DIY multi-body hive. How to make a multi-body hive with your own hands. Preparing for winter

So I kept myself busy on the sly while I was on duty at a construction site for a day. Then I was at home for three days and again guarded the construction site for 24 hours and made my own hives. My partner said: “It’s nice to go into the trailer - it smells like wood, and not tobacco, like others.”

Today I finished the cases and, as usual, I’ll tell you how I made them. The very first question is what to make it from? My “basement” and “garage” supplies of boards have run out. I started looking around the city for dry pine board forty. Oh, and expensive, let me tell you. They ask for 1200 hryvnia per cube. If you take into account all the costs of making multi-hull hives at this price, then buying ready-made ones won’t be much more expensive than making them yourself.

From one of the advertisements I found a dry spruce board. Leftovers. Take it, they say, at a price of 800 per cubic meter. I took it, of course. Three four-meter boards.

Igor, the owner of the machine on which I made beehives, gave me three more pine boards. In return, I made him a beehive.

Well, I still have some dry dismantled window boxes left in stock - they will also be used. So I scraped together some material.

I immediately cut the board into half-meter pieces, because the machine is small, it’s difficult to process long pieces.

Each of the blanks had exactly one edge cut off.

I decided to make the walls of the buildings from two boards: wide - 160 mm and narrow - 90 mm. Having placed the side stop, I spread the board lengthwise.

I set the size to 165 and 95 mm - with a margin of 5 mm for processing. Some even yielded two wide pieces, some produced a wide and a narrow one, others produced only two narrow ones. The width of the window bars, by the way, is also 95 mm, so they fit just right.

I don’t have a thickness gauge, I simply pressed it with my own hands and sharpened the workpieces on both sides, reducing the thickness to 35 mm.

Ostrogal sides at a right angle - pressed against a vertical stop.

I decided to glue the walls into tongue and groove. To select for the tongue and groove, I bought a cutter with a diameter of 125 mm and a tooth width of 10 mm.

I chose a groove measuring 10x10 mm in the blanks on one side in the center.

There is information on how to adjust the height of the machine table.

I connect a wide board with a narrow one and clamp it in a clamp. Fits two walls at once. I also made the clamp with my own hands - nothing complicated.

After 3-4 hours you can remove and glue the next batch. It took me several shifts just for gluing, so making multi-hull hives is a painstaking and fuss-free process.

Small irregularities and differences in the glued parts were sanded with a grinder and sandpaper.

I placed a side stop and cut all the blanks lengthwise to a final size of 250 mm - this is the height of the multi-body hive body. I didn’t plan this cut anymore.

Found a multi-body hive wide application in Russia, America, Canada, Australia and other developed countries. This type of hive fully meets the requirements of modern beekeeping. When keeping bees in such a structure, the beekeeper makes his work several times easier, saves time, and such a hive also simplifies the work of caring for insects. During the flowering period of honey grasses, it is necessary to begin building up strong families in a multi-hull hive, and beekeeping methods play a major role in this.

Features of keeping bees in multi-hull hives

Multi-house keeping of bees has become very popular among beekeepers, as this method supplies the beekeeper with a large amount of honey. Methods for keeping bees in a multi-hull hive include 5 stages:

1. To clean the bottom, remove the housing from the lower tier. This work is carried out after the first cleaning flight and is done quickly, without disassembling the nest. At this stage, the nest is not enlarged, since a weak family that has overwintered can quickly gain strength after the first flight. Leave one box with combs until the first brood.

2. This stage begins during the flowering period of honey plants, when there are 9 brood frames in the nests. During this period, an additional building with dry land is installed and layering is made. The method of forming layering is simple:

• 2 boxes are placed for strong bees. A plywood partition is attached to one - a layer will be placed in this dwelling.
• Next, a nest is made from five brood frames and 5 empty honeycomb frames.
• For a strong family, an additional box is installed, and a body with a branch is installed on it. This is how the home acquires a third floor.
• The next day, if the weather is warm, a young queen is added to the outlet.

3. Held in early June, when main family increases and begins to master the second box. In this case, the nest and layering are enlarged. To do this, add a 3rd box with mandatory movement:

• The top one with brood is moved to the lower tier;
• Empty - installed on top;
• Between the bodies, a third one is placed in the cut, with empty frames and artificial foundation (1:1). The layering is left in a box with good frames.

Enlarging the nest in this way and moving the bodies will not allow the bees to swarm, since the insects will be busy colonizing the nest. Bee colonies are intensively engaged in brood production and gaining strength for the main honey collection.

The connection of a family with a layer is carried out before the main bribe. A layering box with a young queen bee, to prevent one queen from clogging another, is placed at the bottom of a strong colony. The bodies are installed sequentially: on top with sealed brood, on the bottom with closed brood.

4. At this stage, remove the plywood frame. Bees enter the main honey collection with five bodies completely filled with insects and 40 frames of brood. If the bribe is large, you need to deliver the corps.

5. The final autumn stage. During this period: the beekeeper examines bee colonies; removes all the boxes with honey, leaving the bottom one with brood and the top one with food; makes a nesting site for the winter.

This multi-body beekeeping technology is simple and saves time and effort.

• this design retains heat well and will not allow insects to swarm;
• the queen bee does not spend much effort looking for empty cells;
• makes it possible to use bribes to the maximum;
• the cost of effort and time is reduced by five times.

Structural features

Multi-hull housing of bees is significantly different from keeping bees in other hives: it is easy to work with, does not require a lot of effort and time, the housings are light and can be easily transported.

Each box contains about 10 frames, measuring 43.5x23. The hive is made from at least 4 boxes. This design is indispensable for stationary and nomadic apiaries. From the outside, the hive looks like a large column, with one protrusion near the entrance. In order to competently make a multi-body hive, you need to familiarize yourself with the drawings and know the operating technology. The multi-body hive includes:

1. Frame. The width of the wall should not be less than 35 mm. A tap hole with a diameter of 25 mm is drilled on each body and equipped with a valve. For convenient transportation, there are handles on the sides of each box. Finished design must have internal dimensions: 37.5x45x34.
2. Bottom. The bottom should be removable with a sloping shield. The shield is made of 3 boards 3.5 cm thick, which are tied on each side. The necessary clearance, during the main bribe, is made by removing the liner from the lower tap hole. The clearance should have dimensions: 37.5x2.
3. Roof. For convenient movement of the hive, it is better to make the roof horizontal. To prevent damage during transportation, it is made of boards 2.4 cm wide, and for the shield - 2 cm.
4. Liner. The lid is located at the top of the hive, but sometimes it is used as a partition between the hive.
5. Ceiling. The ceiling is made of 5 boards. They are connected by 2 stripes. Used as a horizontal diaphragm between housings.
6. Ventilation grille. Ventilation is made from a strapping on which a metal mesh with cells is installed. The cells should be small so that insects cannot crawl through them. Ventilation is installed in the roof, body or in the folds of the roof liner.

DIY making

In order to make a multi-hull hive with your own hands, you need to select drawings and dimensions, and also know how multi-hull bees are kept.
To make a hive, you will need:

1. Construction material for making boxes, 35 mm thick.
2. Frames that are made according to dimensions are 43.5x23.
3. The roof plays the role of a frame with strapping and is made of wooden boards. 4 holes are made on the side for ventilation. The top of the roof is sheathed with a metal sheet 1 mm thick.
   

   Important! All parts are connected using liquid nails.

4. The bottom is made removable and with a lower entrance.
5. Ceiling slats are necessary for making the roof liner.
6. Pads are ideal option for insulation.
7. Additionally, partitions are made to separate the uterus, handles are made for easy carrying and fastening to prevent shifting during transportation.

Drawings and dimensions

Characteristics of the hive with a 145 mm frame:

• ease of work;
• protection against hypothermia of the brood;
• with constant rearrangement of buildings, rapid growth of bees;
• conscientious signet of honeycombs;
• a house with a 145 mm frame allows you to keep more than one family;
• V winter period, insects easily move from one box to another.

The 145 mm frame is used for magazine extensions. Most beekeepers do not like to use a frame of this size, since they have to use large number frames for one hive, although they make the work easier. Instead of a 145 mm frame, you can use a 230 mm frame.

A multi-body hive for a 300 mm frame with two bodies for 12 frames is a popular model that is used in many regions of our vast country. There will be such a hive an indispensable assistant, both for beginners and experienced beekeepers.

Advantages

Multi-house keeping of bees has a number of advantages:

1. Ease of movement - the light weight of the box allows it to be easily transported.
2. A beekeeper can easily make a multi-body hive on his own.
3. The significant volume allows the bees to develop quickly.
4. The unification of families is carried out carefully.
5. Multi-box housing makes it possible to prevent swarming: when the colony grows, an additional box is installed between 2 boxes to separate the brood.
6. When rearranging the housings, the beekeeper forces the insects to work more intensively on building up the combs.
7. Working with multi-hull hives is easy; the hives with frames can be rearranged independently.
8. Multi-body hives make it easy to strengthen a colony. After winter, orphaned insects are placed with strong families.

Features of wintering

With the onset of winter, in order for insects to feel comfortable, you need to create for them good conditions for accommodation.
Strong colonies are placed in separate buildings, boxes with weak, few bees are placed together. Wintering of bees in a multi-hull hive should take place in a multi-tiered structure. The lower level will be occupied by bees with brood, the upper level is intended for feeding frames with sealed honey and pollen.

As stocks are destroyed, insects move up the frames. When insects occupy the upper tier, the lower one should not be left behind. It is better to carry out cleaning and disinfection with the arrival of warm days.

After wintering, the beekeeper must conduct a complete inspection of the entire hive to determine the viability of the queen.

The rearrangement is carried out in the spring, when the willow tree begins to bloom. This procedure is performed in the evening so as not to disturb the insects.

a – body in spring; b – installation of the second box; c – first movement; d – installation of the third body in cross-section; e – installation of the fourth box and the second rearrangement (the hive should be in this position in front of the main bribe).

Expanding your living space and growing your family

It is much easier to increase a bee colony in multi-hull hives than in hives or double-hull hives.
The living space for insects is expanded by installing additional boxes. This will allow the queen bee to lay more eggs, maintain several colonies, strengthen weak ones, and also obtain a large amount of honey.

The bee colony is enlarged by installing additional boxes. In order to force the queen bee to lay more eggs, it is necessary to move the upper body to the lower tier. The queen will instinctively move upward and begin laying a new batch of eggs. It is better to strengthen the family on warm days.

As soon as the brood hatches in two buildings, it is necessary to place a third hole to prevent swarming.

Space saving

An increase in bees may not occur due to sudden changes in temperature, a rainy summer season or during a period of drought. At this time, there is no need to expand and strengthen families.

When bad weather conditions, it is better to slow down the development of weak families and move them to a smaller area. You can save space by dividing the buildings with floors, thereby providing living space for two families at once.

Multi-hull keeping of insects is not an easy task; it requires knowledge and skills of beekeeping. In order to understand how to keep bees in a multi-hull hive, as well as visually see the construction of the housing and work in the apiary, we provide a training video. From it you can learn a lot of useful things for novice beekeepers and introduce a method of multi-house keeping bees in your own apiary.

How bees were kept in multi-hull hives during the Soviet Union (video)

Let's look together at drawing 10 of the frame hive, the history of its appearance and design features. Let's figure out why many beekeepers choose it as the main one in their apiaries.

Types, characteristics and features of hives

In the modern art of beekeeping, there is a fairly large number of different designs. Many continue to use those that were inherited from the previous owner of the apiary, some buy new ones. The longer the master uses a large amount various products, the more inclined one is to one type or another.

Some are even beginning to produce new types, assembling various components of various systems. This is how new hives are obtained, during the operation of which they either take root among beekeepers, or everyone forgets about them.

There are quite a few such professionals, and we will not list the new features that constantly appear in this environment. I would like to talk about designs that have long been recognized as classics and are considered one of the best examples.

One of the most outstanding beekeepers was the French master Charles Dadan, who developed a design that is still considered one of the best and is used in many apiaries in our country.

Beekeepers have appreciated this system, which consists of one large building below and several, half the size of the main one, on top for storing honey.

All types of frame hives divided into horizontal and vertical. Very convenient for those who for some reason cannot lift heavy weights.

Such a hive is also good for peace of mind, when there is no need to accumulate a lot of honey, ohespecially when the beekeeper's main focus is on raising the bee and getting to know it inner world and devices.

For beginners, it would be a good idea to start familiarizing yourself with these design features.

Horizontal - hive-beds. They are good because there is no need to operate with heavy bodies, and when a new family is formed (layering), a partition can be inserted next to the main frames, then the frames with the newly formed family can be moved before the birth of the uterus.

There are several options for beehives, which are the most common:

1. Ukrainian;
2. Lyansa;
3. Slavic;
4. Galician;
5. Levitsky;
6. Warsaw;
7. Vashchenko;
8. Dokuchaeva;
9. Dolinsky.

All hives of this type differ from vertical ones in that they have a large frame installed, which is almost twice the size. Accordingly, the design and location of the socket is slightly different from multi-body structures.

Worth knowing!Most of the above designs have quite large size and weight, therefore cannot be used in apiaries that move closer to the honey collection site.

If we talk about vertical structures, then it must immediately be said that such hives are most common in apiary lands and outdoor areas. IN recent years beekeepers are increasingly leaning towards this basis, and communication with beekeepers at numerous fairs and gatherings confirms this.

What are the benefits of multi-tiered products? The answer is simple. They are the ones who most effectively make it possible to accumulate honey for its subsequent collection and sale.

When creating a large apiary (over 10 families), you are unlikely to think about calming your soul and doing what you love. The apiary becomes your job and earning a living.

It takes up almost all of your time and requires a lot of attention. Therefore for maximum efficiency and multi-body hives are selected.

The arrangement of parts in them has some consistency. In the spring, the first body with a formed nest and queen is placed.

Then, when the family and the first young animals expand, a second building is installed, into which the first honey collection begins. After the family has grown stronger, the third building is erected. The fourth - during the period of maximum honey collection.

At some points you can see the installation of the fifth extension. This occurs when it is necessary to form a new layer. The difficulty with all this is that it is constantly necessary to swap bodies in order to achieve certain results, which is quite troublesome and requires a certain amount of physical effort.

Speaking about our 10 frame hive, you also need to know all the subtleties of this art, but the physical costs will be an order of magnitude less, due to the fact that it has a body half the size of the standard lower one, or as in the Langstroth-Ruth design.

To compare our Dadan hive, let's give some characteristics of its main competitor, namely the Langstroth-Ruth multi-body hive.

This hive is the leader industrial production multi-tiered houses due to its size. R The amki in this product exceed the dimensions of Dadanovsky, Accordingly, you can collect more honey from them, however, as mentioned above, they are quite cumbersome.

Advantages of this type:

1. All frames are the same size;
2. Easy to find repair units;
3. Possibility of increasing the bee colony;
4. The dimensions of the cases are the same, easy to transport.

In principle, all this can be attributed to our hive, but there are some differences, which we will talk about in the next chapter.

10 frame hive, its design and manufacture

Making a hive at home is quite easy, but you must have some tools and some basic carpentry skills. Long winter days, when the main work in the apiary is absent, it’s time to start preparing for the new season.

One of these issues that every beekeeper faces is houses for bee colonies, because every spring the issue of swarming arises acutely and, perhaps, you need to increase your apiary to more bee families.

To make hives, you need to take willow or alder wood, but ordinary pine will also work well.

What you need to have in your arsenal:

• Rail or beam;
• A board 1-1.5 centimeters thick for the roof;
• 2.2-4 centimeter board for the body;
• Saw;
• Hammer;
• Screwdriver;
• Plane;
• Connecting material (screws, nails).

Before starting production, it is necessary to process all the material with a plane so that there are smooth edges.

After the board is prepared, it is necessary to begin assembly from the inside of the tier/hive, connecting the boards cut to the required size using glue.

The outer part is made like shields, inside which we place the inner body and fasten both bodies together with nails.

Pay attention!It is not permissible for the fastening material to protrude on the inner walls of the house when connecting. Give it your time special attention when choosing the required length of a nail or screw.

All parts are fastened at an angle of 90 degrees using a special tool. Before you begin installing the bottom and lid, you need to cut out the tapholes of the required size. The size of the tapholes is standard: lower (10x250 mm), upper (10x100 mm).

The top cover is made with a pediment and a ceiling for ventilation, this distance is vital in summer period. For the winter, the ceiling can be filled with insulating material.

The lower part of the hive (bottom) can be made either blank or with a special tray for cleaning dead mites and bee waste, which is very convenient when servicing large beekeeping farms.

If the hives are made with a solid bottom, try placing a small dense sheet on the bottom during operation corrugated paper, consisting of 2 parts - this will simplify the task of cleaning up garbage.

Also remember that you need to choose only dry wood that will long-term use will have minimal performance when drying out. The bees will solve small shortcomings themselves by covering up the resulting cracks with propolis.

So, you have become the owner of a new house for bees. Don’t forget to completely dry it before use and treat the inside with a special solution, or simply burn it with a blowtorch.

The advantage of this design system

As mentioned above, this multi-body hive design performs quite well in large outdoor apiaries.

It is especially good to use them on large special platforms for bees, where during the first spring trips you can install only one housing, and in the process of expanding the colony and increasing honey yield, deliver the housings without removing them from the transport structure.

It will be quite easy for you to transport them to another field and to large honey fields by installing the high sides that come with such a trailer. On at the moment for the size of the frames that are installed in them, there is large selection various tools (honey extractor, etc.).

The distribution of such houses is constantly growing, which is good news. Many who have been trained to manage standard beehives are gradually switching to multi-tiered products, as the advantages of such systems are obvious.

Modern beekeepers have significantly greater opportunities than their ancestors. All the necessary equipment can be bought, but there is always a temptation to make it yourself. First of all, this concerns housing for bees, because building it yourself inspires great confidence in the final result. In addition, you can get good savings, because the cost of the material is significantly lower than the cost of the finished evidence. Let's try to prove this by building a multi-frame hive with 10 frames.

Features of working with the hive

In most cases, a multi-body hive has a design of 4 identical bodies. Each contains 10 frames measuring 435x230 mm. Compared to the usual one, it has a number of undeniable advantages. Perhaps the most important thing is that the brood of bees in such hives is 30% larger. The same applies to capacity, which, according to the most conservative estimates, is 2 times higher. You can find out more about working with multi-hull bee houses in our previous posts.

Thanks to the special design, they are created optimal conditions for wintering bees, they acquire stronger immunity and get sick less in the spring.

DIY making

If you can hold a hammer in your hands and have minimal construction skills, then the technology for building such a hive will not baffle you. Subject to availability necessary materials and tools, all work will take you a couple of days. Who knows, maybe the process will captivate you so much that in the future you will transfer your entire apiary to such hives.

Materials and tools

To build a hive with your own hands, you will need high quality wood. It should be well dried and free of knots. Minimum storage time is 1 year. Give preference to soft breeds that do not contain resin. The thickness of the board should be 3.5 cm.

In addition to wood, you will need a tin sheet for the roof and the following tools:

• drill;
• clamp;
• grinder;
• woodworking machine;
• universal glue;
• nails;
• hammer;
• other tools as needed.

Step by step instructions

Frame

When finished, the size of the side wall should be 540x245 mm, and the size of the rear and front walls should be 245x465 mm. Keeping these dimensions in mind, we begin work in the following sequence:

1. From wooden board We cut out the workpiece, leaving an allowance of 3 mm on each side, and for trimming - 10 mm.
2. We make cuts for the tenons, removing the gaps between them using a chisel. This will help prevent the board from splitting.
3. We lay the side wall face down on the workbench, and place the wall on top of it so that the front edges are flush with the tenons. We mark the eyes and transfer the contours of the tenon to the board. To avoid mixing up the sides, number the corners.
4. Along the upper edge we remove the folds on the inside of the case (depth 17 mm, width 11 mm). We install the frame so that the top edge is 77 mm above its edge. Using a sander (or regular sandpaper) we process the inner surface of the wall.
5. We make recesses for hands on all walls. We make an indent from the top of the body by 7 mm. On the front wall of the hive under the recess we make a hole with a diameter of 25 mm. There will be a ventilation hole in front of it.

Roof

Before starting work, you should decide on the type of roof. There are only two options for a do-it-yourself roof: regular and with additional ventilation. The latter is characterized by better air circulation inside the hive during the migration period. Let's stop there.

1. We nail slats to the side of the walls, the size of which is 8x20 mm.
2. We fix the tin on top, and nail 20 mm slats to the shield. Subsequently, they will serve as a support for the roof.

Bottom

A multi-body 10-frame hive is characterized by the use of a removable double-sided bottom, which consists of 3 bars - 2 side and 1 rear. In the inner part of the frame, it is necessary to make a 350x100 mm groove in the beams at a distance of 20 mm from the edge. The bottom is connected to the frame using a tongue-and-groove type. Thus, on the fourth side you will have a 20 mm gap designed for constant air circulation.

Ceiling

The ceiling dimensions are 445x520 mm. They include a headband and a shield. The rim is made of slats measuring 15x35 mm. The ceiling is performed in the following sequence:

1. On the slats you need to select a groove of 10x10 mm. Three slats are tied into a frame, ceiling boards are inserted into it, then the fourth slat is fixed.
2. In the center of the ceiling you need to cut a hole 40x100 mm. It is necessary for ventilation in winter and installation of the feeder. After this I connect the ceiling to the hive.

The final stage of work

Our DIY multi-body hive is almost ready. Now is the time to insert frames into it. At the same time, it is very important to maintain the interval between the centers of the frames, which is approximately 37 mm. The distance between the outer frames and the wall of the hive should be at least 8 mm, and to the bottom - 20 mm.

An integral element of the hive is the landing - a platform made of trapezoidal boards. It is placed immediately behind the taphole, making a slight slope to drain water. The bottom should contain a hole that will help the bees leave the hive and get back into it.

The final touch of DIY work is making a stand for the hive. It is made in the form of a box from the same wood that the hive is made of. The size of the stand should match the size of the hive to ensure good stability for it. Finally the work is completed. Now you have not only a wonderful house for bees with 10 frames, but also a great reason to be proud, because you made it yourself.

Photo gallery

Do-it-yourself ready-made version of evidence for 10 frames

Ready-made cases for 10 frames

Scheme of a multi-body hive with 10 frames

Video “Multihull for 10 frames”

The video provides a short overview of a multi-body hive with 10 frames. Find out what its features are now, so that making it yourself becomes even easier.

The multi-body hive has many advantages and is widely used by beekeepers various countries. It is very spacious and easy to use, which is why it is so popular.

History of creation

The author and inventor of the multi-body hive is an American beekeeper L. Langstroth. This happened back in 1851. All subsequent years, his invention was modified and brought to the classic version.

Multi-body hives are very popular in America, Canada, the USA and New Zealand. They have four or more bodies.

Peculiarities

The main feature is that this hive consists of several special extensions (about 6). The height of the 3 upper ones is 10 inches each, the lower extensions are 6. This is due to the peculiarity of the life of bees.

In a multi-body hive, the bottom is removable. It looks like a frame. The shield is assembled from boards, the thickness of which is approximately 30 mm. It is assembled and installed at an angle, which makes cleaning the hive easier.

The flight device consists of a board and two holder supports. If the landing device is folded back, the board rests on a special stop. When bees need to be transported somewhere, this hole is closed.

Two timbers are placed at the bottom. This is done to protect against rotting and facilitates transportation of the multi-hull hive.

Multi-body hive design

This bee house is very comfortable and perfect. It consists of several parts that can be added or removed depending on the season. Next, I want to introduce you to the main parts of a multi-body hive.

Components of a multi-body hive:

• four or more bodies;
• one bottom;
• ten frames;
• ceiling;
• liner;
• roof;
• stands;
• dividing grid.

1. The main material for the construction of a multi-hull hive is board. Only its thickness should not exceed 35 mm. In the corners the boards are joined into quarters. There are folds on the top and bottom edges. The entrances are located in the front walls, covered with plugs if necessary.

2. Side walls equipped with special sinks for ease of transportation. The ceiling of one building has five ceilings, fastened with strips. The tenoned roof cover is a frame and serves as a support for feeders; it can be used to insulate the hive or to create the necessary space for transportation. The thickness of the tenon is 25 mm, it is connected at the corners and edged with metal.

3. Frame for ventilation more often used when transporting. It is made with cell dimensions of 3*3 mm, and is made in the form of a strapping.

4. roof They are made by tying the shield with boards, the thickness of which is 25 mm and the height of 105 mm. This allows you to use an insulating pillow if necessary.

Dimensions of a multi-body hive

• Each case contains 10 frames, the size of which is 230 * 435 mm.
• One case has the following dimensions: length – 450 mm, height – 250 mm, width – 375 mm.
• The thickness of the material and the walls, respectively, is 35 mm.
• To reduce the cross-section of the entrance, an insert with a cross-section of 20*20 mm and a length of 100 mm is placed in the bottom of the hive.
• Frame for ventilation with cell dimensions 3*3 mm.
• Roof with boards, the thickness of which is 25 mm and the height is 105 mm.

Features of the manufacturing process

Try to adhere to the specified dimensions and use only quality materials for making a house for bees. Like other types of hives, the multi-body hive has its own manufacturing features and I want to tell you about some of them.

The roof on a multi-hull hive is installed tightly, avoiding cracks. The outside of the roof is covered with roofing tin.

The walls of the building are equipped with windows for ventilation; they have grilles made of metal mesh. It is highly advisable to install the hives on stands that exceed the dimensions of the bottom.

Making a multi-body hive with your own hands

Before starting work, take dry boards (preferably spruce) and cut them into half-meter pieces. Make the edges smooth. The whole process takes place using a machine. It is better to make the walls of the case from 2 boards ( wide – 160 mm, narrow – 90 mm). Place them on the side support, spreading the board lengthwise (as shown in the photo).

Using a thicknesser or with your own hands, press the board and plan the workpieces on both sides. In this case, bend the thickness to 35 mm. Next, press it against the vertical stop as shown in the figure. Glue the walls into tongue and groove.

Select a groove (10*10mm) in the blanks on one side in the center. Next, glue the walls together, coat the groove with glue, inserting previously prepared slats with a cross-section of 10*20mm into it, and also apply PVA at the top. Connect the wider board with the narrow one and clamp it in a clamp (you can also do this yourself). Wait about 4 hours and remove and glue the remaining parts.

Take the grinder and sandpaper and eliminate uneven parts. Cut the remaining pieces to the above dimensions. Also cut the ends of the workpieces at an angle of 90 degrees. Place a limiter on the table and cut off the walls.

The next step is to select the folds. At the top of the front and back walls, select a groove where you will insert the hangers of the frames (size 9*20mm).

Plus another sample for connecting the corners of the body. Using a drill, drill a hole for the top tap hole.

Then we make a shell for comfortable grip of the body. Along the edge of all walls, make 3 holes for self-tapping screws. Fasten all the walls with self-tapping screws. And a multi-hulled hive emerged.

Drawings of a multi-body hive

In this drawing you can see a section of the hive (A - along the frames, B - section across the frames). All dimensions and main structural elements are indicated here.

1 - bottom; 2 - body; 3 - frame; 4 - ceiling; 5 - liner; 5 - ventilation frame; 7 - roof.

Advantages of a multi-body hive

1. Caring for bees in such a housing is not particularly difficult;
2. The weight of the body of this hive is lighter than usual;
3. If necessary, you can change the nesting volume; this can be done not only with individual frames, but also with entire housings;
4. The ability to create strong families, maintaining them in working condition without the problem of swarms;
5. Large space for the work and brood of bees, etc.

Video about making a multi-body hive