How to put the kitchen set. Preparation of the room for the installation of a kitchen set. Video - How to assemble a drawer

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A significant part of furniture manufacturers produce their products in disassembled form. This reduces shipping costs and promotes the safety of packaged parts. If the upholstered furniture is delivered to the buyer assembled, then the cabinets will most likely have to be received in separate parts, accompanied by instructions. Self-assembly of kitchen furniture is a way to save money and an opportunity to show your skills. You can immediately order the assembly in the store, but it is expensive, since the cost of the service sometimes reaches 10% of the total price of the kit, depending on the number of items. This can be done on your own with minimal skills in working with tools.

Preparatory stage

If the kitchen is assembled with your own hands, then before proceeding with the assembly work, it is necessary to prepare the area, free it from old furniture, check the sockets, wash and dry the walls and floors, which will subsequently be behind the cabinets. The initial preparatory stage begins even before the furniture set for the kitchen is purchased. At this stage, the arrangement is planned:

• a room plan is drawn up indicating the dimensions, configuration, stationary structures;
• a place for the working and dining areas is determined, the issue of furniture placement is resolved (linear, corner, U-shaped);
• dimensions, the number of cabinets are calculated, taking into account the stove, refrigerator and other household appliances.

Since the kitchen is a place where housewives spend a lot of time, it is necessary to think in advance (even at the repair stage) how and where exactly all the items in the headset will be installed. It is necessary that it be convenient, comfortable, and at the same time, one should not forget about the aesthetic appearance - the situation should be in harmony with other rooms. If the room is closer to a square in shape, then two walls with hanging cabinets can be distinguished for the working area. It is better to place a refrigerator and a table parallel to the stove and sink, on top - shelves or wall cabinets.

Zoning the kitchen depends on the configuration of the room. The working area is located where the sink and gas stove are installed. The dining area is located against a free wall or near a window.

Since by the time of purchase it is already known where each cabinet will be installed, it remains only to mount and then arrange all the structures in the prepared place.

Assembly instructions

The first step is to check the configuration. To do this, all the details are compared with the received instructions for assembling kitchen furniture. If an incomplete set is found, contact the seller. You should not rush to purchase accessories and fasteners on your own, perhaps the packaging with them remained in the store or car, the missing parts will be returned upon request. Such a simple action will avoid unnecessary expenses, as well as eliminate the risk that the purchased items will not fit.

The next step is to carefully study the instructions. It is not necessary to remember all the steps, since the document can be used at any time while the furniture is being assembled. For the first time, you need to:

• determine the approximate order of work;
• identify and fold furniture packages in accordance with this order;
• learn to navigate the sections of the manual.

How to assemble kitchen furniture in several stages:

• assembly of cabinets from parts in accordance with the instructions;
• marking of attachment points;
• putting objects in place, fixing;
• countertop installation;
• final work.

Before starting the assembly, it is desirable to protect the flooring, for this you can use furniture packaging.

Before starting work, it is necessary to check the complete set and study the instructions.

Wall cabinets

Prefabricated kitchen furniture consists of several upper and lower level cabinets. The standard design of the locker consists of two side and rear walls, upper and lower planes, facade, internal shelves. Start by attaching the sides to the bottom, then attach the top cover. For connection, euro screws and a hex screwdriver are used. Check the correctness of the geometric shape at right angles or by measuring two diagonals. The back wall is nailed with a stapler or hammer, depending on the shape of the fasteners. Recently, staples have almost replaced furniture studs.

Drawers

It is generally accepted that the installation of drawers is the most time-consuming part of the work. But in modern furniture, special fittings are provided. Inside the cabinet, markings were made on the side walls, guide rails are included in the package, the boxes are brought assembled.

If you purchased a kitchen set with disassembled drawers, then it is easy to assemble them and fix the three sidewalls with screws. The front wall is fixed with an eccentric tie or in another way indicated in the instructions. The task of the assembler is to determine which wall (right or left) the rails are attached to. Then the runners are fixed with a screwdriver along the markings. It is advisable to insert the drawers before installing the doors in order to determine the ease of their movement.

After installation, they check once again how far the drawers are pulled out, whether the door interferes with their movement.

Masters often argue in what sequence it is necessary to carry out the installation of kitchen furniture. But this is a matter of personal convenience for everyone. Each option has its positive and negative sides.

If you start installation from the top row:

• it is more convenient to work, as you can come close to the wall;
• it is more difficult to determine the height for the mounts, as it will require calculations.

Starting from the bottom row:

• it is easier to navigate the height, width and mounting locations of the corresponding cabinets;
• it is more difficult to work with the upper level, as already installed structures interfere.

The order of installation is not fundamental, everyone can do as they see fit. Usually work begins from the sink, and the top row - from the far corner.

At the final stages of assembling kitchen furniture, final work is carried out, giving the environment a finished look, namely:

• install internal shelves;
• install a sink, taps, connect them to the sewerage and water supply system;
• attach moldings and other decorative elements, if any;
• mount the backlight on the headset;
• connect the built-in appliances to the mains.

Between the countertop and the wall, the space is smeared with sealant, the junction is masked with a plinth (it is purchased separately). After that, the tools and packaging are removed, the hostess is invited into the kitchen, who should appreciate the work.

Installation of internal shelves Connecting appliances

Video

In our country, people collect furniture in their apartment on their own. As far as this is the right decision - each owner should decide for himself. In our article we will describe how to assemble a kitchen set with your own hands.

To get a quality result, any work requires preparation. Kitchen remodeling is no exception.

Step 1

Check that all necessary tools are present and working. Charge the battery of the screwdriver, prepare the jigsaw. Electrical engineering can be replaced with mechanical tools, but this will only increase the time and complexity of installing the kitchen.

You may also need:

Step 2

Examine the delivered set of furniture for defects and the presence of all elements. If you find a shortage or regrading, you can contact the supplier or buy on your own what is missing.

Step 3

Read the assembly instructions for the kitchen set you have purchased. Kitchens made by different manufacturers may have their own installation features that are worth considering.

Step 4

Move everything out of the room to free up space for assembly, remove all debris. Floors must be clean.

Note! In order not to damage the flooring during the installation of cabinets, you can cover the floor with a tarpaulin or other sheet.

After preparing and checking the tools, furniture and premises, you can proceed to the assembly itself.

The nuances of assembling a kitchen set

To properly assemble the kitchen, you must first familiarize yourself with the features and rules of installation.

1. Installation of kitchen furniture starts from the corner, if the set is angular. A linear kitchen begins to be assembled from the cabinet that will rest against the wall.

   

2. It is not recommended to assemble all cabinets at once. Only after one assembled module is installed in place, they begin to assemble the next one. This helps to avoid cluttering up the space.
3. There should be a distance of half a centimeter between the countertop and the wall.

   

4. Do not install facades on the upper cabinets immediately. Without doors, it will be easier to hang the modules.
5. Guides for drawers are attached to the inner surface of the side walls until the cabinets are assembled.

   

Kitchen installation

Opinions on whether to start the installation of the kitchen from the upper or lower cabinets are divided. Some experts believe that already installed floor cabinets can interfere with the process of installing hanging cabinets. According to other furniture makers, you need to start from the bottom row, from which the height of the upper cabinets is already measured.

You can choose the option that is convenient for you. We will describe the first case. But first you need to tell the general principle of collecting cabinets and drawers.

How to properly assemble the elements of the headset

Drawers are one of the most convenient kitchen units. If we are talking about narrow cabinets, for example, bottle holders, then the guides for the boxes are fixed in them before the box itself is assembled. If the cabinet is wide enough, then the installation of all fasteners for drawers is carried out after the assembly of the module.

At the preliminary stage, a cross from the door hinges is also attached to the designated places. After that, proceed directly to the assembly of the box.

Step 1. They take the side wall of the box and place it with its end face on a flat surface so that the front part looks up.

Step 2 The wall of the cabinet is joined at a right angle to the bottom and the connection is fixed with confirmations. In factory kitchens, holes for euro screws are usually already prepared.

Step 3 The other side wall is attached in the same way.

Step 4 After that, two upper strips are installed if the lower pedestals are assembled. At wall cabinets, a cover is mounted.

Note! The ends of the side walls should be flush with the bottom, as well as the lid or top bars.

Step 5 The cabinet is laid on a flat surface with the front side down and its diagonals are measured, the difference between the lengths of which should not be more than 1.5 mm.

Step 6 Fix the back wall of the cabinet with staples or nails, placing them at a distance of 7 cm from each other. To make the fastening of the back part more durable, some experts use screws instead of nails and furniture staples.

Note! The cabinet above which the sink will be installed does not have a back wall, but is often equipped with an additional stiffener.

Step 7 Adjustable legs are attached to the bottom of the floor cabinets. The distance from them to the nearest edges should be about 50 mm. Legs can be metal or plastic.

In the first case, they perform not only a supporting, but also a decorative function. Plastic products at the end of the installation of the kitchen are closed with a plinth. Suspended structures are provided with hinges for mounting to the wall.

The drawer is assembled according to the same principle.

Step 1. Four planks are connected to each other at right angles to form a box.

Step 2 Diagonals are measured, the lengths of which should not differ from each other.

Step 3 Guides are fixed to the side walls of the box.

Step 4 Mount the front of the box with screws. Sometimes the front wall of the box can serve as a facade. In this case, it is attached to the side rails with an eccentric. But this design is rarely found in modern kitchens.

We measure the diagonal, both diagonals should be the same

Drawers are best assembled after the upper cabinets and lower cabinets are assembled and installed.

As noted above, so that the bottom row of cabinets does not interfere, many experts recommend hanging the upper cabinets first.

First of all, correctly mark the place of attachment. To do this, lay off the height from the floor, at which the bottom of the cabinets will be located. If the person who will work in the kitchen most often has an average height, then it is recommended to measure 1.3 - 1.4 m for the bottom of the cabinet. Then, from this mark, the height of the cabinets themselves is also laid up and a line is marked where the fasteners will be installed. The line must be flat and horizontal, which is checked using the mounting level.

Note! The distance between the worktop and the upper section should be about 0.6 m. Therefore, if you decide to start installation from the lower cabinets, then measure this distance from them upwards to select the height of the upper cabinets.

You can hang cabinets in different ways:

• the traditional option involves the use of mounting loops;
• in the second case, a rail is used, which is mounted to the wall, and a kind of hook attached to the back wall of the cabinet and clinging to the rail.

Note! An exhaust duct and a gas pipe often pass through the top section of the headset. For this reason, in all cabinets, it is necessary to pre-cut holes for these communications with a jigsaw or hacksaw. Places of all cuts must be treated with sealant.

The first method of mounting wall cabinets includes the following steps.

• along the line drawn on the wall, mark the place of the first fastening and drill a hole with a puncher;
• fasteners are inserted into the hole;
• a cabinet is hung on the mount on one loop and, continuing to hold the module, align it with a spirit level and mark the place where you need to drill a hole for the second fastener of this cabinet;
• after installing the second fastener, hang and finally align the cabinet.

This procedure is repeated for all cabinets.

The second mounting method makes it easier to install the top section. It should be noted that in this case it is not possible to attach the cabinets close to the wall. This installation of upper cabinets, although expensive, is very simple:

• first, a special metal bar is attached along the line drawn on the wall;
• to the upper corners of the rear wall of the cabinets, special hanging devices of the type of hooks are screwed with screws;
• hook hooks on the rail;
• level the closet.

When the entire top row is mounted and leveled, the cabinets must be pulled together with furniture screws.

Installation of lower pedestals

After the installation of the upper sections is completed, you can proceed with the installation of floor cabinets.

Note! In the lower cabinets, it will also be necessary to make holes and recesses for sewer, water and gas pipes, as well as for connecting electrical appliances to the network.

Step 1. Starting from the corner, the cabinet is put into place.

Step 2 Adjust the legs of the cabinet.

Step 3 Install and adjust the height and other cabinets.

Step 4 They tighten adjacent cabinets with a clamp, and then with a furniture screed.

After that, a countertop is installed on the cabinets. First you need to cut a hole in it with a jigsaw for washing.

1. To do this, lay the countertop on the cabinets as it will lie after installation.
2. Then choose the installation site of the sink and mark it with a pencil.
3. According to the marked contour in the table lid, a hole is cut with an electric jigsaw.
4. Treat the cut with silicone sealant.

If necessary, a hole is made in the countertop for the hob and for communications.

After that, you can install the table cover in place. Often this is done using furniture corners that are screwed to the side walls of cabinets. The countertop is laid on cabinets and leveled.

If the lid of the cabinets consists of two parts, then they are connected using metal strips as follows:

• with a hacksaw, the bar is cut to the width of the countertop;
• coat with sealant one surface of the plank;
• fasten it with screws to the cut of the countertop;
• lubricate the other surface of the metal rail with sealant and immediately dock with another part of the table top.

After that, the tabletop is fixed on the cabinets by screwing screws into the holes of the furniture corners.

Final stage

Completing the installation does not require as much physical effort as accuracy in work. After all, the appearance of the headset depends on this stage.

1. At the junction of the tabletop with the wall, a gap remains, which is closed with a plinth.
2. After that, the doors are hung. They are adjusted using special hinge bolts.
3. At the same stage, drawers, built-in appliances are installed in place, the headset is illuminated and the facades and the basement plan are mounted.
4. Put in place and connect the sink.

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

The kitchen is now ready for use.

Also read also on our website an article about the facades for the kitchen with your own hands.

Video - How to assemble a kitchen with your own hands

Video - How to assemble a kitchen with your own hands. hanging cabinets

Video - How to assemble a drawer

Video - Inserting a sink into a countertop

19.04.2018

Hello, friends.

What is independent, and what is its general algorithm? We will talk about this today in this article.

But before talking about the installation, I will say a few words about what should be done the day before.

And on the eve, all kitchen modules should be assembled and packed for transportation as much as possible (they are usually packed in a special film that protects them from scratches). All facades must be hung on them (at first, the facades can not be adjusted - they will be adjusted at the end of the installation itself), handles must be hung on the facades, etc. In a word, everything that can be done before installing the headset must be done.

The room itself, in which it should be, must be completely ready for installation. This means that if it was repaired, then:

• The floors must be made (the field for mounting the kitchen set, you can no longer crawl under its supports)
• The working wall of tiles (if any) should be laid out
• All old furniture, located at the place of installation of the kitchen, must be taken out of the room
• There must be working sockets in the room (or somewhere nearby, to connect the carrying)
• All built-in appliances must be available (sink, hob, oven, extractor hood)
• Tentatively, at least a whole day should be allocated for the installation of a kitchen set.

When all of the above conditions are met, (unassembled, of course) is delivered to the installation site.

Any kitchen is usually installed from the lower modules. If this is a corner kitchen, then the installation always starts from the corner (corner modules are installed first).

Before mounting the modules, all facades are removed from them.

Having set the lower modules, and having fastened them together with coupling bolts, they must be set “in level”, by means of adjustable supports. The modules are exposed, taking into account all the gaps (relative to the walls and relative to the countertop), which are taken into account in the project.

After all the lower modules are exposed, the countertop is “adjusted” under them. When the countertop is fitted and exposed, a sink with a hob crashes into it. Then the tabletop is installed on the lower modules and fastened.

When the lower base of the kitchen is installed, the level of the upper modules is measured, holes are marked on the wall for awnings for the upper modules.

Then the upper modules are hung, adjusted “by level”, and pulled together by the same coupling bolts.

When the lower and upper bases of the kitchen set are installed, the plinth is installed (on the countertop), the facades are hung and adjusted, and, in general, everything, the kitchen is installed.

Water and gas are connected to the equipment by the owner. Especially, I do not recommend messing with water, because if something is done wrong and the kitchen is flooded, you yourself will be to blame. And this, at least, is stupid, to do a lot of work, and then “screw it up” all over.

If it is planned to attach an apron made of MDF, chipboard or plastic to the working wall (wall panel), then it is attached at the very beginning (before installing the lower modules).

That's all, see you soon!

• Preparing for the main process
• Assembly of ordinary cabinets
• Assembly of cabinets with drawers
• Carrying out the installation of headset parts

A new kitchen set is an important moment for any housewife. After all, it is in the kitchen that a person has the opportunity to both realize himself and feel himself. A new kitchen set, as a rule, is delivered to the home of customers unassembled. Therefore, it is also necessary to assemble it correctly.

But assembly in our time with the help of master furniture makers is far from always done with high quality and as expected. After all, most workers are in a hurry to assemble and install furniture as quickly as possible, while not spending significant effort on the process itself. But not only the decorative appearance and ease of use of furniture items directly depend on the quality of assembly and installation, but also personal safety. After all, if you hang a cabinet of poor quality, it can fall off the wall at any time.

Preparing for the main process

It is for these reasons that many people prefer to install a kitchen set with their own hands, without involving specialists. And they do it right. Indeed, it is not difficult for any man to do this work with his own hands if he follows some useful tips. The whole process is divided into three main stages: the preparation stage, the assembly stage and the stage of fixing and installing the kitchen set. Let's consider everything in detail and in order.

Figure 1. Measurement of diagonals is carried out using a tape measure or a long ruler.

First you need to prepare for the process of assembling furniture. To do this, purchase in advance all the materials and tools necessary for the work. This will provide significant time savings in the process. You will definitely need:

• building level;
• screwdriver with various nozzles;
• electric drill;
• tape measure and pencil for marking;
• self-tapping screws;
• a hammer;
• furniture stapler;
• nails;
• wood glue and a thin brush;
• a set of all accessories necessary for furniture, which always comes with furniture.

It is advisable to immediately check the assembly diagram, which is attached to the furniture set, and the presence of all the necessary headsets and fasteners. If something is missing, then you need to buy it. Before work, you need to free up as much space as possible in the room so that you can assemble it without hindrance. The floor should be freed, if possible, from carpet and linoleum. And be sure to cover it with a thick tarpaulin, burlap or several layers of polyethylene so that nothing can be hooked or scratched during assembly.

Immediately, without waiting for the assembly of furniture, prepare access in the kitchen to the installation sites of the headset. In this case, it is advisable to pay the greatest attention to all kinds of pipes, sinks and exhaust hoods. It is very important that all this is in good condition, otherwise, in the event of a leak, the furniture may deteriorate greatly. When you do, unpack the furniture, study the blueprint, and start assembling.

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Assembly of ordinary cabinets

Figure 2. The rails should be close to each other so that there are no gaps between the boxes.

Since you need to assemble the headset directly according to the drawing, this will not cause you any special difficulties. As a rule, the assembly process takes place in turn for each individual piece of furniture. Therefore, unpack in turn, so as not to get confused later. We begin to consider the process of assembling furniture from ordinary bedside tables and under drawers.

At the beginning of work, with the help of a pencil and a tape measure, we must make measurements according to the marking scheme, where the connections and fastenings of the parts will be located. Now, using a screwdriver and screws, we fasten the bottom of the cabinet and the side walls, and then we fasten its upper part. The place that remains free inside is checked diagonally with a tape measure (Fig. 1). If they differ from each other by more than 2.5 mm, this problem must be immediately resolved. Usually everything falls into place either after a light tapping with a hammer (preferably rubber), or after a deeper deepening of the screws, or, conversely, by unscrewing them a little. The correct location of the upper part is checked by the building level.

After that, you can mark the places for the door hinges and install them. We put doors on the hinges, which then, when the cabinet is placed in a vertical position, are adjusted by screwing the screws, which can be done even with an ordinary screwdriver or chisel, depending on the screw head. After that, a countertop can be attached to the upper part, which is best done with self-tapping screws. You just have to attach furniture legs or wheels, which is also done using self-tapping screws.

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Assembly of cabinets with drawers

Figure 3. The distance from the countertop to the cabinet is usually 500-600 mm.

Things are a little different with the cabinet for drawers. Here, before fastening the bottom with the sides, on their inner part, the so-called rails (Fig. 2) are immediately marked and attached, along which these boxes will ride. All this must be done very carefully, constantly making measurements. After all, the slightest deviation can skew, as a result of which the boxes will drive quite badly. Also carefully calculate the distance between the rails so that there are no large gaps between the boxes in the future and that they are not very tightly located one above the other. After all, in the end, everything should work freely without much effort for that.

Before starting the installation of fasteners for the drawers, it is advisable to immediately assemble the drawers themselves for the cabinet. To do this, on the reverse side of the front of the box, markings are made for fastening the walls and for installing the handle. The side, back and front walls are connected to each other with screws. But it may also be (in cheaper headsets) that a connection of a spike into a hole is provided. Then the markup is usually already done, and you just have to pour wood glue into the hole, where you can then fix the walls with spikes. At the same time, it is desirable to additionally fix everything from below with a powerful construction stapler or nails when you nail the bottom.

Make sure that 90-degree angles are observed everywhere during installation. When properly assembled, all parts should fit perfectly with each other. Now you just have to attach the handle to the front, which is also done in most cases with screws (depending on the specific type of handle). Now just slide the drawers into the closet: if everything works well, then the assembly is done correctly. If not, then you will have to make adjustments with a hammer, and if it doesn’t work out, unscrew everything again and insert the guide “rails” again.

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Carrying out the installation of headset parts

Figure 4. The rail for the kitchen set is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws.

In this way, all the details of the kitchen set are assembled. When this is done, begin with your own hands. You need to start with markup. So, first put one cabinet on the floor, and measure 50 cm from it or 60 cm upwards, depending on what is more convenient for you (Fig. 3). Put a point in this place and draw a straight line. This line will show the lower level of the hinged headset. Now the full height of the wall cabinet is added to this line, the point is re-placed and a straight line is drawn again. This strip will indicate the top level of hanging furniture installation.

Now we put completely the entire headset, which will be below. To do this, in the back walls, if necessary, we immediately cut through with a jigsaw or file the places for the passage of pipes. And we treat the places of cuts with silicone sealant to prevent their shedding and deformation from moisture ingress into the thickness of the wood. During installation, we immediately check everything with a building level, and in case of distortions (and this often happens, since the floors in the rooms are often uneven), we twist the legs so that all the furniture is level. In extreme cases, you can put special rubber pads under the legs, which are sold in the store.

Now we put specific points on the top strip on the wall where the hooks for hanging the cabinets will be located. Just first measure the distance from the countertop to the lower base of the hanging box and to the top line again, and if necessary, correct the markings.

Now we proceed to the installation of fasteners for the kitchen set. There are two main types of fasteners: a special metal tire, for which holes are made in the right places, dowels are driven in, after which the tire is applied and self-tapping screws are driven in (Fig. 4). Then a cabinet is already hung on the bus.

The second option is mounting on special hooks. To do this, we drill a hole with a drill, drive in plastic dowels, screw metal hooks into them very tightly, on which we then put on a cabinet. For more reliable fastening, if the cabinet is heavy enough, there may be not two, but four hooks: two on top and two on the bottom.

So, the installation of a kitchen set with your own hands is over!

Here, the features of the assembly and installation of the main standard structures were considered.

In the case of working with non-standard cabinets, there is nothing complicated. It will just take you a little longer. But if you follow the drawing clearly, then everything will definitely work out, and you will be sure of the reliability of assembling and installing furniture with your own hands.

A beautiful, comfortable kitchen should include many details. A prerequisite is the presence of a kitchen set that contains all the dishes, kitchen utensils, bulk products and household appliances. This is how multifunctional a kitchen set should be. But it is one thing to choose and purchase furniture in a store. And it’s completely different to install cabinets and pencil cases in the kitchen. Of course, in any furniture store, customers will be offered the services of craftsmen. But, installing a kitchen set is not so difficult. Therefore, any man can successfully cope with this task.

Auxiliaries

To assemble the details of a kitchen set into a single structure with your own hands, you need to prepare auxiliary devices that will help you cope with the task. For work you will need:

• Drilling tool, screwdriver.
• A carpenter's jigsaw that will help cut the countertop.
• Screwdriver, hex.
• A set of planks for joints and a decorative plinth.

Stages of work

Do-it-yourself headset installation begins with the attachment of cabinets and drawers at the bottom of the structure. First of all, they mount the body part, to which shelves and drawers are attached. In order for the cabinets to be connected into a single strong base, they need to be fastened with metal ties and corners. Then, be sure to check how tightly the pedestal fits against the wall. To prevent the top edges from crumbling, they should be protected with a silicone-based sealant.

The next step is the installation of facades using metal hinges, which are screwed with self-tapping screws. Remember that before starting the installation of the kitchen set, you should take care of removing the sewer and water pipes. Gas and electricity are also supplied in advance.

Sink and countertop installation

The kitchen sink is installed by cutting into the surface of the countertop. Preliminary measurements and markings are made corresponding to the size of the sink. The hole for the sink is cut out with a jigsaw. To properly fix the sink, know the design features.

There are two types of sinks:

• With fastening over the curbstone before mounting the tabletop.
• With fastening after installation of a table-top.

However, in both cases, engineering networks must be carried out before the start of installation work.

Installation and assembly of kitchen sets in the photo, involves the installation of countertops. The dimensions of this element should be 1-1.5 cm larger on the front and end sides than the lower cabinets. The remaining gaps between the countertop and the wall are covered with a decorative plinth.

Protecting the work wall

Any kitchen has an apron - a wall between the countertop and the upper cabinets. No matter how carefully the hostess cooks food, the apron area becomes contaminated with droplets of fat. To protect the wall, many tile it. But another option is also possible - to purchase a kitchen set with ready-made panels to protect the working wall. These panels are simply attached with dowels. Screen protectors can vary in color. But, it is wiser to purchase panels that match in color with the kitchen set.

Upper cabinets

The assembly of the kitchen set continues with the installation of wall cabinets. To secure the locker, it must first be assembled. Usually, lockers are delivered to the consumer in disassembled form: separate body and hinged facades. To fix the body part, it is necessary to apply markings at a level of 60 cm from the countertop.

Having outlined this distance with a flat, horizontal line, we designate the place of attachment of the lower part of the cabinets. To determine the attachment point, you need to measure the height of each locker.

As soon as the upper horizontal line is drawn, it is possible to fasten the bar necessary for fixing the cabinets along it. The bar is fixed to the wall with dowels, and then plumb lines are fixed on the bar. And on the back wall of each cabinet, hooks are attached. After hanging, you should check that the upper part of the headset fits snugly against the wall. Then the facades are attached to the body.

In order for the installation of the kitchen set according to the video to go flawlessly, you should start work with the installation of corner cabinets. After assembling with your own hands and installing the structure, it is necessary to tighten each element with special tightening clamps. If, after following this recommendation, gaps and cracks remain between the cabinets, we cover them with a special decorative plinth.

End caps and beautiful, elegant corners are used to finish the end parts.

In custody

In order for the assembly of the kitchen set to go smoothly, it is necessary to carry out the installation step by step. First, the dimensions for installing the kitchen set are determined. Then markup is created, which will clearly show where and how each element of the structure will be located. If the walls in the kitchen are lined with drywall, you should take care of special fasteners that will fix the cabinets on the wall. Having prepared everything you need, you can proceed to the phased installation work.

You can encounter many non-obvious nuances that we tried to describe in the first part of the article. But ahead is the installation of a headset, which can puzzle with its "pitfalls".

How is the installation going?

Before you hang cabinets and install tables, you need to take care of the right choice of furniture fittings.

Fittings include bolts, screws, hinges, handles, shelf supports, drawer guides - everything that is not made of chipboard.

Let's start with the main point: confirmation screws. Such screws are often called "Euro screws" and can be purchased at any furniture hardware store. Such a screw is tightened with a special hex wrench or a hex bit for a screwdriver.

The choice of handles is completely up to you: in any accessories catalog you can find dozens and hundreds of their varieties, and depending on the color of the facade, you will have to choose the appropriate version of the handles.

Loops are also an important point. Exactly the quality of the hinges determines whether the doors will open smoothly how long the loops themselves will last and whether they will withstand the load. The standard version is hinges with a “cup” diameter of 35 millimeters. For each door up to 800 mm long, it is enough to install two hinges.

I must say that drilling the facade for hinges at home is not an easy process, and even if you find and buy a special cutter, you will need an assistant when drilling with a drill. The facade must be held firmly, and when drilling, it is enough to press hard on the drill so that the cutter does not tear out pieces of chipboard.

If you have no experience in such matters, practice on scraps of chipboard: with manual drilling, it is easy to pierce the facade through and through, so it is better to order these works from professionals: drilling one hole costs about 30 rubles.

When drilling holes, the main thing is to correctly calculate the indents. The selected distance will affect the entire installation process.

If you decide to do it yourself, pay attention to the photo:

Note: this is an authentic photo that shows the main thing: the distance from the edge to the BEGINNING of the hole is strictly 4 millimeters.

The best option is 12 centimeters from the top (or bottom) edge TO the CENTER of the hole.

We'll hit the sink

As a small digression, we will explain some points regarding the choice of washing. This is not accessories, but a full-fledged element of any kitchen.

The sink can be both overhead and mortise, and they differ both in cost and appearance. Mortise sinks look more presentable and are mounted directly into the countertop itself.

Each sink has its own characteristics, so you need to carefully measure before you start shredding the countertop.

An electric jigsaw is used to cut a hole for the sink, but it is impossible to give clear instructions for inserting a sink: there are many sink manufacturers, and each of them makes bowls in accordance with their own ideas about the correct design.

Therefore, it is best to use the instructions attached to the sink or study the installation materials that can be found directly on the manufacturers' websites.

Otherwise - from configuration to size - the choice of sink will depend on your tastes and financial capabilities.

What to do with all this?!

So, all the modules are assembled, the fittings are installed, the facades are fixed, which means that you can proceed to the last and most important stage: installation.

Let us immediately note that you need an assistant to install, but you don’t need to call all your friends: one person is enough, and a large number of people will not speed up the process and will only create chaos in which everyone will interfere with each other.

You will need the following tools:

• Stepladder or stool;
• A hammer;
• Phillips and flat screwdrivers (or better - a screwdriver with interchangeable bits);
• Pliers and a chisel (just in case);
• Electric jigsaw and hand saw for metal;
• Building level (the longer - the better);
• Roulette, ruler and pencil;
• Impact electric drill (ideally - a drill and a rotary hammer separately);
• Drills for wood of various diameters (many of them can come in handy in different specific cases);
• Pobedite drills with a diameter of 8 millimeters (for drilling walls);
• Dowels complete with screws for them (dowel size - 8x60 millimeters);
• Wrenches (may not come in handy, but it's better to have);
• Silicone sealant;
• Special bolts.

Get to work!

Installation always starts from the bottom of the headset. Tables must be level. The vast majority of headsets are made on adjustable legs, supports, which allow you to easily raise or lower tables.

If you designed tables with a common solid top, it should be fixed after all the tables are level, but before that it is better to tighten the tables with tie bolts. The sink should already be attached to the countertop.

After that, you can proceed to the canopy of cabinets. For this we need a ladder. One person climbs on it onto the tables and, together with an assistant who remains downstairs and helps, lifts the cabinet. The classic option for mounting cabinets - corner brackets which should already be fixed on the cabinet.

In this case, you need to draw the holes of the bracket ears with a pencil while the assistant holds the cabinet from below.

If the cabinet is equipped with internal brackets, it is immediately hung on a special metal rail, which is pre-attached to the wall.

If the kitchen is corner - the installation starts with a corner cabinet, while it must be leveled. You can read about the design of a corner kitchen with a breakfast bar.

In the case of a straight kitchen, cabinets also begin to hang from the corner. An average cabinet with a width of 800 millimeters weighs about 12-15 kilograms, but it is extremely inconvenient to lift it.

An obligatory component of the process of installing a kitchen set is a clear adjustment.
With proper adjustment, your cabinet doors will open properly and last longer.

In order to facilitate the task, you can first remove the shelf from it, if it is loose, or even remove the facades, but two men of even non-athletic build can easily cope with this task without removing the door.

After the cabinets are hung, it remains the last but crucial step: adjusting the facades.

The fact is that the installed modules can be skewed: this mainly happens if the furniture is not installed level.

Adjustment is carried out with a screwdriver, the photographs show in detail which hinge screws are responsible for the adjustment, and the video on installing the headset clearly demonstrates this process.

What's the price?

That's all: the kitchen set is installed and washed, the doors are adjusted and the furniture is pleasing to the eye. But let's see how much the materials cost, and how profitable it was to spend a few days of your life on this exciting, but not the most difficult task?

Consider the cost of a kitchen set using an example

The cost of the presented direct and not the most complex headset with a width of 280 centimeters in the store is about 37,000 rubles.

• This set took about one and a half sheets of chipboard. One sheet of chipboard costs 1050 rubles, the cost of cutting at the rate of 120 rubles per square meter was about the same. The result - 3000 rubles invested in the material. The cost of the softforming facade used is approximately 900 rubles per sheet 2.5 meters long. This set took about 10 meters of the facade, respectively, its cost was 3600 rubles.
• The retail price of the melamine edge, which was used for pasting, is 3 rubles per linear meter. The total cost of the used edge was approximately 220 rubles.
• The total cost of fittings, including euro screws (retail price 80 kopecks per piece), hinges (50 rubles per piece), as well as glass, decor, sink and handles, amounted to about 3,500 rubles. Due to the low cost, we will not take into account such components as shelf holders and support legs, besides, the price of accessories as a whole can vary greatly in different regions, and therefore there is no point in focusing on the cost of fittings.
• Another optional expense item is a tool. Assuming that you have an impact drill, you can deduct 6,000 rubles from the estimate.
• Let's not forget about the delivery of material, which can cost from 500 to 1500 rubles, depending on the distance and the total cost of such services in each region.
• Let's not forget about a friend who helped in the installation, who also needs to be thanked with money or a bottle of good cognac.

Below is a table that details the costs at all stages of work.

Material	average cost	Quantity used in the manufacture of the headset	Total cost for this headset	Explanations and notes
Chipboard	1050 rubles / sheet (sheet size - 2.5x1.5 m)	1.5 sheets	1575 rub.	–
Sawing work	120 rubles / m 2	–	1500 rub.	–
Facade	900 rubles/sheet	4 sheets or 10 rm	3600 rub.	The cost is indicated for the softforning facade, which was used specifically for this headset. When using other types of facade, the cost may vary, but the cost of ordering finished furniture increases exponentially.
Melamine edge	3 rub./rm	70 m	220 rub.	–
accessories	–	–	3500 rub.	The total cost of euro screws, shelf supports, legs, supports, handles, glass, decor, roller guides for drawers, self-tapping screws, dowels for installation and a dish dryer in a wall cabinet above the sink is indicated.
Washing	1900 rub.	1 PC.	1900 rub.	In this case, an overhead sink manufactured by Franke is installed. This is one of the inexpensive and high-quality models. For reference, the cost of kitchen sinks, depending on the material, type of installation and design, ranges from 900 to 22,000 rubles.
Material delivery	Depending on the region	–	500-1500 rub.	This refers to the payment for cargo transportation services, which varies depending on the region and distance. This item can be ignored if you have your own car: all the details of such a kitchen can be taken out on your own in 1-2 calls and in a car.
Tool	–	–	200-6500 rub.	This item is also not necessary to consider if there is an impact drill. It is its cost that ranges from 4000 to 6000 rubles. In any case, 200-300 rubles. it’s worth adding to the total estimate, since at home you won’t necessarily find something you need: the necessary screwdrivers, a level, or even an ordinary hammer.

conclusions

As a result, it turns out that with the independent manufacture of such a headset, its cost will be a maximum of 15,000 rubles. Of course, it's no secret to anyone that firms specializing in the manufacture of cabinet furniture wind up up to 200 percent.

In our case, it turned out a little less, but the difference is noticeable. And now that you've spent a few days making a kitchen set, you can answer yourself the question: is the game really worth the candle.

The assembly service costs about 6-10% of the cost of the set, so if you have the time and some experience, then assembling the kitchen set yourself will not be particularly difficult, and you will not overpay extra money.

Before you start assembling the kitchen set yourself, you need to make sure that all work on leveling the walls, floor, finishing (including on), as well as work on connecting sockets, water supply has already been carried out and completed. After all, when the installation of the kitchen is completed, it will be difficult to carry out all these activities.

Assembly preparation

Before you assemble a kitchen set, you need to prepare the necessary set of tools:

1. Perforator, drill with a diameter of 6 and 8 mm, drill (adapter for a drill) and corresponding drills;
2. Screwdriver (MANDATORY!);
3. Electric jigsaw or hacksaw for sawing off the countertop;
4. Allen key (attached to the kit);
5. Tools: square and level, tape measure, hammer, pliers and cutter.

Advice! The missing power tool can be borrowed, but it is better to purchase. A screwdriver and a hammer drill are essential items in every home.

You will also need different types of fasteners:

• Furniture nails;
• Euroscrew;
• Mounting strip (rail) for hanging;
• Silicone based sealant;
• Ties that fasten the sections together;
• Self-tapping screws: 15-16 mm for fittings and 70 mm for hanging kitchen cabinets;
• Corners, dowels, anchor bolts (attached to the headset);
• Conductor for dowels (preferably).

If there is an assembly manual, please read it carefully. The manual lists all the details and describes how to operate. Make sure that the headset is complete and sort all the items into cabinets. Next, you will assemble your wardrobe as a designer, because most modern headsets consist of modules.

As a rule, first they assemble the lower cabinets and install a countertop on them, then they assemble and hang the upper modules, draw markings on the wall, and then the modules can be installed and hung.

In what order is the kitchen set installed? Should I hang the top sections first, or vice versa, the bottom ones? Both methods have their adherents. Many masters install the upper cabinets first so that the lower cabinets do not interfere with the installation process.

Keep in mind that the upper cabinets are mounted without facades, so their installation will be easier. In addition, this way you can check the gaps between the facades directly on the wall.

Assembling the lower modules

Do-it-yourself kitchen installation is logical to start with the assembly of cabinets installed on the floor. It is worth knowing that base cabinets are classified according to construction types, each of which has its own assembly features:

1. Assembling a cabinet with doors with your own hands is quite simple.

1. It is also not difficult to assemble a cabinet with drawers.

1. When assembling a combined cabinet with your own hands, the first task is to install the guides correctly.

Rules for assembling hinged elements

Do-it-yourself assembly of wall cabinets is carried out by analogy with the lower ones, but there are 2 significant differences:

• Installation of drawers is not performed here;
• Facades are installed only at the stage of attaching cabinets to the wall;
• In the upper corners it is necessary to hang canopies with adjustment - holes are cut out for them at the back.

Features of the assembly stage

How to assemble a kitchen with your own hands correctly? It is necessary to take into account a number of key points:

1. Installation of a cabinet under the sink is carried out without a back wall. It also needs to seal all cutouts so that nearby moisture cannot damage the chipboard structure.
2. Fixing the cabinet where the dish dryer is installed does not provide for mounting the bottom. If such a design is not possible, then it is worthwhile to provide for the fastening of a protective rubberized sheet.
3. The assembly and installation of the kitchen is done with the utmost care. The most vulnerable parts of the headset are the ends of the facades. It is not possible to restore the damaged structure.

Installing floor and wall cabinets

After assembling the kitchen set, you can proceed to the mounting stage.

First you need to mount the lower cabinets - work is carried out from the corner of the room.

Draw markings on the wall. The installation height must be such that there is at least 100 mm between the floor and the plinth of the cabinet, and the gaps between the facades are minimal.

How to hang kitchen cabinets on the wall with your own hands? In the process of assembling the kitchen, the question arises - how to correctly determine the hanging height of the upper modules.

For this, the height of the kitchen furniture is first determined - as already mentioned, it depends on the dimensions of the drawers and the level of the ceilings. The standard height between the table top and the bottom of the top drawer is 50-60 mm.

Advice! If the growth of the hostess of the kitchen is low or the upper cabinets of the headset open with closers upwards, then it is better to install the upper shelves 45 cm from the level of the countertop (but not less).

A 10 mm error is also allowed in the installation of wall cabinets on the wall - in the case when a special rail is used for fastening.

There are two ways to hang kitchen drawers with your own hands:

1. A mounting rail is used - one part of it is attached to the wall cabinet, and the second to the wall. This results in a hook-and-groove system that is easy to use and provides a secure fit. One person can hang a cabinet with such fasteners.
2. Upper cabinets can be placed on the wall and, by means of standard fastening, on furniture hinges. They are hung so that there are no gaps between the back wall and the wall. To hang the cabinet on the hinges, it is worth working together, because for one the structure will be too heavy. Since modern mounting strips are quite expensive, budget hinges are used in traditional furniture sets.

Advice! In the corner set, furniture is first fastened against one wall, and then against the other.

A few more nuances:

• If hanging cabinets is carried out on a plasterboard wall, butterfly dowels should be used. It is also allowed to install a wooden block under the GKL sheet at the installation site of the box;
• When the installation of a kitchen set is carried out on an uneven floor, then it is worth purchasing legs with adjustment in the range of 120-170 mm;
• For small kitchens, a practical solution would be to install not plinths, but drawers;
• When hanging facades, you must also observe the clearance around the perimeter - it is equal to 3 mm.

Advice! To correctly install the countertop, you need to check the planes of several cabinets at once using the building level. Do not install the countertop on uneven surfaces.

Once we have installed the countertop, we proceed to

The question of self-manufacturing a kitchen set often arises after repairs have been carried out in this room. It often happens that a kit that seems to be suitable in terms of cost and design does not fit into the actual dimensions of the kitchen. There are a lot of proposals for the manufacture of headsets to order in our time, but the cost is very considerable. After evaluating the prices of furniture, as well as their financial capabilities, some owners come to the conclusion that they can save a decent amount if they build a kitchen (hereinafter, we mean its furniture content) on their own.

If you have at least minimal experience in working with carpentry tools, in processing wood-based materials, then mounting the desired structure yourself according to your personal project is a completely realistic task. with your own hands it can be assembled from finished parts made by the workshop according to a specific drawing, or made from scratch from natural wood and furniture panels of various types.

Why is it better to make your own kitchen?

The objective reasons to independently make a kitchen according to your own sketches and drawings are as follows:

• It is possible to create furniture cabinets and shelves that are ideal for a particular room in terms of its parameters and configuration. In addition, by creating a kitchen sketch, you can immediately determine the convenient location of all kitchen accessories, the number and shape of furniture.

• Considerable cost savings are achieved, since the finished headset will cost significantly more, although it can be made from the same material that you can choose yourself. Everything is understandable - in addition to the material, you have to pay for the work of craftsmen, transportation costs, a whole list of all sorts of other taxes and deductions known only to accountants. All this is included in one way or another in the selling price of the kit.
• The exclusivity of the design of the furniture set is ensured.
• It would probably not be an exaggeration to say that for most real owners (we will not take into account pathological lazy people), such independent furniture making becomes a very exciting activity, an opportunity to show their skills and creativity. Well, the finished kitchen environment, made by hand, is an indispensable source of pride.

As you can see, the reasons for making a kitchen set with your own hands are quite enough. Well, their totality should generally dispel all doubts. Naturally, if the owner is not a perfect layman in these matters.

Creating a project for a future kitchen

The first step is a sketch

You should start creating a kitchen set with a project, which is best done in the form of a sketch, and then an exact drawing. The sketch will help to visualize how the kitchen will look like, and the drawing with the dimensions taken for it from the location of the headset will become a guide both when ordering material for further work, and for assembling parts into a single structure.

The sketch takes into account the features of the kitchen and the possibility of placing furniture in it. If a project is being developed for a standard kitchen of a multi-storey building, then the most popular options are either a kitchen wall installed in one line.

Taking measurements and taking into account design features

In order to meet all the necessary requirements when creating a project, careful measurements of the kitchen installation area should be made. When conducting them, the following parameters of the room are taken into account:

• The length and height of the walls along which it is planned to install a kitchen set.
• The length of the wall from the front door to the corner of the room.
• The distance from the window opening to the wall.
• When taking measurements, it is necessary to separately indicate at what distance from adjacent walls there are communications - sewer and water pipes, as well as a gas main.

Knowing these parameters, you can move on to determining the dimensions of furniture cabinets, which should both fit into the designated area and be comfortable to use.

An example of a sketch-project of a corner kitchen with dimensions

The following parameters are standard for a kitchen set:

• For floor cabinets:

- height - 850 mm;

– depth can vary from 500 to 600 mm;

- width - from 300 to 800 mm.

• Wall cabinets may vary slightly in size, as their parameters depend on the height of the ceiling and the preferences of the kitchen owners:

- their standard height is 850 mm, but it can be increased to 900 mm if you plan to raise them to the ceiling, or reduced to 800 ÷ 700 mm;

- depth of cabinets - 300 mm;

- the width, as a rule, corresponds to the width of the floor cabinets planned under the wall cabinets - this way they look more beautiful in one "ensemble". Although this requirement is optional.

In addition, when drawing up a drawing, the following factors must be taken into account:

• The location and size of the sink, as well as the fact that under it you will have to provide a separate cabinet or section of the countertop.
• On both sides of the sink there should be cabinets (free areas of the countertop) with a width of at least 300 mm. Their surface will add comfort during the operation of the sink, and the cabinets themselves will serve to store kitchen utensils. In addition, one of the cabinets can be used for the installation of a washing machine or dishwasher.
• The top of the headset must include at least two sections.
• Above the hob, it is necessary to provide a place for.
• When drawing up a plan, you should also immediately indicate the location of the refrigerator if it is installed in one of the lines of the headset.

Optimum distance between sink and stove

• It is very important to observe the distance between the sink and the hob, since according to the standards it should be at least 450 ÷ 500 mm.

• The distance between the hob and the hood should be 750 mm for a gas stove and 650 mm for an electric stove. This will ensure both a good removal of rising vapors and proper operation safety.

A sketch of the kitchen can be drawn by hand on a sheet in a cage, which will help to maintain the proportions of the actual dimensions of the headset placement area. A more "advanced" option is to use one of the 3D modeling computer programs, for example, "PRO 100". In the latter case, it will be possible to take into account every millimeter of the allotted area.

On the network you can find a lot of interesting applications that allow you to plan the placement of furniture and get ready-made drawings of each of the details.

If the sketch is drawn up manually, then it is additionally necessary to make furniture drawings. In these graphic documents, the exact dimensions of the structure are affixed, since all its components will be made according to them.

If drawing up a drawing seems to be an impossible task due to inexperience, then you can use one of the options presented on the Internet. Surely, if you wish, you can find options for both typical kitchens of the main series of high-rise buildings, and for non-standard kitchen premises.

When choosing a specific project, you must immediately take into account your ability to manufacture individual structural elements. For example, shelves that have curvilinear shapes, since this will require not only a special tool, but also sufficient skills to work with it.

Chipboard cutting map

Based on the drawn up drawing, it is necessary to draw up a chipboard cutting map. It will help determine the amount of material needed, reflect the distribution on the sheets of all the blanks necessary for the headset.

To create this graphic document, you need to know the standard parameters of chipboard boards on which the details of the kitchen set will be projected.

Today, chipboard plates with a polished and laminated surface are on sale, having different thicknesses and linear dimensions.

An example of a map for cutting a chipboard sheet to the dimensions of furniture blanks

Chipboard boards can have a standard thickness of 8,10,12,16, 18, 22, 25, 28, 32 and 38 mm. For the walls and shelves of the floor part of the headset, most often material is chosen with a thickness of 16 ÷ 20 mm, and for wall cabinets, chipboard of 16 mm is suitable. If desired, you can choose a greater thickness of the sheets.

Chipboard sheets of various thicknesses

The linear dimensions of sanded boards are usually 2440×1830 or 2750×1830 mm, and the laminated material - 2800×2070 and 2620×1830 mm. The parameters of the plates are designed for standard blanks for furniture, so you can choose options from them that will be cut with a minimum amount of waste.

An example of laminated chipboard worktops for a desktop

Worktop for the working area of ​​the kitchen is purchased separately. The choice of the consumer is provided with different models according to the options for external design and thickness. The recommended thickness is 38 mm, especially in the area where it is planned to insert the hob or sink. However, judging by the reviews of both the craftsmen and the owners of the kitchens, even cheaper high-quality countertops with a thickness of 28 mm serve quite successfully for years without requiring any replacement.

But to make a decision (in a fit of unrestrained savings) to make a countertop simply from an ordinary chipboard sheet, even if a large load is not planned on it, is unacceptable. Features of the operation of this section require a special wear-resistant coating and a special configuration of the front edge, which does not allow the accumulation of moisture from drops flowing from the table. A well-made one is completely closed on all sides, and only the end sections remain unprotected, which should also receive the necessary processing, but already when assembling furniture.

You can draw up a drawing of a slab cutting map yourself or use a computer program for this purpose. Many companies involved in the sale of furniture chipboard (MDF) provide a free service for compiling such maps, on the basis of which cutting is then carried out.

Both wall and floor cabinets can have separate or common walls, depending on how they will be located in the headset.

The lower, floor-mounted part of the headset is most often used by common walls that divide the cabinets into departments. Thus, after fastening the blanks, this part becomes non-separable. However, if it is planned to retain the ability to rearrange kitchen furniture, then each cabinet should be assembled separately. But in this case, of course, the cost of material for blanks will increase.

So, in the chipboard or MDF cutting map, according to the developed drawing and the dimensions of the structural parts, the following parts of the structure should be placed:

• Side walls headset.
• Dividing walls that delimit the common floor and hinged structure into separate cabinets.
• Shelf preparations.
• Back walls. They are best made from a lighter material - it can be fiberboard or thin 3-4 mm plywood.
• front doors.

On the cutting map, it is best to put down, in addition to the dimensions of the parts, their numbering or names. So it will be easier to navigate when cutting plates and during assembly.

The tabletop is selected separately. Its length should correspond to the length of the floor part of the headset, since the hob and sink, as a rule, cut into its surface, and the washing machine and dishwasher are installed under it.

In addition to furniture blanks, you must purchase the following parts to assemble the structure:

• An edge of the corresponding chipboard color, which is used to form the front ends of the walls and shelves of the headset before assembling it.
• Fittings: hinges and handles.
• Camouflage strip for the gap between two parts of the table top and end caps.
• Drawers will require skids (sliding mechanisms).

• Furniture metal fasteners and wooden dowels.
• Metal or plastic corners for fixing perpendicular parts.
• Adjustable legs, with which it will be possible to set the floor part of the headset strictly horizontally.

If you plan to make doors that open in a special way, for example, by lifting up or folding, they will require special mechanisms - there is no shortage of such products in our time.

Now, knowing what parts and materials will be needed for the manufacture and assembly of a kitchen set, you can go to a specialized furniture materials store, where you can usually immediately order a cut of slabs according to the presented cutting map. If desired, and the presence of a special tool, cutting and processing edges can be done independently. But you also need to be able to do this, to have an appropriate high-quality tool. That is, it is better not to take risks and entrust this process to professionals working on high-precision equipment.

Carrying out installation and assembly operations

Tools for the job

To assemble the blanks into a single structure, you will need tools, some of them are in every house, others will have to be bought. But they will definitely come in handy later on for other repair or construction work.

So, from the tools you need to prepare:

• An electric drill and a set of drill bits for wood, including those confirmed for furniture screws.
• Bits of different sizes for a screwdriver, including hex.
• Construction square.
• Level.
• Clamps, at least 4 pieces.
• Pliers and hammer.
• Scissors.
• Syringe gun for applying liquid nails and sealant.
• Iron for gluing the edge.

Assembling a kitchen set

The most difficult thing is to start the assembly process, because the masters who do not have experience in this work do not know where to start. When the first steps are done, then the process will go faster. In fact, the blanks are a kind of "constructor", from which it is necessary to assemble the kitchen.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	The first thing to be done is to understand the blanks, breaking them down by size, guided by the project drawing, which also contains all the parameters of the headset. After the parts are distributed into piles, it is recommended to sign them, indicating their belonging - walls, shelves, etc. Such preparatory measures will greatly simplify the work.
	After cutting, the ends of the panels facing the facade, as well as intended for cabinet doors, must be pasted over with a special edge tape that has a color that is in harmony with the main shade of the headset. The tape is fixed with a heated iron. When the tape is heated, it should protrude slightly beyond the edges of the panel. After the material has cooled, this excess must be immediately carefully cut off with a sharp knife. For this purpose, a regular clerical knife with a new blade is suitable.
	The process begins with the assembly of the floor part of the headset. Therefore, it is necessary to take the lower panels of the structure, and immediately fix adjustable legs on them, if they are provided for by the project. To do this, the panels are marked with the installation sites of such supports. Then the legs are applied to the marked points, and points are marked on the panel with a pencil through the holes provided for fasteners. Further, non-through holes for fasteners are drilled along the marks. It is best to put the legs on the glue first, and then additionally fasten them with self-tapping screws. The fastening of the legs can occur in different ways - this one depends on the selected model of the part. The legs should be attached to all bottom panels.
	The next step is to assemble the walls of one of the cabinets. To make them stand at right angles to each other, you can use perforated corners made of metal 2 mm thick, so the connection must have a certain rigidity. Of course, it is recommended to check these corners beforehand - how perpendicular their shelves are. You can come up with another "conductor" that will help you set the two mating panels exactly at right angles. The corners are fixed at the top and bottom at the junction of the panels with the help of clamps.
	Then, the fastened walls must be twisted with screws, for which holes-nests are drilled using a comfortable drill. The drill is designed to form a hole, which has different diameters at different levels, which are necessary for this euro screw. Due to this socket configuration, the screw will tightly hold the two panels, and its head will enter the chipboard flush with the wall surface. You can, of course, use conventional drills, but you have to constantly rearrange them, and the work will go much more slowly. And a special drill is not so expensive, especially since it will have plenty of work when assembling the headset.
	The panels must be fastened at three points by drilling nests with an indent from the upper and lower edges of 50 mm, as well as in the middle of the joined blanks. To accurately mark the location of the hole, 8 mm should be retreated from the side edge, with a chipboard thickness of 16 mm and 9 mm, with a panel thickness of 18 mm. To screw in a furniture screw, a hexagonal bit nozzle is installed in the screwdriver. All chipboard panels are fastened together in the same way.
	To make it clearer, the illustration shows the principle of connecting two perpendicular parts with confirmations.
	The bottom panel of the cabinet is also first fixed to the side walls with clamps, and then twisted with furniture screws.
	Another way of mutual fixation of panels can be wooden chopsticks - dowels with a diameter of 8 mm. They are installed in slots drilled at the end of one and along the edge of the other panel. Dowels are carefully hammered into these holes, previously smeared with glue. This mounting method is more complex and requires perfectly accurate marking of the holes to be drilled.
	In order for the marking to be accurate, after gluing the dowels into the lower end of the wall, it is laid with a shift on the bottom panel, leveled and tightened with clamps. After that, on the bottom panel, focusing on the already installed dowels, mark the points at which holes are drilled, with a diameter and depth corresponding to the size of the fasteners. Then, the holes are filled with glue and the side wall of the cabinet is docked. In order for the panels to be assembled exactly at a right angle, metal corners should be fixed on them, just as in the first version, using clamps. You can remove them after the glue has dried.
	After the walls are fastened to the bottom panel, it is nailed with small nails, stapler staples, or a back panel made of fiberboard or thin plywood is screwed onto small self-tapping screws.
	In the upper part, the side walls are connected to each other by two narrow boards, which will give rigidity to the design of the pedestal and will be the basis for fixing the table top. They are installed on the inside of the walls and are also screwed with furniture confirmatory screws. They will need 2 pieces for each of the fixed sides.
	If a cabinet is assembled for drawers, then before fastening the walls to the bottom panel, their inner surfaces are marked out, and according to the markings, sliding mechanisms are installed on them (they may have a different design). It is clear that the installation of these guides on opposite walls must be strictly symmetrical. Of course, this process can be carried out in an already assembled cabinet, but this is inconvenient and rather difficult to do - both dark and cramped.
	If it is planned to fix front doors on the cabinet, then for the installation of hinges it is necessary to mark and equip the landing nests for them in advance. To drill the mounting holes, a special cutter of the desired diameter is used. When marking, it is necessary to observe the distance from the edge of the panel to the edge of the seat - it should be 5 mm.
	To ensure that the hinges are installed evenly and the doors are not skewed, the wall and the door are laid on a flat surface, and the markings for arranging the mounting slots and mounting holes are made on them at the same time. A socket of the required diameter is drilled on the side wall, the corresponding part of the loop is installed in it. Then, focusing on it, the attachment points of the reciprocal mounting pad on the door are marked. Holes for self-tapping screws are drilled along the markings. After that, the hinges are screwed on and their operation is checked. Further, they can be temporarily dismantled, and permanently installed after the cabinet is assembled.
	This photo shows the installation of the assembled cabinets in the overall design. In this case, each of the floor cabinets has its own walls, but it is possible that the walls act as partitions in the overall structure. However, it must be borne in mind that in the latter case, a higher load will fall on the partitions, so many shelves and drawers are not recommended. The assembled structure is leveled, if necessary, adjusting the height of the support legs.
	Further, front doors can be finally fixed on the walls of cabinets (cabinets). It will not be difficult to install them, since the necessary holes have already been prepared for their fastening. The door handles are screwed on.
	The next step is to install a worktop on evenly exposed and fastened together cabinets. It can be solid or have different connecting joints - even or diagonal, depending on the layout of the kitchen set. Having prepared and adjusted the parts of the countertop, mark out the areas where the sink and hob will be embedded.
	The edges of the sink, depending on its model, can be installed on top of the countertop or flush with it. The illustration shows a variant of a built-in kitchen sink. Marking the window for it is best done according to the pattern, which manufacturers often include with the sink. If there is no cutting pattern, then you should do it yourself: put the bowl on a sheet of cardboard and trace its outline with a pencil.
	The opening for the kitchen sink is cut using an electric jigsaw. First, a through hole is drilled on the marking line in the tabletop - it is necessary for inserting a jigsaw file. From the outer marking line, some craftsmen prefer to fix the masking tape, which will prevent the edges from chipping and will be a good guide when working. In the same way, a hole for the hob is marked and cut out.
	An important nuance. In a cut-out opening for a sink or hob, the end walls are completely defenseless against moisture penetration. And water that has seeped into the chipboard and penetrated into its structure can cause it to swell and deform. Therefore, experienced craftsmen strongly recommend performing another operation. A strip of silicone sealant is applied to the cut ends of the opening, and then distributed so that the entire cut is densely covered with this compound. After that, without waiting for the sealant to cool, you can proceed to install the sink or hob.
	Fixing the kitchen sink in the countertop window can be done in different ways, depending on its model. Most often, such sinks are attached to the back of the countertop using special adjustable hook brackets that are included in the delivery.
	On the underside of the support sides of the sink, before installing it in the prepared opening, it is necessary to apply a layer of sealant, which will close the gaps formed between the sink and the countertop and prevent water from flowing.
	Before the final installation of the table top, its cut ends must be closed with special aluminum plates that exactly repeat the shape of the panel cross section. These pads come in left and right. A strip of silicone sealant is applied to the end before installing the lining ...
	... which is then spread over the entire surface in an even layer. This is easy to do with a finger dipped in soapy water.
	After that, the overlay is installed, set exactly along the edges and fixed with self-tapping screws - for this, holes are provided on it. Everything, the butt is protected. Similarly - on the other edge of the countertop.
	Further, the tabletop is installed on the assembled floor structure of the headset and fixed with self-tapping screws from their inside through the crossbars, which were discussed above.
	Of course, the countertop is always striving to be made solid, that is, consisting of one piece. The length of standard panels (up to 4000 mm) usually allows this. On a straight section, it is best to do without joints. But if the headset has an angular configuration, then you will have to make a perpendicular joint. The gaps between the individual parts of the tabletop are closed with a bar specially designed for this purpose. Installing the bar - by analogy with the end. But in this case, this connecting part already has a somewhat named configuration, which ensures the docking of the rounded front side with the cut end side.
	You can decorate the edge of the tabletop adjacent to the wall in different ways. Some prefer to frame the worktop with a special skirting board, others with a strip of the same material from which the countertop is made (as shown in the illustration). Still others, even as an apron, are fixed on the wall with a whole tabletop panel with a figured edge up, joining it with a horizontal surface.
	To install wall cabinets, special adjustable hangers can be used, on which you can move the cabinet along the metal profile, and also draw it closer to the wall, removing an unnecessary gap between the surfaces.
	To fix the hangers on the cabinet, it is necessary to cut slots-nests for them in its back wall. Brackets are inserted into them and screwed from behind to its side wall.
	The brackets fixed on the cabinet are inserted into the profile, which is pre-fixed on the dowels to the wall along the entire length of the headset and, of course, is aligned strictly horizontally. Thanks to the profile, all cabinets will be located on the wall at the same level, and they can be slightly moved, if necessary, during the final installation of the entire headset.
	The table drawers are assembled according to the same principle as the floor cabinets and wall cabinets. The difference lies in the fact that four walls of the structure are fastened together. To facilitate the process, it is recommended to mark the workpieces, that is, on the parts to be fastened, mark the area of ​​\u200b\u200btheir junction, setting one of them with the end face to the edge of the other, and then draw a line with a pencil.
	Further, in the marked area with a thin drill, it is necessary to mark two holes, exactly in the middle between the edge and the drawn line, departing from the upper and lower edges of the workpiece by 20 ÷ 25 mm. The same process must be done with another part of the box - these will be its front and rear walls.
	Further, the parts with drilled holes are pressed against the end of the side walls, and through the drilled holes they are fastened together with furniture self-tapping screws.
	When all four walls of the cabinet are interconnected, the bottom of the structure, made of fiberboard or plywood, is nailed with nails 20 mm long. At the same time, the resulting box will be "automatically" aligned strictly in the shape of a rectangle. If you plan to store fairly heavy kitchen utensils in the drawer, then the bottom can be screwed with 3 × 20 mm self-tapping screws in increments of about 50 mm.
	Drawer guides are usually attached to the lower side edge of the drawer. But there are other designs of such skids. In any case, they must be combined with the mating parts of the mechanism, fixed on the walls of the cabinet cabinet.
	The bottom drawer is installed first. After the operation of the sliding mechanism is checked, the drawer is removed from the body for mounting the front panel and handle on it. The width of the front lining must be equal to the width of the pedestal body. First, the location of the handle is marked, then the facade is fixed on the front wall of the box with the help of clamps, and according to the marking, through holes are drilled through both panels.
	Further, two holes are drilled from the inside of the box, which should be located at a distance of 80 ÷ 100 mm from the side edges. Holes in the wall of the drawer should be through, and in the front panel they should be deepened by 8 ÷ 10 mm. The hole diameter should be 8 mm. Then, glue is poured into the hole, and wooden dowels are carefully hammered. At the last stage, a handle is screwed to the box with screws from the inside, which will pull the wall and facade together. Clamps are best removed after the glue has dried.
	When the bottom drawer is completely ready and installed, the same process is carried out with the drawer that will be located above it. But the facade panel, of course, is fixed on it, taking into account the height of the facade of the lower drawer. In the same way, the installation of other retractable parts of the structure is carried out.

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As can be seen from the description, when assembling blanks into a single set, you will have to face a fairly large number of small difficult nuances. But, at the same time, this work is extremely interesting.

In addition, by making the kitchen yourself, you can significantly save the family budget. To verify this, it is necessary, just for the sake of interest, to find out the cost of everything necessary for independent work and calculate the purchase budget, compare it with the cost of the finished headset.

Find out how to do it in a special article on our portal.

As a bonus, we offer you to watch an interesting video. It shows the process of self-manufacturing of an original kitchen set, which is completely simple even for a novice master, in which only natural lumber is used.

Video: Do-it-yourself kitchen - no chipboard, only board and timber