Original roofing and designer roofs: How to make a dormer attic window on the roof of a cottage for visibility and ventilation. Schemes of truss systems of dormer windows of various types for the roof of an attic or attic with visual drawings and photos.

There are many options for building roof structures. Most often, both in civil engineering and in the private sector, sloping roofs are equipped for administrative and residential buildings. They have a number of advantages and are often equipped with dormer windows, which are quite possible to make with your own hands. Their shape and location may differ from each other, but they all perform the same functions.

Purpose

• Lighting of the under-roof space (mansard or attic space).
• Its good ventilation.
• In some cases - direct access to the roof for its preventive inspection and repair work.
• They often play the role of an integral part of the entire architectural composition, and sometimes even an emergency exit.

Modern dormer windows are not only small houses with their own walls and floors, but also have many other design options.

According to their performance, they are divided into:

• with a flat, with a one- or two-slope, hip roof;
• panoramic;
• attic (built-in);
• all-glass (“antiaircraft lamp”).

The window itself can be of various shapes: round, square, rectangular, triangular, oval. But, regardless of its design, during the construction it is necessary to adhere to certain generally accepted standards. If it is planned to equip a dormer window, then this should be taken into account at the stage of building construction.

What to foresee

The steepness of the slope

To prevent the penetration of moisture into the attic (mansard) in the window area, it is necessary to ensure its natural flow from the roof. Therefore, the slope must be at least 5 0 for flat roofs and from 15 0 and above for pitched roofs.

When determining the steepness, it is necessary to focus on the climate in the place of residence (precipitation intensity, prevailing winds, the location of the house). Therefore, you need to choose the most compromise option.

form

The most "favorable" is triangular. This configuration of the window opening is attractive because the "contact line" of the frame of the dormer window house with the roof is much smaller than that of a square or rectangular profile. It is here that the penetration of moisture into the under-roof space is most likely. The choice of a triangular-shaped window significantly reduces the amount of mandatory work on waterproofing this problem area.

At the same time, it must be taken into account that this form of window opening will somewhat reduce the illumination inside the attic space. Therefore, it is advisable to bring the facade of the window in line with the wall of the building.

Window arrangement

Depending on the size of the roof, its configuration and the general architectural design, window openings can be located either in one line (horizontally) or in 2 rows (staggered). When determining their number, it should be taken into account that experts advise observing the condition: the total width of all openings should be more than half the length of the edge of the roof slope.

The distance from the attic floor to the lower row of windows is assumed to be 1 m. Consider the construction technology of a dormer window using the example of a triangular profile.

Operating procedure

By analogy with the arrangement of the roof of the whole house, all the necessary materials are also laid (steam and waterproofing, insulation). The line of contact between the frame of the dormer window house and the roof is additionally sealed with special corners, clamping strips, and the like. Self-expanding tapes, mastic compounds and various sealants are excellent.

Knowing all these installation features, you can build a dormer window of any profile. However, everywhere there are nuances.

Windows that have become popular recently give much more light. For their installation, it is not necessary to build a separate frame, since they lie in the same plane with the roof of the house and are attached to its truss system using special plates. But they are recommended to be installed provided that the slope of the roof provides a good runoff of water from its surface (about 15 0 - 20 0).

However, self-production is impractical, since errors in the calculations are quite possible. It is better to buy a ready-made plastic window and install it in place. This design is rotary, its axis of rotation lies in the horizontal plane and is located in the middle.

About 15% of all heat loss of any building occurs through windows. Therefore, when determining their size, it is necessary to make an “adjustment” for the climate and the location of the building.

If the viewing window is equipped on the roof of an already built house, then its frame is fastened to the rafters. But DON'T MAKE INSERTS!!! Only staples, nails, overhead elements (metal tapes, corners). Otherwise, the strength of the entire supporting structure will decrease.

The natural lighting of the attic space will be the better, the higher the dormer window is mounted.
We should not forget about the need for high-quality preparation of wood - its drying and impregnation with special compounds.

The dormer window on the roof is nothing more than an architectural structure on a slope that performs certain functions. Another name for this element is lucarna (from the Latin lucerna - a lamp, the French spelling is lucarne). The frame of the lucarne is usually located in the same plane as the façade wall, and can often serve as its continuation.

Initially, such windows were conceived as a way to ventilate the space under the roof. But, gradually, they became an important element of architecture, enlivening the overall perception. At a time when attics began to be rebuilt into residential attics, lucarnes became a source of natural light.

Types of dormer windows

The main types of dormer windows that can be found are presented in the following table:

gable	Shed
Shed	hip
flat french	Arched with glazing of the entire opening
triangular	Arched
Arched	built-in
With side walls and pediment outside the facade	With side walls and a pediment in the plane of the facade

Based on the main types, we highlight the most common:

• Flat Roof Lucarna. For such a window, a drain is provided, so it is made with a roof slope of 5 to 15 °.
• Quadrangular window with pitched roof. The main difference with the previous version is that it has an inclination angle of 15° and above. The roof of such lucarnes can be rectangular, end or in the form of a trapezoid.
• gable lucarne. In Germany, such a window was called a "dwarf's house".
• triangular dormer window.
• semicircular window. It has various names: “frog mouth”, “bat”, “bull's eye”, “pike window”, the difference of which lies mainly in the degree of smoothness of the roof wave. "Bat" - has a smooth wave, "bull's eye" - has a steeper wave and an oval window. The curved shape of the side walls allows them to harmoniously fit into the roof and give the whole building a special, unusual appearance.

Let's consider each type in more detail.

Semicircular dormer window

Let's start with a more time-consuming option, a semicircular lucarne. The bull's eye is a stylish implementation that can significantly increase the cost of work and get the least amount of daylight in the attic or attic space. On the other side of the scale - the absence of blind corners where snow could accumulate, and a good runoff of rainwater. The second main advantage is an attractive appearance. Bullish is mounted very rarely, so uniqueness is guaranteed. This roof decoration looks very beautiful, harmonious and functional.

Making a semi-circular variant greatly increases the overall cost of making a roof. This is due to additional costs for design, work of roofers and the purchase of special materials. The custom-shaped windows used are also more expensive than standard ones.

Lucarna bull's eye

The design of such a dormer window in the roof requires careful attention to detail. It is important to maintain proportions.

How to make a drawing? First of all, you need to set the length and height of the opening of the lucarne (segments ac- half length and bc). from point a a straight line is drawn perpendicular to the base and a segment is marked on it ad = ac. around the dot d draw a circle with a radius ad. On the segment ab the point of intersection with the circle is marked ( e). Next, draw a straight line from the point d through a point e to the point of intersection with the line on which the segment is located bc. Intersection point - f. Around this point, the next circle is drawn with a radius fe. tracing the curve aeb you can see the outline of a bull's eye. The other part looks similar.

The construction of the "bull's eye" is started only after the complete assembly of the truss structure. Then unnecessary elements are removed from it and wooden circles are installed (structural elements used to give it an arched shape). In this case, it is the cornice board of a semicircular dormer window. The structure of the "bull's eye" slope is formed by spacer bars, on the one hand attached to the horizontal bars between the rafters, and on the other hand resting on the gable wall. Next, the crate and the counter-crate are mounted - the basis for the finishing coating.

Two options for the bull's eye design:

	The design of curvilinear forms - circled. Curvilinear elements are made by separate templates. The upper part of the structure is covered with rigid sheathing made of flexible plywood, roofing paper and fastens the curvilinear elements of the trusses. Jumpers are installed in places of the cut rafters, transferring the load to neighboring rafters.
	Tent construction. The front wall of the lucarne is made in the same way as in the previous version of the circle. Further, rafters are laid from the lintel to the beam.

For a semicircular window, it is necessary to choose a roofing material that will evenly cover curved surfaces. Coatings made of small elements, such as slate and even straw, will be optimal. You can also use ceramic slot tiles. But, it will require higher qualification and skill during installation. The number of shingles in one row should be the same as below it. Therefore, you need to choose the right packing density in different areas.

Single dormer window

The simplest and most common form of a lucarne is a shed roof window. In the classic version, the window and the roof above it are rectangular. There are options when the top or end wall is made in the form of a trapezoid. For these structures, it is necessary that the angle of inclination of the main roof be large enough. As a rule, the roofs of dormer windows are covered with the same material as the main roof. Using tiles, it is recommended to make the upper adjoining of the window through one or two rows of tiles from the ridge. This will give a more balanced appearance and improve protection against rainwater intrusion.

Dormer window with pitched roof

One of the varieties of the considered type is a dormer window with a flat roof (with a slope of 5 - 15 °). Its main task is to let the maximum amount of light and air into the room. Drainage is carried out using a gutter.

For the first time, such lucarnes began to appear in the ancient cities of Germany for the banal reason of overpopulation. People, in order to get additional living space, began to use the reserves of the roof. A lucarna with a gable roof provided the greatest amount of space and light. In addition, they significantly change the appearance of the entire building for the better. Over time, lucarnes, along with balconies, bay windows, turrets and roof decorations, acquired great architectural significance.

For the form in question, there are about seven different names used in different parts of Germany: “saddle-shaped”, “pitched”, “roof house”, “Friesian”, “gnome house”, “lucarne”. These structures can be found on many ancient buildings and architectural monuments. In Germany, there are laws to protect the architectural appearance of the city, and when reconstructing buildings, the developer is obliged to recreate the appearance of the skylight.

Dormer window with pitched roof

Variations of execution in various styles are as follows:

• With or without a ledge.
• With or without pediment.
• With or without gutters.

The roof of such a window is most often made of the same material as the main one. Side and gable walls can be finished with various materials (slate, wood, plaster). Ideally, a gable lucarne has one window opening. The horizontal design, consisting of several windows, looks too wide and cumbersome. It is also worth considering that the angle of inclination of the rafters of the lucarne should be comparable to the angle of inclination of the main roof.

Lucarna with hip roof- This is one of the varieties of structures with a gable roof. Its front slope is usually located at the same angle as the main roof, which creates a more elegant look. This saves usable space. It is preferable to cover such lucarnes with metal, however, the use of ceramics and slate is not excluded. This type is typical for the northern regions of Germany, where hip roofs are very common in architecture.

triangular dormer window

Small triangular or, as they are also called, "acute-angled" auditory openings were originally used for ventilation or as small light sources for the attic on pitched roofs. Triangular lucarnes can often be found on historic buildings. When designing them, it is important that they are not too big or too small to fit seamlessly into the main concept. The angle of inclination should be approximately the same as the angle of inclination of the main roof. The main task of the triangular lucarne is to let as much air and light into the attic as possible, while creating additional space is not a priority. The advantage is that it can be installed at a higher level.

triangular dormer window

Having considered the main types of lucarnes, we highlight that there are no strict design rules. Their location and size depend on the individual preferences of the designer, current innovations in architecture. It is very important to decide what function the dormer window on the roof will perform - decorative or practical. In any case, the design should look harmonious in the general plan of the building, not be too close to the ridge or eaves of the roof, as well as to the gables (sides). It is necessary to maintain a minimum distance between two windows - 0.8 m. A smaller distance complicates the laying of the roofing and contributes to the formation of snow bags.

Lucarnes on the roof, of course, decorate the roof. But still, first of all, they are needed to provide natural lighting and ventilation of the attic space, cold and residential. They amaze with their diversity, not to mention the unique samples that give the structure an individuality, a color that is unique to them.

The device of dormer windows begins with the installation of its frame, but first, let's define what the design of the dormer window is like.

The SNIP for the installation of lucarens states that

• the area of ​​the dormer windows is 1/300 of the horizontal projection of the roof;
• ceiling beams, which act as a support for the roof and its frame, are laid immediately above the hatch;
• in the attic they have a cover slope of at least 35˚;
• the number of dormer windows on the roof is calculated based on the prerequisite that their total width should not be less than half the width of the attic.

The frame is performed simultaneously with the installation of the truss system. Depending on the design, it may include a crate, a ridge and rafters. In other words, this is the same roof, only in miniature.

Dormer window on the roof - triangular lucarne design

The most popular today is triangular, a characteristic feature of which is the steepness of the slopes. The roof of the pediment should not protrude from the plane formed by the outer wall of the building, in other words, the pediment wall of such a lucarne does not have a recess into the roof.

A device of this design is carried out exactly along the same axis as the underlying window. This makes it possible to perceive the roof windows as a whole with the facade of the building. The space formed under the pointed roof has a rather large height, so lucarnes with sufficiently large frames are placed on the pediment.

Nevertheless, it is not necessary to talk about increasing the useful space of the attic for such a design. This is due to the significant - about 64⁰ - steepness of its slopes.

Triangular dormer windows have a roof. She goes down to the main roof of the house to the organization of the groove. For this reason, there is no special need for waterproofing the junctions of the side walls and the roof, which greatly facilitates the waterproofing of the dormer windows themselves and the main roof of the building.

roof window frame

Dormer windows are installed on the frame. In the areas where the lucarens are located, openings are made between the rafters of the installed system. Framing is made of double or triple rafters, as they experience a significant load that exceeds the impact on any other part of the system.

In the transverse direction, in two sections, beams are mounted on the rafters: the first from below at the level of the outer wall, and the last from above - according to the existing project on the rafters, and reinforced. Vertical racks are installed on the first one and, having tied them on top with a transverse bar, a frame is obtained. The latter must be attached to the upper beam. Do this using longitudinal bars. Thus, a lucarna frame is obtained, but so far without a rafter system.

The rafter system of the dormer window is arranged in the same way as the design of the main roof. The frame elements are fixed using metal parts.

Attention

The use of fastening methods such as tie-ins and cuts is not allowed, as it leads to weakening of the rafters.

Moisture resistant materials, for example, plywood of this type. In this case, the sheathing should be located at the same level as the sheathing of the outer wall.

Valley device in the upper part of the lucarna

At first glance, the arrangement of a lucarne, which has the shape of a triangle, is quite similar to the installation of a multi-gable roof. However, in reality there are significant differences between these technologies. In particular, unlike the roof slopes, as a rule, with the same slope, the triangular opening has a roof with a slope of 60–70⁰. That is, at the junction of the roofing slopes of the main roof and the slopes of the lucarne, non-standard valleys are formed.

The device of the rafter system of the dormer window involves the installation of diagonal rafters, which serve as a support for the shortened rafter legs. For the installation of such a design, it is necessary to calculate the following parameters:

• the truss beam of the valley, that is, its length and cross section, and it must be taken into account that in each of the openings, two beams of this type are assumed, which are mirror symmetrical;
• articulation angles formed between the side walls and the ridge beam.

Phased installation of a valley (groove)

1. Using a plumb line or a long level, the intersection point of the valley and the ridge beam of the lucarne is first transferred to the floor.
2. Build a horizontal projection of such frame elements as a ridge rafter and a valley. The projection of the valley is obtained by connecting the obtained point and the corner of the wall in a straight line, the ridge beam, as a horizontal segment in the projection, will be the same segment.
3. The angle formed by the projections is determined, and the end of the valley beam in the lower part is sawn under it. Such an operation will ensure its clear abutment to the side wall of the opening.
4. The corner of this wall and the beam of the ridge are connected with a cord, pulling it tightly. Two quantities can now be accurately determined: the length of the valley beam and the required cut angle at the lower end.
5. Then the projection line of the rafter is transferred to the side wall, to its upper beam, which allows you to find out what the length of the supporting rafter should be in the lower section.
6. Having finished the measurements, they start marking the workpiece directly at the place of installation of the rafter beam: it is cut along the length, cuts are made from the transverse edges at the calculated angles and laid in place.

The device of the lower part of the lucarne

The installation of this part of the structure has its own specifics.

• Let's start with the fact that the soft roof on the underside should be invisible from the inside. Therefore, it must be hidden hidden under the side walls, which is quite simple to do.
• The gutter beam is laid on the main roof sheathing. It serves as a support for the rafters of the gable roof of the window from the underside. Determine how the support beam will be located, and its dimensions. To do this, proceed as follows:

• strictly pulling the coated cord, connect the ends of the gable on the outside and the rafters;
• beat off the line;
• having measured the support beam, cut out blanks under it;
• the side edge on the outside is cut at an angle of 64⁰.

• All rafters are actually prepared according to a single template, with the only difference being that for each of them the length required for laying in its place is selected.
• At the final stage, the roofing material is attached to the sheathing of the structure from plywood sheets.
• Sheathing usually starts in the direction from the ridge. This direction is especially important for roofs with a large slope.
• Being located at the very top, you can precisely orient the plywood sheets relative to the top edge of the ridge.
• Roofing, on the contrary, is performed from the bottom up.

When arranging windows of a more complex shape, it is recommended to use the services of professionals for the calculation and direct installation of complex junctions.

The expanded clay concrete surface is pre-cleaned, the masonry seams are processed, then it is primed. Next, the surfaces are reinforced with a mesh. The prepared solution is applied and, after drying, rubbed until ready for decoration.

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Wall surface preparation

Before plastering, dirt, dust, oil and grease stains present on the wall blocks are removed. The solution that protrudes above the surface of the masonry is knocked off.

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Seam processing

Cracks and seams are sealed with sand-cement mortar. When they are narrow and deep, they are flared to allow the material to penetrate. All recesses are aligned with the plane of the wall in order to provide the plaster with a more uniform shrinkage. The surface must be dry before the next operation.

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Primer

Before using the gypsum composition, expanded clay concrete blocks are treated with agents that improve mutual adhesion. Liquid quartz primers, polymer dispersions, as well as "concrete contact" type compositions intended for expanded clay blocks can be used. However, you can use ready-made plaster mixes that already contain additives for this purpose. Then the blocks do not need pre-priming.

Before using a cement-sand mortar to equalize the suction properties, masonry sections are treated with a solution of cement in water. It is also allowed to simply wet the expanded clay blocks with water when applying the plaster layer. Properly prepared masonry will evenly absorb water from the plaster solution, which will keep it even.

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Plaster mesh installation

The use of sand-cement mortar (up to 10 mm thick) does not imply mandatory reinforcement. However, when the plaster layer is thicker than 1.5 cm, it is better to stuff a flat galvanized mesh. Fastening is carried out on self-tapping screws, which are installed in dowels in holes made in the masonry after 20 - 30 cm.

The mesh is pressed with thin washers under the heads of the screws. A relatively thin layer of plaster coating makes it possible to use fiberglass mesh (density 200 g/m2, cell 10x10 or 5x5 mm). It is advisable to put it before plastering with gypsum mortar.

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Solution preparation

Preparation of plaster

The ready-to-use solution should have the consistency of liquid mashed potatoes. Plasticizers will facilitate its application. Also, especially in gypsum plaster, components should be added that increase adhesion to the base. should provide the masonry with moisture resistance, have high strength, attach well to the base, dampen minor shrinkage changes in geometry and frost resistance.

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Application

Before starting, vertical beacons are attached to the solution and leveled with a step convenient for using the two-meter rule. For the first layer, the mixture is thrown onto the masonry with a trowel and smoothed out with a rule that moves along the lighthouses slightly to the right - to the left and from bottom to top. After 6 - 7 hours, the beacons are removed from the wall, and the 2nd finishing thin layer is applied, eliminating all remaining irregularities.

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Drying

The solutions dry quickly enough, as they dry outward. The plaster forms a smooth, even surface, from under which the relief of the claydite-concrete base blocks does not show through.

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Finishing

As it sets, the finish layer is rubbed with a grater. Complete drying of the cement-sand coating gives rise to finishing: priming with painting, decorative puttying, priming under wallpaper, tiles, porcelain stoneware, etc. Gypsum plaster creates a surface almost ready for decorative finishing (wallpaper, painting). The outer surfaces of the building, covered with plaster, should immediately be covered with facade paint, which will protect them from moisture.

The procedure for work with insulation

In order to insulate expanded clay concrete walls on your own, you should strictly adhere to the technology of work. The process consists of several stages: surface preparation, preparation of the mortar, application of the adhesive composition on the boards, installation of insulation, creation of a vapor barrier layer, reinforcement, and cladding.

Materials and tools

For work you will need:

• insulation;
• fiberglass facade mesh;
• primer;
• adhesive composition for insulation;
• putty;
• drill with a nozzle for mixing the solution;
• containers for the preparation of glue and putty;
• cuvette and brush for applying a primer;
• construction level;
• spatulas - narrow, wide, serrated;
• dowels are umbrella-shaped;
• construction knife;
• mounting foam;
• roulette;
• vapor barrier material (membrane);
• construction tape.

Depending on which cladding method is chosen, other materials will also be needed: brick, siding or facade plaster.

Training

The surface is cleaned of debris, dust, dirt. Apply a layer of primer, wait until it dries, proceed to the application of plaster. The wall is primed again to ensure high-quality adhesion of the insulation to the surface.

The next stage in the process of insulating walls from expanded clay blocks is the preparation of a solution

Today, a large number of adhesive compositions are produced, and when choosing, you should pay attention that it is suitable for the selected insulation. The solution is prepared, focusing on the instructions on the package.

Application of the composition and installation of plates

The adhesive must be applied using a notched trowel, distributing a thin layer over the entire surface of the wall. There should be no empty lots. After that, the composition is applied to the plate itself - around the perimeter and in the center.

Installation starts from the bottom of the wall, go sequentially around the perimeter of the building. With this method, all the plates in the first row will have time to firmly fix, and the load from those installed above will not move them. The evenness of the position of each plate is checked using the building level. The second and subsequent rows are performed with a shift of half the length of the plate. To do this, cut the slab in half using a construction knife.

If in some places the sheets do not fit tightly to each other, the space is filled with mounting foam.

Additional fixing and installation of vapor barrier

After the adhesive solution has hardened (about a day later), the insulation is additionally fixed to the expanded clay concrete with dowels. They are driven in along the perimeter of the plates and in the center.

When using mineral or basalt wool, a vapor barrier layer is required to protect the material from getting wet. For this purpose, special membrane films are used, which also protect from the wind. The film is fixed by placing the strips vertically. In this case, each next strip should overlap the previous one by at least 10 cm. The joints are glued with construction tape.

Reinforcement

Proceed to the installation of reinforcing mesh. It is attached vertically. Using a tape measure, measure the height of the wall, cut off a piece of mesh of the desired length. Apply plaster to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe insulation, press the mesh into it. This must be done quickly before the plaster has hardened. In order to level the surface of the plaster at the same time as pressing the mesh, it is recommended to use a facade spatula for work.

Finishing

Cladding after the insulation of expanded clay walls can be done using brickwork, siding installation or using plaster.

The wall is plastered after the composition layer on which the reinforcing mesh is fixed has completely dried out. After that, the surface is primed again, they wait until the wall dries, then they start applying the starting and finishing compositions. The final stage is painting the facade.

The second option is to install siding. In this case, the reinforcing mesh is not required, the cladding is installed directly on the slabs. Since the "wet" method does not require the installation of battens, the installation of siding will require the installation of anchors to which the slats will be attached.

Why is brick cladding less popular than the "wet" method? She needs to create a foundation and waterproof it. This entails additional financial and time costs.

It is necessary to insulate the walls of a building built of expanded clay concrete blocks - this not only reduces heat loss, but also lengthens the life of the house. The cost of the materials that will be required is affordable, and the work itself is quite possible to carry out on its own.

The technology of applying plaster of claydite-concrete walls

It is not difficult to do the plastering of walls from expanded clay concrete blocks with your own hands, it is important to properly prepare the surface and follow the instructions. . Prepare the base - thoroughly clean the surface of dust and dirt, remove debris, remove oil stains, if any

It is necessary to check the interblock seams and knock down the protruding solution;
Inspect the surface for cracks, seal all found cracks, chips, holes and seams between the blocks with cement mortar. Leave the surface until the solution is completely dry.
Priming - the choice and method of priming depends on the type of plaster. For cement-sand mortar, priming is not a mandatory step. You can get by with plain water, which is applied to the blocks immediately before the plaster. When using gypsum plaster, it is required to prime the surface with concrete contact or quartz primer. For acrylic and silicate plasters, special solutions are also used.

• Prepare the base - thoroughly clean the surface of dust and dirt, remove debris, remove oil stains, if any. It is necessary to check the interblock seams and knock down the protruding solution;
• Inspect the surface for cracks, seal all found cracks, chips, holes and seams between the blocks with cement mortar. Leave the surface until the solution is completely dry.
• Priming - the choice and method of priming depends on the type of plaster. For cement-sand mortar, priming is not a mandatory step. You can get by with plain water, which is applied to the blocks immediately before the plaster. When using gypsum plaster, it is required to prime the surface with concrete contact or quartz primer. For acrylic and silicate plasters, special solutions are also used.

• Surface reinforcement - reinforcement is required if the plaster layer exceeds 1.5 centimeters. Experts suggest using a reinforcing mesh or fiberglass mesh, the structure is attached to self-tapping screws.
• Application of the solution - the prepared solution is applied in two layers. Before starting work, it is necessary to fix vertical beacons, by which you can navigate in the future. The first layer of plaster is thrown onto the surface with a trowel and carefully leveled by the rule along the lighthouses. The resulting surface is left for 6 hours until completely dry, then all beacons are removed and a finishing layer is applied.

With a layer thickness of up to 15 mm, reinforcement is not required.

Plaster is an important stage in construction, it extends the life of the structure, protects the walls from moisture and temperature extremes.

Construction from expanded clay concrete blocks. plaster finish inside and out

The production of expanded clay concrete blocks is very simple and cheap. The production of the block does not require special and expensive equipment. Expanded clay concrete can be easily produced under conditions. This property should reduce the price of such a block, but, as is usually the case in our consumer society, it is not the end consumer (you and I) who benefits from the reduction, and even receives from this not quite the benefits as it might seem. The main beneficiary is the seller, but that, as they say, is a completely different story.

Using heavier (dense) blocks, it is quite possible to build high-rise buildings.

When building a wall from expanded clay concrete blocks, it is not necessary to arrange a vapor barrier, because the vapor permeability of expanded clay concrete is quite high. It is quite comparable with the vapor permeability of a brick. A little less.

When using expanded clay concrete blocks in private construction, it is possible, and even necessary, to use lighter blocks. The thermal conductivity of such blocks is already comparable to that of wood, and the strength allows the construction of a two or even three-story house with a ceiling of reinforced concrete hollow slabs. Thus, expanded clay concrete will allow the total weight of the house to be less and at the same time save on the complexity of the foundation and insulation.

In a wall of expanded clay concrete blocks, ordinary dowels with no less ordinary screws are easily held. In this way, expanded clay concrete blocks compare favorably with foam-aerated concrete, in which neither dowels nor screws are held, and it is necessary to use fasteners specially designed for these materials.

In our country, there are quite a few regions where there is an abundance of minerals such as limestone and clay. Obviously, in such regions there are and successfully operate the production of cement, expanded clay and expanded clay concrete. Before buying expanded clay concrete on the market, you can look around and suddenly find out that there is a plant in the immediate vicinity of your construction site where you can buy the same building material much cheaper and without intermediary markups. Proavda, this situation is becoming less and less possible due to the development of our economy, in which the end consumer is in the most disadvantageous position. But I digress again.

Difficulties/Dangers/Disadvantages

As I often say, it seems to have become one of my favorite sayings, any good idea can be driven to the point of absurdity by ugly execution. So it is with blocks. Non-compliance with technology, the use of high-quality raw materials, of course, to reduce the cost of products, suppression of characteristics, all this creates difficulties for private developers.

When buying blocks, carefully look at how long their dimensions are. Check the block in your hand to determine, at least approximately, whether you are being cheated with density. For example, a block of 20x20x40 cm is 16,000 cubic centimeters. There are a million cubic centimeters in one cubic meter. We divide a million by 16 thousand and get 62 and a half blocks in one cubic meter. Unexpected result, right? If a cubic meter of blocks weighs 500 kilograms, then one block will weigh only 8 kilograms. It's pretty small. If the blocks are hollow, then they will weigh even less. The calculation in this case is very complicated due to the difficulties in calculating the volume of one block.

A house made of expanded clay concrete blocks will turn out to be lighter than a brick house, but not light enough to build it on a lightweight foundation. The foundation, however, as always, requires calculation.

When laying a wall of expanded clay concrete blocks, cold bridges are almost certainly formed. It is good to make thin walls with external thermal insulation from such blocks.

It is better not to leave the laying of expanded clay concrete blocks unfinished for more than a couple of years. This can adversely affect the durability of the building.

A wall made of expanded clay concrete block is less breathable than a brick wall. However, given the fact that there is also an interior decoration of our walls, this issue is not so important.

When insulating a wall of expanded clay concrete blocks, I, as always, recommend doing it on the outside of the building and using mineral wool slabs of medium and low density. To calculate the thickness of the insulation, you can use the thermal conductivity calculator and an example of its use.

Personally, I like such a building material as expanded clay concrete blocks. I have used it in my practice. I like its strength and lightness at the same time. True, I took the blocks at a large plant and chose the parties. It seems to me that this wall material is better than brick in terms of price-quality ratio.

Thank you for your attention!

Dmitry Belkin

The technology of applying the plaster composition on expanded clay concrete blocks

Plastering can be done by hand, or using special plastering machines. If you have enough experience and knowledge, you can do the work yourself. If there is no certainty that everything will turn out qualitatively, then it is better to use the help of professional plasterers.

Wall plastering

Wall surface preparation

Before you start plastering the walls, you need to clean the surface from the influx of masonry mortar, dirt, grease and oil stains.

Products are characterized by a low coefficient of water absorption, that is, they practically do not absorb water from the solution. Therefore, preliminary priming of the surface of the blocks is not required.

Before applying cement-sand plaster, you can treat the blocks with a solution of cement with water, or simply wet them. Before starting work with other types of plaster, pre-treatment of the surface of the blocks with a special compound that improves the adhesion of materials is required.

Preparing the wall surface for plaster

• Due to the even surface of expanded clay blocks, the required thickness of the plaster layer is relatively small - from 1 cm to 1.5 cm. Under such conditions, the use of a reinforcing mesh is not required.
• In the case of further wall decoration with tiles or stone, it is possible to further strengthen the plaster layer with such a grid.
• However, in the presence of masonry defects and the need to apply a thicker layer of mortar, the use of masonry mesh is mandatory. For these purposes, a galvanized mesh or glass mesh is used. It is attached to the surface of the blocks with self-tapping screws.

Reinforcing mesh installation

The final stage of preparation is the installation of beacons with a step corresponding to the length of the rule, and setting them according to the level. The video in this article will tell you more about this.

Plaster preparation and application

Cement-sand mortar is easy to prepare yourself. But an easier option is to buy a ready-made dry mix. As a rule, on the package there is an instruction for its use.

The plaster mixture must be diluted with water and mixed thoroughly. Its consistency should be thick enough not to run down the surface.

With the manual method of plastering, the solution is applied to the surface of the blocks with a trowel, and leveled by the rule, taking into account the location of the beacons. Plaster on blocks of expanded clay concrete is made in two layers.

Alignment on beacons of gypsum plaster

Six hours after applying the first layer, it must be carefully rubbed.

Then the final layer of plaster is applied. To prevent cracking of the plastered surface, it must be covered with a film. The solution will dry gradually and evenly.

Mechanized block plastering

In the production of finishing works in large volumes, it is more expedient to use a mechanized method of applying plaster.

It has a number of undeniable advantages over manual plastering:

• Mixing the solution is much faster and better.
• Uniform application of plaster on the surface of a block structure.
• The quality of adhesion of the solution to the blocks is more durable, due to its supply under pressure.
• Significant savings in building materials, reduced labor costs.

When using plastering machines, it is necessary to select special dry mixes for machine plastering.

The use of a special plastering machine

Wall plastering will not only create additional protection for the wall structure, but also give the whole house an attractive aesthetic appearance.

Plastered facade of a country house

Plastering the interior walls of the premises, makes it possible to further decorate the interior with any materials.

Combination of wall painting with wallpapering

Properly selected plaster mixture, as well as professionally executed wall plaster, will significantly extend the life of the building.

Beautiful, reliable, durable - claydite-concrete walls can simply be plastered!

A wide choice of modern plaster materials makes it possible to comprehensively protect the house, creating its unique appearance both outside and inside.

What materials to use

It is possible to carry out wall insulation from expanded clay concrete blocks using various materials:

1. Mineral and basalt wool. This is one of the most popular heaters. Its advantages: incombustibility, low thermal conductivity, environmental safety and affordable price. The disadvantage of mineral wool is that it needs additional waterproofing, since it easily absorbs moisture and can become unusable over time. Produced in the form of plates and rolls. The higher the density of the material, the higher the cost.
2. Styrofoam. With the help of this light, inexpensive and easy-to-use insulation, you can carry out work quickly enough, and do it yourself. The disadvantages of such a solution include the instability of the material to the action of moisture and pests, fire hazard. Produced in the form of plates.
3. Glass wool. Withstands temperature extremes, does not dampen and is cheaper than mineral wool. However, when working with the material, safety precautions should be strictly observed - the smallest glass wool fibers can damage the respiratory tract and skin.
4. Penoplex. It has characteristics similar to polystyrene, but it is more expensive and practically does not let air through. Resistant to rodents, high humidity. It is produced in the form of plates with locks, due to which the installation process of the insulation is as simple as possible.

Advice! Answering the question of how to insulate the expanded clay block from the outside, experienced builders recommend mineral or basalt wool.

The nuances of the work

There are 3 ways of external insulation of expanded clay concrete walls:

1. Ventilated façade. When choosing this method, first a frame is created, inside which insulation boards are laid. It is important to consider that the crate is attached to the wall, creating an additional load on it, so this method is not recommended.
2. Laying insulation between the block and facing bricks. This method is considered the most reliable and durable, but the cost of such a solution is high, and therefore not available to everyone.
3. "Wet" method. The budgetary method of external insulation, used most often. It consists in the fact that the insulation is fixed to the wall using a special solution, after which it is covered with a vapor barrier material, on top of which plaster is applied. The advantages of this option: the absence of a serious load on the wall, the ability to paint the facade of the building in any color, the low cost of materials and work, the protection of expanded clay concrete from the influence of external factors (precipitation, temperature changes, winds).

Important! Before insulating expanded clay concrete blocks from the outside, they need to be plastered. This increases the wall's ability to retain heat.

Plastering of expanded clay blocks

Choosing a mixture for plastering the facade of a building in our time is not difficult. The compositions adapted to modern conditions have a very strong base. They do not crack, do not crumble for the next season. As soon as the plaster is applied to the wall, it should be covered with any facade paint. Such enamel will protect the walls from unnecessary dampness and prevent vapor permeability.

On these types of blocks, plaster based on cement and sand is applied. It is combined with masonry. For better performance of work, you can use a special grid, but this is not a prerequisite. A galvanized mesh of a flat sample is placed on the cement base. It is attached with screws. The washers will be a suspension made of zinc with perforations, divided into plates. Washers of such a plan have a minimum thickness, respectively, will not increase the plaster layer. Such indicators are very important for some surfaces.

To make your work as easy as possible, plasticizers should be added to the solution.

Plaster from a mixture of gypsum is warmer and more airy. It has a lower density. To improve adhesion to the wall, it is treated with a composition intended for this. There are ready-made gypsum plasters, consisting of concrete-contact ingredients. Preliminary action with such grounds is not required. Reinforcement is carried out by attracting a polymer mesh.

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Ventilated facade on KBB walls

If you have chosen a ventilated facade and insulated your house with basalt wool, you can mount it in a wooden crate or in the space between steel hangers. I do not recommend you to insulate a house from KBB with polystyrene foam under the ventilation facade.

Why? Because there are several reasons why foam plastic as a heater for a ventilation facade is completely unsuitable:

1. Styrofoam is a combustible material, it cannot be used in systems with a ventilated facade. Rodents feel great in such a pie if you nevertheless make foam plastic in a ventilated facade. Your insulation will fall down the ventilation gap.

Basalt wool, which you can use, is deprived of these shortcomings in the ventilation facade. You can also use polyurethane foam, resole foam or ecowool.

After installing the battens or hangers and subsequent insulation, you can mount the outer decorative layer on the ventilated facade.

What is suitable in this case for a KBB house:

• Porcelain tilesClinker panelsVinyl sidingMetal sidingFiber cement panelsPlankenBlock house

With these materials, you can form a decorative layer in the ventilated facade for your home. How to mount them - look at this site, everything is described in detail.

Requirements for materials for block plastering

When finishing cellular concrete with your own hands, the right choice of materials is of great importance. The solution must meet a number of requirements.

• High strength. Cellular blocks are not durable, which requires their protection from wear, abrasion, mechanical shock, scratches and other damage.
• Good moisture resistance. The pores on the surface actively absorb moisture, due to which the wall gets wet, this requires the exterior finish to be made with a waterproof layer.
• Sufficient adhesion. Otherwise, the composition will simply fall off. It is better to use mixtures made on the basis of a binder cement composition and various additives that increase adhesion.
• High plasticity. It is necessary that the layer be able to withstand small surface changes in geometry resulting from temperature changes and shrinkage. For these purposes, the composition must contain polymeric plasticizers and other elements that make the dried layer sufficiently flexible.
• Frost resistance.

What kind of plaster is suitable for expanded clay concrete walls

The surface of a building made of such blocks, depending on the purpose of the premises, is covered with:

• A mortar based on sand and cement (see Optimum ratio of cement and sand for plaster). The price of such a composition is relatively small, and its acquisition is available to everyone.
• Special cement-based mixtures with various additives, plasticizers and fillers. It is more convenient to work with such plaster, it is more durable, it has a number of positive characteristics.
• Hydrophobic compositions. It is used to protect the walls of buildings erected in difficult climatic conditions, or surfaces below ground zero.
• Gypsum-based solutions. They are used only for internal plastering of residential premises, which have normal humidity.

Tip: The main requirement for any type of finishing material is the possibility of applying it in a thick layer, and the presence of good vapor permeability.

Features of gypsum plaster for expanded clay houses

Some features of the use of gypsum plaster:

• The basis of the blocks is cement, and the plaster is gypsum.
• The two materials have a different acidity or pH level.
• Expanded clay concrete has an alkaline reaction, while gypsum gives an acid reaction. When mixing such media, a neutralization process occurs.
• After applying gypsum plaster to a wall of expanded clay concrete blocks, a neutralization reaction occurs. As a result, strength is lost at the media interface, which can lead to peeling of the plaster.

To solve this problem you will need:

• Prime the wall surfaces well with a primer specially designed for concrete substrates. Wherein:

the first layer is diluted with water so that the composition penetrates deeply into the material, creating a reinforced layer;
after the first has dried, the undiluted second is applied, creating the desired film on the border between the media separations.

• Gypsum plaster is used.

Tip: Priming the surface of the walls must be done without fail, for any type of finish, which significantly increases the adhesion strength of the plaster and the base.

Claydite concrete walls can be finished with any ready-made dry mixes used for buildings made of gas silicate or foam concrete blocks with high vapor permeability (see Plaster for cellular concrete: how to choose).

Claydite concrete wall decoration

Masonry, whether it is made of bricks or blocks, is not recommended to be left unprotected from moisture and frost from the outside of the building, the only exception can be facing bricks of good quality. It is also necessary to take into account such a nuance as the thermal conductivity of the walls of the house. Many private developers are building houses with a single block thickness of the outer wall, 400 mm (one and a half bricks). In this case, the house turns out to be lighter, not requiring a massive foundation. The most important thing is not to focus on this lightness and the foundation is correct. Despite the fact that expanded clay blocks outperform bricks in weight, the laying of a lightweight foundation is completely excluded. Just a minus for walls of this thickness is thermal conductivity. Before you start facing the walls from the outside, you need to think about their insulation.

For external thermal insulation of the house, you can use both extruded polystyrene foam and mineral wool insulation. The latter are non-combustible material, but on the other hand, it is quite possible to plaster on polystyrene foam plates, using a plaster mesh, of course. Mineral wool of low density does not have such advantages, and is suitable only for finishing with siding and panel materials. When laying this type of mineral wool under the siding, care should be taken that it is not blown by the wind; for this, wind-moisture-proof vapor permeable insulating membranes are used. Under such a membrane, mineral wool insulation will not be wet and will be reliably protected from wind blowing. There are also high-density mineral wool boards that are quite suitable for applying plaster on them, but this will not differ much from the use of polystyrene foam, except perhaps incombustibility. Choose for yourself, at your discretion or at a price.

of plaster mixtures for plastering facades at the present time is quite large. Modern plaster compositions do not crack during operation and do not fly off the walls after a season. After plastering, it is recommended to paint the outer walls with special facade paints, which not only protect the walls from excessive wetting, but also do not prevent their vapor permeability. Before plastering, if it is required in the instructions for the use of the plaster mix, it is recommended to treat walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks with “concrete contact”, since these are, first of all, concrete blocks, which include expanded clay. Also, “concrete contact” is necessary when applying plaster inside the house.

Finishing walls with siding, or plastic panels for the facade, is a less time-consuming task than plastering the surface, especially if you also take into account the use of insulation. It is quite possible to handle paneling or siding on your own, but it is not easy to plaster the entire area of ​​​​the walls of the house, it is unlikely that a non-professional can handle it, although there would be a desire ...

Less common is another option for finishing - painting a wall of blocks without applying a plaster layer. If the walls are sufficient to not apply a layer of insulation, why not? This type of finish is quite aesthetic.

Wet facade on the walls of the KBB house

If you want to make a wet facade on your house, then after preparing the walls (leveling, filling cracks, removing excess mortar), you can start warming the walls of the house.

You can use basalt wool with a density of 45 or more and facade foam with a density of 25 or more. The wool is mounted on facade dowels, the foam is mounted on glue and additionally on facade dowels.

At the time of installation of the insulation, a facade fiberglass mesh is attached on top of it, which will reinforce the plaster layer. The mesh is fastened with the same facade dowels with "fungi" that hold the insulation on the wall.

After installing the fiberglass mesh, a base primer layer or two-component plaster is applied. Next, the plaster is primed with a penetrating primer. Modern facade systems allow you to keep the plaster layer in a semi-plastic state, which guarantees its long-term operation.

After priming, you can prepare for applying a decorative layer or for painting.

You can use the following decorative coating options:

• Facade paint paintingDecorative bark beetle plasterPlaster coatDecorative smalted plaster

After applying the decorative layer, you can use fixing compositions and facade varnishes. They will protect the decorative layer from contamination and possible destruction.

In no case should you insulate a house made of expanded clay concrete from the inside. Expanded clay concrete is actually a vapor-tight material. Moisture from the premises will be locked between the insulation and the blocks INSIDE the premises. In this case, you will have all the adverse consequences - dampness in the room, mold under the insulation, and so on.

Application of concrete plaster.

Plastering walls with sand concrete can be done with a "purchased" mixture or prepared independently.

Solution preparation.

To prepare the solution, a concrete mixer or trough is used.

Plaster for outdoor work on concrete is prepared as follows:

1. Sand sifting. For plaster - it is important, since small pebbles, clay impurities and organic residues (leaves, roots) will interfere with the leveling of the plaster.
2. Mixing. First, I combine sand with cement: pour sand and cement into the container and mix them thoroughly.
3. Adding water done in small batches. It is very easy to pour it: at the last moment, when the solution is almost ready, every 200 grams of water can become fatal.

After adding each portion, the mixture is thoroughly mixed.

1. Definition of readiness. The solution must be homogeneous (in color, structure). Its consistency should be such that it easily slides off the trowel, spatula, leaving it almost clean.

The ratio of sand and cement depends on the brand of cement. For example, for the M500 - 5 buckets of sand. BUT, if the cement is not fresh, its concentration is increased by 1 position (1 hour Cement: 4 hours sand).

Plastering walls with homemade sand concrete is the simplest finish available to a non-professional builder.

Plastering of expanded clay concrete blocks - construction

Plaster of expanded clay concrete blocks

Plaster of expanded clay concrete blocks

One of the advantages of expanded clay concrete blocks is that they do not need serious plaster work for cladding. The outer wall can have a layer of plaster only 5 mm thick. Sometimes just grouting, clogging pores is enough. In this case, the inner layer of the substance will be only 5–10 mm. Yes, and plaster can be different.

Varieties

The plaster of expanded clay concrete blocks is gypsum. It is slightly lighter and better in terms of thermal protection, compared with a cement-sand mortar. However, before applying it, it is necessary to treat the surface with concrete contact. It increases adhesion, gives good adhesion of the material to the surface of expanded clay. In some cases, the wall processing step can be skipped if the appropriate solution is selected.

The cement-sand variety of plaster is similar in composition to wall plaster, which increases adhesion. Requires additional reinforcement with a fine-mesh galvanized mesh, which is attached separately to the wall.

In fact, both types of plaster provide equally good thermal insulation. They close micropores, prevent cracks and crevices from protruding. After plastering, the outer surface can be lined with ceramic tiles, cardboard or plastic panels. But first you need to figure out how exactly the plaster is applied to expanded clay concrete blocks.

Applying plaster

In this process, it is necessary to be guided by the material used. If plastering foam and aerated concrete often requires 3-4 stages, then walls made of expanded clay concrete need only two to achieve an ideal result. This is the filling of joints without the use of a reinforcing mesh, after which there is a final plastering with alignment. And if we move away from theory and touch on practice, then we often get by with one stage.

The plaster of expanded clay concrete blocks dries quickly enough, while it is almost not absorbed by the walls. It turns out that the solution, as it were, dries completely “outside”. As a result, there is no special need for the use of mesh to ensure a strong adhesion of the plaster to the expanded clay. A wall plastered in this way does not suffer from daily temperature fluctuations in winter, does not collapse and does not form cracks. In addition, thermal conductivity meets all standards.

Finishing work

In addition to plaster, expanded clay concrete blocks can be painted with any paint, if they are vapor-permeable. No pre-putty is required, which results in a beautiful surface relief of the blocks. However, the consumption of facade paint increases.

In addition, the relief surface of the blocks is well lined with decorative light and heavy tiles made of porcelain stoneware, etc. The main thing is to use good tile adhesive.

When facing, it is important to take into account such a factor as vapor permeability. The steam must escape to the outside, which requires the use of a vapor-permeable grout adhesive

In addition, the installation of plates takes place taking into account the ventilation air gap.

Let's briefly summarize

Claydite concrete block plaster and subsequent cladding protect the material from climatic influences, increase its performance properties and unique qualities:

• Humidity regulation
• Breathability
• Excellent thermal inertia
• Ease
• Low thermal conductivity
• Environmental friendliness

And do not forget that you need to choose expanded clay concrete blocks only from a reliable manufacturer, and when working with it, follow all technical construction standards.

According to the materials of the site: http://skb21.ru

Sheathing with plasterboard sheets

There is another way to finish the expanded clay concrete wall from the inside of the building - this is sheathing with plasterboard sheets.

Wall cladding with plasterboard

Anchors, self-tapping screws, etc. hold very well on expanded clay concrete blocks, so metal profiles are attached directly to the wall. In the space between the wall and drywall, you can lay an additional layer of insulation - an additional plus of using drywall sheets.

Installation of drywall sheets is the same as for other types of walls, very simple and fast. After that, it remains only to putty the joints of drywall sheets and cover the entire surface with a thin layer of finishing putty.

Installation of drywall sheets is the easiest type of room decoration, but do not forget that this method hides space.

The three methods described above are the most suitable types of finishing for expanded clay concrete blocks. Which one is better for you, decide for yourself. You can also learn how to properly prepare plaster solutions and apply them to the surface on our website. Have a good repair!

The video below will show you how to plaster block walls.

Warming

When working on the facade, the following must be taken into account:

• practice shows that one of the best options for exterior decoration is the laying of a heat-insulating expanded clay concrete block, which compensates for heat losses up to 75%; mineral wool or polystyrene foam / polystyrene foam acts as an additional insulation; foam plastic is fixed on a cleaned base with an adhesive composition, additionally fastened with dowels. All seams are processed with mounting foam; mineral wool requires stripping, gluing and reinforcing wall structures to increase structural strength; the use of penoizol will achieve sound and waterproofing and reduce thermal conductivity.

Arrangement of plaster under a fur coat

Work can be carried out without insulation or on this layer. The method, known as “fur coat” facade finishing, is carried out by spraying or spraying a solution. This method is less time consuming than working with other materials.

To work with the solution, special devices have been created. The device can be the simplest, with manual control, or more technologically advanced, such as an air gun. At the construction site, the required mobility of the mixture is selected and proceed to finishing.

When choosing materials, you should initially evaluate the amount of work. Finishing cost may be too high

Wall decoration from expanded clay concrete blocks

Exterior decoration of walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks is made of facing ceramic or clinker bricks, crushed stone or plastic facade systems.

Insulation is most often located on the outside of the building. Firstly, the area of ​​the internal rooms does not decrease, and secondly, condensate will not form between the wall surface and the thermal insulation layer, the accumulation of which over time can lead to partial destruction of expanded clay concrete blocks.

Various materials are used as a heater when decorating a house from expanded clay concrete blocks:

• Styrofoam. The most common and technologically advanced material for insulation;
• mineral wool based on basalt fiber. This insulation has high thermal insulation performance, does not crumble and does not lose shape;
• fiberglass. It has a relatively low cost.

For interior decoration, the same rules apply as for other building materials. Cement-sand or gypsum plaster is used. Facing with plasterboard, clapboard, plastic panels is possible - guide bars or a metal profile hold well on expanded clay concrete masonry.

Laying ceramic tiles or natural stone is carried out directly on the wall of the house without additional preparation. In this case, a special tile adhesive or cement-sand mortar is used.

Plaster of expanded clay concrete blocks

The plaster of claydite-concrete blocks from a cement-sand mixture binds well with the masonry - the mixture and the material of the walls are based on a cement binder. The use of a plaster mesh is desirable, but not necessary, it can only be used to strengthen the lintels and armored belt. For cement plaster walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks, a flat galvanized mesh is suitable, which is attached to self-tapping screws. A galvanized perforated suspension, cut into plates with holes, is suitable as washers. Such washers practically do not add thickness to the plaster layer.

This is especially important if the surface is sufficiently even and the minimum thickness of the plaster layer is planned.

The addition of special plasticizers to the solution greatly facilitates the work.

Plaster for expanded clay concrete blocks based on gypsum mixtures is lighter and warmer, due to its lower density. To improve adhesion, the walls of houses are treated with a special compound. There are gypsum mixtures, in which concrete contact components have already been added. When working with them, pre-treatment of the surface is not required. Reinforcement, if necessary, is carried out using a polymer mesh. It is much easier to work with it than with metal.

Facing the house of expanded clay concrete blocks

If the exterior cladding of the house is taken into account in the project, then at the stage of building walls, a special mesh of metal wire with a diameter of 3-4 mm and a cell width of 50 mm is laid. It is laid through two (maximum three) rows of blocks. The thickness of this mesh is not large, so it will not affect the thermal conductivity. The outer wall of facing bricks is connected to the inner wall along the entire perimeter of the building without interruption. Experts recommend simultaneously erecting both walls - the base and the finish, then the outlets of the laid mesh will definitely not rust.

Another option for fixing the cladding of a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks is with the help of flexible plastic clamps. In this case, it is convenient to make a fixed ventilation gap between the thermal insulation layer and the outer wall. The latch is a round rod with a dowel sleeve at one end and an anchor at the other. Holes are drilled in the bearing wall with a vertical pitch of 50-60 cm and a horizontal one of 40-50 cm, into which dowels are hammered. The heat-insulating material is strung on dowels and fixed with plastic clamps. The protruding ends of the rods with a sand anchor are walled up in the masonry joints of the facing material.

If external insulation is not planned, then the facing wall can be attached to the carrier using clamps - galvanized steel strips 30-40 mm wide, bent in the shape of the letter "G". Clamps are nailed horizontally in increments of 50-60 cm. The free end is inserted into the seams of the outer masonry.

How warm and durable a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks will be depends not only on the project, the building materials used, but also on the professionalism of the workers, the quality of the work performed. The company "Proekt" provides construction services in Moscow and the Moscow region. Experienced professionals perform indoor and outdoor construction work at affordable prices.

External coating of the house of expanded clay concrete blocks

Insulation of expanded clay concrete walls with fiberglass.

A house made of expanded clay concrete blocks, in terms of which an external covering of the walls is provided, during their construction is fixed with a special mesh resembling a metal wire with a diameter of 3-4 mm. It is placed in a certain interval, through 2 rows of blocks. The grid has a slight thickness, so the heat conduction coefficient will remain at the same level.

The outer wall, finished with facing bricks, is connected to the inner partition along the perimeter of the building. Many experienced craftsmen at one time build 2 walls at once, one of which is the base, and the other is the finishing option. The laid mesh will not corrode.

A house made of expanded clay concrete blocks, as options for fixing the lining of the coating, may have elastic plastic retainers. A ventilation opening is constructed here, located in the space between the outer base and the layer to retain heat. A rod with a dowel sleeve and an anchor acts as a latch.

Recesses are made on the main wall at a distance of 50-60 cm vertically and 40-50 cm horizontally. Dowels are hammered into them. The base, which serves as a heat insulator, is mounted on dowels and snapped into place with plastic clips.

The construction of expanded clay concrete blocks, not insulated with material, involves the connection with the supporting structure with clamps, that is, strips of steel base, taking the shape of the letter "G". Clamps are fixed at a distance of 50-60 mm.

The high performance of facing buildings from expanded clay concrete blocks is determined by the nature of the building materials used and the experience of the craftsmen.

Based on site materials: http://ostroymaterialah.ru

Question: Good afternoon, ladies and gentlemen! Please tell us how best to decorate the outside of a house of expanded clay concrete blocks (KBB), what kind of facade would be appropriate here, what materials can be used? Artur Shakarin, Novosibirsk

The answer is Semyon Fiskunov, CJSC Stroy-Alliance, Togliatti.

Answer: Hello Arthur! I will try to answer your question in detail. Moreover, KBB is a fairly popular material, many owners build their houses from expanded clay concrete blocks.

In the very first place, I would like to ask you a counter question - how thick did you erect the walls of expanded clay concrete? The question is by no means idle.

It depends on your answer whether you will have to insulate your CBB walls, or you can immediately deal with fine exterior finishing and applying a decorative layer.

The main nuances when finishing expanded clay concrete walls

Let's digress a little from the topic, and talk about the material itself. The block, as we already figured out above, consists of concrete and expanded clay. It has good vapor permeability, low thermal conductivity, and is relatively light. However, its surface is far from ideally even - there may be various pores, shells, and protrusions. At the same time, it perfectly absorbs water from the external environment (for example, during rain, or ground). Yes, and its geometric dimensions, as a rule, are characterized by significant deviations - up to several centimeters. It goes without saying that a wall built using these blocks will not be distinguished by surface cleanliness and evenness. Hence the requirement for the thickness of the layer with which the plaster allows you to work.

Of course, thin-layer mixtures can also be used, but, as practice shows, this will be a more laborious, lengthy and expensive process. In this case, it will be necessary to apply several layers, and each must gain a certain strength - and this is time. In addition, it is necessary to provide embedded elements necessary for their connection, or use a special plaster mesh. Alternatively, the first layer can be made in the form of separate “cakes” applied with a trowel or plaster trowel, which is then well primed after hardening, and after that the surface is finally leveled. As you can see, the process is quite tedious.

plaster cost.

The price of plaster includes the amount of materials used (sand, concrete). Hired workers indicate only the cost of their work per m2, without taking into account the cost of purchasing building materials.

The method of calculating the required amount of materials depends on the curvature of the walls:

1. Smooth walls. The plaster has a layer of approx. 2cm. It is enough to multiply 0.02 m (2 cm) by the "square" of the surface to be plastered to get the volume of the required mixture in cubic meters.

The brand of cement also matters: for example, M-500 requires 5 buckets of sand. So, 1/6th of the volume is cement. Accordingly, the resulting value must be divided by 6 to find out how much cement is needed and calculate its cost.

By multiplying this number by 5, you can find out the required amount of sand.

1. Curved walls. The consumption of the solution increases significantly if the walls are curved. They can be curved, concave, or oblique.

It is impossible to reliably accurately calculate the need for a solution with a strong curvature of the walls. It is easier to do this: calculate the volume of plaster in one layer (as if the walls were even), and then add to them the approximate volume of areas that require thicker plastering.

You can buy the components of the mixture in a deliberately smaller volume in order to subsequently acquire the missing quantity (when there are not many non-plastered surfaces, it will definitely become easier to calculate). This will help to avoid buying extra material.

Plastering workers charge per sq.m. But this does not apply to special situations. For example, corners are charged per linear meter, not per square meter. This is due to the special complexity of the work.

The way to save money can be as follows: you can plaster the walls yourself, and order professionals to perform more accurate and meticulous work.

Types of plaster

Claydite-concrete walls can be plastered with both cement-based and gypsum-based compositions.

Professional spray plastering of expanded clay concrete wall

Advantages of cement-sand plaster:

• the composition includes cement - a material that is present in the composition of the blocks themselves, which contributes to good adhesion of the plaster to the wall surface;
• enhances the strength of the masonry;
• suitable for interior and exterior decoration;
• the possibility of cooking with your own hands.

Advantages of gypsum plaster:

• not inferior in strength to cement-sand plaster;
• creates a smoother surface;
• has better thermal insulation properties compared to cement-sand mortar.

Plaster with cement-sand mortar

Plastering rooms with high humidity: kitchens, bathrooms, etc., as well as making the cladding outside the building better with a cement-sand mortar.

Cement-sand mortar

An expanded clay wall does not require a thick layer of plaster, it is necessary to level the surface, hide the seams of the masonry, and cement-sand plaster outside the building improves the waterproof qualities of the wall, protects the masonry from temperature extremes, and creates a pleasant decorative appearance of the facade of the building.

It is possible to plaster expanded clay with a cement-sand composition without the use of a reinforcing fine-mesh mesh, since usually the plaster layer is no more than 1 centimeter. If there are funds, it is better to use it to increase the strength of the coating; it is very easily attached to expanded clay with dowel-nails with a wide hat, but this is not necessary.

Plastering expanded clay is enough in 2 thin layers, followed by grouting the dried mortar.

Do not forget to clean the surface from dust, debris and protruding masonry mortar before starting work. The solution must be chipped off with a chisel.

Unlike gas silicate blocks, foam blocks, expanded clay concrete blocks do not strongly absorb moisture from the mortar, so they can be plastered immediately, without first passing over the surface with a primer. It is enough to moisten the wall with water during the application of the cement-sand mortar.

Gypsum-based plaster

Gypsum plaster has a number of its advantages, so builders use it as often as cement-sand mortar.

Ready-made universal gypsum mixture

Gypsum plaster reduces the thermal conductivity of the building, it is much more plastic and easier to work with. The coating of gypsum plaster turns out to be smoother, you can immediately apply a decorative finish on it, it is perfect for wallpaper, painting. Thanks to modern technologies, compounds are added to gypsum plaster that increase its strength, so heavy facing materials can be glued to gypsum, just like cement-sand mortar. Here, the main thing is to use a gypsum mixture designed specifically for heavy materials.

When plastering expanded clay concrete blocks with a gypsum-based composition, it is imperative to pre-treat the wall surface with agents that improve adhesion between it and the blocks. Such compositions are called "betonokontakt".

For wet rooms, use special gypsum mixes, marked accordingly on the package.

Why you need to plaster the walls of the house from expanded clay concrete

As mentioned above, plastering the walls of a residential building erected from expanded clay concrete is recommended in most cases. What for? Let's think logically. The building block discussed in this article is essentially expanded clay and a cement binder that allows it to maintain a given shape. At the same time, a huge mass of pores is formed in it, through which air circulates quite freely. As a result, folded unplastered walls made of such material will simply be blown through, which will make the dwelling cold and uncomfortable.

Plastering only from the inside will not bring much, reducing the level of heat loss, since cold air will also freely penetrate the wall from the street, up to the inner layers, take heat, and also exit unhindered. This, despite the fact that drafts in this case should not be.

If a decision is made to finish a claydite-concrete house, it must be plastered, both inside and outside. High-quality external and internal plaster will significantly increase the service life of the walls, and will allow you to fully use the heat-insulating properties of the material - you get something like a "thermos" that perfectly retains heat.

Basic requirements for plastering on expanded clay concrete blocks

The simplest and most economical solution for finishing is plastering walls from expanded clay blocks. Wall plastering can be an independent finishing option.

It is also recommended for further finishing with decorative tiles or stone. The application of the plaster composition is necessary to prepare the base of the walls for painting or wallpapering. As an option - finishing with decorative plaster.

Decorative facade plaster

The main requirements for plastering materials for the considered blocks:

• High strength of the resulting coating.
• Creation of moisture resistant protection.
• Good adhesion to expanded clay concrete.
• Sufficient plasticity of the material.

Lightweight concrete products have a low resistance to mechanical damage to the front surface. The porous structure of the material easily absorbs water, which, accumulating in the pores, eventually leads to the destruction of the material. Therefore, expanded clay blocks require good protection of their surface from moisture and mechanical stress.

Reliable fixation of the plaster layer on the wall is achieved by good mutual adhesion of materials. To avoid cracking of the plaster due to shrinkage of the masonry, sufficient plasticity of the materials used is required.

Do-it-yourself bath from expanded clay concrete blocks

Even in not so ancient times, baths were built almost exclusively from timber and sometimes from brick, because these materials were considered optimal in terms of heat retention and resistance to moisture. In addition, the tree was quite accessible to any builder. But accessibility does not mean durability - constant moisture relatively quickly began to disable such structures.

1. Preparation for construction
2. Foundation device
3. Construction of a bath
4. Finishing and insulation

The search for a worthy alternative continued for many years, but only today materials have appeared that can fully replace the wood in the walls of the bath.

Advantages of expanded clay concrete blocks

One of these materials are blocks of expanded clay concrete. They are made from several different components using vibrocompression. Expanded clay, which is foamed and fired clay, sand and cement, are mixed and compacted using high pressure vibration loads. The result is a building material characterized by lightness and high strength.

The main advantages that distinguish expanded clay concrete blocks from other building materials are:

• absolute non-toxicity of expanded clay concrete blocks, which are among the most environmentally friendly materials;
• weak absorption of moisture by blocks, as a result, they are not subject to the destructive effects of steam and water, unlike wood;
• excellent thermal insulation properties, due to which heat is well preserved inside the bathhouse without large-scale insulation work;
• the relative lightness of wall blocks (8 kg), which allows you to build a bathhouse on your own, without resorting to outside help.

Preparation for construction

Like the work on the construction of any building, the construction of a bath from expanded clay blocks begins with the creation of a project and the acquisition of the necessary materials in the right amount.

For construction you will need:

• expanded clay concrete blocks;
• brick;
• material for waterproofing;
• cement;
• wooden slats;
• lining;
• fixing material;
• roofing material.

Foundation device

Usually, two types of foundation are used for a bath: strip or columnar. Tape is a continuous strip of concrete or brick, outlining the contour of the building being erected. And at the columnar support, separate pillars serve. Walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks will not create a heavy load on the base, so a columnar foundation is better for a bath.

Wall cladding options

Reduced heat transfer resistance of various enclosing structures.

Natural stone or ceramic tiles are determined directly on the wall of expanded clay concrete blocks, there is no need for preparatory work. For better fixing of these materials, tile glue or a mixture of cement and sand is taken.

As indicated earlier, the buildings of the sample under consideration are not left bare, unprotected from the external influences of nature. Of course, if we are not talking about high-quality facing bricks

Despite the fact that buildings made of expanded clay blocks are lightweight, it is very important to correctly calculate the foundation.

Therefore, the small weight of such materials does not give grounds for the construction of a lightweight version of the foundation. The disadvantage of such overlaps will be their low thermal conductivity. Before facing external walls, care must be taken to carry out warming measures.

So, mineral wool does not burn, a plaster layer can be applied to it, using a special mesh for this.

This cannot be said about mineral wool. It is designed to decorate the building with siding and other materials in the form of panels. Mineral wool, laid under the siding, must be protected from the wind.

For such purposes, membranes are used that have properties to protect against wind and moisture. In this case, the insulation will be dry and provide reliable protection from rain and wind. There are also such heaters based on mineral wool with a special durable layer on which plaster can be applied.

It is worth noting that the external decoration of the walls of the house with plastic panels or siding will not be such a difficult undertaking, unlike finishing the surface with plaster. If plastering the base of the house is only possible for an experienced craftsman, then here you can do all the work yourself. Sometimes a method of painting walls is used without first plastering the surface, but it is used very rarely.

Scheme of the device of a heat block with expanded clay concrete.

One of the frequently used options for finishing the outer shells of the house will be ceramic, clinker and brick cladding.

The least expensive option would be surface treatment with a layer of cement-sand plaster. The last finishing option, together with facade paints, helps to form original surfaces and an unusual appearance. Plaster is in the best possible contact with expanded clay concrete, it is actively used for bases that are constantly changing under the influence of external temperatures and are periodically damaged. The facade lined with natural stone looks very beautiful and original.

He is not afraid of frost, while it looks monolithic, chic and unusual. This material can be completely replaced with artificial stone. It is no worse than the natural version, and it is much cheaper.

As a finishing option, thermal panels made of polyurethane and clinker tiles will complement the outer shells of the house well. This method of finishing can be called the least expensive.

Panels of such a plan are lightweight, they are often used with a strip base. They are strong, environmentally friendly, create a stable microclimate in the room, regardless of the season. Installation work is extremely simple, even a non-professional can do it.

Ventilated facades skillfully hide possible flaws in wall coverings. In the space between the wall and the facing layer, there is a constant movement of air, as a result of which the base is not subjected to destructive influence.

Siding can be attributed to an inexpensive option for decorating exterior walls. However, such panels are quite fragile and can break, which is not very well reflected on the wall of expanded clay concrete. Houses made of this material can stand for a century, but here it is important to choose the right finishing option so that the base is securely completed.

Dormer windows are almost an integral attribute of many buildings of the last century with a pitched roof. The purpose of this element is not clear to everyone, so today we will deal with the purpose, functions and the need to build such windows in a private house.

What is a skylight

The very phrase "dormer" can be misleading, because it is not intended to listen to anything. The fact is that earlier the word "hearing" was given an alternative meaning: an opening, a vent, that is, in fact, it meant a hole.

Dormer windows are arranged in pitched roofs and come in several types. The most popular windows protruding from the slope with the formation of a triangular pediment. Some modifications are supplemented with straight walls at the base, while the front part acquires the profile of a "house". Depending on the architecture of the building and the configuration of the roof, dormer windows can have an arched ceiling, be covered with one longitudinal slope, and even have panoramic glazing - in a word, take any shape necessary for the unity of the architectural style.

Dormer windows can also be considered dormer windows, but they have a slightly different purpose and device. The main structural difference lies in the framing of the window with a sealing contour and special flashings, while between the covering of the dormer window and the slope, standard methods for making roof junctions are used - ridges and valleys. On the other hand, the roof window provides full lighting, it also has high energy saving requirements, which is often not important for a conventional dormer window.

Purpose and functions

But why then do you need a dormer window? To answer this question, one should consider the thermal engineering model of the roof and attic floor in summer and winter.

In the cold season, when the building is heated from the inside, a certain amount of heat and water vapor penetrate through the ceiling. The attic, operated in cold mode, acts as an airtight gateway, eliminating the effect of wind on the thermal protection circuit and slightly increasing the temperature of the outside air.

However, the ingress of steam into a closed space does not pass without a trace: moisture freezes on the supporting structure and the wrong side of the roof because it cannot escape into the external environment. Thanks to the dormer windows in the attic, moderate air exchange with the street is maintained without intensive flows, so the overall thermal regime of the roof does not change too much, but frost formation does not occur.

In summer, the dormer window contributes to the active ventilation of the under-roof space and the cooling of the attic floor. Such an effect may seem insignificant, but history knows many examples when dormer windows turned out to be incredibly useful. One of these is the refurbishment of the roof of the Moscow Manege, where the damage to the ceiling finish of the upper floor from overheating was eliminated by inserting dormer windows. There is an opinion that the name of the windows comes from the name of the master who led the team of roofers involved in this project.

It should be noted that the presence of dormer windows allows you to equip a warm attic, which remains airtight in winter and is ventilated in summer. In addition, a sufficient amount of light enters the attic space through the dormer windows to inspect the ceiling and truss system. Also through the auditory openings there is access to the roof surface.

Device Features

When constructing a dormer window in the roof, three important nuances must be taken into account: the height of the tie-in, connection with the truss system and the adjoining of the roofing. With the height of the tie-in, everything is simple: in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe mauerlag there is an irrationally used volume of under-roof space, therefore, in most cases, it is advantageous for the bottom of the opening to be located at the level of the attic floor. However, if the roof has a long eaves or the truss system is on a parapet, the window will inevitably cut at some height.

The width of the dormer window is limited by the distance between the rafters. Inserting a window in a section of a slope that is crossed by a rafter leg inevitably necessitates strengthening the carrier system, installing additional spacers and racks. Of course, there are roofs with a frequent rafter pitch, and in such cases, the completion of the truss system is inevitable, however, it is preferable to mount several small windows rather than one large one.