How to fix a bath: step by step instructions, simple ways, tips from the masters. Four ways to fix the bath yourself How to strengthen the legs of the bath

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Four ways to fix the bath yourself

Hello dear readers! In this article I will talk about how to fix the bath. Despite the fact that modern plumbing is quite easy to install, blog subscribers often ask questions about installing bathtubs. Therefore, I propose to consider how the ubiquitous plumbing fixtures made of metal and acrylic are attached using the example of already completed work.

Actual fastening methods

In accordance with the peculiarities of the location of the bath, the following types of installation are distinguished:

fastening on the floor, when plumbing is installed separately at a certain distance from the walls;
fastening to the floor and walls is the most common option when installing corner plumbing or when installing a bowl in a niche.

Depending on the type of fasteners used, there are:

installation on brickwork - a universal solution that is often used for reliable and stable installation of metal baths;
installation on non-adjustable or adjustable legs - relevant for steel and cast-iron bathtubs, which are equipped with such supports;
mounting on metal structures and adjustable feet is the most common option for attaching acrylic plumbing.

Method one - mounting a steel bath on a brick

I suggest that you familiarize yourself with the photo report on the installation of the KaldeweiSaniformPlus steel bath with dimensions of 1.7 by 0.75 m. The installed product has a standard configuration, but due to thick walls it is heavy. A considerable weight significantly complicated the installation and presented additional requirements for the strength and stability of the fasteners.

According to the instructions, the product is installed on special legs, which greatly simplifies the installation. But, in order to save money, it was decided to install on brickwork. As it turned out later, the brickwork provided better rigidity than the use of standard legs.

Do not know how to fix a steel bath so that it does not swing? Read on and find out how.

Installation technology

So, let's start arranging the bathroom:

We unpack the bath and correlate its dimensions with the dimensions of the seat;

Attention! To successfully install the bath in a niche, the distance between the sides of the bowl and the wall on each side must be at least 2.5 cm. This requirement does not apply to installation.

We install the bowl on the spacer bars, which we put right next to the inside of the sides;

We check the position of the bowl relative to the horizon with a spirit level and, if necessary, align it by changing the angle of installation of the spacers;

We lay out the brickwork under those parts of the bath where the legs were originally supposed to be;

We bring the last row of masonry close to the wall of the bowl, using pieces of brick for this;
After the masonry has dried, we take out the spacers and check the stabilityusing our weight;

From the brick around the perimeter of the bath, we lay out the screen under the very rim.

The screen in this case performs not only a decorative function, but, among other things, serves as an element that provides additional rigidity to the entire structure. Adjacency of masonry to the lower part of the rim around the perimeter allows avoiding the skew of the bowl even if the lower supports are not strong enough.

So, we learned how to strengthen a steel bath so that it does not stagger. But once again I draw your attention to the fact that this method is relevant for metal and it is not recommended to make such a masonry under an acrylic bowl.

Method two - fasten to the wall and to the floor

So, we looked at how to mount metal plumbing on brickwork, now I propose to learn how to fix the bathtub to the wall.

In the photo you can see the same KaldeweiSaniformPlus bath with dimensions of 1.7 by 0.75 m, but this time the installation is not on brickwork, but on a standard support structure.

In this particular case, we noticed late that the stud of the support legs is smaller than we originally thought. That is, it was planned to install under the height of the sides 59 cm, and the bathtub, together with the legs completely turned out, has a height of 56 cm.

The problem was solved by cutting pieces of tiles, which were subsequently glued at the location of the legs.

Fasteners to the wall are sealed with silicone

A strip of silicone sealant was applied over the profile, retreating from it 1-2 mm.

It is possible to install plumbing fixtures on pieces of tiles glued to silicone no earlier than a day after the silicone has completely polymerized.

So, now you know how to attach metal plumbing to the wall and floor. It remains to find out how to fix the acrylic plumbing that is popular today?

Method three - mounting an acrylic corner bath on standard supports

How to strengthen the bath so that it does not stagger if it is made of acrylic?

Let's take a closer look at the steps listed in the instructions:

Do-it-yourself acrylic bowl free from packaging;

We spread a blanket on the floor of the bathroom and turn the bowl over on it (this is a precautionary measure against scratching)
We take the dimensions from the sides of the bowl and correlate with the dimensions of the seat;

In order for the corner bath to be quickly and efficiently installed, make sure that the two walls forming the seat converge at a right angle. The absence of a right angle indicates that there will be a gap between the side and one of the walls, which is very difficult to cover.

We unpack the components from which the frame will be made;
We lay out separately, all the components in order to make it easier to assemble them;

We insert plugs into the ends of the legs and snap them;

We screw the studs into the adjusting legs (there is a thread inside the leg);
We wind two lock nuts onto the stud;
We assemble the profile from which the frame will be made;

We screw the pin of the adjusting leg into the hole on the insert in the profile;
We wind one lock nut close to the profile, and the second - to the leg so that the structure is strong and stable;

We install the prepared profiles on the bowl and fasten them with self-tapping screws that come with the kit;
To assemble another profile, we prepare one short and one longer hairpin;
We screw the short stud and locknuts in the same way as the other legs;

We screw a long hairpin from that side of the profile, which will be located on the side of the protrusion of the bathtub rim;

On a screwed long hairpin, we install plastic legs on both sides, that is, one leg will rest against the acrylic side, and the other against the floor;

We fix the legs installed on both sides with nuts;

After the support legs are installed on the profile, their plugs must be at the same level. You can check the location of the extreme points of the supporting legs with a ruler, measuring the distance from the profile surface to the surface of the plug.

We turn over the assembled structure and install it on the seat;
We check the level of the position of the bowl, applying it to the sides;
If necessary, unscan the nuts on the supports, align the legs and tighten the locknuts again.

Method four - reinforced fastening of acrylic bathtubs

So, we just learned how to install an acrylic bathtub on supporting legs. But as long-term operation shows, this method has a significant drawback. In the area between the reinforced profiles, the bowl crunches under the weight of a person.

Of course, this shortcoming is not critical, but it is better to eliminate it. For these purposes, standard foam concrete blocks 625 mm long and 250 mm thick are selected.

In order to make it possible to install the bath on blocks with standard sizes, when assembling the mounting frame, we space the profiles to a distance of at least 65 cm.

Blocks are installed under the bowl on mounting foam. After the foam has completely hardened, the bath will stop crunching and become motionless. The price of this method is minimal, since you only have to purchase a few bricks and a foam bottle.

Let us consider in more detail what is the instruction for strengthening fasteners:

Raise the bowl to the maximum height using the adjusting supports;
Under the bowl along the perimeter, along which the bricks will be laid, we blow out strips of mounting foam;
We lay blocks on the foam, on the surface of which we first apply a strip of foam;
With the help of adjustable supports, we lower the bowl onto the foam and counter the supports with nuts.
Within a day, plumbing can be used for its intended purpose.

In order for the foam to better stick to the blocks and to the floor screed, the mounting surfaces must be moistened with water from a spray bottle.

Conclusion

In this article, I talked about how to fix the bath to the wall and floor. I hope that now you will not have problems with the arrangement of the bathroom. However, if you have any questions about the installation, I will be happy to give an exhaustive answer to them.

Old-style cast iron baths are quite difficult to budge. But modern steel and acrylic models, due to their low weight, are rather unstable. If installed incorrectly, they will wobble with use or move with the slightest push, spoiling the finish of walls and floors. Let's talk about how to fix the bath - steel or acrylic - to avoid such troubles.

The stability of the bath depends not only on the procedure for its installation, but also on the dimensions of the bowl of this plumbing. In order for the bath to stand securely, its dimensions must correspond to the distance between the walls at the installation site, minus 2.5–3 centimeters on each side. Under such conditions, the bowl will be easier to fix to the walls and floor. In addition, in this case there will be no gap between the bathtub and the walls, into which water will inevitably enter during use.

Features of the device of steel baths

Among all types of bathtubs, steel models are the most difficult to install motionless. This is due to two features of their design:

low weight of the bowl;
lack of mounts for legs.

On cast iron and acrylic models, special fasteners are usually located on the outside of the bowl, to which the legs can be securely screwed. Manufacturers of steel baths have abandoned these details. Since steel is a rather soft material, there is a high risk that when using the bath, the weight of the water collected in it, plus the body immersed in it, may bend. In this case, the fasteners will inevitably damage the enamel coating of the bowl.

Legs for steel plumbing are usually a kind of goats or props. The tub is supposed to just rest on them. Some models of legs can be supplemented with an adhesive layer for a more secure fixation with the bottom of the bowl. But that doesn't improve the situation much. Therefore, it is recommended to use more reliable structural elements in addition to the legs.

How to fix a steel bath so that it does not swing

There are several ways to install a steel bath in a stable position. Most often, it is recommended to make a brick stand under the plumbing bowl. But this option is not suitable for everyone. Firstly, the implementation of brickwork requires certain skills and abilities. Not every homeowner will be able to build a reliable stand with their own hands. And in this case, rather high requirements are imposed on the quality of the masonry, since moisture and serious weight will constantly affect it.

Secondly, in many houses, especially those related to the old fund, the floors may simply not support the weight of the brick substrate. As a result, installing a bathtub can turn into a utility accident for you and the neighbors downstairs. Plus, not everyone wants to wait a few days until the masonry mortar dries and acquires the strength necessary for installing plumbing. Therefore, it is better to use simpler options for fixing the bath.

Tip: if you still want to install a steel bath on a stand, make it not from brick, but from a gas block. This material weighs much less, and it is more convenient to mount it.

The simplest and most reliable ways to install a steel bath include:

fastening to walls on metal corners;
installation on a frame made of a metal profile;
use of special fasteners.

Where does the installation of the bath begin

Whatever installation method you choose, remember the main thing - the installation of the bath begins with a fitting. First, the bowl is placed in the right place on the legs, its position is leveled and connected to the water supply and sewerage. After that, you should check the performance of the product and especially the quality of the water drain. As you know, the bath should be at a slight angle: only in this case the drain will work correctly.

Having found out the optimal angle of inclination of the bowl by adjusting its height, mark the position of the sides on the wall. According to these marks, in the future you will install fasteners for the bath: steel or acrylic. After marking, disconnect the plumbing device from communications and take it out of the room.

Important! The final installation of a steel bath, regardless of the methods of its fastening, should be carried out after the floor of the room is completely finished with tiles or other material.

Mounting the steel bowl on the corners

A fairly reliable option for attaching a bathtub is to, in addition to the legs, rest it with its sides on wide metal corners screwed to the walls. This method is suitable for you if the walls of the room are made of sufficiently durable material and were leveled with plaster or tile adhesive. It is better not to attach the bath to drywall constructions: they will not withstand such a weight.

Important! Installation of corners should be done after the finishing of the walls of the room is completed.

You can hang the corners only on two walls, which will then rest against the short edges of the bowl, or on all three vertical surfaces with which it will come into contact. In order not to damage the finish, first use a special drill to make holes for fasteners in the tile. After that, you can drill through them directly into the wall, using, depending on its material, a drill with a victorious solder or a puncher.

The place of attachment of the corners should be determined by pre-made marks. At the same time, keep in mind that the bath will rest on them with sides, but part of its weight should also fall on the legs. Don't forget to adjust for the thickness of the corner.

Installing the bathtub on the frame

If you plan on covering the space under the bowl, the best way to reinforce a steel tub so it doesn't wobble is to place it on a metal frame. The structure is made of UD and CD wall profiles. The first is fixed to the floor with dowels as a base for the frame. From the second, the upper frame and supports for it are assembled. You can also make a welded support structure from:

metal corner;
steel pipes of suitable diameter.

Important! The size of the frame is selected in such a way that the profile of the upper frame fits snugly against the walls of the bowl, while the bath itself stands firmly on its legs.

Corner posts from the profile are fastened to the upper and lower frame, and also, for greater reliability, are attached to the walls of the room. The erection of the frame should be carried out after finishing the walls, or at least after tiling the part that will be located above the bowl. Upon completion of the installation, the frame can be sheathed with plastic panels or drywall, which is then tiled.

Important! When sheathing, do not forget to leave an inspection hatch for access to communications located under the bathroom.

Using special fasteners

If the bath bowl rests firmly enough on the legs, you can restrict yourself to fixing it to the wall using special fasteners. They are sold in a wide variety in construction and plumbing supermarkets. This operation should be carried out before finishing the walls. In the future, the fasteners are hidden under, which contributes not only to improving the aesthetics of the room, but also to increasing the reliability of fastening.

The previous article talked about the installation of cast iron baths, now let's figure it out.

In general, installing a steel bath is not much different from installing a cast iron bath (except, of course, that steel is easy to move). However, there are still differences.

Features of installing a steel bath

If the cast-iron bath will stand securely even in the middle of the room due to its stability due to its massiveness, then it will not work to install a steel bath in this way: it must necessarily adjoin three walls.

A steel bath must be installed before the wall tiles are laid (unlike a cast-iron bath, which is installed after the bathroom has been tiled). In this case, it is desirable that the distance from one end wall to the other is equal to the length of the bath plus a couple of centimeters (so that the bath freely enters between opposite walls). In apartments, this condition is met, since everything is done according to standards: a standard bath is 1.7 m long, and a bathroom in apartments, as a rule, is 2 cm larger (this is also a standard). Well, in private homes, it often happens that the owners themselves plan what, how and where to tinker ... this paragraph is written for such owners.

Steel Bath Supports

All light bathtubs are equipped with adjustable feet.

The most reliable and safe supports for steel bathtubs are supports with self-adhesive pads. If the manufacturer has provided for rigid fasteners using tie bolts, during tightening or under the influence of load during operation, the enamel may peel off at the fastening points. To prevent such peeling, self-adhesive pads are used.

The supports are in the form of a channel. On the supports there are adjusting screws equipped with plastic tips. Fasteners with long bolts and short supports are better, and not vice versa.

How to install a steel bath on bricks?

As mentioned above, steel bathtubs are not sufficiently stable due to their low mass, so you can make an additional support - install the bathtub on bricks, laying out this very support from bricks (or blocks) on the outside of the bathtub:

It is clear that this support will be tiled, so the appearance of the bricks themselves does not play a role.

When installing such supports, do not forget to leave room for access to the siphon.

How to install a steel bath: step by step instructions

Now let's figure out how to install a steel bath step by step.

Preparing a site for a steel bath

The first step is to prepare the installation site. There must be outlets for the mixer and a sewer pipe for draining (all dimensions were discussed in the section on the design of water supply and sewerage).

A steel bath is installed against bare walls! The walls before installing the bath must be prepared: the old coating is removed, the walls are leveled, primed, dust-free, which guarantees the reliability of the tiles. The walls are preferably also treated with a moisture barrier. The corners between the walls must be strictly straight.

Options for fixing the legs of a steel bath

The difference in steel baths is in the fastening of the legs. In one version, the legs are attached to double-sided tape, in the other - with wing nuts. In any case, the tub is placed upside down (see below).

It is not necessary to remove the cardboard packaging, and if removed, then we put a soft material.

The bathroom comes with instructions for its installation and assembly, just do as it is written in the instructions. This is just an example for a standard bath, your distances may vary.

We try on each of the two paired supports to their installation places. For example, 70 mm from the water outlet to the middle of the front legs, and from the middle of the front legs to the rear 820 mm:

The supports must be located without displacement from a flat bottom surface. And, I repeat, read the distances in the instructions for your bath, they may differ from those indicated in the photo.

In order for the supports to fit snugly against the bottom of the bathtub, you can carefully straighten the carrier channel. This should be done, of course, not in the bath, but somewhere aside, on a sheet of packing cardboard laid on the floor.

At the docking points, the surface of the bath is degreased with acetone or pure alcohol.

Then they remove the protective film from the overlays, carefully place the supports in their places and press them tightly. Here, too, it is necessary to degrease the mounting surfaces with the above substances (and no more, especially solvents for paints!).

Before removing the protective film, it is advisable to slightly warm up the overlay with a household or building hair dryer.

To mark the places where the legs are glued, a simple pencil may not be very convenient - it is hard to see on a dark surface. You can use, for example, a yellow pencil, it is perfectly visible on metal. And you can stick a piece of masking tape on the bathtub in the right place, as in the photo above.

The legs of the steel bath can also be fastened with wing nuts to the brackets on the bottom of the bath:

Legs with angular stops are pressed against the bath and that's it.

Important! Do not tighten the lamb too much, otherwise the enamel will bounce off from the inside.

Included with the legs are studs for adjusting the height and level of the bath, they can be "disassembled". Assembly is next. We carefully hammer the adjusting threaded studs into the plastic tips all the way, making sure not to damage the thread. It is better to pre-screw the complete nuts onto the ends of the studs. Next, we drive the fixing nuts to the tips and screw the studs into place on the supports (legs in the sense).

If the doors in the bathroom are narrow, then it is advisable to install the supports already in the bathroom. With wide doors, assembly can be carried out outside the bathroom. We bring the bath in an upright position, you do NOT need to hold it by the legs, hold it by the edges.

Installation of tub piping

It is better to buy a harness that is collapsible and swivel, which will facilitate the installation of the corrugation outlet to the sewerage system.

Go. We first insert the cuff into the opening of the bath:

We fix the drain grate with a screw:

Everything here is plastic, so without fanaticism, if necessary, you can always hold out.

We look that the lattice was not skewed.

In general, there are many types of strapping for bathtubs, choose according to your taste. It is better to buy something that is easy to install and easy to change.

Simultaneously with the installation of the bath, we provide for the installation of a check valve to drain the washing machine. Such a valve also prevents the siphon effect that occurs due to the drain from the upper floors and leads to poor operation of the machine.

As a result, we have:

Drain from the bath (1), drain (2) from the washing machine through the non-return valve (3), until the end of the pipe (4) is plugged, where then it will continue to drain from the sink. Well, the pipe goes through the wall (5) into the sewerage system. The bathtub overflow connected by corrugation (6) is also visible.

Leveling the bathtub after installation

So, we put the bath in the place allotted to it, having previously wound the legs. We carry out preliminary alignment in height and level, in the same way as it was considered for a cast-iron bath. By adjusting the legs, we align the bath in two planes: in the longitudinal and in the transverse:

Then, between the end sides and the walls, closer to the corners, we hammer in four narrow wooden wedges, performing precise alignment on three walls. This gap will then be needed to firmly fix the bath.

Attention! No need to slope the bath with legs, they say, for better drainage. Baths are made deliberately with a slope of the bottom.

Fixing the steel bath after its installation

A cast iron bath, due to its weight, stands securely and does not sway without any additional tricks. The steel bath needs to be fixed somehow - fastened, even though it seems to be on legs. This is where the gaps that we left between the bathroom and the walls when we set the levels come in handy.

These gaps can be blown out with mounting foam. The edges of the bathtub at the points of junction with the wall must first be pasted over with paper tape that can be removed (the white tape on the white bathtub is not visible, therefore it is shown in red lines):

Now we fill the gap between the walls and the bathroom with mounting foam using a narrow nozzle:

Try not to get your hands and clothes dirty with mounting foam.

A little about finishing after installing the bath

The wedges are pulled out with pliers after the foam has solidified, the excess foam is cut with a blade, and the adhesive tape is removed. We lay out the border first, then the tiles on the wall. If the border is not ceramic, but will be glued to the tile, then first we lay out the tile, after which we grout the seams, after which we paste the plastic plinth.

The place under the bathroom can be laid with a wall of bricks or blocks, then laying it out with tiles:

Or install a sliding plastic screen:

That's all about it how to install a steel bath. Ahead is more about installing an acrylic bathtub.

how to install a steel bath

A steel bath is the cheapest option, with proper installation and additional processing, its performance is in no way inferior to more expensive counterparts. The main advantage of heavy cast iron bathtubs is that heat is retained for a long time. But in order to warm up cast iron, you need a lot of hot water, and this is associated with additional losses of thermal energy. In addition, during the adoption of water procedures, the water still cools down, heat escapes through a large area of unprotected surfaces. There is a simple way to eliminate this disadvantage, if desired, the performance of an ordinary steel bath can be brought to high standards.

An important point, the right choice simplifies installation and increases the comfort of use.

By what criteria are bathtubs classified?

Parameter	Meaning and tips for choosing
	105x70, 120x70, 130x70, 140x70, 150x70, 160x70, 170x70, 170x75, 180x80. Choose the length and width of the bath, taking into account the size of the room and the height of the residents. Try to keep the product as close as possible to opposite walls, this will greatly simplify the installation process.
	110, 120, 123, 136, 150, 170, 195, 210, 240. The volume directly depends on the depth, and this parameter affects the height of the edge. If elderly people or children live in the house, then you should not buy a large bath, it is difficult to enter and exit it. In addition, a large volume will require significant losses of hot water. But, on the other hand, the more water, the longer the comfortable temperature is maintained.
	Bolted or double sided tape. The first option is used by serious manufacturers, bolting is more reliable, in most cases it does not require additional reinforcement or installation on bricks. Legs on adhesive tape - a budget option, not stable. Legs can help to level the plane of the bathtub horizontally; installation on brick linings is recommended to increase the reliability of fixation.
	All steel bathtubs are covered with enamel. But the quality of coverage is different. Domestic producers cover the worst. Insufficient enamel thickness and low quality of the composition in terms of physical strength reduce the service life. As a result, the need to restore the enamel (long and unreliable) or replace it.

Approach the choice of the size of the bath responsibly, take into account the characteristics of the residents and the room. Poor-quality enamel can be recognized by several signs.

Run your hand across the surface. The surface must be perfectly smooth. Roughness or "sea waves" indicate a violation of the annealing regimes. Such a coating will quickly get dirty, requires constant cleaning.
Examine the cover from various angles. If the standard thickness is not observed, then in some places the shade of white changes.
Pay attention to the area of the bottom near the drain. There are cases when the drain is in the same plane or protrudes slightly above the surface. In this bath, the water will not leave completely, a small amount of it always remains near the drain. After drying, calcium is deposited in these places, over time it acquires a yellow tint.

Practical advice. Steel bathtubs belong to the segment of inexpensive goods, you do not need to buy the cheapest ones. Additional savings will eventually bring losses, purchase products only from well-known, time-tested and numerous buyers manufacturers.

steel bath

Site preparation

At the installation site of the bathroom, there should already be sewer and water pipes. Check the levelness of the floor and the corners of the room. If the angle between the walls is not equal to 90°, then this drawback must be taken into account during the installation of the bath.

The floor covering must be horizontal.

Of course, with the help of legs or bricks, the bath will be installed evenly, but there may be problems with water drainage during leaks. The fact is that it is difficult to detect small leaks under the bathroom, all elements are closed. If water accumulates near the wall, and the leaks are insignificant, then a fungus will definitely appear in this place. Getting rid of it is difficult, time-consuming and expensive. In some cases, you will have to completely dismantle the bath, make a set of special events and reinstall the bath. Minor leaks can occur for various reasons, it is impossible to completely guarantee their absence. If the water flows towards the screen, then the problem is immediately visible, the causes are eliminated in a timely manner and the negative consequences are minimal.

Siphon and overflow installation

These elements must be mounted before installing the bath in place. According to their device and connection technology, all systems are the same, the difference is only in price and material of manufacture.

Step 1. Turn the tub upside down. To protect the enamel from mechanical damage during tipping, place cardboard or a soft cloth on the floor. Do not do such work yourself, call an assistant. Together, the process is not only significantly accelerated, but the quality of installation is also improved.

Step 2 Read the assembly instructions, check the completeness of the siphon. Pay attention to the gaskets, they differ in appearance and size. Do not confuse the gaskets, each must be installed in its place.

Step 3 Assemble the siphon, fix it in the drain hole. Do not apply too much force, do not damage the oil seals and gaskets. To facilitate the assembly of the structure, it is recommended to use technical vaseline or moisten the surfaces with soapy water.

The upper part is attached inside the bathtub, the lower part is attached under the drain hole of the bathtub

Important. The drain gasket has a groove dividing it into parts of unequal thickness. The thin side should go inside the bath, the thick side should be on the back side. Don't change position. Otherwise, the plastic element will protrude above the surface of the bath, the water will not be able to completely leave. The remaining part, after drying, forms yellow spots on the bottom, they will often have to be removed. All cleaning products contain compounds that have a negative effect on enamel. Although their concentration is insignificant, but with repeated use, the thickness of the enamel decreases.

Step 4 Turn the tub on its side, install the gaskets in turn and screw on the plastic parts of the drain and overflow. Doing this is much easier with two people. One should hold the parts, and the second should tighten with a mounting bolt. Do not apply too much force, the plastic may crack.

Check the tightness of the connections. It is best to do this before installing the bath in place, so it will be easier to eliminate leaks. Everything is fine - you can install the legs.

Leg mounting

We have already mentioned that the legs can be fixed with double-sided tape or nuts. The first option shouldn't be a problem. You just need to make sure that they do not interfere with the revision of the siphon and ensure the stability of the bath.

Assembling the second version of the legs will be more difficult. It is impossible to give general recommendations, each manufacturer develops its own design. Look at the pictures, read the recommendations. It is necessary to achieve reliable fixation of all structural details to the bath.

Adjust the position of the bath using the threads on the legs, check the levelness in two directions with a level. When you find the right position, be sure to fix the threads of the legs with nuts. They should not stagger, otherwise, over time, the slope of the bath will change. In addition, there will be gaps between the wall and the bathroom. To fix the problem, you will have to make additional stops under the bottom.

And one more piece of advice. Unfortunately, there are defective bathtubs, their factory slope of the bottom does not provide complete drainage of water. To prevent such situations, practitioners are advised to immediately increase the slope of the bath bottom towards the drain hole by a few millimeters. It is imperceptible to the eye, but there will be a guarantee of the normal functioning of the drain.

Bowl insulation

A very significant point, it makes it possible to significantly reduce the consumption of warm water, which is important given the current prices for utilities. After the bowl is insulated, in terms of heat saving indicators, the bath significantly exceeds all expensive analogues available for sale. In addition, it does not add weight, perfectly dampens unpleasant sounds during filling with water.

How is the bowl insulated?

Step 1. Work must be done in an overturned position. Recommended immediately after installing a siphon with a weir and legs. Buy two or three bottles of mounting foam. The cheaper the better. The fact is that cheap foam during solidification increases significantly in volume, and this is exactly what we need. More volume - more air bubbles, less heat loss. And the low price is due to the low compression force, this parameter in our case does not play any role.

Step 2 Clean the outside of the tub. If it has grease on it, you will have to wash it off with solvents. Working with solvents is unsafe for health, ensure maximum ventilation of the room. It is better to work outdoors than indoors. Be sure to use respiratory protection.

Step 3 After the solvent has completely dried, moisten the surface of the bottom with a spray gun. Moisture increases the coefficient of adhesion of the foam to the bottom by an order of magnitude. In addition, water contributes to the optimal mode of chemical reactions, the foam hardens much faster.

Step 4 Shake the foam bottle thoroughly, put on a special plastic tube. Start covering the bottom with foam. The process will go faster if applied in sectors from the bottom up. The foam should lie down in even rows at a distance of no more than a centimeter. The rows are wider - not a problem, after solidification, the gaps will get better. If the surface dries out, rewet it with a sprayer. Do not touch the wet foam with your hands, do not try to “stick” it to the surface. You will get nothing but additional problems. The foam will no longer increase in volume, and it is almost impossible to wash your hands. It will take a long and tedious to scrape it off with a knife.

Step 5 Wait until the foam hardens, check the uniformity of the coating, blow out the gaps.

Practical advice. If the foam falls off vertical surfaces, then turn the bathtub in different directions and finish only the horizontal ones. It will take longer to work, but the result is worth it.

Step 6 Cut off the excess foam near the edge of the bath, it should not interfere with the frame for the screen. The distance depends on the type and method of screen mounting.

This completes the preparatory work for the installation. The bath has a siphon, legs and insulation.

Installing a bathtub on bricks

This installation completely eliminates the staggering and tipping of the bath, we strongly recommend using it.

Step 1. Put the bath on legs in the right place, mark their location, draw horizontal lines. Bricks or blocks will be laid along these lines. The bathtub is pre-adjusted in height and inclination by the leg bolts.

Step 2 Measure the distance from the bottom to the floor, prepare the required number of bricks. If necessary, use a bricklayer's hammer to chip off the extra parts at the required height.

Step 3 Prepare a cement-sand mortar. For one part of cement, give about three parts of sand, water as needed.

Step 4 Lay two rows of bricks where the tub is held. Place another two centimeters of mortar on top. The mortar should hold its shape and not spread over the surface of the bricks. If necessary, add a little sand and cement to it, mix thoroughly.

Step 5 Carefully lower the bath vertically into place until it stops with the solution. Now, with a little effort, shake and press it until the legs stop on the floor, repeat these actions on both sides. Take your time, let the bath gradually take its place and squeeze out the excess solution. As soon as the legs (if any) touch the floor, installation is complete. Allow the solution time to harden (about 24 hours) and proceed with the installation of the tub.

Bath screens

With the help of screens, communications are hidden, it is possible to make shelves for storing various household items. In addition, they significantly improve the interior of the room. The screen can be brick with further cladding with ceramic tiles, MDF, plastic panels, gypsum boards, OSB, or in the form of an ordinary dense fabric curtain. We will tell you in turn how to do each option.

Designs must necessarily provide convenient access to the siphon for periodic maintenance work to clean the system. The presence of an opening for the legs is advisable to do only when the bathroom is used for washing. As an option - a country house for temporary residence. It is unprofitable and dangerous to install an expensive washing machine in it; summer residents, out of old habit, use a bath for washing clothes.

What are the frames for installing screens

Any type of screen, except brick, is mounted on a frame. They are made of metal profiles (the best option), wooden slats or square pipes. The latter option is very expensive and time-consuming, and has no operational advantages. Why do you need a frame that can withstand a load of hundreds of kilograms, if it actually does not exceed a few? We believe that it makes no sense to consider it. The manufacture of the structure must be approached very carefully; in any case, the curved structure will have to be redone.

How to make a frame from metal profiles?

Step 1. Count the number of profiles.

They need three baths vertical in height, two horizontal in length and two horizontal in width baths. To strengthen the structure, use jumpers, for the door you need to make a separate small frame. Three jumpers are enough in length, in width you can do without them. Knowing the size of your bathtub, it is easy to find out the total amount of material. Immediately buy self-tapping screws for attaching profiles.

Step 2 Make a markup.

A very important stage, do not rush, check the measurements several times. To improve accuracy, use a plumb line, the level of the vertical plane indicates inaccurately.

How to markup?

Attach the plumb line to the wall and corner of the bath, wait until it calms down. Mark the top and bottom position of the thread, draw a line between the marks. Using the same algorithm, draw a vertical line at all free corners of the bath, there may be two or three of them, depending on the size of the bath and the room. Thus, the place of docking of the screen with the walls is indicated.
At a distance of about 3-4 centimeters, draw parallel lines next to them outside the perimeter of the bath. The specific distance depends on the frame material and finishing materials: drywall, OSB, MDF or glue and ceramic tiles.
Draw the same parallel lines on the bathroom floor. Check all dimensions again, do not make mistakes.

Further work depends on the material of manufacture of the frame. The best option is a metal profile, but you can also work with wooden slats.

Metal profile frame

Step 1. Cut the metal profile to size, as we have already described above, how to determine them. Do not deal with jumpers yet, make blanks only around the perimeter of the frame.

Step 2 Lay the long profile on the floor, one side must fit exactly on the marked line. Carefully mark the places for drilling the holes for the dowels with a marker. It is bad to work with a pencil, use a marker.

Step 3 Remove the profile, drill holes with a drill, put the profile in place and fix it. Do not immediately tighten the dowels, the slats have perforated holes, with which you can move the element a little in different directions and achieve the exact position.

Step 4. Now fix the planks to the walls. The algorithm of actions is the same. If it is planned to use a heavy OSB board for sheathing, then the vertical and horizontal profiles at the corners are interconnected with hardware.

Step 5 Fasten the profiles along the length and width against the upper side of the bathroom, you should get a solid frame. If necessary, make additional jumpers to strengthen the structure. They can be vertical or horizontal.

Step 6 Decide on the size of the door for the revision of the siphon, make a small frame for it in the right place. The position of all frame elements is constantly checked by a level. Door dimensions are at least 30 cm around the perimeter, otherwise it is inconvenient to clean the siphon.

The frame is ready, check its stability, apply multidirectional efforts from all sides. The structure is staggering - add jumpers in problem areas, achieve high stability.

Frame made of wooden beams

In terms of its performance, it is in no way inferior to the metal profile. Do not be afraid that rot will appear on the tree. There are concerns - soak it with antiseptics.

For the frame, you can use rails of various sizes. When choosing, take into account the load of the finish sheathing. A universal option can be considered the dimensions of the rails five by five centimeters. Do the markings on the floor and wall, as always. One feature - consider the width of the rails, they should go under the side shelves of the bath and not interfere with the finish. To fix the frame, use metal corners and dowels, the width of the corners is slightly less than the width of the rails. This will allow you to safely adjust the position of the frame. In addition, possible errors during the drilling of holes for dowels are easily corrected.

Step 1. Place a long bar on the floor, estimate the position of the corners. Make marks for drilling holes for dowels.

Practical advice. In order to completely eliminate the possibility of the corner going beyond the line, it is better to move it slightly inward. It is not scary that it will be screwed to the bar not in the center, but nothing will interfere with the finishing.

Step 2 Drill holes, fasten the corners with dowels and a bar to them with self-tapping screws. Adjust its position. In the same way, install a meek bar.

Step 3 Measure the height of the vertical elements. Make a gap of about 1 cm to the bottom of the sides of the tub. Fasten the segments with corners into a single structure with the bottom.

Step 4 Prepare two more long and two short ones for fixing at the top of the frame. Why two and not one? We recommend installing the first one at a distance of about 10 cm from the side, these bars are needed to control the size and verticality of the frame. On an already stable structure, it is recommended to fix one more close to the side. It is much easier to do this, the frame is more accurate. In addition, the strength of the structure is increased.

Step 5 In the right places, make a frame for the door, if heavy materials are used, then put a few jumpers. To increase strength, you can fix several spacers at the corners.

The frame is ready, you can start the finishing sheathing, fastening is carried out with wood screws.

brick screens

In terms of time, they do not take very much time, but in terms of strength, reliability and durability they are much superior to the previously described options. Prepare materials and tools. You can use bricks or concrete blocks. The number is calculated in this way.

Calculate the side and end area of the space near the bathtub that you are going to cover.
Divide the resulting amount by the area of one brick or block. Round off the number to a whole number. For a reserve, you can take one block or two bricks.

One bath will require two buckets of sand and a third of a bucket of cement. In the future, the surface must be finished with ceramic tiles, we will give a step-by-step design in the next section.

Step 1. Lay the first row of bricks on edge, constantly check its position with a level. You need to know that the masonry on the edge has its own characteristics, if they are not observed, the wall can “float”. First feature. The mortar should be slightly thicker than when laying flat. To increase the adhesion of the mortar to the side face of the brick, it should be moistened with a spray gun. Do not overdo it. The optimal degree of wetting will be determined in a practical way. The second feature. After three rows, you need to give time to the solution to harden a little. Take a break for two or three hours.

The brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern, the joints of the lower row are overlapped with whole bricks of the upper one.

Step 2 Continue work until the entire space is closed. It will be difficult to push the mortar into the gap between the masonry and the sides. It is desirable to make such an emphasis, it significantly increases the strength of the installation of the bath. Use for this purpose any narrow improvised means, such work cannot be done with a trowel.

Important. Do not forget to leave a hole for the revision of the siphon. Check the structure, remove the remnants of the protruding solution. Allow at least a day to dry.

Finishing with ceramic tiles

If the wall already has tiles, then the work is somewhat more complicated. The fact is, you need to take measures to match the seam between the tiles on the wall and the screen. There are situations when it is impossible to put a whole tile, you have to cut it into pieces. No practical experience in cutting tiles - use plastic inserts. They can even out jambs up to a centimeter, but the appearance, of course, will suffer a little. Real professionals do not use inserts for joints, their cuts fit snugly against surfaces without gaps.

Step 1. Count the number of tiles, the method is the same as for bricks. And you can buy one or two tiles in stock, you won’t need more, a very small area of \u200b\u200bthe surface to be trimmed. Glue need to buy about 10 kg.

Step 2 Start laying tiles from the bottom row. Check the position with a level or even rail, control several tiles at the same time. They must lie strictly in the same plane.

Step 3 The tile is placed on an uneven surface, it is impossible to use a comb. Apply glue with a spatula along the edges and in the center of the tile, about one centimeter thick. Next, the tile must be pressed and moved to the left to the right until the position is leveled. The final adjustment is done with a level. Don't forget to use crosses. Some beginners install crosses flat on the four corners of the joint. This should not be done for several reasons. Firstly, it is much more difficult to level the tile, the cross will constantly shift the nearby one. Secondly, there will be problems with removing the cross, you will have to pick out each one with a knife.

Step 4 No experience - use plastic elements in the corners and joints, they make the job much easier.

Step 5. You can start in about two hours. The color of the material should be in harmony with the tiles and the overall design of the room. Excess grout is removed with a damp cloth or sponge. Do not wait until it is completely dry, dry material is difficult to clean.

Finishing with OSB boards or drywall

Finishing with tiles is much easier than laying ceramic tiles. How is it done?

Step 1. Take the dimensions of the frame, mark the plate. As a rule, the length of the bath exceeds the length of the plate, you will have to join. Such a probability must be foreseen even during the manufacture of the frame and a vertical stand should be installed at the docking point.

Cut off all blanks. Drywall is easily cut with a mounting knife, for OSB you will need a hand-held electric saw or a jigsaw.

Step 2. Fix the elements in turn with self-tapping screws, carefully work with drywall. With great efforts to tighten the self-tapping screws, their heads fall into the gypsum, and new ones have to be screwed in.

Step 3 Screw small hinges at the door installation site. Check door functionality.

Step 4 Proceed to surface finishing. You can use ceramic tiles - long and expensive. There is an easier option - paste over the surfaces with a self-adhesive decorative film, today there is a huge selection on sale - cheap and beautiful. In addition, you can easily change the pattern or repair the coating in case of mechanical damage. But the film has a drawback - the surface must be perfectly flat.

Practical advice. Don't try to stick the film right away without air pockets, it's almost impossible to do. Removing air is simple - pierce the pocket in several places with a needle and remove air by smoothing the pocket.

Plastic lining

The option is not the best. It is recommended to apply if the walls of the bathroom are finished with clapboard. The installation process is standard. The problem arises with the technological hole and the door. Practitioners recommend making them from drywall OSB, not wasting time on lining.

How to make sliding doors

Very simple and functional version of the screen. For manufacturing, you will need two guides and an MDF board. The disadvantage of this material is that there is a possibility of spontaneous deformation. You can get rid of it only by making a separate small frame for the doors. It is advisable to use thin wooden slats, MDF is glued to them with special glue.

Step 1. Make a frame from a metal profile, we have described the algorithm for manufacturing such structures. Check the position of all elements.

Important. For a sliding screen, it is especially important to maintain the parameters, the racks must be strictly vertical.

Step 2 Attach the rails to the frame. They can be aluminum or plastic.

Step 3 Measure the exact distance between the guides, the spread in parallelism cannot exceed 1–2 mm. Otherwise, during the opening / closing of the door will wedge.

Step 4 Cut out the doors of the desired size from the MDF board. 2-3 cm is enough to overlap. You can cut the plate with an electric jigsaw or a hacksaw. Work carefully, make an emphasis from below - the hairiness of the cut will decrease.

Step 5 Remove the bevel from the cut. Use sandpaper or a circular grinder. Install handles.

There is another way. It is the most reliable, but also the most time-consuming. It is advisable to use it before facing the walls, if they are already finished, then the work becomes somewhat more complicated.

Step 1. Remove a row of ceramic tiles at the level of the bath rim. If it breaks, there's nothing to worry about. Put a new one in its place and make the edging of the bathtub with a pattern, this will only improve the appearance.

Step 2 On the wall, draw a line for the position of the upper plane of the bath rim, draw another line at a distance of about 2 cm. It indicates the position of the protruding side of the side.

Step 3. Make a groove in the wall along the lines about 1 cm deep.

Step 4 Spread the ends of the side with sealant, put the bath in place. The sides should enter the groove a little, remove the excess sealant.

The tiles are laid, a decorative ceramic plinth is used to match the tiles

This method fully guarantees the tightness of the junction, water will never get behind the bath.

Use any method that is not difficult for you. If the technology is not violated, then the tightness of the place where the bathtub joins the wall will be sufficient.

Video - Installation of a steel bath

When installing a cast iron bath, as a rule, you do not have to worry about accidentally moving it. But how to strengthen a steel bath so that it stands still, and can it be done at all? It is not easy to achieve complete immobility of a flexible and light container, but it is quite possible, and with your own hands. In this article, we will talk about several methods for strengthening the bath, which can be used both individually and in combination.

How is a steel bath

To figure out how to immobilize a bath, you need to familiarize yourself with its device.

Most often, there are no legs fastening elements on the bath itself. This has its pros and cons. The disadvantage is the lack of a sufficiently rigid fixation of the bowl. If, however, elements of rigid fastening of the legs are provided in the bath, then under the weight of an adult, a steel bowl made of thin metal will bend, and the fastening can damage the enamel.

legs

The manufacturer completes the bath with legs, the quality of which leaves much to be desired, or their design is not conducive to securely fixing the bath. This is not a hopeless situation, as universal self-adhesive feet can be purchased.

This is just one of the measures that will somewhat improve the stability of the bath, and as the only one it can be considered only if the bath will stand apart on legs.

If another way of installing this plumbing fixture is planned, for example on bricks, then the legs will not be needed.

Mounting methods

In the event that the bath is installed separately, a frame can be made under it from a profile or installed on bricks, only then it will be necessary to sheathe the bath from all sides. As a rule, such decisions are not made when creating the original design of a large bathroom.

The most common option for fixing a steel bowl is to attach it to the floor and walls. It is more convenient to do this when the bath is installed between three walls. We will consider several relevant ways to fix this plumbing fixture:

Making a brick base.
Assembling a frame from a profile.
Construction of a podium from brick or foam blocks.
Fastening to the wall.

Brick base

Given the high levels of humidity in the bathroom and the considerable weight of the container filled with water, the use of durable and moisture-resistant bricks will be a practical approach to solving the issue of a reliable bathtub installation. Tools will require a minimum - a trowel and a container for mixing the solution.

So that later nothing has to be redone, a certain procedure should be followed.

It is important to decide at what height the bath will be installed. Many people want to raise it higher, but if the height of the front side is more than 70 cm, then it will be very inconvenient to get out of the bath without an additional step.
To install the bowl at a standard height, you will need no more than 20 ceramic bricks, 2 buckets of sand and 0.5 buckets of M400 cement.
You need to have a clear idea of where you need to lay the masonry and what height it will be. To do this, it is necessary to install the bathtub on legs in such a position as it will then stand with the siphon installed. It is important to check if there is the required slope towards the drain hole and if necessary adjust the position of the tub using the leg adjustment mechanism.
In those places where the brick base will be laid, the distance from the bottom to the floor should be measured and recorded. Where the side of the bowl adjoins the wall, you need to outline its position with a simple pencil - this will help you then correctly install the bath.
Now the container can be taken out.
Let's prepare the solution. The above components are mixed, after which water is gradually added to the mixture. The solution should be quite soft, but not liquid. To make the mixture more plastic, half of the masonry mortar components can be replaced with tile adhesive. It is more convenient to work with such a solution, and its strength will increase.
Now let's get down to bricklaying. Let's say that in the front of the bath the distance from the floor to the bottom is 17 cm, and in the back it is 18 cm. The width of the standard product is 70 cm. We need the upper brick not to reach the bottom of the bowl by about 10 mm, and the length of the improvised legs should be less than the width products.
With a brick height of 7 cm, it is clear that the masonry height will be limited to two rows (7 + 7 = 14 cm).
The length of the brick is 24 cm, so its consumption per row will be 2.5 pcs. (24+24+12=60 cm).
To make a bowl, on top of the laid second row, along the edges, you will need to lay another half of the brick (or a quarter - depending on the shape of the bowl).
2 days after the mortar securely fastens the brickwork, you can proceed with the installation of the bath.
Now we need to form a "bed" under the bath. To do this, a layer of cement is applied to the brick racks in such a way that it repeats the shape of the bottom as much as possible. Since the solution will begin to spread under load, the thickness of the applied layer in the center should be at least 2 cm.
In those places where the bathtub will adjoin the wall, tile adhesive must be applied to its edges, but not stretched along the board. It should be some kind of mound.
A bath without legs should be laid on the bed prepared for it and pressed firmly against the wall. If tile adhesive has come out, it should be removed as soon as possible by wiping the tub with a damp, but not wet, cloth.
Check the level of its position so that there is a slope towards the siphon. Straighten it if necessary.
Under the bathtub there will also be some solution that has fallen off the bed. When it ceases to be liquid, it can be returned to its place. Excess solution must be removed and the floor washed.

If the bath is long, then you should lay out another brick support in the middle of the tank.

Brick supports

If the bath is the same length as the width of the room, then to fix it, you can make brick supports, and then install a bowl on them. Often a combined method is used - both a bed and supports are made.

Corner installation

Instead of making brick supports on the wall, you can fix 2, and preferably 3 corners, and install a bath on them. This method is acceptable only if the walls are made of brick or similar durable material.

You can go the other way, leaving the legs intact, sheathe the bathtub with bricks. Then you need to take care of making an inspection window through which you can get to the siphon. Due to the fact that the steel bowl expands upwards, in those places where the whole brick does not fit, it will need to be cut off. Moreover, in such a way that when tiling, it does not protrude beyond the edge of the side of the steel product.

Wall profile frame

Making a frame from a wall profile for drywall is carried out within a few hours and will help not only sheathe, but also strengthen the already installed bath.

The floor is outlined along the contour of the bath. This can be done with a plumb line, making marks on the floor.
If the sheathing will be carried out with plastic panels, then, taking into account their thickness, the mark is shifted inward. When using plasterboard and tiles for sheathing, it is necessary to take into account not only the thickness of these materials, but also add about 3 mm to the adhesive layer.
The UD profile is fixed to the floor with dowels, and the frame is made from the CD profile. In order to prevent the bathtub from staggering, the profile should rest against the sides of the bowl.
Additionally, you can use brackets designed to fasten metal bowls to the wall.

The wall profile is not a durable material, but it will successfully serve as a support for a metal container mounted on legs.

wall mount

You can fix the bathtub more securely by attaching it to the wall. To do this, manufacturers produce a wide variety of fasteners. If the plumbing product stands securely on its legs, then it is enough to attach it to the wall. No matter how the bath is installed, it never hurts to fix it additionally.

Podium making

One of the options for securely fixing a metal bowl is to make a podium for it from bricks, foam blocks, timber, a profile pipe, a metal corner or other building materials.

A multi-level podium in a small bathroom will be inappropriate and inconvenient. If the dimensions of the room allow, then such a podium will not only be a reliable basis for a steel bowl, but also an original addition to the intended design.

Brick is more durable, but it is not always possible to use it in old-built houses due to the low bearing capacity of interfloor floors. The same applies to the frame made of ceramic concrete. Foam blocks and timber are much lighter, but can collapse under the influence of moisture, however, if you follow the recommendations outlined in the article, using the listed building materials, you can make a reliable frame for a steel bath.

Podium of foam blocks or bricks

A single-level podium should be such that the bath enters it and its edges rest against the walls. The installation height is determined by the convenience of using the product. When using foam blocks, they must be treated with moisture-resistant compounds that will prevent the destruction of the material and prevent the fungus from starting.

Timber podium

When using a beam, it must be treated with antifungal impregnation, and twice: once (or twice) the beam is processed, and then the entire structure, especially saw cuts. If the podium is much wider than the bathtub, then thick moisture-resistant plywood is fixed on top, and a hole for the bowl is cut out in it.

When assembling the frame, use only stainless steel screws. The design should turn out to be solid, but it is better to calculate the installation of the bath in such a way that, when immersed in the podium, it rests with its legs on the floor or on stands specially made for this case.

Metal structure

The podium can be made from a corner or profile pipes. It will be very durable and not heavy. The disadvantage of this design can be considered the fact that for its assembly all parts must be welded. In the conditions of an apartment, it is far from always possible to use a welding machine, and a structure welded on the street may not be able to be brought into the bathroom. Here you have to look at the circumstances. Usually there are no problems in the manufacture of a metal frame for installing a bath in it.

If the choice is stopped on a metal product, then the finished structure should be degreased, primed and painted. If possible, the frame should be attached to the wall - this will prevent its accidental displacement. Only after these steps can you begin to install the bath and sheath it with plywood.

A lot of free space in the room is occupied by a two-level podium, but if you make niches in it, then you can store toiletries there.

The article lists the main ways to fix a metal container, but in the comments you can tell about your methods and the nuances that you encountered.

Video

Watch a video about installing a steel bathtub with two walls: