Partition in a drywall room with your own hands. Building a partition from drywall with your own hands - step by step instructions. Installation of vertical rack profiles

In the process of arranging your own home, quite often there is a need to make a partition. This may be required during a large-scale redevelopment or if you want to divide the room into several parts. It is easiest to build an internal partition from drywall and metal profiles. Working with this material is quite simple, because many people want to learn how to make a drywall partition. You should be aware that in the process of forming walls from drywall sheets, there are a large number of nuances that must be taken into account.

To make a partition yourself, you will need to purchase the following profiles: CD profile, UD profile, CW, UW.

Materials that will be needed for the construction of the partition

To ensure the strength and correct configuration of the wall, you will first need to make a frame. It consists of metal profiles that are designed for drywall. You will also need some other equipment.

In most cases, the following profiles are used:

1. D - to form a plane on which drywall will be fixed in the future.
2. W - for the construction of the partition frame.

Profiles can be supporting and guides.

To make a partition yourself, you will need to purchase the following profiles:

1. CD profile. Will be used as the main structural element.
2. UD profile. It is used as a guide element for fixing the CD profile.
3. c.w. It is used as a stand for shaping the wall frame.
4. UW will be used as a guide element for CW.

If you plan to build a simple partition with a width of 50, 75 or 100 mm, only CW and UW profiles will be needed. For the construction of walls of large width, additionally, CD and UD profiles should be purchased.

To fix the profile in the frame, you will need a suspension and a connector. All elements will be connected with self-tapping screws. You will need self-tapping screws such as “fleas” and fixtures with countersunk heads for drywall. To fix the entire frame to the main walls, you will need to purchase plastic dowels with impact screws.

Plasterboard sheets should be 12.5 mm thick, with a wide chamfer on the sides. If the plasterboard partition is planned to be made in the kitchen or in the bathroom, then moisture-resistant sheets should be prepared.

As a result, for the construction of a thin wall or partition, the following elements will be needed:

• drywall sheets;
• metal profiles;
• wooden bars;
• self-tapping screws;
• dowels;
• tape for sealing;
• mineral wool;
• metal corner.

In addition, you will need to prepare the following tools:

• roulette;
• building level;
• plumb;
• screwdriver;
• grater;
• knife;
• scissors;
• electric drill.

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Nuances to know

When all the necessary tools and materials are prepared, you can begin to build the frame.

The floor and adjacent walls, on which the partition will be attached, must be at the stage of fine finishing.

On the floor, you need to mark the location of the manufactured structure. You will need to take into account the following nuances:

1. Ideal angles between the walls in rooms are quite rare, and therefore the distance between them in most cases differs by several cm. In the process of marking a plasterboard partition, this must be taken into account. It is recommended to snap to two walls that run parallel. Distances will need to be averaged. Thus, it will be possible to avoid deformation of the resulting structure.
2. If, in addition to the construction of the partition, it is planned to cover all the walls with plasterboard sheets, then first of all the frame is displayed so that right angles can be created. After that, it will be possible to proceed with the construction of the structure.
3. When marking the first wall placement line, one should take into account the fact that it will be necessary to align the guide profile along it. To this mark, you must add the thickness of the drywall sheet, a layer of putty and finishing material.

When the starting line on the floor is determined, it can be transferred to the ceiling and walls. To do this, you need a plumb line or a laser level.

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How to form a plasterboard partition frame?

All profiles that are attached to the floor, ceiling or walls are installed using sealing tape. This tape must be installed between the profile and the supporting base. First of all, you need to fix the UW profile to the floor and ceiling. It can be fixed with dowels and screws. The installation step of fasteners is 0.5 m.

Along the edges of the guide elements, you need to fix the racks from the CW profile. These devices must also be installed in places where it is planned to build a door or window opening. The profiles are first attached to the lower guide element. After that, they need to be threaded into the upper guide element and installed vertically. To determine the correct location, you need to use the building level. In the process of placing these profiles, the margin for sheathing with drywall strips over the profile should be taken into account. Products are mounted with the front side inside the opening. Racks are attached to the rails with self-tapping screws.

Along the perimeter of door and window openings, the supporting profiles will need to be reinforced with wooden bars, which are installed inside the profile and fixed with self-tapping screws. The beam should be selected based on the width of the profile.

Next, along the entire length of the frame, you need to install CW support profiles. The first element from the adjacent wall is mounted at a distance of 55 cm, all subsequent ones are installed in increments of 60 cm. The distance is measured from the middle of each element. In the process, you need to check the vertical installation of the profiles.

Use the UW profile to define the top of the door opening and the horizontal edges of the window openings. On the front side of the profile, marks should be placed at a distance of 15 cm from the extreme part of the structure. The sidewalls of the profile must be cut at an angle of 45°. You need to start from the extreme side. Further, the extreme parts of the product must be bent in order to obtain a U-shaped structure.

The resulting workpiece will need to be put on the racks with bent edges, and then raised to the desired height. The structure is fixed with self-tapping screws. Next, you need to screw on the oblique ears that appeared on the horizontal part of the product. In the same way, you need to form a window opening.

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How to cut drywall sheets?

To perform this operation, you can use an ordinary construction knife with replaceable blades. The sheet should be placed on a flat surface. Next, with a simple pencil, you need to mark the cut line, and then cut the top of the cardboard with a knife. Next, the sheet must be shifted along the notch line to the extreme part of the support and slowly broken. When the sheet is returned to its original position, it will turn on edge and bend. On the other hand, the cardboard also needs to be cut, but not through and through. Then the sheet must be turned over and shifted to the extreme part of the support. As a result, it can be chipped.

To ensure a gap that can be easily sealed with a putty mixture in the future, a bevel with a slope of 22.5 ° must be formed on the cut edge of the sheet. To do this, you need to use a planer. A chamfer must also be made on that edge of the sheet that will adjoin the GKL strip placed above or below the sheet.

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How to properly fix drywall to the frame?

Next, the drywall sheets are attached to the frame. Sheets can be 120x120 cm, 120x250 cm and 120x300 cm. However, most often in living rooms there are ceilings over 2.75 m high. Therefore, you will need to add small strips of plasterboard, since one sheet may not be enough.

The first sheet, which is installed close to the extreme part of the structure, should be removed from the side chamfer. To do this, along its entire length on one side, you need to cut a strip 5 cm wide.

The sheet is fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws 3.5x35 mm. The first step is to fix the extreme parts of the sheet, after which the product is attached in the middle. Screws must be installed every 25 cm. In some cases, this distance can be reduced to 10 cm. Fasteners must be screwed in so that the caps go deep into the sheet.

Sheets are attached at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the floor. This is necessary in order to ensure the integrity of the structure during operation.

After fixing the first sheet, you will need to measure the remaining distance to the ceiling structure and cut off a piece of plasterboard of the appropriate length. It also needs to form a chamfer.

In the future, all sheets will need to be installed in a checkerboard pattern, there is no need to cut the chamfer. After the first row, the whole sheet must be installed under the ceiling, the missing part is mounted from below. In this way, one side of the wall can be sheathed.

Drywall partition, characteristics of materials, advantages and disadvantages of the design, development of its scheme, installation of the frame and its sheathing, arrangement of a doorway and preliminary surface finishing.

Advantages and disadvantages of drywall partitions

Not so long ago, all partitions in residential buildings were built exclusively of brick, concrete or blocks. But after the appearance of gypsum plasterboard materials on the construction market, the situation changed radically due to their remarkable properties:

1. GKL partitions on a metal or wooden frame have excellent sound insulation, especially in combination with a heater, which in this case plays an additional role. A single-layer cladding of a plasterboard partition has a sound absorption coefficient of up to 47 dB, and its second layer makes this indicator even better.
2. Unlike concrete and stone partitions, gypsum boards and metal profiles that make up similar structures are very light. On average, 1 m 2 of a GCR wall weighs 25-50 kg, depending on its thickness. This allows you to significantly reduce the load on the floors of the building and save, for example, on fittings, mortar and the delivery of materials.
3. Plasterboard sheets have an initially flat surface, which is good for further finishing: paint, wallpaper, decorative plaster and even tiles.
4. GKL is not included in the category of combustible materials, so it is safe in case of fire.
5. Its hygroscopicity allows you to stabilize the microclimate of the room, since the material is able not only to pass air, but also to absorb excess moisture.
6. An important indicator of plasterboard partitions is the ease of installation. For this reason, in a couple of days you can transform the room beyond recognition. Moreover, it is quite within the power of a home master who has at least elementary skills in construction to do this.
7. The composition of drywall sheets includes only natural ingredients, so the material is absolutely harmless to health.

The disadvantages of drywall interior partitions include their average strength when compared with similar stone, concrete or wooden structures. Unlike them, it is much easier to damage the GCR by careless handling.

The material does not tolerate direct contact with water. In case of accidental flooding of the premises, part of the sheathing of plasterboard partitions will have to be changed. On this, perhaps, all the shortcomings of drywall end.

Selection of materials for partitions from plasterboard

The main materials used for the installation of drywall partitions are light metal profiles and plasterboard. The profiles that form the frame differ in cross-sectional dimensions and functional purpose:

• Guide profile PN (UD). Made in the form of a thin-walled channel. Its width can be from 50 to 100 mm, the size of the shelves is 40 mm. These parameters are always indicated in the marking, for example: PN40-75, where 40 is the width of the shelf, and 75 is the profile. The guide profiles fix the racks of the metal frame of the partition.
• Rack profile PS(CD). It differs from PN by the presence of special locks-bends on the shelves and has a similar marking. Rack profiles serve to stiffen the structure and fasten gypsum boards (gypsum boards) to them.
• Angle profile. It is used in the design of the outer corners of the partition and protects them from mechanical damage.
• arched profile. It is used to create openings of any curvilinear shape.
• lighthouse profile. It has a T-shape and serves as a guide when leveling the walls.

All of the above profiles have a length of 2750-6000 mm and a metal thickness of 0.4-0.55 mm. The last parameter affects the strength, weight and cost of the product.

Plasterboard sheets with which the frame is sheathed must have a thickness of at least 12.5 mm. In the manufacture of a curved opening in the partition, thin sheets up to 12.5 mm are used for the convenience of giving the structure the desired shape. Drywall is divided into types:

1. Standard GKL. This is the most common material, has a gray color and blue markings. It can be ceiling and wall. Ceiling plasterboard sheets are always thinner.
2. Moisture resistant GKL. It is used in the manufacture of partitions for separating wet rooms. It has a green color and blue markings.
3. Fire-resistant GKL. It is used to isolate ventilation shafts or electrical panels. It is gray in color with a red marking.

Drywall is also commercially available, combining the properties of the last two types. It has a green color and a red marking.

When choosing a GKL, you should pay attention to its purpose, and not just to the thickness of the products. This will help to greatly increase the durability of the entire structure during its operation.

Creating a drywall partition drawing

The working scheme of a plasterboard partition is necessary when planning a structure of the required rigidity and volume, as well as to determine the types and quantities of materials needed for its manufacture. Complex calculations are not required here.

Before you make a drywall partition, you first need to draw a scale plan of the room on paper, indicating its height, length and width, and then mark the location line of the future partition on it. After that, you should perform a frontal sketch of the wall and put on it the location of the bearing profiles and the plasterboard, arranged in a checkerboard pattern. At their joints, it is necessary to provide for the installation of horizontal jumpers.

The number of rack profiles, as well as their location, depends on the planned load on the structure. Sheathing of the outer and inner sides of the partition should be carried out so that the edges of the sheets are located on different profiles.

For example, if on one side of the wall the joints of the sheets are on the third, fifth and seventh racks, then on the other side they should be located on the second, fourth and sixth with a step between the racks of 600 mm. All this must be taken into account when making a drawing of a plasterboard partition for zoning a common room.

Important! The attachment points on the partition of furniture or decor items must be reinforced at the stage of creating the frame with additional profiles.

Installation of a frame for a plasterboard partition

After drawing up a diagram of a plasterboard enclosing structure, counting and selecting the necessary materials, you can begin to manufacture a metal frame. The set of tools used for this job is not that great. This is a tape measure, a plumb line, a level and a marker, a hammer, a clerical knife, self-tapping screws, dowels, a screwdriver, metal scissors and a puncher.

According to the partition layout plan, it is necessary to measure the required distance from the nearest wall in several places and draw lines along the ceiling and floor. When connecting their ends on both walls, a closed loop will be obtained. Its sides must be strictly vertical, this must be checked with a plumb line.

Then, sealing tape should be glued on the guide profiles and fixed, guided by the markings made. To do this, it is required in advance to make holes for the dowels with a perforator along the lines of the ceiling and floor.

The fastening step of the PN profiles should not be more than 1 m. The size of the dowels depends on the material of the walls. To fasten the profiles to a concrete slab, you can use "Quick installation" dowels 75 mm long, and to a wooden floor - ordinary screws 45-50 mm. Profiles should be cut to the required dimensions with metal scissors, and in their absence, you can use the "grinder".

To install a drywall partition, the first rack should be placed close to the wall. It is fastened to the guide profiles with the help of a cutter. It is also desirable to paste over the rack with sealing tape at the junction with the main structure to increase the heat and sound insulation of the future partition.

After installing the first profile, you need to check its verticality with a level, and then attach the rack to the load-bearing wall with dowels. For concrete walls, their length should be 75 mm.

Then you should install all the other racks. Their number and step depend on the planned load on the partition. With its decorative purpose, the profile pitch can be taken 1200 mm. If a cabinet will hang on the wall, then the distance between the rack profiles should be taken 400 mm.

Typically, racks are mounted under the middle or edges of the sheet, that is, in increments of 600 mm. And only the second rack is installed at a distance of 200-500 mm from the extreme profile. This is due to the fact that thinning will be cut off from the sheet, making it narrower. At any distance between the vertical profiles, the edges of the plasterboard should always fall exactly on the center of the rack.

On both sides, each rack profile must be attached with a cutter to the guides. In the process of placing the racks, you should ensure that a too narrow piece of drywall sheet does not have to be fixed in the corner of the partition. This can create a problem later in the process and contribute to cracking.

Jumpers must be installed at the locations of the horizontal seams of the GKL. To do this, you need to cut off pieces of the profile 100 mm long with metal scissors and attach them to the racks at the required height. Then the horizontal profile must be inserted inside and fixed with a cutter. This completes the installation of the frame.

Sheathing the partition frame with drywall

Installation of the first sheathing sheet must begin with cutting its thin part along the length. Such thinning on the remaining sheets will be necessary to mask the joints of the plasterboard after their installation and puttying. The first sheet must be attached to the frame so that its entire edge coincides with the center of the profile. Then the GKL should be fixed with self-tapping screws 25 mm long.

Along the edges of the sheet, their fastening step should be 150-200 mm, and in the middle part - up to 300 mm. Self-tapping screws should not be screwed into the corners of the sheets, it is better to step back from them by 5-10 cm. The rest of the skin is attached according to the developed scheme.

When installing a plasterboard partition with your own hands, you need to take into account several rules:

• Be sure to leave the necessary deformation gaps of the skin: between the plasterboard and the floor - 1 cm, between the plasterboard and the ceiling - 0.5 cm, between adjacent sheets - 2 mm.
• It is recommended to avoid cruciform joints in every possible way, such an arrangement of sheets violates the strength of the partition.
• If one side of the structure is sheathed from left to right, then the cladding of the frame on the other side must be done in the reverse order. This will prevent the GKL seams from matching on one frame rack.

With these rules in mind, you first need to sheathe one side of the profiles and fill the cavities between the posts with insulating material of the required thickness. It can be mineral wool or polystyrene. If water pipes are placed in the partition, separate insulation should be put on them, it will prevent the formation of condensate. Wiring here must be laid in advance in a protective corrugated sleeve. After carrying out all these activities, the other side of the frame should be sheathed.

Installation of a doorway in a plasterboard partition

If a plasterboard partition with a door is planned, work should start from the opening. After fixing the guide profiles, you need to install rack-mounted reinforced profiles for it.

It will be easier if you take a bar of the desired length and a thickness slightly less than the width of the metal rack and insert it into the cavity of the doorway profiles. That is, when installing a partition from a profile w. 100 mm, a beam 95 mm thick is taken, inserted into the rack and fastened in it with wood screws in increments of 150-200 mm.

In the absence of a bar, the racks can be reinforced with a guide profile. To do this, it should be connected to the rack using metal screws. Then, according to the principle described above, you need to fix all the other vertical profiles.

The installation of the door lintel between two reinforced posts is carried out in this way. At each end of the jumper profile, it is necessary to measure 100 mm and notch only its shelves. Then, at the incision site, the profile must be bent 90 degrees - that's it, the jumper is ready. It remains to screw it over the opening at the desired height from the floor. When installing a heavy door, the upper part of the opening should also be strengthened.

Features of finishing plasterboard partitions

After the installation of the partition is completed, it should be prepared for exterior decoration. The joints of drywall sheets are reinforced with sickle tape and sealed with gypsum putty. The outer corners of the partition must be reinforced with a metal perforated corner, which is fixed with the same mixture. Hats of self-tapping screws should be hidden under putty.

After the putty has dried at the joints, corners and fasteners, the entire surface of the partition must be treated with a primer to ensure adhesion with a subsequent layer of finish.

Then a continuous putty is performed on both sides of the partition. Under its decoration with wallpaper, it is enough to apply a starting layer of a coarse-grained mixture - it will give the surface the desired roughness. To prepare the surface for painting, you will need an additional layer of fine-grained finishing putty. The work is done with a wide spatula in arcuate movements.

After the end of this process, it is necessary to wait for the time for the applied mixture to dry, and then sand the surface. For grouting, special abrasive meshes No. 100-150 are used. The resulting plaster dust can be removed immediately with an industrial vacuum cleaner. In its absence, the respiratory system should be protected with a respirator. The result of the work should be a smooth partition, ready for decoration with any coating.

How to make a drywall partition - look at the video:

In this way, plasterboard partitions can make the layout of any standard apartment original, not to mention the possibility of using them in a private house. Good luck!

Unfortunately, today not everyone can afford to purchase spacious housing, but most of us still strive to create maximum coziness and comfort in what we have. Is there a way out of the situation when the number of rooms in the apartment is not enough to fully meet the needs of all family members? What if one room has to be used as a living room, office and bedroom? Despite the complexity of the question, the answer is quite simple - you can divide any living space into functional zones with your own hands, dividing it with frame partitions sheathed with drywall and installing a door.

Anatomy of a drywall construction

Despite the features of the interior, your design intent, as well as the location and size of the drywall partitions, all these structures, as a rule, have a standard structure. They are based on a rigid metal frame made of galvanized profile, which can be reinforced with a wooden beam at the point of installation of the doorway. To improve the heat and sound insulation properties, the crate is filled with a special insulator, the choice of which depends on the characteristics of the room and the requirements for the design. Mounted and insulated frame is sheathed on both sides drywall sheets(GKL) - a reliable, environmentally friendly and easy-to-install material, completely ready for any type of finishing.

The frame from the profile is filled with insulation and sheathed with plasterboard sheets

Application area

Frame partitions, sheathed with gypsum boards, are used to divide or zoning space in rooms of various layouts and purposes. These structures are mounted in industrial and office buildings, residential buildings and apartments, garages and outbuildings. The variety of types of drywall allows you to install partitions in rooms with high humidity and special requirements for fire safety.

Advantages

Frame structures sheathed with drywall sheets have long and with great success replaced brick or wood partitions due to a number of characteristic advantages:

• Material properties. A durable metal profile allows you to mount light partition frames of any shape and size, which do not create additional load on the load-bearing floors. The material is resistant to moisture, galvanized coating prevents oxidation and rust formation. Drywall is an environmentally friendly material that has been specially treated to improve fire and moisture resistance. It is easy to install, strong and durable, and its combination with stone wool, foam plastic or corkboard enhances the heat and sound insulation properties of the structure. GCR has a perfectly flat surface, which has unlimited possibilities for decorative finishes.
• Fast and easy installation. Plasterboard partitions are easy to install - even a novice, "inexperienced" home master in construction work can create them. Note that one of the advantages of these structures is the ability to change their location - the product is easily disassembled and reassembled.
• Laying communications. The possibility of laying electrical wiring, water supply or sewage pipelines inside the partition frame is another advantage of this design.
• Minimum cost. All the elements that make up the partition sheathed with plasterboard are of low cost. During installation of the product, piles of construction debris and dust are not formed, the permissible noise level is not exceeded and a minimum of energy is expended.

Flaws

Be sure to note the design flaws that must be taken into account when making the final decision on its creation:

• The relative fragility of drywall compared to materials for capital construction (brick, concrete, wood). This parameter can only be increased by adding skin layers.
• Low resistance of GKL to abundant exposure to moisture. The material can collapse as a result of a leak "organized" by neighbors living above.
• The impossibility of fastening massive shelves or wall cabinets on the surface of the partition. The design is capable of holding a weight of up to 70 kg per linear meter, provided that the elements are fastened to the frame parts, and the drywall itself can withstand no more than 15 kg.

Despite some shortcomings of the GKL, we note that the competent creation and proper operation of partitions made of this material will help to quickly, easily and inexpensively transform the interior of the room, giving it comfort and increasing its functionality.

Preparation for work

That's it, this short "course of theory" is over, let's move on to solving practical issues. First, let's look at the list of the necessary tools, list the materials that we need to build the structure, and also perform an approximate calculation of their number.

Tool

To install the partition, you need to prepare a set of special, but quite common and simple tools:

• Roulette, nylon cord, building level, plumb line, pencil - marking the location of the structure.
• Angle grinder ("Bulgarian") or scissors for metal - cutting profile strips into elements of the desired length.
• Jigsaw (hacksaw) with drywall files or a construction knife - cutting sheathing sheets to size.
• Impact drill or perforator - making holes in load-bearing ceilings for dowels for mounting the PN profile.
• Electric (battery) screwdriver - fastening frame parts and mounting sheathing sheets using self-tapping screws.

To install the partition, you will need a simple construction tool

Attention! For mounting the structure at the upper levels, you will need a solid ladder-ladder. Work with a metal profile and drywall implies the mandatory use of personal protective equipment - goggles or a mask, thick gloves, a respirator.

materials

For self-assembly of the partition, the following materials will be used:

1. Two types of metal profile for mounting the frame: PN - "guide" (English marking UW) - is attached to the floor, ceiling and load-bearing walls in order to design the outline of the structure. It is also used when creating a doorway. PS - "rack-mount" (English marking CW) - is installed vertically to ensure the rigidity of the frame. It is the bearing element of the crate.
2. Plasterboard for sheathing - closes the frame on both sides.
3. Insulation - fills the inner part of the structure, increasing its heat and sound insulation properties.

1 - metal profile; 2 - material for heat and sound insulation; 3 - drywall

When choosing the basic materials for the construction of a partition, it is necessary to take into account its individual parameters and the requirements that it must meet. Let's consider this question in more detail:

• Profile. Standard installation of interior frame structures implies the possibility of using material with a base width of 50, 75 or 100 mm. The choice of this parameter depends on the height of the ceilings of the room - the higher they are, the wider the profile should be and the partition itself should be thicker.
• Drywall. There are several types of material for sheathing the frame, the choice here depends only on the characteristics of the room. For example: when installing a partition in a bathroom, you need to use GKLV - a moisture-resistant type of drywall, and the creation of curved and figured structures will require the use of thinner sheets.
• Insulation material. It is selected based on the requirements for the partition and the characteristics of the room - when dividing the room into a study and a nursery, you will need a good sound insulator (corkboard or dense foam), and basalt wool, which perfectly stores heat, is useful to highlight the hallway area.

In addition to the main structural elements, to create it you will need:

• Dowel-nails (6x40 or 6x60 mm) - installation of the profile to the ceilings.
• Self-tapping screws for metal (LB 9 or LB 11) - fastening frame elements.
• Self-tapping drywall piercing screws (MN 25 or MN 30) – cladding installation.
• Sealing (damper) tape - a gasket between the guide profile and the main floors.
• Corner profile (PU) - reinforcement of the joint of sheathing sheets at the corners of the doorway.

The whole structure will be mounted using three types of fasteners

Master's advice: When purchasing everything you need, at the same time purchase materials for sealing joints between sheets and masking the areas for screwing in self-tapping screws on the surface of the skin - a reinforcing sickle tape, a primer for gypsum boards, and finishing putty.

Measurements + consumables calculation table

To avoid unnecessary financial costs and eliminate the need for additional purchase of material, you should correctly calculate its required amount. There is no difficulty in this event - you need to measure the height and length of the proposed structure and determine its main parameters (profile width and number of skin layers). Consider the calculation of the material, taking as an example a partition 5 meters long and 3 meters high with a doorway 0.8 meters wide and 2.1 meters high, with a profile frame 75 mm wide and single-layer sheathing with plasterboard sheets.

• Guide profile (UW). We calculate the perimeter of our structure (5 m + 3 m) * 2 = 16 m. Subtract from this value the width of the doorway (0.8) and get 15.2 m. It is known that the height of the partition is 3 m, therefore, we will definitely need two three-meter strips, which we will fix entirely, vertically to the bearing walls. The rest of the length of 9.2 m will be covered with three four-meter strips of the profile (12 m), and the excess (2.8 m) will be useful for reinforcing the frame at the door installation site and mounting jumpers between the posts.

  The black color indicates the UW profile, which forms the outline of the structure

• Rack profile (CW). Given the standard width of the GKL sheet (1.2 m), the vertical racks of the frame must be mounted in increments of no more than 0.6 m, so that the joints of the plates are connected on one profile, and one more element is in the middle of the sheet.

  Frame racks should be mounted at a distance of no more than 600 mm from each other

• Knowing the length of the partition, we can calculate the number of racks by dividing 5 m by 0.6 and as a result we get 8 strips 3 meters long (the indicator is determined in accordance with the height of the structure).

  The gray color marks the vertical posts of the partition frame from the CW profile

• Profile for a doorway. At the door installation site, we will have to move one post, reinforcing it with a guide profile strip, the same constructive solution will be applied on the other side of the opening. Thus, we need another three-meter rack profile (CW) and two guide strips (UW), the same length. To decorate the upper part of the doorway, a segment of the guide profile 1.0 m long will be used.

  Green color highlights two load-bearing reinforced racks, blue - lintel (upper beam) of the doorway

• Profile for jumpers between racks. To increase the strength of the frame, horizontal jumpers from the guide profile are installed between the posts at a height of 1.5 m. This will require another UW strip 3 m long and the excess that remained when calculating the contour of the partition.

  Jumpers from the UW profile are marked in blue, increasing the overall rigidity of the structure

• Drywall. As a material for sheathing, we use sheets (plates) of GKL 3000 long, 1200 wide and 12.5 mm thick. To close one side of the frame, we need five sheets, two of which will be used entirely, and the remaining three will have to be cut to size. The calculation of drywall for the second side of the partition is performed so that the joints of the sheets do not intersect, but are shifted by half the sheet. Five slabs are also needed here - two full and three trimmed.

  On one side of the frame, the sheathing sheets will be arranged in this way

  The second side of the frame must be closed with the sheets offset by one post or 600 mm

Advice of the master: Double-sided installation of GKL sheets with offset joints will increase the rigidity of the structure, significantly reducing the possibility of deformation and reducing the likelihood of cracks on the surface of the material. If you need a more durable partition - use two layers of drywall when sheathing it.

Summing up the calculations, we can conclude that to create a 5x3 m plasterboard partition with a doorway, we need:

• guide profile (UW–75) 3 meters - 5 strips;
• guide profile (UW–75) 4 meters - 3 lanes;
• rack profile (CW–75) 3 meters - 9 strips;
• drywall (GKL 1200x3000x12.5 mm) - 10 sheets.

The number of hardware (fasteners) is calculated based on the step of their installation. The maximum distance between the dowels that fasten the guide profile to the floors should not exceed 500 mm, and self-tapping drywall screws are mounted every 250–300 mm.

The engineers of the German company KNAUF - the world leader in the production of materials and technologies for frame construction - have prepared a table that will help us when performing calculations.

Position	Name	Unit measurements	Quantity per sq. m
1	KNAUF-list (GKL, GKLV, GKLO)	sq. m	2,0
2	KNAUF profile PN 50/40 (75/40, 100/40)	linear m	0,7
3	KNAUF profile PS 50/50 (75/50, 100/50)	linear m	2,0
4	Screw TN 25	PCS.	29
5	Putty Knauf-Fugen	kg	0,6
6	Reinforcing tape	linear m	1,5
7	Dowel K 6/35	PCS.	1,6
8	Sealing tape	linear m	1,2
9	Primer Knauf-Tifengrund	l	0,2
10	Mineral wool insulation Knauf	sq. m	1,0
11	Knauf profile PU	PCS.	*

* Note that the number of corner profiles (PU) depends on the size of the doorway and is not related to the construction area.

Attention! To simplify calculations during the construction of a plasterboard partition, you can use a special online calculator that shows the approximate consumption of the base material and all other components.

How to do it yourself: step by step instructions

So, all the important stages of preparation for work have been completed, let's be patient, enlist the support of loved ones, get the approval of the neighbors and proceed to the installation of the structure.

Advice of the master: Any construction work using drywall should be carried out at an air temperature in the room not lower than +15 C. Installation of structures is best done before finishing the floors and painting. Before measures to create a partition, the surface of the main floors should be leveled, filling potholes, seams and cracks with putty.

Layout and layout

Before proceeding with the installation of the structure, we will determine the place of its installation and draw up a schematic plan, according to which the markup will be carried out. This stage of work is as follows:

Attention! It should be remembered that the line we have applied is a mark for attaching the guide profile. To determine the exact boundary of the structure itself, here you need to add the thickness of the drywall boards and the layer of its finish.

Lathing installation

Having finished with the markup, we will carefully check the correctness of its application and proceed to the manufacture of the metal frame of our partition:

1. An angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors will cut pieces of the UW guide profile of the desired length. On the back side of the blanks, we will stick a sealing damper tape that softens sound vibrations and vibrations that will be transmitted to the structure from the main floors.

   Sealing damper tape will protect the structure from sound vibrations and vibration

2. We fix the strips along the horizontal marking line by drilling holes for dowel-nails with a puncher (in increments of no more than 400–500 mm) and hammering the fasteners with a hammer. Experienced craftsmen advise starting with the top rail located on the ceiling, since it will be easier to “shoot through” with a plumb line the correct installation of the floor profile.

   We drill holes for the dowel-nails with a puncher and hammer the fasteners with a hammer

3. Let's install vertical guides, fixing them to the bearing walls (with the same step) along the marking line and controlling the correct installation using the building level. Note that fastening a metal profile to brick walls with a thick layer of plaster will require the use of longer dowel-nails (6x60 or 8x60).

   When mounting the guides to the bearing walls, we check the vertical using the building level

4. We will form a doorway by installing racks made of a reinforced profile in the marked place. Let's measure the distance between the lower and upper part of the frame contour, be sure to subtract 10 mm from this value and cut off two strips of the CW profile of this size. There are several options for reinforcing parts - you can insert the guide profile into the rack and fix it on both sides with self-tapping screws for metal (every 150-200 mm) or you can strengthen the CW strip with a dry wooden beam, picking it up in size, inserting it inside and also fastening it with self-tapping screws.

   We insert the rack profile into the guide and fasten the structure with metal screws

5. We install a reinforced stand in the floor guide of the frame, bring the top of the strip into the ceiling (this is where a 10 mm gap comes in handy), check the strict vertical of the element with a level and fix the part with metal screws. We mount the second rack in the same way.

   When installing the rack, first install it in the lower rail, then carefully insert it into the upper

6. Let's set the racks from the CW profile with a step of 600 mm, starting from any of the load-bearing walls. The installation process of these elements completely coincides with the installation of reinforced racks - we cut the parts into strips 10 mm less than the distance between the guides, we check the verticality with a level, we perform fasteners with metal screws. Note that the step size of 600 mm should fall in the middle of the rack profile, since it is at this point that the sheathing sheets with a standard width of 1200 mm will be joined.

   The rack profile is attached to the rails with metal screws

7. We will mount the horizontal jumper (upper beam) of the doorway. We cut off a piece 200 mm longer than the distance between the reinforced posts from the guide profile strip. We measure 100 mm from each edge of the part and cut the side parts perpendicular to the base, leaving it intact. Carefully bend these segments inward and get a profile strip of the desired size with blind ends.

   Inside the upper beam of the opening, you can insert a wooden beam, further reinforcing the structure

8. We will install a jumper between the posts of the opening in the right place (we will take into account the height of the door block, as well as the possibility of further installation of the finishing floor covering), check the horizontal with a building level and fix the part with self-tapping screws for metal. This structural element can also be strengthened in any of the ways mentioned.
9. If the height of the room at the installation site of the partition exceeds 3 m, it will be necessary to manufacture and install additional stiffeners - transverse jumpers between the racks. The parts are made in the same way as the upper beam of the doorway and are attached to the CW rack profile with metal self-tapping screws.

   Option for the location of transverse jumpers in a frame with a height of more than 3 m

10. Inside the finished frame of the partition, we will install embedded elements from a profile, strong thick plywood or timber, to which it will be possible to attach hanging cabinets, heavy mirrors and sconces. After that, we will mount the electrical wiring, laying it in a special corrugated pipe, and also lay all the necessary communications and pipelines.

    The wooden beam must be fixed at the installation sites of heavy hanging cabinets and other massive interior elements.

This completes the installation of the frame, you can proceed to the next, no less important step in creating the partition.

Sheathing of the frame with the installation of heat and sound insulation

In order for the structure to reliably store heat and protect peace from extraneous noise, its insides must be filled with a special insulating material. Long-term practice shows that an inexpensive, but high-quality heat and sound insulator - mineral (stone or basalt) wool - is quite suitable for these purposes.

Mineral wool slabs will reliably retain heat, as well as isolate the room from extraneous noise

Master's advice: In order to fill the frame of the interior partition, purchase mineral wool slabs or mats of the required thickness - the material of this form of manufacture is easily cut to size and fits comfortably between the elements of the crate.

Before installing a layer of heat and sound insulation inside the structure, perform the following steps:

1. We will sheathe one side of the frame with drywall, starting from the whole sheet from the wall where the 600 mm step counting began for racks from the CW profile. Remember that when installing the GKL, it is imperative to leave a gap of 5-10 mm at the junction of the plate with the ceiling and floor. The material tends to expand with changes in temperature and humidity, and a “blind” installation in a spacer can lead to its deformation and cracking.

   The cladding is mounted from a whole sheet from the wall where the set of racks began

2. We fasten the cladding sheet to the profile, twisting self-tapping screws for gypsum boards around the entire perimeter in increments of 250–300 mm. We recess the heads of self-tapping screws into the drywall to a depth of 0.5–0.8 mm.

   The heads of self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the drywall surface.

3. With a jigsaw or a knife, we cut the rest of the sheathing elements to size and fasten them in such a way that the sheets are joined exactly in the middle of the rack profile.

   We join drywall sheets exactly in the middle of the profile

4. Having closed one side of the frame, we lay the insulating material inside, cutting it with a small allowance and inserting it between the racks by surprise.

   Mineral wool cut to size slabs are laid between the racks of the crate

5. We mount the cladding on the other side of the partition, shifting the sheets by 600 mm (one rack) relative to the closed part of the surface - this method of attaching the cladding will significantly increase the strength of the structure.

   We close the other side of the frame with gypsum plasterboard, shifting the sheet by one rack (600 mm)

6. We will strengthen the joints and edges of the sheets at the installation site of the doorway with an angular profile.

Attention! When mounting the cladding from the GKL, remember that the sheet must be fixed around the entire perimeter - to attach the extension or parts of a non-standard size, you will have to insert additional profile elements into the frame.

final chords

Having finished the sheathing of the partition frame, we will insert a door block into it and solve the issue of finishing the surface of the drywall. If a strict vertical was observed during the installation of the opening, the installation of the block will not cause any difficulties.

The issue with the surface finish of the skin is also solved quite simply:

Now the partition with the door is ready for any kind of finishing - it can be wallpapered, painted, ceramic tiles or decorative plaster applied - it depends only on your imagination and financial capabilities. For a more detailed acquaintance with the installation process of a frame structure sheathed with drywall, we bring to your attention the following video.

Video: How to build a GKL partition and install a door

Many years of professional experience shows that our fellow citizens are increasingly choosing drywall for the installation of additional load-bearing walls or interior partitions in their homes. This material is easy to handle and allows you to create such structures without resorting to the help of a team of builders, whose services are not cheap at all. We hope that now you will be able to do this work yourself without any problems.

The modern choice of finishing materials allows you to easily carry out repairs of any complexity in your own apartment or house. The main thing is that the necessary set of tools and detailed instructions are available.

The delimitation of space in a room has long ceased to be a problem, since you can easily make a simple plasterboard partition with your own hands. Drywall is a fairly affordable and easy-to-work material. It has a lot of pros and almost no cons.

1. Light weight.
2. Low price.
3. Ease of processing.
4. Good soundproofing.
5. No "wet" and dirty work during installation.
6. Variety of finishes on the outer layer.
7. The framework allowing laying of any communications.

Plasterboard structures of any configuration are usually mounted on a metal profile. It is impractical to use a wooden frame structure: the tree rots, deforms over time, working with it requires additional effort and the availability of a special tool. And the cost of wooden bars is not lower than a metal profile.

Other Required Materials

1. Sealing tape.
2. Reinforcing tape for fastening seams.
3. Self-tapping screws for metal.
4. Self-tapping screws with a press washer.
5. Dowel nails.
6. Putty for sealing joints between sheets of drywall.
7. Acrylic primer.
8. Drywall sheets 12-14 mm thick.

What is the profile for drywall

Ordinary and familiar ceiling profiles for siding cannot be used for the installation of plasterboard structures. They are too fragile and unreliable. For drywall, special fittings are used: reinforced guides and rack-mount metal profiles. Guide fittings are used to fasten drywall to the ceiling or walls. There are 4 guide profile markings, depending on the thickness of the material. The thinnest - 50 by 40 mm, the widest - 100 by 40 mm. The length for all sizes is the same - 3 meters.

Rack fittings are also divided into 4 types: from 50 to 50 mm to 100 to 50 mm. As can be seen from the markings, the widest profile is the strongest and most reliable. The length of the rack profile varies from 3 to 4 meters. The rack profile, from which the vertical frame of the plasterboard partition is formed, is not recommended to be extended in length, otherwise the structure will not have sufficient strength.

Tools required for the construction of a drywall partition

After all the necessary tools and materials have been purchased, you should carefully consider the future design of the partition and its location in the room.

On the second wall, exactly such marks are made. They must match. You can check the accuracy of the markup as follows: you need to draw a straight line across the floor from one mark on the wall to the second. If the lines match, then the markup is correct. Along these lines, a plasterboard partition will be attached to the wall and to the floor.

In the same way, marks are measured on the ceiling. It is important that the line on the floor is strictly perpendicular to the markings on the ceiling. In this case, the future partition will not have a roll or skew in any direction.

After the markup is applied, you can begin mounting the profile on the walls, floor and ceiling. Guide fittings are screwed to the ceiling. A rack profile is attached to the walls and floor.

A sealing rubberized tape is placed between the wall and the profile. This material is designed for tight coupling of load-bearing wall structures with a partition. Also, the sealing tape plays the role of a buffer when the temperature and humidity climate in the room changes, due to which the drywall construction may slightly shrink or expand. The tape will protect it from cracks and deformation.

To get into the room, fenced off by a partition, you need a passage, under which profiles are specially mounted. If you plan to insert the door into the partition structure, then the doorway needs to be strengthened. This can be done in several ways.

1. Insert into each other and fasten the rack profiles.
2. Insert a wooden beam inside the profile.
3. Strengthen the profile with a steel frame.
4. Place two rack profiles side by side.

According to experts, the first method is the most optimal, but only if the intended door is made of lightweight materials, and the estimated weight does not exceed 45 kg. For heavier door panels, it is recommended to purchase a special reinforced rack profile, the thickness of which exceeds 2 mm.

Under the doorway, you need to leave the desired width (web size) and add another 8 cm to the existing size for the door frame.

After the door profile is exposed, the upper jumper is exposed and fastened between them.

The next step is to reinforce the structure with reinforced rack profiles. From the mounted doorway, a vertical crate of fittings is made, from floor to ceiling, the step is 40-50 cm. After completion of the work, a kind of cage is obtained, with a vertically attached profile.

It's important to know

Rack profiles are required to be mounted in a certain order: the stiffener should be directed in the direction from which the plasterboard lining of the frame will begin. This is due to the fact that you need to fasten the first sheets of drywall from the side of the rib, the next - to the rest of the rack profile. If you do not follow the recommended frame sheathing technology, the partition will turn out to be convex or deformed.

If you plan to lay communications (electric wires, computer and television cables), it is desirable that the holes for the wires are at the same level.

If it is planned to hang a picture or a lamp on the partition, then a transverse jumper from the profile must be pre-mounted in the metal frame. The place of the jumper should be noted in order to further attach the accessory using self-tapping screws to the profile.

The width of the partition can be varied. The thinnest partition consists of a single frame. If a stronger and more reliable structure is required, the profile can be mounted in several layers. Thanks to this, it is possible to improve the soundproofing and heat-saving performance of the partition.

Facing the erected frame from the profile with drywall

Rules for cutting sheet material

When attaching the material to a metal profile, the sheet should be less than the height of the walls and 1 cm from the floor. When cutting the facing material, make sure that the cardboard and gypsum core are cut off with a special knife for cutting drywall. This will protect the material from cracking and breakage during cutting into fragments of the required size.

It is desirable to process the edges with a peeling planer, then with the help of an edge planer a chamfer is cut at the ends, having an angle of 20-22 degrees.

It is worth knowing that sheets can only be joined on a metal profile, therefore, when cutting drywall, the step between the rack fittings should be taken into account.

The sheets obtained after cutting are attached to the metal profile using self-tapping screws, at least 3 cm long. Screw the screws to the profile after 15-20 cm, at the jumpers and joints of the sheets, this distance can be reduced to 10 cm. , optimally - 15 mm from the edge.

When fixing the facing material, it is not necessary to embed the self-tapping screws into the drywall too much, maximum by 1 mm. Embedded hats can be puttied later.

After one side of the partition is lined with drywall, you can proceed with the installation of soundproofing material and laying communications inside the structure.

Communication wires are passed through special holes in the metal profile.

For sound insulation, you can use mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, isover. Each type of material has a whole range of useful properties, for example, expanded polystyrene can be used in rooms with high humidity.

To soundproof the partition, the material is cut into fragments and placed inside sections from the profile. It is important to choose a material of a certain thickness that will not stick out due to the edges of the metal profile. After placing the soundproofing material, you can proceed to facing the second side of the partition.

After the construction of the drywall construction, it is required to give it a presentable appearance. To do this, a layer of primer is applied to the surface of the material, which will protect the wall from moisture and corrosion.

After priming, the drywall is puttied, leveling out all the irregularities, hiding the fastener caps, seams. Putty is applied to the seams between the sheets, leveled, then, until it dries, a reinforcing tape is attached to the top of the putty and recessed with a spatula.

Video - Installation of a large partition in a private house

It is worth knowing that if a plasterboard partition is pasted over with wallpaper, then its surface must be completely puttied. This is due to the fact that seams can be visible through thin wallpaper and spoil the whole look of the structure. There is another reason: the surface of the material is made of cardboard. If you stick wallpaper on cardboard, then after a while they cannot be removed by anything. You will have to glue new wallpaper on top of the old ones.

Do not use facade putty for interior work. This material may release toxic substances and be harmful to health.

For the construction of a partition in places with unstable humidity and temperature indicators, it is recommended to use special drywall sheets. They are painted green and have good moisture resistance. This material can be tiled.

Video - Installation of a KNAUF plasterboard partition

We bring to your attention a master class on the manufacture of plasterboard partitions. In the article you will find all the information necessary for a novice installer. We will also designate the technological and operational features of the GKL piers.

Partitions made of drywall panels, assembled on a metal frame, have long been considered classics of the genre. Abroad, such designs have been successfully used for several decades. They appeared in our country in the nineties and literally fascinated developers and professional builders with their functionality. At first, it was difficult to find all the necessary materials, and there was almost no information about the technology of mounting frame partitions (the craftsmen had to work using their general construction knowledge and often primordially Russian ingenuity). Now we have fully complete systems and detailed technological maps from manufacturers at our disposal. Never before has the organization of the internal space been so simple. These are truly versatile systems that are especially good for redevelopment during renovations.

Now, after many years of trouble-free operation of drywall walls, we can safely say that the fears of skeptics regarding reliability and durability have not materialized. Such partitions can be enclosing structures inside any heated premises, including where it is damp, fire resistance, and penetration protection are needed.

Ten Reasons to Choose Drywall Partitions

Let's look at the main advantages of GKL partitions. We will limit ourselves to ten points, but in fact this list is much longer:

1. dry technology. Okay, almost dry - there's no getting away from puttying, but this is nothing compared to any other options that require full-fledged plastering or so-called leveling. In addition, brick or block masonry itself also needs to be dried.
2. The weight. Again, no competition. The load on the subfloor or ceiling will be minimal (for a single-layer lining, the mass per square meter is about 25-30 kg). You can safely mount such a partition over wet and dry screeds, wooden floors, on weak Khrushchev slabs, etc.
3. Load bearing capacity. There has never been such a thing that it was impossible to reliably hang something on a plasterboard wall. Volumetric dowels for hollow structures work wonders - on a sheet 12.5 mm thick, one attachment point holds up to 30 kg. Officially (data from the Knauf company): a kitchen cabinet 30 cm deep and 80 cm wide, suspended on two fasteners (one layer of plasterboard), can be safely loaded up to 50 kg. This is anywhere on an unprepared wall. The figures are much more interesting if you fix objects to rack profiles or with multi-layer sheathing of the frame. Very heavy things (up to 150 kg) can be mounted on such walls if wooden or steel embedded elements are provided inside the partition. Boiler, cast-iron radiator, ceramic washbasin - no problem. How to do this - we will tell below.
4. Soundproofing. It is always possible to lay acoustic insulating materials between the supporting profiles. For a normal living space, the right mineral wool will provide the best sound absorption of air waves among all partitions of the same thickness (insulation index from 44 to 56 dB). Impact noise is localized by the use of damper pads under the guide profiles. A properly assembled drywall partition does not “bump”, the profiles do not “rumble” when the interior door is closed. If you need to create a super-protected space, you can apply multi-layer lining, cladding with special panels, assemble a complex frame (two rows of racks). With an array, the same results cannot be achieved.
5. Moisture resistance. Moisture-resistant drywall works great in bathrooms, especially if it is covered with a special mastic. Excellent performance is demonstrated by all kinds of cement-based aquapanels. If there are very unfavorable neighbors upstairs, then the “green” HA can be applied throughout the apartment, and in order to protect the cotton wool from getting wet, the mats can be wrapped with polyethylene. Profiles for the subsystem are also not afraid of moisture, as they are galvanized.
6. The presence of cavities. Inside the frame partitions it is very convenient to carry out various engineering communications. This is an excellent outlet for the kitchen and bathroom, where it is necessary to dilute the sewerage, plumbing, heating, and electrics. For the convenience of mounting tracks in metal racks, there is a special perforation, additional windows can be cut out with a grinder. Mortise electrical boxes and shields, plumbing boxes, etc. can be easily placed in the partition.
7. Any configuration. Partitions of any shape are available: round, wave, with oblique angles, niches, arches, openings. The possible height is up to 9.5 meters, the length is not limited (only compensating expansion joints are needed every 15 meters). You can fix the partition to the false ceiling and to sheathed walls (both on the frame and on the mounting adhesive).
8. Penetration protection. A topical issue in public spaces - offices, warehouses, offices and more. The problem is effectively solved by more frequent arrangement of racks (30 cm along the axes), multi-layer sheathing and screwing to the frame (immediately along the profiles or between the layers of the cladding) sheets of galvanized metal 0.5-1 mm thick.
9. Low cost. With a traditional single-layer sheathing, a plasterboard partition is about half the price of a brick one (with plastering) and by about 15-20% compared to tongue-and-groove gypsum systems. This applies to both the cost of materials and installation costs.
10. Ease of installation. Anyone can master the technology, it is much easier than sheathing walls or ceilings. The fact is that here you don’t need to set up a frame by thread, which is usually a real stumbling block for beginners. Although the installation is painted by the developers inside and out, in fact, the frame GKL partitions forgive their builders many shortcomings and mistakes. Cracks and differences in planes on partitions are a rarity. And yet, from the power tool you only need a screwdriver and, possibly, a light hammer drill. The speed of construction is a record. Two qualified people (a master installer and an assistant) can easily assemble a frame and sew up a partition with an area of ​​​​about 15-20 m 2 in an eight-hour shift.

Technology for the construction of plasterboard partitions

It is best to start installation after the installation of the subfloor (it is easier to mark the contours on good planes) - although technologically wet and dry screeds can be done after partitions. As we have already said, wall frames can be fixed to ceilings and walls wired with plasterboard. In other words, there are no restrictions in this regard. One person can erect the frame of the partition and produce sheathing, but the markup has to be done together, since a chopping cord and a plumb line are used everywhere. The most productive work will be in the master + assistant link.

markup

In order to take out the dimensions and location of the partition from the drawings in kind, as a rule, they are repelled from any load-bearing wall. If our frame runs parallel, we simply set aside two points at the required distance and connect them, it’s a little more difficult to achieve perpendicularity. Very short partitions can be marked with a large square, or if you attach a sheet of drywall in place.

However, for large structures, errors from manual fixtures can be critical, and it is better to use a laser tool (square, builder). A good way to get an exact right angle is to draw an Egyptian triangle in which the mutually perpendicular sides are a multiple of 3 and 4, and the diagonal is a multiple of 5.

We recommend marking lines for plasterboard partitions with a chopping cord, a tracer. First, the contours of the partition are measured and marked on the floor, and only then transferred to the ceiling, although some manuals suggest doing the opposite. When working with a tracer, be very careful that the cord does not cling to anything, be sure to carefully sweep the floor.

Now, with the help of a plumb line, we transfer our markup to the ceiling. For each line, you need to have two risks, which we will also connect with a tracer. One person presses the plumb line to the ceiling and, at the command of the assistant, smoothly shifts it until the tip is aligned with the bottom line. The one who corrects the weight at the floor should gently stop the cone with his fingers, preventing it from swinging. When everything came together, a mark is placed along the axis of the thread.

Interestingly, some installers mark the ceiling from an already drilled profile, but the PN shelves are often bent somewhere, which significantly distorts the picture.

At this stage, we suggest immediately marking points on the floor that indicate the edges of the doorway, if any. Most importantly, do not forget to leave a margin of 20-30 mm, so that later a mounting gap of 10-15 mm is formed near the door block on each side.

We strongly recommend (although few people do this) to connect the ceiling line with the floor line on the wall with a tracer - at this stage this is done quickly and easily. So we get a vertical markup to control the installation of the wall profile.

Frame assembly

The width and length of the used profiles is selected depending on the required parameters of the partition. In most cases, the frame made of PN-75 and PS-75 profiles will be optimal in width, which, with a single-layer lining, form a wall 100 mm wide. It makes sense to use the fiftieth profiles only if the cladding will be done in two layers.

Before installation, the PN profile (guide profile or UW) must be pasted over with a damper tape from below. Also, for anti-vibration decoupling of partitions with enclosing structures, a sealant can be used, which is applied on the back side with two threads in special grooves.

We lay the prepared PN segments along the marking lines and fix them through the mounting holes. Fastening into the mineral massif is carried out with dowels "quick mounting" 6x40 mm - it is necessary to drill holes with a perforator. In hollow structures, holes are drilled with a drill and special drop-down dowels are used. For metal and wooden bases, self-tapping screws with a press washer are used.

During fixation, in addition to line control, be sure to apply a rule to the PN from the side, since even a high-quality and wide profile is easily bent by an arc. In the area of ​​​​the doorway, the profiles are fixed with two dowels; for reliability, even more fasteners can be installed.

Attention! The installation of the guide profile on the floor should be done first of all, so as not to fall asleep and trample the marking line.

End vertical profiles are inserted into the ceiling and floor guides. Sometimes here, by analogy with false walls, they put PN, but it is more technologically advanced to use PS, since two guides superimposed on each other at the corners of the frame then slightly distort the plane. Then the extreme PSs are pressed against the wall, in accordance with the markings and with the obligatory use of the rule, they are fixed.

Now that the full perimeter of the partition is in place, you need to mark the points for installing the racks. The step of PS profiles (UW) must be a multiple of the sheet width (1200 mm) - 30, 40, 60 cm along the axes. The first option is anti-burglary, the third one is for ordinary walls in residential premises. The second step of 40 cm is the most common, it is also mandatory for arranging partitions that are tiled, and also if three-layer lining is used.

The marks, according to which the PS is installed in the design position, are set with a tape measure on the shelves of the guide profile, and on both sides of it. Unlike the arrangement of false walls, these marks do not indicate the centers of the rack profiles, but their edges. We recommend that the first marks on the ceiling and on the floor be correlated with each other using a plumb line, and then measure the rest from them, so all the racks will become strictly vertical.

We prepare PS-profiles piece by piece along the length and insert them into the guides. The length of the posts should be 10 mm less than the height of the room at a particular point; for sagging floors and in seismic zones, this gap should be 20 mm. If utility lines pass inside the partition, then insert the rack profiles so that the perforation windows are opposite each other - then the route will run strictly horizontally.

Attention! The shelves of all substations must be oriented in the same direction, with the exception of only one rack that forms the doorway.

Rack profiles with the help of cutting pliers or self-tapping screws LN 9 mm with a drilling end are fixed to the PN shelves. This is done on both sides of the partition, near the floor and near the ceiling.

The next step is to form the frame of the opening. If a door block is installed here, then the racks need to be reinforced. To do this, two PS profiles are assembled into a rectangular box. As an addition, a dry, even beam is inserted into it to the full height from one side of the section 40 mm (it will freely enter the box). After inserting the beam, the prefabricated element of the opening is scrolled with LN self-tapping screws from the facing side and TN 25 self-tapping screws from the opening side (the wooden beam is attracted to the metal). If you use a perfectly prepared timber that will fill the PS from shelf to shelf, then there is no point in assembling a box-shaped structure to organize an opening.

A jumper should be installed between the racks at the required height (be sure to take into account what mark the finishing floor will rise to, and make a gap margin above the door of 2-2.5 cm). The jumper is made from trimming PN, which is cut out in the form of a double-sided "stick". Also, the short parts of the "club" can be bent down. We fasten this element strictly horizontally through the eyes to the racks, using four or five self-tapping screws on each side.

Short PS profiles are inserted between the jumper and the ceiling PN; they must be spaced from other frame elements with a given pitch in order to ensure the joining of the sheathing sheets. It is also necessary to orient their shelves in the right direction.

Sheathing of the subsystem with sheets

Facing panels with long edges with a thinned edge must be joined in the middle of the rack profiles without fail. The sheets are mounted in the direction where the shelves of PS profiles look, then the shelves will not bend under the action of self-tapping screws. If there are not enough sheets in height to close the entire partition, then they must be placed with a difference in height between the joints.

Drywall is put in the design position and scrolled with TN self-tapping screws for metal with an interval of no more than 250 mm. 15 mm should be retreated from the edge of the short side, and at least 10 mm from the edge of the thinned edge. At the joints of adjacent sheets, self-tapping screws should go with a run-out of 10-20 mm. All fasteners are screwed in strictly at right angles to the frame so that the pot head does not break through the top cardboard layer.

Attention! Between the sheet and the enclosing structures, a gap of 7-10 mm should be maintained, therefore, temporary linings suitable for the thickness are used in the floor area.

In order for the short joints of the sheets to also be on the metal, measured sections of the TsD or PN / PS profiles are screwed to them between the racks. When screwing in the self-tapping screws of the additional short sheet, one should not press hard on the jumper so as not to tear it off the panel on which it is already fixed.

If the sewing is carried out in several layers, then the vertical joints of sheets of different tiers must be made on different racks.

A very important point is the docking of drywall on the opening. To avoid cracks, the sheet should always be wound onto a short post located above the door (at least 20 cm).

When the lining of the partition on one side is made, it is possible to carry out the necessary communications, insert embedded elements. It is convenient to use moisture-resistant plywood 20-30 mm thick as mortgages for heavy objects, OSB and dry timber can also be suitable. Sheets of plywood of a suitable size through the body of drywall (between the racks) in the specified places are screwed with a large number of self-tapping screws. Mortgages for low-lying weights (for example, heating radiators) can rest against the floor.

At this stage, a soundproof layer is laid in the cavity of the gypsum board wall, after which the frame is sewn on the other side. Sheets entering the opening are cut off with a saw and a knife, the cut edges of all panels are embroidered.

Attention! The joints of the sheets with which different sides of the partition are sheathed should not fall on the same bearing rack.

The device of corners and junctions

Docking of GKL partitions (T-shaped and corner) should be done only through a sheet of drywall. It is recommended to fasten the mating frame with metal screws (35 mm long) to the mortgage post of the adjacent wall, therefore additional substations should be provided in the right places.

A difficult knot is an indirect angle. To organize it, the extreme profiles of the PS of the mating planes are installed in the guides as close as possible to each other, and then on both sides of the corner they are twisted with curved strips of galvanized metal with a thickness of 0.5 mm. The bandwidth should be sufficient to reach neighboring substations. The corner is tied to the entire height of the seam.

Round plasterboard partition

To make a curved partition, the guide profile is cut with a grinder into sectors 5-10 cm wide. Along the outlined radius, the PN is fixed with a large number of fasteners - at least one dowel / self-tapping screw must be used for each sector.

Racks on roundings are inserted with an interval of no more than 300 mm and are fixed in the design position in accordance with the general rules.

Radius sheathing can be done in three ways:

1. Two layers of arched drywall 6 mm thick are placed horizontally. The pairing of the two-layer sheathing with flexible sheets and the single-layer sheathing of the main partition must be brought to the plane of the main wall.
2. A 12.5 mm wall plasterboard panel is pricked with a spiked roller, moistened by spraying and deformed on a template, after which it is screwed horizontally (the minimum allowable radius is 1000 mm). Rolling is performed from the front side for the outer arc and from the back side of the sheet for the inner arc.
3. The 12.5 mm wall sheet is cut into sectors about 5 cm wide (the remaining layer of paper cannot be damaged) and screwed vertically to the frame. Then the structure is stretched with putty.

As you can see, the technology for making drywall partitions is quite simple. If you perform all operations carefully and follow the rules indicated by us, you can assemble any piers of any complexity, because this is just a constructor.

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