How to provide all the sockets in a new apartment. We draw up a layout plan. Video: a difficult task - the correct placement of sockets and switches in the kitchen

Both the construction of new housing and the overhaul of a house or apartment involve a considerable amount of electrical work. This includes the organization of the input of a common power line, the creation of a ground loop and potential equalization, the installation of a switchboard with an energy meter, the laying of in-house electrical networks and mounting junction boxes, and, finally, the installation of lighting devices and user electrical fittings - switches and sockets.

By and large, this is, of course, a task for electrical specialists. However, many works can be done independently, provided that the home master has basic concepts in the field of physics, electrical engineering, the organization of internal electrical networks and the skills of general construction and electrical work. But it is also very important to know where exactly to place and at what height to install sockets and switches. There is a lot of controversy on this issue, but there are still certain official rules and unofficial recommendations that need to be dealt with in more detail.

The main parameters for the correct installation of sockets and switches

It should be noted right away that it is quite difficult to find exact uniform standards for the installation height of switches and sockets, for the simple reason that they do not exist. Some references to the existing "European standards" are just a desire to copy the established fashion trend of "European-quality repair", the established tradition of installing electrical appliances in Western Europe.

By the way, the installation standards existed until some time - it was they that guided the builders in the construction of residential buildings of mass multi-storey buildings. Then all sockets were placed at a height of 900 ÷ 1000 mm from the floor surface (at level lowered hand), and switches - 1600 ÷ 1700 mm (on level eye). In most apartments of the old building, such wiring can still be seen. Many homeowners are accustomed to it, consider it convenient and are not going to redo it.

What explains such parameters is now difficult to say. Perhaps this was due to security considerations - all sockets with wires coming from them are always in the view of residents, and children cannot reach the switches. On the other hand, the most dangerous points remain accessible to children - sockets, and there are no special security considerations in this, but a child under 8 ÷ 10 years old cannot extinguish the light on their own. Another likely reason for such an installation is that it was always carried out indoors on top of the walls, and such an arrangement of switches and sockets made it possible to significantly save on cable (on the scale of mass construction ongoing in those years, the savings were serious).

Nevertheless, today the adopted European ones are more in use, rather than the standards, but the traditions of installing these elements of electrical fittings. What are they?

Some building guides give the following recommendations (taking into account planning during the construction phase of the house):

• Sockets - 400 ÷ 450 mm from the level of the subfloor (floor slabs). Thus, after pouring the screed and installing the floor finish, the height will be about 300 mm.
• - 1000 ÷ 1050 mm from the rough surface, respectively, about 900 mm at the end of the finishing work.

Why is it convenient? Sockets and included power cables do not catch the eye and do not spoil the appearance of the room, and you can turn on or off the light with your hand freely lowered down. It is possible to teach children to be independent (of course, under adult supervision) - the switch is within reach for them .

It is worth mentioning right away that such “standards” exist only for ordinary living rooms. In other places, for example, in kitchens, the rules will be completely different - this will be discussed below.

There are special requirements for the installation of sockets and switches in institutions related to children - in schools, kindergartens, etc. There, in order to avoid uncontrolled actions of children with electricity by teachers or educators, these fittings are installed equally high - at a height of at least 1800 mm.

So, if we talk only about the height of the installation of sockets in residential premises, then any owner of an apartment or house has three ways:

1 — When repairing, do not change the location of any sockets or switches, or carry out the initial installation according to the usual "Soviet standards" if it seems more convenient and safer.

2 — Alter the arrangement of reinforcement elements according to European traditions, which were mentioned above.

3 — To provide for your own location, based on personal preferences and amenities - this does not contradict the existing rules.

There are much more restrictions and recommendations for other installation parameters - they are set out in the current rules for the operation of electrical installations (PUE), and they must be taken into account:

• The minimum installation height of sockets in residential premises is not regulated, the maximum height is not higher than 1000 mm. Even their location at floor level is allowed - subject to the use of special skirting boards with cable channels from fireproof materials and special types of sockets.

Special socket with placement on the plinth - right at the floor level

• In industrial premises, however, it is recommended to install sockets at a height of 800 to 1000 mm, and with the upper network wiring, you can raise them up to 1500 mm. It has already been said about children's and school institutions - at least 1800 mm from the floor level.
• In an apartment, especially when children live in it, it is strongly recommended (although not a mandatory rule) to use sockets with protective rods that automatically close the holes when the plug is pulled out.

The optimal solution for apartments where young children live - sockets with protective shutters

• Electrical wiring and electrical appliances should not be placed closer than 500 mm from gas supply risers, closer than 100 mm from window or door openings, less than 150 mm from the level of the main ceiling. If installation is planned false ceiling(suspended or tension), then both the wiring and the junction box should be below its level.
• Installing sockets in bathrooms is not recommended. If, nevertheless, it is impossible to do without it, then it should be mounted at least 600 mm from the shower or bath door. In this case, a prerequisite is the use of special sockets for wet rooms (with increased housing tightness and with spring-loaded protective covers), and with its obligatory power supply through a leakage current (differential current) of not more than 30 mA.

To complete the issue with the bathroom, you can add that you should not install sockets close to the floor surface. "Design" in such conditions does not play a special role, and it will be more convenient to use a hairdryer, curling irons or an electric razor from an outlet located at a height of one, or even one and a half meters. This absolutely eliminates the placement of the outlet above the washbasin.

• Switches are mounted, as a rule, on the wall at the entrance, from the side of the door handles. Installation height - from 800 to 1700 mm. If necessary, you can install them even higher, providing, for example, the possibility of switching on with a cord. Very often in small rooms (in hallways, in kitchens, in rooms with a small area) it is necessary to combine sockets and switches in blocks - then the optimal height for such a block is about 900 mm from the floor - the "golden mean".

In any case, no matter how the electrical fittings are located, it will be necessary to change the old sockets to new ones, the so-called "European format". They have a hole diameter - 0.8 mm wider than the old domestic ones, several and the distance between the contact pins of the corresponding plug. Such sockets withstand much larger loads - they are usually rated currents of 10 or 16 A, respectively, for a load of 2.2 kW or 3.5 kW, respectively. (For comparison, old sockets withstood 6 A, that is, only 1.3 kW, which in the conditions of modern saturation of human life with electrical appliances is clearly not enough).

In addition, if the old outlet location is not connected ground loop- you will have to deal with this closely - most modern electrical appliances have three-prong grounded plugs to ensure the safety of users (for some powerful household appliances, connection to ground loop is simply a prerequisite). A few - in a special publication of our portal.

Video: where to place sockets and switches on the wall

Prices for sockets, switches and frames

Sockets, switches and frames

Some nuances of cable installation

Once a general repair is being done, it is worth revising the cable part - if the wiring is aluminum, it is recommended to replace it with copper, with a cross-sectional area of ​​at least 1.5 mm². This section should be sufficient for fairly high currents. True, if it is planned to install household appliances with increased power, it will be necessary to lay more powerful lines.

Core cross section copper wire, mm²	maximum current under continuous load, A	maximum power load, kW	rated current triggering automatic protection, A	current limit triggering automatic protection, A	scope at home (apartments)
1.5	19	4.1	10	16	lighting, signaling devices
2.7	27	5.9	16	25	socket blocks, floor heating systems
4	38	8.3	25	32	air conditioning equipment, water heaters, washing machines and dishwashers
6	46	10.1	32	40	electric stoves and electric ovens
10	70	15.4	50	63	input power lines

Probably, it makes sense to dwell a little on the correct placement of electrical wiring.

Each socket (or socket block) must be powered from its own junction box

• Each outlet (socket group) or switch must be connected to an individual junction box. Make long hidden parallel connections from one to socket to the other is unwise, and in some cases can even be dangerous - this can easily lead to a reboot of this line with all the ensuing consequences.

• From mounting boxes with sockets or switches, strictly vertical wiring should go. This is explained simply - you can always visually determine the location of the passage of power cables in the thickness of the wall. If the line is laid in a random order - at an angle (as in the figure, pos. No. 3) or even vertically, but with an offset (pos. No. 2) from the location of the socket (switch), then it can become an object of hidden danger.

After some time, and this happens quite quickly, the location of such non-standard wiring is forgotten even by its masters. Moreover, it will be a “surprise” for the new owners of the apartment. When trying, for example, to harmlessly hang a mirror or a shelf, there is a high probability that the drill will hit a live power line with all the sad consequences - a short circuit and the need for a large-scale wiring repair.

• But on the ceiling surface of the floor slab, if it is planned to install a suspended or stretch ceiling, the wiring can be placed arbitrarily, as a rule, along the shortest distance. If a NYM type cable is used, then it does not even require additional protective insulation - it can be mounted directly on plastic dowel clamps. Cables of another type (VVGng or VVG) are placed in a corrugated plastic pipe of the required diameter.

• On the floor, under its decorative covering, power cables can also be arranged arbitrarily, along the shortest distance. However, there are also special caveats. So, if the floor is laid on wooden logs, then wiring, regardless of the type of cable, is allowed only in metal pipes, ordinary or corrugated.

If a screed is planned, then corrugated plastic pipes are enough

If the wiring will be poured with a concrete screed, then it is usually placed in a corrugated plastic pipe.

• The next question is how often should sockets be installed, are there any rules on this?

There is no specific answer. You can find recommendations - install them 1 piece per 6 ÷ 10 square meters of area. However, apparently, these "standards" are somewhat outdated, as the equipment of housing with electrical appliances is constantly growing. Therefore, it is probably advisable to think over in advance the placement of the main instruments and devices, to set a certain reserve in order to exclude the use of all kinds of tees or extension cords in the future. It is best if a plan is drawn up in advance with a fully thought-out arrangement of household items and the location of power points.

A well-designed scheme will be of great help in carrying out electrical installation work.

• And one more very important remark, or rather, good advice. When carrying out repair and electrical work, it is necessary not to be too lazy to photograph all the cable laying lines, the placement of junction boxes and other elements of the home electrical network, until they are hidden by plaster or finishing materials. It is desirable to take pictures in such a way that it is possible to bind hidden objects to stationary elements. For example, with sizing from a window or doorway, the corner of a room, a heating riser, etc. - so that you can quickly and accurately find the right node if you need any emergency, repair or maintenance work.

If planned, it is better to refer to a special publication of our portal, in which this issue is set out in more detail.

Prices for cables and wires for construction and repair

Cables and wires for construction and repair

Features of installing sockets and switches on kitchen

The kitchen is a special place for many reasons. Firstly, in terms of the degree of humidity and saturation with fumes, it differs significantly from all other rooms. And secondly, the modern kitchen is the focus of the maximum concentration of all kinds of household appliances. Many electrical appliances are used simultaneously during cooking or other household operations, so the level of total load is usually the highest here.

The table below shows the characteristics of the main kitchen electrical appliances - you can estimate the level of energy consumption when performing certain household tasks. Considering that many of them require separate power lines, one can imagine how many connection points need to be equipped in the kitchen (it is clear that tees in such conditions absolutely unacceptable and pose a serious fire hazard.

Type of household appliance	Average power consumption	Features of connecting to the power supply
Stove or hob electric	from 3500 to 12000 W	Individually routed power line
Electric oven	from 2500 to 10000 W	likewise
Washing machine	from 1500 to 3000 W	likewise
water heater	from 2500 to 7000 W	likewise
Dishwasher	from 1500 to 3500 W	likewise
Microwave	from 700 to 2500 W	Allowed to connect to a regular 16 A socket
Refrigerator (peak value - only at the time of start-up)	from 500 to 2000 W	likewise
Electric kettle	from 700 to 1500 W	likewise
Food processor (combine)	from 500 to 1500 W	likewise
Bread maker, steamer, etc.	from 700 to 2000 W	likewise
Toaster	up to 1000 W	likewise
Kitchen hood	from 500 to 1500 W	likewise
waste shredder	from 400 to 1000 watts	likewise

Obviously, a lot of outlets are needed. In addition, it makes sense to think about installing several additional switches - for example, for a waste chopper installed in the kitchen sink and for additional lighting of the workspace in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe cutting table, stove, sink.

Here, there can be no talk of any standards for the height of the installation of sockets - their location should, first of all, provide convenience, the ability to access when such a need arises, safety of use, maximum protection against moisture ingress, for stationary equipment - the secrecy of the wiring. There can be many options here - one of them is shown in the figure:

It is clear that there are many options for placing built-in appliances, and if we add to this a variety of desktop electrical appliances and the features of their use (for example, there are housewives, whose favorite kitchen accessories are constantly “registered” on the desktop), then, most likely, the spirit of absolutely identical schemes will not be found. Therefore, there can be no copying here - the plan for placing equipment and laying wiring to it is drawn up by each owner individually, but taking into account general principles.

• The power of the supplied power lines (cross-section of copper wires) has already been mentioned - it is enough to compare the data from the first and second tables above. Nevertheless, one more figure is given, according to which one can decide on this issue.

An important condition is that the total capacity of all lines supplied to the kitchen should, with a large margin, ensure the possibility of simultaneously switching on all points of consumption. In practice, of course, this should not be allowed in any case, but insurance is still necessary.

• For the hob (electric stove) and for the oven ( ifthey are independent of each other) special power sockets are installed, designed for a maximum current of 32 - 40 A. The same is true if the stove and oven are dependent on each other.

Various models of power outlets for 32 and even 40 amperes - used for high-power household appliances

• If a storage water heater (boiler) with a capacity of more than 3.5 kW is installed in the kitchen, then I also remember to connect it to a power outlet, or to an automatic machine installed on the wall in a protective box. This unit works in automatic mode almost constantly, and it doesn’t really need an outlet.
• Installation of sockets for other built-in household appliances can be provided at several levels:

— On the wall, on top no higher than 100 mm from the floor level - this will allow you to place these reinforcement elements behind a standard removable furniture plinth.

- In the cabinets of the kitchen set - provided that this piece of furniture does not have retractable or folding elements - shelves, drawers, brackets, etc., which can hook the electric cable.

- On the walls under the sink - at the maximum possible distance from water and sewer pipes. The socket in this case must be sealed with a waterproof cover.

- On the wall above the kitchen cabinets. There are usually sockets for extractor hoods, additional lighting devices, sometimes for built-in microwaves or refrigerators. The height of the sockets in this case is not less than 50 mm above the level upper surface closet.

• To connect desktop kitchen appliances, sockets are located on the wall, about 100 mm from the level (this, as a rule, falls at a height of 1150 mm from the floor level (if desired, it can be higher, up to 1400 mm). At the same time, socket blocks never must be located above the sink or hob - they must be removed at least 250 ÷ 300 mm to the side.

Instead of such a wall placement of socket blocks, special retractable or folding modules have now been actively used - in the form of opening "books" or retractable upwards for connecting "columns" with sockets.

Hidden socket block in the form of an opening "book"

It is very convenient - and the wall surface is “clean”, and appears only as needed, and even when using the device, the connection point is removed from the table surface.

Another option for hidden placement of sockets is a rising "column"

What other principles should be taken into account when placing outlets:

• The socket for built-in equipment can never be placed directly behind the installed appliance - it must be moved to the side, up or down.
• The distance from the device to the power outlet must not exceed 1000 mm.
• All, without exception, lines going to the kitchen must have their own circuit breakers and RCD devices.

When planning the laying of power lines in the kitchen, of course, it is worth proceeding from the real characteristics of household appliances. Probably, it would be better to contact an electrical organization - specialists should help draw up a project taking into account all the nuances and safety requirements. Based on this scheme, it will be possible to draw up a drawing with the placement of sockets "on the ground" - to determine the places for making rosettes zd in the wall and cutting strobes to them.

It is possible that it will be possible to save some money on laying lines. For example, if the total power of the washing machine and dishwasher does not exceed 4 kW, then they can be “planted” on the same power line with a wire with a cross section of 2.5 mm². Often one line is enough for a refrigerator and a certain outlet group. However, conclusions should still be drawn by a professional in this matter.

Video: a difficult task - the correct placement of sockets and switches in the kitchen

1. For household appliances and indoor lighting

Before installing the kitchen, it is important to plan the location of the equipment and its quantity in order to provide the necessary sockets. Standard items: stove or and oven, refrigerator, extractor hood. Optional: microwave, dishwasher, kettle, coffee machine, toaster, multicooker, built-in lighting.

When renovating, you can’t know for sure whether you will have a toaster in a few years or not, so it’s better to make a little more sockets in advance. It should be noted that not every time it will be used and connected to the network at the same time. As a result, approximately 7-8 outlets are obtained only in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe kitchen set. Add a couple more pieces near the dining table in case you need to plug in your phone to charge or want to put it there.

The recommended installation height of sockets for built-in appliances: 30-60 cm. Some place them in the basement of furniture - at a height of 5 cm from the floor. Socket outlets must not be located directly behind built-in electrical appliances. It is better to make an outlet for the hood at a height of 50-60 mm from the top of the kitchen cabinet. It must not be blocked by a ventilation duct.

Place sockets above the countertop at a height of 10-30 cm from the work surface.

2. For additional equipment

Sometimes outlets in the kitchen are also needed for a vacuum cleaner. In this case, they should be placed at a height of 30-40 cm from the floor.

The common kitchen switch is sometimes taken out into the corridor, place it at a height of 75-90 cm and at a distance of 10-15 cm from the door.

Design: AnARCHI

Placement of outlets under the TV depends on the place where you place it, and on the screen size. It is better to hide them behind the screen, but provide access to the power plugs. You will need 2 standard electrical outlets: one TV and one Internet outlet - a must-have option for modern smart TVs.

1. At the door

For the location of switches and sockets at the living room door, the same rules apply as in the kitchen: height 75-90 cm, free access for all family members with different heights.

An outlet is also needed in the entrance area: for a vacuum cleaner or a heater. On average, the height from the floor should be 30 cm, from the doorway - 10 cm.

2. In the TV zone

TV is a must for many in the living room. You need multiple outlets. The average location height is 130 cm, then they will not be visible behind the equipment. You will need 2 electrical outlets and one outlet for TV and Internet.

Design: Studio NW-Interior

3. In the sofa area

When planning sockets in the living room, you need to consider the location of floor lamps, electrical appliances, as well as additional sockets for a laptop and phone. The average height of the location is from 30 cm.

Often, when planning outlets in living rooms, technology such as air conditioners, electric fireplaces, and game consoles is forgotten. Consider the appliances you have, those that you plan to purchase, and based on this, plan the number of outlets.

4. At the desktop

Often the living room is also. In this case, more outlets will be needed. Provide 2-3 pieces in the place where the desktop will stand. It is more convenient to place them above the table so as not to climb under it every time to turn it on / off, but not everyone likes this solution aesthetically. If you have a desktop computer, you can put sockets at the bottom - it is unlikely that you will constantly turn it on and off.

Design: ItalProject

Children's room

1. At the door

At the entrance to the room, a switch is traditionally placed. Usually, the toggle switch is installed at a height of 75-90 cm from the floor, so that each family member is comfortable. It is also important to see if the switch closes the cabinet or open door - place it on the same side as the handle.

An outlet should also be placed next to the switch. It will be needed for a vacuum cleaner, heater or humidifier. Recommended placement parameters: height about 30 cm and distance from the door 10 cm. If the child is small and begins to walk, provide plugs or covers for sockets.

2. By the bed

Near the bed, you will need an outlet for a night light, a musical pendant for a crib, or another device (the same air humidifier). Do not forget about protection, this place will become the most accessible for the child as soon as he starts to get up on his own in the crib.

For an adult child, sockets will also come in handy in front of the bed, for the TV. Sometimes they can be interesting to beat in the interior, if the TV has not yet been purchased.

3. At the desktop

The student's room should be with a desk - sockets are also needed there. At least for a lamp and a computer. Where to put - above the countertop or below - a moot point. Some find it inconvenient to constantly crawl under the table to connect the device. Others don't like the look of the wires. Choose after weighing the pros and cons.

Bedroom

1. Next to the bed

A modern person needs an outlet near the bed. Charging a phone, an e-book, working on a laptop - it will be inconvenient without an outlet nearby. A block of several outlets on the sides of the bed will save you from these inconveniences.

2. Near functional areas

Further options depend on the furniture and areas that are provided in the bedroom. If this is a desktop, the rules will be the same as for the living room and nursery. If you want to hang a TV, also consider the recommendations listed above.

Design: Olga Shipkova

3. At the door

Here you need to place a switch - the average height is the same as in other rooms. There may be several switches, depending on: spots, floor lamps, sconces. Also, it will not be superfluous to provide an outlet for a vacuum cleaner.

Bathroom

The number of sockets depends on the electrical appliances that you will place in the bathroom. Standard: , hair dryer; optional: water heater and. It is important that the distance from the socket to the floor and the water source is at least 60 cm.

For the bathroom, special waterproof versions of sockets with a cover and a special degree of protection are needed. They are protected on the inside and allow water to drain if it gets inside the outlet.

Hallway

In the hallway, a socket and a switch are needed at the front door. The socket is useful for a vacuum cleaner, and it is always convenient to turn on the light immediately after entering the apartment. Sometimes switches are placed in the hallway at the entrance to the bathroom and kitchen.

If you do not like to untangle the wires and extension cords of numerous equipment, then you need to take seriously the placement of outlets in the house. How many do you need in each particular room and where is it better to place?

Everyone is familiar with the situation when you panic in search of a free socket for phone charging, and in desperation turn off the floor lamp or printer. Statistics show that a modern person uses an average of six electrical appliances daily. Every year the number of devices and gadgets is increasing, without which we cannot imagine our life, and the number of wires entangling our homes is increasing. Consider how to properly place sockets and switches so that they are comfortable to use.

Outlet placement planning

Installation or relocation of sockets and switches implies, at a minimum, cosmetic repairs in the room. If you order an interior design project, then the application must indicate the number and location of sockets and switches. Pay attention to this point: the designer may not take into account, for example, that you like to work on a laptop while sitting on the sofa in the living room. All changes and suggestions are made before the approval of the project.

If you plan the interior and make repairs on your own, then focus on the functions and design of the room, consider where you will place the furniture. Only after developing the interior, proceed to the calculation of the number of outlets. If a wardrobe or wardrobe is planned along the wall, then it makes no sense to mount sockets on it.

The nuances of the placement of switches

The main lighting switch is placed near the door at a height of 75 - 90 cm. When choosing a height, consider the average height of adult family members - it should be convenient for everyone to press the key by moving their lowered hand to the side. Height 80 cm - optimal for almost everyone. The switch should not be covered by furniture or an open door - it is placed on the side where the handle of a closed door is located.

Switches for the bathroom, toilet and pantry are located in the corridor, and in the living rooms, kitchen and corridor - inside the premises.

Additional lighting switches (decorative or comfort lighting) can be placed on any wall, focusing on the design of the room.

Features placement of sockets

The height of the outlets is the cause of many disputes. Do not believe the "European standard" - 15 cm from the floor, but consider only the number of devices. For greater convenience, consider each room in the house.

The corridor. For the corridor, one socket in the corner above the plinth, at a height of 15-20 cm from the floor, will be enough. Here you can connect an electric shoe dryer or charge a guest's phone.

Bathroom. 1-2 sockets will be enough. One is near the mirror for a hair dryer and an electric shaver at a height of 100 cm. If the washing machine is in the bathroom, the socket for it is placed at a height of 50-60 cm from the floor. In the bathroom, it is better to use sockets with special protection against moisture.

Living room. For a TV or home theater, two outlets are enough: one for the receiver, the second for a subwoofer or external TV tuner. Choose the placement height based on the location of the TV: the cord should not hang down or reach for the outlet, but completely hide behind the screen. At a height of 15-30 cm from the floor, place two sockets on each wall: for a floor lamp, an air humidifier, chargers, game consoles, a vacuum cleaner.

Kitchen. The kitchen uses the largest number of appliances: extractor hood, dishwasher and washing machines, electric stove, small appliances (mixer, blender, microwave, food processor, etc.), refrigerator, freezer. The list grows every year.

For the refrigerator, the socket is placed on the wall behind it at a height of 60-80 cm. For the hood, the socket is mounted at a height of 180-200 cm from the floor. For dishwashers and washing machines, electrical outlets are placed at a height of 20-30 cm from the floor - holes are cut to size for them in the back wall of kitchen furniture. Above the level of the working surface (5-10 cm), place three sockets for small appliances. The TV in the kitchen is placed on the wall bracket. The optimal height of the outlet is 180-200 cm.

Bedroom. There will be enough two sockets on both sides of the bed: for bedside lamps and additional appliances. Near the dressing table, one outlet at a height of 60-70 cm from the floor for a hair dryer will suffice.

Study. The computer will require a minimum of five outlets (system unit, monitor, subwoofer speaker system and one for a desk lamp, printer or scanner). Near the shelves with books, they usually equip a place for reading: a floor lamp and a comfortable chair are another outlet. Two additional sockets are mounted on a free wall. All sockets are placed at a height of 15-30 cm from the floor.

Children's. A children's room usually combines a bedroom and a play area. Near the bed you will need a socket for a night light and two sockets for additional appliances. For this room, choose sockets with special protection "from children", or rather, from children's curiosity. The holes for the plugs are protected by special valves and it takes effort to plug the appliance into such a socket.

Air conditioner. The socket for the air conditioner is placed at a distance of 30cm from the ceiling.

How to place sockets and switches you decide only taking into account comfort and safety. Now there are no strict standards for the placement of switches and sockets, and for their number in any particular room.

Count the number of appliances that you will use in each room at all times and add two more sockets for additional appliances. The main requirements are put forward only to the masters who will carry out the installation of the electrical network in the house: they must be specialists.

The location of power points, the height of the installation of sockets and switches is a serious issue that requires planning, drawing up diagrams, counting their number for each room.

If you approach the installation with preliminary planning, then you will not have to unwind the extension cable, stumble over the carrier and plug everything in there, thereby overloading the outlet or even the network.

Our material will help you determine the optimal number of electrical fittings and the rules for its location. We will also talk about all the intricacies of placing and installing electrical outlets in an apartment or house.

It is estimated that each person uses about six different electrical appliances per day. And the number is constantly growing. There are new devices and gadgets, without which one can hardly imagine life.

Appliances fill our homes, and the number of sockets remains unchanged. Cases when a person in a panic runs around the house or office, in search of a free connector for charging a smartphone, occur more and more often. And what is the result? You have to turn off the printer or something else.

Avoiding such situations is not difficult, you just need to know how to properly position the connectors. Then using them will be as comfortable as possible.

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We must not forget that products can be subject to even greater danger. Since the bathroom is at risk of flooding, fixing products below 150 mm from the floor is completely unsafe. If water gets into the outlet, the threat to life is simply colossal.

The reasons for this can be various situations, from a leaky faucet or pipe, to a breakdown of household appliances or the forgetfulness of the owners.

#3. The specifics of the installation in the living room

Home theater or simple, but preferably two. The first for the TV receiver itself, and the second for the satellite receiver. The height level should be determined based on the location of the TV itself. It can stand on a pedestal, be built into a wall or fit into a special cell of a furniture wall.

The power cable must not hang down or be under tension. It should be completely hidden behind the screen.

#four. Rules for the location in the kitchen

Every year, more and more smart technology is being developed to ensure the comfort and time costs of a person. Naturally, the amount of equipment, and therefore in some places, simply rolls over. It is mandatory to provide for the connection of the hood, possibly washing and dishwashers, electric stoves.

But the main thing is a refrigerator, a microwave oven or a slow cooker, sometimes both. Mixer, juicer, food processor, toaster, blender, coffee maker and TV - the list is probably endless.

It is impossible to imagine a room without sockets. Especially if it is a kitchen where a large number of household appliances that need power are used. How to arrange sockets and switches correctly in a limited area and how many will be needed - a number of recommendations.

It is necessary to plan the location of outlets in the kitchen not when the repair is completed and the arrangement of furniture and the connection of the stove and refrigerator begin. Ideally, it is necessary to choose a place for sockets even at the stage of planning a kitchen renovation. The design of the room and the overall interior design is closely related to the question of where to place the outlets, as they should be where the appliances will be. And it is necessary to ditch the walls for wiring, conduct wiring and install sockets before finishing the room, and not after the wallpaper and tiles are pasted.

Therefore, before work, it is necessary to make a plan, where to mark the installation locations of sockets, switches, where furniture and appliances will stand.

First of all, you have to determine where to put:

• fridge;
• dishwasher;
• stove;
• hood;
• microwave oven;
• small household appliances such as a kettle, multicooker, bread machine and so on;
• television.

Important: do not forget that you will need an outlet to connect various appliances that are not related to kitchen appliances - a vacuum cleaner for cleaning, chargers, a laptop. It is most convenient to make such an outlet in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe recreation area.

Based on this, the number of required outlets and their location is determined.

Optimal number

Before the wiring is done, you need to decide how many outlets you need in the kitchen before installing them. There is even a calculation formula for this. Of course, the calculation will be conditional, but it will take into account the needs of the household and how many switches and sockets are needed quite accurately.

So, the optimal number of sockets that are supposed to be installed should exceed the number of electrical appliances for permanent use in the kitchen by 25%. The excess of the installation is laid just so that there is where to turn on rarely used equipment - an electric meat grinder, mixer or blender. And at the same time, it did not take anything to turn off or pull extension cords.

Required electrical appliances, if any, include:

• fridge;
• electric or gas stove with electric ignition;
• television;
• Dishwasher;
• hood;
• microwave.

In some cases, they can also include an electric kettle or other small appliances that are used daily in this house. Based on how many switches and sockets you need, then a project is made for the electrical circuit in the kitchen.

Types of sockets

It is necessary not only to establish how many switches and sockets you need, but also to choose the right sockets that are more suitable for the kitchen. The kitchen is characterized by high humidity and temperature changes. Therefore, sockets are installed here that have a certain degree of moisture protection, ensuring the safety of work. These devices include devices that have a seal and covers and are classified as IP 44. Such European standard sockets are installed next to the stove, sink, work area - in a word, where there is a high risk of splashing.

In other places of the kitchen, it is quite possible to install the most ordinary sockets. If there are children in the house, then they should be equipped with child protection - plastic curtains. European standard sockets are equipped with this option.

If we talk about ease of installation, then here the priority is for retractable and built-in sockets. Thanks to the swivel mechanism, the built-in sockets can be hidden or opened for use. Eurostandard retractable sockets can be installed on any surface, even vertical ones. They can be selected for installation on difficult surfaces.

Wiring rules

There should be enough lines so that they provide power to the devices twice the size after installing all the sockets and switches. At the same time, the most powerful devices must be powered from their own line and have protective automation. Such appliances include a refrigerator, an electric stove.

All metal cased instruments must be grounded as recommended by the wiring standard. You can do this yourself or entrust a specialist. You have to connect with the machine.

Be sure to select wires with copper conductors for wiring. Aluminum core can quickly fail in the kitchen.

All sockets can be grouped. Each group of outlets must have its own machine. This will provide additional security.

Where and at what height to install sockets

Of course, next to the electrical appliances for which they were designed, the diagram should contain detailed information about this. Without fail, one socket must be installed above the refrigerator, behind the refrigerator or next to it; one - next to the stove; one is next to the dishwasher. However, sockets and switches should not be behind the stove or in close proximity to the sink. One outlet should be next to the TV stand.

You also need to install at least one outlet above the work surface of the countertop. And better - 2-3. The height of the socket above the table is set 10 cm from the edge of the table.

In the presence of built-in appliances, sockets are installed side by side at a height of 10 cm from the floor. The outlet for the hood is installed above it. You can not place sockets behind the built-in appliances. The European standard involves the installation of sockets and switches at the bottom.

For the convenience of using the kitchen, you can choose dual sockets and switches next to the table, below.

Wiring is a necessary step in installing sockets, but before that you need to decide at what height the switches will be.

The installation height depends primarily on the habits of the hostess and personal taste. Some people prefer when the sockets are at the bottom, others find it inconvenient. Choose the height and type of outlet based on the convenience of everyone in the house.

Where sockets should not be placed:

• for built-in appliances and furniture;
• in cabinets and cabinets;
• over the sink.

This is the generally accepted standard for electrical work.

Location of outlets in the kitchen (video)

Conclusion

You can do the wiring with your own hands - it's not difficult, provided you know the basics of electrics. If there is little knowledge, then it is best to entrust these works to professionals - electricians who know the standard of work. Then you can be sure that there will be no ignition of the wiring and fire.