Insulation of non-residential attic of a private house. You spend a lot on heating, insulate the attic with mineral wool Proper insulation of the attic

Thermal insulation of a residential building will always be the main task solving the problem of heating. After all, you must agree that not the house that is heated will be a warm house, but the one that retains this heat. No matter how good the heating is, without thermal insulation, efforts will be in vain. And in order to reduce heating costs and make the house really warm, you need to think about saving heat.

Insulating their home, many begin to finish the attic. Is it necessary? Yes, because it is through the ceiling that a lot of heat escapes. And if you take care of its insulation, then the ceiling will not let heat out. Everyone knows from physics lessons that warm air goes up to the ceiling. And if it passes heat, then such air will simply go outside. Thanks to this article, you will learn which attic insulation to choose in order to reduce heat loss.

What is attic insulation

What is attic insulation work? The technology is quite simple: the insulation material can be laid on the floor, in the space between the floor beams and additionally between the roof rafters. If we talk about the insulation of the room, which is located at the bottom of the attic, then it is enough to insulate the floor. In the event that you want to store something in the attic or use it as an attic from time to time, the roof is also insulated.

What materials can be laid in the attic for insulation? In this article, we'll take a look at the different options and their pros and cons. Immediately, we note that there are several types of heaters:

Slab.
Roll.
Sprayable.
Bulk.

Each of the insulation options is good in its own way. We will select the best heaters that are suitable for this purpose. You must understand that the choice is yours. Our site will offer you only a list of proven attic insulation materials that have won a lot of positive feedback. So, we will consider the following options:

classic - mineral wool;
irreplaceable foam;
expensive, but very high-quality PPU;
simple and cheap bulk materials such as expanded clay, sawdust or slag.

What are they? What is the laying technology of each insulation and its advantages? Let's find out further.

Warming with mineral wool

Perhaps only a grandmother in the village has not heard of mineral wool, and that is not a fact. This is the most common insulation for home insulation, which is used both for self-insulation and by professional teams. I would especially like to note basalt wool, which does not burn at all and has excellent characteristics. Why did you love mineral wool so much? Let's look at its positive aspects.

Ecological purity.
The property keeps its shape well.
Light weight, which does not load the structure.
Low thermal conductivity.
It is not spoiled by rodents.
She doesn't burn.
Soundproofing.
It has a "breathing effect", creating a good microclimate.
Relatively low cost.
Easy to work with insulating material.

Why is this attic insulation so good? Mineral wool is sold both in slabs and in rolls. It keeps its shape well, and you can easily insulate the floor of the attic, as well as the roof. It is enough to lay mineral wool in the space between the beams and sheathe everything with hydro and vapor barrier. This is very important, since the main disadvantage of the material is that it is afraid of moisture. It will destroy the insulation, which will eventually lose its original properties.

You can see the technology of laying mineral wool from the video.

Foam insulation

Well, if a grandmother from the village could not hear about mineral wool, then the foam plastic is definitely familiar to her. One of the simple and affordable insulation materials, which is widely used by builders. The main advantage of polystyrene is its low cost along with good performance. It is much denser than cotton wool, so it is easier to work with foam. It works great and fits in the right place. What else can be noted?

Low thermal conductivity (lower than mineral wool).
Small cost.
Affordable price.
Soundproofing.
Immune to moisture.
Ease of installation.
Holds its shape well.

However, the low cost affects other aspects. There are more disadvantages to polystyrene. For example, it burns very well. One spark is enough and the material will immediately begin to melt. In addition, it is not vapor-permeable, you will not get a breathing effect for walls. And if it is not properly protected, then the rodents will pretty sharpen the material.

Nevertheless, polystyrene is and will be one of the popular heaters. Fires are an infrequent phenomenon, in the attic the breathing effect is not so important, and if you protect the material, then rodents are not terrible. For the price this is a great option.

PPU insulation

One of the most expensive options for insulation, due to the complexity of the process. PPU is a representative of sprayed materials such as penoizol. The insulation technology, at first glance, is simple: it is enough to spray the composition from the unit onto the surface, it will increase several times and fill all the cracks. On the one hand, this is true, but the catch is that such equipment is not easy to find. And it's not even the availability of units, but the ability to use them. Such work is entrusted only to experienced specialists who have access to the equipment.

The components that make up polyurethane foam are mixed in the unit in an ideal ratio, and the finished composition is sprayed onto the surface, which increases in size. Why is this expensive method so good?

Ecological purity of the material.
Light weight.
The lowest thermal conductivity.
A monolithic structure is created without seams, which can become cold bridges.
Immune to moisture.
Adhesion to almost any surface.
biostability.
Soundproofing.
It is not eaten by rodents.
The quality of insulation is top notch.

As you can see, there are really a lot of advantages of insulation. But they are offset by some factors. Firstly, an insulated attic will not breathe. Secondly, you will not be able to do the insulation yourself without specialists. Thirdly, such a pleasure for the attic will be expensive. Is it worth it - you decide.

Warming with bulk materials

This option can be called the simplest and "in haste" without problems. All that is required is to pour the selected insulation of a certain layer. What can be used?

Expanded clay.
Sawdust.
Slag.

Expanded clay

Insulation material is balls that are poured onto the floor. You realized that they will not be able to insulate the walls. It is divided into fractions: expanded clay sand, crushed stone or gravel. What is the feature of the material?

Does not burn.
Environmentally friendly.
Durable.
Frost-resistant.
Has high strength.
Light weight.
Sound and heat insulation.

Insulation material is poured over a layer of roofing material, at least 15 cm thick. It all depends on the attic floor and the properties of thermal insulation. In order for you to be able to walk on the floor surface, you can make a concrete screed from above, the thickness of which is about 5 cm. It remains to arrange the flooring from wood, chipboard or other material.

As for sawdust and slag, the technology is almost identical. The laid material will save heat, but not as good as the options above. However, labor costs are minimal. If you do not want to bother, then this is a good alternative to conventional insulation.

Summing up

As you can see, the variety of materials for attic insulation is really large. Each of them is good in their own way. If you are limited in funds, then you can use foam. And when there are funds, then choose between mineral wool and polyurethane foam. Some combine insulation materials, leveling the shortcomings of the foam. How? The bottom layer is made of thick foam, and a thin layer of mineral wool is laid on top. Simple and fireproof. However, remember, no matter what insulation you choose to cover the attic, stick to the technology of its installation. This is the only way to achieve high-quality attic insulation.

Proper insulation of the attic of a private house will allow you to use this room as a living space. In addition, cold air will not enter the lower tiers through the ceiling, which will significantly reduce energy costs. Next, consider the main canons of this procedure.

Thermal insulation of the attic of a private house with the help of backfill materials is the most ancient method. Since ancient times, sawdust has been used as a heater, contributing to a good preservation of a comfortable temperature in the room. Until now, this technology finds its application, because it is implemented by hand without problems. We will talk about it and other options below.

Backfill insulation is used mainly for floors of interfloor ceilings. Of course, it is possible to use them for thermal insulation of the ceiling, but such a procedure will be difficult, because it will be necessary to build a frame. Therefore, it is better to use this category of materials for their intended purpose.

Before starting the main work, you will need to prepare the surface, namely:

Remove old floors (if any).
Clear everything from debris and dirt.
Create a crate. To do this, you can use bars 4 × 4 in size. They should be placed in increments of no more than 50 cm for the floor, and within 1 m for other parts.

"Grandfather's method" - sawdust

Let's start with the most ancient insulation - sawdust. This material has a lot of disadvantages - low moisture resistance, poor thermal conductivity, etc. However, even today people insulate attics with it. The reason is simple - it's the cheapest (sometimes even free) option. This method can be safely recommended for residents of the southern regions, where there are no frosts. For such a climate, there is no need for high-quality insulation of floors.

Tip: sawdust can be taken for free (or for a symbolic price) at any large sawmill.

Thermal insulation with sawdust is carried out in the following sequence:

We make a thorough revision of the floors for the presence of cracks and cracks. To prevent cold air from entering the main room through the attic, they must be sealed. Previously, clay was used for this, but today you can use more advanced compounds: sealant, cement-sand mortar, etc.

Important! If the gaps between the floors are more than 2 cm, it is required to re-lay the boards.

Then we sprinkle the entire space with slaked lime with carbide. There are several functions of this layer, but one of the main ones is protection from mice. It's no secret that rodents appear in many private houses (especially in attics). However, this composition will effectively scare them away.
Now we fill the niche with sawdust - they must be dry and without debris. The recommended layer thickness is 20 cm.
Then it is necessary to process sawdust so that they cease to be combustible: we spill it with slag mining, or we process it with flame retardants.
We close the logs of the attic with boards or plywood.

Linen

This is another insulation from the old days. However, now you can find improved analogues that have many advantages:

Ecological cleanliness - only natural ingredients are used in its production. Working with your own hands, a person does not risk getting skin irritation (unlike using, for example, glass wool).
High efficiency. Excellent technical characteristics make it possible to make the house as protected from the penetration of cold air as possible.
Easy to use.
Variety of forms - factors. Flax is not only loose, but also in the form of rolls or slabs. This allows you to use it to finish the house from all sides (floor, ceiling, walls).

The process of attic insulation with flax is practically no different from the use of sawdust. The only difference is that the prepared surface must be covered with kraft paper. Such a measure will increase performance and protect against the influence of natural factors (mold, fungus, etc.). If you do not intend to completely insulate the roof, then you will need to close the logs with a vapor barrier layer (for example, a membrane). For fastening, we use liquid nails glue or a construction stapler.

The most effective technique - expanded clay

Above were considered budget options that can be recommended only for residents of warm regions. To reliably protect the attic of a house in areas with a harsh Russian climate, it is necessary to use better and more effective methods. Among backfill materials, expanded clay is the best. This is a porous material that is obtained by firing clay (or its shale). It is lightweight and has an oval shape. Regarding the form of release, fractions are distinguished: 5-10 sand, 10-20 crushed stone, 20-40 gravel.

Important! Expanded clay implies the use of a screed, which promises a significant weighting of the structure. Therefore, this technology can be used only if the floors are strong enough.

Expanded clay is laid as follows:

Align the rough base (if necessary). Height differences of more than 1 cm are not allowed.
We lay the film, of any thickness, the main thing is that there are no holes.
Pour a pillow (no more than 10 mm) of gravel.
We scatter expanded clay over the entire area and level it. It is very important to achieve uniformity. For convenience, you can use a laser level.
To avoid shifts of expanded clay to the side when pouring the mixture, first pour the liquid solution.
If you are going to use the attic as a full-fledged living space in the house, it is necessary to provide additional strength to the screed using a reinforcing mesh. We lay it on a liquid solution.
We install beacons to determine the evenness of the future coverage.
Pour a thick solution and level it with a rule. Our coating will be ready for full operation in 7-10 days. Until this time, it is undesirable to bring any heavy objects into the room.

The described technique is the most effective in its class. However, it is characterized by impressive spending. In addition, a serious load is created on the floors (wooden houses may not withstand it). Therefore, it should be used only if the attic is planned to be used as a living space.

We analyze roll and tile options

This type of material can be used to decorate the house from all sides. However, we will consider the roof (in our case, the ceiling) and walls. Preparation of the rough surface is the same as for the floor. That is, it is necessary to remove old materials, clean and create guides.

For lovers of environmental friendliness - ladders made of algae

This is a unique material, because it is the most environmentally friendly in its segment. Due to the presence of iodine, mice do not start in it. In addition, it is not subject to biological factors (mold, fungus, etc.) and does not rot. In terms of their performance, the ladders are not inferior to their synthetic "brothers" in anything. They are not afraid of water at all, so there is no need to create a moisture protective layer. Installation is carried out in the following sequence:

We evaluate the ceiling and walls (if any) for the presence of cracks and close them up. If they are small, we use sealant or similar materials. In more serious cases, you will have to add corrugated board.
We attach ladders and fix them on large building brackets. Even the smallest cracks should not be allowed to form, otherwise the ceiling will let cold air through.
We close the attic structure with boards or plywood.

The most common material is stone wool

This is a more advanced analogue of mineral wool, with improved technical characteristics. Today it is most often used to protect houses from the cold. The installation method is practically the same as described above. However, there are some nuances:

Cotton wool on both sides must be covered with a vapor barrier film. We fix it to the ceiling with brackets or glue. We fix the closing part on the logs.
If during the preparatory operations you will fill the bars (acting as guides for the ceiling and walls), we recommend that you first purchase a heater and make the distance between them the same as the width of the roll.
Laying must be done joint to joint or even with a slight excess. The malleability of stone wool allows this to be done.

To mount on the ceiling, you will need an assistant who will support the roll.

Modern and high-quality method - foamed polyurethane foam

This is a complex polymer that has excellent technical characteristics. With their own hands, such technology is implemented quite rarely, however, it needs lighting. In this case, a similar mounting foam is poured. The foamed substance sets quite quickly, as a result, a monolithic structure is created.

In addition to high thermal insulation characteristics, polyurethane foam gives high sound absorption, as a result, rain drops on the roof will not be heard.

For application, you will need a special spray installation (it is because of this that few decide to use polyurethane foam with their own hands). However, it can be rented. So, the work is done in the following sequence:

We clean the ceiling and walls from dust and dirt. Otherwise, the sprayed substance will not adhere well.
We cover all wooden elements first with an antiseptic (if possible, then on both sides), and then with a deep penetration primer (only for wood).

Important! When working with a sprayer, do not forget to use a respirator and gloves

After waiting for the complete drying of the protective compounds, we spray the foamed substance with our own hands. We do this slowly from the bottom up.
After waiting for complete drying, we cut off the excess with our own hands (if any) and close the ceiling and walls with any sheet material (plywood, drywall, etc.).

To achieve maximum protection from the cold at home, we recommend combining the methods described above.

High-quality insulation of the ceiling in a house with a cold roof reduces heat costs, reduces heating costs and increases living comfort. Thermal insulation is carried out in different ways, using materials of various composition and form of release. How to choose the best option?

We will talk about which methods are most effective in installing a system that prevents heat leakage through the ceiling. We will tell you what to look for when choosing a heater. In the article we have proposed, you will find valuable recommendations for improving the thermal insulation characteristics of the house.

A cold roof is a budgetary and practical option for organizing the roof of a house for seasonal living. This design significantly saves construction costs, but does not contribute to heat conservation.

It is desirable to solve the issue of thermal insulation of the ceiling zone at the stage of building a house. However, insulation is often resorted to in the operated premises.

The warm air of the heated room rises and, in contact with the cold ceiling, quickly cools. Losses of thermal energy through an uninsulated roof and ceiling reach 25-40%

Thermal insulation of the ceiling solves a number of problems:

Reduces the intensity of cooling of heated air, contributing to savings in home heating costs.
Increases sound insulation in a room by dampening the rumble of wind or heavy rain.
In summer, the insulating material helps to keep the room cool without letting in warm air from outside.

Insulation of the ceiling increases the comfort of a private house and optimizes the microclimate of the room. Subject to the installation technology, thermal insulation eliminates the appearance of condensate on structural elements.

Methods of thermal insulation of the floor

Thinking about how to properly under a cold roof, first of all, you need to decide on the method of thermal insulation.

There are two fundamentally different approaches:

insulation from the attic;
installation of thermal insulation material from inside the room.

The first method is more preferable for a number of reasons. So, the installation technology itself is greatly simplified - there is no need to build a suspended frame or fix the insulation with glue to the ceiling.

External insulation eliminates costly repairs inside the room, and also does not reduce the height of the ceilings. The latter is especially true if the distance to the ceiling in the premises does not exceed 2.5 m.

Also, with this approach, the risks of condensation are minimized. What can not be said about the thermal insulation from the inside of the room.

If you choose the wrong insulation and do not exclude the contact of warm air with a cold plate, then water vapor from the room will accumulate - this is fraught with the appearance of dampness, fungus and the gradual destruction of the ceiling.

However, in some situations, the internal insulation of the ceiling is a necessary measure, for example:

lack of access to the attic;
reconstruction of an old building with a ready-made attic floor;
thermal insulation of the garage located in the basement.

If internal insulation is necessary, installation technology should be followed to prevent condensation inside the building. It is important to comply with two requirements: block the flow of water vapor and use insulation of sufficient thickness.

Overview of the best ceiling insulation

The choice of installation method also determines the list of possible options for heat insulators. When insulating from the attic, the range of materials is much larger - from natural compositions to technological modern solutions. Installation from inside the room imposes a number of restrictions.

Regardless of the placement method, it must have low thermal conductivity. The coefficient determines the ability of the insulator to transfer energy from heated elements to cold ones. The lower the thermal conductivity, the better the material retains heat.

An important selection parameter is moisture resistance. The ability of the material to maintain physical characteristics in a humid environment is especially important when insulating from the side of the attic, when the roofing is worn out enough

Additional requirements include:

durability;
environmental friendliness and safety for humans;
low flammability - it is better to use non-combustible insulators, compositions with minimal smoke formation;
resistance to rodents - relevant for materials placed in the attic.

It is important to take into account the vapor permeability of the insulation. But there are nuances here. When insulating a concrete slab from the attic side, a vapor permeable material must be used. For installation from inside the room, on the contrary, it is a vapor-tight insulation.

View # 1 - mineral wool insulation

The popular heat insulator holds its leading position due to its affordability, ease of installation and good thermal efficiency.

For installation under a cold roof, mineral wool with a synthetic binder, basalt insulation and glass wool are used. The last option provides the maximum thermal efficiency. The thermal conductivity of glass wool is 0.044 W / (m ° C).

However, it should be used with caution - the particles cause irritation of the skin and mucous membranes. Glass wool is unacceptable for indoor use. Basalt insulation is deprived of these shortcomings. Additional advantages of the material: fire safety and plasticity.

General disadvantages of mineral wool materials:

water absorption;
low strength;
tendency to shrink;
the content of unsafe components - abrasive particles or formaldehyde resins.

To place the layers of mineral wool, it will be necessary to install wooden logs, it is desirable to waterproof the insulation itself from above.

Type #2 - loose cellulose insulator

Bulk material made from paper waste and pulp. To protect against decay and fire, synthetic components are added to ecowool.

The material is used for external insulation - in the attic. Ecowool is sprayed dry over the floor or applied mixed with glue. Requires special equipment to work

The characteristics of cellulose insulation and the technology of its application endowed the modern method of thermal insulation with a number of advantages:

good thermal efficiency - a thermal conductivity index of about 0.038 W / (m ° C);
the material fills all the voids and crevices, forming a solid canvas - no cold bridges are formed;
due to its light weight, it is possible to lay ecowool of any thickness;
durability of service and preservation of original properties;
environmental friendliness - ecowool does not emit toxic fumes;
low flammability and self-extinguishing ability;
vapor permeability.

Despite the mass of dignity, ecowool has not gained much popularity. The main reasons for low demand: high cost, impossibility of installation by hand.

In addition, ecowool is prone to shrinkage and wrinkling - it is advisable to equip a rigid support from above for moving around the attic.

View # 3 - plate polymer types

This group of heaters includes: foam and (EPS). Their thermal efficiency exceeds indicators of mineral wool heaters. The leader is XPS, the thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.038 W/m°C.

Expanded polystyrene is superior to polystyrene in terms of strength, rigidity and fire safety. However, in the event of a fire, XPS boards also emit toxic fumes.

Styrofoam is cheaper than polystyrene foam. Among the general advantages are:

water resistance;
low biological activity;
wide choice of geometric dimensions and thicknesses.

Both materials are vapor-tight, so they are used to insulate concrete and brick surfaces.

The material is suitable for . Penofol is placed with the foil side inside the room - the canvas not only retains heat, but also partially reflects it back.

As an independent material, foamed polyethylene is advisable to use in areas with a mild climate. In regions with severe winters, a combination of penofol and penoplex shows a good effect.

View # 4 - bulk heat insulator

Light porous material in the form of rounded granules. Contains burnt clay. The natural origin of the insulation explains its environmental friendliness.

Additional benefits of expanded clay:

fire resistance;
providing a good degree of sound insulation;
durability;
chemical inertness;
not of interest to rodents;
the heater does not give dust.

The thermal efficiency of expanded clay depends on the density of the embankment, the size of the granules.

To ensure the preservation of heat, it will be necessary to use an embankment with a thickness of 20 cm or more, in cold regions the layer is increased to 40-50 cm. This leads to an increase in the cost of the warming procedure and significantly increases the load on the ceiling.

View #5 - liquid polyurethane

Polyurethane foam is applied to the surface under pressure, a special technique is used for spraying. Polyurethane foam is an excellent solution for attic floors with complex terrain and thermal insulation of hard-to-reach places.

The main advantages of foam ceiling insulation:

formation of a seamless hermetic coating;
high adhesion with materials - polyurethane foam fills all cracks and voids;
low water absorption;
excellent thermal efficiency due to the porous structure of the hardened foam - thermal conductivity of about 0.027 W / m ° C;
preservation of qualities in wet conditions;
the possibility of multilayer spraying - relevant for cold regions;
providing acoustic insulation;
durability of the coating - service life of about 25 years;
speed of processing;
resistance to microorganisms;
lightness of the material - does not exert pressure on the overlap.

Polyurethane foam is difficult to ignite, the insulation does not spread combustion.

Spray insulation is considered one of the best solutions for attic floor treatment. The limited use of polyurethane foam is explained by the high cost of the method

The total cost includes the price of the insulation itself and the cost of attracting craftsmen with equipment. Foam spraying should not be carried out if the air temperature in the attic is below +10 °C.

View #6 - natural materials

The main advantages of folk methods: affordable cost and environmental friendliness. The technique of using and the effectiveness of such natural materials as sawdust and algae is different.

Features of insulation with sawdust

Loose woodworking waste is often mixed with chips and distributed over the ceiling from the attic side.

Warming methods:

Dry backfill. Wooden logs are mounted on the floor, the cells are filled with sawdust. The material shrinks over time and requires periodic updating.
wet method. Combine sawdust, cement and water in a ratio of 10:2:1.5, respectively. Such a thermal layer is more durable.

Weaknesses of sawdust: flammability, fear of rodents and water absorption.

Characteristics and varieties of algae

In coastal areas, algae are widely used, the second name for insulation is damask. The material is natural, good thermal insulation characteristics. Rodents do not start in algae, and the insulation itself is not afraid of moisture and does not rot.

There are three types of stone:

by weight- bales or loose rolls collected from dried pressed seaweed;
mats in nets- canvases 10 cm thick, tied with synthetic thread for ease of installation;
dense plates- up to 85% of algae are present in the composition, the rest is a binding component, for example, silicone.

In terms of thermal efficiency, kamka is significantly inferior to many heaters, the heat capacity coefficient is 0.087 W / (m ° C).

Calculation of the thickness of the thermal insulation layer

The efficiency of thermal insulation depends on the accuracy of determining the thickness of the insulation, which is part of it. In addition, the indicator allows you to calculate the loads imposed on the ceiling structure. When calculating, the values of the allowable weight and the required thermal protection are compared.

The thickness of the insulation is determined by the formula

q = R*k,

q– thickness of heat-insulating material, m;
R– thermal resistance, m 2 °С/W;
k- coefficient of thermal conductivity of the insulation, W / (m ° C).

The R value is determined from tabular data - the indicator is calculated for each region, taking into account the climate.

For example, the normalized thermal resistance of floors for Nizhny Novgorod is 4.26 m2°C/W. If you use penoplex to insulate the ceiling, you will need a layer of thermal insulation 12 cm thick

To calculate, it is enough to multiply the indicators 4.26 and 0.038. The last value is the thermal conductivity coefficient of extruded polystyrene foam. The weighting of the ceiling is calculated based on the volume of insulation and its density. The first indicator is determined by the product of the area and the thickness of the thermal insulation, the second - the tabular value.

The minimum load on the ceiling is provided by polyurethane foam and ecowool, their density is in the range of 25-60 kg / cu. m. One of the heaviest heaters is expanded clay - 180-330 kg / cu. m.

Features of mounting different materials

The tactics of action depends on the chosen material and its location - from inside the room or from the side of the attic.

Mineral wool installation

Installation of insulation is carried out on the attic floor.

When constructing a heat-insulating cake, it is important to withstand two conditions:

to ensure the protection of mineral wool from water vapor coming from inside a warm room;
arrange ventilation of the outer surface to weather moisture from the insulation.

Mineral wool slabs are laid between the beams or planks of the prepared crate. Surface mounting possible.

Before starting work, it is necessary to check the boards for rot, treat the wooden elements with an antiseptic. Make sure the roof is not leaking

The surface is cleaned of debris, if necessary, a wooden frame is constructed.

Further actions:

Install vapor barrier membrane.
Roll out rolls or place mats between beams.
Mount the wooden base, maintaining the ventilation gap between the insulation and the hard floor.

The last step can be skipped. However, it will not be possible to walk in the attic or store things there, since mineral wool cannot be pressed.

Sheathing from the inside with polystyrene foam

This option of thermal insulation is suitable for a concrete ceiling. Expanded polystyrene plates are fixed to the surface with glue and fixed with "fungi".

Before installing the insulation, the ceiling is treated with an antifungal compound and a primer.

The procedure for fixing expanded polystyrene plates:

Apply glue to the insulation, attach and press to the ceiling.
Cover the entire area with slabs, leaving no gaps between the elements.
Drill holes for fasteners with a puncher.
Kill mushrooms.
Joints and gaps between the plates should be foamed.
Cut off the remaining foam, fix the reinforcing mesh with adhesive.
Surface primed and plastered.

After the layer has dried, clean the ceiling and apply a finishing decorative coating.

Filling the attic with expanded clay

The minimum layer of bulk insulation is 20 cm. To regulate the height of the backfill, it is necessary to prepare a beacon - make the desired mark on the piece of reinforcement by securing a piece of electrical tape.

If a wooden base is insulated with expanded clay, then the ceiling must first be covered with waterproofing with a call to the walls. Suitable plastic film

There is no need to lay a hydro-barrier on a concrete base.

Sequence of work:

Pour expanded clay and evenly distribute the granules.
Check the thickness of the insulating layer. Its height should be 3-4 cm below the level of the flooring. If this norm is neglected, then when walking in the attic, the sound of rubbing the granules will be heard.
Lay a layer of vapor barrier membrane, glue the joints of the sheets with adhesive tape.
Install a rigid base. Suitable boards, fiberboard or OSB panels.

A floor over expanded clay makes it easier to move around the attic and increases the effectiveness of the heat-insulating cake.

Application of sprayed insulation

It will not work to do the work on your own, since spraying will require expensive equipment - a high-pressure apparatus. In addition, skills in working with equipment are required to evenly distribute polyurethane foam.

It is better to entrust the work to a specialized company and conclude an agreement with them for the provision of services. At the appointed time, a brigade arrives, stretches a hose with a gun into the house

Mount wooden logs on the floor of the attic. They will be needed for the subsequent fastening of the flooring.
Fill the device with components in the required proportions.
Set the gun to the minimum foam delivery force.
Apply polyurethane foam between the joists in an even layer.
Wait for the composition to dry. If the thickness of one layer is not enough, then the treatment must be repeated.
Level the hardened coating, cutting off the excess to the level of the lag.
Mount a rigid base on the boards.

To insulate a small ceiling with your own hands, you can use a disposable foam spray kit.

The kit includes everything you need: cylinders with components for the preparation of foam insulation, a spray gun, hoses, personal protective equipment

Assembly and preparation takes a couple of minutes, no power supplies are needed - the device works autonomously.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Mineral wool floor insulation technology:

Thermal insulation of the ceiling of a private house with sawdust:

Insulation of the ceiling with a cold roof is one of the conditions for comfortable and economical operation of the house. When arranging a heat-insulating layer, it is important to choose the right material. The method of installation is important, as well as the mandatory formation of a reliable cut-off of condensate.

A warm attic is not only a place to store inventory, but also a 20% reduction in heat loss at home! Do-it-yourself attic insulation in a private house will save a lot of money, especially since the whole process does not require special building skills.

Warm and moist air from the lower floors of the house, according to the laws of thermodynamics, rises. From the correct insulation of the attic will depend on whether all the heat goes outside, or stays in the house. Hydro and vapor barrier films will help to solve the problem with excess moisture.

First of all, you should decide on the further operation of the attic. If you plan to make it heated, you do not need to insulate the attic partition, as well as organize vapor barrier from the lower floors. In this case, it is necessary to insulate only the roof.

Roofing cake from inside to outside will look like this:

vapor barrier - a vapor barrier film for rooms with forced ventilation or a vapor barrier membrane with a minimum vapor permeability to remove excess steam from the room;
insulation - can be anything, but with vapor permeability higher than vapor barrier;
waterproofing - a simple waterproof film for non-hygroscopic insulation or a windproof film with one-way vapor permeability for moisture-accumulating insulation.

If the attic is non-residential, it is necessary to insulate the attic floor itself. To reduce the level of humidity in the house, do not use impervious films and insulation, allowing moisture to evaporate through the attic. And so that moisture does not spoil the rafters, condensing on the inside, you need to choose anti-condensate waterproofing for metal roofs and ensure good ventilation of the cold attic.

Private construction is increasingly characterized by the use of mineral wool rolls or basalt slabs. All thanks to:

simple installation - due to different densities, mineral wool can be wrapped around pipes, rolled out on the floor or installed in a wall frame;
high vapor permeability - steam-saturated air calmly passes through the mineral insulation, without lingering in it and providing natural ventilation at home;
good sound insulation - dense basalt slabs perfectly muffle sounds;
accessibility - you can buy mineral wool at any hardware store, and the variability of shapes and sizes will allow you to choose a heater for any need.

There are also disadvantages - mineral wool loses its properties when wet, so a dew point should not be allowed to appear in the insulation and moisture can be unhindered from evaporating from the thickness of the plates and mats.

Foam insulation is also quite popular, because it:

relatively inexpensive;
easy to install;
does not lose properties when wet;
has low thermal conductivity.

But due to the lack of vapor permeability, houses insulated with polystyrene foam get the effect of a greenhouse and must be equipped with forced ventilation. If condensation forms between the foam and the wooden elements, this leads to the rapid decay of the wood.

Sprayed heaters are convenient for quick and dense filling of hard-to-reach places. Ecowool, made from cellulose, is vapor permeable and allows wooden structures to breathe. It is convenient to use for warming small attic spaces.

But ecowool is afraid of getting wet, and its use will require special equipment for blowing.

Polyurethane foam is a strong and durable material that is not afraid of moisture, suitable for warming large rooms. But, like any polymer insulation, it does not allow steam and air to pass through, so it is not recommended for wooden houses. Thanks to the development of the construction industry, now PPU insulation does not require the use of special equipment, since cylinders have appeared that work from a construction gun on the principle of mounting foam.

Attic insulation technology

Depending on whether the attic will be habitable, the technology of its insulation also depends. For a warm attic, only the roof is insulated, for a cold attic, only the attic floor.

Insulation of a residential attic with mineral wool or foam plastic

If the house has already been built and you don’t want to disassemble the roof, this can be done from the inside:

After that, you can start finishing the attic and begin to settle in!

A cold attic in a wooden house can be insulated with a minimum of cost and effort using ordinary sawdust. This method will improve the microclimate in the house due to natural ventilation. To do this, it is important to ensure maximum vapor permeability of the attic floor:

cardboard should be laid on the subfloor - just to prevent sawdust from falling through the cracks;
a layer of sawdust 15-20 cm thick is poured;
in no case should sawdust be covered with waterproofing - they should be freely ventilated;
the floor is laid with a small gap between sawdust and boards.

How to properly insulate reinforced concrete attic floors is described in detail in the video:

Salvation from the harsh Russian climate for many people is a warm home. It is not always enough to insulate the foundation, basement and walls: if the roof of the house is cold, you need to properly insulate the attic. This procedure has a number of features that must be considered before starting work. Otherwise, all the means and efforts will be wasted, the result will not justify the efforts made.

Peculiarities

Regardless of the type of building and its number of storeys, work with floors must be carried out according to strict rules.

It is required to provide a margin of safety covering its own weight and design load.
Under full design load, no deformation or deflection should occur.
It is necessary to ensure the level of sound insulation prescribed by the regulations or special recommendations for building projects.
It is supposed to maintain the fire resistance limit established by regulatory documents.

When insulating attics, any of these requirements may be violated due to ignorance, carelessness or deviation from standard technology. The rest of the nuances already belong to one group of floors.

Types of floors

From the attic, the main part of the house can be separated by attic and interfloor floors. The difference lies in the fact that in the first case the upper part of the building is not heated, and in the second it is turned into a residential attic.

By design, the bearing segments of the floors are beamed and beamless. The former are formed by beams and filling, the latter are homogeneous, made in the form of slabs or panels.

Beam ceilings in a private house are created in such a way that the main elements are at the same distance. The main structural material is wood. Metal and reinforced concrete are practically not used.

Wooden blocks are quite light, but have a serious disadvantage - the maximum length is limited. In the interfloor version, they can be used if the span is not longer than 5 m. For an unused attic, you can increase the allowable value by 1 m.

Sometimes you need to make the span even bigger. Then you need to use metal structures. In a summer country house, for obvious reasons, such a solution is not used. Most often, the flooring that is placed on top of the beams simultaneously acts as a ceiling (for the lower floor) and as a floor (for an attic or a simple attic).

In addition to the beams and flooring, they also install a run-up and a layer of insulation.

Houses resembling a rectangle in shape overlap parallel to the shortest wall. Strictly defined distance and section of the structure help to avoid deflection of beams in a loaded state. These indicators are interrelated.

Under a cold roof, it is required to lay beams with a gap greater than under the attic(this is due to the difference in load). Regardless of the specific option, it is necessary to insulate the ceiling in such a way as to guarantee the protection of the rafters from water ingress. On top of the protective layer, it is required to create a vapor-tight material.

materials

Proper insulation always begins with drying the attic by opening the windows. It is important to take into account the nuance: they work with the floor of the attic, and not with the ceiling of living rooms.

The range of heaters is large, in any hardware store you can find a lot of varieties. They are divided into three main groups - bulk, rolled and made in the form of plates. Each of the varieties is suitable for solving strictly defined tasks.

Bulk products optimally combined with wooden beam ceilings, helping them to "breathe". But mounting polystyrene foam is not very convenient.

Roll options are highly environmentally friendly.

Plate, despite its heaviness, it is well combined with concrete ceilings (for example, foam concrete), which themselves differ in density.

Insulation from the inside of the room (from the side of the ceiling) is rarely practiced in a cold attic, which is associated with several problems:

lowering the level of the room;
invariable violation of the already created finish and the need for its repair;
different environmental and sanitary safety of heat-insulating materials.

Installation of thermal protection from inside the room can be done cheaply or with maintaining the proper level of comfort. We have to abandon mineral wool, keep a gap from thermal insulation to exterior finish (this is necessary for ventilation). Internal insulation is the best option for maintaining heat when arranging a false ceiling.

If the insulation is carried out with extruded polyurethane foam or expanded polystyrene, pre-installation of the crate is necessary, on top of which drywall is fixed. The thickness of the timber is selected 0.2 - 0.3 cm more than that of the insulating layer itself, the installation step is 0.1 - 0.2 cm narrower than the foam. It is recommended to use mineral wool only in the most extreme cases: it is highly toxic.

Much better ecowool, obtained from cellulose with the addition of substances reducing the risk of ignition. Such material perfectly restrains extraneous sounds. If you use reeds, you can not be afraid of fire.

It's time to figure out what features each of the coating groups has, and what other materials belong to them.

Bulk

The use of bulk type of heaters began in ancient times. Their main options are:

expanded clay;
sawdust;
linen fibers;
reed stems.

Each variety has its own differences and performance characteristics. Ease of obtaining, availability and almost zero price of sawdust have a downside (they have a number of serious drawbacks).

Mice easily settle in sawdust. This can be prevented by adding slaked lime and carbide. To keep warm, a layer of 10 - 20 mm is enough, but this impressive quality is crossed out by high combustibility.

Expanded clay is compatible with wooden and concrete floors: when it is covered, a full-fledged floor covering is created. The thickness of the layer ranges from 20 to 25 mm, under it there should be a concrete screed of about 5 mm.

in rolls

The undoubted advantages of any roll insulation are the convenience of its use and the ease of accurate installation of blocks. This allows you to do the work yourself.

In most cases, despite all its shortcomings, mineral wool is used. Before laying the material, you will have to make a high-quality vapor barrier with glued seams for greater tightness.

If algae is safe, you can't say that about glass wool. Water resistance is devalued by a serious inconvenience during work: you have to protect yourself from small, prickly and dangerous fibers. After some time, the material becomes caked and largely loses its positive qualities..

In the form of mats and plates

Slab insulation is distinguished by reliable blocking of air intake. It should not be used in houses made of natural material.. More often in the manufacture of plates using expanded polystyrene, reeds, ecowool. seaweed.

The technology provides for installation strictly on flat surfaces with preliminary placement of vapor barrier films. Even the smallest irregularities need to be eliminated. It is easy to make a full-fledged floor above the stove, which allows you to create residential attics even from the initially coldest attics.

sprayable

A real technological breakthrough was the use of sprayed heaters. It is important to carefully approach their selection and take into account all the features, including the advantages and disadvantages of the coating being created.

The main positive aspects when using penoizol for insulation are:

exceptionally high level of thermal protection;
excellent absorption of extraneous sounds;
solid vapor permeability (absence of condensate);
the possibility of application in places that are inaccessible or inaccessible for other insulation products;
ease of installation over all existing building materials.

The last point does not mean that careful surface preparation can be neglected.

Only careful degreasing of the base guarantees decent adhesion and stable performance of the material of its main function.

Regardless of the option chosen, the preparatory work is more or less the same.

Preparation for work

Before starting work in the attic of a wooden house, you need to check the joints of the floors. It is important to consider: there should be no gaps and cracks on the base. Any gap is blocked using lime mortar and tow.. Frame elements are impregnated with antiseptic compounds and flame retardants.

If ventilation products have not been created before, the time has come to make them.

If you plan to make insulation according to a roll scheme, you need to equip the floor slabs with logs (special bars). To fix them, screws for concrete or dowels can be used.

When it is planned to turn the attic into an attic, the heating pipes must be insulated. The following types of technical wool are best suited for them:

glass;
mineral;
slag;
stone;
basalt.

For your information: the cheapest options should be used in areas with mild winters. If the frosts are hard enough, you will have to buy a more expensive and reliable insulation.

It is necessary to clean the surface as much as possible from the slightest traces of dust and other contaminants. All sections of heating systems are overlapped with protective materials at least twice.

Features of the combination of heat and vapor barrier

Vapor barrier in combination with thermal insulation is always made extremely tight. The rolls are overlapped up to 0.2 m, glued. A prerequisite is the overlap on the wall, followed by pressing with plaster. Preference should be given to materials that have a foil surface that effectively reflects infrared rays.

Floor cleaning

This moment cannot be underestimated. It is worth using the house for several months without visiting the cold attic, as an amazing amount of dust, dirt, and cobwebs accumulate there. It is necessary to remove all things, even the smallest and most insignificant, remove all debris before starting work.

Warming

It will not be possible to disassemble the laying technology of all possible coatings. You need to stop at one option. For example, such as mineral mats.

First you need to remove the board run and attach a vapor barrier layer to the beams. For fastening membrane films, it is worth using staples 14 - 16 mm, driven into the base with a stapler. The gaps of the structures are filled with mats, which are fixed with the help of transverse rails with a section of 20x50 mm. These slats will help hold the extra vapor barrier.

Then you need to make a boardwalk with your own hands and equip the ceiling. Materials that form a kind of shell (for example, penofol) are better suited to protect ventilation pipes from the cold. It is better than polyethylene foam, it does not so much absorb dust, which is inevitably present in any room.

If the ventilation pipe passes through the main wall, it must be placed in a heat insulating sleeve. When the ventilation duct goes through the room, you need to lay the material where freezing begins to be felt. Ventilation protection is done before covering the rest of the building.

A typical pie involves stacking:

solid board 25x100, 30x100 mm;
a two-layer membrane that protects against wind;
timber 5x5 cm across the overlapping beams (the distance between the blocks should be 59 cm);

beams based on a double beam 5x20 cm;
new timber 5x5 cm;
vapor barrier (best with aluminum foil);
boards on the overlaps of the vapor barrier.

In attics, one has to deal with the problem of a freezing wall or even several walls at the same time. Only the simultaneous insulation of the structure both outside and inside the building will help eliminate this trouble. The minimum thickness of the inner layer should be from 20 cm. This is the rare case when there is nothing better than a simple mineral wool.