen knives with your own hands - all this makes it possible self-assembly similar equipment.

No one argues that Kraton 204 or Felisatti are wonderful factory models that have excellent technical characteristics, high-quality tables, and sharp knives. But the same Kraton 204 can well be replaced with an analogue, assembled by yourself, if you need a machine for working at home.

It is impossible to promise complete similarity of a home unit with the characteristics of Kraton 204. But you can get closer to the capabilities of the sought-after Kraton 204 machine or its analogues by assembling the unit from an electric planer with your own hands.

We offer you two options on how you can assemble decent machine models with your own hands using an electric planer and other auxiliary materials.

First example

If you have a good electric planer, which has good technical characteristics, you can assemble tables in a few hours, install knives with the ability to sharpen and get a decent jointer unit.

An electric planer has its advantages, but it cannot plane smoothly. Therefore, it is necessary to slightly correct its characteristics, modernize the device, turning it into a full-fledged jointer unit. Experts advise using an electric planer model that has sliding blade guards. When moving the workpiece along the machine, the guards are removed. An important detail is the fasteners with the knives facing up, which come with the electric planer.

To work you will need:

High quality boards;
Ten plywood;
Self-tapping screws;
Fasteners (nuts, bolts, washers).

If everything is ready, we proceed to assembling the machine.

The base for the jointer can be made from boards. You need to assemble a box that does not have a bottom or a lid. The length of the drawer directly determines how long the tables of your DIY model will be.
Place a sheet of plywood on top of the box with a hole made for the electric plane platform.
A couple more sheets are placed on top. They will act as the front and back plates. For the receiving sheet, choose a material that is 2 mm thicker.
Make sure the countertops are parallel.
Process the edges of the plywood, sand them, and secure them with self-tapping screws.
Fasten the fasteners for the electric planer, allowing you to install it with the knives facing up, onto bottom sheet. Install the tool on it.
Make ears from wood and thread bolts through them. With their help, the height of the electric planer will be adjusted in relation to the work table.
Make and install a side stop. It is made from a sheet of plywood.

Second example

If you want to get more significant characteristics close to Kraton 204, you should pay attention to complex homemade installations. The presented example is much closer to the previous one to the Kraton 204 model; it may have knives with a sharpening function, which will significantly improve the characteristics.

A master with some experience can assemble such a unit, the characteristics of which are not far from Kraton 204;
Be sure to arm yourself with drawings so that there are no problems during assembly;
For assembly you will need an electric motor, the characteristics of which provide a power of 1.5 kW;
The motor will be connected to the shaft using a drive belt;
Use disposable knives or knives with the ability to sharpen, it’s up to you;
Weld the frame from metal pipes, corners and rectangular profiles;
A base plate, a pair of side strips and a base for the stroke screw are welded to the frame;
The side strips are mounted so that the guide has free movement. For these purposes, provide appropriate clearances;
The lead screw is installed on a support, after which it is welded with a welding machine;
The front plate will consist of a guide and a top section. They are connected by sides;
Carefully measure the end elements of the plates, make sure they are parallel, after which you can carefully sand them;
You can make the knife shaft yourself, or entrust this task to a professional turner;
To make the sides identical, fold and grind them together, drill a hole, placing them side by side. After drilling, insert temporary studs, and when the sides and guides are welded, they can be removed;
Install a knife shaft with a diameter of up to 11 cm. The length of the knives can be 200 mm;
Raise the front tabletop to the level of the shaft so that its edge is parallel to the axis of the shaft. Now apply markings and make holes for the screws of the shaft supports. This is how the shaft is installed on bearings;
Fix the back tabletop so that it is motionless.

The price of a Kraton 204 type machine will be from 30 thousand rubles. A unit with the ability to sharpen knives can be assembled with your own hands for literally several thousand. The choice is yours.

What do you need to make a homemade jointer with your own hands? First you need to decide on the types of this tool.

There are three types of jointer.

The first is manual, reminiscent of an elongated plane.
The second one is an electric planer, it looks like circular saw with a horizontal knife.
And the third is a jointing machine.

Its main parts are the statina and the jointing shaft.

How to make a jointer with your own hands?

The proposed version of the jointer will allow you to easily process workpieces longer than 60 cm. The basis of this woodworking machine is a manual electric plane Russian production– Interskol.

The power tool has been slightly modified. For example, the original soles were removed. And additional holes are cut in the plastic body for easier release of chips from the plane.

To create a jointer, you will need a table to which an electric plane will be attached from below. The base of the machine table top is made of two corners soldered to each other. The total length of the working surface is 130 cm.

The photo shows the holes with which the plane will later be attached.

1) For accurate and high-quality processing wood, a stop is required. It must be welded perpendicular to the work surface. The same stop is welded on the other side.

2) Then the guide can be screwed to the welded stops. You can use flat boards as a guide. In our case, this is a piece of chipboard.

Very important point is that the serving and receiving parts of the table are at different levels. More precisely, the entire feeding part is 1 mm lower. This difference allows you to cut off a layer 1 mm thick from the workpiece. The feeding and receiving parts are connected to each other by two parts on the sides. The connecting parts in our case are a cut channel.

The table is assembled together using electrode welding. 2.5 mm electrodes were used so as not to burn through the metal. Welding was done by spot welding.

The machine stands on 3 legs. On one side there are two thin legs made of metal pipes, and on the other side there is a thicker leg. To answer the question why exactly 3 legs, you need to remember the geometry. After all, a plane can be drawn through any three points. A machine with three legs will stand firmly even on an uneven floor, while a four-legged machine will wobble in this case.

And in order to prevent the entire machine from falling apart, two metal pipes were welded along two diagonals. This increased the strength of the structure.

Once the table is assembled and ready, you can begin attaching the power tool. Standard mounting screws are used as connecting elements. They attached the original sole. The plane is attached from below. For a tighter fit, you can use a compensating gasket. The photo clearly shows that the gasket adds thickness.

By leaning the plane against the bottom and aligning the bolts with the holes, you can tighten the mounting bolts. They should be wrapped securely. So that the plane does not fall off later. Now you can turn on the assembled homemade jointer and feel free to work on it.

Video: homemade jointer.

Video: second part.

Video: third part.

Wood processing is one of the most popular activities among enthusiastic people around the world.

This material is relatively cheap, easy to grind, and finished product, coated with varnish, paint or stain, will serve for dozens of years without losing its external aesthetics and strength.

Interior items, furniture and much more can be made independently; for this it is not at all necessary to spend money on purchasing expensive equipment or materials.

Even the fact that plastic and various metal alloys are replacing wooden products everywhere does not diminish the interest in wood processing among enthusiasts.

This is both a wonderful hobby and an opportunity to surprise loved ones with unique items created by with my own hands.

Adviсe experienced craftsmen in woodworking they say that it is not necessary to run into construction stores, if required additional tool to perform a certain type of work.

There are some things you can do with your own hands. For example this carpentry tool like a jointer.

What is he like? The jointer can be classified as the planes we are used to, but with minor changes in appearance, which means designed to perform certain tasks.

Increasing the length of the jointer makes it possible to process wide flat surfaces. The planing mechanism in this case is the same as when working with a plane.

Individual decorative or small elements cannot be processed with such equipment, but if it is necessary to achieve a smooth and flat surface of the product, it is irreplaceable.

Make manual jointer from a plane and long sanded pieces of wood - simple task for any person more or less experienced in carpentry. Therefore, it is not worth spending large sums on its purchase.

By devoting several evenings to making such a tool, you will replenish your arsenal with quite practical and necessary equipment for woodworking.

Electric planer jointer with your own hands: how to do it?

For those who have turned their hobby into something more and are looking to expand the range of their tools, we suggest you try making your own jointer. Interesting and useful at the same time.

The option we presented for manufacturing woodworking equipment, subject to technology, allows us to obtain a tool with high precision.

To do this, we will use boards or plywood sheets that have already been processed in advance using a jointer and thicknesser.

Joiner from an electric planer: how to build the equipment yourself

To make a jointer with your own hands you will need wooden box, firmly knocked together, three sheets of plywood of different thicknesses (which we will explain along the way so as not to confuse), an electric planer, bolts and nuts for fastening. Let's start with the box.

You can take a ready-made box without a bottom, but it’s better to make one yourself. The point is that the box should be elongated rectangular shape so that there is room to swing when jointing.

We cover the assembled box with a sheet of plywood, having previously cut a hole in it, and place the plane in the box, with the knives up, or the sole, which is actually the same thing.

If the plane is Interskolov, then it has a special device for attaching it to the table with the knives up; these elements are called devices.

On top of the base sheet of plywood with the plane already attached, we place two more sheets.

What is special: one of the sheets will be 2 mm thicker. This will be the receiving sheet, that is, the one on which, after jointing, it goes wooden beam(we assume that 2 mm will be the layer that will be cut off with a jointer).

The second sheet is correspondingly 2 mm thinner. This will be the feed layer, the one from which the wooden beam is fed to the plane blade.

The sole of the plane should be raised above the main sheet of plywood so that the sole and the receiving layer form one plane and are at the same level, and the supply plywood is 2 mm higher.

The jointer must be firmly screwed with bolts and nuts so that the fastening can be adjusted if necessary.

Electric planer jointer: manufacturing instructions

Method 1. Vertical placement of the working surface of an electric planer

Converting an electric planer into a jointer does not take much time or effort. No materials needed either. Remains of wood that can be used for the common good are suitable. The first option for using an electric planer as a jointer involves a vertical arrangement of the working surface and cutting knife.

This arrangement allows you to process both narrow and wide workpieces. In this case, the workpiece moves freely along the table surface.

The idea of the device is quite simple, but the caveat is that it is not suitable for use on any table; to use it you need carpentry workbench special design with the possibility of external side mounting.

If available, install an electric plane in vertical position very easy. It should be noted that the device is made of 12 mm thick plywood for the DeWalt 680 OS electric planer. If you have equipment of a different model, then the device adapts to design features, existing plane.

Equipment installation involves the following operations:

insert the mounting bolts into T-profile and do not clamp them, but only slightly screw them;

remove the pressure plate and install the plane;

We put the pressure plate in place, but do not tighten it, but only slightly tighten it;

We set the working surface of the plane strictly perpendicular to the tabletop using a measuring tool;

the angle must correspond to 90º. You can obtain the angle value by using an M8 adjusting screw connection. The nut is installed in the plywood plane, and the screw passing through it rests against the handle of the electric plane, thereby changing the angle between the sole and the surface of the table. On the handle of the tool in the place where the screw will be pressed, preferably on double-sided tape install the metal plate. After setting the required size, the screw must be tightened with a lock nut;

We remove the standard side stop from the plane, and in its place we put a self-made protective casing. As a barbell protective casing It is best to use a Ø8 stud with a 30mm threaded end. Casing size 150x150 with rounding;

a distinctive feature of this installation is the ability to install the knives tangentially, as shown in the photo. Then the cleanliness of the processing improves and the workpiece is much easier to feed;

after all the settings are completed, tighten all the wing nuts and install additional clamps in order to avoid accidental violation of the settings during the jointing process.

Please note that cutting tool the plane did not touch the surfaces of the table. This point must be taken into account when making the device.

Can be used as a clamp flat board or a level, having previously set and clamped them with clamps, or even better, make a comb, following the example milling machine. The comb should also be secured with clamps.

Before attaching it, we set the processing depth. The recommended amount of material removed in one pass is no more than 1 mm.

Now you need to clamp the comb with clamps, the length of which should extend onto the non-adjustable side of the working surface of the plane.

It is better to orient the sawdust suction downwards. This will prevent clogging of the pipe. In this position, processing waste can be collected without connecting forced suction of chips; just tie a plastic bag.

Due to the fact that the inclusion of an electric plane is blocked, it is best to turn it on using a remote socket, but if one is not available, then you need to use a switch, placing it in convenient location near a running jointer.

Next, we take the workpiece and check the operation of the electric jointer, made by ourselves. We check the treated surface for cleanliness and perpendicularity of the planes. The new jointer based on an electric planer is ready for use.

As noted earlier, vertical installation A jointer requires a professional table. If you do carpentry work all the time, and you have such a table, then vertical installation of a plane is for you. But if your carpentry activity comes down to one-time work from time to time, then you will be more interested in another method of jointer with a horizontal working surface.

Method 2. Horizontal placement of the working surface of an electric planer

Let's consider making a jointer based on an electric planer trademark Status PL82SP.

There are two reasons why we chose this particular tool. Firstly, it is low-noise, which is a huge advantage in a small home workshop. Secondly, the delivery set includes brackets for mounting the plane horizontally. We will use them to make our own jointer.

Let's take a board 85x12 cm. We suggest using thermowood; it does not absorb moisture, so it does not suffer during operation. But this is not important, you can use any material that is at hand. This board will serve as the base of our jointer. We drill through holes Ø 6.5 to attach the planer brackets.

WITH reverse side We drill a Ø12 hole on the board to the depth of the height of the M6 bolt head.

Insert M6 bolts and tighten the nuts.

We attach the brackets to the bolts and install the plane. The axis of the tool must correspond to the axis of the base.

Since the back of the working surface is not adjustable, we will take it as a base. We place a level on it and measure the height from the top of the base to the working surface along both edges of the bottom board. They must be identical. In our case it is 18 cm.

We prepare two blanks from the board that will serve as table extensions. One of them is 27 cm long, the other is 35 cm. Width is 10 cm.

We also cut out a blank from a 5 cm thick board, the length of which corresponds to the sum of the lengths of the extensions, and the width in the sum of the height of the extension is 18 cm.

We cut the pieces to length and cut them in the middle at an angle.

We are preparing 4 more pieces. Two of them are 25.5x7.5 cm, and two more are 20.5x7.5 cm.

Now you need to make a groove in these blanks. To do this, you can use a router, but if you don’t have such equipment, then we do it using a jigsaw and hand drill. First, we drill holes for the entry and exit of the blade, and then cut a groove. By using sandpaper we clean and adjust the size to 8 mm.

We drill through holes for fastening with self-tapping screws, using a countersink we make a chamfer on the hole.

We connect the blanks strictly in the middle, as shown in the photo, making sure to first secure them with clamps.

We take the counter part of the workpiece and drill a hole. Insert a furniture bolt with a square bearing and twist the wing nut and washer. The table lift assembly is ready.

The next step is gluing the table extension to the lifting unit.

We fix the tables to the base with self-tapping screws. When attaching, it is important that the edge of the back overlaps the knife.

We make a parallel stop, fix it as shown in the photo. When installing the stop, it is important to maintain an angle of 90° between the table surface and the stop.

We test the resulting machine. Such budget option A jointer will be a great tool in your workshop.

Basic safety rules when working on a jointing machine.

Due to the fact that the table is high-risk equipment, we consider it obligatory to focus on safe rules its operation.

The machine must always be securely fastened. If this is a mobile version, then two clamps are used as fasteners; if the jointer is stationary, it is securely attached to the table with bolted joints.
Before starting work, it is necessary to check the reliability of the blades and, if necessary, tighten them. You should not work with dull knives, as you have to apply excessive force, and this can lead to injury.
A protective cover is required. It cannot be removed. To process workpieces, use all kinds of pushers, avoid working with your hands in the rotation zone of the knives.
Excessive vibration, imbalance, beating and extraneous noise of the equipment are not allowed.
It is prohibited to operate the machine wearing gloves.

Jointer + thicknesser from an electric planer: idea

Sometimes there is a need for a surface planer. Converting an electric planer into a planer is quite simple. Of course, if we are not talking about a potential machine, but about some kind of device, made with our own hands, for obtaining two parallel planes.

To make such a primitive machine you need to spend a little time and the same amount of material. The thicknesser manufacturing process is divided into three stages.

Stage No. 1 Preparing the base.

We take the board and fasten it securely. On it in the middle, in the size of the width of the plane knives, we attach two slats. The distance between them will be the maximum width of the processed parts. Along the width of the board we attach two planks with a length corresponding to the length of the plane.

Stage No. 2 Preparation of the instrument.

To adapt an electric plane as a working tool for a future planer, it is necessary to remove the front part of the working surface of the plane and replace it with a sheet of plywood or OSB sheet. Along the width of the plywood we attach two strips with a length corresponding to the length of the plane.

Stage No. 3 Connection of the structure.

We use 4 slats as legs, which we connect with self-tapping screws to the strips on the tool and the base of the device. For convenience, you can use a bolted connection using a furniture bolt with a wing nut. The processing size is set according to the calibrated part.

This planer idea will not satisfy the needs of a carpentry workshop, but household with single production has the right to life.

Do-it-yourself jointer from an electric planer: pros and cons

The main advantage of a jointer made from an electric planer is its price. The materials needed to transform the tool will always be at hand. The costs will be minimal, unlike purchasing a new jointer. In addition, the mobility and now versatility of the unit is captivating. Another plus is the high cleanliness of the treated surface.

Final processing of wooden products using such equipment is a very interesting and, most importantly, convenient activity. The disadvantages of the design are that it has a small jointing width and a short working surface length.

It is worth considering in advance such important issues related to air purification in the workroom and sawdust removal.

For example, since the jointer is homemade, you can come up with something like a bag for collecting sawdust, this will get rid of fine wood dust, not completely, but still. Power tools not only speed up certain operations, but also increase the amount of debris flying into corners. Using a vacuum cleaner will ensure maximum suction of chips from the work area.

Lighting also plays an important role when working with it. A machine with increased danger, therefore it is necessary to ensure sufficient light flux. It is best to carry out such work on fresh air in daylight.

If the time of year or other conditions does not allow this, arrange your workplace with maximum comfort.

You can also watch a video of jointer using an electric planer

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Household and industrial jointers are widely used for wood processing. Just like turning, circular and milling machines, jointers are mandatory equipment for carpentry shops. They are easy to use and reliable. Working with homemade jointers requires accuracy and some skills.

Scope of application and purpose

Industrial and home-made planing equipment is used for one-sided processing of flat surfaces of wood products. The main area of application of the machines is furniture and woodworking production. Perpendicular surfaces are planed on them, chamfers are selected at the desired angle from the sides. Precision processing is important when assembling furniture; jointing equipment allows you to obtain a part of a given size. Planing mechanisms are often used at home in household workshops.

A jointing machine does not allow you to plan thickness to size, or make parts with parallel surfaces!

Classification of jointing machines

Depending on the number of planing devices, planing machines can be double-sided or single-sided. All planing devices are divided into categories according to the width of the planing surface, the length of the work table and the rotation speed of the knife shaft.

According to the processed width of the workpiece, mechanisms are distinguished:

by 40 cm;
by 50 - 52 cm;
at 60 - 63 cm.

Compact homemade units for home have a smaller processing width.

According to the length of the working surface, two groups of devices are distinguished:

with a length of less than 250 cm;
with a length from 250 to 300 cm.

Larger workpieces can be processed on long tables. The quality of jointing also improves.

According to the frequency of torsion of the working shaft, machines are divided into two categories:

4700 - 4800 rpm;
5000 rpm.

Industrial motors can operate at speeds up to 12,000 rpm.

The device of a jointing machine

The design consists of the main elements:

work surface;
bed;
guide;
knife shaft;
circular fence.

The working surface consists of two plates: back and front. The level of the back plate coincides with the level top point cutter blades. The front level is set lower to the extent that the material is removed during processing. Typically the level difference is no more than 1.5 millimeters. This is enough to qualitatively process the surface of the part in two steps.

The plates are made of cast iron, and to make the table more stable, stiffening ribs are provided. The edges of the slabs are covered with steel plates that protect them from destruction. They are also chip breakers.

The knife shaft is located between two plates; cutters are attached to the shaft. For high-quality processing, it is necessary to select the same cutters. As a rule, single-edged knives are used that can be sharpened. Double-edged cutters, when severely dull, are thrown away and replaced with new ones; they cannot be sharpened. As a rule, machines for household workshops are equipped with cutters made of tool high-speed steel. To work with dense types of wood or pressed boards, carbide-tipped cutters are used.

The guide is fixed with bolts in the provided holes. The ruler can move in the transverse direction depending on the size of the part.

A circular fence is installed on the front of the slab; it fits tightly to the guide due to the spring. The fence covers the knife shaft. The movement from the motor to the blade shaft is transmitted through a belt drive.

The optimal size of wooden parts for processing on a jointer is from 100 to 150 cm. Too long parts hang down and create inconvenience when working at home, while short ones are dangerous.

Setting and selecting mode

Before starting work, you need to calculate the thickness of the material being planed and the speed of movement of the workpiece (for equipment with an automatic feeder). The size of the layer depends on the initial state of the tree and is determined experimentally. To do this, several (no more than five) workpieces are processed. If untreated areas remain on the surface, the slab is lowered slightly. If the workpiece is warped by more than 2.5 mm, processing is carried out in two stages.

When the height of the slabs is set, measure the gap between the edge of the cutters and the jaws of the slabs, which should be from 2 to 3 millimeters. To determine the gap, a calibrated plate is used, which should be inserted into the gap easily, but without gaps. If the gap exceeds 3 mm, the part becomes covered with tears; if the gap is less than 2 mm, the cutter is destroyed.

In addition to setting the slabs in height, it is also necessary to determine the location of the guide. When processing wooden blocks, the gap between the ruler and the left edge of the knife shaft should be slightly larger than the width of the block. Gradually, the knives become dull and the guide moves to the right, involving other parts of the cutters in the work. The ruler moves across the tabletop on a rack and pinion device driven by a flywheel. To make a corner chamfer on an edge, the guide is installed using a template or square and secured with a screw.

Automatic feeders regulate the feeding of parts without stoppers, with low pressure. When processing edges, they are placed parallel to the ruler.

The correct settings of planing equipment are determined experimentally. Allowed errors are:

on the plane no more than 0.15 millimeters per meter;
perpendicularly - no more than 0.1 millimeter per 10 cm.

Working principle of a jointer

One person is enough to operate single-sided jointing equipment at home. He examines the condition of the workpiece and places it with its convex plane up on the front plate. With both hands he presses it against the ruler and points it at the cutters. Next, the already trimmed side is pressed with the left hand to the surface of the back plate. The master inspects the processed workpiece: if it is not planed enough, he sends it to the knives. It is advisable to avoid processing very warped workpieces, since too thick a layer of chips is removed. The remaining workpiece may turn out unacceptably thin.

When processing two perpendicular planes, the larger area is used first. Then it is applied to the guide and the second one is planed. The double-sided machine allows you to process both sides simultaneously.

If “burns” or “mossiness” appear on the surface during processing, it’s time to sharpen the cutters;
When working with parts shorter than 40 cm and narrower than 3 cm, they are held only with special pushers, and the parts complex shape templates;
If the planed plane is curved or has the shape of an impeller, you should check the level of the tabletop plates and the blade shaft.

DIY jointing machine

homemade machine - side view

Small frame desktop machine for home can be made from metal pipe rectangular section. More powerful homemade design will be obtained from a 40 mm corner. The width of the bed depends on the size of the knives and the planned planing width.

At one end, two guides are welded to the frame, the upper edges of which coincide with the surface of the frame. In the middle of the frame, a knife shaft mounted on a pair of ball bearings is attached to bolts screwed into pre-prepared holes.

The working surfaces for the desktop machine for the home are made of thick plywood laid on bars. And to regulate their level, homemade overhead bolted connections are provided. Four connections for each plate: a pair at the front and a pair at the back. A vertical block with a hole is attached to each part of the tabletop from below. A long threaded pin is threaded through the block and the upper horizontal of the bed, with the help of which the position of the table top relative to the knife shaft is changed.

There is another option for homemade fastening of the work surface: there are grooves made in the frame (4 pcs.), in the movable tabletop there is the same number of holes into which threaded pin heads are inserted. By tightening the nuts and moving the pins in the grooves, they change the distance between the blade shaft and the edge of the tabletop.

The back plate is installed motionless and adjusted in height to the knife shaft. A board or chipboard of a suitable size can serve as a guide ruler.

When choosing a motor, you should proceed from the nature of use of the future machine. For household needs, a power of 750 W is sufficient, but a motor with a power of at least 1.5 kilowatts can cope with more serious tasks.

A few more options for homemade jointers:

Review of factory models

Model	W0108	W0100
Engine	0.75 kW 220V	0.75 kW 220 V	2.2 kW, 220V	3.7 kW 380V
Cutting width	153 mm	153 mm	203 mm	400 mm
Maximum cutting depth	3 mm	3.2 mm	3.2 mm	3 mm
Number of knives of the cutting shaft	3	3	4	4
Cutting shaft diameter	61 mm	61 mm	78 mm	98 mm
Table length	1210 mm	1535 mm	1800 mm	2250 mm
Feed table length	700 mm	760 mm	880 mm	1090 mm
Reception table length	590 mm	755 mm	880 mm	1090 mm
Table width	255 mm	255 mm	330 mm	420 mm
Table height from floor	820 mm	850 mm	795 mm	820 mm
Stop dimensions	740 x 98 mm	889 x 124 mm	889 x 124 mm	1195 x 150 mm
Packaged sizes	1245x515x275 mm	1600x360x250 mm	1850x450x300 mm	2300x820x1025 mm
Gross weight	104 kg	135 kg	208 kg	570 kg
Price	52000 rub.	RUB 68,000	112000 rub.	RUB 229,000

W0108

W0100