Interior decoration of the balcony with siding - we do it beautifully and correctly. Interior decoration of the balcony with siding How to sheathe the balcony with siding with your own hands from the outside

Often, the balconies of multi-storey buildings, although they retain functionality, look rather unsightly. This is especially true for buildings erected in the 20th century, when more attention was paid to utilitarianism than to the aesthetics of the exterior (the so-called Khrushchev and Stalinka buildings). To make a balcony more aesthetic and elegant without spending too much money, you can use siding as the main material for the outer skin.

To sheathe a balcony with your own hands, without involving third-party specialists, the easiest way is with siding.

An additional advantage of the material is the favorable cost. You can carry out installation work in any season, without limiting yourself due to cold or heat.

Important! Siding has low frost resistance, therefore, in regions with a cold climate, it cannot be used without thermal insulation.

Prices for different types of siding

Stage 1. Selection of siding for finishing the balcony

There are three main types of siding, based on manufacturing technology.

wood siding unpretentious in care, extremely safe environmentally and is relatively inexpensive. With proper processing, wood will not rot. However, this material has a drawback: it is prone to ignition.
Vinyl siding withstands temperature fluctuations in a wide range, so it can be considered all-weather. It does not rot, does not ignite, does not fade in the sun. Many colors are available from which you can choose any suitable one.
steel siding- this is a sheet of steel coated with galvanizing for protection against corrosion and then treated with a polymer. Differs in durability and resistance to mechanical influence.

Vinyl siding is commonly used for balconies. It can have a solid color, textures are also offered that imitate any material - for example, wood.

There are other types of siding (cement, aluminum, and so on), but these three varieties are the most commonly used.

Table. Comparative characteristics of popular types of siding.

Thus, it is quite obvious why vinyl is usually preferred: such siding, being thin enough, is durable and unpretentious.

Stage 2. Selection of tools and building materials

To prepare for covering the balcony with siding, you will need:

screwdriver;
perforator or drill;
knife for installation work;
fishing line or twine;
metal brush;
nozzle for screwing screws;
yardstick;
level.

It is also necessary to choose the actual siding and accessories for it:

adjoining and end strips;
corner elements;
initial strips;
profile in the shape of the letter "G" (for window sills);
sheathing timber (50x50 or 60x60 mm);
corners of the desired size;
self-tapping screws with galvanization;
if necessary - a primer for metal surfaces.

It is necessary to carefully approach the preparation, especially when work is carried out on the second, third floor or higher. By properly preparing the balcony for finishing, you can get a good result and avoid any risks. The tool must be of high quality, tested.

On a note! It is better to purchase consumables from a trusted supplier, leaving a margin of about 10% just in case (if the work is carried out for the first time, then you can leave 20%).

Prices for popular models of rotary hammers

Perforators

Stage 3. Preparing the balcony for sheathing

Before you start covering the balcony with siding, you need to carefully prepare the balcony.

Step 1. Free the balcony from any personal items that occupy space. Clean up, sweep away debris and dust.

Step 2 Remove old cladding, windows and window frames, any decor.

Step 3 Inspect the balcony covering and main structures for damage and wear to assess the extent of the work.

Step 4 Check the condition of the fence. If it is worn out or damaged, it is better to dismantle it and replace it with a new one (for this, it is enough to take a grinder and cut down rusted metal structures). If it is a metal grating that is in an acceptable condition, then it is enough to use a channel and strengthen it.

Step 5 Clean the metal guard with a brush and then apply an anti-corrosion coating on it.

Step 6 Clean the concrete base of the balcony from cracked cement.

Step 7 Fill cracks in concrete with fresh mortar. If the damage is severe, place the crate around the perimeter to strengthen the structure.

Some operations should be given extra attention so that the result does not disappoint and does not lead to the need for an early re-repair in the future. Let us consider in more detail the installation of the lathing, the lower and upper tiers of the beams, the corners of the sheathing and our own siding. These are the operations that most often cause difficulties in the independent work.

Bar prices

Stage 4. Installation of the crate

Step 1. The crate is made up of wooden planks, between which there should be a small distance - no more than 30-40 cm. Before using the timber for the crate, it is necessary to treat it with an antiseptic that protects against decay, fungus, mold.

Mixtures must be selected taking into account that they are suitable for work in a residential area, do not pose a threat to human life and pets

Step 2 Particular attention should be paid to the upper part of the crate - the place where it is fastened to the wall. Metal rods are best suited for reliable fastening. With self-tapping screws they need to be attached to the surface of the wall and to the timber. The fasteners must be of high quality so that the crate does not lose its strength due to a static load.

The sheathing should be thinner than the thermal insulation material used on the balcony.

Step 3 Plates of insulating material are laid under the frame, and electrical wiring is placed as necessary. It is necessary to ensure that communications are not damaged during installation.

The frame can be metal, but in this case an additional insulating layer will be required. Which insulation is best to choose, the owner of the balcony decides for himself, based on the financial capabilities and technical characteristics of the insulating material. The easiest option is mineral wool, but there are more modern solutions.

Step 4 A protective membrane is placed on top of the insulation and fastened with self-tapping screws around the perimeter.

Step 5 If the balcony has a concrete base, then you need to fix the bottom of the crate with building glue and connect it to the rods with the help of clamps. When selecting the adhesive composition, the temperature conditions in the region are taken into account.

It is important that the joints between the panels must be at least 5 mm - then, even when expanding under the influence of temperature, the panels do not deform.

It is better to turn the self-tapping screws back ¼ turn - also to prevent deformation.

Installation of the lower tier

The preparation of the lower tier begins with the fact that the beam is laid on the balcony, and the side beams are nailed to the front surface with nails. If you have a woodworking tool, you can use a spike connection.

With silicate glue, the beam must be attached to a concrete base, and then foam the void from the inside of the balcony. The timber is additionally fixed with dowels if there is doubt about the strength of the balcony structure.

Important! The lower tier of the bars must have a height of at least 7.6 cm.

When mounting the lower horizontal tier, one or two rows of bars are nailed to the lower beam - a total height of 8-9 cm is obtained, and this is quite enough.

Next, you need to calculate how many strips of siding will be required for installation. Then you need to attach from one to three rows of beams to the enclosing railings so that their upper edge is about 1 cm higher than the edge of the sheathing. The first beam is best fastened with self-tapping screws, the remaining beams can be nailed from above. Usually, the installation of the upper tier takes less time than the installation of the lower one.

Usually, siding accessories are sold along with the coating itself, so there are no difficulties with its selection. To mount the corner parts, it is enough to cut triangular-shaped thrust bearings from the casing. The thrust bearings must be heated and bent at an angle of 90 ° so that the short sides form shelves under the lower edges of the corners.

The thrust bearings are fixed with screws, and the corner element is installed on the shelves. Using screws, you need to fasten the thrust bearing to both tiers of the bars - top and bottom.

Stage 5. Installation of siding

Step 1. First you need to install the starting bar, attaching it to the lower tier of the bars with the lock down.

This can be done with screws or nails. Thanks to the elongated grooves in the details, the siding will hold elastic, not rigid, so it will not swell or fall off the fasteners. Using a nail or a marking metal pencil, you need to make a recess in the middle of the groove for the screw, and then screw it in with a drill or screwdriver. Then the screw should be unscrewed ¼ turn and slightly loosened. Although there is another option.

Step 2 When the initial bar is fixed, you need to lower the bottom panel until the lock clicks, and then pull it up so that the hook enters the lock. On the rods of the railing, you need to mark where the top edge of the panel is. After that, the siding strip will need to be unhooked and removed, and the second tier of sheathing bars should be attached according to the marks.

Step 3 Holes must be made in the railing rods in order to then fix the bars with bolts or self-tapping screws. Having completed the installation of the second tier of beams, it is required to lower the siding strip again along the grooves of the corner parts and snap the lock onto the initial bar. Since there are already holes for the screws, it will be easier to fix it: just screw in the screws and then unscrew them by about ¼ turn.

Step 4 Similarly, the remaining tiers of battens and siding strips should be fixed. The upper tier should be located on the same level with the casing. To make the structure stronger, you can supplement the horizontal bars with vertical ones, thereby strengthening the entire crate.

For comparison: vinyl siding, like metal, can be used immediately. Wooden siding must be pre-treated with an antiseptic and auxiliary impregnations.

The gaps between the siding panels must be measured to the nearest millimeter so that they fit together as tightly as possible without deforming during temperature changes. According to GOST and other parameters, siding must be fixed based on the following standards.

Table. Required gap width depending on air temperature.

Air temperature during installation, °С	Gap width, mm
Below +5	11–12
+5…+10	10
+10…+15	9
+15…+20	8
+20…+25	7
+25…+30	6
Above +30	5

Can siding be installed vertically?

Traditionally, siding is mounted horizontally, but you can see examples of vertical fastening of the material. Such a solution does not have any disadvantages; it will be enough to take the necessary measurements of the width and height of each surface in order to select panels with the appropriate overall parameters.

In the first place with vertical installation comes the strength and correctness of the fasteners. Otherwise, if allowances remain, a strong wind will create an increased load on the skin, blowing into the cracks, as well as driving rain moisture into them and breaking the insulation.

Note! Specially produced vertical siding does not need additional perforation to drain condensate, unlike horizontal siding.

The work on cladding the balcony with siding can be done completely on your own, but do not forget about the advice given by experts.

Before you start working with siding panels, it is best to keep them outside for a few hours. After all, they will be located on the outside of the balcony, and therefore the street temperature is relevant for them. The panels will take their natural size, and it will be much easier to fix them - at the end of the installation, the material will not be deformed.
In order not to be mistaken with the amount of material, it is better to carry out preliminary measurements - as accurately as possible, up to a millimeter.
If the weather in a city or region is often windy, then it is better to reduce the pitch between siding fasteners. You can use a step length of 5 cm.
Balcony cladding is best started from the sides, as shorter siding is easier to install and you can practice before moving on to the facade - the most difficult side.
Do not insert fasteners into those places of the panels that are not intended for this, otherwise the material may be deformed and damaged. It is necessary to use the holes provided by the manufacturer for fasteners.
The panel does not need to be stretched during installation - it must be located freely so that thermal deformation does not destroy the material.
It is independently recommended to carry out work at the height of the second and third floors. On the fourth floor and above, work is allowed only if you have experience in such work - otherwise you can create a risk to health and even life.
A safety belt will help ensure your own safety (used by industrial climbers, you can buy it at a special equipment store).
Before starting work, warning signs or fencing flags should be installed under the balcony. You can also put on a special tape to warn passers-by. Bypassing the work site side, they will not suffer from pieces of concrete falling down and any other debris.

Prices for a safety belt from various manufacturers

Safety belt

What mistakes should be avoided?

In any independent work, you can make a number of mistakes that can affect the result in the most detrimental way. The most common and, moreover, fatal miscalculations for plating are given below.

Fasteners are not installed strictly in the center of the holes intended for this, or, even worse, not in the holes at all. Because of this, the panel can be deformed and damaged, so only the provided holes should be used for fasteners.
The siding is fixed too tightly, there is no gap between the panels. Because of this, deformations are also possible during thermal expansion. Therefore, it is imperative to leave a 1 mm gap between the panels.
They do not leave a gap between the end part of the panel and the fasteners, or they leave it too small, less than 7 mm. It is recommended to leave a gap between 7 and 10 mm thick - this will also avoid deformation.

If you avoid these mistakes, then the siding will hold strong enough and retain its technical properties for a long period. The result will please for a very long time, you will not need to carry out repeated repairs or spend money on attracting specialists.

Video - Finishing the balcony with siding outside

Any neatly trimmed outside balcony looks more beautiful on its own. Well, if it is planned to equip it with a completely functional, so to speak, “all-weather” room, then all the more you can’t do without its outer lining. It will play the role of not only a decorative finish, but also a protective layer for thermal insulation material. And it is most convenient, probably, to perform such a skin using

Agree that siding can deservedly be called the most popular material for cladding a balcony, as it gives the walls neatness, is a practical finish and can be installed on your own. Due to the fact that the developers have provided convenient fasteners and the necessary assortment of fittings, the installation process of such a cladding is quite simple and understandable. However, the peculiarities of the location of the work site itself imposes certain difficulties. Therefore, the question of how to sheathe a balcony with siding from the outside most often arises among owners of apartments located above the first floor.

Let's try to understand the features of this problem.

Why siding is ideal for cladding a balcony outside

Siding has long been a leader among finishing materials for facade surfaces. Manufacturers are trying to expand its color range, constantly working to improve technical and operational characteristics.

It is clear that the lining of balconies is for siding, so to speak, "a supporting role." The main purpose of such a material is a large-scale decoration of the facades of houses built from different materials - brick, gas silicate, concrete, wood, etc. At the same time, there is no need for careful leveling by plastering, so you can give the walls the correct clear shapes with the help of the crate, on which the siding panels will be fixed.

Whatever material the siding is made of, as a rule, the principle of its installation is quite simple and intuitive. It is only necessary to adhere to the special technological recommendations developed by the manufacturer. The well-thought-out geometric configuration of the panels ensures perfect joining in the lock part, prevents moisture, dust and dirt from penetrating under the finished skin.

Each of the types of siding that can be used for the external cladding of a balcony has its own “bouquet” of advantages and, alas, disadvantages. It is also very important to know about this in advance when planning the reorganization of a balcony or loggia.

Types of siding and their main characteristics

You can find it on the construction market - it's wood or composites based on it, plastic (most often polyvinyl chloride), metal, fiber cement.

To begin with, we will “weed out to the side” those types of siding sheathing that, for one reason or another, are of little use for the exterior decoration of balconies.

Natural wood siding requires some maintenance, which is carried out at fairly frequent intervals. And it will be quite difficult to perform for the external cladding of the balcony, especially in cases where it is glazed. Wood, of course, is good - it looks beautiful, has low thermal conductivity and can become an additional layer in the overall thermal insulation system. Therefore, it is often used for interior decoration of balconies - this is where it belongs! True, the material for interior decoration more often appears, however, not under the term "siding" - the name is usually used

Fiber cement siding has high strength characteristics, so it is great for facade decoration and plinth cladding. However, this material is quite heavy, and plus, its installation requires a somewhat specific approach. Therefore, fiber cement siding is not suitable for cladding a structure such as a balcony.

Wood-pulp siding is made using the same technology as MDF, but from cellulose fibers and sawdust, which are mixed with special resins and pressed under high pressure. From above, the material is covered with a special protective and decorative film.

Siding prices

This type of siding has an affordable cost, but it is not particularly durable, as it is not resistant to aggressive environmental influences. If the walls of a one-story private house are sheathed with this material, then with one panel damagedher it will be easy to replace with a new one. But removing the damaged part from the outer surface of the balcony parapet, and then installing a new one in its place is a rather difficult task. And the material (namely in the field of external cladding of balconies) did not gain popularity for itself.

Vinyl siding

As mentioned above, vinyl siding is most often used for sheathing parapets of balconies and loggias. It is very easy to install, presented in a fairly wide variety of shades, and can have three main types of wall relief created, which have their own names:

"Herringbone"- this type of relief is produced in a single, double and triple version, that is, one panel can imitate one or more boards interconnected by an overlay. Each "board" in this type of siding is located at a certain angle to the vertical surface, so that water does not linger on the walls and does not fall under the cladding, rolling down freely.

"Ship board" - this type of board is distinguished by a double break in the relief. The surface of the material is usually decorated to match the texture of wood with different shades. Part of the relief of the “ship board”, just like that of the “herringbone”, is located at an angle relative to the vertical surface, which contributes to the descent of water.

"Block house" is a siding that imitates a paving or log surface. This option looks very presentable and is great for facing a balcony parapet.
Plinth vinyl siding, commonly used for cladding the lower part of facades, has other shapes and sizes. Its thickness is greater than that of conventional facade panels, and is about 3.5÷4 mm. Such siding has a higher strength, but, in principle, it is also a fairly light material, and therefore it may well be used for cladding the balcony parapet. As long as it matches the chosen design style.

Plinth panels, as a rule, have a larger relief pattern that imitates brickwork or a wall made of stone of different breeds. Facing looks very aesthetically pleasing and original. As additional elements for this version of the panels, you can pick up details that will become their kind of continuation. That is, these will not be even planks, as well as having a masonry relief.

Vinyl siding panels manufactured by different manufacturers may differ in size and configuration of additional components. Therefore, if you plan to make a sheathing, for example, with a combination of colors, then you should purchase both a siding board and accessories from the same manufacturer, since, otherwise, the elements may not be compatible with each other.

Vinyl siding has many benefits, including:

Enviable duration of operation - some manufacturers claim terms of up to 50 years, although this still does not seem reliable.
Resistant to low and high temperatures and their differences. The material can be operated without compromising its quality at air temperatures from +50 to -50 degrees.
Ease of installation work.
Undemanding to special care during operation. The material does not require treatment with protective compounds or painting. Cleaning the surface from dust can be done with ordinary water, directing the jet under pressure. And many materials have a special coating that contributes to the constant self-cleaning of the surface during rain - dust and dirt do not linger on it.
UV resistance - the characteristics of a quality material remain unchanged for decades. Burnout of the lining color is still inevitable, but it occurs evenly, so it becomes almost imperceptible.
Vinyl does not support combustion when exposed to an open fire, and ignites only at a temperature of 390÷400 degrees.
The material is non-toxic, as it does not emit harmful substances into the environment.
The material is completely inert to corrosion.
PVC does not conduct or store electricity.
Facing is steady against moderate mechanical influences.
The light weight of the panels allows you to produce and install them yourself, even in difficult conditions. In addition, the material does not make the structure heavier, and can be used for facing dilapidated buildings or their elements.
The provided possibility of removal of condensate on the wrong side of the panel.
A wide range of colors with pleasant "soft" tones and excellent aesthetic qualities.

Vinyl siding also has its drawbacks, which you also need to know about when purchasing it for facing a balcony:

Low impact resistance of vinyl, especially at low ambient temperatures.
To replace a damaged panel, you will have to remove all the panels above it.
A high coefficient of thermal expansion, therefore, during installation, small gaps should be left, and fasteners should not be screwed in completely, otherwise the panels may deform or even crack.
Vinyl siding has a high thermal conductivity, so it is not designed to retain heat. Therefore, it must be used in combination with insulating materials, and it is not taken into account when carrying out heat engineering calculations.

When purchasing vinyl siding, you need to pay attention to the following characteristics:

The uniformity of the distribution of the color of the material, both on the outer and on its wrong side and on sections.
The linear dimensions of the panel and cut edges at the edges.
The uniformity of the arrangement of holes for fixing the board.
Uniform panel thickness.
The presence of cracks and dents - they should not be in principle.
Warranty obligations of the manufacturer, as well as the availability of certificates - sanitary-hygienic and fire-fighting. Quality siding should be well packaged and labeled. For any batch of original siding, sellers issue a passport and installation instructions.

metal siding

Such siding is made of different metal alloys. The metal is the basis of the panels, that is, it forms the configuration of the cladding. And then the surface is coated on both sides with a primer, and then on the outside - with a polymer coating of various shades according to the color scale, or with an imitation of the texture of natural materials - or stone.

vinyl siding prices

vinyl siding

aluminum siding

Aluminum siding panels have high enough cost and it can be explained its enviable performance. Due to the high cost, the material is not often chosen for finishing the entire facade of the building, but for facing the balcony a small number of panels are required, so aluminum siding is perfect for this purpose.

This type of siding can have the same embossed shapes as the vinyl "brother", but often differs from it in size. The thickness of the metal sheet from which the panels are made varies from 0.45 to 0.6 mm. The specific weight of 1 m² of aluminum siding is 2.4÷3.5 kg.

Fittings for this siding are similar to vinyl additional parts.

The advantages of aluminum siding include the following qualities of the material:

High resistance to corrosion.
The material is completely non-flammable.
Lightness of panels does its installation simple and fast.
High durability of front finishing.
Ease of maintenance.
Ecological purity of the material.

The disadvantages of this facing material, which are very few, can be called:

The possibility of damage during transportation, namely, the plasticity of aluminum can turn into scratches, bends and dents.
Low elasticity of the material. When a dent appears, it is very difficult to give the surface its original shape.

When buying aluminum siding, you need to pay attention to the following points:

Surface quality - the integrity of the coating, the absence of dents and scratches.
The thickness of the metal - it must correspond to the declared.
Manufacturer's warranty obligations, availability of documents confirming the originality of products.

aluminum siding prices

aluminum siding

steel siding

Of the metal types of siding, the steel version is the most popular, as it is more affordable. This type of siding is made from sheets of galvanized steel, which is covered with one of the types of protective and decorative coatings - it can be plastisol, pural or polyester. The coating can be plain or imitate the textured pattern of wood.

Steel siding is produced in different relief forms - all the same "herringbone", "ship board" and "block house". The length of the steel board can be 2000 ÷6000 mm, the width of the panel is from 120 to 550 mm. The thickness of the metal from which the panels are made is usually in the range of 0.40 ÷ 0.6 mm. Specific weight of 1 m² - 3.9÷5.8 kg.

The range of fittings is about the same as for vinyl siding.

Advantages of steel siding:

Subject to maintaining the integrity of the protective coating - resistance to corrosion.
The possibility of installation at any time of the year, since the material has practically no thermal expansion.
Fire resistance.
High durability under normal operating conditions - up to 50 years.
Relatively light weight greatly facilitates installation work.

Negative qualities of steel siding:

Possible occurrence of corrosion centers on damaged areas of the surface, as well as on the ends of the panels, at the cut site. Therefore, after cutting the board, before installing it, it is recommended to treat the cuts with an anti-corrosion compound. And it is recommended to cut the cut not with a cutting wheel "grinder" (local overheating leads to damage to the protective layer), but with metal scissors.
High coefficient of thermal conductivity.
Low color fastness, especially for inexpensive models.

When purchasing a steel version of siding, you should pay attention to the following factors:

No deformation.
The integrity of both the metal itself and its coating. Panels with scratches should be discarded immediately.
The thickness of the metal.
Guarantee from the manufacturer and the necessary documents for the certification of the material.

Zinc siding

This type of material can be called new, unfamiliar to the consumer, so it is rarely seen in facade cladding. Therefore, it will suffice to say a few words about him.

Zinc siding is made with a black coating - "anthracite", and in a gray version - "quartzite". That is, there are not many options.

Panel length from 500 to 6000 mm, width - 200, 250 and 300 mm. A characteristic feature - the thickness of the metal is 1 mm. This, of course, affects the specific gravity. Which comes up to 10 kg / m².

Zinc siding has many positive qualities, especially in terms of mechanical strength, corrosion resistance, pronounced durability. But he also has his drawbacks, which outweigh the "pluses" of the material - this is a high price and a fairly large weight. Therefore, it is difficult to work with it, especially to raise it to a height when it is necessary to clad a balcony parapet. And in general - the material has not yet gained popularity, and today it can hardly be seriously considered as a worthy competitor to other types of siding.

Based on the characteristics presented above, it can be concluded that the most optimal balcony cladding options according to aesthetic data, and in terms of performance and affordability, are vinyl or galvanized steel varieties of siding.

Prices for zinc siding

zinc siding

Add-on elements for cladding siding

To make the exterior finish look finished, neat, so that it fully copes with the role of an insurmountable barrier against the penetration of dirt and moisture, special additional elements are used.

The appearance of the additional element	Name and purpose
	Starting strip - used to install the first siding panel.
	Connecting H-profile - used in cases where the length of the purchased boards is not enough for the entire length of the wall, and they have to be extended by means of an end joint. When facing a balcony, the element can be used for ease of installation or to maintain a certain design intent in the design of the finish.
	Window trim - can be used for mounting along the upper edge of the balcony parapet under window frames.
	J-profile is used as a starter strip or as a side frame for installing siding panels when a corner piece is not suitable for this.
	J-profile - platband, used to frame window openings. In the cladding of a balcony structure, the part can be used as a starting part, or for framing the upper part of the side walls sheathed with siding.
	The wind board (J-bevel) is fixed along the cornice overhangs of the walls of the house when finishing them with siding. When facing a balcony, it is most likely not useful.
	The inner corner is useful when sheathing a balcony if it has a complex structure.
	The outer corner is used to close the junction of panels located on two walls. Siding is installed in them with its end sides.
	Molding is used to design the transition of a horizontal surface into a vertical one.
	The edging bar can be used instead of the starting bar, or to mask the transition from horizontal to vertical.
	The finishing strip is the final one in the surface cladding, and can also serve as a frame for a window opening.
	The drain strip can be fixed along the lower edge of window openings instead of ebbs or in combination with them.

To the category of necessary additional materials, it is necessary to include a wooden bar or metal profiles for arranging a frame crate. usually taken with a cross section from 30 × 50 to 50 × 50 mm. If no insulation layer is expected, then a board with a thickness of 20 ÷ 25 mm is also used.

In addition, you will need galvanized self-tapping screws and dowel fasteners of different lengths to fix the timber between themselves, the finished crate to the metal parts of the parapet, and also to fix the siding itself on it.

In order for the frame to be strong and reliable, it is best to assemble it using metal corners and plates, which are presented in a large assortment in hardware stores. m²

Carrying out calculations

In order not to acquire excess material, overpaying a decent amount for it, it is best to calculate the amount of everything you need in advance. Before making calculations, you should measure those sides of the balcony that will be sheathed with siding and find the total surface area. It is enough to simply determine this parameter in the event that the cladding will be installed only on the parapet of the structure, it is more difficult if it is planned to make a partial

To calculate the amount of siding, you need to divide the found area of \u200b\u200bthe parapet by the area the working surface of the panel of the selected siding model. So you can determine how many of them will be needed for a continuous lining of the fence.

If the balcony is sheathed completely, with the exception of the window opening, as shown in the above photo, then the window area is calculated and subtracted from the found area of \u200b\u200bthe front side of the structure. As a result, the siding area will be obtained, and the number of panels required for such a finish is already determined from it. Traditionally, a margin is also laid - about 5 ÷ 10%, since part of the material will still go into scraps - it is very difficult to avoid this.

To calculate the required number of siding panels, we suggest using the capabilities of our online calculator. Below are some explanations on how to work with it.

Even if you have already managed to glaze your balcony, then in order for it to finally take on an attractive appearance, it must be finished inside. For these purposes, you can use siding. Although this material is mainly used for exterior decoration of the balcony.

Siding is ideal for finishing a balcony, it is not afraid of moisture and precipitation, it is durable and easy to install.

Siding has a huge number of advantages that make it an ideal option for interior decoration. Next, we will talk about what should be the lining of the balcony with siding inside.

Undeniable benefits of siding

Balcony siding scheme.

Siding is a plate of a certain size, in the production process of which polyvinyl chloride is used. The thickness of the siding does not exceed 1 mm. Undoubtedly, this material has a number of advantages that make it so popular among builders:

has a high resistance to various kinds of precipitation (he is not afraid of rain, snow, or the scorching sun);
after the balcony has been sheathed, there is no need for painting or any special care;
perfectly withstands mechanical shocks;
non-toxic;
the material meets all the requirements for fire safety;
ease of installation;
attractive appearance.

Features that provide for cladding the balcony with siding

Sheathing for siding can be made of wood or metal profiles.

So, now you have an idea about the advantages of vinyl siding. What difficulties will you face during the installation process?

Sheathing a balcony implies some kind of danger. This is due to the fact that the installation process takes place at a height. If your balcony does not have a reliable fence, and, for example, only a concrete floor, then you should not bend over or climb over the fence. To implement the plan, it is best to resort to the help of specialists.

In order not to spend extra money when buying material, you must first calculate everything. To do this, you need to know the height, perimeter of the fence, as well as the width of the siding. After that, you can calculate how many panels you need. It is necessary to purchase material with a margin.

Sheathing a balcony with siding is a very laborious process. But with the right organization of work, you will be pleasantly surprised by the result.

In addition to siding, you will need to purchase batten components, a drill, screws, self-tapping screws, etc.

As for the drill, this tool must have a magnetic nozzle. This is due to the fact that the attachment of fasteners to the canopy will not be possible.

In addition to all of the above, you will need a kind of insurance. Making it is easy enough. This will require 2 pieces of fishing line (or more) and hooks tied to their tips. Those ends that do not have hooks are tied to the top of the batten, while the others will be inserted into the hole to secure to each plank.

Sheathing the balcony with siding from the inside

The siding is not attached tightly to the crate, the gap between the screw head should remain 1-1.5 mm.

Lathing installation. The first thing you have to start working on finishing the balcony with siding is the installation of the crate. It is thanks to her that each of the siding panels will be located as evenly as possible. The frame is installed perpendicular to the direction of the cladding. The distance between the slats should be approximately 40-50 cm. You can check whether you have installed the crate evenly using a specialized level. If the walls on your balcony were already initially flat, then installing a frame in this case is not necessary.
insulation layer. After you have completely completed the work associated with installing the frame under the siding, it is necessary to lay insulation in the resulting voids. Mineral wool or polystyrene can act as it. In addition to the insulation layer, you can also lay a film that will protect the panels from moisture and wind. If you use the above method of insulation, then the balcony can subsequently be used as a full-fledged room.
Siding installation. The whole process begins with the installation of auxiliary profiles. After that, the siding is cut. For these purposes, you will need an electric jigsaw or scissors for cutting metal. The first panel is installed from the very corner of the crate. The first and all subsequent panels must be checked for evenness using a level. In order to fix the siding panel to the frame, you will need self-tapping screws. An alternative in this situation can be a stapler for furniture. All subsequent panels are attached in the same way. The last panel snaps into place.

Important points of interior decoration of the balcony with siding

All the steps for installing siding have been described in detail above. Now you need to highlight some of the nuances:

Scheme of mounting the outer and inner corners.

It is very important to prepare the walls before installing the frame under the siding. This means that all dirt, dust, remnants of the old coating must be removed from the surface.
Do not forget that the installation of the crate must be carried out strictly according to the level. Otherwise, even with the slightest unevenness in the future, the siding panels will go downhill. In order to level the plane, you can use wooden bars that are substituted under the planks.
It is important to treat the crate with an antiseptic. In the future, this will prevent its decay and the appearance of fungus.
After you have completely built the crate, be sure to check it again for evenness. Next, you need to lay all communications.
The pitch of the frame can be equal to 70 cm. This distance is due to the fact that the wind enters the interior decoration minimally.
Planks located at the top are best fixed to the ceiling (if it is made of a concrete slab) and to the walls. If you do not have such an opportunity, then liquid nails can be used.
During the installation of siding, it is necessary to constantly check it for evenness. This is especially true when starting work.
After you have completely mounted the siding, you need to install all other elements: sides, details for window openings, etc.

Insulation of the interior space of the balcony

Styrofoam or mineral wool is best suited for insulating a balcony inside.

However, you can give preference to other materials, which are presented in a wide range on the construction market.

If you will use the balcony all the time, it is best to install a warm floor. Here, of course, there are 2 minuses: the high cost of this design and the additional load on the balcony slabs.

When choosing a heater, you need to pay attention to its thickness. Too thick material will hide part of the space on the balcony.

As for the ceiling, it must also be insulated. This is due to the fact that it is through its surface that 15% of the heat escapes. Work on the insulation of the ceiling is carried out in the same way as with the walls.

Now you know that siding is an ideal material not only for external, but also for interior decoration of a balcony. With a little effort, you will eventually get a good and durable result that will delight you for more than one year.

The balconies of some houses, especially when it comes to old Stalinist buildings, often have a very intimidating look. And the owners of apartments are trying to find a way to ennoble them. An option how to do this beautifully and at the same time economically is to sheathe the balcony with siding from the outside.

Types of siding for a balcony

Siding is vinyl and metal.

Resistant to temperature fluctuations from -70 to + 60 degrees Celsius, which is optimal for the use of outdoor finishing material. Does not fade in the sun, does not rot, does not combust. Siding strips come in a variety of colors. They can be mounted both horizontally and vertically.

The color palette of siding is varied

Manufactured from galvanized steel with a polymer coating. Durable and non-flammable, easy to install, reliably protects from the vagaries of the weather.

For exterior decoration of balconies, vinyl siding is more often used.

Wood grain vinyl siding

Benefits of siding

Any condition of external walls is allowed - no special preparation of the base is needed.
The versatility of the siding material - mounting on any base is allowed.
A continuous covering, thanks to a fastening of panels "in the lock".
Not very susceptible to mechanical damage.
Not very susceptible to temperature changes.
Noise isolation.
The ability to effectively insulate the balcony.
Painting and special care are not required, it is quite simple and sometimes wipe the coating with a rag.
There are no restrictions on the season when you can sheathe a balcony.
Low price.
You can make your own upholstery

standard siding sizes

Preparation for work

Required Tools

For work you will need:


or perforator	Metal brush for drill	Nozzle on a magnetic basis for driving screws	or fishing line

Materials:

Siding
Fittings for siding: joining and finishing strips, external and internal corners, starting profile, for a window sill — J profile.
Beam for crates and metal corners for assembly. The size of the beam is -30 * 30 - 60 * 60 cm.
Galvanized self-tapping screws and fastening press caps for parts
Primer for metal and cement mortar - as needed.

The result of finishing the balcony depends not only on the material, but largely on the quality of work, as well as compliance with the sequence and installation technology. At the same time, you need to be as focused and attentive as possible, especially if the decoration is performed above the first floor.

Preparatory work should begin with a thorough study and analysis of the condition of the previous coating. Previously, the area of \u200b\u200bthe balcony is freed from the furniture and things on it. If the balcony railing is in disrepair, then it is better to dismantle it, replacing it with a new and durable one. But in some cases, if the fence is made of iron bars, it is enough to strengthen it with a channel. If you still left the old railings, you need to thoroughly clean and apply an anti-corrosion solution (for metal railings).

The lower edge of the balcony (most often concrete) must be cleaned from cracked cement parts to concrete. Large cracks should be filled with repair mortar. If the concrete base has more serious damage, then it is better to place a crate around the perimeter, with cement pouring.

Stages of preparation:

Freeing the balcony from unnecessary things. The old cladding, windows, frames, decorative plates are removed. If the railing is already rusty, they are removed by a grinder.
Cementation of large cracks, knocking down cement to strong concrete near the edge.
Cleaning and priming the grate, if you decide to leave it, with a wire brush drill.

Preparatory work

Stages of work

The pitch of the battens of the crate should be no more than 40 cm from each other. Wooden bars of the crate must be treated with antiseptic mixtures to prevent the appearance of mold and fungus.

When designing the upper part of the crate, special attention is paid to its fastening to the wall. To do this, it is better to use small metal rods, which are fastened with screws on one side to the wall, and on the other - to a wooden beam. The thickness of the crate should not be less than the insulation layer.

We install a crate for sheathing a balcony with siding

Insulation plates are laid under the frame, engineering communications can be laid (if necessary). If desired, you can make a frame for metal finishing. In this case, the frame is mounted according to a similar principle, but it will be necessary to additionally lay a layer of insulation. You can use mineral wool or other insulation, more modern.

On top of the insulation, you need to lay a layer of a protective membrane, which is fastened with self-tapping screws. If the balcony base is concrete, then the lower part of the crate is fixed with special building glue, and it is attached to the bars with clamps.

Important! At the joints of the panels, there must be gaps of about 5 mm to prevent deformation of the plates when the temperature changes. For the same purpose, it is better to turn the screws back a quarter of a turn, in case the material expands.

2. Sheathing: installation of the lower horizontal belt

Laying a concrete beam on a balcony slab. The side bars are nailed to the facade. You can use a spike connection if you have a tool for processing wood.

The lower beam is glued with silicone-based glue to concrete, the balcony is blown from the inside with mounting foam. You can attach the beam with dowel nails if you are sure that the edges of the balcony panel are strong enough.

The height of the lower belt of the bars is from 76 mm. 1-2 rows of beams are nailed to the lower beam to get a total wasp height of 80-90 mm.

3. Sheathing: installation of the upper horizontal belt

First, the required number of siding strips is calculated. 1-3 rows of beams are attached to the railing of the fence, so that the upper part is 1 cm higher than the upper edge of the sheathing. The first beam is fastened with countersunk screws or self-tapping screws through the holes where the lining was previously attached. The remaining bars are nailed on top.

4. Making the corners of the skin

Accessories are usually sold complete with siding. To install the corner parts, a piece of the casing is taken, triangles are cut out in the middle of its short side - these are the thrust bearings.

The platband is heated and unbent at an angle of 90 degrees to form shelves with short sides. They will install the lower edges of the corner piece.

The thrust bearing is attached to the bars of the lower belt with screws at the corner joint.

The corner for decorating the outer corner is placed on its shelves. To the bars of the upper and lower belts, the thrust bearing is screwed with screws.

The starting bar is installed, which is attached to the lower belt of the grate with the lock down, nailed or screwed. Elongated grooves are made in the details so that the siding does not stand rigidly, otherwise it may swell or break off the mount.

With a nail or marking pencil made of metal in the middle of the groove, a recess is made for the screw, which is wrapped with a drill or screwdriver.

The screw is then backed out a quarter of a turn to loosen the strip of siding slightly. When the starting bar is strengthened, the bottom panel is lowered until the lock clicks.

Then she pulls up until the entire hook enters the lock. Make marks along the upper edge of the panel on the railings.

The siding strip is disengaged, removed, and the second belt of the crate bars is attached according to the marks made. Holes are made in the bars of the fence, through which the bars are fastened with bolts or self-tapping screws.

When the second belt is installed, the siding strip is lowered again along the grooves of the corner pieces until the lock of the starting bar snaps into place. There are already holes for the screws, fastening is made again in the middle of the mounting groove, the screw is screwed in and rotated a quarter of a turn.

The rest of the belts are attached as well.

The upper belt is combined with the installation of the casing. To strengthen the structure, you can install vertical bars.

Video: How to sheathe a balcony with siding yourself

Watch this video so that the whole process of exterior decoration of the balcony with siding is more clear and understandable for you:

All work on finishing the balcony outside can be done independently. It is important to remember the advice of professionals.

Before starting work, take the siding plates outside for several hours so that it takes its size in its natural environment. This is necessary to avoid deformation of the material after installation.

If there are strong winds in your region, then fasten the plates more often for reliability, the step should be no more than 5 cm.

In no case do not use fasteners in the panel (this will interfere with the expansion of the material), only in special holes for this.

At the time of fixing the strap, do not pull the panel, as it will undergo deformation.

If there is not enough experience in such work, then entrust the finishing of the balcony above the third floor to professionals.

It is better to start lining from the sides, especially if you are doing this for the first time. You can practice fastening on plates of shorter lengths.

It is better to measure the number of plates of the required height in advance, while all the necessary measurements must be done with maximum accuracy.

Before starting work, be sure to purchase a climbing belt for safe work.

Before starting work, set up railing flags on the ground under the balcony so that passers-by will not be injured if pieces of concrete accidentally fall when cleaning the base or in any other case of falling elements.

Common Mistakes

Quite often, especially if the finishing work is performed for the first time, the panels are attached with errors. Consider the most common.

Fasteners are not installed in the center of special holes or not in the hole at all, but directly into the panel itself. It should be fixed only in the center of the hole.

The panels are screwed too tightly, without any gap. The gap for the expansion of the material must be at least 1 mm.

At the joints between the end of the panel and the fastener, the gap is not made, or too small is left. It should be at least 7-10 mm.

These are the main mistakes that eventually lead to deformation of the siding panels. They bend in an arc, the fastening can be broken and this will eventually lead to the loss of the element.

So, you have received enough information to do the siding on the outside of the balcony with your own hands. Be careful when carrying out work, follow our recommendations and you will definitely succeed!

And if you have any questions, ask our experts in the comments below the article.

The interior decoration of the balcony is one of the most important factors for creating comfort and coziness on it. Lining, drywall and PVC panels are usually chosen as a finishing material.

One option may be to cover the balcony with siding inside, although it is more often used for exterior decoration. That is what we will be talking about today.

Why siding

This material is a strip of polyvinyl chloride, which have the same dimensions. The thickness of the strips does not exceed 1 mm. It has many positive features:

The material is resistant to various kinds of influences: precipitation, low temperature, heat.
After finishing does not require additional care.
Not subject to mechanical stress.
Eco-friendly.
Complies with fire regulations.
Easy to install.
It has a rather attractive and aesthetic appearance.

Material calculation

Let us now consider what features the installation of siding has. First of all, you should correctly calculate the amount of material needed.

To do this, we determine the dimensions of the strips of material and measure the surface area for sheathing. By dividing the surface area to be finished by the area of a unit of material, we obtain the number of required strips.

It is necessary to purchase material with a small margin, since during installation some trimmings are formed, for which there is no further use.

In addition to siding, you need to purchase material for battens, fasteners and a drill.

The technology of interior cladding of the balcony with siding

Fasten the first strip from the corner of the crate

The interior decoration of the balcony with siding consists of several stages. This algorithm will tell you how to sheathe a balcony with siding.

Begin work on the installation of siding with the arrangement of the crate. It provides an even arrangement of strips of sheathing material, eliminates the occurrence of distortions. Lathing slats are positioned so that they are perpendicular to the placement of the siding strips. The step of placing the planks is about 40 - 50 cm. During the arrangement of the crate, it is necessary to constantly check the level of the planks. When installing the crate, you should also pay attention to what kind of insulation will be used. Its dimensions affect the distance between the slats and their thickness.
After finishing the arrangement of the frame of the crate, we begin to fill the space between the slats with insulation. Usually, foam or mineral wool is used for this. For reliable protection of the insulation from external factors, it is desirable to lay waterproofing and vapor barrier. Insulation must be laid tightly between the battens of the crate.
Let's move on to the siding. You should start with the installation of auxiliary profiles. Then we cut the siding to the desired length using metal shears or a jigsaw. The very first strip begins to be fixed from the corner of the crate. The installation of each strip is checked using the building level. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws. Sometimes specialists use a stapler.

It is not recommended to fasten the strip with a self-tapping screw to the crate tightly. Leave a gap of about 1.5 mm. The latest strip is snapped into the installed profile.