All about knives. Making a folding knife Beautiful folding knife with your own hands
DIY folding knife. How to make a folding knife with your own hands. DIY folding knife drawings. Friction folding knife. Author. Hello everyone, I present to your attention photos step-by-step production friction type folding knife. Master class It’s hard to call it a tutorial, a lot is missing. Friction folding knives are common in countries where knives with locking locks are prohibited. Knives of this type are widely used by European knife makers.
If, like me, we don’t know how to use Corel, we draw for a long time and tediously with our hands. cut out of cardboard - fold and unfold
The clutch has characteristic feature- a long tail protruding beyond the dimensions of the handle when folded, the principle of operation of such a knife is simple, in the frame of the knife there is a locking pin into which the tail of the blade rests when unfolded, and a special recess in the blade when folded so that the edge of the blade does not touch the insides of the frame . Well then, to the point:
Making a blade requires a separate master class. The axle and sliding washers are from an unknown Chinese folding unit.
we cut them out with a grinder, transfer the centers of all the holes from the drawing to the blade, and drill them, pressing the blade to the die, drill holes through the blade, first in one, and then through one in the other.
We cut a groove between the locking holes, in my case with a grinder, ideally with a router
let's estimate the assembly once
From thick stainless steel (5mm) we cut out a spacer into the back of the handle
we carefully consider this whole thing many times, we spit and swear
we attach the spacer to the dies, drill, insert pins, rivet, grind the tops of the heads flush
We make bevels on the blade roughly, hardening and tempering, we remove bevels to zero + on the diamond on top, rough assembly
hand sanding, etching. The etching process is also missed because this needs to be done separately by MK.
We finally tighten the axial screw with cyanoacrylate fixation, roughly saw out the lining with a spare, and drill recesses for the axle heads.
we glue one die, through the frame we drill holes in the die for the stop pin, and pins in the backplate, similarly we glue the second die and through the first we drill in the right places, glue the pins, and roughly grind them.
glue in the locking pin, cut it off and grind the lining closer to the desired shape
in intimate places where it cannot be removed with a grinder (for example), we remove it with a Dremel.
you can matte all metal elements, although this is unnecessary
As you can see, at the beginning of the process I had an axial screw from a Chinese folding frame, but during the manufacturing process I lost it, and I had to quickly make it out of anything. I did not remove this. It is better to do the etching process as a separate MK, because There are many nuances that are important. In general, I missed a lot, I didn’t have enough hands. Article taken from the original source http://forum.zadi.ru/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=11774 Here are some photos of the finished knife.
In the simplest models, the blade is not locked in the open position: it will fold if you press it quite hard in the appropriate direction. This is how a classic pocket penknife works. In English literature, a knife equipped with a similar mechanism is called slip joint folder, or a folding knife with a sliding joint (more like a joint).
I could not find the corresponding Polish term. Well, okay, it doesn’t matter what it’s called scientifically; what matters is how it works. A spring, attached with one end to the upper edge of the handle, with its other end presses on the disc-shaped surface of the back of the blade. And this surface is designed in such a way that both opening and folding the knife causes the spring to bend or unbend; at the same time, it provides a certain resistance, which allows you to hold the knife either in the open or closed position (Fig. ). But if in the folded state the spring holds the blade quite reliably, then in the open position such a knife cannot be called one hundred percent safe. In practice, you have little to fear if you only use the knife for light, well-controlled cutting—for example, opening correspondence or sharpening pencils. Perhaps this is why such models are becoming a thing of the past; few of them are produced now. Even typical multifunctional pocket knives are now increasingly equipped with mechanisms that allow them to be held in open position at least one, the largest (main) blade.
Manufacturing should begin directly with the blade. First of all, mark the place for the axial hole. We drill it and, using it as a guide, we make further markings of the blade. If you do the opposite and mark and cut the blade along the contour, and only then drill a hole, then during the drilling process, especially in hardened workpieces, the drill can move to the side and all dimensions will “float away”.
Having transferred the contours of the blade to the workpiece, we begin to make the blade. We grind it using a grinder and sandpaper along the contour. For the convenience of holding the blade during the process of removing the slopes, we do not yet cut off the blade itself from the workpiece and do not form the heel of the blade.
To remove descents you can use various instruments: grinders, emery machines, flat grinders, grinders. I do rough grinding of the slopes on sandpaper and fine grinding on a surface grinder.
Next, we begin making the side dies.
Next, drill a hole in the dies for the blade stopper pin, install the axis and stopper pin, install the blade and the second die. We move the blade to the open position and mark on the die the position of the heel of the blade, or rather the place where the lock liner should rest. Next, mark the liner and start cutting it out.
Having prepared the pritins in this way, we proceed to install them on the dies. There are different methods: soldering, riveting, spot welding etc. The most accessible are soldering and riveting.
For soldering you will need a soldering iron, soldering acid, solder and a heat source. As a soldering iron, it is best to use a massive piece of copper, which is heated in the flame of a burner. Soldering acid is hydrochloric acid etched with zinc. POS-60, POS-90 are suitable as solder. Before soldering, it is necessary to clean and tin the soldering areas. Cleaned with sandpaper and a file. After cleaning, coat the soldering areas with acid, take a piece of solder on a well-heated soldering iron and tin the surface. During the tinning process, care must be taken to ensure that there are no gaps left and that the entire surface is covered. even layer solder. High-quality tinning and soldering are possible only with good heating of the parts.
After servicing, rinse the parts thoroughly in water and soda, removing any remaining acid. Next, we clamp the tinned parts in a vice and begin to heat them with a burner from different sides. To reduce heat loss, thermal insulating material must be laid under the jaws of the vice; fragments of ceramic tiles work well. As it warms up, we press the vice until droplets of solder appear between the parts, after which the heating can be stopped.
Soldering the right-hand prytina has features: first we solder the knife axis into the die, and then solder the pritina, while instead of one of ceramic tiles We use a piece of tube larger than the diameter axis.
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| So, all the components of the knife are ready, all that remains is to assemble the knife and once again make sure that the lock is working correctly. Adjust if necessary. For smoother operation of the mechanism, it should be lubricated with machine oil. After some time of operation, the parts of the mechanism will rub in, the blade will rotate easily and smoothly, and the liner plate will rise slightly upward. |
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You've finally decided to make your first folding knife. This is right. In any case, this gives me great pleasure, and the result inspires new creativity. Give it a try. You won't regret it anyway. Someone smart once said: “it’s better to do it and then regret it than to regret not doing it.”
Since you have already made up your mind, it means you have some design ideas. Let's assume that you have chosen a lock (Liner Lock), and this is one of the best knife locks. If not the best. It contains a minimum of parts, which means it has maximum reliability.
A little history. The modern linear lock was invented by Michael Walker in 1981. The most important thing Michael did was create independent system blade fixation, which has only one spring. The lock's leaf spring not only locks the blade in the open position, but also ensures it reliable fixation in closed.
In addition, this lock allows you to open and close the folding knife with one hand. This invention in the full sense of the word changed the face of the modern folding knife. Honor and praise to him for this.
Make a sketch of the future design on paper or in some graphics editor. For example, it turned out like this:
First of all, choose your materials. It is preferable for a blade, since if moisture gets inside a folding knife, the moisture is not so easy to remove. Therefore, if there is something to rust, it will rust. If there is a thermal operator capable of working with high-carbon alloyed stainless steels, then you are very lucky in life (at the level of happiness).
If not, you will have to work on hardened material, and this is not easy. To drill holes in hardened metal, I use ceramic and glass drills with an arrowhead tip. You need to work hard, at low speeds, but carefully. You can chip the drill. And, of course, monitor the heating of the part. Be sure to refrigerate frequently, otherwise it will release.
Give the desired shape to the blade. I have used blades from Tramontina Professional Master series knives several times. They are a little more expensive than regular kitchen appliances from this company, but they are made from Sandvik 12C27 or 1.4110 from Krupa. This is good steel.
For folding knife dies, I recommend titanium. Despite its small thickness, it is strong enough and has sufficient rigidity and springing properties. In addition, titanium is lightweight and does not rust at all. There are some peculiarities in titanium processing.
Titanium should be worked at low speeds. For example, I couldn’t cut a 4 mm plate with a grinder, but I could easily cut it with a hacksaw for metal, although it took a long time. The thread in titanium must be cut slowly, with oil, going back every 0.5-1 revolution.
To cut out the outline of the locking spring in the bottom die, at the place where it is supposed to end, I drill 3-4 holes with a diameter of 2.5 mm, connect them, and place them there hacksaw blade and forward. Slowly, almost to the hole for the axle. In this place, I also recommend drilling a small technological hole for a clear end of the cut. All that remains is to saw through the line of the stopper itself. Here it is necessary to leave a reserve, which is then removed when setting up the lock.
The second, upper, die has exactly the same dimensions (as a rule) as the lower one. But it must have a recess for a hole for opening the knife. All mating holes should be drilled in batches. Start with the holes for the axle. Do not forget that the diameter of the holes for the fastening screws in the lower die must be threaded, and in the upper one the diameter of the screw.
So everything is cut and drilled. Select, or make your own, two fluoroplastic or bronze washers that will be used as a bearing on the axis of rotation (folding) of the knife. Insert the axle into the bottom die, install the locking pin, washer, blade, and fold the future folding knife.
If something doesn't match, adjust it to the correct size. This must be done very carefully and carefully. Remember Zhvanetsky: “One careless movement: and you are a father.” Well, everything fits together!
On the locking spring of the lower die, mark a place for the ball and in this place drill a hole with a diameter 0.1-0.2 mm smaller than the diameter of the ball. I use balls with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm, from the bearing. Then, in a vice (placing a piece of hot metal under the ball, otherwise it will fit into the jaws of the vice), press the ball into the locking plate. The ball should protrude outward by approximately 0.5 mm. The thickness of the washer on the axis between the blade and the die.
Next, using a marker, draw in the place on the heel of the blade where the ball will move and fold/unfold the future folding knife several times. A clear mark from the ball will be visible on the blade. Stepping back 0.3-0.5 mm from the place where it (the trace) ends, drill a hole into which the ball will go in the folded position of the knife. Carefully bend the plate in the desired direction.
Assemble your future folding knife without the top die and adjust the lock (your stopper is cut out with a margin). Do this very carefully (remember Zhvanetsky). As soon as the lock engages, stop. Assemble the folding knife completely, with the top die, and try folding/unfolding it several times, apply force (as if cutting something). Do this several times. And put it off until tomorrow.
Final adjustment of the parts of a homemade folding knife.
Sleep with the idea that you have made your first folding knife. The next day there will definitely be something to finish. Bring the castle to condition. The locking plate should not reach the upper end of the heel cut of the blade, otherwise it will fall all the way to the top plate and jam the lock.
If the spring is too tight (depending on the thickness and brand of used
The knife is very useful tool, you can use it to defend yourself, sharpen a stick, cut sausage, or use it instead of a screwdriver if necessary. In order for a knife to always be with you, it must either have protective case, or must be folded. The second option is more convenient, since such a knife will be more compact and you will not be able to lose the case. Folding knives come in a wide variety of designs, we will look at the simplest of them.
The author decided to make the handle of his knife exclusively from wood. This material is accessible and easy to work with. The author used only hand tools. The main emphasis in the article is on making a handle. You can either find a blade ready-made from an old knife, or you can sharpen it yourself, it’s not difficult. So, let's start making a knife.
Materials and tools used
List of materials:
– blade blank;
– wooden board;
– steel rod (as an axis for the blade);
– wood glue;
– electrical tape;
– oil for impregnation.
List of tools:
– jigsaw;
– wood hacksaw;
– drill;
– marker;
– plane;
– sandpaper;
– files;
– vice;
– clamps.
Knife making process:
Step one. Cutting out blanks for the handle
To make a handle you will need a piece of board. You can use various breeds trees based on your preferences. But just remember that more hard rocks will be more difficult to process. We will cut the board lengthwise into two halves, and in the end we will get two blanks. Here you will need to correctly take into account the thickness of the board.
We apply the blade to the board and trace it. Now we know approximately how long the handle should be so that the blade can fit into it. Also consider the location of the locking pin and so on. Having done everything necessary calculations, clamp the board in a vice in vertical position and start cutting. The author first marks the cutting line using a jigsaw, and then a hacksaw with a wide blade comes to the rescue. Slowly, slowly, cut the board into two halves. Step two. We make and install the blade axis
Step three. Finalizing the handle halves
Step four. Internal spacer
Step five. Drilling holes for the axle
Step six. Bonding
We clamp the whole thing with several clamps and let the glue dry completely. Epoxy dries in about a day; wood glue should also take about the same amount of time. Step seven. Final processing
At the same step, you can sharpen the blade; fine sandpaper dipped in water is perfect for this. Step eight. Impregnation
That's all, the making of the knife has come to an end. As a result, we have a small, convenient pocket knife. Do not forget that the handle is made of wood, so the knife will not be able to withstand high loads on the blade. However, for most household work its strength should be sufficient. That's all, good luck and take care of yourself! Dec 21, 2018 Gennady
The blade is attached to the handle using one metal axis. We look for a rod of suitable diameter and cut off the required piece. We drill a hole in the blade of such a diameter that the axis fits tightly into the hole. The blade should not dangle on the axis.
After the board was sawn into two parts, we got two halves. Each of them needs to be thoroughly leveled and polished, since after cutting the parts will have a lot of irregularities. They can be leveled using a plane or by grinding, which is safer. Finally, sand the parts with sandpaper until they are perfectly smooth.
Between the two halves there is another piece of wood, with its help we get the required gap. We select the gap in accordance with the thickness of the blade. The main idea is for the blade to fit tightly into the handle and not fall out. There are no additional fasteners here. This part will also act as a stop for the blade. Use dense wood for this part, like oak, maple, and so on.
Attach the blade to the workpiece and drill holes for the axle. It should fit tightly into the part. Try to collect all the parts in a pile and make sure that all the parts are made correctly. The blade should not spontaneously fall out of the handle. If this is the case, you need to reduce the gap between the handle halves.
Epoxy glue is suitable for gluing, but the author decided to use wood glue, which is also quite sufficient here. Apply glue to the “spacer” on both sides, and then glue the halves to the sides. As for the axis on which the blade rests, it is highly advisable to apply epoxy glue to it before assembly, so that it will reliably stick to the handle. But be careful, if the glue sticks to the blade, you may not be able to open the knife after making it.
When the glue dries, remove the clamps. You now need to cut off the protruding parts of the axle; for this we use a hacksaw.
Finally, all you have to do is create the desired profile of your handle. This can be done manually, since the sizes are small. We take files and form the desired profile. Then we switch to sandpaper. Finally, we use the finest sandpaper to bring the product to perfection.
Wood is a very treacherous material; it instantly changes in size, cracks, and becomes deformed if moisture gets on it. To avoid these unpleasant consequences, the tree needs to be protected. It will save you here linseed oil or any others intended for wood processing. Do not use mineral oils because they don't dry out. We impregnate the handle everywhere, both outside and inside. Let the oil dry. You can also easily use varnish instead of oil.
