How to make a round one from a square block. Do-it-yourself log beam using a chainsaw. Dissolve the trunk on the board

Chainsaws:. Installation guide, cutting functions, how to dissolve at home, price, photo

Sawing logs with a chainsaw: what do you need for this?

Some people have the opportunity to take a certain area in the forest for registration in order to dissolve the trunks, but how will a chainsaw dissolve a log on the boards if this has never happened? Those who have been engaged in logging for a long time can do it without any devices. they only need to reflect a longitudinal line on the trunk and use it to cut a strip or board.

But if you have never done this, you will need certain adaptations, which we will now describe and also show the topics in this article.

Cutting logs on chainsaw saws on wood fell

Dissolve the trunk on the board

Note. To cut the trunk into logs, you may need a sawmill or an electric or chainsaw with bench lights.

What do you need for this?

Chainsaw. the most accessible tool, in addition, there are a number of reasons:

• sawing trunks can be done directly for logging. It does not require any stationary or stand-alone power sources, only one tool;
• compared to electric saw, gasoline has much more power. which is key point longitudinal dissolution of logs;
• it has a soft start and soft speed control. therefore, the risk of breaking the chain during operation is reduced to almost zero (this is, of course, possible, but you need to try very hard for this);
• compared to a sawmill, the price of tools running on gasoline is several orders of magnitude lower;
• compared to an electrical unit, inertial braking is much higher here;
• time of intensive use. The instruction manual allows you to stretch it up to 1 hour;
• there is an opportunity to work with high humidity(rain, fog)

Adaptation to trunking

As we have already said, experienced sawmills can cut logs without any devices, but for beginners, you need to make your own log fastening machine, saw saw frame and guide for smooth cutting.

Read also

It should not be forgotten that during such work the tool experiences very heavy loads. Therefore, if you want to do this professionally, then naturally you will need an appropriate model, that is, the most powerful one.

Professionals name the most popular and best options, this is Stihl MS-660 or Stihl MS-880. These units produce over 7 horsepower to ensure smooth operation under heavy loads.

Device for longitudinal cutting of logs and beams

Manual sawmill with your own hands. Scheme and sizes here Homemade device For

Sawing device logs on the boards chainsaw.

Frame parts

To adjust the thickness of the saw plate to the bar, a special steel frame is applied, which allows you to adjust the distance from yourself to the bar.

The frame is ready. view from different angles

To make such an angle, you can buy a 20×20mm square steel tubular profile, but you can also use available material. For example, aluminum legs from an old school desk work best here.

A thick board was used as a guide

Read also

IN as a guide To make something like a stationary machine, you will need some kind of rigid metal, most likely steel, profile, or a thick flat board under a log, as shown in the top photo. In fact, it looks exactly like the picture. two trestles are installed, and a guide (board or profile) is placed on them.

But it should be borne in mind that such a device can only be used for short logs, since if it is increased (the distance depends on the thickness of the guide), there will be a deviation that will lead to a different thickness of the material being manufactured.

Timberjit Coarse Mill Machine

The thickness of the slab or saw will only be level if a template is used to drive chain saw. leading ruler or guide. For this purpose, it is very convenient to use the Swedish “Big Timbergit Mill”, which you see above. it costs about 9-10 thousand rubles.

It is up to you to decide whether you need such a device, but once you have spent, you will receive a compact device that, along with the saw, can be delivered to the site on a motorcycle.

To get started, you will need a push-pull saw and a guide bar with two nuts. With you will be able to open magazines with a diameter of up to 60 cm. In this situation you will have to purchase a chain for longitudinal sawing the trunk, but if you do not get it for some reason, then sharpen a regular chain at an angle of 10 °.

The Timberjeet Large Mill includes many parts to help you fix and fix your wood guide. It turns out that when the chain saw runs along this guide, the frame slides, but the bar does not go to the side.

Note. Whatever type of wood you process, in any case the chain is dull, and in order for the sawing process to proceed without problems, it should be periodically sharpened.

Frame mounted on a guide

Sawing a chain saw is a process

Now let's see how to cut the magazine into boards:

• first we make a guide. we take two equal edgings wooden planks and fasten them together in the form of a half-level;
• From pieces of the same boards we make feet for guides with half an inclination. fasteners included;
• We roll the log using a rolling machine and place it on a previously prepared comfortable base;
• secure the frame with nuts;
• after that we attach the supports. which hold a ruler at the ends of the magazine, checking its horizontal level;
• fixing all fasteners. since the nails will be extremely difficult to pull out at the end of the job;
• we check that the cutting line does not run along the ruler, but 10 mm higher;
• start the saw and make the first cut;
• release the log from the supports and rebuild the structure to next line cut so that it turns perpendicular (90⁰) to the finished cut;
• now turn the beam again and secure it with boards until it rests on the ground. the ruler will no longer be useful to you, it will be replaced by the previously made cut.

Conclusion

Of course, cutting magazines on a board at home is not limited to these two devices. If you do it yourself, you will need to make a trunk, and then with the help of a frame you can assemble boards of any thickness.

Every year the range of lumber is only increasing, and the types of products for construction wooden house or cottages are getting closer to ideal. But what to do with simple non-profiled timber, which is gradually being replaced by its brothers - laminated veneer lumber and profiled timber. After all, use inexpensive option edged timber is much cheaper. Craftsmen solve this problem in their own way.

How to make profiled timber with your own hands, saving money?

There are several options for making profiled timber from ordinary timber, which allows you to save money and get more quality material for construction. All you need is a little patience and free time, as well as the ability to handle some tools.

Many people ask questions: “Is there any point in making profiled timber with your own hands?”, “Maybe it’s easier to buy a ready-made one?” Definitely a purchase finished material much easier. However, there are many reasons why the production of profiled timber is especially important:

1. The profile should be like this geometric shape so that it does not blow out. Moreover, you are doing this only for yourself, which means your profile will be made with high quality.
2. By making profiled timber yourself, you will save 3-5 thousand rubles from each cube of material. Of course, much more time will be spent.
3. Walls made of this material do not need additional finishing, since the insulation will be invisible.
4. The crowns can be made more accurately, and the connecting ones will fit as tightly as possible to each other.

Which profile is better?

When choosing a profile, it is better to calculate your skills and strengths. Making a profile on a block on your own seems like a simple matter. It takes a lot of perseverance and time to carry out such a task more efficiently. When choosing a profile, you should focus on the most simple designs. To implement them, you don’t have to use many types of tools and you don’t have to do a lot of calculations.

Carefully read GOST 9330-76 “Basic connections of parts made of wood and wood materials", it will allow you to calculate everything correctly. As a rule, two types of profiles are made: profiling through a triangle or profiling through a rectangle.

It is important to understand that before making a profile, you need to calculate its height, depth and width. Moreover, for each section of timber it is different and GOST helps. Be that as it may, when building a house from this timber, insulation (at least 5 cm thick) is laid between it.

How to make profiled timber with your own hands: methods

1. Using a cutter.

This is perhaps the easiest way. The milling cutter must be powerful, at least 1.5 kilowatts, and have a special attachment. If the profile is simple, then the radius of the cutter used will be 4-5 cm. If it is complex, then it is produced by several types of cutters. If desired, you can even make a D-shaped side of the beam with this tool. But here you will also need an electric planer and a sander.

Everything directly depends on what kind of manufacturing precision you plan to achieve as a result. The very concept of “profiling” implies the cleanliness and accuracy of the surface. The advantages of this option: if you use a sharp milling attachment, then you can do without subsequent grinding.

But this option also has disadvantages:

• a milling machine is quite expensive (5-10 thousand rubles);
• It is not always possible to buy the right attachment; it may not exist for the milling machine that you have in stock.

Well suited for cutting straight grooves.

1. Usage circular saw.

A good way to make the connection yourself is to use the tools at hand. For example, using a hand-held circular saw. Such a tool will cost you 3-5 thousand rubles (the price depends on the manufacturer). The main thing is that it can be sawed at the required angle and make a cut of 65 mm.

Advantages of this method:

• the ability to control the accuracy of cutting in depth;
• easy execution of a smooth and straight groove;

Flaws:

• It will not be possible to clean the groove using this tool;
• there may be insufficient cutting depth;
• each time the cutting depth needs to be re-adjusted;
• low speed when working.

It is best to use it to cut out a triangular groove.

In both options, this is painstaking and lengthy work that requires preliminary measurements and accuracy.

Of course, you can successfully combine these tools with each other. For example, if you need to make a rounded quarter, first cut it with a saw and then round it with a router. Do not rush to throw away sawing waste, as it will be useful for joining the timber.

1. Corner connection of timber.

You can also do it yourself. Usually it is made in two types:

• connection in a warm corner;
• two-way or one-way simple connection.

All connections are made in accordance with GOST 30974 - 2002. As for the choice of cutting bowls, here you need to build on your own knowledge and skills.

Tools you will need: a milling machine or chainsaw with a special device, marking templates, a pencil, an axe, a tape measure and a hammer drill. A hammer drill is used to drill holes for dowels.

Two-way or one-way connection

With a double-sided connection, the bowl is cut out on both sides; with a one-sided connection, the bowl is cut out on one side.

At the end of the beam, it is necessary to measure a distance in width equal to the width of the beam, and in depth - half the section. Making such a connection will not be difficult. Next, the beams are stacked on top of each other. This connection is often called “cold”. This design requires at least 5 cm of insulation.

Connection in a “warm corner”

It should be said right away that it is not easy to do. This requires precision and special skills. But a warm corner is able to retain heat better and allows you to make the corners smoother.

There are several types of “warm corner” connections that you can make with your own hands: a connection with a main tenon, a keyed connection.

Make templates according to which the timber will be marked. For example, you can make it from wooden slats. Next you need to attach a template and make 3 cuts with a chainsaw to the required depth. Next, use an ax to chop off the excess along the cut. Protect the finished groove. It is important that the cuts have large size, namely, they were half the section source material. Thus, it compensates for them during the shrinkage of the house.

The tow is placed tightly between the joints. Caulking the “warm corner” after installation will be much more difficult. Using metal or wooden dowels, connect the crowns. Made from leftovers wooden dowels. When drying the timber, the iron pins will be visible, which will spoil the aesthetic appearance.

Wooden dowels are made with a diameter of 20-30 mm, sharpening them on one side. If you do them earlier, they will dry out by the time of construction. You can also make square dowels, which will be even easier to make. Moreover, its diagonal should be 4-6 mm larger than the diameter of the drill used. The length of the dowel should be equal to 1.5 times the thickness of the timber. When drilling holes, you need to take this size into account, but add another 2 cm.

Do not drill them close corner connections, since when hammering in dowels, chips may form. Such holes must be located in increments of 1.5 m and at a distance of 250 mm from the end.

It will be difficult to make such a warm corner yourself, especially the first time. This requires skills and ability to work with timber. However, if you have time left, you can practice on a thick board or old material.

As you can see, you can make profiled timber with your own hands, but it is quite long and painstaking. If you have the patience and time, doing this work yourself can save you money. However, if you do not have sufficient skills, we recommend sparing your strength and nerves by purchasing ready-made timber with cut bowls.

Often there is a need to get timber from a log rectangular section. It's not that difficult to do.

If you already know how to cut logs correctly, then cutting out timber will also not be difficult for you. The main thing is to correctly mark the log in order to obtain a beam of the required size.

We have already discussed cutting a log into two edges in the article on preparing logs.

Let's see now how to cut a rectangular or square beam from a log.

Marking logs to obtain a rectangular beam

When marking, you should be careful and take into account that the diameters of the butt and apical parts differ. Therefore, it is best to start marking from the end with a smaller diameter.

Secure the log in any way convenient for you, as described in the article on preparing logs.

Draw a circle, then mark its diameter in the form of a vertical line connecting top point circles from the bottom. For work, use a special carpenter's compass with hardened metal ends.

The resulting diameter must be divided into three equal segments and perpendiculars drawn through their ends so that they intersect with the circle.

After this, connect the intersection points with the circle to form a rectangle.

The most advantageous aspect ratio is 5:7, that is, 10:14, 15:25, 20:28, etc. - these will be profitable sections.

Marking logs to obtain a square beam

In some cases, it is necessary to obtain timber square section. In this case, the circle is divided by two diameters perpendicular to each other, after which the intersection points of the diameters with the circle are connected by straight lines.

All basic operations for marking the ends of logs to obtain rectangular and square beams are shown in the figure below.

Basic operations for cutting timber from a log

First, mark the central axis (diameter).

Then the ends of the log are marked as described above.
After this, chamfering lines are marked along the ends of the log marked with a chalked cord.

To do this, the cord is secured along the edges of the log in pinches made with an ax, so that the cord is taut. After this, the cord is pulled back a little, like a bow string, and released. When the cord hits the log, it leaves a line. The cutting will be done along this line.

First, along the side to be hewn, cuts are made with an ax every 20-40 centimeters, not reaching the hew-off line a few millimeters.

After this, a rough cut is made with an ax, removing the main layer of wood, moving from cut to cut. When the main layer of wood being removed has been removed, the surface to be hewn is cleaned either with careful clearing blows of an ax or with a sherhebel.

Today, beams are rarely hewn from logs with an ax. For this purpose, there are milling-canter lines that produce timber in industrial scale. However, when building a bathhouse, you may have a situation where you need to hew out a flat surface on one or more sides of the log. Therefore, you need to know the basic techniques for cutting a beam out of a log or cutting a log by 1-2 edges.

In the construction of bathhouses, hand-held electric and gas-powered tools are currently widely used. If you make a plane with a chainsaw, then the sequence of operations will be the same - marking, making cuts along the side to be cut, rough removal of a layer of wood, and only then finishing to the cutting line using an ax or electric plane.

Now you know how to cut a log, how to cut timber from a log. In other articles we will talk about how to properly make a groove in a beam or log, how to saw wood correctly, how to plan boards and beams.

Latest publications:

Even laid out correctly brick oven, repairs are required over time. High temperatures, violation of traction, mechanical damage to the masonry - all this leads to the appearance of defects that require elimination. After all, good traction and the absence of cracks in the walls are...

All photos from the article

Wood blocks are one of the most common types of lumber, which has wide application in construction and production wooden structures. In the article we will look at the types and methods of connecting timber, and also find out whether it is possible to attach drywall to wooden beams.

Features of timber

Varieties and sizes

Wooden beams are lumber with regular rectangular shapes sections. In GOST terminology, there are differences between timber and timber. Thus, timber with a side of 100 mm or more is called timber, and a beam can have a thickness of up to 100 mm and a width that is no more than twice the thickness.

Timber is produced by trimming logs or by gluing lamellas. Lamels are boards from which beams of the required section are assembled.

Lumber is usually made from boards by sawing them to length. If at least one face or both edges of the product are processed by planing, then it is called planed. The timber, depending on the number of processed planes, can be two-edged, three-edged or four-edged.

If the material is processed and dried to specified dimensions and moisture content, then it is called calibrated. Lumber can be made from hardwood and coniferous species wood

The following dimensions are typical for coniferous timber: 16, 19, 22, 25, 32, 40, 44, 50, 60 and 75 mm in width and thickness. The length can vary from one meter to six and a half in increments of 250 mm.