Homemade tools and gadgets for earning money at home. Homemade machines for home workshops. Vertical tool holders

Any owner of a workshop, even if it does not have a separate room and is simply organized in a garage, strives to equip it with everything necessary for comfortable, productive and, most importantly, high-quality work. But nowadays you can’t “get far” with a hand tool. A great variety of power tools, various multifunctional or narrow-profile machines, and auxiliary equipment comes to the rescue. There are no problems with supply - the main difficulty is that high-quality products cost a lot of money, and not everyone can afford it.

But craftsmen find a way out of the situation by making such machines and devices on their own, some of which may well compete with factory models. Moreover, to create such equipment, they use quite available materials, often just collecting dust in the barn. And running power tools, usually found in any workshop, are widely used as drives.

This publication will discuss only some homemade machines and devices for the home workshop. It should be correctly understood that it is simply impossible to cover all the available variety of such equipment within the framework of one article. It’s time to give this topic a separate site altogether. So this will mostly be a general overview. But the production of two models, very important, probably, for any workshop - a pendulum saw and sharpening machine For cutting tool, we will consider step by step, with all the nuances, from the first outlines to testing.

The basics are a convenient workbench and organized storage of tools and accessories.

The comfort of working in the workshop depends on many important conditions. If we take the issues of heating, ventilation and lighting out of the picture (these are topics for separate consideration), then the rational, convenient organization of the main workplace always comes to the fore.

We are talking about a workbench and a well-thought-out storage system for tools, accessories, consumables and other small items necessary for work.

The workbench is selected or made independently, depending on the main direction of work in the workshop.

“Classic” carpentry workbench

If the owner is more focused on wood processing, then he will need a carpentry workbench. There is a long-used and extensively tested general concept for such a workplace. It probably makes sense to stick to it when making your own workbench.

The workbench is based on powerful wooden legs(pos. 1), which from below, at the base, are usually connected in pairs by supports-jumpers (pos. 2). There is a cover on top - a workbench board (item 3). As a rule, a recessed area is provided - the so-called tray (item 4) so that during work the tools or components necessary at hand do not fall on the floor.

Usually with right side there is a side or rear clamp (pos. 5). In essence, this is a screw vice, which has a wedge that extends upward (item 6). Along the line of this wedge along the bench board there is a row of slots (item 7) for similar wedges (they can be hidden in these slots or stored separately and inserted as needed). This allows you to rigidly fasten a wooden workpiece for processing between the wedges of the table and the side vice.

To secure a long part that cannot be secured between the outer wedges, use the front clamp (item 8). This is also a screw vice that is capable of clamping the workpiece between the front end of the workbench and a movable wooden jaw. And in order for the long part to have the necessary support points from below, fingers or retractable supports hidden there in the grooves extend from the end of the workbench (item 9).

The lower area of the workbench is called the underbench (item 10). As a rule, there are powerful crossbars (legs) that connect the legs of the layout in pairs in the longitudinal direction. These crossbars often contain shelves for storing tools or workpieces, or even, as shown in the diagram shown, a closed cabinet.

Below is a drawing of the workbench. Anyone who can read diagrams and has carpentry skills will be able to make such a model on their own.

To begin with, here is a general installation diagram of a carpentry workbench with dimensions.

Now - a series of drawings for individual parts and components of the structure.

For the manufacture of underbench (base) parts, it is usually used quality wood coniferous species with a residual moisture content of no more than 12%.

The bench board (cover) is mainly made from hardwood - it can be beech or oak, ash or maple. Making such a massive dimensional panel yourself is an extremely difficult task, so often a ready-made laminated board is ordered or purchased from a carpentry workshop. This is unlikely to seem like an overly expensive solution, given the cost of the material and the complexity of the process. So it’s more profitable to purchase a finished product, and then modify it for a workbench.

By the way, when performing various processing operations, one way or another, the surface of the desktop will be damaged. To maximize the life of the workbench, the lid is often covered with a plywood or fiberboard sheet (naturally, according to the size of the table and with all the necessary grooves and sockets). As this coating wears out, it can be replaced with a new one - this is not so difficult and inexpensive.

Particularly difficult is usually the installation of the front and rear (side) clamps. In order to get truly functional and convenient devices, it is better to purchase the screw mechanism of the vice itself in a ready-made, assembled form. There are many models suitable for this purpose on sale.

To assemble these clamping units, you can use the following drawing as a guide:

Vise jaws must be made exclusively from hardwood, the dimensions and location of the holes are shown in the drawing. (It should be correctly understood that the location and diameter of the holes must correspond to the purchased screw mechanism).

And finally, the last diagram shows how to attach the rear fixed jaws of both vices to the workbench lid.

Of course, an example is shown here, and it may suit many in its “pure form,” that is, without changes. But if other dimensions are required (based, for example, on the available space), then you can draw up your own drawing, taking the demonstrated diagrams as a sample for assembling certain components. The principle still remains the same. If necessary, no one bothers you to make your own improvements, which, of course, should not negatively affect the strength of the structure.

Video: mechanic's workbench with his farts

If the master plans to mainly engage in metalworking operations, then he will need a completely different workbench, designed specifically for such purposes. Here, in contrast to the carpentry “classics”, there are an innumerable number of possible options. As a rule, steel profiles (angles, channels, profile pipes) and sheets are used for production. One of the quite worthy options is shown in the video below:

An important component of comfortable work in the workshop is always an optimized arrangement and storage system for tools and accessories. But we will not dwell on this, since a separate article is devoted to this topic on the pages of our portal.

How to make the workshop as comfortable as possible for work?

It’s convenient when you know where everything is and when necessary tool- always at hand. So it’s worth paying close attention to the system of cabinets, racks, cabinets, and intelligently organized storage areas consumables. This is especially important in cases where the size of the room does not allow for “clearance”. There is a special publication dedicated to questions on our portal.

Homemade machines and equipment

As already mentioned, the variety of homemade machines is extremely large, and it is simply impossible to talk about them all. Therefore, in this section of the article the reader will be offered several video reviews. And, in addition, the manufacture of two models of machines will be considered in detail, step by step.

Video - miniature wood lathe based on an electric drill

On the farm, there is often a need to carve one or another wooden part. round section. If you don’t do this professionally, then buy a real one. lathe- completely unprofitable. And it will take up a lot of space. But having at your disposal a miniature machine that can be stored in a closet and assembled as needed will never hurt. Moreover, its manufacture is not such a difficult matter.

You can verify this by watching the proposed video. Despite the fact that the author speaks English, all his actions are shown in detail and are quite understandable. And such a machine, guided by this video tip, is within the power of anyone to make.

Video - a circular saw based on a manual vertical electric saw

If there is a need to prepare a considerable number of wooden parts of the same size, then you can’t think of anything better than a stationary circular saw. And it is quite possible to make such a machine, and, again, in a collapsible version, which, due to its uselessness, does not take up practically any space at all.

All you need is a sheet of plywood, a few blocks and screws. And the main element of the design is a hand-held vertical saw

In the shown scene, the master removes part of the protective guard of a manual circular saw. This is not always necessary. It is quite possible that the free exit of the saw will be enough if you plan to cut not too thick workpieces.

Pendulum saw from an angle grinder - self-production step by step

When cutting workpieces or wood or metal, including profiles or round pipes, high precision is often required. Moreover, the accuracy is not only in linear dimensions, but also in the cutting angle. A typical example is when it is necessary to accurately cut blanks for a frame in which the joining of parts is either strictly perpendicular or at an angle of 45 degrees.

A pendulum saw allows you to perform this operation. The diagram above shows in a simplified form the principle of its structure and operation.

In any case, there is a reliable base (bed, frame) that ensures the stability of the machine (item 1). In many models, a work table with a system of guides, stops and clamps is organized on top of the bed, allowing you to accurately align the workpiece. There must be a slot (item 2), exactly into which the rotating circle or saw is lowered.

The support (item 3) of the swinging part of the machine is rigidly attached to the frame. It is equipped with a bearing block and an axis (pos. 4), relative to which the swinging platform-rocker arm (pos. 5) rotates. An electric drive (pos. 6) is located on this platform, transmitting rotation directly or through a transmission system (pos. 7) to a cutting tool - a cutting wheel or circular saw (pos. 8). A lever (pos. 9) or handle is provided, with which the master can smoothly lower the cutting disk down onto the workpiece mounted on the work table above the slot.

But the capabilities of this tool will become immeasurably wider if a special one is made for it. milling table. One of the options for such a homemade machine is in the proposed video.

Homemade machine for sharpening cutting tools - step by step

In the workshop, in the kitchen, and just around the house, a lot of cutting tools are used that need regular sharpening. Walking disc knife sharpeners provide a very short-term effect of sharpening the cutting edge, since they remove metal along the edge of the blade, and according to all the rules it is required - perpendicular to it. When sharpening by hand using whetstones or on a rotating sharpener, it is very difficult to accurately maintain optimal angle, especially so that it is equal along the entire length of the blade. By the way, this full sharpening angle is different for various types cutting tools - there are many separate publications on this topic on the Internet.

This means that in order to sharpen, for example, a knife with high quality, a device is required that would allow applying force with the translational direction of a flat abrasive perpendicular to cutting edge consistently along its entire length with a single, pre-inserted angle of inclination. And to provide visual control over the progress of the formation and sharpening of this cutting edge.

There are many such devices available for sale. But if there is a desire, then a similar machine can be made independently, using materials that may be found in a workshop or garage. Yes, if you buy what you need, it will be quite inexpensive. An example is shown step by step in the table below.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The entire structure of the machine, all its parts and components will be attached in one way or another to the base - the bed (frame). A profile pipe is well suited for its manufacture. square section 20×20 mm…
	...with a wall thickness of 2 mm. As will be clear later, there are no strict proportions of sizes - they are based on considerations of common sense, the strength of the structure being created, and the availability of certain materials.
	Blanks for the frame are cut from a profile pipe using a grinder: two pieces 250 mm long, and two more - 130 mm.
	In this example, the master will adjust the joining sides of the frame at an angle of 45 degrees. This requires a precise cut, so it is best to do it using a cutting machine. If it is not there, nothing prevents you from making the frame simpler, that is, placing its sides end-to-end. Then, instead of 130 mm, the small parts will be only 90 mm, since they will fit between the large ones. This will not affect the functionality of the sharpening machine in any way - the only thing is that there will be some loss of aesthetics.
	This is the frame we got after preparing the parts.
	The cut edges can be slightly adjusted, deburred, and a small chamfer for the weld seam can be cleaned.
	Then the frame is assembled on one side and welded along short vertical joints with a continuous seam. The seams are cleaned of slag and sanded with a grinder.
	Welded frame corner after cleaning. You can, of course, immediately boil it on both sides, but the master simply decided to supplement the frame with height-adjustable legs and stands. The operation is optional - it is quite acceptable to install the machine simply with the frame on a flat surface. But with stands, of course, it’s more interesting.
	This one adjustable leg with a nut - these are easy to find in any furniture hardware store. The nuts will just be welded into the corners of the frame.
	Holes are drilled in the corners into which the nuts will be placed before they are scalded.
	The nuts are inserted into the holes - this operation is carried out at all four corners of the frame.
	Now on one side of the frame (on its small side) you need to weld nuts into which the vertical stand of the machine will be screwed. To do this, at an equal distance from the corners, initially thin (3÷4 mm)…
	- and then the upper wall of the frame is drilled with a drill of 10 mm diameter.
	What is important here is stability, the stability of the assembly’s fastening, that is, you can’t get away with just a few turns of thread. Therefore, extended M8 nuts will be welded into the holes made. It is advisable to first machine their lower edge under the cylinder so that it fits tightly into the drilled holes.
	In fact, only one such socket is required to install the machine. But it is better to provide two symmetrical ones - who knows, perhaps in some cases it will be more convenient for the user to move the stand to a different position. This will take no more than a couple of minutes.
	After this, all the nuts are scalded. When tacking, you must ensure that the nuts do not move and are level. To do this, they can be held with a temporarily screwed-in long pin, controlling its position perpendicular to the plane of the frame. In addition, this measure reliably protects the thread of the nut from splashes of metal.
	Here's what happened: on the top side of the frame there are two welded nuts for the struts...
	...from the bottom there are four welded nuts in the corners for screwing in the adjustable supports. By the way, if the craftsman has at his disposal threaded rivets of the required diameter (M6 for the supports, and M8 for the stand), then you can get by with them, that is, avoid the operation of welding the nuts.
	The next step is to make a shelf on which the cutting tools will be fixed with a pressure plate. It can be made from a thick steel plate. But the master decided to give it a slight reverse slope, so he cuts it out from a corner with a 63 mm shelf. The length of the part is the width of the frame, that is, 130 mm.
	First, the required piece of corner is cut off. Then it is clamped in a vice to cut one shelf evenly with a grinder.
	This is how this platform will be welded to the frame.
	After welding, the seam is thoroughly cleaned.
	Knives and other cutting tools will be fixed to this area with a pressure plate. And for this you need to prepare two holes with M8 threads. It is advisable to space them wider so that you can, for example, clamp planer knives and other similar cutting parts between them. First, holes are drilled with a small diameter drill - 3 or 4 mm.
	Then - with a drill for M8 thread, that is, with a diameter of 6.7 mm.
	After this, the thread is cut with a tap.
	The next operation is the manufacture of the pressure plate. For it, it is better to take thick, 3÷4 mm, stainless steel. It is less susceptible to deformation than conventional carbon steel. The size of the plate must correspond to the dimensions support platform.
	The edge that will face the cutting edge of the tool is ground beveled to prevent it from being touched by the abrasive during sharpening. Next, two holes are drilled on the plate for M8 screws - strictly aligned along the axes with the threaded holes in the support pad. These screw holes can be modified to be countersunk.
	The frame is completely ready, and after cleaning and degreasing it can be coated with paint from an aerosol can. While the paint dries, you can work on other components and parts of the machine.
	A steel rod with a diameter of 8 mm will be used for the stand and working rod of the machine. First you need to clean it thoroughly - polish it sandpaper. The master suggested this option - with clamping the rod into the drill chuck and holding the paper in your hand. Let's be honest - it's not a completely safe way.
	Rod after polishing. It is divided into two sections - one 450÷500 mm long, the second 250÷300 mm.
	An M8 thread is cut from one end of each rod. On a short rod there is a threaded section approximately 20 mm long - this is for screwing into the welded nut of the frame.
	On a long rod there is a thread 40÷50 mm long. It is necessary for screwing the handle.
	The next step is to make clamps that will hold the abrasive bar on the rod. They are made from extended M10 nuts. First, you need to use a core to mark the center of the through hole, with a distance of 12 mm from the edge.
	Then, very carefully, strictly perpendicular to the axis of the nut, a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm is drilled.
	You need to cut a quarter off the other edge of the nut. This is done with a hacksaw for metal in two steps. First, a transverse cut is made to the center...
	...and then - longitudinal. You need to prepare two of these nuts.
	Short M10 locking bolts are screwed into the nuts - and the clamps are ready. This is what they will look like.
	After this, the clamps are put on the bar. Between them, a sharpening stone is placed in the cut-out quarters, and this entire assembly is secured with clamping bolts. That's it, the rod is assembled, you can move on to the next unit of the machine.
	There should be a unit on the rack that provides top point rod supports. In this case, the translational movement of the rod back and forth, and a degree of freedom left and right, should be ensured. In a word, this is a kind of hinge, the height of which on the stand will precisely set the sharpening angle of the cutting edge. This unit will again be manufactured on the basis of an extended M10 nut. To begin with, a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm is drilled in it - exactly the same as on the nuts that were used for the clamps.
	Then comes a rather complicated operation. It is necessary to first drill a hole with a diameter of 6.7 mm through the head of the M10 bolt, and then cut an M8 thread in it. The bolt itself will be screwed into the nut, and the ring from the anchor will be screwed into the hole. This ring will act as a hinge.
	This is what the unit looks like assembled. From the side of the through hole, an M10 bolt is screwed into the nut, with the help of which the unit will be fixed to the vertical stand.
	It must be said that such a hinge in the “light version” is not the most successful, and is justified only by the availability of parts. But the working rod has quite a significant backlash, which can affect the accuracy of maintaining a single sharpening angle along the entire cutting edge of the knife. A more perfect solution would be to use a ready-made fish-eye joint - such parts are available in a large assortment in online stores, and their cost is not so high. It is probably quite possible to do without the complicated operation of drilling a hole in the head of the bolt and then cutting the thread - if you are lucky enough to purchase a hinge with a suitable threaded part. Then for the connection it will be possible to get by with a short hairpin. But for now we are considering it as the master suggested.
	All parts are ready - you can proceed to assembling the machine.
	Support legs are screwed to the bottom of the frame. Their height is immediately adjusted so that the machine stands stable - on all four points.
	The vertical stand is screwed in.
	A hinge assembly is placed on the stand and secured at a certain height with a clamping bolt.
	A pressure plate is placed on the support platform. Two screws are attached that will secure the cutting tool in this clamp.
	All that remains is to thread the free end of the working rod into the hinge ring - and we can assume that the machine is ready.
	The master decided to immediately try it at work. To begin with, sharpen this knife with a completely “dead” cutting edge.
	The knife is placed between the support platform and the pressure plate. The cutting edge is approximately parallel to the short side of the bed. Fixation is carried out by tightening two screws.
	The working rod is inserted into the hinge. The hinge itself is adjusted in height to ensure the required sharpening angle. The sharpening process begins - first with the first, large block. As you work, you can observe how a uniform cutting edge is formed along the entire length of the blade.
	Then the block can be replaced with another one, with a fine abrasive, to bring the sharpening to the maximum sharpness of the cutting edge.
	The result of the work is first visual...
	...and now with a demonstration of the degree of sharpening of the cutting edge. A loose sheet of paper can be easily cut into strips.
	By changing the height of the hinge unit, you can sharpen the plane iron in the same way...
	...or even an ax blade. If it is temporarily not needed, the machine itself can be easily disassembled by removing the bar and unscrewing the stand. In this form, it will take up very little space in the closet or on the shelf.

It makes sense to add a few more touches.

Many factory-made models are equipped with a scale on which the required sharpening angle of the cutting edge is set. It’s not difficult to come up with a similar device yourself, for example, like the one shown in the illustration. A plate perpendicular to the plane of the supporting platform, and a removable ruler with a protractor screwed to it.

After clamping the knife in the clamp, it is enough to apply a ruler to the cutting edge and to the hinge point, align the central mark of the protractor with the platinum, and take the angle readings using the same platinum, counting it from 90 degrees.

Important - the full sharpening angle is made up of the angles on both sides of the blade. That is, if an angle of 30 is required°, then sharpening on one side should be carried out at an angle of 15°.

They do it differently - instead of a protractor, you can fix a sector on which signed marks have been made in advance, for example, “ kitchen knife", "table knife", "chisel", " ", etc. That is, it will be enough to select the height of the hinge so that the bar coincides with the applied mark.

Another option is marks on the vertical post. True, in this case, uniformity in the placement of knives in the clamp is required - so that the cutting edge always protrudes at the same distance from the edge. Not quite convenient.

And the simplest option is to make several templates from thick cardboard or thin plywood, labeling them which cutting tool this corner is intended for.

In a word, by being smart, it is not difficult to significantly simplify bringing the machine into the desired working position.

You can also make a note about fastening the bars. If they are supposed to be changed during sharpening, then they must have the same thickness, otherwise the angle will change. Many masters advise other approaches. Instead of bars, they have several steel plates of the same size prepared. Abrasive paper is glued to the plates. The two sides are already two different levels of grain. That is, you can prepare a kit for all stages of sharpening: from rough shaping of the cutting edge to polishing it.

One more interesting idea in this regard - not a plate, but a section of a profile square pipe 20x20 mm. The four sides are four different abrasives. As you work, just turn it over to the right side...

One more nuance: it doesn’t hurt to ensure your safety at work. It will be very unpleasant if, during a forward movement, your hand falls off - and carefully with your fingers along the cutting edge. So some kind of protective guard will not hurt here, which you can come up with to your taste.

A home-made tool sharpening machine will certainly be very useful in any household.

* * * * * * *

We can say that in this article we have only scratched the surface of the topic of homemade machines and devices. We will be glad if readers send their wishes: whichever tool they would like to see in detail - we will try to satisfy their requests. And it’s even better if one of the amateur craftsmen shares their secrets on the pages of our portal. Published reviews from visitors are required to be paid.

We will send the material to you by e-mail

A home workshop is far from uncommon in the yard of any zealous owner. When arranging it, there are some features that must be observed. Our review will help you select and make homemade machines and devices for your home workshop, as well as understand the technology of their manufacture. Each owner can independently select the necessary equipment. And if you know technical features structures, then you can arrange the room yourself.When arranging equipment, it is important to plan for sufficient space. It is better if the workshop is equipped in a separate room.

The quality of work and comfortable working conditions depend on the functional arrangement of a home workshop.

Before selecting a set of homemade machines, it is necessary to create optimal working conditions. In this case, the size of the room must be at least 6 square meters. m. You can attach an additional room to the garage or to the house.It is important to decide what types of work you will carry out, as well as make a list of equipment and necessary tools.

It is most convenient to organize storage of some types of tools on the wall. This will save space. The shelves are also convenient to use.To save useful space, it is worth making universal devices that combine several functions. The table should be equipped with drawers, and also used as a carpentry workbench.

When choosing homemade machines and devices for your home workshop, you can select different types of mini equipment. For working with metals, the following options are used:

grinding equipment used for processing metal surfaces: grinding, polishing and sharpening. Its manufacture requires a minimum number of components and parts. The equipment includes sharpening stones and an electric motor. For the stability of the device, mounting elements are used;

milling machine used for drilling holes. In the manufacture of such a lifting mechanism design, a steering rack is used. In addition, you can install an angle milling machine.

For wood processing, various homemade tools and do-it-yourself devices are used. The most commonly used types are cutting, turning and grinding. With their help, you can perform all types of work at home. The following equipment is used for wood processing:

cutting machines. The simplest device is electrical or. Such units can be disk, belt, or chainsaw sawmills. During production homemade equipment It is worth considering the diameter of the disk, as well as the width of the cutting part;

grinding device. The simplest option is made from a stable table, a vertical grinding shaft and an electric motor. An abrasive belt is used to process the ends of wood blanks.

Related article:

Woodworking machines for the home workshop. Specialized equipment with an electric drive greatly simplifies the processing of wood blanks. But acquiring it involves significant investments. To successfully solve this problem, you should carefully study the materials in this article.

DIY tool shelves: popular designs and manufacturing

It is worth noting the following options for storing tools:

racks;
hanging shelves;
wall structures;
shelves in the form of shields on which small tools can be mounted.

You can make a panel shelf for a tool with your own hands like this:

cut out a shield from plywood and mark the places where the shelves will be installed;
make shelves with side walls, the length of which should correspond to the length of the shield;
the shelves are fixed to the panel using self-tapping screws;
hooks are mounted, which are equipped with a special thread;
The brackets are being installed on the back side of the shield.

For your information! Panel shelves are functional. You can attach hooks or special holders to them. An additional lamp can be hung above such a structure. In this case, you can use a small light bulb.

Designing a carpentry workbench with your own hands: drawings, video

Let's start studying useful devices for the household with your own hands from a workbench. This useful unit comes in the following varieties: stationary, mobile and folding.

Remember that a do-it-yourself folding workbench drawing should contain the following details:

a working surface, to create which you will need a board at least 6 cm thick. In this case, hornbeam, beech or oak are used. You can use boards painted with drying oil;

a vice structure is mounted on the top cover;
The supporting legs of the workbench are made of pine and linden. Longitudinal connecting beams are placed between them to ensure stability of the entire structure;
Shelves for tools are mounted under the workbench.

You can watch how to make a simple workbench in this video:

Technology and drawings of a do-it-yourself carpentry workbench: simple design

To make such a device, you will need drawings with the dimensions of the carpentry workbench.

In this photo you can see how the folding structure is made

Let's look at how to build such a device:

To make the lid you will need thick boards. The dimensions of the shield should be 0.7 * 2 meters. Long nails are used for fastening;
The roof is finished using;
depending on the dimensions of the carpentry workbench, vertical supports are used;
The height of the working surface of do-it-yourself carpentry workshop tools is determined. Markings for the beams are applied on the ground where these elements are buried;
The workbench cover is being installed. The support bars are attached in pairs. In this case, long ones are used.

Features of creating and designing a wooden workbench with your own hands

You can buy a wooden workbench or make one yourself. Additionally, the structure can be equipped with drawers. So, let's look at the manufacturing technology:

vertical supports are fixed using horizontal jumpers. They make grooves for connecting fittings. In this case, a chisel and a hammer can be used;
When the jumpers are installed at the required level, holes are made in the bars on the support. Then the bolt is mounted, after which the elements are tightened;
horizontal jumpers are installed two pieces on each side. Parts under the countertop will be required for installation above the work surface;
bolts are used to secure the work surface. Holes for fastening elements are drilled on the tabletop. The bolts are mounted so that the bolts are recessed.

You can easily do it at home. In this case, you will need an emery cloth and a sanding belt. Its sticker is applied end-to-end. To strengthen the seam, it is necessary to place dense material under the bottom. In this case, you should not use low-quality glue.

The diameter of the tape shaft should be several mm wider in the center than at the edge. To prevent the tape from slipping, it is necessary to wind it with thin rubber.For the manufacture of grinding devices, you can select designs such as planetary, cylindrical grinding and surface grinding.

Technology for making a carpenter's vice for a workbench with your own hands

For workbenches, you often make a vice with your own hands at home. The video allows you to see this process:

To make such a design you will need special studs.To work, you will need a screw pin with a thread. You also need to prepare a couple of boards. One element will be fixed, and the second will move. When manufacturing, it is necessary to use drawings of a vice with your own hands. In each of the boards it is necessary to make holes for pins, which are connected with nails. Then screws and nuts with washers are inserted into them. When constructing a homemade vice with your own hands, you should use instructions and ready-made diagrams.

Useful information! If you make the pins movable, you can make workpieces of various sizes.

Making a metal bench with your own hands: drawings

If you often work with metals, the best solution would be to create a metal workbench with your own hands. Wood material is not suitable for such purposes, since it will often be damaged when processing metal products.

It is worth noting the following elements of such a device:

horizontal jumpers are used to ensure longitudinal rigidity;
Small rack beams are made from profiled pipes. They are used to assemble the frame part of pipes. In the corner zone there are welded spacers, which are made of steel strips;
for rack beams, profile pipes with a wall thickness of 3-4 mm are used;
corner No. 50 is necessary for the racks on which the tools are mounted.

To create high-quality seams, it is necessary to use a carbon dioxide semi-automatic machine, as well as welding machine pulse type.

Assembly of a universal device begins with the frame. To do this, long and short beams are welded. To prevent them from twisting together, follow these steps:

After this, the rear beam and vertical posts are mounted. It is important to check how evenly they are located in relation to each other. If there are any deviations, they can be bent using a hammer. When the frame is ready, special corners are attached to it to strengthen the structure. The tabletop is made from wooden planks, which are impregnated with fire-resistant liquid. A steel sheet is placed on top.A shield made of . The same material is used for lining the cabinet.

Table 1. Making a metal bench with your own hands

Image	Installation stages
	A carbon dioxide semi-automatic machine is used for welding the structure.
	Creating a structure frame. For welding, all parts must be laid out on a flat surface. At first, the joining joints are simply tacked together, and then all the seams are welded. The rear pillars and beam are welded to the frame.
	After welding all the stiffening elements, the following frame is obtained.
	Then a reinforcing angle is attached to the frame to secure the table top. Before installation, the boards must be treated with a special fire-resistant compound. A sheet of metal is attached to the top.
	The side walls are finished with plywood panels, and the right cabinet houses wooden boxes. To protect the base, the surfaces are coated with various paints and varnishes. First, the primer is distributed, and then a special enamel is used.

Do-it-yourself knife sharpening device: drawings and nuances

To make a sharpener from an engine with your own hands, you can take parts from old Soviet devices. To build a sharpening machine you will need the following parts:

tube for turning flanges;
grindstone;
special nuts;
steel elements for the design of protective casings;
cable cord;
launching device;
a block of wood or a metal corner.

The flange section must match the dimensions of the bushing. A sharpening stone will also be placed on this element. This part will also have a special thread. In this case, the flange is pressed onto the motor shaft. Fastening is carried out by welding or bolting.

The working winding is fixed to the cable. Moreover, it has a resistance of 12 ohms, which can be calculated using a multimeter. A frame is also made, for which a metal corner is taken.

How to sharpen a drill for metal: do-it-yourself device

You can make a simple machine drill sharpening and for metal from ordinary devices. An abrasive block is suitable for this.

At home you can use the following equipment:

You can use an electric sharpener to sharpen the drill. In this case, sharpening is performed from the edge. When using a sharpener, you need to pay attention to the sharpening angle and the fixation of the drill on the axis of rotation. Excess metal should be removed gradually. Finally, the edges are shaped into a cone;
A grinder is used as a do-it-yourself sharpening machine. For sharpening, the cutting tool is secured in a vice. To do this, the mounting angle is selected, and the disk is mounted.

It is worth considering that the grinder is mounted on a flat surface. In this case, the disk should be located downwards. If the grinding device is not secured securely, it can damage the drill. Sharpening with a grinder can only be done for products with a small diameter. It is not possible to finish using a grinding device. The edge of the shield is used to support the cutting tool.

You can also use a drill attachment, which is worth equipping grinding disc with sandpaper. To grind elements with a drill, you need to find two flat surfaces.

Drilling machine for home workshop

You can make a device drilling machine from a drill with your own hands. The drawings will help you understand the design. For such a design you will need the following elements:

base or frame;
rotation device;
mechanism for ensuring supply;
stand for fastening the door.

Here are the main steps in making a homemade drilling machine with your own hands:

To make a drilling machine you will need a rotary tool feed mechanism. The design uses springs and a lever. There are various tools for sharpening drills.

Assembling a drilling machine with your own hands: drawings with dimensions

The design will also require the manufacture of a homemade vice for a drilling machine. The simplest device can be assembled from a drill, without a steering rack. To minimize vibration processes, it is necessary to build a more massive table. The stand and table are connected at right angles. In this case, the drill can be attached using clamps. A vice is mounted on the table surface.

Designing a press for a garage with your own hands

The design is intended for straightening, pressing, bending of sheet materials and for compression. Devices for plumbing work are characterized by a compact and simple design. The forces from such a press can vary between 5-100 tons. For garage work, 10-20 tons is quite enough.To make a similar design, a manual drive is used. Hydraulic device contains two chambers with pistons.

Do-it-yourself press from a jack drawings

You can see how to make a simple device on a special video of a press made from a jack with your own hands:

A simple option is a hydraulic one, which can be constructed from a bottle jack.An important element is the frame, inside of which the jack is placed. The platform is used as a reliable base. The upper surface is used to support the elements being processed. The table should move freely up and down on the frame.In this case, rigid springs are attached to the base on one side, and to the working surface on the other.

Here simple circuit builds:

the necessary elements are cut out according to the drawings;
The base is mounted by welding. At the same time steel structure should resemble the letter P;
a mobile table is made from a pipe and channel;
Finally, the springs are fixed.

Do-it-yourself metal cutting disc machine technology

They will help you make the design of a metal cutting machine with your own hands - drawings. Disc cutting machines are made from a special frame or platform. The machine is equipped with elements that provide strong fixation. A steel disc is used as cutting parts. To cut metal, a wheel coated with an abrasive material is used.

The cutting parts are driven by an electric motor. Disc machines equipped with pendulum, front and bottom components.

You can also watch in the video below how to do it cutting machine from a grinder with your own hands:

The machine works like this:

protective covers are made on which the drive belt is mounted;
the engine is attached;
a shaft is made on which the drive pulley and cutting disc are fixed;
a movable upper part of the structure is installed in the pendulum element;
a shaft is mounted to fix the pendulum;
a frame is made for mounting the machine;
the pendulum is fixed to the frame;

Each master strives to equip his area as much as possible, to saturate the workspace with machine tools and devices. Great benefit To run a private household, they bring homemade machines and equipment for the home workshop.

Among the homemade household crafts and equipment are:

joinery;
workbench;
stool;
shelves;
racks.

Workbench

Workbench dimensions

The height of the tabletop surface must be such that a worker can operate tools and equipment while standing. The workshop owner determines the height of the workbench himself - according to his height. The height of the desktop ranges from 75 cm to 80 cm.

The size of the tabletop is determined by the area utility room. The table should not impede free passage around it.

Workbench material

Tree
Often used wooden table. The workbench is made of timber and boards. The legs of the table are secured with diagonal crossbars for reliability.

The table top is made in the form of a shield from knocked down boards using pieces of timber. The shield is rested on the legs of the table and fastened with nails or screws. The connection parts are made from angle steel.

The options for assembling a wooden workbench are different, but they have one thing in common - the table structure must be stable and withstand static and dynamic loads.

If the surface of the workbench will be subject to accidental impact from cutting and sharp tools, then the tabletop is covered with tin or a metal sheet is placed on top.

Metal
The most reliable workbench design is a workbench welded from a metal profile. Manufacturing a welded product requires having a welding machine and experience working with it.

The supporting frame and table legs are welded from steel angle and strip. For auxiliary parts, pieces of reinforcement are used.

The table top is made of metal sheet, 8 - 12 mm thick. A thick sheet will significantly increase the weight of the workbench, which will make it difficult to move.

Stool

Making a stool with your own hands is quite simple:

4 supports, 50 cm long, are made from timber 40 x 40 mm.
The legs in the middle of the length are fastened with crossbars.
Grooves are made in the supports using a chisel.
At the ends cross bars Using a chisel, cut out the protrusions to fit the grooves.
The protrusions are lubricated with wood glue and inserted into the grooves.
While the glue dries, the supports are tightened with a belt.
The seat is cut out with a circular saw from a wide board 30 mm thick.
A seat measuring 300 x 300 mm is nailed or screwed to the legs of the stool.

Shelves

Shelves are made from boards, chipboard or MDF. They can be open or with side walls. For fastening, furniture hinges are used.

Holes are drilled in the wall into which dowels are driven. The screws are not screwed into the dowels completely so that the hinges of the shelf can be placed on them.

The hinges are screwed to the back of the shelf. The shelves are hung on the wall by placing the hinges on the heads of the screws.

Shelving

Racks are a whole complex of shelves of different sizes. They are good to make from chipboard. The lattice structure is supported on a pedestal or simply placed on the floor. For stability of the rack, corners are screwed to the sides of the furniture. Free shelves of corners with holes are nailed to the wall with dowels.

Vertical tool holders

Every craftsman strives to organize his workplace so that the tools are at arm's length. This is facilitated by vertical holders.

Wrench holder

A wooden plank is attached to the wall above the workbench. The rail is screwed with screws into dowels installed in advance.
Small nails are driven into the bar at intervals equal to the width of the wrench handles.
The keys are hung on the rail.
The nail heads hold the keys in a horizontal and vertical plane.

Screwdriver holder

In a piece of timber 40 x 40 mm, holes are drilled corresponding to the diameters of screwdrivers, at a distance of 30 - 40 mm from each other.
A piece of timber is nailed to the wall with dowels so that the holes are located vertically.
Screwdrivers are inserted into the resulting sockets. Now you can quickly get the tool you need without leaving your workplace.

Chisel belt

The plank is secured to the wall with dowels.
The belt or belt is nailed to the bar so that unique through pockets are obtained.
Chisels are lowered into the pockets, through which only steel blades pass. The handles are held in place by a belt.

The device can hold hammers, pliers, pliers and other tools.

Homemade soldering iron stand

When working with a soldering iron, a situation arises when you need to put the tool down. Placing a soldering iron with a hot tip on a tabletop or on any object is always risky. A homemade stand will solve this problem.

An example of making a stand for a soldering iron

The holder is made of wire in the form of a spiral. To do this, unbend a wire clothes hanger.
The wire is wound around a cylindrical object with a diameter of 1.5 - 2 cm. The handle of a chisel or other tool will do.
On one side of the spring there is a free end of the wire.
The end is bent into a loop with pliers.
For the base of the stand, take a board 200 x 100 x 20 mm.
A through hole ø 4 mm is drilled at the base.
A hole is drilled from the back of the board with a large drill for a countersunk screw head.
The screw is threaded from bottom to top.
Place the spring loop on the screw and tighten the nut.
Circles are cut into the board using a crown to fit the size of a cup for candles or similar products.
Using a chisel, make a sample of wood in 3 recesses.
Cups are inserted into the openings, which are filled with solder, tin and a napkin to clean the tip.
The soldering iron is inserted into the spring.
A small hole is made in the board for attaching a flexible steel cord from a lamp.
A clamp is attached to the end of the cord, which is used to secure various parts for soldering.

The design may have a different look - it all depends on the imagination and ingenuity of the author.

The simplest mousetrap in the world

This name can be assigned to many homemade mousetraps invented by craftsmen. They have one thing in common - humane treatment of animals caught in a trap. The device does not kill the animal, but isolates it. A few examples of how to make a simple mousetrap:

Plastic funnel

Cut plastic 3 liter cylinder in half. The cut neck is turned over and inserted into the bottom of the bottle. Bait (seeds, grain, etc.) is poured onto the bottom.

The trap is placed close to an object that the mouse could climb. A rodent, having fallen into a funnel, can no longer get out of the bottle.

Console

The design is a tilting platform. It is made from a piece of cardboard or plastic. The bar is placed on a plane so that half of it hangs in the air.

The bait is placed on the edge of the console so that the bar is on the verge of balance. The animal, having reached the bait, overturns the bar and falls along with it into the substituted bucket.

Suspension

An empty plastic bottle with bait at the bottom is placed on the edge of the table. A cord is attached to the neck by piercing the plastic with a hook made of paper clip. The other end of the cord is tied to some support.

The mouse, attracted by the smell of food, enters the container. The bottle tips over under the weight of the rodent and hangs on the cord.

Mini vise made of metal loop

When performing small operations, small parts often need to be clamped. To do this, use a mini vice made from a one-piece door hinge.

Matching holes are drilled in both hinge flaps.

A bolt of suitable diameter is threaded through them. On the other side, a wing nut is screwed onto the bolt thread. The parts are inserted into the opening between the doors and clamped by tightening the nut. The device can be used as a clamp.

Portable beer box

A box for drinks in glass containers is a convenient device for carrying several bottles at once at the cottage or on a picnic. To make such a box with your own hands, you will need the following tools and materials:

Tools

jigsaw;
wood saw;
sander;
drill-driver;
drills;
hammer;
chisel;
feather drill.

Materials

edged board – 1050 x 170 x 15 mm;
fruit box slats - 5 pcs.;
handle ø 36 mm and length 350 mm;
stain;
screws;
nails.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling the box

The edged board is sawn into three identical parts (bottom and two sides), each 350 mm long.
Two boards are cut with a jigsaw so that the sides taper from the middle and end in an oval top.
The tops of the sidewalls are drilled feather drill holes ø 36 mm.
All wooden parts are cleaned with a grinder and an emery wheel. The cuttings are sanded manually with emery.
Using a thin drill, drill 4 holes along the edges of the bottom. The nests of holes are countersinked from below.
The sidewalls are installed on the sides of the bottom. Screws are screwed into the bottom of the bottom. The heads of the screws are “hidden” in the sockets of the holes.
Two strips are nailed to the sides with nails on each side of the box. They will become a vertical fence for bottles.
Cuts are made in three planks so that by folding them, you get a sheathing with square openings for glass containers.
The sheathing is laid on the bottom between the sidewalls.
The nails are nailed in those places where the ends of the sheathing rest against the sidewalls and fencing strips.
A ø 36 mm handle is inserted into the holes in the tops of the sidewalls.
Driving the nails in at an angle, fasten the sides to the handle.
The entire surface of the box is treated with stain.

The box is ready for use. The portable container can easily accommodate 6 bottles of beer or other drink. The crate's lathing and guards will prevent bottles from breaking or falling out while being carried.

Hammer upgrade

A common occurrence is loss wooden handle from the hammer socket. One of the ways to create a reliable handle fastening is to make a cut in the upper end of the handle. The holder is inserted into the hammer socket. The cut is filled with Moment glue. A wooden wedge is driven into the groove.

In order not to look for nails while working, and especially not to hold them with your teeth, a round magnet is glued into the bottom of the hammer handle. Magnetic nails will always be at hand for the worker.
It is dangerous for the hammer to accidentally fall out of your hand at height. To prevent this from happening, a hole is drilled in the handle through which the cord is threaded. The worker's belt is threaded through the loop.

Homemade tools and machines

Pipe bender

Bending device metal pipes It is a metal rod welded to the frame. I make the rod from a piece of reinforcement. The pipe is placed on a pin, and on the other side a long piece of reinforcement is inserted into the pipe. By pressing the lever, the pipe is bent at the desired angle. The device is suitable for small sections of round pipes.

Device for bending profiled pipes

Greenhouse owners know how important it is to have a device for bending long lengths of profile pipe. The curved profile is used as an arched structure for the formation of polyethylene coverings for greenhouses.

Pipe bender allows you to save considerable cash on the construction of a greenhouse. The design consists of 3 rollers - two are guides, and the third roller performs the leading function.

The profile pipe is inserted into the opening between the two wheels and the roller. The roller has a stop and a rotating device in the form of a lever or an electric motor drive.

Making a pipe bender with your own hands

Two axles are welded to a metal frame from pieces of smooth reinforcement, onto which old car hubs are placed.
Protruding chamfers are removed from the hubs so that the side surfaces of the rollers are smooth.
The channel is placed in the opening between the hubs with the shelves facing up.
The same profile, smaller in width, with the flanges down, is placed into the channel.
An axle is welded to the top of the inner profile, onto which the third hub is placed.
A vertical shelf made of steel sheet is welded to the frame.
A hole is cut in the vertical bar and the bearing is pressed into it.
A nut is secured to the middle channel by welding.
One end of the screw rod is screwed into the nut.
The screw shank is threaded through a bearing in a vertical bar.
A rotary handle is welded to the shank on the back side of the bar.
A swing arm is welded to the axis of the drive hub.

The machine is ready for use. A profile pipe is inserted between the rollers and clamped with a screw. The rotary lever drives the rollers, which pull the pipe, bending it. The bending radius is set using the rotary handle of the screw.

A pipe bender made from car hubs is one of the device options. There are many designs of bending devices. In some models, the drive roller is coaxially connected to the motor shaft.

Impact screwdriver from starter

There are situations when it is impossible to unscrew a rusted bolt or screw with a conventional tool. An impact screwdriver does this job perfectly. The tool is made by hand from parts of a car starter:

The shaft and bushing are removed from the starter housing.
Part of the shaft is cut off, leaving a splined rod.
A piece of pipe of suitable size is placed on the sleeve.
A piece of bolt of equal diameter is welded to the end of the pipe.
The end of the shaft is ground into a tetrahedron shape, onto which heads of the required size are placed. For screws, a bit is inserted into the head.

When you hit the head of the bolt with a hammer, the shaft slides with beveled splines inside the sleeve, performing a rotational movement. How hit harder, the more force the shaft rotates.

Homemade circular saw machine

A do-it-yourself cutting machine made from an angle grinder is not inferior to some factory-made samples. The grinder is a fairly powerful hand circular saw.

The grinder-based machine performs precise cuts of lumber and metal profiles. To make it you will need the power tool itself, a welding machine and a metal profile.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling the machine

Two metal strips are welded to the pipe section, in which mounting holes are drilled.
Accordingly, two holes are also made in the casing of the angle grinder.
The strips are bolted to the casing.
The machine bed is made from a metal sheet with support corners welded to the bottom.
A vertical section of a corner is attached to the frame by welding, in which a hole is drilled.
A piece of angle is welded to the lower end of the lever and drilled through along with the pipe.
The bolt is threaded through the holes and the hinge connection of the vertical post with the lever is tightened with a nut. Additionally, install a lock nut.
IN vertical position The angle grinder lever takes a stable position.
A cut is made at the point where the saw blade comes into contact with the frame so that the blade can completely cut the workpiece.
The handle of the power tool is moved to the end of the lever.
As additional accessories, a transverse and angular stop are installed on the frame.

If necessary, remove the power tool from the machine and use a circular saw in manual mode.

Homemade bow saw

Bow saw handy tool for sawing tree trunks and lumber. The design of the saw is simple; making a hand tool with your own hands is not difficult. To do this you need to prepare tools and materials:

Tools

drill;
hacksaw;
chisel;
hammer;

Materials

cord;
wooden slats 20 x 40 mm;
cotter pins – 2 pcs.;
stalk ø 10 mm;
saw blade;
stain;
wood varnish.

Step-by-step instructions for making a bow saw

The lath is cut into three parts (two vertical side strips and a middle horizontal strip).
Grooves are made in the side handles using a chisel.
At the ends of the centerpiece, protrusions for grooves are cut out with a chisel.
The centerpiece is connected to the side handles.
Through holes are drilled at the joints. Wooden cotter pins are driven into them.
Cotter pins form hinge joints. This is necessary for the mobility of the lower ends of the side slats when the canvas is tensioned.
Cuts are made at the lower ends of the sidewalls - parallel to the middle.
Short bolts are inserted into the holes of the saw blade and tightened with nuts.
The blade is inserted into the cuts so that the bolts are on the outside of the structure.
Circular grooves are cut out at the upper ends of the handles.
Loops are made at the ends of the double cord, which are placed on the grooves.
A handle is inserted between the strings of the cord, the long end of which rests on the mullion.
The saw string is twisted using a handle, achieving the desired degree of tension on the saw blade.
The wood is covered with stain and two layers of varnish.
After the varnish has dried, the saw is ready for use.

Conclusion

Homemade devices, tools and machines not only bring significant benefits to the garden, garage and household, but also significantly save the family budget. When making and using homemade products, one must not forget about safety rules.

We will send the material to you by e-mail

For rational use of space, communications and do-it-yourself garage accessories from scrap materials are used. It is necessary to involve walls, an underground level in the process, place it indoors, and organize normal lighting.

Homemade gadgets for the garage

For comfortable operation of a room intended for car storage, you should adhere to certain recommendations:

Depending on the dimensions of the building, the area occupied by equipment, fixtures, and communications should not be more than 10–20% of the size of the garage floor.

Storage areas, racks, workbenches

In 80% of cases, do-it-yourself garage fixtures are built to store accessories, tools, and vehicle equipment. It should be taken into account that the most bulky parts of the car are sets of winter/summer tires, depending on the season.

The main nuances of these designs are:

The width of the pit should allow the driver to enter it without lighting.

Lighting and ventilation

In garages, parallel circuits of lighting fixtures are more often used. One lamp allows you to use a specific area, several devices are turned on during a major renovation or a visit to the cellar. Minimum power consumption is ensured. Daylighting devices have a great resource.

Cars use toxic, harmful fuels and lubricants, so do-it-yourself garage ventilation devices that allow you to create air exchange are becoming relevant. The influx is organized from below:

garage - vents in the masonry, protected by bars;
cellar - pipe from the garage or from the street.

The hood is mounted under the ceiling of the cellar, the roof of the garage, or has the form of vents in the main walls at the highest points.

Related article:

Other useful ideas

Useful accessories for a garage with your own hands can be made from used dishes, equipment, and materials left over from construction. For example, by gluing the lids of plastic cans horizontally/vertically, the owner receives convenient transparent containers for equipment or hardware, which are always at hand.

Homemade machines

You can also assemble accessories for the garage from power tools:

drilling - a drill fixed with clamps in a device that moves with a gear along a rack;

cutting - an angle grinder clamped in a similar way with equipment for metal or wood;

The advantage of the machines is more accurate positioning of the equipment relative to the workpiece. The equipment turns out to be dismountable, the drill and angle grinder can be removed and used for their intended purpose.

Related article:

Hydropress

The simplest design is obtained from a car hydraulic jack. To press out/press in bearings and press/compress parts, you will need to build a frame and a removable movable stop. The frame consists of 4 channels welded to each other. At the top, the structure is reinforced with stiffening ribs (kerchiefs), and at the bottom, transverse corners are added, giving the frame stability.

The stop is pulled in the normal position to the top crossbar of the frame by powerful springs. A hydraulic jack is installed between them, pressing the stop against the lower crossbar of the frame as necessary. The press force is regulated by a jack, the dimensions of the working area are selected depending on the size of the workpieces.

And finally, a few more examples of useful things for the garage.

It's nice to see when a person made everything and other household items with his own hands. To simplify the process of cutting metal or sawing elements from wood, they build homemade machines and devices for the home workshop. This solution saves not only time on manufacturing products, but also money on purchasing ready-made ones. Several practical and interesting options Let's look at it below.

DIY pipe bending machine

Read in the article

How to use homemade machines and tools for your home workshop

The use of homemade machines and devices for the home workshop is aimed at solving several problems:

Simplifying the metal processing process. When creating household items, a metal cutter or press is often required.
Improving wood processing. Even to build a small shed or make a wooden one, others are needed.

Buying a ready-made tool is quite expensive, so the use of homemade machines and devices for the garage is becoming more and more relevant every day. Among the most common options for home tools are:

carpentry workbench;
device for quickly sharpening knives;
device for sharpening metal drills;
drilling machines;
press;
cutting disc machines.

Here are a few photos of do-it-yourself tools and devices from “homemade” people:

1 of 4

Practical DIY tool shelves

Before creating devices and with your own hands, determine the storage location of all devices, so that later you do not have to search throughout the workshop or where everything is. It’s not difficult to make a shelf for tools with your own hands, the main thing is to decide on its dimensions and material of manufacture.

The easiest way to make shelves is to assemble them from wood. Do not forget about the need to coat the finished structure with a protective varnish or to prevent rotting and swelling of the wood.

You can create combined option made of metal support and wooden shelves. Here detailed instructions to create such a homemade model:

Image	Sequence of actions
	Assembling the frame. To do this, prepare two side frames consisting of 4 corners. Connect the elements using . Then, tighten the 2 frames together using 4 corners.
	When the frame is completely assembled, proceed to making the shelves. They can be made from wood or metal, as well as from other dense materials at hand. It is enough to cut the canvases of a suitable size and attach them to a metal base.
	If desired, you can make the rack movable by attaching four small wheels. Or install it firmly in a designated space in the garage.

You can find other interesting projects and drawings for making tool shelves. Watch the video on the topic:

And also make useful household gadgets with your own hands:

1 of 4

We make a carpentry workbench with our own hands according to the drawings: video instructions and photo examples

Among the common do-it-yourself devices is a workbench. Durable and dimensional, allowing you to securely fasten the workpiece, useful for high-quality cutting of wood and creating various elements from it.

The device package includes:

Working surface. Hard is used for it to increase the service life of the device. The thickness must be at least 6 cm.
Supports. Assembled from wooden beams or metal plates. The main task is to ensure the stability of the entire mechanism.
Vise for securing the product. If the table is long, you can install two vices at once.
Tool box. A useful recess or pull-out design that provides quick access to needed small parts.

To assemble a carpentry workbench for your workshop yourself, you should choose a drawing and purchase materials for the work.

DIY carpentry workbench drawings

Before purchasing materials to assemble your own workbench, you should think about a detailed drawing. It should include the dimensions of the machine itself; it is advisable to note the dimensions of the materials used and their quantity.

For example, a finished drawing of a folding workbench with your own hands may look like this:

Whatever model you choose to create, take into account several features of the desktop that ensure ease of cutting wood:

height and length of the master’s arms: the height and width of the tabletop depend on these parameters;
which hand is working: place the vice on the right or left;
what blanks will be made: choosing the shape of the table;
how much space in the room do you allocate for the workbench?

Taking into account all these parameters, it will be easier for you to decide on the drawings of the carpentry workbench and the dimensions of the machine. Here are a few interesting examples:

Instructions for assembling a wooden workbench with your own hands

You can buy a wooden workbench in a store or through online catalogs, but it’s cheaper to make it yourself. Let's take as a basis a simple option with typical tabletop dimensions: length - 150-200 cm, width 70-120 cm.

The manufacturing work will include several stages:

Image	What to do
	Make the top cover from thick ones to make a shield with a width of 70 to 200 cm. Fasten the elements with long nails, and you need to drive them in from the outside and carefully bend them from the inside. The working surface of the workbench is made only of wood or.
	Sheathe the lid along the lower perimeter with a 5 by 5 cm beam. This will make it more convenient to attach the vertical supports. The location of the supports depends on the size of the tabletop. It is better to make them from thick rectangular timber minimum 120 by 120 mm.
	The carpentry workbench must be installed correctly. Be sure to secure it firmly. If it will be mounted outdoors under a canopy, dig holes for supports. Indoors, use other fastening methods.

When the structure is assembled, install a vice on it. To fully understand how to assemble a carpentry workbench with your own hands, watch the video:

Making a carpenter's vice for a workbench with your own hands

Professional “homemade workers” assemble not only tables for work, but also vices with their own hands according to drawings. Any design of such a clamp will include several elements:

Supports, where each one has a sponge for clamping.
Moving jaw.
Metal guides. The sponge moves over them.
Lead screw for moving elements.
Collar. Necessary for rotating the screw.

When making a homemade vice with your own hands, you can use various available materials. For example, there is a design option made from a profile pipe. To do this, prepare several pieces of pipe different sizes, steel stud with coarse thread and double nuts.

Instructions for creating a bench vise from a profile pipe:

Image	What to do
	The largest pipe acts as a body. Supports are soldered to it from below. A 3-4 mm steel flange is put on the back side. A hole is drilled in the center for the running nut, and opposite the front support is the rear jaw.
	There is a front steel flange on the internal moving part. A stud is mounted in it, with lock nuts attached to it. Thrust washers are placed on both sides of the flange. The last element is a movable tube attached to the front jaw.

And also watch the video “do-it-yourself vice at home”:

DIY metal workbench drawings

A metal workbench does not differ much from a carpenter's workbench. The base is hard metal, not wooden frame. A vice is attached to it, and the entire workbench is designed to withstand the force of a sledgehammer.

Do-it-yourself metal workbenches can have one, two or three cabinets, and also not have shelves or drawers for small parts. In terms of strength for working in a garage, you can make a regular table made of metal up to 5 mm thick and a reinforced structure where sheets from 10 to 30 mm are applicable.

Here are some useful plans for making a metal workbench for your workshop:

How to make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands: drawings and photo examples

No home is complete without a knife in the kitchen. It is quite difficult to make the correct one without special devices: it is necessary to maintain the desired angle and achieve the ideal sharpness of the blade.

For each knife, a certain sharpening angle must be observed:

A razor and scalpel require an angle of 10-15⁰.
Knife for cutting bakery products – 15-20⁰.
Classic multifunctional knives – 25-30⁰.
For hunting and hiking, take a device with a blade angle from 25 to 30⁰.
If you want to cut hard materials, then sharpen at an angle of 30-40⁰.

To ensure the desired angle, it is worth buying or making a sharpening device. For example, you can assemble a sharpener with your own hands.

Comment

Tool selection specialist at VseInstruments.ru

Ask a question

“If you don’t use sharpening every day, then 1000 rpm is enough for a high-quality result and a long service life of the device.

To assemble such a machine, you will need a motor from a washing machine with a power of 200 W. Completely for creating a sharpener from an engine from the Progress of work on creating such simple device will be as follows:

Sand the wood blocks with sandpaper, removing any burrs. Make markings depending on the desired angle.

Attach a stone to the drawn line to give the blade a sharp edge. To do this, attach it to the block and mark its width. Then, make cuts on the markings, up to 1.5 cm deep.
Attach abrasive stones to the resulting recesses so that the grooves coincide. Then, install the sharpening stone by screwing it onto the bolts.

There are many ways to make a homemade knife sharpener. Choose the one that suits you and try to create a convenient and useful tool for home.

How to make a device for sharpening a metal drill with your own hands

They make their own not only a sharpener for blades, but also a machine for sharpening drills for metal. Here are a few drawings useful for work:

Ready home machine The simplest and most common version of such equipment for a garage is a converted drill. To work you will need:

base frame;
rotation mechanism;
vertical stand.

For the rack, they usually use either boards. The drill is lightweight, so there is no need to use metal. In this case, the frame must be made massive in order to reduce vibrations during operation of the device.

To correctly connect the bed and vertical stand, as well as assemble all the equipment into one whole machine, pay attention to the video instructions:

DIY drawings with dimensions for a drilling machine

To correctly make any machine or practical device for private use, you should first make a drawing with dimensions. Only then begin preparing materials and assembling the device.

Here are some examples of do-it-yourself drilling machine drawings from a drill:

You can also make a homemade vice for a drilling machine. Below is a video instruction for assembling such a device:

Article