Design, installation and elimination of possible malfunctions of the toilet flush tank. Do-it-yourself toilet button repair: detecting breakdowns and fixing them

Old style cisterns are simple in design. This makes the system quite reliable, but even the most primitive devices break down periodically.

If primitive people could repair hammers, then a modern Internet user has enough skills and knowledge to repair an old mechanism at home.

The design of these products is different water and a design designed using the simplest physical laws. The main components are: a filling device, consisting of a movable lever, on one side of which there is a float, and on the other, a valve that shuts off the water, and.

The most “ancient” toilet flush cisterns of the old style consist of cast iron bell plug with soft rubber gasket. When you press the outer lever, the bell rises and water rushes down through the opened hole.

In later designs the bell was replaced by rubber or plastic bulbs. When the container is empty, the float lowers and the lever opens the valve through which water begins to flow. As the container fills, the lightweight part rises until it reaches a position where water stops flowing into the device.

Possible breakdowns and repair methods

In any mechanism, even the most primitive one, sooner or later various parts begin to fail. Most breakdowns in old-style drainage devices are fairly easy to fix.

Continuous water supply

First of all, you need to check Is the filling valve leaking?. To do this, remove the cover and lift the float lever. If after this water enters the tank, it means that the valve itself is broken and needs to be replaced.

For this turn off the tap in front of the tank and drain the water. Using a wrench, the part connecting the valve to the water supply is unscrewed, the float lever is removed, the fixing nuts are removed, and the valve is pulled out. A new one is installed in its place. The float lever is set to the optimal position after water fills the housing.

If the water flow is completely blocked when the lever is raised, The problem may be caused by the following reasons:

Skewed float lever (rod)– leads to the fact that it begins to cling to the bushing, the float does not float up completely and the valve does not close. In this case, the rod is pulled out and straightened.
If the float seal is broken it remains partially or completely submerged in water and does not close the valve. In this case, it is replaced with a new one. If not suitable model, the damage can be sealed with heated plastic or sealant, after first removing all liquid from the leaking part, but this is a temporary measure.

Constant outflow of water

If it is not empty yet, it means that the tightness of the drain mechanism is broken and water seeps between the body and the bell (pear). There are several reasons that cause this malfunction:

Corroded or dirty seat surface lead to the fact that deposits prevent the drain mechanism from closing tightly. In this case, it is cleaned with emery cloth.
The appearance of a gap between the body and the seat lead to the same problems. In this case, it is necessary to tighten the fastening nuts with a socket wrench.
Sometimes the guide bushing falls out of the seat– this leads to the constipation being skewed when lowering. In this case, the sleeve is inserted into the hole of the arc and wrapped with an elastic band.
The culprit of the breakdown may also be the release lever., which in the wrong position prevents the pear from completely covering the saddle. In this case, you need to bend it and lower it below the inlet of the underwater pipe by 2.5 mm.
Second option - check the fastenings of the rocker arm holding plates and tighten any loose screws. This is quite difficult since the distance between the wall and the screw heads can be less than 10 cm.

You can try to tighten them with a short tool, pushing it into the screw slot. When performing these steps, you must ensure that the vertical plate with four corners is in the recess on the body.

Overflow problems

This is a fairly typical failure that is easy to identify. Water fills the tank and begins to flow out, if you turn off the tap, the flow of water from the device stops, and when you press the overflow socket, the flow stops - the fastening nut has become loose. In some cases, it is enough to turn the overflow several times clockwise and the nut will take its proper place.

Otherwise, you will have to resort to the following tricks. Need to drain the water from the tank, wait until all surfaces are dry.

If the nut does not unscrew completely, it appears between the overflow socket and the bottom of the tank wrap the gap tightly with sealing material and fill silicone glue or paint. Wait until the coating completely hardens.

If the nut is completely unscrewed, the overflow is removed, a sealant is wound onto its threads so that it fits tightly into the hole at the bottom of the tank.

Replacing the supply hose

Damage to the supply hose and gaskets at the junction leads to the appearance of water drops (the problem can be confused with) at the points where it is connected to the body of the drain device. First of all tighten the connecting nut.

If the leak remains, you need to turn off the water and disconnect the hose. The gasket is changed, the threads are covered with winding, the hose is reconnected to the tank and the nut is tightened.

Loud noise when filling

Sometimes, when filling an old type tank drain, it makes a loud noise that can wake up the household. Can replace the part with a special stabilizing device, and thus fix the problem. If the pressure entering the housing is not too strong, the problem can be solved much easier.

The filling valve mechanism includes a short tube for draining water. It needs install the muffler vertically from a flexible plastic or rubber hose, lowering the lower end into the water at the bottom. This will help to avoid noise when water falls and the sound of a jumping float.

Repair cistern it is quite possible to perform a toilet with my own hands. A breakdown causes a fair amount of trouble - this means the inability to sleep to the sound of constantly flowing water, and additional payment for leakage, and a certain risk of flooding the neighbors living below you.

Toilet device

The container is filled with loud noise

Not the worst problem evoking feeling irritation only at night.

A flexible plastic tube called a muffler can be attached to the float valve. It is installed at the inlet of the float valve vertically above the water level. The lower end is immersed in water. Thanks to this, the water flow will begin to enter the container below the existing level and the noise effect will sharply decrease.

The second option is to install a stabilizing float valve into the system. The design of such a valve differs from a conventional one in that it is hollow in design and has a stabilizing chamber at the end. As water flows through the piston, it enters the stabilizing chamber and equalizes the water pressure on both sides of the piston.

To less often encounter problems with toilet cistern repair, systematically carry out preventive inspections and minor repairs. This is a list of works that you can do yourself.

Summing up

We hope our article was useful to you. In order to more accurately understand the technological and practical issue, our website provides detailed photo and video instructions in which you will find useful information on this issue.

A truly comfortable and convenient place to live will be the apartment or house in which the plumbing works well. In the event that there is a need to repair the toilet with your own efforts, you should first of all understand how it works.

Any toilet model includes a bowl (fixed to the floor) and a bowl (located above the bowl). Most often, the need for bathroom repairs arises due to breakdowns inside the cistern.

There are many known problems associated with tank repair. Repair of fittings is considered one of the most difficult and time-consuming. - this is a device with the help of which the tank is refilled with water after draining is completed, automatically controls the volume of water drained, as well as its overflow.

To understand what problem has arisen in the fittings, you need to know what elements does it consist of:

a drain hole located at an angle;
an overflow tube is connected directly to the drain hole;
valve covers with tight rubber;
mechanism required for filling;
drain button mechanism.

Having the following problems with the tank at home, it’s time to think about repairing it or completely replacing it:

(even a small trickle).
The merging process does not occur immediately after pressing the button, but as a result of repeated repetitions.
The process of filling the tank is very noisy.

If individual elements of the cistern fittings become unusable, you can only replace them, but it is important to ensure that all connecting elements fit 100% together. Otherwise, the repair will fail and this will entail complete replacement all fittings.

How to open the lid?

You can repair the flush and other mechanisms of the toilet cistern after disassembling it and removing the lid from it. Let's look at their varieties and learn how to open each of them.

With one button

To open it, you need to do the following:

Using a flathead screwdriver, carefully turn counterclockwise button ring;
when the ring moves easily, you need to completely unscrew it without any tools;
Having pulled out the ring, which resembles a cylinder, move the lid perpendicularly;
in this position Easy to remove double sided clothespin, which holds the button;
now shoot top part and repair fittings;
When the damage is fixed, reassemble the structure in the reverse order.

With two buttons

Complete the following activities:

click on any one half of the button and feel with your finger the side hole in the other;
by inserting a flat-head screwdriver into the found slot, carefully pull the button half and remove it;
remove the other half;
in the resulting hole you can see slotted screw that needs to be unscrewed;
move the lid gradually until it reaches a perpendicular position;
remove the double-sided clothespin;
place the released lid on a flat surface so that it does not break;
after repair work, collect everything, observing reverse steps.

Find out more about one or two and repair their specific breakdowns.

With pull rod

There are models where water is drained not by pressing a button, but by lifting up the rod, which is located in the center of the lid. You can remove the top part of the tank when you push back the small ball located at the end of the rod. After this, the lid will lift off easily.

Built-in toilet cisterns

The design of such tanks is very simple, unlike those listed above. It has only a small drainage device, which is a block. If a wall-mounted tank breaks, only it can break.

You don't have to break down walls to get it out. You just need unscrew the wall button and remove the drainage device through it. After repair, it is easy to return it to its place through the same button hole.

How to disassemble the drain mechanism?

The disassembly scheme for the drain mechanism will not cause much trouble or difficulty if you adhere to some recommendations in this regard:

Remove the reservoir cap.
Look, does the locking mechanism work well?. The float should be no more than half in water, and the water should not be too close to the drain tube.
Before starting repairs, drain the water and limit its flow into the tank.
Determine the type of bulb (valve bulb or float bulb).
You can unscrew the float bulb if additionally hold by the stem.
The valve bulb is closed by a plastic ring that holds trigger. You should grab the ring and turn it counterclockwise, freeing the bulb for inspection.
You can remove the described device from the rods by pressing on one of the clamps (there are four in total).
If the pear has uneven spots, cracks or rust, it must be replaced.
When replacing one device with another, make sure that their dimensions are completely identical.

By following all the above instructions, you will never need to call a specialist, because you can do all the work yourself.

Adjustment of individual elements

To install new system responsible for filling with water, You will need the following tools:

plastic ruler or metal tape measure;
adjustable wrench;
wrenches;
recently purchased fittings components.

Water can flow into the tank. If we are talking about a lateral connection, for repairs you need to perform the following steps:

Set the diameter of the water intake pipe.
Choose the system that is needed for your model. This is quite simple to do - you need to remove the lid from the tank and see what kind of fittings are in it. After that, buy the same one for sure.
After the entire structure has been purchased, you can install new water intake fittings.
Shut off the water supply to the toilet.
Open the lid and drain the water completely.
Remove the old fittings. This can be done after you unscrew the nut located on the flexible hose with a wrench. At the same time, be sure to support the entire structure.
This event One person can do it - the main thing is to work harmoniously with both hands.

In the case where the water comes from below, you will need to struggle a lot to unscrew the nut. This can be done only with improvised materials or by first shortening the standard spanner:

Carefully inspect the used gasket. If it has no visible damage or irregularities, it can be reused for a new structure being installed.
New fittings should be positioned so as not to interfere with work drainage system, and also do not touch the walls of the tank itself.
Connect the water.
Check that the work has been completed correctly.

Setting up the drainage system

Having provided correct work drainage system, you can save a significant amount of money that would otherwise be spent on excessive water consumption. To begin repairing a flush cistern without the help of a technician, all stages of work should be performed in strict sequence, without missing possible breakdowns and shortcomings.

Get rid of float mechanism failures. It is quite easy to understand if there are problems with it. The main indicator is that the tank is constantly filled with water, and it immediately flows into the toilet.
There are several reasons leading to this process:
- poor intake valve condition(in some cases it fails due to high water pressure);
- displacer malfunction(as a result of prolonged use, the float may crack and fill with water);
- lever misalignment(it should be horizontally 20 mm below the hole through which water is drawn).
Eliminate constant water leaking into the toilet. Most often, this problem occurs due to the expiration of the siphon membrane. It needs to be replaced with a new one.
To do this, drain the water, remove the siphon, replace the old membrane with a new one, put the siphon in place, attach it to the lever and tighten the fastening nut.

To fully adjust the drain mechanism of the toilet cistern, if it is broken, it is necessary to eliminate all these faults.

Do-it-yourself replacement of fittings

Replacement work should begin with turning off the water supply and draining it. After this, the supply hose is removed and the tank itself is unscrewed. Then the old fittings are pulled out and the water supply valve is unscrewed.

The final stage of repair is installing new fittings and securing the bowl to the toilet. Checking correct position float and the normal functioning of the sealing washer located on the water supply hose. Special attention pay attention to the nut tightening the hose. Extra effort there is no need to twist it.

Video about repairing and replacing toilet cistern fittings with your own hands will help you better understand the issue:

How to remove the tank completely if repair is impossible?

If the toilet tank cannot be repaired, it should be carefully replaced- but how to do this? You need to act in a certain sequence:

Stop water supply. Using a Swedish adjustable wrench, disconnect the water line.
Unscrew the drain button.
Remove the cover.
Unscrew the two screws that attach the bowl to the toilet (they are located at the bottom of the tank).
Install a new one in place of the old gasket. This will help avoid possible leaks in the future.
Attach a new tank to the toilet, strictly following the reverse sequence of actions.

The tank must be installed level, otherwise it will either crack or leak. The bolts are screwed to the toilet gradually to avoid distortion.

If you have problems with the toilet no need to panic and immediately contact the specialist. Having several screwdrivers and pliers at home, as well as listening to the recommendations of experts, you can do all the work yourself, even if this is your first time.

When installing sanitaryware in a new house or recently purchased apartment, you need to worry about correct installation toilet, tight connection of hoses and pipes, serviceability of gaskets and fasteners. Old plumbing also occasionally requires a preventive inspection. Due to poor water quality, the fittings quickly wear out and fail, and then urgent repairs of the drain tank are required. Delay costs your home, including your downstairs neighbors, flooding.

What does a cistern consist of?

At first glance, it’s a simple device: a container equipped with a drain and water supply system. When you press the button, the mechanism releases water, the supply valve opens, and the empty container is refilled.

The main functional parts of the tank: 1(1) – inlet (filling) fittings; 1(2) – drain (drain) mechanism; 1(3) – water drain button. All details are interconnected

Video: how to remove the toilet lid

Do-it-yourself cistern repair

It turns out that even such a basic device can break down. Let's take a closer look at how you can troubleshoot problems without resorting to the help of plumbers.

Troubleshooting the float mechanism

If water constantly fills the tank and immediately flows into the toilet, look for a problem in the float mechanism. There may be several reasons for the breakdown:

intake valve wear;
misalignment of the lever (“rocker arm”);
displacer malfunction.

The float (buoy) from long-term use develops cracks through which water enters it. It sinks and ceases to perform its main function - it simply needs to be replaced.

If the lever is bent, it is necessary to return it to the correct, horizontal position. The location of the lever is approximately 2 cm below the hole through which water enters.

Modern kits drain fittings have a different structure - they do not include a traditional float on a rocker arm, although the principle of operation of the mechanism has been preserved

The float mechanisms installed in the tanks of modern toilets can be divided into piston and membrane. The first ones have the simplest design, in which the piston with a sealing collar is pressed against the valve seat and thus shuts off the water supply. The latter are a relatively newer development - they can be found in the vast majority of modern waste cisterns. Instead of a piston with a gasket, they are equipped with a membrane made of wear-resistant silicone or latex, thanks to which the noise level can be significantly reduced during water collection.

The diaphragm valve of the flush tank, although it has more complex design, however, gained wide popularity due to its high reliability and quiet operation

It is not difficult to guess that failure of the locking mechanism is most often associated with wear of the sealing gasket in the first case and the membrane in the second. In addition, malfunctions of the float valves may be associated with malfunctions of other parts of the mechanism:

control lever axis;
saddles;
thrust cap.

Although the availability of inlet fittings of any size in the retail chain makes it possible to replace the entire assembly, there is no need to rush into this. A thrifty owner will definitely disassemble the mechanism and, after identifying the cause of the leak, will fix the breakdown using available means. So, the sealing gasket can be cut from a piece genuine leather or dense rubber, replace the axle with a piece of thicker wire or a nail, and cut the thrust cap from a suitable sealing material.

How to get rid of noise when filling the tank

The loud noise that accompanies the process of filling the tank with water creates discomfort for others. It is easy to get rid of it by adjusting the diameter of the inlet hole or adding a small plastic tube to the fittings. Water will no longer flow freely and noisily into the tank, but will flow through the tube, and accordingly, the loud sound will disappear. To do this, we put a tube 30-35 cm long with one end over the hole, and place the other below the water level with the tank drained. Even if the noise does not completely disappear, the plumbing will become quieter.

A plastic or rubber tube placed over the inlet hole muffles the noise of water entering the tank. This device relevant for tanks with top liner

Replacing bolts in case of leakage

Here, most likely, the steel bolts that secure the tank to the toilet shelf have rotted - they need to be replaced urgently. Having purchased a new set of bolts, we proceed to dismantling the tank:

turn off the water by turning the valve perpendicularly;
dry everything inside and remove any remaining rusty fasteners;
unscrew the nut and disconnect the inlet valve;
unscrew the old bolts securing the tank to the toilet shelf;
remove the tank from the rubber tight cuff;
remove the old bolts. Both must be removed, even if only one of them is faulty;
we clean the connection points between the bolts and the tank and the tank and the toilet;
tighten new bolts;
install the tank on the shelf, having previously secured the cuff;
tighten the fasteners carefully so as not to damage the sanitaryware;
let the water flow and check if it is leaking at the bottom of the tank; We flush the water a couple of times and check again.

Sometimes a leak may appear a little later, so for two days it’s worth carefully checking it occasionally. problem area. As you can see, it is not always necessary to carry out major renovation– sometimes it is enough to replace the fasteners.

To unscrew the bolts connecting the flush cistern to the toilet shelf, no special tool is needed: usually “ears” are provided for easy gripping

Toilet cistern fasteners are available at every plumbing store. The price of the cheapest one is 40-50 rubles, the more expensive option will cost 250-300 rubles

Expert opinion
Victor Kaploukhiy
If the toilet has been used long time, then, most likely, the bolts connecting the tank and the toilet bowl are so rusty that they cannot be unscrewed even with the use of universal penetrating lubricant WD-40. In this case, only a grinder will help, with which you need to carefully cut off the bolts from the underside of the shelf. It is best if someone at home holds the tank at the same time - this way it is guaranteed to remain intact. When looking for replacement fasteners, choose brass hardware. This alloy perfectly resists corrosion, so if the need for disassembly ever arises, you can do it without difficulty.

What to do when water constantly flows

There can be no talk of saving water if it constantly flows in a thin stream into the toilet, not allowing the required volume to accumulate in the container.

Most likely, the problem is in the siphon membrane, which has worn out and lost its ability to seal the hole hermetically. The problem is solved by simply replacing the membrane with a new one.

To do this, you need to perform several steps:

drain the water;
remove the siphon;
remove the old membrane and install a new one;
place the siphon in place, attach it to the lever, and screw in the fastening nut.

Sometimes the problem is not the membrane, but a broken rod, which can also be easily replaced.

The siphon membrane is located at the bottom of the drain fittings. It is a rubber gasket that ensures a tight connection of parts

Expert opinion
Victor Kaploukhiy
Thanks to my varied hobbies, I write on different topics, but my favorite ones are machinery, technology and construction.
The constant flow of water from the tank into the toilet is often not associated with any malfunction. A similar thing happens when, for some reason, the overflow regulation is disrupted. If the drain tube is positioned correctly, the water level in the tank will be 20 mm below the plane of its cut. At the same time, the edge of the drain channel must be more than 10 mm from the inlet pipe of the flexible liner.

What to do if the drain tank does not fill

So, suddenly the water completely stopped flowing into the tank. Will it be enough self-repair, or will I have to turn to plumbers? Let's consider three ways to solve this problem.

First, let's check the serviceability of the supply hose. We turn off the water, disconnect the hose from the tank and place it above any container (you can also above the tank). We unscrew the valve a little and let the water flow again. If everything is in order with the hose, water will flow freely into the container. Otherwise you will have to replace it.

It is possible that the connection point of the supply hose is clogged, since after repairing the pipeline, sand and other mechanical contaminants enter the water and can clog small holes. You can try to clear it with a long, sharp object, such as a screwdriver.

In addition, you should make sure that the coarse filter is clean if a modern shut-off valves with diaphragm valve. To do this you need to disconnect flexible liner and using pliers with thin jaws, remove the filter from the supply pipe. To clean it from dirt, just place the part under a strong stream of water. If the filter is clogged with persistent deposits, then it should be placed in vinegar or solution for several hours. citric acid, then clean with a stiff bristled brush.

The cost of a new supply hose is about 100 rubles. It is better to buy a product that has a shut-off valve - if the cistern leaks, it is much easier to turn off the water

If the failure of the float mechanism is due to wear of the intake valve, then it would be advisable to replace the assembly. The effort and time spent on repairs are not worth the couple of hundred rubles that will have to be paid for new fittings. As practice shows, only a few succeed in repairing the locking mechanism - most likely, you are not one of them.

Replacement of fittings

If you don’t want to tinker with small parts of the fittings that have become unusable, you can simply remove the old one and install a new mechanism purchased in a store in its place.

When removing old fittings, pay attention to faults. It may not be necessary to completely replace the mechanism; sometimes it is enough to change one small part

Fitting kits for flush tanks have design differences. For example, their structure varies depending on the type of eyeliner - side or bottom

First, let’s figure out how best to disassemble the structure using the example of reinforcement with bottom connections:

turn off the water;
carefully unscrew the button;
remove the cover;
disconnect the liner;
We remove the drain column in parts: first we dismantle the upper part (rotating 90 degrees);
unscrew the fasteners of the drain tank;
we place it on the toilet for further work;
unscrew two nuts: securing the valve and column, take out the second part of the fittings;
we install a new mechanism and carry out reverse work on installing the tank.

As you can see, changing the components of the tank is not difficult: the whole operation takes no more than 10-15 minutes. Another advantage independent work– no special tools are required, all actions are carried out using hands, pliers and keys.

A well-functioning cistern is recognized as a common occurrence, and its breakdown leads to a fair amount of trouble. Plus, it’s difficult to sleep when water is flowing all the time - both additional costs and the risk of flooding the neighbors below. But it’s possible to repair a toilet cistern yourself!

In this article we will look at common drain failures and how to repair a toilet cistern with your own hands. As well as adjusting the toilet cistern.

The cistern fittings require maintenance and periodic repairs. For example, in a drain tank, the float valve and the float itself may become unusable. In addition, O-rings can cake (seal the feed and drain pipe), thereby losing its elasticity.

Drain fittings for toilet cistern

For that current repairs You must first do the following:

1) 2) 3) 4)

Repairing a toilet cistern - detailed instructions

To repair a plumbing cistern, you will need the following:

Pliers
Adjustable or gas wrench
Set of rubber gaskets
Sponge
Rags
Gloves

Before repairing any damage to the toilet cistern, remove the top cover very carefully, as... It is not a spare part and is not available separately. That is, if you break the lid, you will have to completely replace the toilet cistern.

Remove the lid from the tank carefully!

The method of installing the tank lid for draining water can vary depending on the manufacturer. Therefore, it’s not a sin to look at the instructions before starting, if you haven’t lost them. In addition, do not forget to turn off the water!

If your toilet begins to “dance”, do not rush to get upset. You can fix it yourself detailed instructions- look.

Noisy filling of the cistern

A rubber or plastic tube muffles the noise when water is drawn into the tank

If the toilet cistern is noisy or leaking, you need to do this.

Adjust the diameter of the inlet or add a small flexible plastic tube to the toilet cistern drain fitting. Water will flow through this tube, thereby eliminating the loud noise. To do this:

Place a flexible tube (its length is from 30 to 35 cm) with one end over the hole, and place the other below the water level when the tank is drained. Although the noise may not completely disappear, it will definitely become quieter.

Toilet cistern is leaking: replacing bolts

How to fix a toilet flush tank with your own hands if the water goes to the floor and not to the right place and why? The problem here is that the steel bolts are most likely rotted. These bolts are used to attach the cistern to the toilet shelf that needs to be replaced immediately.

"Ears" for convenient unscrewing of bolts

Having purchased a new set of bolts, we proceed to disassembling the drain tank:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

Bolts for attaching the tank to the toilet shelf 8. 9. 10.

Tightening the nut at the leak site

Another tip on how to repair a toilet flush tank to fix the leak for good. Most likely, the problem is in the siphon membrane - it has worn out, thereby no longer sealing the hole hermetically. This problem can be easily resolved: replace it with a new one. To do this:

Replacing the toilet cistern gasket

Empty the drain tank of water.
Remove the siphon.
Remove the failed membrane.
Install a new one.
Place the siphon back and connect it to the lever.
Screw in the locking nut.

Although sometimes the problem is not in the membrane, but in traction faults. In this case, replacing the drain tank fittings is also easy.

The cistern does not fill

If your drain tank suddenly stops filling completely with water, then you can solve this problem in three ways:

1. First check the functionality of the supply hose. To do this:

1) Turn off the water, disconnect the hose from the drain tank and place it above some container (you can also above the tank itself).

2) Unscrew the valve a little and let the water flow. If the hose is in good condition, water will flow freely into the container. Otherwise, replace it with a new one.

Checking the supply hose

Sometimes the place where the supply hose connects to the tank simply becomes clogged. Because after the renovation water pipes Sand and other technical contaminants penetrate into the water and can clog small holes. To fix this:

Try to clear the area using a long, sharp object, such as a screwdriver.

And the last reason is the failure of the float device, namely: wear shut-off valve toilet cistern that will need to be replaced. More on this below.

Float device malfunctions

If water constantly flows into the tank and at the same time goes into the toilet, then the problem is in the float device. What kind of mechanism this is, you can read in the article on our website.

There may be several reasons for its failure:

1) The shut-off valve is worn out.

2) The lever (“yoke”) is bent.

3) The float has become unusable.

Modern fitting kit with float on rocker arm

So, if the lever is skewed, then turn it to a horizontal position. Important! The lever should be located approximately 2 cm below the hole through which water is drawn.

The toilet cistern shut-off valve may be of various structures depending on a particular tank model. Sometimes this valve cannot cope with strong pressure. In this case, install a float valve.

The float, or otherwise called the buoy, cracks over time. Through them, water gets inside the float and it begins to sink, thereby no longer fulfilling its function. Just replace it with a new one, read on how to do this:

Replacing the float valve - step-by-step instructions

Replacing the float

Drain the water from the tank.
Using a wrench, unscrew the fitting connecting this valve to the water pipe.
Unhook the lever.
Unscrew the outer and inner fastening nuts.
Pull out the float lever. Important! Use the same fastening nuts.
Let the water flow into the cistern.
Secure the float lever in the required position.

If you still have questions about how to properly repair a toilet cistern yourself, you can watch the video instructions here:

Global repair: replacement of toilet flush fittings

If you don’t want to mess with the small elements of a worn-out drain fitting for a toilet tank, then simply remove the old one and install a new one in its place.

When removing the old drain fittings, pay attention to the damage. You may not need to change it completely, but only a small part

First, let's figure out how to dismantle the tank using the example of a drain fitting with a bottom water supply:
Turn off the water and carefully unscrew the toilet cistern flush button.
Remove the cover.
Disconnect the liner.
Remove the drain column piece by piece. First, disassemble the top. To do this, rotate it 90°.
Unscrew the fastening element of the drain tank.
For further work, place the tank on the toilet.
Unscrew two nuts: securing the column and valve.
Remove the bottom of the toilet cistern drain fitting.
Replace the old fittings with new ones.
Install the drain tank in reverse order.

So, as you can see, replacing the insides of the toilet tank is a breeze: the whole process takes no more than 10-15 minutes. And at the same time, you do not need a special tool: you can replace the toilet flush fittings only with the help of your hands, wrenches and pliers.

Adjusting the toilet cistern

Adjusting the fittings of the water drain tank

There are cases when the settings of the drain tank fittings from the manufacturer do not match the necessary ones. Then you need to adjust the toilet cistern yourself.

The adjustment procedure is simple: you just need to follow these steps:

Instructions for adjusting the toilet flush tank

1. Disconnect the rod from the overflow pipe.

2. Press out the cup fastening.

3. Place the stand up or down.

4. Adjust the water level. To do this:

1) Change the position of the glass (lift or release) using the guide. At the same time, leave a distance of at least 4.5 cm from the top of the glass to the top edge of the tank.

2) Place the overflow pipe above the maximum water level - 2 cm, but below the upper level of the stand - 7 cm.

To adjust the low flush:

Move its float up or down, taking into account the location of the overflow tube.

How to set maximum flush? Move the shutter up or down relative to the glass. That is, in both cases, adjusting the toilet cistern involves changing the position by moving up or down. If you make the damper down, the flow of drained water will increase.