A box of drywall on the ceiling. How to make a drywall box on the ceiling and what features should be considered during installation. How to make a box on the ceiling

When drawing up a design project, great attention is always paid to ceilings. At the entrance to the apartment, it is on them that the gaze rushes. They can emphasize the individual design of the apartment, or refresh an existing one. Now it is no longer fashionable to have a simple white-painted ceiling in an apartment, or stretch ceilings have replaced it.
Making a ceiling with a plasterboard box and a stretch ceiling How to make a drywall box on the ceiling? This question is asked by many home craftsmen who want to make their interior beautiful and unusual. It is not difficult to make a design with your own hands, it is enough to know the basic installation steps. In addition, the cost of construction will be small

Installation of a drywall box on the ceiling, its type and dimensions depend on what function this design will perform. You hide communications or electrical wiring under it, or maybe it will be a beauty box. This design will not cost you much, since the material itself is inexpensive.

Diagram of the device with dimensions for mounting a drywall box on the ceiling

Many install, as it has many advantages. It gives the room coziness, refreshes the design and helps to additionally illuminate a separate area of the room, for example, above the computer desk. At the same time, you can make a stretch ceiling in the middle of the room.

Drywall is a versatile material and with its help you can build an ideal surface of any configuration. A good solution to make curvilinear, you can hide all the electrical wires in it. This method of arranging the ceiling has disadvantages - the design will take the height, so in low rooms it will not work to build a drywall box on the ceiling with your own hands.

Scheme of the device of the false ceiling and the box In addition, if you decide to build a complex structure, you will have to involve assistants. You can invite professionals, the cost of work will be around 300-500 rubles per sq.m.

What material is needed for a drywall box

To create a box, you need a ceiling plasterboard, the thickness of which is 9 mm. The strength of this material is quite enough if you do not plan to attach heavy objects to the surface.
GKL for wet areas such as kitchens and bathrooms should be. When buying the right amount of material, you need to add 5% to the total amount for unforeseen situations.

When buying a material, carefully inspect it for compliance, as drywall may be damaged during transportation.

The design of the drywall box: the main components

The metal crate is optimal for creating a box on the ceiling.

The construction of a metal crate The cost of profiles is not much different from wooden bars. Some home craftsmen try to save money and mount a wooden crate on the ceiling, but this method is not strong enough, and besides, the wood shrinks. With a temperature difference, wooden bars can “lead”.

Fastening drywall to the ceiling: important points

Experienced builders are advised to follow the step-by-step instructions for creating a box on the ceiling:

Step-by-step technology for attaching drywall to the ceiling

How to do the work of installing a drywall box on the ceiling is carried out in stages:

Buy a tool.
Prepare material.
Clean the surface.
Mark the location of the box.
Mount the crate of their profiles.
Sew up the frame with drywall.
Carry out the finishing of the structure.

Tools and accessories

What tool will you need:

construction knife for;
spatula;
level;
hammer drill;
screwdriver;
roulette;
metal scissors.

The scheme of fastening drywall to the ceiling Required material:

drywall;
guide profile;
rack profile;
brackets;
fasteners;
dowel nail;
self-tapping screws;
putty;
sickle;
priming;
perforated corner.

The principle of fastening drywall sheets to a false ceiling frame

Preparatory activities

It is impossible to start the installation of a drywall box without preparing the base base. The work must be done like this:

remove all old coating from the ceiling;
if there are many defects on the surface, they need to be plastered, large holes around the pipes should be foamed;
if electrical wiring runs along the ceiling, then it must be packed in a corrugation and fixed to the ceiling;
the surface must be coated with a primer;
before fixing drywall sheets, they need to be allowed to rest in the room for several days. The material must undergo adaptation to the temperature regime.

Frame - installation

How to assemble a drywall box on the ceiling - a frame. The work of assembling the corset must be done very carefully. Do not neglect the advice and rush.

Arranging the corner of the box frame It is better to spend more time right away than to waste material and time later on reworking. A large box is mounted immediately on the plasterboard ceiling, it must be rigid.

Sheathing the structure with plasterboard and sealing the seams

The first thing with which the sheathing begins is the cutting of GKL sheets, in accordance with the dimensions of the box. Further, a phased drywall fastening technology is produced, which is carried out as follows:

The box is ready - it remains to complete the finishing.

Finishing stage

The design of the drywall box on the ceiling can be seen in the photo on the website. An important stage, the quality of which depends on the beauty of the design. Home craftsmen may not know how to putty a drywall box. The video shows the process of making a plasterboard box on the ceiling.

The work is done like this:

It remains only to paint the drywall box on the ceiling.

Today, any room decorated in a modern style is oversaturated with a variety of designs that give it an individual and unique look. One such solution is the installation of plasterboard boxes on ceilings of various shapes and configurations.

Advantages and disadvantages

The plasterboard box not only complements the interior of the room in an original way, but also has the following advantages:

hides all the irregularities of the base surface, which most often cannot be masked without the use of tension or suspension structures;
does not require careful preparation of the draft ceiling space;
masks wiring and communications, ventilation system;
the box can have different shapes depending on the design project or its functional purpose
under such a system, you can install an LED strip or spot lighting;
in combination with stretch ceilings, the plasterboard system looks very impressive;
install the structure with your own hands. This will significantly reduce repair costs.

If we talk about the shortcomings, it should be noted that such a ceiling will take a few centimeters of height from the room, so it is not advisable to mount it in low rooms. Also, you can hardly make a curvilinear shape or a complex pattern from GKL on your own. Such work should be entrusted to professionals.

How to make a drywall box on the ceiling

If you are puzzled by installing a drywall box on the ceiling, it is advisable to first reproduce the idea on paper. So it will be easier for you to imagine the location of individual elements, decide on the materials, calculate their number.

To work, you need to purchase the following materials:

12.5 mm thick. Depending on the temperature and humidity in the room, select the required type of drywall (standard, moisture or fire resistant);
UD - profile (guide);
CD - carrier profile;
Elements of fasteners (dowels, self-tapping screws).

For the installation of lighting, you will need to purchase the appropriate devices - LED strip, spotlights. In addition, you will need finishing materials:

primer;
putty;
special corners made of aluminum or galvanized steel.

From the tools prepare:

screwdriver;
perforator;
profile cutting scissors;
building level;
improvised means for finishing work - rollers, brushes, spatulas.

Preparatory work

Before starting installation work, you will need to prepare the surface of the ceiling:

using a spatula, remove the previous finish from the base base;
repair all irregularities on the ceiling - seams, cracks, cracks, gaps;
place the wires in corrugations, fix them on the ceiling to prevent them from sagging;
coat the surface and bases of pipes with a primer layer. This will prevent rust.

GKL needs to be prepared. To do this, the sheets are brought into the room where the box is supposed to be mounted, placed horizontally and left in this position for several days so that they take the correct shape.

Since the drywall box is installed at a certain height, surface marking cannot be avoided. So it will not only be more convenient for you to work, but you will also be able to get a high-quality result.

First, the lower level of the structure is defined. Regardless of the location of each tier, if a multi-tier system is mounted (in the center, around the perimeter, etc.), the boundaries of all levels should be marked on the wall surface with a control line outlining the perimeter of the room. At this stage, it should already be known in advance what distance will be between the base base of the ceiling and the plasterboard, since it is in this niche that the hidden areas of spotlights are placed.

We act as follows:

we mark the base of the box, put points at the place where the suspensions and guides are attached;
be sure to take into account and mark communications, pipes, wiring and lighting elements.

If the design is of an irregular geometric shape, then a drawing is also first made, after which the drawing is transferred to the ceiling.

To make it convenient, you can make a preliminary markup on the floor, and then, using a laser level, move it upstairs.

The UD ceiling profile guide is fixed to the wall surface with dowels. To do this, you need to drill holes 6 mm wide in the ceiling with a puncher.

It will be much more convenient to construct the base of the frame under the box from the profile on the floor, and only then fix it under the ceiling. Be sure to check the evenness of the structure.

After the profile is finished, we begin to mount the suspensions, which we make ourselves from the guide profiles. They are easily cut with scissors for metal.

Important! The length of the hangers should be equal to the height of the drywall box. When taking measurements, consider the part of the profile that will bend inward.

The guides are fixed to the suspensions with self-tapping screws. It is very important that profile kinks do not form. Therefore, purchase only high-quality materials.

Next, we proceed to the collection of the lower part of the structure, namely, we connect the transverse profile with the lower one. We fasten the latter to suspensions, fill it with screws and fix the transverse strips with screws. They should be located in a perpendicular direction to the wall surface. We mount them on self-tapping screws with a step of 30-60 cm.

At the last stage of the installation of the frame, we carry out and fix the wires for future lighting devices, mark the positions of the spotlights.

After finishing the installation of the frame, we begin to assemble the drywall box. We act as follows:

we cut the drywall sheet into pieces of the required size, immediately making holes in the material for spot lighting;
it is better to fix the elements immediately with the lamps built into them;
fix the parts in such a way that they do not go beyond the edges of each other. Otherwise, you will have to waste time and cut off the extra parts;
fasten the sheets to the frame on self-tapping screws with a length of at least 3.5-4 cm in increments of 2-2.5 cm. This will provide the structure with additional reliability. At the same time, the head of the self-tapping screw should be “drowned” into the material by 3-5 mm.

After the box on the ceiling is ready, we proceed to its decoration. First, fix the metal corners, then seal the holes from the screws with putty and apply the putty in an even layer of 2-3 mm on the entire surface of the structure. After the ceiling box dries well, putty it again with a finishing compound, a layer thickness of not more than 1-1.5 mm. Clean the ceiling with fine-grained sandpaper. Before finishing, coat the surface with a deep penetration primer. It will improve the adhesive properties of the paint.

On a note! Starting and finishing putty for finishing plasterboard surfaces choose from one manufacturer. Otherwise, over time, different compositions may begin to flake off from each other.

Before you start making a box on the ceiling, it is very important to determine its dimensions. The standard width of a small drywall box is no more than 45 cm. This value will be enough to create a niche for curtains.

If you intend to install a box under a large closet, please note that the doors must be able to open and close freely.

The width and depth of the duct structure must be located at a distance from the heating radiators or located at least 4 cm from them. Equally important is the thickness and type of skin.

Installing a drywall box on a backlit ceiling is practically no different from installing a regular box. In this case, there are two main points:

holes are cut in advance in that part of the box where the devices need to be installed;
inside the structure you need to place wiring, access to which can be obtained at any time.

If, in addition to installing fixtures, it is planned to install a backlight from LEDs, you will need to additionally build a special relay into the box, with which you can change the degree of illumination of the room.

Determine the location of the fixtures at the design stage of the structure. Then you can pre-mark the drywall sheets, cut holes in them and install appliances. When planning lighting, focus on the quality of natural light in the room.

As you can see, installing a drywall box on the ceiling with your own hands is not difficult. The main thing is to follow the above recommendations, then the design will serve you for more than one year.

Design calculation

As already mentioned, to create a drywall box, you need to make its preliminary drawing, which indicates all the necessary parameters. Only in this case, the installation of the structure with your own hands will pass quickly and efficiently.

Drawing of a plasterboard box on the ceiling

Often, for small boxes, a width of 40-45 cm is used. This width is quite enough to form a cornice niche. At the same time, the depth should be determined in such a way that the hanging curtains are not deformed from contact with the window sill or battery. So this indicator directly depends on the type of cornice chosen.
To determine the width of the illuminated box, which will be located above the wardrobe, you should take into account the comfortable distance when opening / closing the doors so that the available lighting is sufficient.

Note! The width and depth of the structure is chosen so that the casing does not adjoin the pipes. Before them should be at least 3-4 cm .

When calculating, the thickness and type of further plating should be taken into account. This is very important if the decoration will be done with tiles. Otherwise, it will have to be cut.

Required Tools

Installation of a drywall box is not possible without the following tools:

level;
screwdriver;
pencil and ruler;
roulette;
square;
shears for metal;
hammer and knife;
dupel;
drill and drills.

Tools

Installation technology

The ceiling box should be fixed in a certain way. By following all the recommendations, you can do everything efficiently and beautifully.

Installation of illuminated structures requires the following actions from a person:

level the base surface of the ceiling with plaster and putty;
draw the attachment points of the main guides and profiles. Be sure to use a level to get a perfectly flat design;
start fastening the leading and guides of the profile, referring to the level. Brackets can be used instead of profiles. They are fastened with screws at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other;
we cut suspensions from guides (60 x 27 mm). Their size is determined by the size of the box, so be careful not to overdo it;
fasten the hangers to the guides. They are placed at an equal distance from the ceiling and should not contain kinks;
Finally, it remains only to fix the electrical wires.

After installing the frame, you can take on drywall sheets:

drywall should be cut into desired strips. Do not forget to make holes for spotlights where necessary;
attach the strips to the frame should be with the lamps already inserted into it;
the installation of the cut strips must be carried out in such a way that they do not protrude beyond the edges of each other;

Fixing drywall sheets

drywall sheets are fastened to the frame with self-tapping screws, the length of which should be at least 35-45 cm. Self-tapping screws should be installed every 2-2.5 cm. This will make the structure stronger;
then carefully shape the corners. To do this, use an aluminum corner and putty.

Note! To get an excellent result, you should use only high-quality materials. Otherwise, it will be almost impossible to make an even and safe box.

Experts recommend installing the frame at a distance from pipes and other communications. Otherwise, the warm air emanating from the pipes can lead to the formation of various deformations of the metal frame and, as a result, drywall. As a result, cracks may appear on the surface of the box, at the joints of the sheets.
Adhering to the technology of mounting drywall boxes, you can make a design of any complexity on your own. And your ceiling will be irresistible!

Proper fixing of plasterboard skirting boards to the ceiling

A drywall box on the ceiling is often used not only as an interior structure, but in most cases as a purely technical one. For example, a drywall box on the ceiling is needed to install spotlights. With it, you can hide various communications, such as ventilation or electrical wiring. The main advantage of a drywall box is the ease of assembly, which allows you to do it yourself without much difficulty.

Plasterboard ceiling construction

Structurally, a plasterboard box on the ceiling is a metal frame sheathed with plasterboard. Therefore, in fact, the main work when creating a box lies in the creation of the frame.

Fig.1.

For this job you will need the following tools: drill or puncher, screwdriver, metal shears, laser level or building level. And materials: drywall, ceiling and guide profile, direct suspensions, dowel-nails, metal screws, drywall screws.

Mounting the frame under the box

Creating a drywall box on the ceiling begins with the fact that mark the line of passage of the box on the wall and ceiling, i.e. from markup. Further along these lines, a guide profile is attached using dowel-nails in increments of 50-60 cm.

Fig.2.

Ways to create a box edge

Now the most difficult stage is the device of the box edge and horizontal guides. There are many options for forming the edge of a drywall box on the ceiling, for clarity, we will consider two, in my opinion, the easiest to implement. The main problem with creating a rib is to install the crossbeams in such a way that the fasteners do not interfere with the installation of drywall.

The first option is a compound edge. It is made of two guide profiles. To do this, take two guide profiles of equal length and connect them together as shown in the figure. It should be noted that the length of the rib should be equal to the length of the drywall box.

Fig.3.

After that, the resulting structure is installed in place.

Fig.4.

Next, crossbars of the required length are cut from the ceiling profile and inserted into the groove of the ceiling profile in increments of 60 cm along the horizontal and vertical surface of the box. At the same time, to increase the rigidity of the structure, the vertical crossbars are fastened with self-tapping screws to the edge of the box.

Fig.5.

The advantage of this method is that it does not require extra fasteners that could interfere with the installation of drywall. The disadvantage is the extra consumption of profiles.

In order to reduce profile consumption, another method of forming a rib can be used. In this method, the rib is formed from the guide profile, without any modifications.

Fig.6.

Fig.7.

Such a design is justified if the height of the box is not large, in which case there is no need for vertical guides, with the exception of the joints of drywall sheets.

Fig.8.

After the frame is assembled, you can start laying communications and then lining the box with drywall. GKL sheets are attached to the frame self-tapping screws with a step of about 15cm.

Box sewing, putty

The next step is finishing the box. First, self-tapping screws are puttied, at the same time, a ceiling plinth can be installed. Also at this stage, the edge of the box is formed; for this, a special corner is used. It is attached to the box with a finishing putty.

Fig.9.

The last stage is the coating of the box with finishing putty and grinding. Well, then it's finishing and installation of fixtures.

We examined the device of a drywall box, which can be used for laying communications or installing spotlights. The greatest difficulty is the assembly of the outer edge. There are several options for its design. If the box is not large or has a cross section close to square, then a composite structure is used. If the box has a large width and low height, then the best option is a design with suspensions. However, regardless of the design chosen, the assembly of the box is very simple and easy to do with your own hands without the use of a special tool.

In conclusion, a few design solutions for plasterboard ceiling boxes that can be made using the technology described in this article.

Fig.11.

Fig.12.

Fig.13.

Fig.14.

Fig.15.

Advantages

If there is any doubt about the advisability of installing a drywall box on the ceiling, then you need to explore the following advantages of such a finish:

it is always possible to install additional lighting;
the material allows you to create structures of any configuration on the ceiling, which can become a bright decorative element in the room;
installation of drywall is not difficult - you can do everything yourself;
the material in question is absolutely safe - it has a high level of fire safety and does not emit toxic substances into the air even when heated.

In addition, everyone has a choice when buying drywall sheets - manufacturers offer three types of this finishing material on the market:

moisture resistant - can be used in rooms with high humidity (for example, a bathroom or kitchen);
for normal humidity - it is used absolutely in any room;
fire resistant drywall.

Please note: cellulose-reinforced gypsum fiber sheet has the highest quality characteristics.

With the help of this design, it is possible to form and supplement not only the interior of the room, but also remove ceiling defects, hide external wiring.

Plasterboard construction allows you to install hidden lighting fixtures. It can be used to decorate a children's room in the presence of a lack of lighting.

In the bathroom, it will help to equip the backlight mirrors.

If you install several switches, it becomes possible to adjust the intensity of lighting in different parts of the room.

The choice of drywall

Drywall refers to finishing materials produced in sheet form. Its basis is made up of mineral components.

From the outside it is covered with paper. It performs protective functions.

The paper coating also helps to contain the stresses of the internal base that occur during maintenance work.

The usual coating is used for finishing wall and ceiling surfaces.

In the manufacture of moisture-resistant drywall, a special impregnating mixture is used. It prevents the formation of fungal formations and has water-repellent properties.

This material is used to repair rooms with high humidity.

The production of fire-resistant drywall is carried out using mineral fibers and special additives.

They allow you to get fireproof material.

materials

When installing the box, materials are needed:

guide profile (UD) - 28 × 27 mm;
rack profile (CD) - 60 × 27 mm;
fasteners - dowel-nails, self-tapping screws for metal;
suspensions and crabs;
drywall;
acrylic primer;
putty for joints between plasterboards;
reinforcing mesh.

On sale there are 3 types of drywall:

for dry rooms (gray);
moisture resistant (green);
flame retardant (pink or gray with red markings).

To make the frame durable, you should use all profiles for their intended purpose and from one manufacturer.

Pay attention

When performing a significant amount of work, it will be necessary to purchase plasterboard sheets in large quantities.

In this case, it is necessary to check each pack of finishing material. Sometimes damage to the bottom sheets may occur during the transfer process.

When purchasing drywall products, you need to take an interest in the storage conditions of the material. It should not show chips. The edge must be even.

It is necessary that the profile surface has a hard surface.

The material should not sag under manual impact.

You should carefully examine the end of the product. On it sometimes you can find a primer. This may be evidence of poor-quality galvanizing.

There should be no white spots on a properly galvanized surface.

Frame mounting procedure

First you need to prepare the base surface. Plastering and processing of the ceiling with putty should be done.

The frame is installed using a special aluminum profile.

When performing installation work, do not use random material. Only by using quality products, you can expect to get the expected result.

After installing the frame, it is necessary to prepare a drywall coating.

Marking is applied to drywall sheets and holes are drilled for mounting lighting fixtures.

Sheets are fastened to a previously installed frame.

at the final stage, the remaining gaps are covered with putty and the entire coating is painted.

It is better to start screwing the GKL from those parts that could not be fixed rigidly, simultaneously adjusting them in level.

The pitch of the self-tapping screws is usually 20 cm.

Sometimes there is a need to mount a large sheet of plasterboard on a horizontal surface.

So that it does not break, it makes sense to prepare a T-shaped stand from the profile.

Advice! When mounting pieces of plasterboard, it should be borne in mind that between them it is necessary to leave a gap of 3-7 mm to fill it with putty.

Photo of a mounted plasterboard ceiling box ready for finishing.

An important point is the strengthening of the frame in the process of its sheathing.

The profile on which the drywall joint falls must be rigidly fixed by means of a suspension. The exception is narrow sections up to 30-40 cm wide - depending on the stiffness obtained.

Having mounted the box, you should make sure that nothing sticks out anywhere, does not hang out, there are all the necessary gaps and the required level is maintained everywhere.

After that, you can start finishing.

It is better to start screwing the GKL from those parts that could not be fixed rigidly, simultaneously adjusting them in level. The pitch of the self-tapping screws is usually 20 cm.

If provided by the project, then before the fastening of drywall sheets begins, insulation must be laid. Then you need to cut the sheets of drywall exactly to size. When joining sheets is done, then try to ensure that these joints occur only on the CD profile. Remember - you first need to sew up the bottom of the box on the ceiling, and only then proceed with the installation of drywall sheets on the side "edges".

It is highly desirable to achieve the drowning of each head of the self-tapping screw (it is with them that drywall sheets are mounted to the profile) into the material by 2-3 mm - this will facilitate the process of filling the surface of the box.

If you plan to place spotlights in the box, then you need to cut holes for them.

Installation of a drywall box on the ceiling is done in stages.

Holes for dowels are made along the location line of the guide profile.

The guides are attached first along the perimeter of the upper part of the wall, where the top of the box will be.

U-shaped suspensions are mounted on the ceiling. They can be made from a UD profile by cutting with scissors. The carrier profile in the form of short pieces of CD, passing along the bottom of the box, is inserted into the guides and attached to the hangers.

Also, guides (UD) are attached along the perimeter of the future structure, to the ends of the supporting profile, forming the edge of the structure.
Cross profiles are fastened with a step of 60 cm.

After mounting the frame, check the evenness of the structure again. It is advisable to learn the basics of installation from video instructions, where you can choose your option.

So, let's go directly to the assembly. We will consider both options that we mentioned earlier, the option with a backlit cornice, and also say a few words about how curly plasterboard ceiling boxes are assembled.

We start by marking the box on the walls and ceiling.

Wall marking for plasterboard ceiling box, device

We start with the walls. Use the level to determine the lowest corner in the room.
We retreat from it the required distance down - recall that we have it 15 centimeters - and duplicate the resulting level in all corners. At the same time, it is not necessary to measure everything with a level - it is enough to retreat an equal distance from the already received marks with a tape measure.
Next, we apply a coloring thread along the marks, stretch it and beat off the lines. So we got the bottom level of our frame.

Let's go to the ceiling. We mark the required distance from the walls at the corners - 55 cm with us.
We beat off straight lines with the same lace. The markup is ready.

Let's write a simplified version first:

In our particular case, it will be much more convenient to start the assembly with short walls. The fact is that standard profiles have a length of 3 meters (there are also 4, but they are quite rare), and if we go this way, we will save ourselves the need to build up profiles on a long wall.
So, we fix the guides to the walls and ceiling along the previously obtained lines. If the ceiling has significant differences (for example, at the junction of plates), then cut through the side edges of the profile in these places and bend it to the base, avoiding sagging.
The fastener installation step strongly depends on the quality of the profile you have chosen, but most often it is 50-60 centimeters. Some profiles already have holes that will additionally help you navigate.

Now you need to cut a strip from drywall that will match the height of the box.

Drywall is cut in a straight line as follows: lay the sheet on a flat surface; make the necessary marks on both sides; we apply a rule or a PP profile on top and cut through the cardboard shell with a clerical knife. Next, you need to take the cut for a break (put the sheet on the edge or lay it on the surface with an edge overhang). The plaster core will crack exactly in line with the knife. It remains only to cut the second side of the cardboard.

On the cut edges, irregularities are constantly formed due to the heterogeneity of the gypsum. To trim them, we use a rasp - it easily removes layers of gypsum.
Right on the floor, we apply a whole guide profile to the smoothest edge of the workpiece (we shorten it if necessary) and fasten it with self-tapping screws.
We lift the sheet up and fasten the other side to the ceiling profile, not forgetting to check the horizontal level. To do this, it is very convenient to pre-stretch the nylon thread at the right points.
As a result, the profile that we wound at the bottom should be directed towards the wall guide.
If necessary, cut off another strip and hem the side along the entire length. At the junction of the strips, you need to place one vertical jumper - this way you guarantee yourself that no cracks will appear in this place in the future.
Due to the fact that the box most often has a long, narrow shape, it is convenient to place drywall sheets longitudinally to it. This results in fewer seams, which means that the structure will be stronger.
It is known that the length of a standard sheet is 2.5 meters, which means that the step between the jumpers must be made 50 centimeters, that is, a multiple.
We put down marks from one corner with an equal, above-mentioned indent. This must be done on the wall under the profile and on drywall, already screwed to a vertical plane. This will allow not only to correctly place the jumpers, but also to accurately hit them with self-tapping screws when they are hidden under a layer of drywall.

Next, we cut the jumpers from the profile with metal scissors.

Arrange the jumpers according to the marks, pressing them against the wall and fixing them to the wall profile on the “bugs”.
The vertical alignment will occur along the already stretched thread. As you understand, it should be located exactly in the corner of the box. We determine the position and link the profiles.

Here our box is practically ready, it remains only to hem it from the bottom with drywall and, if necessary, strengthen it. Similarly, we assemble the box on the opposite, and then on adjacent walls.

The filing of the horizontal part is done last, and before that, wiring, ventilation and all the required work can be done in the frame.

In order to finish the sheathing, we cut the sheets into a length of 56 centimeters (taking into account the thickness of the drywall on a vertical plane). We lift them up, while it is better to work together so as not to overstrain, and fasten them onto self-tapping screws in increments of 15-18 centimeters.