Antler flower care. Fluffy tree with deer antlers: stag-horned and fragrant sumac. Beautiful and unpretentious

Platicerium or deer antler flower is an epiphytic fern, which in appearance, however, does not look like a fern at all. There are two types of flower: one is antler-shaped and bears spores, and the other is an infertile type that supports the plant on tree trunks. Barren wai, among other things, collect food for the fern. Like a trap, they capture rotten leaves, moss, dead insects, etc. When it all rots, the antler flower gets its nourishing soil.

The deer antler belongs to the centipede family whose homeland is Australia and Polynesia. Leaves can reach up to 1m in length. The flower grows slowly, and blooms very rarely.

In total, there are 15 species of herbaceous perennials in this genus, which are common in the Asian tropics of Asia, the Philippines and Australia, the Malay Archipelago and the islands of the Indian Ocean, Africa, and Madagascar.

Description

Deerhorn leaves are sterile and spore-bearing. Sterile wai rounded, wide, tightly pressed by the side and bottom edges to the substrate; the top of the sheet moves away from the support and forms a funnel. In addition to photosynthesis, these leaves are needed to capture falling leaves and other organic matter. The newly formed sterile wai hide the old ones under them, which subsequently decompose. So the trap increases, and the flower itself grows.

Spore-bearing wai have a completely different shape.. Hanging or erect in shape, they resemble deer antlers (hence the name). At the ends of the leaves on the underside, many sporangia are formed.

Growing, transplanting

Diseases and pests

The leaves may turn yellow and become covered with brown spots. A high temperature in the room, more than 25 ° C, can cause such a reaction. If the temperature rises, the humidity must also be increased. The reason may also be the irregularity or lack of watering.
The leaves turn yellow, the flower grows poorly - very low humidity and the proximity of the elements of the heating system.
The leaves are sluggish, faded, translucent - excessively intense natural light.
The leaves are dull or pale, the ends turn brown or turn yellow, the flower does not grow at all or grows poorly. The reason may be a lack of nutrition, too small or too large a pot in which the fern grows.
Leaves may turn yellow, brown, curl and fall off, young leaves may wither and die due to too low room temperature, exposure to drafts, watering with cold, chlorinated or hard water.

Do not remove dead sterile sheets.

reproduction

The easiest way to reproduce indoor fern is the division of the rhizome. Other methods are more laborious, therefore, they are used mainly only by experienced flower growers.

Deer antlers - a very beautiful flower, and they will be able to decorate any window sill in the house. And the ease of caring for a plant, even for a novice grower, guarantees success in growing it.

Deer horns: care, watering, photo, transplant and reproduction. Deer horns (Kalanchoe laciniata) - because of the unusual shape of the leaves, the plant is called Deer horns. The plant is classified as indoor, rather unpretentious. Native to Africa, subtropics and tropics of Asian countries. A perennial herbaceous representative with a juicy fleshy shoot, at first erect, then decumbent, from below the plant becomes bare with age. The leaf is fleshy, deeply dissected, serrated along the edges, light green, has a waxy coating. The flower is tubular, yellow-orange. Flowering at Deer horns is plentiful. The soil for the plant is selected sod-sandy. In autumn and winter, it is watered to a limited extent, after the earth has completely dried out. Thanks to the shoots drooping over time, it can be grown as an ampelous type of plant. Different species have different leaflets. Often thick, strongly or slightly dissected, may be sessile, or may have petioles. Red, white or purple flower is collected in an umbrella-shaped inflorescence. Like most plants, Deer Antlers like bright, adequate lighting. In summer, daylight hours are provided up to 12 hours, starting from the end of summer, lighting is provided no more than 9 hours. In winter, the flower is placed on the southern windowsill. In summer, Deer Horns are shaded, because. scorching sunlight can leave burns on the leaves of the plant, and also leads to their redness. Temperature: Deer horns are an unpretentious plant. Keep at room temperature. In summer the temperature is up to 27°С, in winter the recommended temperature is no more than 15°С. Leaves can deteriorate from cold air, and at elevated temperatures in autumn and winter, a flower bud is not laid. Watering: When watering Deer horns, soft, settled water is used. Watering is carried out as the dryness of the upper part of the soil, in no case should the earthen clod be completely dry. In winter, water every four days after the substrate has dried. Excess water from the pan is drained. Humidity: Reindeer antlers can easily tolerate dry indoor air. In summer, it will be useful to spray the plant with a spray bottle. Top dressing: At the time of growth, every half a month it is fertilized with fertilizers for the cactus. Flowering Deer Horns in winter are fed with fertilizer for a flower plant in half doses. Transfer: Deer horns are transplanted in the spring, after flowering, depending on the volume of the root. In some situations, they are transplanted every year, while choosing a larger pot. A small plant is transplanted less often. Expanded clay or finely broken brick is poured at the bottom of the pot, which helps to drain excess water. Young Deer Horns are planted in a substrate of soddy soil, foliage, sand and peat. Propagation: It is easy to propagate Deer Antlers with an upper shoot that has reached a length of ten centimeters, which is taken in the spring from a branch of current growth. Rooted in peat with sand under plastic wrap, periodically ventilated. The rooted cutting is transplanted into a separate pot and placed in a place with brightly diffused light. It is possible to propagate Deer Antlers with seeds that are very small. Seeds are sown at the end of winter in a mixture of hardwood and sand, without sprinkling the seeds. Planted seeds will germinate in two weeks. Seedlings are dived and exposed to the light. The second pick is held before the start of summer. Some features: Because of the unusual appearance, many people put the plant in the outback of the room to decorate the interior. This can be done, however, in such conditions, watering is reduced to a minimum. And you can’t keep Deer Horns in partial shade for more than a month, otherwise the plant will wither. With excess heat and moisture, it is affected by powdery mildew. In an excessively humid or cool room, deer horns are affected by gray mold. The spider mite also affects the plant.

The homeland of clananchoe is considered to be South Africa and Asia, tropical places in South America. Kalanchoe Laciniata is a perennial herbaceous plant., shoots are juicy, fleshy, at first erect, then, as they grow older, they become lodging, and then, over time, completely bare below.

The leaves are original, deeply dissected, serrate at the edges, light green in bright color, as if covered with wax. This species is not as popular as other, more colorful Kalanchoes. But for its branchy carved bright leaves, this Kalanchoe is very fond of lovers of exotic flowers. The flower is unpretentious and quite easy to care for.

Reference! Kalanchoe laciniata is called dissected or lobed. In everyday life, flower growers call the flower Deer Horns for the bizarre branching shape of the leaves. Deer horns are not distinguished by the brightness of the inflorescences, its flowers are small, inconspicuous yellow colors.

Varieties of deer horns

This flower comes from the subtropics of Africa. It is very different from all its relatives with a pinnate, pointed leaf shape. The leaves are bright, rich green, reminiscent of a decorative thorn with fleshy leaves sticking out in different directions. The stems are straight, grow up to 45 - 50 cm. But they adjoin with age. To give Kalanchoe a beautiful shape, it is most often cut at home. Blooms profusely. The flowers themselves are uncomplicated, simple, miniature, 1 - 2 cm, pale yellow or orange.

The leaves are fleshy, poured with juice, which is considered a healing, anti-inflammatory agent. Leaves look like branched deer antlers. As they mature, the tender leaves gradually lean down. The flowers are small, tubular, yellow, grow sparsely. This type is often used in wall decorations for home decor.

Of the two hundred species of Kalanchoe, only a little more than ten varieties of this wonderful plant grow at home. On our portal you can learn about and varieties, for example:,. We also talked about caring for a beautiful Kalanchoe with flowers.

Where and how to plant?

Young Kalanchoe Laciniata transplanted once a year:

We process the pot for the prevention of diseases.
At the bottom of a small pot we place drainage - pebbles, expanded clay, pieces of chopped cork, 4-6 cm.
Easily, without trampling, pour wet soil.
We deepen to the level of the neck, we make a small indentation.
We fertilize the soil.

An adult flower is transplanted every 3 to 4 years as needed.:

Use the transfer method.
The pot requires a larger size than the previous one.
At the bottom, on one third of the volume of the pot, we pour a drainage base - expanded clay.
We place a shallow root along with an old earthy clod.
Fill the pot space with new soil.
We add fertilizer.

Important: during the flowering period of Kalanchoe Laciniata can not be transplanted.

Adaptation after transplantation usually does not last long - 1 - 2 weeks. The pot is shallow, as Kalanchoe Laciniata has a weak root system. Be sure to put a thick layer of drainage base on the bottom of a deep pot to prevent root rot.

Kalanchoe Laciniata loves bright light, like any representative of the tropics. Therefore, you can install pots with a plant on any windowsill. Only the northern location of the Kalanchoe pot should be excluded. Here you will need additional lighting with special phyto lamps. Especially in winter and autumn, when the daylight hours are shortened and the air temperature is lowered.

After a long winter, when there is not enough sun, cloudy days prevail, it is not recommended to immediately expose the pots to the spring sun. Gradually "tame" Kalanchoe Laciniata to bright sunlight to avoid burns on leaves and flowers.

You can not keep the pot in partial shade for a long time, Kalanchoe Laciniata will begin to wither, it needs sunlight.

A feature of Kalanchoe Laciniata is that it is very resistant to dryness, it can be grown near radiators in the autumn-winter period.

In summer, it is not necessary to spray the leaves. Only on the hottest and hottest days you can sprinkle a little cool water. Constant spraying of Kalanchoe Laciniata does not require.

Soil Requirements

The substrate is best purchased at the store, marked - for succulents or cacti.

For the first option you will need:

sod land - 1 part;
leaf ground - 1 part;
coarse river sand - 1 part;
vermiculite - 1/4 part.

You can also use:

universal soil - 2 parts;
coconut substrate -1 part;
vermiculite - 1 part;
humus - 1 part.

Another substrate option:

light loam -1 part;
coconut substrate -1 part;
zeolite cat litter - 1 part.

Important: you can add pieces of birch charcoal, humus to the substrate. Drainage from expanded clay of medium pieces is required.

Diseases and pests

Most Common Problems

These diseases are usually caused by improper flower maintenance.

Kalanchoe Laciniata can get sick if it doesn't get enough light. Symptoms: leaves turn pale, turn yellowish and fall off.
If the leaves began to wrinkle and fall off - there is little moisture and the temperature in the room is too high. It is required to normalize the temperature and humidity of the air.
If the long-awaited flowering does not occur, it means that Kalanchoe is oversaturated with organic fertilizers, feeding should be stopped for a while.
After flowering, Kalanchoe Laciniata may slow down in growth, begin to become bare, this is a sign of a lack of nutrition. You can fertilize or renew, transplant a flower.
Avoid stagnant humidity in the room and substrate. This usually results in gray mold. Signs: leaves become covered with brown, and then black spots.

reproduction

Kalanchoe Laciniata is propagated by children, cuttings and seeds. Most often, cuttings are used - this is the easiest way to propagate at home, it is suitable even for a beginner grower.

cuttings

We combine reproduction with transplantation.
Strong shoots up to 6 cm are selected.
We cut off the stalk along with the aerial root.
We dry the seedling a little.
Cut cuttings are planted in a moist substrate, sand or agroperlite.
Cuttings take root in 1 - 2 weeks.

Advice: Kalanchoe Laciniata is fast growing and easy to root. It is desirable to do the procedure in spring or summer, then the adaptation is easy and painless.

The process is long and requires patience and certain skills in breeding flowers.

The peculiarity of the tropical Kalanchoe Laciniata is that the flower grows very quickly and requires a little attention. With proper care, in addition to intricate greenery, you can admire the modest flowering of Kalanchoe - bright, pale yellow flowers - bells.

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We are used to thinking of ferns as plants with openwork leaves resembling a green veil. But among the huge variety of ferns, there is one that does not correspond to this image at all. Its huge leaves are devoid of openwork grace, but no less attractive. They resemble the spreading antlers of a deer or even an elk! The name of this natural wonder is platicerium.

Platicerium: biological description

Platiceriums are a separate genus of ferns, in which there are 17 species. The extremely unusual external shape has led to the fact that these ferns are often called "deer horn", or "flathorn". Actually, the name itself can be translated from Latin as "wide horn".

It is difficult now to say exactly where the historical homeland of this genus is located. Many researchers call Australia in this capacity, although, apparently, its species have long since spread in the zone of tropical rainforests of Africa and the Hindustan Peninsula.

All platiceriums are typical epiphytes: they live on trees, firmly pressed against the trunk of the host with tenacious roots, and as if “embracing” it with wide, dense leaves. These leaves are sterile, they serve only as a support for the plant. In the upper part, sterile leaves form a characteristic funnel, where everything falls - from small twigs to dry foliage, insects and dead bark. All this mass gradually rots inside the funnel, forming a nutrient mixture for the platicerium.

Interesting! In nature, there were huge ferns, in which up to a centner of such a nutrient substrate accumulated inside the funnel!

Well, the legendary "horns" of platicerium are spore-bearing leaves that any fern on Earth has. But even here the antler flower stood out! Its spores do not form sori, as in other ferns, but are simply scattered over the underside of the leaf, coloring it slightly reddish.

All types of platiceriums live in tropical rainforest conditions, which must be taken into account when keeping at home. Each of the specimens can grow for years, sometimes reaching impressive sizes.

In indoor floriculture, only 4 species of these plants are used.

Platycerium bifurcatum (Platycerium bifurcatum).

It is this species that is most often found in the collections of flower growers. And if people often argue about whose horns the leaves of platicerium look like - deer or elk, then in the case of this species, the conclusion is unequivocal: elk. Its leaves are wide, rounded, divided into separate lobes along the edges. The upper part of the green leaves has a slightly bluish tint. The homeland of the species is the forests of Australia.

Angolan platycerium (Platycerium angolense).

It is often called flat-horned. The leaves are inferior in size to the previous species, moreover, they are rather triangular in shape, the edges of the leaves are not dissected, but only slightly jagged. One of the most moisture-loving species, it is not easy to keep it.

Large platycerium (Platycerium grande)

It is distinguished by large sterile leaves and elongated spore-bearing fronds, up to half dissected into strips resembling wide belts. These wai sometimes reach a meter length, and the "belts" hang down, giving the plant a high decorative effect.

Hill's Platycerium (Platycerium Hillii Moore)

It is very reminiscent of a reduced copy of a two-forked platicerium. Its leaves are less dissected along the edges, often the segments are slightly pointed. Spores are not scattered over the entire surface, but are grouped into small oval spots.

Conditions and care for outlandish ferns

Generally speaking, caring for the platicerium cannot be called simple. Although the plants look great, especially in a separate hanging planter, reminiscent of a successful hunter's trophy. But if a hunter has to kill an animal to get a trophy, then the platicerium will decorate the room with its “horns” without any violence against wildlife.

Lighting

It should be bright, but without direct sunlight on the leaves. If the fern pot is on a windowsill, an east or west window orientation is perfect.

Interesting! It has been noticed that the longer the fronds of the plant, the more photophilous it is. On the contrary, species with short spore-bearing leaves tolerate a lack of light better.

When the plant lacks light, its leaves become thin, lose elasticity, hang down, and their color becomes darker.

Temperature

During the active vegetation of the platicerium, the temperature in the room should be between +20°C and +25°C. Its increase entails the need to increase the humidity of the air, and its decrease can lead to rotting of the roots. In winter, you can slightly reduce the temperature, usually to + 14-17 ° C.

However, much depends on the type of platicerium. For example, P. bifurcated calmly tolerates a drop in temperature to + 5 ° C, while P. large can hardly withstand even "cold" at + 16 ° C.

Air humidity

This is the most difficult element in the care of the "deer antler". The humidity of the ambient air should always be increased, preferably up to 80%. At the same time, large wai can be sprayed only with finely dispersed drops. Large drops will flow down the tiny hairs that cover the surface of the leaf, practically without wetting it.

Wiping the leaves of platyceriums with a damp cloth is also highly undesirable, because in this case the villi will be destroyed, and this is unacceptable. The best way to raise the humidity is to run a humidifier, or have a tray of wet expanded clay near the pot. If the air in the room remains dry for a long time, this will negatively affect the condition of the fern.

Watering and fertilizing

It is best to water platiceriums by immersing the container in a basin of water, as is customary with orchids. The water should be soft, preferably slightly warm. After such abundant watering, you need to wait until the soil dries noticeably, and only then water again. This fern does not like constant moisture; its roots easily rot from excess water in the substrate.

Deer antlers are also fed with special fertilizers for orchids. They are usually used twice a month. If there are no such fertilizers, you can take the usual complex ones, only by reducing their concentration by half.

There are cases when the platicerium is grown without soil at all, on a block of bark. Then the frequency of feeding should be increased.

Soil features

In the case when the plant is in a pot, standard orchid substrates are used to root it. You can create a mixture yourself, it should have an acidity with a pH of 5.5-6. Roughly, you can take the following composition:

leaf ground - 1 part;
coarse sand - 1 part;
riding peat - 2 parts;
finely chopped pine bark - 0.5 parts;
crushed sphagnum moss - 0.5 parts;
crushed coal - a tablespoon per liter of the finished mixture.

The resulting substrate will be light, moisture-absorbing and breathable.

Platicerium transplant

It is carried out every 2-3 years, and in a small pot, since the roots of this plant are poorly developed. Be sure to arrange a powerful drainage layer at the bottom of the pot to prevent stagnation of moisture.

Sterile fern leaves platycerium tightly cover the pot, dying off over time. New ones grow in their place, but old, shrunken ones do not need to be removed - they also participate in the nutrition of the platicerium.

If the flower is grown on a block, its leaves will almost completely hide the bark over time. If possible, a layer of sphagnum is inserted between the bark and leaves.

Reproduction features

These ferns can be propagated either by spores (which is extremely rare in amateur floriculture), or by branching off shoots.

The sprouts of the platicerium usually appear at the base of the bush. To plant a new shoot, it must already have roots and at least three small leaves, including a sterile shield. Carefully, using a sharp knife, the baby is separated from the mother plant and planted in a new pot prepared in advance.

Attention! It is important to ensure that the growth bud is above the level of the substrate.

After transplanting, the baby needs to be covered with polyethylene for at least a week so that the plant takes root in this mini-greenhouse.

Diseases, pests and problems

If the fern leaves dry up, then the air in the room is too dry. Talking about how to care for a deer antler flower, this is the most common problem. Leaves that are too light indicate too much light, while leaves that are too dark indicate a lack of light. In both cases, the leaves also lose turgor.

You have to limit yourself when choosing plants. If earlier we were afraid that overseas curiosities would not withstand the severe frosts of our winter and tried to cover, insulate, protect them, now there is a new problem: summer heat and drought, which have to be taken into account. This means that all new items must be unpretentious and drought-resistant.

A little history of deer-horned sumac

The native of the New World is deer-horned sumac, or fluffy ( Rhus typhina L.), fascinates with its beauty: openwork crown, gracefully curved long foliage, shimmering in the wind with green hues.

Upon closer inspection, he is really covered in thick fluff "from head to toe."

Young shoots in velvet of light brown hairs look like the horns of a young deer.

Whitish pubescence covers the leaves from below, maroon - fruits. It is also called the vinegar tree. It was this name that took root in Germany - “essigbaum”, which means “vinegar tree” in German. It recalls that the American Indians once obtained acetic acid from the fruits of the plant.

Characteristic features of the deer-horned sumac tree

Sumac - a small tree up to 10 m high, often taking a bushy form, grows wild in southeastern Canada and the northeastern United States. This explains the French name for the plant sumac virginiana ( sumac de virginie).

In culture, it is common in most countries of the northern hemisphere. Such popularity of the tree was ensured by its exceptionally impressive appearance and useful properties.

The transparent crown of an adult plant has an elegant umbrella shape.

Compound pinnate leaves up to 60 cm long alternately sit on the shoots. Each consists of 11-31 smooth dark green elliptical or lanceolate leaflets about 12 cm long and 4 cm wide.

Deer-horned sumac - pleases all year round!

In autumn, sumac actively participates in the general riot of colors. The dark foliage gradually turns yellow and then adds anthocyanin redness, painting the plant intricately.

Having acquired a lace outfit in the spring, the trees bloom in early summer, throwing out large panicle inflorescences. In some trees, male, they consist of small greenish-light yellow staminate flowers. In others, women's, - from burgundy-red pistil. Male inflorescences are loose, up to 30 cm long, and female ones are dense, 25 cm long.

Already in September, the seeds ripen, but even when ripe, the seedlings remain on the tree for a long time.

In winter, you can see how their fluffy "horns" stick out from under the snow.

What is good about deer-horned sumac?

Drought resistance can be safely attributed to the advantages of deer-horned sumac. At home, it lives on the driest and stony soils.

In addition, the plant is also winter-hardy, shade-tolerant, undemanding to soil fertility - it grows successfully even on stony limestone unsuitable for agriculture, tolerates salinization.

Among the shortcomings can be called only fragility. By the age of twenty, the trees become decrepit and soon die. True, sumac quickly recovers from root shoots and root offspring.

Fragrant sumac - decoration of your garden

There is another type of sumac that deserves special attention - fragrant sumac (R. aromatica Ait.) is a lovely plant with fragrant flowers and branches. Its open crown grows up to 1-3 m in height.

The bark of the shoots is reddish-brown, cracking into thin light stripes.

In the first half of May, at the same time as the leaves bloom, small pretty golden “balls” of dense spike-shaped inflorescences appear at the ends of the shoots.

Each of the three leaves of the compound leaf turns bright carmine in the light and yellow in the shade in autumn. Spectacular hairy flat-round fruits up to 6 mm long ripen on the branches to match them.

Beautiful and unpretentious

All sumacs are unusually ornamental plants, photophilous, moderately frost-resistant, drought-resistant, undemanding to soils.

Well propagated by seeds, root shoots.