How to cut a hole for a pipe. How and with what to make a hole in a pipe made of different materials. Pipe passage through a roof made of corrugated sheets and metal tiles

The article will be useful to a person both planning this work for the first time and having the “bitter” experience of labor intensity.

I was faced with a problem - to drill through a thick wall consisting of several layers, namely: a concrete block 200 mm thick, a sleeper 240 mm, plastered with 80 millimeters on each side, plus there is a provision between the block and the sleeper " airbag» 100 millimeters, no less. I may be wrong with the dimensions somewhere, but having measured the thickness in doorway, the wall was 730 millimeters.

There’s nothing scary about it, it’s just work and work, installing a water supply into the room attached to the house and that’s all, but the difficulty lies in the drilling different materials, plus drilling is available only on one side, from the extension.
In fact: plaster, block, sleeper, plaster. In addition to the hammer drill, you will also need a drill with a wood drill bit.

Orders of this kind occur quite rarely, once every five years, so to speak, and accordingly, a rarely used tool will be needed.

To drill holes for polypropylene pipes twenty (diameter = 21 mm) I need:

1. a drill for a hammer drill with a diameter of at least 22 mm (or better yet 25, remember that polypropylene expands for hot water supply?), and a length of at least 300 mm, this is the thickness of the plaster and concrete block. Have you ever drilled a sleeper with a drill?.. you'll be shocked...;
2. a wood drill, of the same diameter, at least 650 mm long, here I take into account the thickness of the conventionally drilled plaster and block, plus the “air cushion” and plus the sleeper itself;
3. drill for a rotary hammer with a diameter of 12, a length of more than 730, here is the full thickness of the wall (do we remember that you can only drill on one side? Yes, and the horseradish holes towards each other will coincide with two, and if you measure thoroughly, then the slope is any will be different).

Drill the wall directly with a drill large diameter It’s very labor-intensive and time-consuming; it’s much easier and faster to drill a thin one and then expand the hole with a larger one along the guide. I use this method up to several passes with different drills in increasing increments, depending on the ultimately required diameter. The “old-fashioned” method is very effective, you save a lot of physical effort, and what is important in my case is time - the work at first glance is “the cat cried”, all it takes is to remove two tubes, BUT the wall...

So, I went to the store, not familiar with the prices for the tool I need? The price tag for hammer drills, along with the length and increase in diameter, grows not just proportionally, but catastrophically, however, the same applies to screw drills.
Here are some screenshots with price tags:

Normal, right? And this is here in the provinces! I wonder what the cost is in regional and capital cities?

Alternative to long screw drill- feather, condition of suitability - you buy an extension cord, one is missing, you take two, fortunately connecting them together is as easy as shelling pears. That's exactly what I did, I already had one extension cord.

As a result, I received the required tool at a reasonable price, but you can’t explain to the customer that the tool is expensive; to put it mildly, he’s not interested. Visibility is only two half-inch tubes installed, but how you did it is your problem. The point is that an identical order, as I wrote above, will probably go through in the next five-year period, and the instrument will lie idle.

Step by step how I drilled:

1. from the side of the attached room, using a hammer drill with a 12 mm drill, I drilled through the plaster and block;
2. widened the hole with a 25 mm drill;
3. drilled the sleeper with a 25 mm feather drill;
4. then, again installing a long thin drill, I drilled through the plaster at the exit;
5. with a 25 mm drill, on the other hand, I expanded the diameter towards.

Conclusion:

In order to (one-time, or not one-time) drill concrete wall, say a meter thick, and a diameter of 32, it is not necessary to buy an expensive drill, but you will need one meter of millimeters 12÷16 in diameter. The second in increasing order may be 25, but already half a meter long, and the next passage is thirty-second, but again half a meter long, you drill them towards them. This is how I, for example, convey the idea in an accessible way, with variations depending on the occasion.

And one more thing: with feather drills, the option of gradually increasing the diameter does not work, you drill immediately with a wide feather, the price for them is a pittance in comparison with drills, and I have never seen thick wooden walls.

Two useful additions, naturally based on personal experience:

First:

When installing pipes, in addition to water supply, I also install sewerage if necessary. It’s no secret that the diameter of the pipes here is larger, from 40 to 150 millimeters; I don’t have a drilling rig with diamond bits, so I fulfill orders using the same hammer drill.
I proceed as follows: I mark a circle of the required diameter on the wall, drill holes along its perimeter with a thin long drill, then, using the same principle that I highlighted above, I expand the diameter of each hole to the maximum available in the arsenal. Then, replacing the drill with a spatula and switching the hammer drill mode to chiselling, I get rid of everything unnecessary. So... I agree the work is not pleasant, but this is just one of the disadvantages during installation. It should be borne in mind that this process is relevant for a small wall thickness, say a maximum of 300 millimeters, but for a much larger thickness you present the customer with a fact: ordering a drilling rig is a device, as noted above, using bits with diamond tips. The operation is not cheap, but with all the “breadth” of choice... the customer pays, then we come in with the installation.

Second:

Let’s say you carry out the first step yourself: you drill a concrete wall, trying to get a hole with a diameter of 140 millimeters, and you have a “surprise” in the form of reinforcement (usually in the walls panel houses).. You can’t take it with a drill, electric arc welding can help, in the absence of a grinder, which is problematic to use, access is difficult, you have to puff, creating access... in short, I don’t advise you to bother.
Exit: cut by welding or gas cutting. Isn't there such a thing? Find it! As in that saying: “It’s better to lose a day, but then fly in five minutes!”

Questions, additions: in the comments column, but that’s all I have for today, with respect

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hole in the wall

Sometimes it becomes necessary to drill a large diameter hole in concrete or brick, for example, to organize the inflow or outlet of air into barn or for exhausting a gas boiler with a closed combustion chamber. If you have diamond bits of the required diameter and a powerful hammer drill, that’s good, but what if you don’t have this? Well, you definitely can’t do it without a hammer drill, but you can do it without an expensive diamond bit (it’s a pity to buy it for a one-time job).

For a large diameter hole we need something like was noted above, a hammer drill, a drill of the required length with a pobedit tip and a spatula for gouging out the middle of the hole.

First, let's determine the diameter of the large hole and draw a circle in the right place on the wall. For a hole with a diameter of 10 cm, you need to draw at least 12 cm, since during operation the drill can move a little to the side, so it is better to immediately make a small reserve.

Secondly, you need to draw dots on the circle every 2-3 cm, where you need to drill a large diameter hole. The more often you drill holes, the easier it will be to knock the brick out of the wall. About 20 holes need to be drilled on a circle with a diameter of 12 cm.

Thirdly, you need to determine the thickness of the wall and select a drill of such length that it drills right through the wall.

How to drill a hole

Next we start drilling. We set the rotary hammer switch to the “drilling-chiselling” mode and drill a hole. Here you need to remember about your own safety: if the hole is high from the floor, then the support on which you are standing must be securely fastened.

hammer drill blade

We drill holes at the points that we marked on the circle. Since you need to drill a lot of holes, there will be a lot of dust, so you need to cover all the objects in the room with some material in advance so that they do not become unusable ahead of schedule their use. To strictly horizontally, you can use a hammer drill attach a small one. We drill through so that the drill comes out on the other side. As a result, we get a circle with 20 holes.

After this, remove the drill; it will no longer be needed. We insert a blade into the hammer drill, switch it to jackhammer mode without drilling and knock out the jumpers between drilled holes. You can place a spatula in the center of the circle and chisel away excess brick or concrete. If the blade is short and does not penetrate the wall, you can chisel the brick from the other side of the wall. But this can only be done low from the floor, in multi-storey buildings you need to purchase a spatula according to the thickness of the wall. When we hollow out the extra brick, we will have a large diameter hole in brick wall. If you liked the article, share it on social networks.

Cool video

During production various homemade products sometimes it becomes necessary to drill round pipes. It is quite difficult to perform such an operation using conventional twist drills, since this will require painstaking preliminary preparation. How to get out of this situation?

Will need

If you have an annular cutter of suitable diameter (another name for a core, hollow or annular drill), then working with curved surfaces, in particular cylindrical ones, becomes much easier and more productive.
We will also need a tool drive, such as a drill, several regular twist drills of different diameters, and a means to cool the bit while working. This could be a special cutting fluid, suitable machine oil, or, say, WD-40 universal lubricant.

Algorithm for the drilling process using a crown

Drilling the pipe surface must be directed strictly along the diameter, otherwise it will be impossible to achieve a positive final result.
1. Using a marker, mark at the end of the pipe where the diameter intersects with the walls of the product (there are many methods and devices for this).
2. Install the pipe so that one of the marks is strictly on top. Using a tape measure, measure the required distance from it along the generatrix and mark it with a marker.

3. We clamp the pipe in a bench vice and punch the marked point using a core and a hammer.

4. Turn the pipe over in a vice reverse side, mark the point opposite to the first one and also mark it.
5. Using a thin drill and a drill, drill holes at the two designated points of the pipe.
6. Next, we drill them through with a drill of a larger diameter in one pass, since there is an upper guide and a lower centering hole.

7. Having replaced the twist drill in the drill chuck with a crown with a centering drill, turn the pipe in a vice 90 degrees so that the guide holes are horizontal. This will allow you to apply more force when working with the crown.

8. Since the annular drill gets very hot during operation, to cool it and facilitate the process, generously lubricate the working teeth and the adjacent beaker belt in a circle with universal lubricant WD-40.

9. We insert the centering drill of the crown into the hole prepared in advance in the pipe and begin the process, adding grease to the crown from time to time.

10. After the crown comes out from the opposite side of the pipe, we get a cutout, which in configuration must exactly match the pipe of the same diameter, which is confirmed by the corresponding check.

11. If you need several pipes of equal length with shaped cutouts at the ends, then drill centering holes in the pipe blank at an equal distance from each other, and one by one, using a core drill, we obtain the required blanks.

For reference

We remind you that the outer diameter of the annular drill and the pipe being processed must be strictly the same.

When performing work related to repairs, laying communications and other operations, it becomes necessary to make holes in the pipe. This operation can be performed independently, without the help of a specialist and without specialized equipment.

You can drill a hole in a pipe yourself if you have a drill and a drill bit. required diameter. There are small specialized ones on sale drilling machines, which will help you make holes quickly, efficiently and safely.

To complete the work you will need the following tools:

The most important tool is a drill, specially designed for drilling holes using cutting tool(drills). When working with metal products It is necessary to use high-carbon steel drills or special drills with tips. During operation, overheating and blackening of the cutting tool is not allowed.
To fix the pipes during operation, you need a fixing tool - a vice.
To slightly widen the hole, you will need a file; a drill is not suitable for this purpose, since it bites the material, forming an uneven edge.
A hammer may be required if you need to punch a small hole or make a notch. Manual notching is required. locksmith tool– core.
Fix the drills in in the right position during drilling, it is possible using a homemade template from wooden block, which in the profile should have an M-shape, where the center of the cavity should coincide with the axis of the pipe. The horizontal side of such a beam should be equal to the outer diameter of the pipe, and the height should be about 50 mm. The hole drilled in the top will later be used as a guide. The template can be made with several holes of different diameters at once.
If there is no fixing tool (vise), you can make a device that combines a template and a vice, which is made in the form U-shaped clamp, in the upper part of which there are template holes for drilling. The body of the device is made of metal profile or from hardwood. There are 2 bolts installed on both sides, which act as a locking mechanism.

Before making a hole in a pipe, you should familiarize yourself with the appropriate techniques that allow you to solve this problem without using special equipment. In this article we will tell you about existing methods, helping to make holes in pipes made of various materials. You will learn how to give the hole the desired shape, as well as subsequently bore it.

Hole drilling tool

In order to complete the work, you will need to prepare the following tool:

drill (electric or manual type);
clamping vice;
special marking tool;
core, hammer and “round” file.

To work with metal pipe blanks, in addition to the items listed above, you will need high-carbon steel drills, as well as coolant. In addition, drills equipped with carbide tips can be used.

Let us immediately note that the drilling procedure without the use of special equipment is quite simple. All that is required of you is complete concentration and mandatory compliance with the relevant safety requirements.

Work of this type is carried out, as a rule, in a garage or in a special utility room(in a home workshop, for example). To avoid injury while drilling holes, you will need to use safety glasses and thick gloves. In addition, be sure to ensure that the drill bits are sharp enough and securely fastened in the drill chuck.

You can drill both metal and wood with the same drill, you just need to sharpen it at a different angle.

Work order

Before drilling a hole in a pipe, the following operations should be performed:

secure the pipe section in a vice;
apply appropriate markings to the drilling site;
then in the center of the future hole, using a core, you should knock out a small depression (as they say, “punch” the drilling point). This operation is necessary so that the drill does not move to the side during operation and is fixed in the center of the marking;
Once all these operations are completed, you can proceed to carefully and leisurely drilling the hole, starting with small-diameter drills and gradually changing them to thicker ones.

During operation, the drill must be kept strictly vertical, otherwise the drill may simply break under the influence of lateral loads. To accurately adjust the diameter of the hole, you can use a round file.

In order to make a square hole in the pipe, first make the usual round hole, which can then be shaped using a file square shape. Note that this method is quite labor-intensive and will require you to be very careful when working with metal.

When carrying out a similar operation with plastic or composite pipes, the easiest way is to use a steel rod rectangular shape. As such a rod is driven into a round hole, the latter acquires a square shape, after which it can be removed from the pipe blank. The irregularities formed during punching are subsequently removed using a regular file.

IN plastic pipes Large diameter holes can be cut with a crown.

And in conclusion, we draw your attention to one more point characteristic of the type of operations we are considering. Since the drill becomes very hot when preparing a hole in the metal, coolant (water or waste oil) should be periodically added to the drilling site.

Video: methods of drilling pipes

An interesting way of drilling through holes in small diameter pipes is shown in the video:

If you need to constantly make holes in pipes, you can make a jig for drilling holes: