Knife cant dimensions. Correct sharpening. Knife for wood: description and varieties of the tool. Manufacturing features. Proper sharpening Homemade knife jamb for woodcarving
Sculptural composition, work of Novoselov A.V.
To perform all types of carving, various elements of home decoration, furniture, souvenirs and other crafts, you need a special tool.
The carving tool can be distinguished as the main (cutting) and auxiliary (for drilling and sawing, carpentry, marking). Also widely used are various electrified household tools and appliances based on an electric motor, which the master can make himself.
All tools must be of excellent quality so that you can easily perform carving work of any complexity.
The cutting tool should be made of good steel, light and comfortable, perfectly sharpened so that the wood is cut like butter, it should be kept in perfect condition.
A blunt tool crumbles, crumples, and does not cut wood, and the cuts and the carving itself look rough and careless. This spoils the mood and often discourages the desire to finish the work. It is easy and pleasant to work with a sharp tool, the drawing is clean, precise, beautiful. By the finished product, you can always determine not only the skill and handwriting of the master, but also what and how he did the work.
Cutting tool
Bogorodsky knife, used for sculptural carving, takes its name from Bogorodsk sculptural carving.
Bogorodsky knife
joint knife(chamfer sharpening angle 20°, bevel angle 35 0; 45°; 60°), used for flat, flat-relief, embossed, openwork threads.
joint knife
knife cutter- used as an auxiliary tool for various types of threads.
knife cutter
Chisels straight(sharpening angle 18-20°); are used as an auxiliary tool for various types of threads.
Straight chisel
Chisels semicircular- the main tool used to perform all types of woodcarving. There are: - sloping (R˃H), medium (R=H), steep (R˂H).
Chisels semi-round
Sameski - Cranberries these are chisels with a curved blade that allows, when carving, not to touch the processed plane with the handle. There is a cranberry-flat chisel, a cranberry-corner. cranberry - a semicircular chisel.
Cranberry chisels
Ceraziki chisels resemble steep semicircular chisels. The width of their canvas is 2 ... 3 mm. Designed for cutting thin veins, the sections of which correspond to the profile of the tool.
Cerazik chisel
Chisels - corners or geismus.(angle between cutting edges 50-70°). Used to select a V-shaped groove, used to make contour thread elements.
Corner chisel or geismus
Stichel. Stichels always have a bend angle of 15 degrees. Their handles are most often in the form of a fungus.Used to sample various veins in the manufacture of engravings.
Stichel
Klepiki. Rivets come in a variety of sizes, but they have only three forms of sharpening: a sword, a leaf, and a nail. The first two are called so: rivet-sword and rivet-leaf.
They are used in flat-relief and three-dimensional carving for cleaning the background in hard-to-reach places.
Klepik-sword, Klepik-leaf
Chisel-nail. Marigolds differ from ordinary rivets in the form of sharpening. She looks like a fingernail. The purpose of nails is cleaning in hard-to-reach places and making stapled thread elements.
nail chisel
Spooners(spoon knives). The best spoon holder is a sharpened ring with a bar welded to it. Spooners are needed to remove a large amount of material in the recesses and to process the inner walls in the manufacture of dishes.
Spooners
Punches and stamps- these are steel rods with a pattern at the working ends. They are most often used for chasing the background in flat-relief and relief carving.
The cutting tool is made of tool steels:
1-Carbon (U10; U12; U10A; U12A), when sharpened, they are determined by a white beam of sparks with separate stars.
2-alloyed (XB5; X12; Ch12M), when sharpened, they give yellow or orange sparks.
3-High-speed steels (P18; P9), when sharpened, they give dark red sparks.
Tool sharpening and dressing
Proper sharpening of the tool is of great importance for high-quality wood carving.
Tool sharpening consists of two stages:
1- chamfering;
2- edits.
1. Chamfering. The chamfer can be removed on an electric grinder (see fig.), a grinder with a manual drive or manually on an abrasive block.
An electric sharpener for sharpening and straightening tools: a - a mechanized double-sided sharpener with devices for sharpening, straightening and polishing tools: 1 - movable stop; 2 - felt circle; 3 - protective screen; 4 - abrasive wheel; 5 - engine; b - movable stop device;: 1 - horizontal movement lock; 2 - movable platform for choosing the angle of sharpening; 3 - bolt - vertical movement lock; c - a device for straightening and polishing a tool (diagram): 1 - electric motor; 2 - belt drive; 3 - felt circles; 4 - wooden circles for corners; 5 rubber wheels with abrasive; 6 - bearings; 7 - metal frame; 8 - movable stop; 9 - shaft.
The location and movement of the tool during sharpening is shown in the figures.
Chamfering: a - on straight chisels; b - on semicircular and sloping chisels: 1 - external chamfer; 2 - internal chamfer; in - on chisels-corners: 1 - internal chamfer; 2 - external chamfer.
The position of the chisel during sharpening: 1 - straight chisel; 2 - semicircular and sloping; 3 - chisel - corner;
When sharpening it is necessary:
Maintain the specified angle of sharpening;
To maintain the shape of the blade, the chamfer should be even without traces of curling;
Blueing of the instrument is not allowed (prevent by periodic wetting of the instrument in water).
2. Edit. Under the editing of the tool is understood to increase the purity of sharpening the blade, deburring, improving sharpening. To edit the tool, microcorundum whetstones (Fig.), skins, and leather are used.
Sharpening a joint: a - sharpening parameters: 1 -
chamfer; 2 - sock; 3 - blade; 4 - heel;
b - the position of the hands at work;
For semicircular incisors, a dressing board is made of linden, cuts on its surface are transverse grooves for incisors of different sizes (Fig.).
Dressing boards and belts
1 - board with a set of profile bars and whetstones;
2 - dressing board with chisel profiles;
3 - leather or canvas belt for straightening.
Before editing, GOI paste is rubbed into the dressing board. The inner surface of the semicircular incisors is ruled by round wooden twigs wrapped in fine sandpaper or leather rubbed with GOI paste. You can edit the instrument on a rotating felt wheel rubbed with GOI paste.
A properly sharpened tool must have a specified sharpening angle, blade shape, and no burrs.
When cutting across the grain of a pine or spruce board, the cutter should leave a clean cut without breaking the grain.
Literature:
1. Burikov V.G., Vlasov V.N.
House carving-M.: Niva Rossi together with the Eurasian Region Company, 1993-352 p.
2. Vetoshkin Yu.I., Startsev V.M., Zadimidko V.T.
Wooden arts: textbook. allowance. Yekaterinburg: Ural. state forest engineering un-t. 2012.
This article will be very useful for those who are interested in woodcarving to some extent or just want to start working with woodworking. As you know, not only skills play a big role in obtaining the desired result, but also what you work with, in this case a tool. You can’t achieve results without a good tool, so in this article I will tell you how the author made a do-it-yourself joint knife. Why do it yourself, it’s all because the quality of the tool is an important factor, which currently costs a lot of money, and even more so if you have all the necessary materials, this knife can be made in a matter of minutes no worse than a factory one. As with all homemade products, before creating it, you need to decide on the necessary materials and tools.
To make a homemade knife-jamb you need:
* A piece of wood, in this case, a leg from an unnecessary chair for the handle of a future knife
* Metal cutter for the cutting part
* Sheet of paper or cardboard to create a template
* Epoxy resin
Of the tools you will need:
* Hacksaw
* A pair of chisels with a straight and semicircular profile
* angle grinder or as they say Bulgarian
* Vise for clamping
* Electric drill
After all the materials and tools are available, you can start manufacturing.
Step one.
First of all, as in many other homemade products and inventions, it is necessary to make a template according to which the original part will be made. The advantage of templates is that they can be reused many times, and with their exact application, you can get completely identical parts. It will be easier to make a template from a pliable material, such as cardboard. The shape of the future handle and the main part of the knife, also referred to as the cutting one, is cut out of cardboard based on your preferences. The option that the author made is shown in the photo. The idea is good, so if you don't want to spend time thinking about the template, you can do something similar. The shape of the cutting part was adopted in the form of a scythe, so that grooves and notches could be cut with its tip.
Step two.
Having the templates on hand, we proceed to cutting out future details on them, namely the handle and the knife blade itself. We apply templates to a wooden blank and metal, and then cut it out.
We cut out the wooden part with a hacksaw, but with a metal one you will have to tinker a little.
We will make the cutting part from an already unnecessary cutter, which must be clamped and then cut the part according to the template using a grinder. When working with a grinder, be careful and do not forget to wear glasses.
The wooden handle requires processing, so it needs to be sanded and we process the wood. The shape of the handle should fit your hand, and on its surface have smooth curves for your fingers, which will be very convenient when using. When the shape of the handle has reached the desired result, it is time to start finishing grinding, with the help of which the handle will have sufficient smoothness and streamlining of the shape.
Step three.
Now all the parts need to be connected, but for this you need to make a hole in the handle. This can be done with an electric drill, the hole should be slightly larger than the size of the fixed part of the knife.
Step four.
It's time to assemble the knife, namely to attach the cutting part of the knife and the handle. This is done quite easily and simply, we insert the cutting part into the previously made hole on the handle and fix both parts with epoxy resin. After this procedure, the knife must be left to lie down in a warm place for a day, which will allow the epoxy to completely harden.
Step five.
The last final step will be to cover the surface of the handle with a protective layer, namely varnish, you can also impregnate the handle with a layer of oil, which will be absorbed into the pores of the wood and prevent it from spoiling.
Every specialist knows perfectly well how important it is to have a good and reliable tool at hand. Unfortunately, it happens that he is not there at the right moment. This is where the search for either a finished tool or numerous other options begins.
So it happened with me. Once in a carefree childhood, I made attempts to learn. For these purposes, I even purchased a set of cutters (manufacturer - "Zaporozhye Tool Plant named after Voykov"). Much of it has been lost by now, but the semicircular chisels have been preserved. Unfortunately, my attempts to master carving in those days were not successful - there was no one to show the basic techniques of working with the tool. As a result - a lot of scars on the left hand and repulsed - almost literally - the desire to improve in this direction.
This fall, I had a desire to catch up. Fortunately, there was time - I had to stop my impromptu in the garage and patiently wait for spring. But now I decided to start by making the right tools, and first of all, wood carving knives. One of the incentives was their absence in local stores.
My knives (jambs and cutters) had to meet the following requirements:
high-quality steel from which they will be made;
ergonomic (comfortable) handles;
relative ease of manufacture;
reliability.
In addition, I planned to take for the knives those materials that were available.
Materials and tools for making knives
As a starting material for the manufacture of blades, I used pieces. I used to make kitchen knives out of them - they keep sharpening well.For the handles, I used trimmings of oak boards left over from other works. Oak is a durable, beautiful and technologically advanced material.
For work, I needed an electric sharpener, a belt grinder (sandpaper grit - 40), a regular hacksaw, sandpaper (grit 80, and for finishing - 240, 800 and 1000), a respirator (gauze mask) - for respiratory protection.
All parts were glued with Titebond II wood glue.
Blade making
From pieces of a saw blade about 8 cm long, I turned metal blanks of blades of the desired shape. At the blanks, he left shanks about 4.5-5 cm long. Their dimensions provide sufficient strength for attaching the blade to the handle. For a more reliable fixation (so as not to loosen and fall out of the handle), I made semicircular cutouts on the sides of the shank.The cross section of a knife blade usually has a wedge-shaped narrowing (approximately at an angle of 10-15 °) from the butt to the cutting edge. This is the so-called large chamfer or descent of the blade. The cutting edge itself is formed by a small chamfer (approach) - a steeper narrowing (at an angle of 25-30 °) in the immediate vicinity of the blade.
I do a large bevel on the knives before I glue the shank into the handle. When forming a chamfer, I grind the workpiece from two sides at the right angle. At the same time, I try to grind the metal symmetrically.
The most important thing in this work is not to rush. With intensive turning, the metal heats up, and it is tempered. That is, the metal becomes softer and loses its ability to maintain sharpening. In addition, I cool the workpiece to be turned in water from time to time, preventing it from overheating. To do this, I put a container with cold water next to it and periodically lower the workpiece into it. The final formation of the blade, sharpening and polishing is done on the finished knife.
Making a knife handle
Oak blocks with a section of 12x22 mm and a length of a little more than 12 cm came up for the handle. The bars were selected so that the surfaces to be glued were even. To simplify the work, I chose the socket for the shank in one of the halves of the future handle.The sequence of operations is as follows. The shank was treated with sandpaper along the edges (knocked down burrs). After that, applying the shank to a pre-prepared bar, he circled it with a pencil or pen. Then, with chisels, he chose a nest to a depth equal to the thickness of the workpiece, from time to time assembling the entire structure “dry” in order to check how the blocks fit together. If the depth of the nest is insufficient, the handle will not stick together or stick together poorly, and the handle may break during operation. At the same time, if the nest is too deep, the blade will walk from side to side, which is also fraught with undesirable consequences - cracking of the handle or deformation of the shank. Thus, it is necessary to choose the socket for the shank as accurately as possible. I know this from my own experience - I repeatedly had to split the already made handles of kitchen knives and change them to new ones only because the shanks were not holding tightly!
After the required result was obtained during the “dry” control assembly of all parts (a tight fit of the shank and the absence of gaps between the halves of the handle), you can start gluing. The glue was applied to the surface of the bar and into the nest under the shank - when manually selecting the nest, inaccuracies in depth cannot be avoided, and it is better to fill possible cavities with glue, which will harden when dried and will hold the shank. I also applied a layer of glue to the counterpart of the future handle, but already thinner.
Then he combined the parts (it is necessary to connect the ends of the bars located closer to the blade as accurately as possible) and tighten them with clamps. I tried to pull it as hard as possible, but, as they say, without fanaticism, so as not to split the bars. I removed the squeezed out excess glue with a damp cloth and left the workpiece for about 12 hours until the glue was completely dry.
After that, I checked the fit of the shank in the handle: with one hand I held the handle, and with the other I tried to loosen the blade. If at the same time subtle, quiet creaking sounds were heard, then such a handle is no good, and it needs to be redone. With a quality work done, there should not be any extraneous sounds.
Handle fit
For myself, I have long determined the most suitable forms of handles for cutting tools. For example, on the handles of kitchen knives and carving knives, I usually make a slight bend on the back to support the thumb. There are also common features of the handles of all tools, namely:the back of the handle is wider and more rounded than the one closer to the blade, so all the blanks for the handles at the beginning of processing resemble a truncated elongated pyramid;
The handle has an indentation for the index finger.
When the workpiece is glued, I saw off the back with a hacksaw or a miter saw, based on the required dimensions (in my case, 12 cm).
After that, I turn to turning the edges of the handle with a belt grinder. I work using personal protective equipment - goggles and a respirator, since oak dust can cause allergies.
You should not strive to grind the handle of the tool as accurately as possible on a tape with a grit of 40. It is better to leave small allowances for more precise processing with fine sandpaper by hand. I always cover prepared handles with nitro-lacquer (I like it better).
Blade finishing
Let's return to the issue of cutting edge formation. The sharpening angle of a large chamfer of 10-15 ° is suitable, perhaps for a straight razor, but for a knife on wood (even the softest one) is still small. When processing a wooden workpiece with such a knife, the tip will wrinkle or chip off. Therefore, a small chamfer is needed, the sharpening angle of which is approximately 25-30 ° for my knives.To form a small chamfer, I use sandpaper (but bars can also be used) of different grain sizes according to the principle from larger to smaller. First I take a sandpaper with a grit of 240, then - 800, then - 1000 and finally polish it on a leather belt fixed on a wooden block.
With a good sharpening, the wood should be cut both along and across the grain without much effort. And the cut surface should be smooth and shiny - in this case they say that an “oily” cut is obtained.
I check the quality of sharpening on a board specially used for this purpose. I take the board from soft wood, since it is more difficult to achieve an “oily” cut on such a board than on hardwood blanks.
Naturally, in the process of carving, the knife becomes dull, and it is necessary to restore the cutting edge from time to time. I do it this way: I put a sheet of sandpaper on a flat wooden block and perform a few lapping movements, after which I finish the knife on a belt.
Acting according to the described scheme, I made several knives in the fall. They are quite functional - reliable and comfortable. For a beginner, I think it's good! I plan to use the experience gained to expand the collection of my instrument. I hope that knives will become my faithful assistants when mastering woodcarving.
DIY wood carving knives: robot sequence
1. As a blank for the manufacture of knife blades, I used a band saw blade.
2. Shanks for all blades are approximately the same shape.
To make a triangular-notched thread, you need only one tool - a joint knife (Fig. 1). It is so called because it has a beveled blade.
Rice. 1 Knife
How to make a joint knife
1. Take a plank 10-12 mm thick from any wood, but without knots.
2. Saw with a jigsaw or hacksaw two identical blanks 130 mm long, 32 mm wide.
3. With sandpaper ("skin") wrapped around a small one, process one wide side of each workpiece.
4. After that, on the polished side of one of the blanks, mark the groove for the knife blade (Fig. 2)
Rice. 2 Marking the groove for the knife blade
5. Using a 10 mm wide flat chisel, cut a groove (fig. 3).
Fig.3 Groove cutting technique
6. Insert the blade (possibly an old or broken blade from a hacksaw), the length of which is 6.5-7 cm, insert into the groove, having previously smeared it with PVA glue and the entire surface on which it is located.
7. Lubricate now the polished side of the second workpiece with glue and carefully connect them (Fig. 4 a, b), then place them under the load or clamp them with clamps.
Rice. 4 Joining the knife parts
8. When the glue dries, after about 12 hours, use a sharply sharpened knife to process the handle so that it fits comfortably in your hand. The shape of the handle can be any (Fig. 5). After processing with a knife, sand the handle with a fine-grained “sandpaper”.
Rice. 5 Possible forms of the handle of a joint knife
On fig. 6 is a drawing of an easy-to-make and easy-to-use handle. Practice has shown that a knife with such a handle can be used by a carver with both a small hand and a large one.
Rice. 6 Drawing of a comfortable handle for a knife
The knife must always be sharp, otherwise you will not get any pleasure from carving. Therefore, sharpening pay special attention.
First, it is necessary to grind off the angle of the blade so that it is 60 ° in relation to the cutting plane (Fig. 7). How to do this is shown. Then the cutting surface should be sharpened, which should be 2-3 mm wide. Sharpening is carried out on both sides until a barb appears on the blade.
Rice. 7 How to shape the blade
For grinding, the blade must be placed on the bar with a cutting surface, press and move the knife back and forth until the burr disappears. Both cutting surfaces of the blade are subjected to grinding.
The knife after such processing becomes sharp, but we need the knife-jamb to become like a razor, that is, it must literally shave. That's the only way a carver's knife should be. And for this, you also need to polish the cutting surfaces so that they become ultra-smooth and clean. This is achieved by processing on a felt wheel smeared with GOI polishing paste.
Polishing is carried out using a drill, in which a mandrel with a felt wheel is fixed. The knife during polishing (Fig. 9, b) must be held differently than when sharpening (Fig. 9, a). If you violate the correct technique, you can damage the circle and break the knife.
Rice. 8 How to hold a knife during a - sharpening, b - polishing
Now the knife-jamb is ready to work. Make a case out of Styrofoam and protect the blade with it. After every 2-3 hours of continuous work, polish the cutting surfaces - and the knife will always be sharp. Cutting with such a tool will turn into a pleasure for you.
All photos from the article
Experienced craftsmen can use even the simplest folding knives with a wooden handle to make various decorative crafts. However, a beginner carving should use a specialized tool that will allow you to perform all the basic operations without additional effort.
In our article, we will tell you which knives can be used to process wood, as well as give recommendations for the independent manufacture and sharpening of such tools.
Description and types of tools
Wood carving knives come in a variety of shapes. As a rule, they differ from ordinary knives in a shortened blade. This design feature is explained quite simply: when threading, the tip experiences a fairly strong load, and therefore the shorter the metal part is, the less risk it breaks under pressure.
Depending on the type of construction, several types of cutting knives are distinguished.
| View | Peculiarities |
| Cutter | A versatile knife that is used for both basic shaping and small details. The design usually features an elongated blade with a straight or curved cutting edge. The types of cutters are:
|
| cant | Structurally, a knife - a jamb for wood carving repeats the cutter pattern, however, it is characterized by a larger bevel angle of the blade. Due to this, the jamb can be subjected, which is actively used when carving on flat surfaces. At the same time, the technique of some masters involves the use of a jamb as the main knife due to a sufficiently long cutting edge. |
| Auxiliary tool | When carving, in addition to knives, craftsmen use other cutting tools, such as:
In fact, all of them are not knives, but have a cutting edge. |
In addition, other tools used in mechanical woodworking are sometimes included in the classification.
These include:
- Milling knives for wood - are either whole cutters or removable parts of cutters.
- Planer knives for woodworking machines - used in the machining of elongated parts.
- Planing blades - are used, as the name implies, in planing machines.
However, these and other types of carving parts are used only as auxiliary ones, therefore we will not dwell on their description in detail.
Knife making
Making a blade
When choosing a carving knife, you should give preference to simple and reliable models made of high-quality steel. However, the price of such products is quite high, because beginners often purchase cheaper models, and therefore are inevitably disappointed in the quality of the cutters.
The way out in such a situation can be to make a knife with your own hands. This task is solved quite simply, so that even a beginner in plumbing can quickly acquire their own tool.
First of all, we need to find the right material. This is not difficult, since we need a fairly small piece of good steel.
As a blank for the future knife can be used:
- A strip of good steel is about 8 - 12 cm long, up to 2.5 cm wide and 1.5 - 2.2 mm thick. The brand does not play a special role, as long as the material is strong enough and keeps sharpening well - P6 / P6M5, and P9, and even R3AM3F2 will do.
- Power saw blade made of hardened metal. It is better to choose the same dimensions as in the previous case - this way we will save energy on roughing.
Note! Despite the fact that, compared to a saw, the knife will be subjected to significantly less stress, it is not worth taking rusty blades or parts with cracks (albeit shallow ones) into work.
- Part (it is convenient to use a fragment of a split disc with one or more teeth).
The process itself looks like this:
- First, we make a drawing of a joint knife for wood carving, determining the shape of the shank, the length of the blade and the bevel of the cutting part.
Note! For cutters, the bevel is from 15 to 45 0, for jambs - up to 60 -70 0.
- Next, we cut the workpiece to the desired size, making the blade from 30 to 90 mm long and leaving a shank sufficient to secure it in the handle.
- We form the blade by cutting the front edge of the workpiece at the desired angle.
- We carry out rough sharpening, making a cutting edge.
- Several holes can be drilled in the shank, which will be used for fixing in the handle.
After that, we wrap the cutting part with electrical tape so as not to cut ourselves when performing further operations, and proceed to the manufacture of the handle.
Making a handle
We make the handle of the knife from linden, birch or similar wood.
The main thing is that the material absorbs moisture well - then the knife will not slip out of a hand that is sweaty from exertion.
- We take a chock with a diameter of about 40 mm and a length of 200-250 mm.
- We cut out the handle of the shape we need from the workpiece, thinning the rear edge of the part.
Note! We can limit ourselves to roughing, because then we will still “finish” the surface of the tree.
- Carefully split the workpiece along the fibers.
- On one of the formed planes we apply the shank of the knife, after which we circle it along the contour.
- In the workpiece, we select a recess corresponding to the shape and thickness of the tail plate. At the same time, we make sure that the shank laid in it does not protrude above the plane.
- We remove the workpiece from the wooden plank, after which we apply carpentry glue to all surfaces.
- We install the blade in place, firmly press both parts of the handle, and then clamp all the parts with clamps.
After the glue dries, we perform finishing processing:
- If necessary, we drive rivets into the pre-drilled holes, with which we finally fix the shank in the handle tree.
- We put a metal ring on the front of the handle.
- We carefully grind the wood, removing all irregularities. We pay special attention to the junction of the halves.
Correct sharpening
Now, to get started, we just need to sharpen our knife.
Sharpening instructions are as follows:
- On an abrasive bar with a large grain (pre-wet it with water) at an angle of 15 to 24 0, we install the blade. With movements from ourselves, we form a cutting edge until the sharpness begins to be felt under the finger.
- We pass to the medium abrasive bar and repeat the operations, leaving a sharpened metal chamfer (burr) on the cutting edge.
- On a small (diamond) bar, abundantly moistened with water, we finally remove the burr, forming a blade.
Editing on the belt
Conclusion
If necessary, knives for cutting wood can be made independently - there are no particular difficulties in this even for a beginner. But the result will be that you have a tool that perfectly matches all your requirements.
You can learn more about the features of such devices, as well as the technique of their manufacture, sharpening and use, in the video in this article.
1. Take a tare board (a board from a box) 10-12 mm thick from any wood, but without knots (Fig. 3).
2. Saw with a jigsaw or hacksaw two identical blanks 130 mm long, 32 mm wide (Fig. 4, a).
3. With sandpaper (“skin”) wrapped around a small wooden block, process one wide side of each workpiece. This process is called grinding (Figure 4. b).
4. After that, on the polished side of one of the workpieces, mark a groove (recess) for the knife blade (Fig. 4, b), and then cut it with a flat chisel 10 mm wide (Fig. 5).
Rice. 3
Rice. 5
a-c - sequence of procedures
5. The blade (which will serve as an old or broken blade from a hacksaw - Fig. 6, a), the length of which should be 65-70 mm, insert into the groove, having previously smeared it with PVA glue and the entire surface on which it is located (Fig. 6b).
6. Lubricate now the polished side of the second workpiece with glue and carefully connect them (Fig. 7, a, b), then place them under the load or clamp them with clamps (Fig. 7, c).
7. When the glue dries, and this takes 12 hours, use a sharply sharpened knife to process the handle so that it fits comfortably in your hand. The shape of the handle can be any (Fig. 8). After processing with a knife, sand the handle with a fine-grained "sandpaper".
Rice. 9
a - front view; b - right side view
Figure 9 shows a drawing of an easy-to-make and easy-to-use handle. Practice has shown that a knife with such a handle can be used by a carver with both a small hand and a large one.
Now let's talk about sharpening. Your knife must always be sharp, otherwise you will not get any pleasure from carving. Therefore, sharpening pay special attention. It is best to ask a specialist for this, but only if you do not have an electric drill at home.
The fact is that with the help of an electric drill you can not only drill holes, but also saw, grind, sharpen, mill, the drill is universal. A special clamp is sold for it, which allows it to be attached to the table. It resembles a clamp. Drills and other cutting tools are fixed in the chuck. The abrasive wheel is purchased at the store along with the mandrel. This circle is the sharp one. After inserting it into the cartridge and securing it, turn on the drill and start sharpening your knife.
First, you need to grind off the angle of the blade so that it is 6 ° in relation to the cutting plane (Fig. 10). How to do this is shown in Fig. 11. Then the cutting surface should be sharpened, which should be 2-3 mm wide (Fig. 12). Sharpening is carried out on both sides until a barb appears on the blade.
Now on a fine-grained bar, grind. Be sure to moisten the bar with water. This is done so that the grains of the bar under the pressure of the knife turn into a kind of grinding paste, which will remove the thinnest layer of metal.
For grinding, the blade must be placed on the bar with a cutting surface (Fig. 13), press and move the knife back and forth until the burr disappears. Both cutting surfaces of the blade are subjected to grinding.
The knife after such processing becomes sharp, but we need the knife-jamb to be like a razor, that is, it must literally shave. That's the only way a carver's knife should be. And for this, you also need to polish the cutting surfaces so that they become ultra-smooth and clean. This is achieved by processing on a felt wheel smeared with GOI polishing paste. The paste is a solid green bar. It was invented for polishing optical glasses at the State Optical Institute (abbreviated as GOI), from which it got its name.
Polishing is again carried out using a drill, into which a mandrel with a felt circle is fixed (all of the mandrels and fasteners listed are included with some drills, so buy a drill that has a complete set).
I draw your attention to the fact that the knife during polishing (Fig. 14, b) must be held differently than when sharpening (Fig. 14, a). If you violate the correct technique, you can damage the circle and break the knife,
Now the knife-jamb is ready to work. Take good care of your instrument. Make a foam cover and protect the blade with it (fig. 15). After every 2-3 hours of continuous work, polish the cutting surfaces - and the knife will always be sharp. Cutting with such a tool will turn into a pleasure for you.
- Wood carving technique
- Let's make it ourselves
- Blade
- Lever
- sharpening
Wood carving knives are a must-have accessory in the arsenal of a craftsman who makes decorative items from natural wood.
Such tools can be of various types and shapes, which directly affects the specifics of processing individual parts. The most famous cutter, which is very popular among our craftsmen, is the Bogorodsk knife.
Wood carving technique
Woodcarving is a complex but very interesting technique for decorating products, known since ancient times. The beginning of work, as a rule, consists in creating a blank, or, more simply, a deck or blank. Next, a rough surface treatment is performed, during which it is leveled and all kinds of defects are eliminated. Then comes the turn of artistic work, which the master carries out with the help of cutters for woodcarving. Technically, such a process looks like a sample of a piece of wood, which allows you to give the workpiece a relief and volume. This stage can be called the main one, because it depends on it what the final look of the product will be. The finishing of a decorative object consists in grinding the wood and impregnating it with antiseptics and paints and varnishes.
For manual work of this type, cutting devices with different blade configurations can be used. The purity of the ornament on wood depends on their quality no less than on the skill of the carpenter, so it is necessary to ensure that the blade of the chisel is strong, sharp and has no nicks. If experienced craftsmen can blindly determine the type and quality of carpentry knives, then choosing wood cutters for beginners can be a daunting task. For those who are not yet fully familiar with the features of the choice and manufacture of incisors, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with their main varieties and methods of application in more detail. You can also learn how to make wood cutters yourself by setting them to the required size and shape.
Kinds
It is believed that virtuoso masters can get by with one or two cutters, however, as practice shows, a good set of special carpentry tools, which includes chisels with blades of various shapes, will help to achieve the best result and facilitate work. Experts in this industry recommend replenishing your arsenal with the following positions:
Along with devices for cutting openwork elements, there are additional items that no carpenter can do without. These tools include hacksaws, jigsaws, drills, wood saws can be designed for rough or finishing work (saber, bow).
Those craftsmen who work with large-sized structures acquire not only hacksaw tools, but also include hatchet cutters, or, as they are also called, curly adzes in their arsenal. Their principle of operation is similar to that of smaller cutting tools, with the difference only in the scale and purity of the process. Beginners who are just starting to comprehend the craft do not understand the varieties of the instrument as thoroughly as experienced craftsmen, so the main thing here is to follow the golden rule - quality is above all. Since buying good knives can be expensive, many people make cutters on their own, especially since today it is easy to find suitable video and photo tutorials on the Internet. Next, we will tell you how to make knives for curly carving with your own hands from improvised materials.
Let's make it ourselves
Let's make a reservation right away that the high price does not always force the carpenter to take drastic measures. Often a good experienced master cannot choose for himself such a tool that would meet his requirements, and this also becomes a reason for independent work on the cutter. In principle, this problem is solved quite successfully, the main thing is to know what to make cutters from and what technology to apply in this case.
Blade
In most cases, an ordinary canvas for wood or metal is suitable as a raw material for self-harvesting. From such a material you can get an excellent jamb knife - just break it off manually or cut off a segment of the blade on a lathe, and then form a cutting edge. Worthy characteristics suitable for our product also have a saw blade for wood, because it is very important what steel the jamb knife is made of, and here we are dealing with carbon metal, which is easy to sharpen and remains sharp for a long time even when working with hard rocks tree.
If your future homemade cutter will be designed for sampling wood, it should have a semicircular blade shape, and in this case it is better to make it from a punch, which can be found in almost every home workshop. In private carpentry workshops, you can find homemade bearing cutters, which have also proven themselves well in work.
Lever
When the cutting part of the chisel is ready, you can begin to manufacture an equally important part of the tool - the handle. Here we need a wooden block, and it is better if it is hardwood, from which we will need to cut a holder with a hole in the end. Please note that the shape of the hole must correspond to the same parameter of the metal shank of a woodcarving knife, made from canvas or a disk with your own hands.
In the event that a two-piece handle is used to make a wood cutter, it is recommended that the blade be additionally fixed with fasteners, and the gluing process should be carried out using a vice or clamps.
sharpening
A carver will be able to achieve a worthy result in an artistic craft only if the tool made is sharp. When carving wood, knives tend to become dull, so a properly sharpened joint can work for a long time without re-processing.
One of the most relevant topics for any carver is where to get a good woodworking tool? High-quality well-sharpened wood cutters can help out even an inexperienced craftsman. The cuts are smooth, clean, and working with such a tool is much easier! After trying different options for the source material for making tools for woodworking, from scalpels to razors, I settled on metal cutters.
They are quite fragile and strong at the same time. Carbon steel allows you to keep the edge of the blade sharp for a long time, it does not dull even on hard woods.
So, first we cut the cutter on the metal cutter according to the pre-applied drawing of the future cutter:
In our case, this is a small knife-cutter, which is the main tool of the cutter:
The presence of such an abundance of sparks during cutting indicates that the steel is good, carbonaceous, which means it is suitable for wood carving:
It turns out such a blank:
It is desirable that the part that will be in the handle is larger than the blade. This is for strength.
We grind the knife blade, constantly dipping it in cold water so that it does not overheat:
Now you need to make a handle for the knife. To do this, we take slats made of durable wood. In one part we draw the outline of the knife, the other as an overlay:
We cut a recess in the tree in the shape of a knife so that it drowns flush, coat both parts with PVA glue:
We glue the knife in a vice. It takes 12 hours to glue:
After gluing, we grind the handle, and bring the knife on the grinder to the desired sharpness.
According to this principle, you can make a knife with your own hands.
By the way, excellent wood chisels are obtained from metal drills:
And semicircular chisels from punches:
Knife - jamb can be made from a rapid saw:
Here are more wood cutters that I made with my own hands from a metal cutter:
The main tools of any woodcarver are shovel knives:
They are needed in different sizes and with different angles of inclination.
For wood cutting knives, all zones (blade, toe and heel) are used. The main requirements for knives: 1) they must be well fitted to the hand of the master, 2) they must be made of good carbon steel with good sharpening. Knife-jamb for woodcarving can be made by hand ()
In addition to jambs for figured woodcarving, they are also used auxiliary knives:
They come in different sizes and shapes, some of them are needed for rough cutting, others for cutting through small details.
For geometric woodcarving, various chisels. They are semicircular with varying degrees of convexity.
Also with straight cut.
And triangular section
Semicircular chisels are sometimes made with a cutting edge beveled at an angle of 45 degrees.
Cutters are often used cranberries. These are the same semicircular chisels with a blade bent near the cutting end.
