Sharpening knives Strict requirements are also imposed on knife sharpening. You need to sharpen it on both sides, keeping the entire plane on the block, but, however, placing emphasis on the blade. And only with subsequent adjustments on the touchstone or filling board can you allow a small, 0.5–1 mm,

Sharpening profile chisels Rough sharpening and chamfering of semicircular and sloping chisels is usually done on a grinding wheel (Fig. 9, i). Due to the radius section of the blade, it is necessary to carefully monitor the uniform turning of the entire surface of the chamfer - a chisel

The cutting tool becomes dull in the process of working with wood. A dull tool crushes the wood, making the carving look rough and sloppy. A tool blade sharpened to the required sharpness and tucked in makes the carved product clean and makes work easier. Good master always keeps his tools sharp and ready for use at any time. A properly sharpened tool lasts longer, and vice versa - if there are defects, it quickly becomes unusable. Every woodcarver should be able to sharpen and refuel his tool himself using an electric sharpener, a sharpener with manual drive or manually.

Sharpening and straightening on an electric sharpener. The fastest and most convenient way is to sharpen and refuel a tool using an electric sharpener. various devices. The most convenient is an electric sharpener, on the motor shaft of which you can install replaceable abrasive and finishing wheels on both sides - rubber with abrasive and felt (Fig. 75).

Rice. 75.
Electric sharpener for sharpening and dressing tools:
a - modernized double-sided sharpener with devices for sharpening, straightening and polishing tools: 1 - sliding stop; 2 - felt circle, 3 - protective screen; 4 - abrasive wheel; 5 - engine; 6 - movable url device: 1 - horizontal movement clamp; 2 - movable platform for selecting the sharpening angle; 3 - vertical movement fixing bolt; b - device for straightening and fitting the tool (diagram): 1 - electric motor; 2 - belt drive; 3 - felt circles; 4 - wooden circles for corners; 5 - rubber wheels with abrasive; 6 - bearings; 7 - metal frame; 8 - movable stop; 9 - shaft

Before you start work, you need to prepare everything you need. A woodcarver constantly needs a variety of chisels, for sharpening and refilling of which you need to have a large set of abrasive wheels. For profile chisels (corners, semicircular and flat) you need appropriate circles, which you can make yourself by giving them the desired profile using a piece of an abrasive wheel of increased hardness.

The emphasis on the electric sharpener must be movable so that it can be moved in vertical and horizontal directions. The platform on the stop should also change the angle of inclination or you need to have several platforms with different angles. Place a container of water next to the sharpener.

Tool sharpening techniques. To master correct technique and techniques for sharpening a tool blade, you must adhere to certain rules. First, install a suitable abrasive wheel and determine the desired sharpening angle of the blade, secure the stop and platform so that there are no vibrations or even slight displacements, turn on the electric motor and begin sharpening. The basis for proper sharpening of a tool is chamfering (Fig. 76).

Rice. 76.
Chamfering:
a - on straight chisels; b - on semicircular and sloping chisels: 1 - external chamfer; 2 - internal chamfer; c - on corner chisels: 1 - internal chamfer; 2 - external chamfer

When grinding a chamfer, take the handle of the chisel in right hand(Fig. 77), and with your left hand hold it in the middle part and lightly press the blade against the abrasive wheel. It is necessary to ensure that the chamfer is sharpened evenly in one plane over the entire width; to do this, the chisel blade is shifted from left to right and back. Semicircular and flat chisels are rotated evenly during sharpening. It is necessary to constantly lower the chisel blade into water, otherwise you can burn out the blade and the chamfer will become wrinkled. Such a tool becomes unusable; you have to grind off a lot of metal, which shortens the length of the chisel blade.

Rice. 77.
Position of the chisel when sharpening (arrows indicate the direction of movement of the chisel):
1 - straight chisel: 2 - semicircular and sloping; 3 - corner chisel

When burrs appear, replace the coarse-grained abrasive wheel with a fine-grained one and sharpen the chamfer, making the burr completely invisible. Then the chisel is finally adjusted on a thick felt circle with GOI paste. If there is no paste, it can be replaced with oil artistic paint“chromium oxide” or prepare it yourself from 80 parts of chromium oxide, 12 parts of wax or paraffin, 3 parts of kerosene and 5 parts of fat. The dressing paste is rubbed into the felt circle evenly around the entire circumference.

Since the tool becomes dull during the carving process, from time to time it has to be re-threaded on felt wheels. It is advisable to have a device (see Fig. 75), on the shaft of which felt wheels with profile shapes and finishing wheels for polishing the surfaces of chisels are attached. To fill the corners, use wooden circles carved from linden or other soft wood coated with dressing paste.

Polish the tool on finishing wheels (rubber with abrasive or corundum). But the chisel blade itself cannot be polished on finishing wheels, as it becomes rounded and blunt. For sharpening and refueling the tool, you can adapt an electric drill, using it as an electric sharpener.

Sharpening and dressing of tools by hand is possible with a set of simple and profiled whetstones of varying hardness and grain size, as well as profiled and simple whetstones.

Rice. 78.
Hand sharpener:
1 - factory-made; 2 - homemade

For convenience and speed of sharpening and straightening, you can use a hand sharpener (Fig. 78) or make the device shown in Fig. 79, however, in some cases you have to hold the whetstone in your hands, which is not very convenient.

Rice. 79.
Device for sharpening and dressing tools manually

Wooden shields with bars and whetstones inserted or glued into them can be coated with waterproof varnish or impregnated with hot wax, mastic or paraffin to prevent cracking and unsticking, since the whetstones and whetstones are moistened with water during tool sharpening.

The tool is first sharpened on a coarse-grained whetstone, then on a fine-grained one and straightened on a whetstone, micro-corundum stone, canvas or leather belt with GOI paste, or on a dressing board with diamond or dressing paste.

Sharpening a joint. Knives and chisels are sharpened with a bevel angle from 30 to 80°, depending on the complexity of the carved ornament, its depth, size and curvilinear shape (Fig. 80). The bevel and chamfer angles on both sides of the blade can be obtained using a manual sharpener. Then sharpening and refueling are carried out on whetstones and whetstones.

Rice. 80.
Sharpening a joint with one bevel:
a - sharpening parameters: 1 - chamfer; 2 - sock; 3 - blade; 4 - heel; 6 - hand position when working

During sharpening, the knife or chisel is held so that the entire plane of the chamfer is adjacent to the block. Sharpen the joint with smooth and even movements, directing it back and forth or in a circle along the plane of the block until a thin burr appears on the edge of the blade. After this, they sharpen another bevel of the jamb, turning it over until the burr falls off completely. When processed on a fine-grained stone, the chamfers become completely smooth.

Then the joint is edited on a micro-corundum whetstone in the same sequence as on a block. After straightening, finishing is carried out on a straightening board or leather belt with diamond or GOI filling paste.

The jamb can also be sharpened in another way: on the wide chamfers of the jamb, a second chamfer is ground off near the blade; it is faster and more convenient to thread it during operation (Fig. 81).

Rice. 81.
Sharpening a double bevel jamb:
1 - first chamfer, 2 - second chamfer

Check the sharpness of the joint on a pine or spruce board by making cuts across the grain of the wood. If the blade enters the wood easily and the cut is smooth, without breaking the fibers, the joint is sufficiently sharpened.

Sharpening straight chisels

Straight chisels are sharpened and straightened in the same way as a jamb, but if a burr appears on the chamfer, the blade of the chisel is not turned over, but continues to be sharpened on a fine-grained whetstone and finished on a whetstone. Finishing is carried out on a straightening board or belts with GOI paste (Fig. 82).

Rice. 82.
Sharpening a straight chisel:
1 - hand position; 2 - correct tilt of the chisel when sharpening a chamfer; 3 - incorrect tilt of the chisel

Sharpening and straightening profile chisels. Profile chisels are sharpened on a board with a set of whetstones and whetstones having a suitable profile (Fig. 83). The internal surfaces of chisels are processed with smooth movements back and forth along the length of the block or whetstone; They also sharpen the bevels of the chisel, turning it from side to side until the burr falls off. Having received smooth surface on a fine-grained whetstone, the chisel is adjusted on a belt or straightening board coated with dressing or diamond paste.

Rice. 83.
Sharpening and editing a profile chisel:
1 - board with a set of profile bars and touchstones; 2 - straightening board with chisel profiles; 3 - leather or canvas belt for straightening

Sharpening and setting saws. Carving requires a lot of work. various saws(hacksaws, bowsaws and others), which require sharpening and sharpening quite often. Dull saws make work much more difficult.

In Fig. 84 there are several devices for quick sharpening drank

Rice. 84.
Tools for sharpening saws:
a - clamp in a vice: 1 - saw; 2 - wooden spacers; 3 - file with rubber tip; b - wedge clamp: 1 - saw; 2 - wedge clamp

Rice. 84 (continued). Devices for sharpening saws: clamp to a workbench with clamps: 1 - file; 2 - gaskets; 3 - saw; 4 - clamps; g - clamp for bow saw

If the saw hits a stone, nail or other metal object, then one side of the teeth or several teeth become shorter. Because of this, the pipa “moves” away from the desired direction, so damaged teeth must be aligned - milled (Fig. 85).

Rice. 85.
Tool for aligning saw teeth:
a - with a triangular file; b - with a rectangular file: 1 - saw; 2 - file; 3 - block; 4 - wedge; 5 - rubber hose

The correct setting of saw teeth also has great value. Even a sharply sharpened saw does not cut well without cutting. Moreover, each saw is intended for specific purposes and must have a different blade. Saws with a wide tooth spread are used for working with soft, wet and loose rocks; dense and hardwood requires a small tooth set.

The saws are set using manual and mechanical settings (Fig. 86). The opening angle is adjusted by the width of the wiring slot or by setting the desired inclination in mechanical wiring.

Rice. 86.
Saw layouts:
1 - set of teeth; 2 - types of wiring

There is one true rule: a sharp blade is much safer than a dull one. That's right! The rule applies not only to the production of sharp edges of a chisel, but also to other carpentry and even kitchen utensils. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary that the pointed edge of the chisel is regularly cleaned at least a couple of times a year. If the tool is actively used in work, it is necessary to clean it much more often.

Initial stage

Even a set of brand new chisels that have not yet been used in work may not be suitable for starting to work with them. Even though they remain sharp for a very long time, you should know how to sharpen a chisel Right. After all, the quality of the work performed depends on this.

If the joinery is a little old, has a little uneven edges or rust, then you can correct this with a sanding wheel. Gently hold the beveled chisel against the grinding wheel to remove large burrs and rust.

To work, you need a three-level sharpening stone - the smallest, beginner and medium, in order to achieve greater sharpness of the chisel. Sharpening stones can be purchased at hardware stores or garden stores, they are quite often used for sharpening kitchen knives. The stone you purchase should come with lubricant, or purchase it separately. Note:

• Do not use water-based lubricant on oil stones. You need to buy for them special means in construction stores;
• Waterstones prefer water as a lubricant. They need to be soaked in plain water for a few minutes, after which they can be used. This method is quite common in Japan.

Now you need to prepare the stones accordingly. Usually such stones come with instructions. Instructions are also written for oil lubricants.

Sharpening a chisel

We begin to sharpen our s flat side, it should be so sharp that it looks like a mirror. We begin to move the tool intensively along the sharpening stone. It is important that when sharpening, your hand is fixed, so the chisel will be sharpened smoothly. Do not allow yourself sudden movements: everything should be slow and as smooth as possible.

When minor scratches begin to appear on the whetstone, move to the fine-grained side, and then to the very fine side. The flat or, as it is also called, the even side of the tool will be ideally sharpened when it begins to look like a mirror.
Some tips:

• You can't move anything whetstone, nor a chisel from the side, to the sides. We move only along the length of the sharpening stone.
• When working, use the entire surface of the sharpening stone.
• Be sure to clean your hands and chisel of dust, as it will obscure appearance products.

Wood chisel sharpening angle

This can be done manually, but there is a very high chance of making a mistake. To get perfect angle tilt, place the chisel in a special sharpening device, tighten the screws so that the product is firmly fixed. The angle of inclination largely depends on the type of chisel being sharpened:

• cleaning the chisel - set at an angle of about 20 degrees;
• for a regular chisel, increase the angle by five degrees.

Additional finishes

Usually, after sharpening, the chisel can already be used, but if you want it to be even sharper, then it makes sense to add a microbevel. In fact, this is another small bevel, which is made at the very tip of the chamfer. This necessary step when performing very delicate and precise work. To make a micro-bevel, you need to adjust the sharpening apparatus to work at an angle of 5 degrees. Repeat the work done using a fine-grained stone.

On July 28, 2009, Alexander Konyaev on my balcony-workshop gave a master class on sharpening a “completely killed” chisel (the blade is jagged). Chisel by blacksmith Charles Hill from Cheffield (England); Apparently she is at least 100 years old. We discussed this rarity on the forum: . Alexander was assisted by Zifa Mansurova, filmed and slightly prompted by Oleg Smirnov.

Technology

Stage 1. Sharpening the chisel on sharpening machine.

Stage 2. Finishing the blade on whetstones

Stage 3. Polishing the blade on a felt wheel

Let's look at the steps in the video.

Stage 1. Sharpening a chisel on a sharpening machine

Main know-how:

1. When sharpening, the blade does not touch the pad sharpening machine. You need to catch it, feel the plane of the blade with your fingers.

2. Sharpening continues until a “sharpening” or “fringe” appears (I called the sharpening a “beard”).

3. Continuously wet the blade in water so as not to burn it.

Stage 2. Finishing the blade on whetstones

Main know-how:

1. First we use a coarse whetstone, then a finer one. Touchstones are aquatic, pre-soaked in water and always kept wet.

2. The fringe should never be broken off by hand! The fringe should remain on the shards or fall off on its own.

3. We finish finishing until all the fringe falls off.

The fringe looks like this:

Stage 3. Polishing the blade on a felt wheel

Main know-how:

1. The essence of polishing on a felt wheel is to burn off the remaining fringe and polish the surface of the cutting edge.