Make a lamp out of ice tape. How to make a lamp from an LED strip with your own hands. What to do if there is no finished LED strip
Content:LED lighting is increasingly being used in apartments and private houses, gradually replacing traditional light sources. LEDs have gained wide popularity due to their technical characteristics and high economic indicators. LED strips, used as the main lighting fixtures and installed in a variety of places, are in particular demand. However, the main obstacle to the widespread use of LEDs is their rather high price.
Many home craftsmen are trying to solve this problem on their own, creating original appliances, including a do-it-yourself LED strip lamp. Such designs are much cheaper compared to industrial analogues, and in terms of efficiency and quality they are in no way inferior to them. With knowledge of the basics of electrical engineering, home-made lighting devices can be made by any novice electrician.
Application of LED strips
The design of the tape is made in the form of a rubberized printed circuit board, which makes it very flexible and elastic. Thanks to this, it became possible to freely place LEDs and current-limiting resistors, without the risk of any damage. That is, when the tape is bent, all the elements located on it also move. With the help of tape, it has become much easier to make homemade lamps. It can be freely cut and pieces of the desired size can be obtained.
When working with LED strip, you must follow the mandatory rules. For example, in order not to disturb the contact between the LEDs, all cuts should be made only in those places that are specially designed for this. They are marked with a white line. At the cut site, the contacts are soldered to the power wire.
The LED strip contains a self-adhesive layer in its structure, with which it can be installed in any place. The LEDs used in the strip have different characteristics of the luminous flux. The most popular are products that operate on a voltage of 12 volts. The design features of the tape allow it to be used not only for its intended purpose, but also as the main part of home-made lamps. Such lighting fixtures usually perform the function of additional light sources for illuminating a limited space.
Preparation of materials and parts
Due to the high flexibility of the LED strip, luminaire designs can be made in a variety of options. However, they all follow the same principles used in the manufacturing and assembly process, regardless of the configuration of the luminaire.
It is recommended to stock up on the necessary materials, parts and tools even before starting the assembly. Otherwise, unnecessary haste will arise in the process of work, an urgent search for the missing will begin, which can lead to a loss in the quality of the finished lamp, and the assembly itself will be delayed indefinitely.
First of all, you need to purchase an LED strip with pre-known parameters and technical characteristics. The best fit is an 8mm wide strip. Also, you will need an aluminum corner, instead of which you can use a plastic box for wiring. The dimensions of the corner are 10x10 mm, and the length is 1.5 m. All fastening and assembly are carried out using screws. Turning the lamp on and off is done with a small switch.
More advanced designs use a power supply, a controller, and a control panel. Such a product is more expensive, but it is much more reliable in operation. The list of tools includes an electric drill, a jigsaw, a ruler and a pencil. After everything you need is prepared, you can begin the assembly process.
Lamp Assembly
There are various options for manufacturing a lamp using LED strip. The assembly will depend on the design that was originally planned for production.
The main steps for any type of product are exactly the same, so the assembly will take place in the following order:
- First of all, the exact length of the corner or plastic box planned for the assembly of the lamp is noted.
- Further, holes are drilled in the corner for subsequent fastening of the device with screws. If necessary, a small section is cut in the corner to fit the miniature switch, if it will be used.
- The finished corner is fixed in a predetermined place, after which the switch is installed, and the wires are soldered to the tape at the cut line.
- After that, the LED strip is degreased with acetone or another solvent.
- The prepared tape is attached to a corner or box. At first, it is only slightly attached to the surface, and after alignment, it is finally fixed in place.
- At the last stage, a controller, power supply or adapter capable of delivering 12 volts is connected to the tape. With the help of these devices, it becomes possible to connect the lamp to a conventional electrical network with a voltage of 220V.
Thus, a lighting device installed horizontally was obtained. Most often, such lamps are used in kitchens for countertops and hobs. In addition, they are placed above desks, located at the bottom of shelves or wall cabinets. The most optimal distance to the working surface is 70-80 cm, which makes the light completely harmless to vision.
What to do if there is no finished LED strip
Sometimes situations arise when it is not possible to purchase an LED strip or there are no funds to buy it. In this case, you can try to make the tape yourself, using separate LEDs.
Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare everything necessary for assembling the structure:
- LEDs, 1 W each, in the required quantity.
- A roll of special double-sided adhesive tape with good thermal conductivity.
- Drivers corresponding to the number of LEDs. It is necessary to pay attention to the marking, which indicates the number of outputs for the LEDs.
- Aluminum tape or other surface with a minimum thickness of 1mm. The area should correspond to 1 cm for each LED.
First, the aluminum surface is degreased, after which double-sided tape is glued to it. The lower part of the LEDs is also degreased, after which they are installed on adhesive tape, alternating positive and negative poles. The LEDs are pressed and then soldered. Then the drivers are soldered and the lamp can be connected to the power supply. After checking the performance, it can be inserted into any case and installed in various places.
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The theme of LED lighting is, in recent years, one of the most popular. In most cases, on the Internet, among home-made light sources, I had to meet lamps made of individual LEDs and installed in the body of a faulty energy-saving lamp along with a power supply.
This arrangement allows you to use an LED lamp instead of a conventional incandescent lamp without any alteration of the lamp. Some drawback of this design must be recognized as the relative complexity of manufacturing a printed circuit board, which usually has the shape of a circle. An example of the implementation of a homemade LED lamp made from individual LEDs is shown in fig. one.
At the same time, at present, LED strips have become very popular. But, as a rule, they are used mainly for decorative lighting and very rarely - as lighting. However, if not for general lighting, then for local illumination of certain areas, the use of LED strips can be quite effective. Therefore, today we will talk about creating a simple homemade lamp based on LED strip.
Rice. 1. Homemade LED lamp made from individual LEDs
LED Strip Light- this is a flexible "printed circuit board" on which unpackaged LEDs and current-limiting resistors are placed. The design of the tape allows you to cut off the necessary pieces from it, depending on specific requirements. Near the cut line there are contact pads to which the supply wires are soldered. On the reverse side, a self-adhesive film is applied to the LED strip. The most popular are 12V tapes.
At one time, I ordered a Waterproof 5050 SMD LED Strip white LED strip on ebay.com (Fig. 2).
Rice. 2 Waterproof 5050 SMD LED Strip
This LED strip has the following characteristics: light emission angle - 120 degrees supply voltage - 12V current consumption - 1.2A per 1 meter luminous flux - 780-900 Lm/m protection class - IP65
For almost a year, the tape lay idle, but when for the second time I had an electronic ballast (electronic ballast) in a fluorescent lamp used to illuminate the workplace near the computer, I realized that I needed to switch to more modern ways of organizing lighting.
The same failed lamp for fluorescent lamps with a power of 8 W and a length of 30 cm was used as a housing. Its conversion to the “LED version” is very simple.
We disassemble the luminaire, remove the electronic ballast board and glue the LED strip on the inner surface of the luminaire. In total, there were six segments with three LEDs in each segment, or a total of 18 LEDs installed with an interval of 15 mm between them (Fig. 3).
Rice. 3 General view of a homemade LED lamp
There is no need to throw away a faulty electronic ballast, its printed circuit board can be used for the power supply of our lamp. And not only the board, but also some of its components (of course, provided that they remained serviceable), for example, a diode bridge. Let's take a closer look at the power supply.
To power the LEDs, it is necessary to use power supplies with current stabilization. Otherwise, the LEDs will gradually warm up to a critical temperature, which will inevitably lead to their failure.
The simplest and best solution in our case would be to use a transformerless power supply with a ballast capacitor (Fig. 4).
Rice. 4 Scheme of a transformerless power supply with a ballast capacitor
The mains voltage is quenched by a ballast capacitor C1 and fed to a rectifier assembled on diodes VD1-VD4. From the rectifier, a constant voltage is supplied to the smoothing filter C2.
Resistors R2 and R3 serve to quickly discharge capacitors C1 and C2, respectively. Resistor R1 limits the current at the moment of switching on, and the zener diode VD5 limits the output voltage of the power supply to no more than 12V in the event of a break in the LED strip.
The main element of this circuit, which requires calculation, is the capacitor C1. The current that the power supply can provide depends on its rating. For the calculation, the easiest way is to use a special calculator, which can be downloaded from this link.
The maximum current, according to the passport data, with a length of 30 cm LED strip should be 1.2 A / 0.3 = 400 mA. Of course, you should not power the LEDs with maximum current.
I decided to limit it to about 150 mA. At this current, the LEDs provide optimal (for subjective perception) glow with little heating. Entering the initial data into the calculator, we obtain the value of the capacitance of the capacitor C1, equal to 2.079 μF (Fig. 5).
Rice. 5 Calculation of the capacitor for the power supply circuit of a homemade LED lamp
We choose the closest standard value of the capacitor relative to that obtained in the calculation. This will be a nominal value of 2.2 microfarads. The voltage for which the capacitor is designed must be at least 400V.
After completing the calculation of the ballast capacitor and selecting the elements of the power supply circuit, we place them on the board of the faulty electronic ballast. It is desirable to remove all unnecessary details (except for the bridge of four diodes). The appearance of the power supply board is shown in fig. 6.
Rice. 6 Appearance of the power supply board
We connect the LED strip to the power supply, turn it on, and check the homemade lamp in operation.
After mounting and checking the operation of the power supply, we install it in the case and place the upgraded lamp from the LED strip in the place of permanent operation (Fig. 7).
Rice. 7 Homemade lamp from LED strip
Attention! This power supply circuit is transformerless and does not have galvanic isolation from the mains. During installation and commissioning, it is necessary to strictly observe the safety regulations. The power supply must be installed in a housing made of insulating material; it must be ensured that it is impossible to touch its current-carrying parts during the operation of the lamp.
Mikhail Tikhonchuk
Section: [Schemes]
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Economical lighting lamps are already in almost every home. We suggest considering how to make an LED lamp with your own hands, what materials will be required for this, as well as tips on how to choose them.
Step-by-step development of an LED lamp
Initially, we are faced with the task of checking the operability of the LEDs and measuring the supply voltage of the network. When setting up this device to prevent electric shock, we suggest using a 220/220V isolating transformer. This will also ensure safer measurements when setting up our future LED lamp.
It should be noted that if any elements of the circuit are connected incorrectly, an explosion is possible, so strictly follow the instructions below.
Most often, the problem of improper assembly lies precisely in poor-quality soldering of components.
When calculating to measure the voltage drop of the current consumption of LEDs, you need to use a universal measuring multimeter. Most of these homemade LED lamps are used at 12V, but our design will be designed for mains voltage of 220V AC.
Video: LED lamp at home
High light output is achieved on diodes at a current of 20-25 mA. But cheap LEDs can give an unpleasant bluish glow, which is also very harmful to the eyes, so we advise diluting a homemade LED lamp with a small amount of red LEDs. For 10 cheap white ones, 4 red LEDs will be enough.
The circuit is quite simple and is designed to power the LEDs directly from the mains, without an additional power supply. The only disadvantage of such a circuit is that all its components are not isolated from the mains supply and the LED lamp will not provide protection against possible electric shock. So be careful when assembling and installing this fixture. Although in the future the scheme can be upgraded and isolated from the network.
Simplified scheme of the lamp- A 100 ohm resistor, when turned on, protects the circuit from voltage surges, if it is not there, you need to use a higher power rectifier diode bridge.
- The 400nF capacitor limits the amount of current needed to make the LEDs glow properly. If necessary, you can add more LEDs, if their total current consumption does not exceed the limit set by the capacitor.
- Make sure that the capacitor you are using is rated for at least 350 V operating voltage, which should be one and a half times the mains voltage.
- A 10uF capacitor is needed to provide a stable, flicker-free light source. Its voltage rating should be twice what is measured across all series-connected LEDs during operation.
In the photo you see a burned-out lamp, which will soon be disassembled for a do-it-yourself LED lamp.
We disassemble the lamp, but very carefully so as not to damage the base, after that we clean it and degrease it with alcohol or acetone. We pay special attention to the hole. We clean it from excess solder and process it again. This is necessary for high-quality soldering of components in the base.
Photo: lamp holder 
Photo: resistors and transistor Now we need to solder a tiny rectifier, we use an ordinary soldering iron for this purpose and the diode bridge has already been prepared in advance and we process the surface, we work very carefully so as not to damage the previously installed parts.
Photo: soldering the rectifier As an insulating layer, it is fashionable to use the glue of a simple mounting thermal gun. A PVC tube is also suitable, but it is advisable to use a material specially designed for this, filling the entire space between the parts and at the same time fixing them. We have a ready-made basis for the future lamp.
Photo: glue and cartridge After these manipulations, we proceed to the most interesting: installing LEDs. We use a special circuit board as a basis, you can buy it at any electronic components store or even remove it from some old and unnecessary equipment, having previously cleared the board of unnecessary parts.
Photo: LEDs on the board It is very important to check each of our boards for performance, because otherwise all the work is in vain. We pay special attention to the contacts of the LEDs, if necessary, we additionally clean and narrow them.
Now we are assembling the constructor, we need to solder all the boards, we have four of them, to the capacitor. After this operation, we again isolate everything with glue, check the connections of the diodes to each other. We place the boards at the same distance from each other so that the light spreads evenly.
LED connection We also solder a 10 uF capacitor without additional wires, this is a good soldering experience for future electricians.
Finished mini lamp 
Resistor and lamp All is ready. We advise you to cover our lamp with a shade, because LEDs emit extremely bright light, which is very hard on the eyes. If you place our homemade lamp in a “cut” made of paper, for example, or fabric, you will get a very soft light, a romantic night light or a sconce in the nursery. By changing the soft lampshade to a standard glass one, we get a fairly bright glow that does not irritate the eyes. This is a good and very beautiful option for a home or garden.
If you want to power the lamp on batteries or from USB, you need to remove the 400nF capacitor and rectifier from the circuit by connecting the circuit directly to a 5-12V DC source.
This is a good device for lighting an aquarium, but you need to pick up a special waterproof lamp, you can find it by visiting any store of electromechanical devices, such exist in any city, whether it be Chelyabinsk or Moscow.
Photo: lamp in action Office lamp
You can make a creative wall, table lamp or floor lamp in your office from several dozen LEDs. But for this there will be a stream of light that will be insufficient for reading, a sufficient level of illumination of the workplace is needed here.
First you need to determine the number of LEDs and the rated power.
After finding out the load capacity of the rectifier diode bridge and capacitor. We connect a group of LEDs to the negative contact of the diode bridge. We connect all the LEDs, as shown in the figure.
Diagram: connecting lamps Solder all 60 LEDs together. If you need to connect additional LEDs, just continue to solder them in series plus to minus. Use wires to connect the minus of one group of LEDs to the next until the entire assembly process is complete. Now add a diode bridge. Connect it as shown in the picture below. Positive lead to the positive lead of the first LED group, connect the negative lead to the common lead of the last LED in the group.
Short LED wires Next, you need to prepare the base of the old light bulb by cutting off the wires from the board and soldering them to the AC inputs on the diode bridge, marked with a ~ sign. You can use plastic fasteners, screws and nuts to connect two boards together if all the diodes are placed on separate boards. Do not forget to fill the boards with glue, isolating them from a short circuit. This is a fairly powerful network LED lamp that will last up to 100,000 hours of continuous operation.
Adding a Capacitor
If you increase the supply voltage on the LEDs in order to make the light brighter, the LEDs will start to heat up, which significantly reduces their durability. In order to avoid this, you need to connect a 10 W recessed or table lamp with an additional capacitor. Simply connect one side of the base to the negative output of the bridge rectifier and the positive, via an additional capacitor, to the positive output of the rectifier. You can use 40 LEDs instead of the suggested 60, thus increasing the overall brightness of the lamp.
Video: how to make a do-it-yourself LED lamp
If desired, a similar lamp can be made on a powerful LED, just then you will need capacitors of a different rating.
As you can see, the assembly or repair of a conventional DIY LED lamp is not particularly difficult. And it won't take much time or effort. Such a lamp is also suitable as a country option, for example, for a greenhouse, its light is absolutely harmless to plants.
Original do-it-yourself night lamp
Since it is easier for children to fall asleep if something glows in the room, you can make an original night light with your own hands. The boys are into cars, it was decided to take a picture from the NFS game, it will fit perfectly.
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Amaran professional LED video light (EZ Box) allows you to get a beautiful, soft and voluminous light. Suitable for photographers for shooting both in the photo studio and on the road. Quick to assemble and install, lightweight and easy to carry. The lamp consists of 672 LEDs with a high color rendering index (95+), provides soft and natural lighting, does not heat up and does not flicker even during prolonged use. Adjustable color temperature: 3200-5500K. The kit includes a remote control with a signal frequency of 2.4GHz. Works from a network or from accumulator batteries. Supplied with a convenient carrying case.
The Aputure Easy EZ Box+ Frost Diffuser softbox is Aputure's original solution for making light softer and more artistic. The inner surface is covered with a special reflective material. The kit also includes a special nozzle in the form of honeycombs, which allows you to get light with an illumination angle of 35 degrees.
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The LED ring is powered by an Adafruit Trinket 5V controller. A lithium-ion polymer battery is used as a power source. The circuit has a power switch and a potentiometer to adjust the brightness of the LEDs.
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In this article, we will consider the backlighting of the computer system unit, as one of the most common types of modding.
In the first part of our article, we will look at installing the backlight in various parts of the system unit. In the second part, we will consider the options for connecting the backlight.
1. External illumination.
This type of illumination allows you to see all the main external components of the computer in the evening.
1.1. Illumination of the front of the system unit with LEDs
Diodes used in this paragraph
To begin with, we solder the LEDs to the extreme ends in series, and also solder 2 to them 2 additional wires of 30 cm each.
Select the location of the LEDs and mark it with dots.
In our case, this is the place, next to the DVDRom, where all the inputs are located. Therefore, I had to remove the DVDRom, as well as the protective shell.
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We drill holes. We insert a chain of LEDs into these holes
1.2.External illumination of the lower part of the system unit.
This type of lighting provides for the presence of legs on your system unit, so it is suitable for experienced modders.
For this, it is best to use an LED strip.
The tape is easily cut with ordinary scissors into segments that are multiples of 5 cm. The segments are easily interconnected by wires. In this article, we will cut the tape into several pieces for clarity, but you can use 4 segments around the perimeter of the system unit.
We fasten our structure to the case using a self-adhesive layer of tape and connect
The tape from this section was used. complete range with all kinds of colors.
2. Illumination of the inside of the system unit
It is carried out in several ways.
2. 1. With LEDs().
Sequentially solder the LEDs. Solder the long leg (+) of the first LED to the short leg (-) of the other LED.
Solder the wires to the remaining two free legs.
We place the LEDs in the system unit. It is best to place them on the bottom and back wall.
2. Using pieces of LED strips.
With LED clusters, you don't have to solder each diode separately.
LED clusters are connected to each other with two wires 5 cm long, so that they can be placed both close to each other and at some distance. They are inserted into the holder and placed around the perimeter of the inside of the system unit using double-sided tape.
Clusters must be placed so that they do not interfere with the installation of expansion cards, drives and other mods. If the wires between the clusters are not enough, you can extend them yourself.
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After installing the clusters in their places, it remains only to connect the power.
Clusters are quite expensive and in most cases it makes no sense to use them. You can take it, cut it into pieces of 5 cm. As a result, you get the same thing, only for a smaller amount.
3. Illumination with LED strip.
The principle of installation is similar to the installation of LED clusters, but significantly. The tape has 2 terminals on each side for connecting wires, and is also equipped with a self-adhesive surface, thanks to which you can install the backlight without the use of additional devices. Before fixing the tape, it is better to degrease the surface. 
4. Illumination of the cooler
This is the only type of lighting where we will take wires powered from the cooler itself as a power source in order to do without unnecessary wiring.
To begin with, we take 2 LEDs and solder them according to the standard scheme.
We glue the LEDs on the inside of the cooler. We take food directly near the cooler.
Now it is enough to connect the cooler and the LEDs will work simultaneously with it.
Lighting connection.
1. To 4-pin molex connector
The 4-pin molex is the most common power connector in a computer. This connector contains four pins: +12 V (most often yellow wire), +5 V (red wire), as well as two ground pins (black). When connecting the backlight to a 4-pin molex, you can choose where exactly to connect the LEDs, to 12 or 5 volts. 
In our case, you need to connect to a 12 volt source.
Before connecting, you must first check with a multimeter the correspondence of the selected contacts, and determine the polarity. After that, you need to solder a 120 ohm resistor to the positive contact, from which, in turn, we remove another wire and connect it to the “plus” of our backlight. "Minus" is soldered to the "ground" contact of the molex connector. After that, we carefully isolate the wires and close them with heat shrink tubing.
For example, let's connect a single LED.
2. To 3-pin connector
The 3-pin connector is a standard connector for connecting fans in a computer, and such connectors are most often superfluous. Therefore, it is reasonable to use them to connect the backlight. The 3-pin connector has 3 pins: +12V, ground, and a third pin that is used by the fan speed sensor.
The connection principle is identical to the connection to the 4-pin connector. We also use a 12 volt pin and a ground pin. However, it is important to remember that 3-pin connectors are designed for connecting fans and. therefore, cannot withstand the load of a 4-pin connector. But for connecting LED backlight, it is still suitable. Also, here we need a resistor with a resistance of 220 ohms. Otherwise, there are no differences. We carry out the same operations as in the first case.
3. To the USB connector.
USB is a data connector and is usually used for this purpose, however, in addition to data, the USB connector also transmits voltage and can be used to power various devices. The USB connector has four pins: two of them are responsible for data transfer and two more are responsible for voltage transfer. The USB connector has a 5 V voltage source with a current of up to 500 mA. There are 2 types of USB connector: 4 x 12 mm and 7 x 8 mm.
The difference between them is only in form. To connect the backlight, there is no difference between them. In our example, the first version of the USB connector is used.
This type of connector requires an 82 ohm resistor. As in the first two cases, we determine the polarity and solder the resistor to the "plus". "Minus" is also attached to the "ground" contact. Close all connections with heat shrink tubing.
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Can be connected to a computer.
There is also an elegant solution - using flexible neon! In this case, a neon cord of different colors is pulled along the cables and connected to the inverter.
