How to make a blinking LED car alarm simulator yourself. Simulation of a car alarm. Pros and cons of an alarm simulator in the country and for other purposes

Protecting real estate is an important task for every owner of a summer cottage. Remoteness country houses is the factor that constantly attracts robbers. To prevent theft of valuables from his dacha, the owner installs various alarm systems. But sometimes it happens that the necessary financial resources are not enough to install a full-fledged security complex. In this case, a dummy alarm system for a dacha can help.

What is a dummy?

Dummies are special devices that are used to visually deceive an intruder who intends to enter the dacha. With the help of these devices, an imitation of an alarm system for a summer house is provided.

This type of special device is quite cheap, and visually they are exact copies security devices. The dummies of security devices used for signaling (cameras, motion sensors, indicators of security systems, etc.) allow you to deceive a burglar. Seeing the flashing indicator of the dummy, the attacker will think that the house is equipped with a security system and is unlikely to intend to get into such an object. The main thing is that the information that the dacha is “guarded by a dummy” by the owner of the house is not disseminated among unknown strangers.

Advantages and Disadvantages

An alarm simulator, like any other real estate security device, has its positive and negative sides. To make it easier to decide whether a dummy alarm system is needed at your dacha, you should consider the pros and cons of these pseudo-security systems.

Advantages:

1. Minimum cost. Even the most simple alarm, installed in country house, It is quite expensive, and also requires specialized setup and maintenance. A dummy security alarm system costs several times less, is easy to install and does not require specialized maintenance.
2. Sufficient level of security. Although the home alarm simulator does not have the functions that a modern multifunctional alarm system is equipped with, it is capable of providing a sufficient level of security for the facility. The presence of a dummy is better than the complete absence of any security devices at the dacha. If the attacker does not know what to summer cottage dummy security systems are used, he will be afraid to enter such a house.
3. Easy to install. Distinctive feature dummies is their ease of installation - everyone can install such devices on their own.
4. Autonomy of work. A decoy alarm can operate from an independent power source, a battery or an accumulator, which supplies power to an LED beacon indicating the operation of the security system.

Flaws:

1. The security alarm simulator has one significant disadvantage - low functionality. If an experienced criminal who knows how to counteract security alarms decides to enter a dacha, he will quickly determine that the facility is using a simulator of a burglar alarm system, and not a real security system. In this case, simulating an alarm will not help resist the robber.

Where can I get a dummy alarm?

An imitation of a burglar alarm system is provided using special devices that are sold in specialized stores that sell the real thing. security equipment. Such devices are also offered on radio markets or in online stores.

In addition, you can try to make a dummy of a security alarm yourself - LED, simple electronic circuit and a soldering iron will allow you to get a practically free fake security system simulator.

How to make a dummy alarm with your own hands?

The main thing you should pay attention to when making a dummy security alarm for your dacha is its realism. The safety of the facility largely depends on this. After all, if an attacker recognizes that an imitation security alarm is used at an object of interest to him, he will definitely try to break into this house.

Let's look at how to make an LED alarm beacon. To make such a dummy security system yourself you will need:

• two AA batteries type AA;
• red LED indicator;
• old electronic alarm clock;
• soldering iron

The old alarm clock is used so as not to have to worry about how to make the LED blink. For this, a step-by-step miniature motor of an electronic alarm clock is used, to which the conductors going to LED indicator and batteries.

A lit light for a home alarm is intended to demonstrate that the property is protected. If a flashing burglar alarm indicator is installed, the dummy will look more realistic and believable, effectively deterring thieves.

The resulting structure is placed in a box, which is the main unit that is included in the simplest dummy alarm system for an apartment or country house.

“Pay attention!

The assembled device can be installed in the housing of an old external surveillance video camera, securing it with a bracket on the wall of the building. Paste the appropriate sticker on the building about the protection of the facility, and that’s it - the imitation alarm system for the house is ready.”

Duration of service of dummies

Dummies of security systems in a country house do not require special maintenance and can last long enough long time. Considering that alarm simulator devices for an apartment or cottage must be in external environment, then you should ensure reliable protection of electronic components from precipitation - this will prevent damage to the devices and increase their service life. In addition, when negative temperatures Battery life is significantly reduced. Therefore, you should choose AA batteries that operate at low temperatures. This will ensure trouble-free simulation of a security alarm for an apartment or country house for a long time (several months).

A good car alarm system, such as “Convoy”, “Sheriff”, “Alligator”, etc., costs a lot of money. But by making a simple device (see diagrams) based on a multivibrator, you can easily imitate it and thereby reduce the likelihood of car theft by approximately 40-50%, or even more. After all, it’s easier and safer for car thieves to “open” a car without signs of an alarm, and, unfortunately, there are plenty of them.

Typically, on cars with an activated (turned on) alarm system, a red, blue or green LED in the cabin flashes. It is usually installed somewhere on the front pillar of the passenger compartment. You can make such a device according to the following scheme.

The parts used in the simulator are not scarce, transistors can be used KT315, or KT815, KT972, electrolytic capacitors 50-100 μF 16 V, LED AL307 and several resistors of 10 and 0.5 kOhm. Such radio components can be easily found in old TVs, printers and other devices.

By changing the capacitance of the capacitors, you can change the pause or glow time of the LED (one is responsible for the pause, the second for the glow). The LEDs in this circuit light up smoothly and also go out smoothly. In my opinion, it is better to leave the glow time and pause symmetrical, i.e. put both capacitors at 100 uF.

The circuit starts working when powered with 3 volts, but it is better to power it from 9-12 V, then the LEDs will glow at their maximum and the simulator will be more noticeable.

You can power it from an on-board battery or a 9 V Krona, in the worst case, 2 batteries of 1.5 V. But! It is necessary to feed secretly, i.e. hide the wiring and board and bring out only the LED, and not from the cigarette lighter, like some. Otherwise, the thief will immediately understand that it is a dummy.

There are other options for blinkers, for example, based on single-ended multivibrator. The circuit is built on transistors of different conductivities. Unlike the previous version, this circuit is powered by one or 2 AA batteries, i.e. 1.5 -3 V and lasts for about six months. But, if desired, the device can be powered through a voltage divider and from an on-board 12 V battery.

It works somewhat differently than the previous scheme; the LED lights up with a flash and quickly goes out. For me, the first option is more to my liking.

If the device is assembled according to the diagram, without errors, it works immediately and does not require any adjustment, except that, if desired, you can adjust the blinking frequency. The transistors in this circuit are silicon, KT315 and KT361 with any letter values. The adjustment (generator frequency) can be changed in a sufficiently within wide limits using R1 and C1.

But, during assembly, it is necessary to take into account that capacitor C1 in this circuit must necessarily be of the KM type, i.e., not electrolytic, not polar. The LED can be supplied in any color, but usually it is red or blue.

The circuit itself is economical and continues to operate when the voltage drops to 1 volt. Such a simulating device, due to its high efficiency, is often used by radio amateurs and not only for “protection” of apartments, country houses, garages, etc. For this purpose there are more reliable options, For example GSM alarm, in more detail.

There are other simulator circuits, they all work approximately the same, but the ones given here are tested and work 100%.

The above alarm simulator circuits are the so-called “passive” protection against theft or theft. Although these circuits are simple, they are worth the trouble of fiddling around and making the device, especially if your car is new and attractive, but you don’t want to spend money on a real alarm system, or don’t have the time or desire.

Many of us leave ours for the winter country house unattended, hoping for strong doors and at random. Where to go? Electricity is turned off for the winter, and an autonomous security system that can work all winter and even have a decent range, or at least a howler, costs more than the contents of the house. It’s good if the dacha is located in the coverage area of ​​a mobile operator, but what if not? We remove everything more or less valuable from the house, lock it up until spring.

However, if strong doors and shutters are equipped with a security system simulator, then the chances of preserving your property can be increased significantly. Before breaking into a house, any burglar studies the strength of doors and windows. In the window, he notices glimpses of a security system (like the one that flashes inside a car under security). His actions? Break? What if it's a security alarm and it starts screaming? Run. What if he doesn’t yell, but sets off a silent alarm? Maybe a dummy? What if not?

In any case, if you install such a dummy, no one will be worse off, especially since its cost is the price of two AA batteries, an LED and an old broken Chinese alarm clock, which costs no more than a dollar when new. The work is a two-hit job with a soldering iron, without exaggeration. This system is completely autonomous and last season I personally worked around the clock from October until the end of April on one set of batteries at a Ukrainian hryvnia apiece. So, if you decide, then you will need:

• 2 AA batteries, and not a super-duper energizer - the current consumption of the device is scanty.
• Indicator LED of any color, but red is worse. Anyone will do, preferably with less current consumption, and you can pick it out from anywhere - from an old disk drive to a receiver, TV or tape recorder - wherever they are placed. You can pick one out of a soft Chinese toy that sparkles with eyes and croaks “I love you.” You can do it with one eye - safety is more expensive.
• I think everyone has a broken disposable Chinese watch. If not, the store gives them a discounted price - 25 rubles. In principle, any cheap Chinese clock (wall clock, table clock) that clacks throughout the house will work (silent clocks with smooth operation will not work) and run on a single AA battery.

We ruthlessly destroy the watch and get to its electronics:

In the figure the numbers indicate:

• 1, 2 – contacts for connection stepper motor(looks like a coil).
• 3 – output for turning on the alarm clock
• 4 – power output “–”
• 5 – power output “+”
• 6,7 – alarm outputs

We are only interested in three pins - 1, 4, 5. We take a soldering iron and assemble the following circuit, adding another battery and an LED to the finished one. We remove the tweeter, leave pins 3, 6, 7 free:

There is no power switch - it is not needed. The only thing is that for the second battery you will have to make some kind of cassette - I took it from the second watch. We soldered it, plugged in the batteries and it was done. Our LED will start flashing at a frequency of 0.5 Hz. Scary? That's it. And there is no current consumption. The clock mechanism “eats” you know how much, and due to the stepper motor, but we threw it away. This results in less battery self-discharge. The LED is larger, but only during short flashes. All that remains is to push the whole thing into some faceless, official-looking box with a hole for an LED, and secure the box itself from the inside of the house so that it can be seen from the window. The power of the output switch of the microcircuit is quite enough to power the LED - for the experiment, I had 5 such designs blinking for two weeks. I used AL307 LEDs.

P.S. This winter (2013-2014) I tried to install an LED from a mouse (optical) manipulator. The current consumption is much lower, the brightness is higher. After the New Year I went to the dacha - it’s still blinking. (I armed it at the beginning of September using two Chinese blue batteries for 70 Ukrainian kopecks. I’ll write back in the spring.

P.P.S. The batteries worked until the end of May - one leaked, the frequency of flashes decreased by about three times. Replaced. Total - 9 months of continuous work.

Security alarm light simulator unit

IN lately there is often a need to simulate presence and active state electronic devices alarms. First of all, this is done for prevention purposes. And secondly, so that the potential antisocial element of society does not encroach on property belonging to the rightful owner. Unfortunately, the psychology of the antisocial element is such that it is almost impossible to convince or force him to change his criminal lifestyle, especially if he is over 18 years old, especially if he has experience of successful thefts. Law-abiding citizens can only zealously guard their property.

For this purpose, a simple device containing a minimum of parts is proposed. This is a light simulator for turning on an alarm - an LED that flashes at regular intervals, indicating that the alarm is turned on. The device works in the same way as a car light alarm in the form of a red LED. This LED is installed under the windshield of the car on the passenger compartment side and flashes when the security mode is turned on. A similar lighting effect is observed in various apartment alarm units, such as “Comet”, “Center”, “Spectrum”, etc. In Fig. 4.6 shows a simple electrical simulator of a security alarm, which almost anyone can replicate.

Oxide Preferably with minimal leakage current, for example from the K52-x series.

Fixed resistors. Any from the MLT series.

The turn-on delay time of the transistor can be increased by proportionally increasing the resistor R\ and the capacitance of the oxide capacitor C\. However, you should not increase the capacity of these elements indefinitely, since 20% of the value indicated on the body of the elements is already allocated to natural deviation and capacity. In addition, this should not be done due to the influence of ambient temperature on resistors and capacitor capacitance. At large values the capacitance of the oxide capacitor C\ and resistor R\ each time the turn-on delay of the transistor, and therefore the LED HL1, will fluctuate significantly.

H.L. Can be replaced by L36B, L56B, L36BSRD, L-297F (head diameter 3 mm), L-517hD-F, L-816BRSC-B, L-769BGR, L56DGD, TLBR-5410 and similar.

Thanks to the use in the circuit field effect transistor the node practically does not consume current in the time delay mode, and when the LED is activated, the current consumption is almost equal to the current consumption of the flashing LED, i.e. does not exceed 10 mA. This allows you to use almost any source as a power source for this node DC voltage, including the simplest transformerless one with ballast capacitors at the input. The unit is not critical to the supply voltage, which makes it almost universal - it is operational at a constant supply voltage in the range of 3...15 V. When the supply voltage increases above 12 V, the limiting resistor R 2 should be increased by a multiple.

Instead of the HL1 LED and the limiting resistor R2 connected in series (or parallel) with it, you can turn on an audio piezoelectric capsule, for example KPI-4332-12. It has a built-in 34 with interruption, and when the simulator is activated, the sound will be intermittent and strong enough to be heard in adjacent rooms and outside the front door.

This delay node can find wide application in amateur radio designs.