Do-it-yourself milling table - the experience of FORUMHOUSE users. Make a lift for the router yourself, or buy a ready-made one? We answer this question Elevator for a plywood router

“Labels are not important, consumer properties, convenience and reliability are important. At the same time, the most important reliability is the reliability of your supplier.” © (经验丰富的圣人)*

Preface.

One good man said: “My, purely personal opinion, any lift on a milling table is a beautiful, but not necessary, “lotion.” Much more important is the possibility of very quick installation(removing) the router onto the table (from the table). To do this, I only need to unscrew one “lamb.” Perhaps someone enjoys and finds it convenient to carry a router from the table to and from the table. Just as it is probably convenient to inflate a wheel, having the pleasure of removing a wheel from a car is also convenient. But there are other opinions about what a milling lift is and what a convenient milling table is in general.

A milling elevator is not a pretty gadget, but an extremely useful and easy-to-use design, device and tool. Best models milling elevators help to very quickly raise and lower the router in the table, quickly change the cutter and quickly, simply and very accurately set working height cutters. In this case, there is no need to remove the router from the table at all, except for cases when you use one router for all occasions. But the lift has nothing to do with removing and installing the router into the table. Although I can’t help but notice here that having one set of wheels for two cars will probably also seem convenient to someone.

What is a milling table?

Milling table(or table for a router) is a structure consisting of a table base and a tabletop (table surface) with a router installed in it. In this case, the router, in most cases, is located vertically, that is, the collet with the router is facing upward, although there are designs of milling tables with a horizontal position of the router and tables with the ability to tilt the router. Here we look at a milling table with a vertical router in it.

It is quite possible to make a table for a router with your own hands, but it is advisable to know about existing ready-made solutions. Making a router table with your own hands does not mean at all that you have to make a router yourself or rack your brains over how to make a lift for the router yourself. There are both ready-made accessories for the router and ready-made components from which you can assemble your own milling table.

A complete set of accessories that make up a milling table with a vertical router can consist of:

Router table base
Surfaces of the milling table (so-called tabletops)
Profile with two T-slots for attaching accessories to the router table
Milling elevator
A milling cutter of sufficiently high power suitable for this elevator
Set of collets for router
kit (they cover the large hole in the elevator plate, leaving a hole for the cutter
A table guide with two movable halves (possibly used as a guide)
(height of the cutter relative to the table surface)
Workpiece clamps in 2 planes
Angle stop
Movable table
Milling table power supply systems

All of the listed elements will be described in detail below in the article.

Router table base

The milling table base can be purchased from us or can be made by the user himself. This is the simplest part of the design allowing for a wide range of personal creativity.

The base of the milling table can be a simple homemade design, for example, from plywood, aluminum or steel profiles. We invite you to consider ordering from us a milling table base made using carpentry technology. It will be beautiful table with many drawers, with an integrated tabletop, the table will be able to move on wheels. People who have already seen these tables said that this is not a milling table for a workshop, but an object beautiful furniture. Being confident that it is more pleasant to work in a beautiful environment, and beautiful tools produce more beautiful products, we recommend paying attention to this solution. The design of such a table can be edited based on your wishes, but, in principle, it will be beautiful, well made, mainly from solid wood.

The surface of the milling table (tabletop) can be made of aluminum, steel, cast iron, laminated MDF or reinforced carbolite. There are solutions based on artificial or natural stone. Each of these materials has its own advantages. The best in terms of all its characteristics is glass fiber reinforced carbolite - the material is stable, even, durable, with a smooth surface.

If you buy a ready-made countertop and intend to install a milling lift into it, you need to keep in mind that the milling lift you choose must match the cutout in the countertop.

The advantages of a finished countertop are:

a ready-made solution that allows you to immediately assemble the milling table and start working
high quality workmanship and tabletop materials

If you prefer to make your own countertop, then the simplest option would be an MDF sheet, preferably HDF, 35-40 mm thick, laminated with plastic. The tabletop can also be made of stone or wood. The advantages of a homemade countertop are:

free choice of milling table top size
free choice of it color scheme
free choice of tabletop material

If you prefer self-production tabletops or order this production, then pay attention to the possibility of installation on a tabletop - even if you don’t have one yet, this is not excluded in the future.

IN homemade tabletop, on its upper plane, it will be necessary to make a recess in the shape of the milling elevator plate. We offer our customers a milling table kit to use the template for free to make a sample or make a copy of this template for further independent use.

We recommend and offer ready-made countertops made of laminated MDF or reinforced carbolite in sizes 600 x 800 mm and 700 x 1100 mm (dimensions are approximate, exact dimensions can be found when ordering). These countertops will already have a sample made to exactly match the plate of the milling lifts we offer. These worktops will also already have three profiles installed: two for attaching the guide and one for attaching routing accessories.

T-slot profile

In both cases, you get the opportunity to accurately align two halves of the guide in one plane, the ability to extend one half relative to the other, for example, for jointing. In both cases, you get aluminum profile guides with parallel movement of the guide halves,

When using a positioner, you get the opportunity for absolutely accurate, precision, smooth, repeatable movement and positioning of the guide with significantly greater functionality. You can read more about this solution.

Cutter reach height indicator

If you decide to purchase a milling table for yourself, then initially define the goal as purchasing a complete set for a milling table, then the means and methods - buy everything at once or in stages, starting with the essentials so that you can start working, then purchasing additional additions to obtain full-featured kit. We recommend that you choose this path from the very beginning.

If you decide to purchase a router table kit with our help, we will do the job with pleasure and responsibly. With pleasure - because we are pleased that the “shelf” of users quality instrument arrived.

The purchasing procedure with our help is very simple:

We come to a decision on the necessary kit
We calculate the total price including all expenses
You pay us this amount
We will organize everything necessary for purchase/payment/checking and delivery to Russia
We inform you about the arrival of the goods
If necessary, we send the goods to your city.

Buyers interested in this article also expressed interest in the following information:

*Note.

The original literally says “Clothes and jewelry are nonsense and tinsel, what matters is how much you need the thing (service, advice), how it is useful to you and how long it will serve you. The most important thing is that you chose this thing (or service) after hearing a cry rogue or did you listen to the advice of a sage? Only a sage will advise you what will not cause you troubles and problems.” © (经验丰富的圣人)

Evgeniy Fuks

To get professional result you need a router table and a lift, router, bit and they don't have to cost a fortune or weigh a ton. My version of the milling table is 25 mm thick plywood, which does not require a cabinet or cabinets below and is attached to the workbench with clamps. The project has an adjustable lift and a stop with a dust collector.

How to make a router table and a lift for a router.

Milling table and elevator, these are the first works on the milling table and they consist of preparing a place for the router and two metal rods for the elevator. Notice in the photos that instead of mounting the router on removable plates, I use the two metal guide rods that come standard with the tool. The base of the router is installed in a deep niche; the depth of the niche is equal to 3/4 of the thickness of the base. The grooves for the rods match the size

ASSEMBLY OF MILLER ELEVATOR.

The router lift consists of an open frame mounted on one of the mounting blocks. A nut is installed on the frame through which the threaded rod rotates using a round disk (Fig. 5,6). The manufacture of the elevator begins with the manufacture of the frame (positions 3, 4, 5, 6 and 10) (Fig. 4). In order to prevent rotation of the elevator clamping bar (Fig.7)

around the router (position 10) (Fig. 4), in top part four screws are screwed into the router and they are aligned with the holes in clamping bar elevator

CREATING STOP.

Making the stop is not difficult. Prepare the vertical and horizontal bases (positions 11 and 12) (Fig. 4). Using a drill, jigsaw or router, form slots in the bases (Fig. 9). Make four triangular strips (item 13) (Fig. 4) to stiffen the stop. You are ready to assemble the stop, connect the prepared parts together (Fig. 11). The ends of the auxiliary pads (item 14) (Fig. 4) for the stop, cut at an angle of 45°. Drill through holes for bolts in each trim. Install the pads on the vertical support base and secure with bolts, washers and nuts (item 17) (Fig. 4). And lastly, the dust collector (position 15) (Fig. 4) is needed or not - it’s up to you to decide. Cut it to size, bevel the ends for a tighter fit. Cut a hole in the dust collector bar that matches the diameter of the hose nozzle. Connect the dust collector bar and the stop using the curtain (position 16) (Fig. 4).

AT THE FINAL STAGE.

Many people write that for precision machining, each cutter must use a hole corresponding to the diameter of the cutter. A large diameter cutter is used, which means it requires a large hole in the base of the table. If you really want, make insert rings of different diameters, although these rings are optional and you can work with one big hole drilled into the base of the table (Fig. 4). Basically, in a hole with a diameter of 32 mm. will accommodate cutters of different diameters. I note that during the processing of products without insert rings, no major flaws were noticed that could not be eliminated with the help of sandpaper. At the final stage, carefully sand the parts and apply several layers of durable coating.

Every craftsman who works with wood knows how inconvenient it is and how many unnecessary actions have to be performed to set the desired cutter height when working with a hand router, or to replace one cutter with another. To do this, you even have to remove the router from the table.

In order to significantly facilitate this task, a special device called milling elevator, which is, in fact, the “third hand of the master”, which helps regulate this process.

Currently on sale large number the most various models milling elevators. The best elevators are made in the USA and are quite expensive.

Not long ago, in one of the woodworking magazines, the design of a homemade elevator was shown, designed for hand router. This design will allow you to quite accurately adjust the height of the cutter, and make it yourself for good master will not be difficult. Besides there is detailed photo With detailed description the entire process of producing such a model.

First of all, you need to make a disk 18 mm thick, on which the router will be attached. Now, using a Forstner drill with a diameter of 20 mm, we drill a recess with a depth of 13 mm in the center of the disk, then a through hole with a diameter of 10 mm.

We install an M10 threaded rod into the hole we drilled and secure it with two nuts and washers. Select the length of the stud so that the vertical stroke of the router is about 5 cm. Just above the middle of the stud we install a flywheel for adjustment; for fastening we use a nut with a washer and a flange nut. We will attach the flange nut to the stud using epoxy glue.

Finally, install the plywood bottom into the table, positioning it about 75mm from the bottom ends of the legs, insert the flange nut into it and screw the bottom end of the stud into it. Now, when the flywheel rotates, the entire structure will rise or fall relative to the flange nut fixed in the bottom. If you use a standard M10 stud with a thread pitch of 1.5 mm, when turning the wheel one turn, the amount of movement of the router will be 1.5 mm, by half a turn - 0.75 mm, etc.

IKEA kitchens in the interior: practical and convenient

Design plays an important role in kitchen design kitchen set. For small rooms, custom-made kitchens are best suited, taking into account all the features and inconveniences of the room layout, but IKEA kitchens in the interior small room will not look.

Residential complex Podkova

The Podkova residential complex is located in the Vsevolozhsk district. Its developer is “Russian Fairy Tale” together with “Arsenal-Real Estate” and “Polis Group”. Construction of this facility began in 2012. The complex will be built on the picturesque shore of the lake, just a couple of minutes walk from the Ocher River.

Accessories for hand router

Lift for a router made from a clamp

If you regularly use a router mounted on a router table, you know how difficult it is to adjust and adjust the height of the bit in the router. There are milling elevators for lifting the router, but they are usually quite expensive. So I created a simple homemade router lift from available materials. This lift saves a ton of time and I find that all adjustments with a router are much easier to make effortlessly using a lift mounted under the router table.

To make the elevator I took steel pipe 3/4 in diameter? (nipple length will depend on the size of your router) then made a miter coupler and a second 3/4 nipple? connected to a flange (nipple length will also depend on the size of your router table) as shown in the drawing below.

Then I did wooden base to support the router. I drilled a 3/4? hole in the base. This hole allows the base to slide smoothly over the nipple. The clamp is screwed to the base and serves as an adjustment mechanism. I then installed the router lift under the router table (see photo).

To get maximum adjustment, be sure to set the router lift to its lowest position. The curved handle of the clamp makes it easy to adjust the router and move up and down the steel nipple. This makes it easy to adjust the router to any position you need.

Lift for a router from a spark plug key

The lift for the router is extremely important and useful device. It's fast and convenient way adjust the cutting height of the cutter.

Do-it-yourself elevator for a milling table: design and assembly

Correctly setting the cutting depth will not only create cutting accuracy, but will also simplify the adjustment of product joints.

I made the lift for the router from a regular spark plug wrench for a car and a nut of a suitable size. The nut must match external size spark plug wrench, and the inner diameter of the nut is the size of the bolt used.

Using nylon or other soft material, drive the nut into the bottom of the key. Handle on back side I made a spark plug wrench for ease of adjustment. A nylon retaining ring between the nut and the base of the router will help prevent spontaneous free rotation during operation.

This router lift can be used on various hand routers such as Hitachi, Festos, Mafells, Dewalt, as well as small Bosch models.

An essential requirement is that you need to consider the location of the bolt on the base of the hand router, its length and easy access during operation.

Note: The easiest way is to use a nut with a nylon insert inside the key.

Compiled by Patlakh V.V.
http://patlah.ru

Make a lift for the router yourself, or buy a ready-made one? Let's answer this question.

When using a hand router installed in stationary table, two questions arise:

How to adjust the depth of immersion (extension) of a cutter.
How to quickly change replacement tips.

Unscrewing the tool from the plate every time is too troublesome. In addition, a statically mounted router works in the workpiece only at a fixed depth.

This problem is solved by installing a height-adjustable suspension on the router. And once you were able to make a full-fledged milling table, installing an elevator of your own design is not difficult at all. In addition, a self-made device is developed taking into account all the requirements of the master, even those that are not provided for by the factory device.

Why do you need a lift on the milling table, and is it possible to do without it?

This useful device is called the third hand of the master. Those who have tried a milling cutter with a microlift are finding new applications for it:

Maintaining a power tool is not difficult, as is quickly changing cutters.
You can change the cutter reach height in a matter of seconds, and most importantly – safely.
You can change the immersion depth “dynamically”, simultaneously with the movement of the workpiece on the table. This expands creativity.
Due to the fact that you no longer regularly dismantle the tool for maintenance, the plate and its fasteners are subject to less wear.

Buy or make it yourself?

There is a wide choice of offers on the power tool market. Industrial microlifts look good and work without failures, but their cost is the same as that of a new router. True, the device is quite well equipped. The kit includes rings for the copy sleeves, and a very high quality mounting plate.

Industrial microlift for a router with a set of copy rings

All that remains is to electrify the device - and you can get a CNC machine. There is only one drawback, but it outweighs all the advantages - the price itself. Therefore for periodic home use this is an unaffordable luxury. So our Kulibins make whatever they can. However, there is a lot to learn from them.

There are quite primitive lever-type designs

Homemade elevator design with a lever mechanism

This technique even allows the use of a “foot” drive. It is not suitable for precise reach settings, but with the help of a similar mechanism you can raise the router in one motion working position, and it’s just as easy to lower it for changing attachments or servicing. This elevator has a fairly long stroke; it does not allow for adjustable milling. Materials for production are literally lying underfoot, the cost tends to zero.

Using a Screw Adjuster

Another example of a homemade elevator for a router

The design is more advanced and allows relatively precise adjustment of the reach. However, using such a microlift is inconvenient; to rotate the handle, you need to crawl under the table, and then make a control measurement of the height of the cutter. But the reliability is high, and production does not require expensive materials. Such an elevator can be made “by eye” without using drawings.

The following flywheel design not only makes it possible to precisely adjust the reach in small increments within 50 mm, but is also quite convenient.

Lifting design with flywheel

It will take more time to make, but the result is worth it. The flywheel allows you to adjust the height of the cutter while simultaneously visually controlling it work surface. In principle, it is already possible to dynamically change the cutter offset.

The main advantage is the still low cost of components for manufacturing, with increased functionality. Instead of a flywheel, you can install a gear and a motor with a gearbox. But this will require additional costs.

Option with car jack

Quite expensive, since at a minimum you need to purchase a jack.

LIFT FOR MILLER. ANYONE. WITH EXPLOSION DIAGRAM using the example of festool 1400 (ROUTER LIFT)

Diamond-shaped designs are ideal.

Using a screw jack as a lift for a router is also possible

This microlift lift is reliable, and thanks to the handle located parallel to the tabletop, it is convenient and quite accurate.

Positioning the mount is quite simple. It is enough to install a strong shelf parallel to the tabletop.
An electric drive option is available.

Then, in general, you can install foot pedal, and release both hands. And if you add a programmer to all this, here you have it. homemade router with CNC.
However, this goes beyond the concept of an economy class device.

Option from an advanced master

Since the possibilities of a craftsman are limitless, you can come across completely unexpected designs. This microlift is made using the very same router for which it is intended.

Original elevator design made by hand

The design involves not only precise adjustment of the reach, but also changing the angle of inclination of the router axis. With this potential, you can significantly expand your woodworking tasks.
The drive of the worm gear of the stud – the height regulator – was originally designed.

Gears (gears) are made using the dovetail method. This allows the gears to be moved outside the mechanism, eliminating the need for lubrication, and making adjustment smooth.
Material used – moisture resistant plywood 20-25 mm thick. The microlift is executed with such high quality - that I would like to suggest that the author organize industrial production.
Of course, such a design requires a preliminary drawing.

Assembly drawing in 3D for a microlift

Moreover, it was made using a three-dimensional modeling program. Making such a device is painstaking work. But the financial side of the issue is the cost of a sheet of plywood and a screw stud. When performing custom work, this design will quickly pay for itself.

The verdict on this topic is as follows: when using a homemade milling table, you cannot do without a microlift. Other designs, such as a quick-release plate for a router or a hinged table cover, are only suitable for servicing power tools. And for precise positioning of the cutter above the table, you need a microlift.

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Project from Victor Traveller. The milling table is shown in the first photo, but in this article we will not talk about it, but about its component - the milling elevator - it is mounted under the table top

The elevator material is plywood with a piece of laminated chipboard, a hairpin, several nuts of the appropriate size, and several self-tapping screws.

A small box is assembled from pieces of plywood. A plywood “cube” is mounted in it with a nut pressed into it and cylinders (a piece of wire) protruding from it on both sides.

The driver is made from a piece of laminated chipboard, into the center of which a driving nut and a handle are pressed.

Bottom view of the support mechanism. In it we also see a nut with a washer. Now let's move on to the router itself (Interskol FM 32/1900E). It is fixed on the tabletop as standard (for example, I did it). A kind of rocker arm is attached to the wall. It is fixed to one wall with a pair of corners. The rocker itself is represented by a pair of parallel bars connected to each other by a smooth jumper (a piece of laminated parquet) with recessed screws.

Another view from the front. Pay attention to the recess between the “legs” of the rocker arm (under the lower nut of the elevator box).

We lift the rocker arm (together with the head of the router) and place a lift under its legs, placing them on the protrusions of the “cube”. In this case, the width of the legs corresponds to the gap between the inner surface of the box and the outer surface of the cube.

That is, when the gate rotates, the cube does not rotate, but rises through rotation, raising the “yoke”.

The advantage of this elevator is that it is moved beyond the plane of the router itself, closer to the user. (another closer photo)

I'm thinking about making one myself.