Blog of Dmitry Evtifeev. Infrared filters for photography
I don’t know about you, but I’ve always wondered: what would the world look like if the RGB color channels in the human eye were sensitive to a different wavelength range? After rummaging around, I found infrared flashlights (850 and 940 nm), a set of IR filters (680-1050 nm), a black and white digital camera (no filters at all), 3 lenses (4mm, 6mm and 50mm) designed for photography in IR light. Well, let's try to see.
On the topic of IR photography with removing the IR filter on the hub - this time we will have more opportunities. Also photographs with other wavelengths in RGB channels (most often capturing the IR region) can be seen in posts from Mars and in general.
These are flashlights with IR diodes: 2 left ones at 850nm, the right one at 940nm. The eye sees a faint glow at 840 nm, the right one only in complete darkness. For an IR camera they are dazzling. The eye seems to retain microscopic sensitivity to near-IR + the LED radiation comes with lower intensity and at shorter (=more visible) wavelengths. Naturally, you need to be careful with powerful IR LEDs - if you are lucky, you can unnoticed get a burn to the retina (as with IR lasers) - the only thing that saves you is that the eye cannot focus the radiation to a point.
Black and white 5 megapixel noname USB camera - on Aptina Mt9p031 sensor. I spent a long time shaking the Chinese about black and white cameras - and one seller finally found what I needed. There are no filters in the camera at all - you can see from 350nm to ~1050nm. 
Lenses: this one is 4mm, there are also 6 and 50mm. At 4 and 6mm - designed to work in the IR range - without this, for the IR range without refocusing, the pictures would be out of focus (an example will be below, with a conventional camera and IR radiation of 940 nm). It turned out that the C mount (and CS with a flange length different by 5mm) was inherited from 16mm movie cameras of the beginning of the century. Lenses are still actively produced - but for video surveillance systems, including by well-known companies like Tamron (a 4mm lens from them: 13FM04IR). 
Filters: I again found a set of IR filters from the Chinese from 680 to 1050 nm. However, the IR transmittance test gave unexpected results - these do not seem to be bandpass filters (as I imagined), but rather different "densities" of color - which changes the minimum wavelength of light transmitted. Filters after 850nm turned out to be very dense and require long exposures. IR-Cut filter - on the contrary, transmits only visible light, we will need it when shooting money.
Visible light filters: 
IR filters: red and green channels - in the light of a 940 nm flashlight, blue - 850 nm. IR-Cut filter - reflects IR radiation, that's why it has such a cheerful color. 
Let's start shooting
Panorama during the day in IR: red channel - with a filter at 1050 nm, green - 850 nm, blue - 760 nm. We see that trees reflect the very near IR especially well. Colored clouds and colored spots on the ground were caused by the movement of the clouds between frames. Individual frames were combined (if there could be an accidental camera shift) and stitched into 1 color image in CCDStack2 - a program for processing astronomical photographs, where color images are often made from several frames with different filters.
Panorama at night: you can see the difference in color between different light sources: “energy efficient” - blue, visible only in the very near IR. Incandescent lamps are white and shine throughout the entire range. 
Bookshelf: Almost all ordinary objects are virtually colorless in IR. Either black or white. Only some paints have a pronounced “blue” (short-wave IR - 760 nm) tint. LCD screen of the game “Well, wait a minute!” - does not show anything in the IR range (although it works for reflection). 
Cell phone with an AMOLED screen: absolutely nothing is visible on it in IR, as well as the blue indicator LED on the stand. In the background, nothing is visible on the LCD screen either. The blue paint on the metro ticket is IR transparent - and the antenna for the RFID chip inside the ticket is visible. 
At 400 degrees, the soldering iron and hair dryer glow quite brightly: 
Stars
It is known that the sky is blue due to Rayleigh scattering - accordingly, in the IR range it has much lower brightness. Is it possible to see stars in the evening or even during the day against the sky?Photo of the first star in the evening with a regular camera:
IR camera without filter:
Another example of the first star against the background of the city: 
Money
The first thing that comes to mind to verify the authenticity of money is UV radiation. However, banknotes have a lot of special elements that appear in the IR range, including those visible to the eye. We’ve already talked about this on the hub - now let’s see for ourselves:1000 rubles with filters 760, 850 and 1050 nm: only certain elements are printed with ink that absorbs IR radiation: 
5000 rubles: 
5000 rubles without filters, but with lighting different lengths waves:
red = 940nm, green - 850nm, blue - 625nm (=red light): 
However, the infrared money tricks don't end there. The banknotes have anti-Stokes marks - when illuminated with IR light of 940 nm, they glow in the visible range. Photography with a regular camera - as you can see, the IR light passes a little through the built-in IR-Cut filter - but because... The lens is not optimized for IR - the image does not come into focus. Infrared light appears light purple because Bayer's RGB filters are . 
Now, if we add an IR-Cut filter, we will only see luminous anti-Stokes marks. The element above “5000” glows the brightest, it is visible even in dim room lighting and backlighting with a 4W 940nm diode/flashlight. This element also contains a red phosphor - it glows for several seconds after irradiation with white light (or IR->green from the anti-Stokes phosphor of the same label).
The element just to the right of “5000” is a phosphor that glows green for some time after irradiation with white light (it does not require IR radiation). 
Resume
Money in the IR range turned out to be extremely tricky, and you can check it in the field not only with UV, but also with an IR 940nm flashlight. The results of shooting the sky in IR give rise to hope for amateur astrophotography without traveling far beyond the city limits.Would you like to know what it would look like the world around us, if the human eye perceived light rays not only from the so-called “visible spectrum”, but also far beyond it?
One way to see the world as the human eye cannot see it is through infrared photography.
IR filter on the lens, a necessary element for infrared photography
Long ago, from a purely technical, applied field, infrared photography entered the world of artistic photography. By shooting in the infrared range, you can get incredibly beautiful, “cosmic” landscapes.
In general, this type of shooting and subsequent processing is the subject of a separate large article or even a series of articles. But today our goal is simply to get to know the basics.
So how do you get an infrared image? There are many options. Previously, special photographic film was used for this. Specialized digital technology uses special matrices.
But you can try to take an infrared photograph with a simple digital camera.
Infrared Photography Equipment
By and large, the optics of any camera transmit rays in the IR range. But the problem is that the matrices of modern cameras are equipped with special Hot-mirror filters. And these filters often cut off the IR spectrum almost completely.
There is an easy way to check how suitable your DSLR is for infrared photography. Take a regular remote control - for a TV, stereo system, etc. All of them work on the basis of IR rays.
Place your camera on a tripod and, in complete darkness, take as many pictures as you can at different shutter speeds and aperture values. At the same time, keep the remote control pointed at the lens and hold down any button.
If a bright dot appears on the frames taken, it means that your camera’s filter transmits IR rays sufficiently and you can move on. If not, then there are several options. Look for another camera or try to act further “at random”. It is curious that relatively inexpensive soap dishes, rather than sophisticated DSLRs, are often equipped with weak Hot Mirrors.
Experiment with shutter speed and aperture. To achieve your goal, you may need a very long shutter speed to allow the IR rays to penetrate the filter.
Some go to great lengths, tuning the insides of their digital SLRs for IR photography. If you decide to go this route, then for this purpose it is quite possible to inexpensively buy a “donor” from among used DSLRs. The essence of tuning is the mechanical removal of the Low Pass filter, onto which the Hot Mirror filter is usually mechanically sprayed.
On the Internet, especially in English, there are many communities where there are detailed instructions on disassembling and removing filters from different camera models.
Mechanical removal of the filter after disassembling the camera
The second integral part is the purchase of a filter for the lens. The most popular and proven models are Hoya R72 and Cokin 007. But given the expensive cost of IR filters (from $80-100), it makes sense to first test your camera with this filter, and not buy blindly in an online store.
True, there are guides for making an IF filter from improvised materials. But that's a separate conversation.
Landscapes look most interesting in the infrared range. This is due to the fact that, in essence, we record the ability of objects not to emit, but to absorb IR waves. For example, the sky absorbs them in huge quantities and will disappear into blackness in the picture; the greenery of the trees, on the contrary, reflects the rays and will look white in the picture, as if covered with frost on a frosty day.
Considering that when using IR filters, the amount of light falling on the matrix is extremely small, you will have to shoot at long exposures and therefore need a tripod.
Hoya R72 is one of the most popular infrared filters.
In addition, it is worth switching the camera to manual focusing mode, since autofocus can shamelessly lie due to the filter.
Then you should experiment with various parameters exposure, analyzing the results obtained.
After we have received the coveted shot, we should start post-processing. Since a rare shot taken in the infrared range will be a masterpiece without processing.
There are a great variety of processing methods. Let's look at one, the simplest one.
Infrared photography processing
Exists huge amount post-processing technician for infrared images. Let's take a brief look at one of the simplest ones.
When you leave the chamber you will get something like this.
Infrared photo coming out of the camera
If you were shooting in RAW, it makes sense to change the white balance to make the greens as close to pure white as possible.
Then, open the image in Photoshop and adjust the Levels. It is better to do this for each channel separately (Red, Green, Blue).
Approximate view of Levels for a raw image
Correction levels - move the sliders to the edges of the histogram
As a result, our photo will become more contrasty and acquire visual “depth”.
Photo after changing white balance and level correction
The next step is color inversion.
To do this, open Channel Mixer (Image – Adjustments – Channel Mixer.)
Select the red channel and for it we remove Red to 0, and raise Blue to 100
adjusting the Red channel
Then open the Blue channel and do the opposite for it. Red is 100% and Blue is 0%
Adjusting the blue channel
Then click Ok and enjoy the result. To achieve a better effect, you can also work with the color saturation tools – Adjustments – Hue/Saturation
Final IF shot
Examples of infrared photographs
Well, for inspiration, so that you have a desire to try shooting in this technique, here is a large gallery of infrared images.
Before us are two filters through which nothing can be seen. More precisely, through one of them, which has a dark red, almost black color, it is still possible to see something. This infrared filter B+W Infrared Dark Red 092, produced by Schneider Optics, a subsidiary of the Schneider-Kreuznach concern.
Be this one filter one, this material, most likely, would not have appeared. Cokin 007, Hoya R72, Heliopan RG715- these filters, which have been on our market for a long time and have already been fully mastered by photographers, are practically analogues of the “ninety-second”. And in this regard it is unlikely B+W 092 you should expect some surprises.
But from the completely black B+W Infrared Black 093, and this is the second one under consideration filter, surprises are quite possible. Their reason is in the spectral characteristics of this filter in relation to art photography, which are fundamentally different from the characteristics of B+W Infrared Dark Red 092.
Filter B+W Infrared Dark Red 092 blocks visible light up to a wavelength of 650 nm, transmits 50% at 700 nm. From 730 to 2000 nm, more than 90% of radiation is transmitted. Recommended for artistic photography on black and white infrared materials. Increasing exposure for various materials can be 20–40x.
The B+W Infrared Black 093 filter blocks visible light up to a wavelength of 800 nm, transmits 88% at 900 nm. Designed primarily for scientific photography. Rarely used in artistic photography due to the catastrophic drop in photosensitivity of general-purpose black-and-white infrared films.
To put it very briefly, filter 093 only passes infrared radiation, while in the passband 092 of the filter there is a certain proportion of the visible spectrum, which can be recorded, for example, by digital camera sensors.
Filters Available in round threaded frames with diameters from 30.5 mm to 77 mm. True, you won’t find such abundance in Moscow stores, and the range presented is usually limited to the most popular diameters, starting from 58 mm and above.
Received for testing filters with diameter 72 mm. Frankly, we would like 77 mm to work with professional high-aperture zooms (remember that these lenses, as a rule, have just such a mounting thread for filters). However, a way out of the situation was found - a transitional reduction ring of 72/77 mm.
There will be vignetting from the frame filter or not depends on the design of the lens frame and its focal length (more precisely, the angle of the field of view). The only lens where we observed vignetting was the Sigma 10–20/3.5–5.6 EX DC HSM extra-wide-angle zoom (for digital SLR cameras with an APS-C sensor). But even at focal lengths of 10–12 mm, only a slight cutting of the corners of the frame was observed, and starting from f=13 mm it completely disappeared.
Cameras
The fact that the test takers light filters threaded, and large diameter, predetermined the choice of the type of test camera - a reflex camera with interchangeable lenses. And although we did shoot a video of infrared black-and-white photographic film, the main testing tool was a digital camera.
There is information on the Internet about the suitability of a particular digital camera for infrared photography. The matrix itself is sensitive, sometimes even quite significantly, to infrared radiation. But in front of the digital sensor there is light filter(internal IR cut filter), which blocks this radiation. And depending on what the spectral characteristics of the matrix and this filter, depends on how suitable a particular camera is for infrared photography. However, we somehow don’t believe in the absolute unsuitability of modern DSLRs...
We chose Nikon D50 and Canon EOS 350D as test cameras. The first one is considered to be good for infrared photography, and the second - not so much.
The main part of the shooting was done with Nikkor AF 24–120/3.5–5.6, Tokina AF 20–35/2.8 and Tokina AF 80–400/4.5–5.6 lenses on a Nikon D50 camera; EF-S 17–55/2.8 IS USM and EF 28–105/3.5–4.5 II USM - on Canon EOS 350D.
Focusing
Despite the fact that when installed light filter 092 the image in the viewfinder is barely visible, the autofocus system of both cameras turned out to be functional. In conditions of sufficient lighting, for example, during the day outdoors, the cameras focused quite clearly on the object (but it was difficult to see it in the viewfinder).
Does it follow from this that you can rely on camera automation? The answer will be this: depending on which camera, and even then not always. The fact is that in the infrared region of the spectrum the focal plane turns out to be slightly shifted, i.e. the lens draws a sharp image in a slightly different plane than for the visible part of the spectrum. And autofocus is configured to work specifically in the visible range.
There are, however, some nuances here. So, Nikon D50 camera without and with installed filter 092 focused strictly at the same distance. This means that frames taken with autofocus through this infrared filter, will appear out of focus.
WITH digital camera Canon EOS 350D the picture is different. With the filter on, it autofocused at a slightly closer distance, the pictures turned out quite sharp, so manual focus correction was not necessary. As practice has shown, when using the Canon EOS 350D, the correction scale for shooting in the infrared range is suitable for a strong filter 093, and for filter 092 the mark should be moved approximately twice as close to the usual focus mark in the visible range.
When we talk about focus correction, we mean the following. Sometimes on the lens frames, more precisely on the distance scale, there are one or more (in the case of a zoom lens) additional marks to the main one. Their purpose is to adjust the focus of the lens so that after installation infrared filter the image at the camera's focal plane remained sharp. Proceed as follows. First without light filter focus on the subject - automatically or manually. Then, having installed the filter and switched the camera’s autofocus to manual mode, they shift the lens meter scale so that the focusing distance opposite the main mark moves to the “infrared”.
When working with light filter 093 has to do just that. And although cameras were sometimes able to focus through such a black filter, it is still worth recognizing that autofocus systems are not designed to work with it.
Performing this focus correction with filter 092, we got crystal sharp images every time on the Nikon D50 camera. infrared images, and at a fully open aperture. Under exactly the same conditions, the image with filter 093 turned out a little soapy.
What to do if there are no infrared focusing marks on the lens (as a rule, these are budget, inexpensive lenses)? You need to try to independently determine in a practical way at least approximately the required movement and aperture the lens strongly. Aperture, however, will noticeably lengthen shutter speeds, and they are already long for infrared photography. If not long-lasting.
Exposition
Shooting c infrared filters requires an increase in exposure, in practical terms - the shutter speed processed by the shutter. For light filter 092 this increase is significant, for 093 it is very significant.
Nikon D50 exposure metering works quite accurately through filter 092, while the increase in exposure is about 5-6 steps, which is very good. Let's call this exposure the base exposure for infrared photography. But even if the camera’s metering worked inaccurately with a filter or did not work at all (like with 093), it is not difficult to find the basic exposure, at least from the histogram of the image - it should be “good”. By the way, having found a discrepancy between the basic and normal exposures (i.e. for shooting in the visible range of the spectrum) in EV steps, you can not use the camera exposure system, but measure it with an external exposure meter.
Exposure metering on the Canon EOS 350D camera also works through filter 092, but the pictures turn out dark (severe underexposure), and an additional 4-5 steps need to be added. In this case, the total increase in exposure to the base one is 10–11 steps.
Compared to 092, filter 093 will require increasing the exposure by another 4 stops. Thus, when shooting through it, you will have to increase the exposure: for Nikon D50 by 10 stops, for Canon EOS 350D - by 16 (!).
What are 16 steps in practice? For example, on a sunny day at ISO 200, the shutter speed at f/5.6 can be 1/2000 s. An increase of 16 steps lengthens it to... 30 s! And in cloudy weather in poor lighting, minutes will count. So working at high ISO (at the same time shutter speeds will be shorter) is a necessary measure for a Canon camera, but this does not benefit the image. Long shutter speeds and high ISOs are precisely the reasons that complicate infrared photography on the Canon EOS 350D.
When shooting through filter 092, we would recommend not limiting yourself to the basic exposure, but taking an additional 2-3 frames, each time increasing the shutter speed by one more stop. In this case, the picture on the camera’s LCD screen will look simply terrible, and the histogram will show strong overexposure, but it is still advisable to take these additional “defective” frames. We'll tell you why a little later.
Processing
When shooting with both filters The resulting images are highly colored. For 092 the predominant shade is red-orange, for 093 it is red-violet. In any case, most of the outdoor shots with the Nikon camera were exactly like that. (The shade depends on the spectral composition of the lighting, the characteristics of the infrared filter, the characteristics of the internal cut filter and color filters on the matrix, as well as the color interpretation algorithm of the camera processor or computer program.) Therefore, strong white balance correction is inevitable, and it is better to do it in a RAW file. We used Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) and Pixmantec RawShooter 2006 (RS 2006) converters.
When converting an image to black and white, filter 093 turned out to be almost completely problem-free. It is enough to set the white balance with an eyedropper, and the image becomes monochrome gray (or almost so). Yes, it is sluggish, the contrast is greatly reduced, but this can be easily corrected directly in the converter or later in the editor. In a word, filter 093 is an easy and quick conversion of an infrared image into black and white.
The same cannot be said about filter 092. In this case, the picture will never turn out pure black and white. The reason is that, in addition to the infrared filter, this filter also transmits part of the visible part of the spectrum, so the image in the picture is a combination of regular and infrared. So in the converter, despite the fact that the photo will look color, you need to create a good foundation in order to then get a visually pleasing infrared effect in the editor. In a word, you will have to tinker.
How to distinguish a regular one black and white photo from infrared? First of all, in terms of the tone of the green vegetation - it becomes light gray and even almost white. Everything is correct - greenery reflects infrared radiation well, so it should look light. This highlighting of it in the picture is called the wood effect, but it has nothing to do with wood. (In fact, the effect is named after the famous experimental physicist who used ultraviolet and infrared photography in his research - Robert Wood).
As we noticed, some images were converted into black-and-white infrared images quite easily, while others were quite troublesome. In terms of the distribution of tones, the image differed from the usual black and white, but it didn’t look much like infrared either. It is clear that the infrared component of the image was somehow distributed across the RGB channels of the image. It is important to be able to find this information and extract it most effectively.
In photographs taken with the Nikon D50, in most cases the infrared signal was in the blue channel of the image, sometimes in the green and very rarely in the red or all three at the same time. (For other cameras, this relationship may remain the same, but may be different, so do your research on your model.)
In order not to stretch out the “weak” blue channel, we recommend doing several takes when shooting, increasing the exposure relative to the base one. An overexposure of 2–3 stops will be sufficient.
If there is such a stock source material The procedure for converting images taken through filter 092 is greatly simplified. You need to select a frame with the best blue channel and “pull” this channel, not paying attention to the others. This is general scheme, details may vary in each individual case.
And one more thing. Initially, good fullness of the “infrared channel” (for example, blue) will require less conversion in the converter, and therefore there will also be less noise and artifacts in the final image. For example, we received absolutely clean, noise-free infrared images, although the original color frame looked more like an outright defect.
So the time spent on filming takes is completely justified.
Conclusion
Which of the considered infrared filters give preference? For photographers who still remain faithful to film, it is unlikely that it will be B+W Infrared Black 093. To work with it, film is required, the sensitization of which goes far into the infrared region.
But this one light filter allows you to quickly (unless you take into account very long shutter speeds when shooting) and easily obtain digital black and white photographs.
Light filter B+W Infrared Dark Red 092 can be considered universal, suitable for film and digital photography. And some of the troubles that may arise when processing frames taken with its help are more than compensated by operational advantages - working camera automation and more short exposures when shooting.
Having understood the requirements for a video surveillance system, you are ready to determine its main characteristics: one of the most important stages Design of a video surveillance system is to determine the requirements taking into account the risks that exist in the building or area in which the video surveillance system will operate. If you are planning to install video surveillance systems, you first need to decide which systems it will be - analogue or digital. In general, we can say that a completely analog system practically never happens, since in any case the video material is recorded digitally. The choice, however, remains the same - analogue or digital cameras. Analogue video cameras are still cheaper compared to IP cameras and in many cases are very suitable for the task, on par with more expensive digital systems. The choice between analog and digital cameras dictates the type of recording equipment you choose. For analog CCTV cameras, modern digital video recorders are often used; in the case of video recording, digital cameras will be equivalent to an NVR. Another aspect is whether it should be a local system or for remote access. Video surveillance is a closed system so that no outsider should have access to it. Such a system must guarantee the security of stored data. On the other hand, the development of the Internet for widespread accessibility gives it new opportunities for remote monitoring object without location restrictions. Modern systems monitoring and video surveillance make it possible to set options for the image generated by the video surveillance camera. Depending on the configuration, the camera can be available for live viewing and archive viewing, which allows us to back up data to external media, as well as manage recorded material. All these features can be accessed or blocked at certain access levels with a separate password. For the owner, or for remote control The company can be given full remote access to all functions of the relevant security access and to the system log. On the other hand, you can block any functions for those who are not registered. A few words about problems related to image quality. There is no doubt that image quality plays a key role in identifying objects for many CCTV cameras. Note, however, that this depends on many factors: the level of visibility and the lighting plan for observation, right choice camera parameters, quality of supply voltage, quality of power supply, quality of connectors used, quality of wire. It should be remembered that in extreme cases, the absence of at least one of these points can be decisive in deteriorating the image even when selecting the best equipment. Very simple systems video surveillance that should not distinguish small details, and will work under good light, there is no need to use expensive cameras, it will be enough to use a standard black and white or color camera with a resolution of 400-500 TVL. However, if video surveillance is to allow identification of a person or vehicle registration number, security cameras with high resolution 600-700 TVL. Types and method of wire. In small video surveillance systems, where the signal is transmitted over a distance of several meters, there is no need for a professional signal cable and power cords with an increased diameter. However, if the cameras are located at a significant distance from the recording equipment, a cable must be used best quality. Interference with a CCTV system can occur due to noise generated in long signal cables. They cause interference in the CCTV camera image. Interference may also occur if wires are located in close proximity to power lines, radio transmitters, magnetic wave generators and transformers. Which lenses should you choose: adjustable lenses or fixed lenses? The choice of lens type is closely related to what the surveillance camera will observe. If the camera plan does not change, for example, front door, you should not use cameras with zoom lenses. However, if the camera adapts to the modification environment, it is advisable to consider when choosing a camera with variable focal length and with manual adjustment. However, if the CCTV camera will be used to change shots frequently and view large area, you might want to choose a camera with a motorized zoom lens. In special cases where we want to be able to patrol the area, PTZ camera tracking can be used very productively. Monitoring a facility where the equipment has been selected correctly and configured correctly significantly increases the level of security, and the money invested in the installation will quickly return.
Ilyina Marina Andreevna 3045
Looking for unusual ideas For photographs and video materials, the operator sometimes looks into the most remote corners of the planet, looks for fantastic shooting points and even goes beyond the capabilities of the human eye.
To implement the latter, a set of specially designed lens attachments comes to the aid of the operator. In the photo and video environment they are called light filters. Often when using them, a truly fantastic and unexpected picture is obtained.
The hero of this review has exactly this property – an infrared filter for the lens.
It is a dark, often completely black, glass. When shooting, an IR filter limits the flow of any rays other than infrared from the subject to the collecting surface - the matrix of a camera or video camera. Do not think that infrared filters allow you to register your own “heat” rays emitted by any heated body. The images created with their help are obtained by recording those rays that this body can reflect in the infrared range.
What happens in the end? In order to understand this, before starting shooting, use the following rule: the more an object absorbs IR radiation, the more it heats up (for example, in the sun) and the darker it will turn out in a photograph or video frame.
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Privezite | RUR 4,200 | |
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Privezite | RUB 23,426 | |
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LightPhotos | RUB 1,590 | |
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LightPhotos | RUB 1,710 |
Let's look around: leaves, grass and snow reflect infrared rays well (which means they will turn out light or even white). What absorbs is asphalt, water and sky, which makes them dark or even black in images.
Shooting with an infrared filter allows you to create truly surreal shots. Too contrasting white clouds in the black sky, foliage as if covered with a thick layer of ash, deliberately pale faces with black eyes give an unexpected sound and drama to even the simplest images.
If you decide to try shooting with an infrared filter, then pay attention to the following points:
- Not all cameras and video cameras allow you to create images with an infrared filter. Often manufacturers of photo and video equipment put their own infrared filter inside the camera, in front of the matrix. This is done in order to cut off any IR rays, which are considered noise during “ordinary” shooting, from reaching the matrix. The only way to find out whether your camera is capable of shooting in IR is through experimentation.
- Infrared rays are much weaker than rays in the visible range. This means that to shoot with an infrared filter, you simply need to use a tripod.
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