Seasonal feeding of honeysuckle: what to use in spring, summer and autumn. Honeysuckle: planting, growing and care Names and descriptions of the best varieties of edible honeysuckle

In one place, edible honeysuckle can grow up to 20 years, but it tolerates a transplant at almost any age. From 3 to 4 years old, the bark begins to “peel off” from the plant, which peels off in long strips and thereby exposes reddish wood. Do not be afraid of this, because this phenomenon is simply a feature of honeysuckle. The wood often has to be sawn to separate the bush because it is very strong. In principle, the reproduction of honeysuckle will be discussed below. Garden honeysuckle has rather tall, erect bushes, which at 7 years of age can have a height of up to 1.8 m. In addition, the bushes are densely branched and sprawling, up to 2 m in diameter. about 12 - 18 skeletal brushes. New shoots grow annually from the buds on the growth of the previous year. In the axils of the lower leaves of new shoots, flowers are formed, and later - fruits.

Next year's crop is gradually laid down during the summer in the axils of the upper leaves in flower buds. It is worth noting that the root system of the plant extends 50 - 60 cm beyond the crown perimeter. Moreover, the roots of the honeysuckle bush penetrate quite deeply into the ground, since the root system is pivotal. At a depth of 60 - 80 cm is the bulk of the sucking roots. The location of the buds and leaves of honeysuckle is very characteristic: on a branch they are located opposite each other in rounded pairs, often have stipules. This characteristic arrangement makes it easy to identify honeysuckle seedlings, that is, they are very difficult to confuse with another plant.

The fruit of the honeysuckle is a seed, formed as a result of overgrown bracts, which is often called berries. In this article, we will also call them that.

Growing Features

Edible honeysuckle is a winter-hardy plant: its growth buds and wood can endure frosts down to -50 °C, and roots and flower buds endure up to -40 °C. As for the buds, flowers and young ovaries, they are not afraid of frosts down to -8 ° C. Honeysuckle loves the sun and loamy soil well seasoned with organic matter, in which the acid reaction is close to neutral. In principle, the plant grows well in the shade, but fruiting falls. Since honeysuckle is a cross-pollinated plant, it needs good company. For good fruiting, it is recommended to plant honeysuckle in a group of 3-4 bushes of different varieties. In hot and dry weather, especially in spring and early summer, honeysuckle should be watered, as it is moisture-loving. In regions with high air humidity, the plant also feels great, because it loves moist air. Honeysuckle does not like stagnant waters and proximity to groundwater. In such conditions, her root system begins to rot. Honeysuckle has a negative reaction to acidic soil: the crop falls and the foliage turns pale. Most of all he prefers organic top dressing, mineral does not approve.

What is the best variety to grow?

In regions with cold summers, the following varieties and hybrids are most suitable for growing: Morena, Pavlovskaya, Blue Spindle, Amphora, Sinichka, Violet, Nymph

grade Nymph
For other regions, the following varieties have proven themselves well: Sineglazka, Vasyuganskaya, Tomichka, Blue bird, Bochkarskaya, Borel, Blue spindle, Gerda, Cinderella, Chernichka and Kamchadalka. However, there are other varieties that are recommended by nurseries for breeding.

grade Sineglazka
An early variety is Morena. This shrub is not thickened, of medium height and has a rounded crown. The fruits are large, weighing more than 1 g. Up to 2 kg of crop can be harvested from one bush. The berries crumble a little, have a sweet and sour taste, without bitterness, with a pleasant, weak aroma.

Variety Nymph with an average ripening period. The bush has a rounded dense crown and medium height. The weight of large spindle-shaped berries is 1.2 g. The berries crumble a little, have a sweet taste and strong aroma, without bitterness. From one bush yield up to 2 kg.

Variety Viola is also with an average ripening period. A vigorous bush of this variety has a dense oval crown. Fruit weight about 1 g, oval shape with a slight thickening towards the top; the fruits do not crumble, have a slight spicy bitterness. It is worth noting that the Viola variety is early-growing with a high yield (3-4 kg per bush).

Variety Amphora is also of medium maturity. This medium-sized bush has a sparse rounded crown, and the yield ranges from 1.5 to 3.0 kg. Berries do not crumble. Violet belongs to the mid-late variety. The bush is slightly sprawling, medium size, dense, with a weak shedding of fruits. Productivity 1.3 - 1.8 kg. Berries without bitterness, with sweet and sour taste.

Planting honeysuckle

Considering the fact that the vegetation of the plant ends early, that is, edible honeysuckle goes into a dormant state by the end of July, all growth processes in the plant stop by this time. As a result, no matter what changes occur in the external environment, they will not cause bud break until spring. Thanks to this fact, planting honeysuckle can be done from August to mid-November. Spring planting and transplanting can be done exclusively by transshipment along with a large clod of earth from one place to another.

No transportation and planting of a seedling from a container in the spring can be done!

However, in spring, the plants still do not take root well and get sick. This can be explained by the fact that honeysuckle wakes up very early. Her buds begin to bloom already in late March - early April, and from that moment it is undesirable to disturb the plant. Choose a place for planting honeysuckle in such a way that the plant is further illuminated by the sun throughout the day. In addition, you don’t have to worry about protection from the north winds, that is, you can plant honeysuckle even on the north side of the site. Alternatively, plants can be planted under the trees on the south side so that the sun constantly falls on them.

The distance between the bushes must be at least 150 cm, because. in the future, the bushes will grow strongly and the passages between them will narrow. The branches of honeysuckle are quite fragile, so if they are carelessly touched when harvesting, they easily break off. Bushes can be planted as a group along the fence, and in the corner of the site. By the way, blackcurrant is a good neighbor of honeysuckle, so they can be grown in the same row.

Honeysuckle is an unpretentious plant, so it is adapted to the harsh climate and various types of soil, that is, the plant does not require special care. But if you plant honeysuckle in an undeveloped area right on the virgin lands, then the quantity and quality of berries will decrease significantly. In other words, under such conditions, the plant is not worth acquiring at all.

Planting holes should be dug 40 x 40 x 40 cm in size. After that, the hole should be filled with well-rotted compost. Under each bush you will need 2 buckets of compost. Then you need to add 3 tablespoons of double granular superphosphate and a liter jar of ash. Instead of ash, you can use dolomite, chalk or half a liter jar of lime, or add 2 tablespoons of potash fertilizer to 3 tablespoons of superphosphate.

When planting honeysuckle on sandy soil, the dose of organic matter should be increased to 3 buckets. Next, it all needs to be mixed well and poured with water so that the soil is moist throughout the depth of the pit. Then make a small mound in the center of the hole. Straighten the roots of the plant. If you find broken roots, cut them to the whole part. Lower the plant into the prepared hole and cover the top with any loose soil, such as dug out of the hole. In order for the soil to adhere well to the roots, it must be watered again and more soil should be poured on top.

When planting, honeysuckle can not be deepened, since it does not give basal offspring, but according to observations, it is better to deepen the root neck when planting by 5-6 cm. With age, additional adventitious roots will form on the lower, deepened part of the stem. After planting, you need to immediately mulch the soil to prevent evaporation of moisture. Any mulching material can be used, including even multiple layers of newspaper.

Please note that, unlike many berry bushes, honeysuckle bushes do not need to be cut and shortened when planting, otherwise the growth and development of the plant will be delayed, which will adversely affect the entry of honeysuckle into fruiting. After all, the value of the plant lies precisely in the rapid entry into fruiting.

Honeysuckle top dressing

Further care of the plant consists in the timely pruning of dried, broken branches, as well as branches growing inside the crown and thickening the bush. The best time to do this is early September. The first 3 years the plant needs only timely watering and weeding from weeds. Organics must be applied under the bush, starting from the third year. It is enough in the spring to add a bucket of organic matter under each bush, and at the end of August, half a liter jar of ash. Nitrogen top dressing should be given literally on melting snow, that is, at the beginning of the growing season. To do this, 1 tablespoon of urea is enough for a bucket of water under each bush. However, even if you do not do this, the plant will still give you a crop of berries, albeit a small one. With good care, the yield reaches 4 - 6 kg per bush.

It is worth noting that honeysuckle grows gradually and usually reaches its maximum value only by the age of 7. At the age of 20, due to the death of large skeletal branches, fruiting is reduced. With the help of strong pruning, the bush can be rejuvenated. To do this, you need to gradually (year after year) cut out part of the non-fruitful branches to the very trunk.

Reproduction of honeysuckle

Honeysuckle can be easily propagated by seeds. But due to the fact that honeysuckle is a cross-pollinated plant, the parental properties in its offspring are practically not preserved, that is, new varieties usually appear that are often worse than the parent ones. Although, of course, plants with berries of excellent taste may appear. It is for this reason that the seed propagation method is mainly used in breeding work, or in the case when honeysuckle is grown for landscaping.

However, every amateur gardener can use seed propagation. To do this, spread ripe berries on toilet paper, while pushing the seeds apart at a distance of 1 cm. Then let them dry. After that, write the year and roll the paper into a roll. At room temperature, seed germination lasts 2 years. It is much easier, the seeds collected in June, to immediately sow in moist soil. They need to be buried in the soil by only 1 mm, because they are quite small. Want to sow them in a box, which then needs to be put in a greenhouse, covered with glass or film on top, but in such a way that it does not touch the soil. The only thing you need to make sure that the top layer of soil does not dry out. Emergence of seedlings begins approximately 3 weeks after sowing.

It is necessary to take out the boxes on the street in late autumn. Winter-hardy seedlings will easily endure wintering under snow. Seeds of the current summer can also be sown in late October - November. In this case, the box with the sown seeds should simply be left on the street, where it will winter under the snow. As a result, the seeds will undergo natural stratification and sprout in early spring. For the rapid emergence of friendly seedlings, the boxes can be brought into the greenhouse in April. When the height of the seedlings reaches 2 - 3 cm, and they also have 2 - 3 pairs of true leaves, then you need to make a pick on a weed-free bed. Picking in open ground should be done according to the scheme 5 x 5 cm. In the future, constant watering, removal of weeds when they appear and loosening are necessary. A year later, the seedlings should be placed according to the scheme 20 x 20 cm. Usually, 3-4 years after sowing, the seedlings begin to bear fruit. Just at this moment, it is necessary to select those bushes on which berries are more tasty and large, without bitterness. The rest of the seedlings can be used as a green fence or simply thrown away. By the way, honeysuckle cuts pretty well.

Plants selected for taste should be transplanted into place in the same autumn. Unfortunately, you will be able to identify bushes with high yields and good taste only after 7-8 years. To preserve parental properties, honeysuckle must be propagated vegetatively, by rooting cuttings or by dividing the bush.

The division of the bush can be done only at the age of 8 - 15 years. As already mentioned, the honeysuckle bush can only be split with an ax and a saw, because its wood is unusually strong. Each separated part should have at least 2 - 3 skeletal branches, 2 stems and each root about 20 cm. It is advisable to cut the branches with a pruner at a height of 30 - 40 cm. The delenki should be immediately planted in a prepared place. Reproduction of honeysuckle by cuttings is considered more effective.

About 200 plants can be cut and planted from one adult bush. To prepare lignified cuttings, you need to use the strongest annual branches, the diameter of which is 7 - 8 mm (no less!). Cutting cuttings is performed before bud break, that is, in early spring (usually this is the end of March). The cuttings must be cut into pieces (15 - 18 cm) and planted in the garden or directly in the greenhouse. And you need to plant when the ground thaws. It is necessary to deepen the cuttings into the soil by 10 cm, but in such a way that only 2 upper buds remain above the surface. To increase the survival rate of the cuttings, they need to be covered with a film or lutrasil. About a month after rooting, the cuttings begin to develop roots.

Honeysuckle can be cuttings immediately after flowering, that is, in May. To do this, you need to cut off last year's (annual shoot) from the plant, on which the growing shoots of this year are located. You need to cut into pieces so that at the base of each young shoot there is a piece of last year's branch on which it grew. When planting such cuttings on a garden bed, they need to be buried in the soil by 3-5 cm. It is recommended to put a film cover over them and water moderately 2-3 times a day. The shoot tips of the cuttings will begin to grow after about 2 weeks. At the same time, roots will begin to form at the base. Transplanting into place should be done only next fall. Such cuttings are called combined.

In addition, honeysuckle can be propagated by green cuttings. It has been noticed that the best cuttings are obtained just from the green growing shoots of the current year at the moment of attenuation of their growth. At this time, the fruits of the honeysuckle begin to stain. This period usually falls at the beginning of June. The thickness and size of cuttings cut from green young shoots should be about a pencil. They are rooted in the soil in the same way as lignified ones. The only condition is that the air and soil in the cutting must be constantly moist.

If the cuttings are held in a solution of "Heteroauxin" or "Kornevin" before rooting, then their survival rate will be much better and faster. Grown seedlings can be transplanted into place next fall. For better rooting of cuttings, it is convenient to use "Hydrogel" or "Aquadon". These preparations will keep the soil in the rooting zone constantly moist. When planting honeysuckle in place, it is useful to use AVA fertilizer. It is enough to add 1 tablespoon of this wonderful fertilizer under the roots of each bush to replace superphosphate, potassium or ash. Re-fertilizing with this fertilizer will need to be done after 3 years. When re-fertilizing, the fertilizer must be loosened into the top layer of soil in the zone of sucking roots (as mentioned above, it is located outside the perimeter of the bush crown of 50 cm). The plant does not need any more mineral fertilizers. All you need to do is be sure to water it in a dry one and add a bucket of organic matter after fruiting.

Pests and diseases of honeysuckle

At the time of pouring the berries, leafworms may appear, the caterpillars of which love to feast on the tops of young shoots and leaves. The second pest is the aphid, which sucks the juice from the leaves, which leads to their yellowing. Sometimes honeysuckle can be damaged by willow scale, which is clearly visible on the bark in the form of dense, convex "commas". This pest sucks the juice from the bark.

this is what the shields look like
The safest and easiest way to deal with all of the listed pests is by spraying the bush with Fitoverm. You need to spray in the evening. Instead of "Fitoverma" you can use the drugs "Iskra - bio" or "Agravertin". In rare years, powdery mildew may appear on honeysuckle, but basically it does not suffer from any diseases. When powdery mildew appears, use the Fitosporin solution. The listed drugs are not poisons, they are biological, so they will not cause any harm to your garden and you.

Useful properties of honeysuckle

This plant is primarily valuable for its unpretentiousness, resistance to pests, diseases and frost resistance. The ripening of honeysuckle berries occurs earlier than all other berry crops. From them you can make compotes, juices, cook jam or just eat it raw. In addition, you can freeze. Due to its medicinal properties, honeysuckle has been valued since ancient times. With the help of biochemical studies, the indispensability of honeysuckle as a medical and dietary food was even confirmed. This is due to the fact that its berries are a storehouse of biologically active substances and vitamins.

In the early ripening period lies the special value of honeysuckle, thanks to which it is possible to make up for a vitamin deficiency in early summer. The berries contain easily digestible sucrose, sugars, fructose and glucose, as well as almost all the vitamins and organic acids that the human body needs. In addition, the berries contain magnesium, potassium, iron, calcium, zinc, silicon, iodine, copper and other trace elements. With cardiovascular diseases, it is recommended to use honeysuckle berries to strengthen blood vessels, as well as for hypertension, bleeding caused by fragility of blood vessels, with a breakdown caused by beriberi, and anemia.

Culinary recipes with honeysuckle

To prepare honeysuckle jelly, you need 1 tablespoon of starch, 500 g of berries, 3 liters of water and 300 g of sugar. It is necessary to lower sugar with berries into boiling water and boil for 5-7 minutes. Dilute starch in a glass of cold but boiled water and pour, stirring, into boiling jelly. Remove from heat as soon as the jelly begins to boil again. To prepare honeysuckle juice, you need 300 g of sugar and 1 liter of juice. It is necessary to squeeze the juice from the berries, then pour the pulp with boiling water (1 l) and boil for 3-4 minutes. After that, strain and combine with juice. Add sugar and bring to a boil. It is very important not to boil! Remove from heat and pour into sterile bottles, cork them with corks and cool under the covers. Must be stored in a cool place.

To make honeysuckle jam, you need 800 g of granulated sugar for 1 kg of sweet honeysuckle. It is necessary to cover the berries with sugar and stand for 8 hours. Then heat slowly, bring to a boil and remove from heat. This procedure should be repeated 2-3 times.

Enjoy your meal!

Series of messages "

Honeysuckle (Lonicera) is a shrub from the Honeysuckle family. There are more than 200 species of this plant: curly -, Brown's honeysuckle; shrubby - honeysuckle Korolkov, Tatar, and others.

Honeysuckle is grown as an ornamental plant and is widely used in

Lonitsera has rather large flowers of irregular shape. The color of the corolla is yellow, pink, blue, white
In order for the plant to look healthy and well-groomed, you need to take care of it.

Honeysuckle responds well to fertilizing. But it is necessary to fertilize this shrub with care so as not to harm. Otherwise, all the energy will be wasted.

Lonitser is fed with both organic and mineral fertilizers.

organic top dressing

Organic fertilizers have a long-lasting effect. Therefore, they can be made once every 3-4 years. Manure is brought in at the end of May or at the beginning of June. The consumption of organic fertilizers per bush is 7–10 kg.

You can feed the shrub with the following organic fertilizers:

manure diluted 5–6 times;
bird droppings diluted 10 times;
humus;
compost (you can read about making compost at home).

Mulching is carried out every two years. The near-stem application of humus or compost helps to retain moisture, replenish the supply of nutrients, and increase the yield of berries. The thickness of the mulch layer is about 10 cm.

Note: For good growth and development of the shrub, it is important that the soil has a neutral reaction. To do this, in the summer, ash (1 l) diluted with a bucket of water is added to the soil.

Mineral fertilizers

To increase the availability of water and mineral elements, the soil is loosened and weeded 1–3 times during the growing season. In the spring, starting from mid-April, you can safely add (10–15 g per 1 sq. M).

During this period, the plant has an intensive growth of roots and shoots. It is important to apply this top dressing before flowering. After flowering, the plant can be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

When planting a young honeysuckle bush, phosphorus top dressing is applied (10–15 g per 1 sq. M of superphosphate) to grow and strengthen the roots.

Potassium supplements are applied every 2–3 years in the fall in the amount of 15 g per 1 sq. m. After trimming the shrub, you can make a double dose of mineral elements.

For the growth and development of the shrub, it is necessary to add trace elements (molybdenum, zinc, manganese, boron, copper, chlorine). These elements are needed in very low concentrations. In their absence, Lonicera may experience deformation of the shoots, death of the tops, deformation of the leaves, chlorosis (for more information on possible diseases and pests of honeysuckle, you can read).

Berries of the edible honeysuckle variety "Blue Spindle" begin to ripen in mid-June, a week earlier than strawberries. The weight of the berry is about a gram. The variety is self-fertile, pollinated by any bush that simultaneously blooms. The berries do not ripen at the same time, allowing you to feast on the bush for a long period.

Edible honeysuckle has more than 200 varieties. They are divided according to different indicators:

Green cuttings begin at the end of June, when growth has already ended, and lignification has not occurred. Harvest the tops of branches with three pairs of leaves. The upper pair of leaves is left, and the cuttings are planted obliquely in a nursery with a wet layer of sand and peat in a ratio of 2: 1, 20 cm in height of the layer. Recessed obliquely cuttings should take root in 2 weeks. They are planted in a permanent place only next year in the fall.

seeds;

In a season when there are so few vitamins, blue droplets begin to appear on a beautiful bush with pale tender greens that melt in your mouth. Yearning for natural berries, the body almost does not notice the slight bitterness of healing fruits. The well-known vital vitamin C is contained in the berry as much as in the lemon. Only lingonberries have more potassium in honeysuckle, and in terms of other elements and vitamins, it surpasses all known berries grown in Russian gardens. And the fruits contain all the vitamins and minerals that a person needs in an optimal combination for absorption.

A variety of medium late ripening. The bush is dense, compact, small in size - up to 1.1 m. The berries are round-oval, blue-blue, with a wax coating, the surface of the berry is slightly ribbed. The mass of the berry is small, the taste is dessert, sweet and sour with a slight aroma. Productivity - up to 1.5 kg per bush, the variety is resistant to shedding.

The variety is early maturing. The bush is dense, compact, up to 1.2 m high. The berries are cylindrical, with a rounded base and a pointed top. The color is dark blue, the wax coating is strong, the surface of the fruit is slightly ribbed, the pulp is tender. The taste is sour with a pronounced aroma. Berry weight - up to 1 g. Productivity per bush - up to 1.5 kg. In the heat, the berries may crumble.

Due to the fact that the southern region from the very beginning of the growing season falls under drought and high temperatures, there are practically no fungal diseases. But there are more than one species of pests. This is an aphid, a honeysuckle finger-wing (the caterpillar eats away seeds and unripe pulp), polyphagous pests settle on honeysuckle by the beginning of ripening: rose leafworm, moth, gooseberry sawfly. They eat leaves and gnaw out growth points, and aphids suck the juice from young leaves and shoots. Therefore, a necessary condition for growing honeysuckle is pest control. Before the beginning of maturation, spraying with Fufanon Nova (Aliot) preparations is carried out twice at the rate of 10 ml per 10 l of water. For better adhesion of the preparations, 40 g of insecticidal green soap should be added to the tank mixture. But in the future, due to the fact that this is an early ripening culture, it is not recommended to use chemicals. For these purposes, biological preparations are used against pests with a short waiting period of 5 days (Lepidocid 20-30 ml or Bitoxibacillin 60-80 g). Spraying is carried out in dry weather, directing the jet of the drug to the underside of the leaves.

Before propagating honeysuckle, you need to prepare a substrate consisting of a mixture of peat and sand in a 1: 1 ratio. Growing edible honeysuckle at the initial stage requires increased attention - watering or spraying is carried out often, at least 3-5 times a day. Root formation in cuttings begins 10-14 days after planting. The survival rate of cuttings is 80-100%. The cuttings are grown without transplantation, at the rooting site, within one year. The yield of seedlings is 55-60% of the number of planted green cuttings.

How to propagate honeysuckle plant

Light yellow flowers in the axils of 2-4 pairs of lower leaves on the shoot are collected in inflorescences of two flowers in one ovary. Honeysuckle is self-fertile. This is a cross-pollinated plant. Pollinators are bumblebees, but there may be bees as well. The set of berries with free pollination ranges from 30-100%.

Edible honeysuckle owes its Latin name - Lonicera - to the German medieval healer and botanist Adam Lonitser, author of the popular Book of Herbs. Although initially the Swedish naturalist Carl Linnaeus, who first qualified the honeysuckle plant, wanted to call it "Caprifolia". That was the name of the most common variety of edible honeysuckle, widely grown in European gardens of the 16th century.

Honeysuckle The blue spindle has a weak fastening of the stalk and crumbles, therefore, during fruiting, it is better to put a non-woven material under the bush, which allows the plant to breathe, but is an excellent bedding for fallen berries. The berries are sweet, with a barely noticeable bitterness in the aftertaste. The body accepts the first harvest of summer with gratitude.

by maturity;

Conditions for growing honeysuckle from seeds

Cuttings with lignified material begin in winter. Long cuttings harvested at the beginning of winter are stored in the snow or in the basement. They are planted in a ridge only in May, at an angle, leaving the upper bud above the ground. The cuttings are rooted for 2-3 years, then they are transferred to a permanent place.

How to feed honeysuckle in spring

cuttings;

Edible honeysuckle pruning: how to prune honeysuckle in spring (with video)

Berries of all varieties of edible honeysuckle are a useful vitamin product.

Read also:

Honeysuckle berry pest control

Blue bird.

Honeysuckle berries do not ripen at the same time. From the collection of the first colored berries to mass ripening, 10-14 days pass. Many varieties of honeysuckle can be harvested in one go because they can stay on the bush for a long time without shedding. If the honeysuckle berries crumble heavily, they are removed in two steps.

Names and descriptions of the best varieties of edible honeysuckle

The second way to propagate honeysuckle is with lignified cuttings. But in this case, the yield of planting material is much less, about 30%. For cuttings, strong annual shoots with a diameter of 6-10 mm are used. They are cut at the end of March and before the start of the growing season, stored for planting in the refrigerator. Before planting, the branches are cut into cuttings up to 20 cm long. As soon as the weather permits, they are planted in a nursery, greenhouse or greenhouse in early April. When breeding and caring for honeysuckle, daily watering is necessary. Roots appear in 40-45 days. Rooted cuttings grow the following year. For successful survival, seedlings must have 2-3 branches 20-30 cm long, roots - at least 3-4 pieces 20 cm long.

Fruits are blue-blue inflorescences with a strong wax coating, the shape of the fruit can vary from round, oval, pitcher-shaped to fusiform. The size in length can be from 1-4 cm and in diameter up to 1.5 cm, the weight of the fruit is from 0.5-2 g. The taste can be sour, sweet and sour, and even bitter. In fruits - up to 20 pcs. flat brown seeds. With the name of honeysuckle varieties, as well as with a description of honeysuckle and the features of its cultivation, you can find on this page.

Honeysuckle Cinderella passed varietal tests and was registered in the register in 1983. by crumbling;

The most crucial moment for getting a healthy productive bush is its proper planting. layering;

The shrub loves a well-lit place without close groundwater standing and with light soil. A cross-pollinating plant, so you should plant several plants of different varieties. Then the ovaries of berries will be much larger. Top dressing with organic fertilizers will add yield. He loves honeysuckle ash bedding, but he does not like chemistry. Only light top dressing with urea in the spring, even before bud break, is accepted by the plant favorably. Therefore, growing edible honeysuckle is a pleasant experience, with consistently good results. All about berries: interesting facts and photos

A variety of medium maturity. The bush is taller - up to 1.5 m. The fruits are oval. The taste is good. The yield is high. Below is a description of honeysuckle varieties that have a fairly high yield.

Due to the lack of honeysuckle seedlings, gardeners can grow seedlings through sowing seeds. The collected berries can be rubbed through a strainer or simply mashed, washed from juice and pulp and immediately sown in a seed box. When growing honeysuckle from seeds, the sown seeds must be stratified in natural conditions. To do this, a box with crops is put out in the garden, in the presence of snow they fall asleep and leave them in this form until spring. In the spring they cover with films. Shoots appear no earlier than mid-April. They are grown as ordinary seedlings, seedlings dive into pots or open ground, grow until late autumn. In winter, they mulch, put arcs over seedlings and cover with Agrospan. The seed progeny of honeysuckle is highly variable, so it is advisable to keep the seedlings in the growing area until the first fruiting in order to see the fruits and evaluate their taste and other economic features. The best seedlings are transferred to the garden. Seedlings grown from seeds come into fruition a little later, they are selected for large-fruitedness, the remaining seedlings of poorer quality are discarded or used for landscaping.
The root system is taproot, densely branched, penetrating the soil to a depth of 50-70 cm, but the radius of its distribution is up to 1.8 m. Features of honeysuckle are that it begins to grow very early - this is the earliest crop among all fruit and berry crops . Leaf fall begins in October. Plants emerge from a state of deep dormancy in October-November. In warm autumn at this time, you can observe the secondary flowering of honeysuckle, fruit set and even their ripening.
In amateur gardening, honeysuckle is common throughout the country, but mainly in the northern and middle zones of gardening, in the Far East, Eastern Siberia, the Urals, Altai. It is much less in demand in the southern region, and here the main reasons are that the weather conditions are not quite suitable for it as a crop and there is no zoned planting material. Edible honeysuckle in its biologically active substances and biochemical composition is in many ways superior to other well-known berry crops.
The bush is distinguished by early fruiting, in the third year.

udec.ru

Planting edible honeysuckle in the country and caring for plants

taste qualities;

What is the value of honeysuckle

The plant should have loose soil filled with the necessary nutrition, which will allow the root system to develop quickly. Edible honeysuckle, planted and cared for in accordance with all the rules, will quickly begin to bear fruit.

dividing the bush.

How to grow honeysuckle in the garden

The biological cycle of the bush begins with an early awakening. But the cessation of growth and lignification occurs in August. Question

Planting and caring for edible honeysuckle

Actinidia plant: description and photo Bakchar giant. Blue spindle.

The optimal time for planting honeysuckle in the garden in a permanent place is autumn. Spring planting loses due to the fact that the plant quickly leaves the dormant state, the dry period affects survival. To obtain stable yields, a joint planting of 2-3 more different varieties is required. Depending on the taste preferences of the gardener and his family, the number of planted plants can be from 3 pcs. up to 10-15 bushes. Honeysuckle is planted according to the scheme 1.5 x 1.5 m. The pit for planting is not prepared in advance, but on the eve of planting. The pit should be of the following dimensions: 50-60 x 35-40 cm. At least 300-350 g of Fertik-type fertilizer and 10-15 kg of well-rotted humus or compost are added to the planting pit, thoroughly mixed with the soil. The root system of the seedling is dipped into a clay mash with a root former and is not allowed to deepen. The aerial part of the crown is not shortened. After planting, watering is carried out in two doses of 5-7 liters each time. Mulch the base of the bush. In the first two years after planting in the garden, honeysuckle does not require special care, except for weeding and regular loosening of the soil. A feature of this culture is the slow growth of the bush in the first years of life, so all care should be directed to good vegetative annual growth. Those fertilizers that were applied under the seedling during planting are enough for 2-3 years of life. Then the question arises - how to feed the honeysuckle in the spring, starting from the third year after planting in the garden? Experienced gardeners during this period begin to feed shrubs with mineral fertilizers right from early spring, adding ammonium nitrate in the amount of 30 g per plant. The introduced nitrogen contributes to active growth immediately after the release of the soil from under the snow. When planting and caring for honeysuckle in the fall, before digging the soil, fertilizer with a high content of phosphorus and potassium (Fertika autumn) is applied at the rate of at least 50 g per bush.

With skillful cultivation and care of edible honeysuckle, seedlings begin to bear fruit in the first year after planting in the garden. Bushes give a full harvest for 4-6 years after planting in the garden. During the period of full fruiting at the age of 7 to 14 years, the yield of the bush increases, depending on the variety, up to 5-7 kg. One of the features of growing honeysuckle that makes this plant very popular is an extremely rare transplant. These shrubs are durable, they can be grown in one place for 20-30 years.
Honeysuckle is a winter-hardy, early-growing, regularly fruiting crop. Honeysuckle berries are an important source of vitamins and biologically active substances in the early summer, vitamin-free period. They contain up to 9% sugars, up to 4% acids. Honeysuckle contains a lot of ascorbic acid, P-active substances, among them such important for humans as rutin, leucoanthocyanins, chlorogenic and caffeic acids. These substances increase the strength of capillaries. Honeysuckle fruits are useful for hypertension, hypotension, atherosclerosis.
The bush is low, only 0.7 meters, propagated by seedlings, and is very decorative. The yield is impressive, 20 kg / ha, up to three kilograms per bush. The berries are large, black with a bluish bloom. The taste of the berries has a strawberry hue, the skin is soft, the surface is smooth. The bush is resistant to frost and does not lend itself to numerous pests. He loves it if they choose Amphora or the Leningrad Giant as his neighbors.
yield;

An important stage will be the preliminary filling of the entire plantation area with mineral fertilizers, since in the future feeding with fats is undesirable. Therefore, for continuous digging, you need to add 2 matchboxes of superphosphate, one potash salt and a bucket of organic matter per square meter of the strip. The landing site begins to be prepared two weeks before the due date, when the edible honeysuckle is transplanted to a permanent place.

The seed method is more often used in nurseries. In the process of growing, the bushes dive at a distance of 20 cm, grow and sell them at the age of three.

Grapes - a useful plant

This is one of the best varieties of medium ripening honeysuckle. The bush is vigorous, sprawling. Berries are elongated oval, blue in color. The average weight is up to 2 g. The taste of berries is sweet and sour, delicate. The variety is winter-hardy, it is not affected by diseases and pests.

Planting and caring for honeysuckle in a permanent place

The bush is medium-sized, up to 1 m high. Pay attention to the photo of the honeysuckle of this variety: the fruits ripen spindle-shaped, large - up to 1.5 g. The taste is sweet and sour, refreshing, with a slight bitterness. The ripening period is early.

By the age of seven, there is a gradual increase in yield. The bush thickens, and it is worth pruning the honeysuckle, that is, reducing the overgrown bush. Once every 3-4 years, rejuvenating pruning of edible honeysuckle is carried out by thinning. Cutting completely skeletal branches is impractical, since then there is a very slow restoration of the crown. Before pruning honeysuckle, select a few aging skeletal branches and remove their tops, and then proceed to decorative pruning. The best terms are autumn late pruning (October - November) after leaf fall.

Honeysuckle is undemanding to the soil. It grows well and bears fruit on sandy, loamy and even heavy soils and peat bogs. Tolerates a soil solution reaction from acidic (pH 4.5) to slightly alkaline (pH 7.5). A prerequisite is a good soil cultivation, a high content of organic matter and mineral nutrition elements in it. When growing honeysuckle, one should not forget that this is a moisture-loving plant that grows well and forms large fruits with high soil and air humidity. Unfortunately, in the southern regions, it suffers from drought, can tolerate light shading, but gives a high yield in full light throughout the day. Honeysuckle is a winter-hardy crop. Even during flowering, flowers are not damaged at -8 ° C. However, the winter hardiness of honeysuckle may decrease in the southern region due to unstable winter temperatures, when frosts alternate with thaws. When growing and caring for honeysuckle, keep in mind that buds can bloom in a warm winter and then die from subsequent low temperatures.

This is the earliest berry in the new season, tasty and healthy. It ripens in the conditions of the southern region at the beginning of the second decade of May, which is two weeks earlier than the earliest varieties of garden strawberries.

Honeysuckle Bakcharskaya is famous as a variety resistant to shedding, and very productive. With beautiful large up to 1.4 grams, sweet and sour berries. This variety ripens later, but it is resistant to diseases and pests, drought-resistant. The sprawling bush does not thicken, it regulates the growth of green mass.

Promising varieties of edible honeysuckle

The size of the berries.

Pits are dug at a distance of one and a half meters, a depth of 40 cm and a width of up to half a meter. Two-thirds of the hole is filled with the upper fertile layer, the plant is placed on a mound, the roots are straightened, the stem is deepened to three centimeters, the hole is watered and mulched on top to prevent the formation of a crust.
The most common breeding method is rooting cuttings. Growing honeysuckle from cuttings is a quick way to harvest. To obtain rooting, you should bend down the shoot from the mother bush and pin it to the ground. A trench is created at the point of contact with the soil or a mound of earth is poured on top. This is where roots will develop. A new plant with well-developed roots is separated from the mother bush only the next year.
When to transplant edible honeysuckle, it is decided based on the circumstances. So, for a good survival of a bush with bare roots, only autumn planting is suitable. In the spring, you can plant a seedling obtained using the container growing method.
Among the many priceless fruits and berries grown in gardens, cultivated varieties of edible honeysuckle occupy a special place. Her bushes delight with the annual harvest of the first summer berries. The shrub is not afraid of frost up to 50 degrees, and the flowers are preserved even with return frosts up to 8 0. It is important to ensure the development of the plant in early spring with moisture, and the harvest will be.
Dessert.

Vitamin.

But you can prune honeysuckle in the spring - the video shows how this is done:

Compared to currants or raspberries, honeysuckle is not at all a popular berry among summer residents. And this is more than strange, because you still have to look for such an unpretentious shrub. Honeysuckle is resistant to low temperatures, is practically not affected by diseases and has no pests, can bear fruit in partial shade, is the first to please with the harvest, contains many vitamins and trace elements, and helps prevent a whole “bouquet” of diseases.

If this amazing berry does not yet grow on your site, do not hesitate and be sure to plant a few bushes. And we will help you with advice on how to grow and care for honeysuckle so that there are always more than enough berries.

Honeysuckle needs cross-pollination. This means that in order to obtain good yields, it is necessary to have several bushes of different varieties of honeysuckle on the site (at least 3-4). From a lonely bush of berries you will not wait.

The first and, perhaps, the only difficulty in growing honeysuckle is the choice of a landing site. The fact is that this shrub prefers both sunny, but calm and humid places. The owners of wetlands are more fortunate in this regard, but on dry soils it is rather difficult to find a sunny, but at the same time not arid and wind-protected place. Therefore, honeysuckle is often planted in partial shade, for example, along the fence.

Honeysuckle is planted both in spring and autumn. In spring, planting is carried out in May, in autumn - in mid-September.

The first step, as always, is to prepare the landing pit. Pits for honeysuckle are dug with a diameter and depth of forty centimeters, keeping a distance between bushes of 1.5-2.5 meters. The distance depends on the variety: for undersized bushes, one and a half meters is enough, and for vigorous ones - no less than two.

Two buckets of compost are poured into each pit, 200 grams of ash and 50 grams of superphosphate. A small mound forms inside the fossa. At the seedling, dry and damaged roots are cut, carefully placed on a mound and the roots are straightened so that they hang down along all edges of the mound.

Then the hole is sprinkled with a small amount of earth (and even better compost) and spilled. This is necessary to ensure better contact of the roots with the ground. Now the pit is filled with soil to the end, slightly trampled down and watered again abundantly.

Honeysuckle is very moisture-loving, so after planting it is important to prevent water from evaporating. As usual, mulch will become our assistant in this matter. Be sure to mulch the seedlings with a layer of newspaper or cardboard, and on top with mowed grass or straw. Such mulching will not only retain life-giving moisture, but will not miss a single weed.

But if you planted honeysuckle in the spring, and the summer turned out to be dry, even mulched young bushes will need abundant watering.

Do not forget to alternate varieties when planting - this is the best way to ensure pollination, and hence the ovary.

Well, honeysuckle is planted. Already in the second or third year after planting, you can expect the appearance of the first berries.

Cultivation of honeysuckle: top dressing, watering, mulching

The root system of honeysuckle is located in the surface layers of the soil, so the ground around the bushes does not need to be loosened. But honeysuckle responds with gratitude to mulching and top dressing.

So throughout the summer season, periodically sprinkle grass, sawdust, straw under the honeysuckle and feed the bushes under the root three times.

First dressing carried out during flowering. For her use a decoction of potato peelings with ash. How to prepare such top dressing can be found in the article on growing gooseberries:

A second time honeysuckle is fed during the formation of berries with biohumus infusion: a glass of biohumus is infused for a day in a bucket of water at room temperature.

Third top dressing applied after picking berries. Bushes are watered with the addition of ash.

In October, to prepare for winter, mulch the honeysuckle for the last time with kitchen waste and compost - a bucket of both under each bush.

Pruning honeysuckle

Honeysuckle forms berries exclusively on the shoots of the current year; there are no berries on old branches. Therefore, honeysuckle bushes are advised to rejuvenate every 3-6 years. To rejuvenate the bush, all old and weak shoots are cut out, leaving 3-5 of the most powerful. If the bush is already very old, it can be rejuvenated by cutting off all the branches to the base. With good watering and top dressing, new shoots grow very quickly, the bush recovers and resumes fruiting.

In the intermediate years between rejuvenating pruning, it is enough to cut dry, broken branches in the fall, as well as shoots growing inside the bush, to prevent thickening.

Finally, one more piece of advice: when picking berries, it is recommended to spread a film or piece of cloth under the honeysuckle bush. Berries ripen unevenly and when harvested, overripe ones simply fall to the ground. Fabric or film will help not to miss a single gram of the precious harvest.

We wish you success and great harvests!

Top dressing of honeysuckle in spring, summer and autumn is carried out in accordance with the gardening schedule. Fertilizers are selected taking into account the season and the condition of the bush. In order not to harm the plant and avoid its death, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the classification of drugs suitable for this crop.

Honeysuckle is a common plant. Modern biological reference books contain information about 190 varieties of this shrub. Among them there are both fruit and berry and ornamental species. On the territory of Russia, about 14 wild plants and more than 50 cultivated varieties are known. The mode and composition of preparations for top dressing depends on the species properties of the perennial.

If fertilizers were applied during planting, then they begin to feed the seedling from the age of three.

To care for honeysuckle, modern farmers use:

Mineral simple fertilizers for honeysuckle

This category of drugs is represented by various inorganic compounds. These include salts of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, as well as all microfertilizers. Spring top dressing is not complete without adding nitrogen to the soil. Simple nitrogen compounds are divided into amide, ammonia and nitrate. Russian soils are deficient in nitrogen content. Due to the lack of this element, the seedling grows slowly and deforms over time, the green mass does not reach the established norm, inflorescences and fruit ovaries are poorly formed. Regardless of which one is chosen, Siberia and the Urals, they need timely fertilization.

For honeysuckle, regardless of its type and variety, the following nitrogen compositions are suitable:

ammonium nitrate,
urea,
ammonium sulfate,
ammonium chloride.

They are applied by the root method at the rate of 15 g per 1 m² as a dry powder or an aqueous 10% solution until the bush blooms. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the properties of the soil. Ammonium nitrate is suitable for slightly moistened soils. With its prolonged use, the land under the bush acidifies and requires the application of lime fertilizers. In waterlogged soils, ammonium chloride is recommended. Ammonium sulfate is used for sandy areas.

Most gardeners feed fruit and berry crops in their plots with urea (carbomide). Due to the high nitrogen concentration (46%), it is the most effective for growing green mass in spring, early summer. Under an adult bush, 20 g is applied or watered with a solution (20 g per 10 l).

Simple phosphorus formulations in spring and after flowering

This is a group of drugs that improves the general condition of the shrub, increases the absorption potential of the rhizome, and stimulates the active formation of fruits. This category includes phosphate rock, superphosphate, double superphosphate, and precipitate. Most often, gardeners use superphosphate and double superphosphate. They are applied by the root method into the hole in the form of an aqueous 10% solution or a granular mixture at the rate of 40-60 g per 1 m².

It is advisable immediately after the shrub fades. Ornamental types of honeysuckle do not need phosphates, since their fruits are not eaten. However, some gardeners drop a small amount of granules under the tillering node in May or late June. The main thing is that the interval between nitrogen and phosphorus top dressing is at least 1 month.

Potassium for autumn

The category of simple potassium preparations is represented by 2 popular preparations - these are kainite and sylvinite. The potassium included in their composition increases the resistance of the shrub to adverse environmental influences: insect pests, soil diseases, freezing. Potassium preparations provide maximum rooting of the plant before the onset of hibernation.

For honeysuckle fertilizer, kainite is the most effective, since it contains a lower amount of nitrates. It is applied to the hole in the root method in early autumn after harvesting at the rate of 40-60 g per 1 m².

Organic complex formulations

Organic fertilizers, which include compost, bird droppings, manure, humus, wood ash, biohumus and peat, unlike mineral preparations, completely decompose in the soil, which is why they are actively used in the private gardening sector. Fruit honeysuckle prefers organic fertilizers.

Organics differ from minerals in a complex composition. It contains nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and a number of useful trace elements. Humus, peat and biohumus are applied when digging the soil at the beginning of the growing season, and are also added to the fertile layer during transplantation. If there is such a composition for her on the site, it will also be favorable.

Dry manure, bird droppings and wood ash are used as mulch. Ash has a high concentration of potassium and calcium. She is sprinkled with the root zone of honeysuckle as the soil is exposed. Bird droppings and horse manure fertilize the hole in the fall to protect the plant from freezing. In winter, a fertile pillow will have a warming effect on the root system, and with the onset of spring, it will gradually mix with the ground and will feed the shrub over the next 2-3 years.

It is recommended to lay nutritious pillows by the root method no more than 1 time in 3 years.

If organic matter is not used as mulch on the site, then it is better to feed flowering honeysuckle in the first decade of summer. You can alternately apply:

bird droppings, prepared in a ratio of 1:10;
mullein, diluted in a ratio of 1:6.

Organic fertilizers are complex, so they are applied 1-2 times per season: in spring or autumn. The consumption of organic matter per bush is minimal.

Folk remedies as top dressing after winter and the next flowering

If there are no suitable drugs at hand, you can resort to proven folk remedies. These include:

In addition to these funds, gardeners use yeast, tea leaves, banana peels.

How to feed honeysuckle for a good harvest: fertilizer timing

Plants are fed according to their individual needs. The schedule is strictly tied to the vegetative processes taking place in the shrub during the season:

The beginning of April and the middle of May is the phase of active growth of green mass, the laying of flower buds. During this period, the perennial needs mineral nitrogen fertilizers.
June is the period of active flowering, the formation of berry ovaries. The beginning of summer is the time to apply phosphate fertilizers. Ornamental shrub owners can skip this phase.
Mid-August and early September - rooting of the bush. At the end of August, most varieties of honeysuckle leave the fruiting stage and prepare for wintering. During this period, potassium supplements are needed.

Honeysuckle is an economical crop and does not require a lot of nutrients. She needs 4 baits per season, 2 of which are nitrogen in the period from April to the end of June.

Video with tips for resuscitation of plants in the spring.

The difference between dressings for ornamental and fruit species

Ornamental shrubs do not need annual phosphorus additions. Mineral nutrients are applied to the soil in the following order:

end of March - potato decoction under the root 1 time (optional);
mid-April - nitrogenous solutions are applied 1 time in 2 weeks for a month for better flowering;
end of June - phosphorus granules 1 time (optional);
end of August - potash mixtures 1 time.

Fruit crops need phosphorus, as it is involved in the growth and ripening of fruits. Mineral nutrients are applied according to the above technology with the following amendments:

end of June and beginning of July - phosphorus supplements 1 time in 2 weeks for 1 month.

Organic fertilizers with mineral fertilizers are not mixed. Transfer from one substance to another is carried out with the onset of a new growing season.