Ceiling tiles are badly glued. How to glue foam ceiling tiles? Ceiling tiling

Everyone knows how to glue ceiling tiles, even those who first have to deal with the exciting process of pasting a ceiling with tiled material. The simplest, at first glance, the process will require some skill and skill before you can glue the tiles into a monolithic ceiling surface. And there is something to try for, after a little practice, gluing a ceiling finish made of polystyrene tiles is no more difficult than gluing wallpaper, and the visual effect is an order of magnitude higher and more expressive.

Ceiling tiles: description, characteristics

The raw material for the manufacture of ceiling finishes is foamed and extruded polystyrene or foam. Depending on the technology used, tiles for ceiling decoration are produced in several versions:

• Dense, textured tile with a large number of micropores, with a slightly rough, as if untreated surface. The material is produced with an edge of 20-60 cm, a thickness of 9-14 mm. Thanks to the mixture of polystyrene fibers and balls sintered in an injection mold, the material is quite strong, light, with a porous surface;
• The pressed ceiling board has a smooth, almost glossy surface. The wall thickness is 4-5 mm, the structure of the finishing plate is quite strong and dense, like PVC;
• Ceiling slabs made by hot semi-pressing of blanks from foam or low density polystyrene foam. Instead of a scattering of balls, sheets cut from a block are used in the production process.

The latter method is the simplest, so the ceiling tiles are relatively inexpensive, but not the most durable. Glossy boards are considered the most resistant to dirt and damage; it is enough to simply glue such a lining on the ceiling even without helpers. It is easy to change, if necessary, paint or add new trim elements.

Note! Due to the use of heat pressing, the finishing tiles, even within the same pack, may differ slightly in external dimensions.

Most tiles for finishing the ceiling are made with a small processing allowance, which does not interfere with gluing plates or lamellas. A small spread is not considered a marriage. Before gluing the coating, the plates are sorted and cut exactly according to the pattern.

When choosing a ceiling tile, more attention should be paid to the presence of chips, cracks and striae in the material. Such plates are immediately rejected and sent for cutting, ceiling surfaces are glued in separate pieces in “blind” corner zones, or a repair adhesive mass based on dichloroethane is made.

Calculation of the number of tiles on the ceiling and the choice of glue

Before gluing foam ceiling tiles, it is necessary to at least calculate the required amount of material. The calculation procedure itself is relatively simple and is performed in three stages:

• We measure the size of the ceiling of the room;
• We count the number of tiles;
• We make an adjustment for the width of the seam.

After measuring the dimensions of the room from wall to wall, we get the size of the ceiling in width and length. Knowing the dimensions of the tile that we will glue, we alternately divide the sides of the ceiling into the leg of one tile. We get the number of pieces of tile material that fits on the ceiling along each of the walls, multiply and find out the total number of pieces.

Note! If the room in which the ceiling tiles are to be glued occupies several hundred squares, for greater accuracy it is necessary to take into account the width of the inter-tile joint.

Calculation features

Calculating the width of the seam is simple. It is enough to take three or four single tiles, lay them in a row with a minimum gap at the seams or even with a slight overlap, approximately as they will be located on the ceiling. It remains to measure the total length of the laid out row with a tape measure and subtract from the result the size of a single tile multiplied by the number of pieces. This determines the installation joint allowance for a certain amount of ceiling cladding. For small rooms, the seam allowance can be neglected.

If the ceiling tiles are supposed to be glued in a wooden house, the material must be laid with a slight overlap of the edges, approximately 1.5-2 mm. In this case, the estimated number of tiles must be increased by 4-5%. Without overlap, the ceiling cladding will separate over time, and thin strips of seam will appear between the plates.

If there is no desire to mess around with such difficulties, you can simply divide the quadrature of the ceiling covering, which is supposed to be pasted over with foam trim, by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone tile. The ceiling must be measured with your own hands, the dimensions of the tiled material can be taken from the catalog. With this approach, the material will need to be bought with a margin of 5-7% in order to be able to experiment with ceiling cladding cutouts in more critical areas.

Choosing the right glue

The modern market offers more than two dozen different adhesive compositions and products that can easily be used to glue anything on the ceiling, from wooden slats to plastic and cardboard.

If a base of plasterboard, plywood or fiberboard has already been assembled on the ceiling, then it is best to glue it with polyurethane and acrylic adhesives. They provide a very viscous and durable seam. The only drawback is that such adhesives are always made in opaque form and inconvenient packaging. You can use "Super-Moment", rubber glue, "Globe", but such adhesives are quite expensive.

It is best to glue the tiles with a transparent "Titanium" or "Dragon", you can use polypropylene hot melt adhesive, especially with a heating gun it is much more convenient to glue than with a regular tube.

It holds transparent silicone sealant well, over time it becomes whitish-cloudy and can stand out at the seams. Acrylic and methacrylic sealants turn yellow over time, like the popular "liquid nails", so they are used for the installation of ceiling cladding in limited quantities.

Ceiling tile options

The manufacturing technology of the ceiling slab is designed in such a way as to make the cladding as adaptable as possible to all irregularities and defects in the ceiling. The use of a soft edge for glue, the rejection of gloss and the application of a relief pattern to the surface of the tile, in addition to purely decorative qualities, helps to glue the tile to the ceiling surface with defects, peeling or a slope to one side.

Ceiling tile layouts

If the ceiling is even and smooth, like a table, you can glue the ceiling cladding in any order, you just need to choose the right direction for the incidence of daylight and flows from the chandelier. If the ceiling surface has small defects, then it is best to glue the material according to one of the most common schemes:

• Laying material from the far corner or the main window of the room;
• Installation of plates from the geometric center or suspension point of the chandelier;
• The arrangement of the ceiling tiles with a diagonal pattern, snake, chess, with bandaging of rows.

Advice! Masters advise gluing the ceiling decor so that the lower part of the ceiling is primarily illuminated. In this case, the decorative finish will visually look more even.

If the ceiling base has slopes or defects in several places, then it will not be possible to solve the problem by tile orientation alone, it will be necessary to glue the material with a more complex pattern, for example, a snake or diagonal stripes of several colors.

Why glue the ceiling decor from the chandelier

The first and basic rule for installing ceiling tiles is that it is necessary to start gluing the material from the place where the chandelier is suspended. Only in this way can a stable impression of even and symmetrical rows be ensured, even if the tiles are glued with a slight error.

It often happens that, at the whim of electricians or builders, the central ceiling lamp or chandelier is suspended not in the center of the room, but with a shift of half a meter to one side. In this case, it would be correct to move the laying start point from the geometric center of the ceiling to the fixture of the chandelier.

If the room has perfectly even walls, the proportions and dimensions of the ceiling plane correspond to the correct rectangle or square, you can also glue the slab material from a window or corner, but with the obligatory use of marking cords or a laser level.

How to glue ceiling tiles

The quality and durability of the plates directly depends on how well the surface is prepared and the method of fixing the ceiling cladding is chosen correctly. You can glue in two ways:

• Directly on the concrete base of the ceiling;
• With the use of an intermediate sublayer laid on the surface of the ceiling.

The second option allows you to get the best quality of fastening, gluing on a prepared base is easier and easier than on concrete. In addition, the use of a slab base allows you to level the plane of the ceiling and make it as smooth as possible.

The first option is the fastest and easiest, but the quality of the sticker is worse, in addition, it will take a lot of effort to level and clean the concrete surface, otherwise it will not work to stick the tile evenly and beautifully.

Ceiling surface preparation

In any case, the ceiling surface must be cleaned of the old decorative finish, the remnants of the primer and the water-based paint layer, wallpaper and adhesive flakes will have to be removed. At first glance, the ceiling plane may seem quite flat, but the impression can be deceiving. In any case, at the end of the stripping, two cords are pulled, one of which is basic, the second is movable.

The base cord is pulled along the midline of the room and leveled along the horizon using a building level. A movable cord stretched perpendicular to the base one is sequentially rearranged along the ceiling in increments equal to the width of the tile. By the distance from the ceiling to the cords, the failures of the ceiling surface are determined and eliminated with the help of finishing putty. After drying, the stains are cleaned and primed.

Ceiling markings

To perform marking work, the same two cords are used as when stripping. If the tiles are planned to be glued in the classic row way from the far corner, the cords do not change, the movable cord is transferred to the first line of laying the material. To simplify the work, it is recommended to apply marking lines to the ceiling, along which you can glue the tiles without being distracted by rearranging the marking cords.

If it is supposed to glue the plates diagonally, the cords are pulled along the corners of the room, or with an offset if the initial point does not coincide with the geometric center of the ceiling surface.

How to glue tiles on a flat ceiling

The first tile must be glued in the center of the row. The technology of the sticker is quite simple, the slab is laid in place of the future gluing and risks are applied to the concrete with a pencil, indicating the dimensions of the spot. Glue is applied on the back at five points - in the center and at a distance of 3-4 cm from the corners.

The slab is laid on the spot and leveled according to the previously made risks. To be sure of positioning accuracy, we apply a thin wooden strip 80-100 cm long to the front edge of the tile, and align the position of the slab along it before gluing the next one. It is advisable not to rub the tile to the base, as is usually done with wallpaper, to expel bubbles. Before gluing the next part of the finish, you must wait at least 5-7 minutes.

Uneven ceiling tiles

Often, tiled cladding has to be glued without careful alignment of the ceiling base. In this case, an additional thread is pulled along the row, which determines the lower level of the facing surface. With the help of a thread, you can align the tiles even on a crooked ceiling, but it will take three times as long.

As in the previous case, initially the risks of the border of the spot are applied to the ceiling, on which the tiles will need to be glued. If there is a depression on the ceiling, an increased amount of transparent silicone is applied under the tile, the material is laid on the base. After 30-40 minutes, the plate can be aligned along the thread without pressing and fixed with an invisible pin.

Whitewash ceiling tiles

The answer to the question of whether ceiling tiles can be glued to whitewash sounds simple. You can glue on whitewash, paint or lime, subject to the pasting technology. The ceiling surface is pre-treated:

• Sweep dust, chalk or lime with a damp cloth, rag, sponge;
• It is treated twice with a water-based primer so that the whitewash layer is saturated and saturated with a primer solution to concrete.

After the primer layer dries, the whitewash turns into a strong crust, to which any tile can be glued. Sometimes the dried primed surface is rubbed with coarse-grained emery to increase the adhesion of the adhesive to the ceiling surface.

A more difficult option is to glue the slab on the ceiling, covered with water-based emulsion or lime with soap. The coating must be carefully cleaned with a spatula along the marking lines.

Cleaning and Sealing

No matter how carefully they try to glue the ceiling cladding, there are still remains of the adhesive mass in the seam lines, and sometimes on the edges of the tile. If the cladding material is laid with an overlap, there are usually no problems. It is necessary to carefully remove the protruding traces of glue with a carving knife. We leave everything that got on the front of the foam until the adhesive mass dries completely.

Any attempt to remove the adhesive ahead of time and even accidental contact will result in dirty spots, so the material must be glued only with clean hands, preferably with cotton gloves.

In the event that it is necessary to glue the plates butt-to-butt, the resulting seam must be painted over with a special toner or covered with a plastic edging.

Ceiling tile painting

With all the advantages, foam tiles have one significant drawback - the material collects and absorbs, like a sponge, a huge amount of dust and fumes. Instead of gluing new plates every year, it is easier to paint the surface with a quality water-based emulsion or acrylic paint.

It is enough to remove the dust accumulated on the ceiling with a vacuum cleaner, and carefully apply a double layer of paint with a roller or spray gun.

Conclusion

How to glue ceiling tiles, and what is the secret of high quality work, can only be understood after a little independent practice. In each case, any master has to look for his own installation method, the most convenient marking scheme and the best glue option. To glue the ceiling decor with high quality, you do not need to save on two things - on glue and on the time allotted for the job.

Ceiling tiles are the most budgetary surface finish option. The light weight of the material allows you to attach it to the wallpaper or painted ceiling. However, even such products require a certain approach and preparation. Efforts will not be in vain if you know how to glue the ceiling tiles so that they not only look beautiful, but also do not fall off over time.

Ceiling tiles are sold in various colors and textures. The most common type of material is polystyrene foam. Products from it differ in the method of manufacture and the type of surface.

Depending on the production method, ceiling tiles can be pressed, injection and extruded.

(pressed) It is made from polystyrene foam blocks, in the process of pressing which finished products are obtained. Their thickness is 6-8 mm, and the surface is loose and porous. It is the most quickly polluted, fragile and cheap material. It cannot be washed with water, and gluing tiles to the ceiling must be done very carefully, since the segments break and crumble easily.

injection also made from expanded polystyrene. In production, the material is sintered, and individual white squares with a thickness of 9-14 mm are obtained. A distinctive feature of this type is a diverse relief pattern on the surface, the correct geometric shape of the products, and the absence of joints during pasting. Such tiles can be wiped with a damp cloth, they do not burn and are durable.

extruded It is made from strips of expanded polystyrene in the process of pressing the material. Finished products are painted or covered with a film. The end result of production is square tiles with a smooth and even surface that is easy to clean.

According to the type of surface, ceiling tiles are of the following types:

• laminated. Thanks to the external lamination applied to the surface of the products, they are not afraid of moisture, they will not lose their original shade during operation;
• seamless. Its edges are even, with no edging, so after gluing the tile elements, the joints are practically invisible. In care, you can use non-aggressive detergents;
• mirror it can be square or rectangular, made of plastic. The mirror layer applied to the surface of the products visually expands the space.

The choice of ceiling tiles is based on the following criteria:

• the correct geometric shape of the products is a square or rectangle with even, clearly defined right angles. The slightest defects on the surface of the elements will distort the finished ceiling, gaps will become noticeable on it;
• homogeneous and uniform tile density. A small thickness is not allowed at the edges, and significant in the center, or vice versa;
• the drawing must be complete without depressions and dents.

After you decide on the material, you will need to choose the right adhesive. Modern manufacturers produce a large number of various adhesive masses that firmly fix different types of material. However, before purchasing this or that composition, read the recommendations on the packaging for the tile.

Most professionals, which includes rubber. It is more economically consumed and does not harm polystyrene foam. Among other varieties of glue for ceiling tiles, there are:

• acrylic putty contributes to the rapid adhesion of products, easy to use, not afraid of frost;
• PVA construction adhesive exudes an unpleasant odor and dries for a long time, despite excellent adhesive properties;
• liquid Nails are the best option for sticking tiles on ceilings. They work well on uneven surfaces. However, the composition may include substances that corrode plastic, so read the instructions carefully before buying;
• universal polymer blends. Their main advantage is the ability to use on any surface and excellent viscosity, coupled with adhesive properties.

Material Quantity Calculation

To find out how many ceiling tiles you need, you need to measure the ceiling in the room. If the ceiling space in your room is complicated by built-in niches or arches, it is better to draw a drawing on paper.

First measure the length of the walls in the room. With all sides the same length, simply multiply the numbers to find the area. If the room is rectangular, find its perimeter.

The calculation of the number of tiles for the ceiling is as follows:

• for example, your room has dimensions of 3x4 m, therefore, its area is 12 m;
• standard tiles are produced in sizes of 50x50 cm. For the product, we also find an area that will be 0.25 m²;
• Now we determine the required number of parts. To do this, we divide the ceiling area by the same value of one segment: 12/025 = 48 pieces.

Important! Always purchase the material with a small margin (10-15%) in case there is an error in the calculations or the parts are damaged during transportation and installation.

Ceiling surface preparation

Before starting work, you will need to prepare the ceiling for gluing tiles, since the material must be fixed to a dry, even and cleaned surface. It is necessary to remove the paint, dismantle the previous finish, putty the cracks and cover the base base with a primer. It is undesirable to mount on whitewashed ceilings, since lime impairs the adhesive properties and products can simply fall off.

In case you decide to glue the finish on whitewash, use the following recommendations:

• prime the whitewashed ceiling, wait until it dries well;
• with a spatula, pick out parts of the chalk that noticeably lag behind the ceilings;
• re-priming.

On a note! If you cleaned off the whitewash and reached the concrete base, you should putty the entire ceiling. Otherwise, after gluing, dark areas will show through the light segments.

Before marking the surface, you need to decide how you will glue the ceiling tiles.

Usually they start laying it from the middle of the room. In rare cases, products are attached from the corners.

You can markup like this:

• from the center. It is necessary to connect the opposite corners with a regular thread diagonally. Their intersection will be the center of the ceiling;
• in a straight line. In this case, it will be necessary to additionally draw two lines perpendicular to each other, which will pass through the top of each previously formed triangle at an angle of 45 °. After you remove the threads to determine the center of the ceiling surface, you will get two straight lines along which each rectangle is laid;
• from the chandelier. This method is used if the main light source is shifted from the center to the side. A chandelier is taken as the center of the ceiling, through the base of which two diagonals are drawn;
• from the corner- the easiest way in which markup is not needed. In this case, it is correct to glue the ceiling tiles from any corner of the room.

Where to start

First you need to find the installation location of the first element and glue it to the ceiling. Then you should check the correct placement of the segment, after which you can move on to the next square. To create compositions from tiles of various textures and colors, you will need to draw a drawing on the ceiling surface. Then the first tile will be glued from the center of the room.

Important! A fixed fragment is difficult to dismantle without damaging it. Therefore, immediately align the product.

We glue the tiles

Required as follows:

• prepare the glue;
• apply the solution on the reverse side of the tile - dotted along the edges, with a solid line - in the center;
• press each part well against the ceiling surface, hold in this position for several seconds. Do not overdo it with pressing, otherwise you will easily damage the products;
• after you complete the installation of the first square, lay the rest of the elements in sequence. Thus, tile the entire ceiling.

When you get close to the walls, you will need to trim the details. To do this, measure the required area, transfer the indicators to the back of the tile. Carefully cut off the excess with a utility knife.

Products without visible seams are glued to the ceiling from the center of the room. From the first four segments, you need to make a square, while the corner of each tile will converge with the rest at the base of the lighting fixture. Next, fix the fragments along the drawn diagonals that pass through the corners of the room. Act carefully, pressing the individual elements well against each other. Thanks to the ribbed surface of the squares, the joints will become almost invisible.

You can cover the gaps with an acrylic-based sealant, but this method is only allowed to be used for white tiles. On laminated or painted surfaces, the composition will leave ugly smudges.

Depending on the location of the chandelier and the chosen gluing method, tiles can be placed on the ceiling surface in several ways.

The chandelier is located in the center of the room

With this placement of the lighting fixture, it will be in the center between four separate elements. Tiles are also glued from the center of the room. In order for the segments to be located strictly parallel to the walls, you will need to draw two additional lines.

The chandelier is offset from the center of the room

The device will become the center of the intersection of the diagonals. The tile must be glued in the same way as in the first method. The first segment is attached:

• diagonally - fix the angle in the center of the intersection of the lines;
• for straight lines - the line from the chandelier will cross the center of the square.

Parallel pasting method

In this case, the tiles are glued in straight rows, in a snake or in a checkerboard pattern. If you decide to make a checkerboard layout of squares on the ceiling, take products in two different shades. Thanks to the alternation of contrasting colors, you will be able to beautifully imitate a chess field.

Diagonally, the tile is mounted as follows:

• set the first segment in the center so that its corners are located exactly along perpendicular lines;
• now glue three other fragments along these lines. It turns out that four tiles will touch each other only in the corners;
• Continue until you have sealed the entire ceiling.

If you know how to glue tiles on ceilings, you can easily finish and cope with this task with your own hands. Useful tips on the video will help you in your work.

How to quickly glue ceiling tiles video instruction

Among all the coatings used for decorative ceilings, foam tiles are becoming more and more prominent. And this is quite natural, since it has a democratic cost and a very spectacular appearance. The ease of installation is also noteworthy: it is not difficult to glue ceiling tiles, anyone who is not too lazy to read the recommendations listed below will cope with this task.

Peculiarities

The materials from which such products are made are foamed polymers, also called cellular. Due to the peculiarities of their structure, they allow for high sound and thermal insulation of the equipped premises, making the home more comfortable.

Another significant feature of the foam tiles is its lightness, which allows you to carry out almost all the necessary work alone (with the exception of marking, which is desirable to do with a partner).

It is impossible not to note the variety of foam ceiling tiles.

They can have a different form, which happens:

• rectangular (the most popular is its square variation);
• diamond-shaped;
• hexagonal.

As for the surface of such products, it can be plain and laminated, smooth and embossed. In addition, many foam panels have an original color that imitates wood, stone, stucco, fabric and other materials. The choice of the most suitable type of plates depends on the taste preferences of the owner of the dwelling, as well as on the specifics of the room. In particular, it is better to paste over the kitchen ceiling with laminated foam plates, and the use of waterproof panels is considered to be the best solution for the bathroom.

Material calculation and adhesive selection

Before proceeding with the procedure for pasting the ceiling with foam boards, you should decide on the required amount of this finishing material. To do this, it is necessary to divide two areas - the ceiling and the tiles, the first to the second. Given that the products in question most often have dimensions of 50x50 cm, the area of ​​\u200b\u200beach of them is 0.25 m².

It is also worth noting that 10-15% must be added to the obtained numerical value, acting as "insurance" in case of excess consumption of material or its damage.

If the owner of the premises does not consider it necessary to calculate the specific number of required foam panels, it is reasonable for him to use an alternative solution:

• determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room by multiplying its length and width;
• add standard 10-15% to the result;
• buy the calculated tile area in a specialized store.

There you can also purchase glue, the composition of which is best suited for foam panels. It should be bought in accordance with the amount of finishing materials, based on the average consumption per 1 m². Experience shows that pasting a ceiling with an area of ​​​​24 m² involves the use of 400 ml of glue, and 450 ml is enough not only to carry out this procedure, but also to securely fix the friezes. As for ceilings, the surface of which cannot be called perfectly flat, it is best to glue tiles to them with finishing putty mixed with PVA building glue in a ratio of 5: 1.

Another point worthy of attention is the calculation of the total length of the purchased ceiling plinths.

This value is equal to the perimeter of the room, to which 5% should be added to compensate for the inevitable undercuts.

Surface preparation and marking

The procedure preceding the pasting of the ceiling with foam panels is its thorough cleaning. It provides for the removal of the previous finish, which can be wallpaper, tile or whitewash, as well as cleaning the surface from various kinds of contaminants. Next, the ceiling must be treated with a primer - a special compound that provides maximum adhesion and negates the likelihood of the spread of pathogenic microflora. Special attention should be paid to the largest irregularities and differences, if any.

Upon completion of the above activities, you can begin to mark the surface - a task, the correct solution of which involves taking into account the location of the foam plates. The latter largely depends on the characteristics of the room: for example, longitudinal laying is great for small rooms, and diagonal for large ones. As for the point, which is a guide for pasting, then most often its role is played by the center of the ceiling or the location of the chandelier.

The presented options involve the following actions:

• Longitudinal. This method is the most popular, which is primarily due to its simplicity. First you need to select a starting point (for example, the center of the ceiling), and then divide the surface through it into 4 parts with lines parallel to the walls. The result of this operation will be 4 squares or rectangles. From the same point, you need to start pasting the ceiling with foam panels.

• Diagonal. In the case under consideration, the marking is carried out in the same way as in the situation with the longitudinal arrangement of the plates, with only one difference. Each of the formed right angles, the vertex of which is the starting point, should be divided into 2 equal parts by means of the corresponding line - the bisector. This action shifts the laying by 45°, which ensures the diagonal arrangement of decorative elements.

If the center of the room acts as a guide, then it must be accurately found. To do this, a pair of threads stretched from diagonally located corners of the room is enough: the desired result will be the point at which they intersect.

It is desirable to mark the surface using a chopping cord, trying to achieve the highest possible accuracy.

Mounting

Having completed the marking of the ceiling, the owner of the premises can proceed to the pasting procedure. If the panels look the same, you can glue them in any order, and in a situation where the tile has a composite pattern, you must strictly adhere to the required pattern.

In addition, the following rules must be taken into account:

• Pasting the ceiling with foam plates is desirable to carry out after turning off the power supply.
• To prevent the decorative elements from getting dirty, you need to work with them with gloves.

• You can apply glue to the back of the tile in different ways. In particular, this is done with a solid line or dotted lines, as well as at the center and corners of the ceiling plate. The best tool in such cases is a comb.
• It is desirable to apply glue only on the foam panel, so as not to cover the previously created markup.
• It is necessary to start pasting from the chosen starting point - so that the corners of the 4 central tiles converge in it. If the lamp mount is located in it, then the corresponding corners of the foam panels will have to be carefully cut.

• After aligning the plates along the marked lines, they must be pressed tightly against the ceiling. At the same time, excessive efforts are not required - in order to avoid the appearance of dents on the mounted decorative elements.
• The slabs intended for the last rows most often need to be cut to the required size. As soon as this procedure is completed, a control fitting of the foam panels should be carried out. If the dimensions of the products correspond to the conditions of the task, you can start applying glue.
• The cracks that form at the edges of the ceiling after pasting it must be filled with cut-out fragments of ceiling tiles that have the appropriate dimensions.

It is also worth adding that all work must be carried out gradually, step by step equipping small areas of the surface. In addition, it is important to get rid of excess glue in a timely manner, “armed” with a slightly moistened rag.

Sealing and gluing friezes

Practice shows that sometimes the dimensions of ceiling tiles belonging to the same model may differ slightly. As a rule, such deviations do not exceed 1-2 mm, but even this is enough to displace the joints between the glued panels. In order to avoid such a misfortune, experts advise mounting foam plates at a slight distance from each other - about 2 mm.

In the future, the seams must be sealed with putty or acrylic sealant matching color for excellent gap camouflage and optimum grip. After drying, the created decorative surface can be coated with water-based paint, which allows you to hide any, even the smallest errors.

The final event is sticking foam friezes to the ceiling. Like slabs, they can also boast of a variety of design options, involving many shapes, shades and relief features.

If we highlight other points that are characteristic of foam ceiling plinths, then their list is as follows:

• Narrow friezes, decorated with not very catchy ornaments, are most suitable for small spaces. With wide products, the situation is the opposite: it is desirable to use them in rooms with a significant area.

• You need to stick the friezes from the corners of the room, fitting along the length of the walls and using inserts.
• In order to accurately cut the ceiling plinth at 45 °, you must use a special carpentry tool - a miter box.

You can stick friezes both before decorating the walls with wallpaper, and after - with the only difference being that the first option assumes a higher accuracy of fitting the canvases. Finally, it remains to tightly close all windows and doors in the room in order to minimize the movement of air currents.

Styrofoam ceiling tiles are a quick and inexpensive way to finish. It is not required to attract specialists, have special skills or tools. The work can be done by almost anyone, including alone. And the service life of such a coating is more than 15 years. In this article we will tell you step by step how to stick tiles on the ceiling with your own hands. Also consider what to do if the surface is uneven.

Types of ceiling tiles

Ceiling tiles come with edging or with smooth edges. The latter is called seamless, since the joints are invisible when properly installed. The ceiling appears to be painted or chalk whitewashed.

Three types of seamless ceiling tiles are produced, in which the effect is obtained in different ways:

1. With curly edges (zigzag or wavy). The tiles are firmly attached to each other. In addition, jagged lines are less visible to the human eye than straight lines.
2. With a calibrated edge, that is, with minimal dimensional errors and identical angles. The seams are extremely thin.
3. With decorative fill. On the surface there is a relief ornament (vegetative, geometric or abstract), which distracts attention from the joints and makes them invisible.

Panels with a seam have an uneven edge (with a chamfer of various shapes and sizes). Therefore, after gluing, visible joints remain that have to be sealed.

Most often, foam ceiling tiles are produced in the form of a square with a side of 50 cm. But there are other formats, including rectangular ones:

• 30x60;
• 30x70;
• 40x40;
• 40x70;
• 60x60.

Ceiling panels also differ in material, production technology and surface type. Each has its pros and cons, but this does not affect the installation process.

Layout options

Gluing ceiling tiles is done in several ways. The choice depends on personal preferences, the size of the room and the desired effect.

in rows

Classic layout, in which the edges are parallel to the walls. It is better that the surface is even, otherwise the curvature of the partitions is easily noticeable.

The following options are possible:

• glue a seamless tile, resulting in a complete surface;
• take elements of two colors and arrange them in a checkerboard pattern (this will hide the irregularities of the ceiling);
• lay out other patterns or geometric shapes.

Offset

This option is similar to the previous one. White or colored tiles are glued with an offset of half the element. The room looks airier and lighter. But more accurate markup is needed.

Diagonally

With this layout, the seams are less visible. But sticking becomes more difficult, as more calculations and fitting are required. The number of cuts is increasing. Mostly used products of the same color.

Methods for gluing ceiling tiles

The installation of elements occurs in a certain order. In this article, we will consider laying options in rows, while diagonal and rhombus are described in another. The edges are parallel to the walls. Previously, the ceiling is marked under the ceiling tiles.

snake

The first square is pasted at the center point, the second - to the right of it. Then lay two panels below. Installation continues in a spiral, from the already attached elements to the edges of the ceiling.

Often an even number of slabs does not fit in size. Then you need to cut those of them that are adjacent to the walls. To do this, use a construction knife. First, the distance is measured with a ruler.

criss-cross

The first four tiles are laid so that one of the corners falls into the center of the room. It turns out a square. The following are glued in parallel rows from the middle towards opposite walls. Then across the previous ones. Lastly, fill in the remaining sections.

Rows from the corner

This option is more often used in small rooms to get less scraps. The first tile is placed in the corner, the next ones are laid along the walls from it. And then - in parallel already glued.

How to glue ceiling tiles

The following requirements are imposed on the composition of the adhesive:

• high adhesion;
• white or transparent color (otherwise it will shine through, especially through thin tiles);
• no solvents in the composition;
• versatility (must glue different materials);
• high drying rate;
• viscosity.

Adhesive selection

These criteria fit:

• universal polymer types;
• polyvinyl acetate;
• liquid Nails;
• special mastics for ceiling tiles.

What exactly is better to glue depends on the characteristics of the overlap. Consider the properties of the compositions in more detail.

Universal adhesives include such adhesives as "Titan", "Master", "Elitans", "Dragon", etc. Unfortunately, you have to hold on to the decor until the composition "grabs" (up to several tens of seconds, depending on the brand ). When decorating the ceiling, this is inconvenient, as you have to stand with your hands up. Of these tools, Moment is faster, but it must be kept in the air after application, and not pressed immediately.

Polyvinyl acetate options ("PVA", "Bustilat") are used only on well-leveled surfaces. The consumption is greater than that of other means, since the glue is applied not only to the tiles, but also to the ceiling. But there is no strong unpleasant odor.

Liquid nails are applied with a construction gun. The composition is distributed dosed. To stick tiles on even surfaces, a small amount is enough: in the corners and in the center. If necessary, glue is applied to the entire area and in a thicker layer. This way you can hide small flaws in the ceiling. Any brand that does not contain solvents is suitable, for example, Moment of Installation or Titanium.

Mastics are sold in the form of a paste in small buckets. These tools are specially designed to set quickly, and therefore the panels do not need to be held.

Is it possible to glue the ceiling tiles with putty

With large differences, the surface has to be leveled. In this case, two stages are combined into one:

1. Apply the putty to a small area in a thin layer.
2. Smooth out.
3. Press down on the foam board.

Most often used finishing composition. But if the overlap is very uneven, they take the starting one.

Calculation of the required amount of tiles and glue

To determine how much material is needed, you first need to know the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling. If the room is of a simple shape, this is not difficult: the length is multiplied by the width. With a more complex one, with protrusions, niches, and the like, use this method:

1. Draw a diagram with dimensions.
2. Divided into rectangles and squares.
3. Calculate the areas of the parts.
4. Add up all the square meters.

The approximate consumption of glue and putty is indicated on the packaging. But when leveling, when a thicker layer is used, it increases.

The approximate amount per square meter will be as follows:

• "Titan" - 50 g;
• "Moment" - 200-400 g;
• "PVA" - 200-300 g;
• "Bustilat" - 100-200 g.

1. Calculate the area of ​​one tile. To do this, multiply its length by its width.
2. Divide the total area of ​​the ceiling by the resulting number.
3. Add about 10-20% (depending on the material and shape of the room). This will provide a margin in case any parts break or are cut unevenly.
4. Round the result to an integer.

As an example, let's calculate how many panels with a side of 50 cm are required for a room of 20 m²:

1. The area of ​​one tile is 250 cm², or 0.25 m².
2. We divide the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling by it: 20 / 0.25 \u003d 80. This is the number of elements without margin.
3. We add 10%. 80+8=88. How many panels need to be purchased for repair.

List of tools and materials

In addition to tiles and glue, you will need:

• ladder;
• construction knife (cut panels);
• roulette;
• laser level;
• pencil;
• a bucket for diluting solutions;
• putty;
• primer;
• brush for application;
• putty knife;
• soft cloth to remove dirt from the front side;
• painting (chopping) cord;
• glue gun (if liquid nails are selected);
• spatula (for mastic or putty);
• brush (for other types);
• sealant for sealing seams;
• ceiling plinth made of polystyrene.

Preparing the ceiling for gluing

Before starting work, it is necessary to remove everything that does not hold well. Whitewash, paint or crumbling plaster must be scraped off with a spatula or washed off with water. Otherwise, in the future, the coating will fall off along with the tile.

Cracks and noticeable depressions must be puttied. But perfect alignment is not required.

Attention! It is advisable to wait some time before continuing the repair, so that the layer is completely dry (from 12 hours to several days). The manufacturer's recommendations are indicated on the packaging.

Do I need to prime the ceiling before gluing

This is necessary, especially if the base is rather loose. The tool strengthens the surface and reduces the consumption of glue. It is better to choose a primer:

• deep penetration;
• with an antiseptic effect (so that the fungus does not develop).

You must wait until the composition is completely dry.

Where to start tiling

In this matter, they focus on both convenience and visual effect. Consider the possible ways in detail. In all cases, before starting work, the ceiling must be marked under the ceiling tiles.

From the center of the room

The first panel is placed so that the corner is located at the midpoint. Three more stick. The result is a square, from which further installation takes place (with a snake or crosswise).

From the central tile

The first element is glued exactly in the middle of the room. The center of the tile and the center of the room are the same. To do this, when marking, lay off half the length of the element in the direction of the walls.

From the chandelier

The main lighting is not always located in the middle of the ceiling, especially in rooms with complex geometry. Laying can be started from the chandelier. Then the initial plates are oriented to the attachment point. The corners around it are cut off. In the future, this place will be covered with a chandelier plate.

From the corner

The previous methods are more often used in large rooms - halls, living rooms. And in small rooms or corridors, it is not necessary to start from the center. The first tile can also be placed in the corner.

For this method, smooth walls are required. It is advisable to start the sticker from the window, and not from the door. Then, when entering the room, the cut-off slabs will not be visible.

Ceiling markings

Before gluing, do this:

1. Fasten the chopping cord in one of the corners.
2. Pull obliquely to the opposite and release.
3. The second diagonal is marked in the same way.
4. The point of their intersection is the center of the room. If necessary, shift to the place of attachment of the chandelier.
5. From this point, using a paint cord, draw perpendiculars to the walls.
6. Focusing on them, draw squares with a side equal to the length of the panels.

How to glue ceiling tiles

First you need to prepare the material. Open the packages and inspect each item. All must be the same size and color, without burrs and sagging along the edges. If necessary, defects are corrected by cutting with a knife.

To stick a tile, do the following:

1. The square is smeared with glue.
2. Apply in place, lightly smooth with your hand and hold until it seizes.
3. Closely dock the next part, align the edges and also press.
4. Excess glue is immediately removed from the polystyrene foam with a damp sponge or soft cloth.
5. Repeat with the rest of the slabs until the entire ceiling is pasted over. At the same time, they are compared with the lines that were marked out at the previous stage.
6. If required, the fragments adjacent to the walls are cut with a knife.
7. The gaps along the edges are closed with a plinth.

It is necessary to firmly press one square to another. If there is a large gap left, a wooden plank or beam is attached to the free edge and moved. It is easy to break the material with hands.

How to apply adhesive to ceiling tiles

If the surface of the overlap is even, the composition is smeared as follows:

1. Distribute around the perimeter at a distance of about a centimeter from the edge (so that the excess does not crawl out into the seams and does not stain the visible surface).
2. Make several strokes in the center or diagonally (for reliability).
3. Wait 1-2 minutes until the product thickens, then apply the tile.

For a porous material (concrete) ceiling, a thicker layer will be required, as some will be absorbed.

How to glue tiles near a chandelier

It is necessary to leave a place to hang the lamp, for this:

1. The first four tiles have one corner cut out. In this case, the total area of ​​the site should be sufficient for fastening, but smaller than the size of the plate.
2. Fragments are laid according to the markup with a central point in the place where the chandelier will hang.
3. Then continue sticking, as usual.

If the installation is carried out from the central fragment, a hole of the desired size is cut out in it.

How to close the seams and gaps between the ceiling tiles

Even after the most accurate gluing, gaps remain, since the edges of the tile are not perfectly even and may have defects. To cover them up, use a sealant, which is sold in cans with an elongated nozzle. The tip is easy to get into the tile seams.

The composition should be white so as not to contrast with the finish. It is best to choose silicone - waterproof.

You can use the remnants of putty or mastic, but only white.

The nuances of gluing tiles on an uneven ceiling

In such cases, gypsum putty is used. Stacking goes like this:

1. Dilute the mixture according to the instructions on the package.
2. Approximately enough to put four tiles on the ceiling. The solution should be laid in a layer no thicker than 3-5 mm. Such an amount is easy to equalize, and the composition will not have time to grab.
3. Carry out with a notched trowel, forming grooves.
4. Attach trim pieces. Match the edges.
5. By pressing with a building level (preferably half a meter) or a rule, they level the surface.
6. Repeat previous steps. As a result, all fragments should be in the same plane (or without differences noticeable to the eye).

Features of gluing seamless tiles

With this finish, the ceiling looks like it has been whitewashed or painted. To avoid noticeable transitions, choose panels without sides or chamfers with straight or curved edges. Tiles are chosen in the same thickness or with a pattern in the center.

If a seamless coating is desired, the general installation method is the same. But there are some nuances:

1. The surface must be carefully leveled, otherwise transitions will be noticeable.
2. Tiles are glued with a minimum distance from each other.
3. When laying, they are guided by the arrows on the back. They must go in the same direction.
4. If you paint the ceiling, the seams will become even more invisible.

Is it possible to glue ceiling tiles in the bathroom

The room is characterized by high humidity, so not any finish is suitable. Of the panels, only extruded or injection are suitable. This coverage:

• resistant to moisture;
• has heat and sound insulation qualities;
• easy to clean;
• not susceptible to fungus.

For additional protection, the coating is painted with compositions intended for use in bathrooms (for example, a water-based emulsion).

Ceiling tile care

Over time, dust accumulates on the tile, especially in the recesses of the pattern. In order for the ceiling to retain its appearance, regular cleaning is required. Dry is needed once a month. A vacuum cleaner or a fluffy brush will come in handy. Wet is done every two months, but only for laminated or painted coatings. The ceiling is looked after using a sponge or cloth.

Water accumulates in the recesses. It must be carefully removed, for example, with paper napkins or other easily absorbent material. If this is not done, the stains will spoil the appearance of the ceiling.

Do not use products with abrasives or chemically aggressive substances. Soap solution or dishwashing liquid is suitable.

If the neighbors staged a flood, you must immediately clean the ceiling. Otherwise, rust spots cannot be removed.

Repair and restoration of ceiling tiles

Over time, the coating turns yellow (especially in the kitchen) and the surface has to be painted. It's easy to do it yourself by preparing:

• paint that can withstand wet cleaning and does not have a strong odor (water-based, latex, acrylic);
• foam roller;
• a brush for corners and other hard-to-reach places.

It is not necessary to choose white. But light colors are preferable - a dark ceiling will appear lower. Cold shades make the room more spacious, while warm ones make it cozier. It is important to consider the overall design of the room.

Thus, with the help of foam tiles, you can quickly and inexpensively finish the ceiling. The work is easy to do alone, and a variety of products will allow you to choose the right option for any room.

If you need to quickly and inexpensively tidy up the ceiling, pay attention to the tiles made of foam or polystyrene. If you approach the matter correctly, you can get a very decent result. About how to glue the tiles on the ceiling correctly, what to use for this and we will talk further.

Kinds

If you look closely, for all its similarity, the tiles on the ceiling have significant differences. It's not about the pattern and shape, but about the appearance - density, surface smoothness and other "little things" on which the appearance and service lines of this type of finish depend. This is explained by the use of different materials and technologies:

The easiest way to glue and care for extruded polystyrene tiles. The second in quality is injection, and the most “capricious” in maintenance and installation is stamped. Now you can choose the type of tile yourself, but there is still an appearance.

Ceiling tiles are most often produced in the form of squares with a side of 5o cm. There are non-standard options - rectangular. According to the type of surface, there are tiles with a piping that forms a clear seam at the junction, there are seamless options. The edges of seamless slabs can be straight or curved.

Design types - with piping, seamless

The principle of gluing does not change depending on the type of edge, only the appearance of the product changes. There are a lot of design options for this type of finishing materials. There are geometric, floral, without a pattern, or with a variety of relief. In general, there are a lot of options.

Calculation of quantity and features of choice

Before gluing tiles to the ceiling, you need to calculate its quantity. This is not difficult. Most often, it is produced with a side of 50 cm. This means that there are 4 tiles per 1 square meter. If you know the area of ​​the room, you can easily determine the required number of tiles: multiply the area by 4. For example, the room has dimensions of 3.2 m * 2.8 m. The total area is 8.96 m2. Rounding up, we get 9 m2. To calculate the number of tiles, multiply by 4: 4 pcs * 9 m2 = 36 pcs. It will take some more trimming, part may be broken. Therefore, we increase the total number by several pieces. How much specifically - you need to look at the layout, but usually 10-20% of the stock is enough.

To make foam board ceilings look beautiful, when choosing a material, pay attention not only to the appearance and type. Carefully evaluate the geometry: all tiles should be the same size, the same thickness, the corners should be exactly 90 °. The quality of the drawing should be stable, clear, there should be no sags or inhomogeneities on the side faces. If you choose pressed boards, pay attention to the size of the "grain". The smaller it is, the better.

What to glue

Most often, ceiling tiles are glued to glue such as "Titan", "Naset", "Moment" or liquid nails. All of them are not bad, but with their use it is necessary to hold the tile for a while. You have to hold from 3-5 seconds to several tens, and this is not very convenient. The Moment “grabs” the fastest of all, but it is not ideal either: you have to withstand the applied glue in the air for some time.

In addition to these compositions, there are mastics for ceiling tiles. They are sold in small buckets, they are a paste. It is easier to work with this type of adhesive compositions, as they are more “sticky”. The tile smeared with this composition sticks to the ceiling, it does not need to be kept for as long as it is lubricated with ordinary glue.

All of the above options are for flat or nearly flat ceilings. Where there are differences (joints of plates), this method is not suitable. If the ceiling is uneven, you can glue the tiles on gypsum putty) or Perlfix type glue. Starting or finishing composition - depends on the required layer, the finish is suitable if the height difference is no more than 5 mm, with a larger layer, take the starting one, but it is better to pre-level such a ceiling or use another system (for example, it is also an inexpensive and quick way put in order frankly crooked ceiling).

Both of these materials allow you to simultaneously level the ceiling and glue the ceiling tiles. Only the method of gluing changes, and dramatically (more on this below).

Foundation preparation

Before gluing tiles to the ceiling, the surface must be prepared. To begin with, we remove everything that can fall off. If there is a significant layer of whitewash on the ceiling, it is better to remove it - the ceiling tile, although it weighs little, can eventually fall along with the whitewash. Therefore, we clean it with a spatula in a dry form or wash it off with water. If large “craters” have formed during the stripping process, it is better to repair them. It is easier to use the starting putty or the remains of any plaster composition for this.

If the base is loose, loose, you can not do without a primer. For concrete, it is better to choose "betonokontakt", for a gypsum base - any composition of deep penetration. After drying, you can start gluing polystyrene or foam tiles to the ceiling.

Placement and layout methods

Squares on the ceiling made of foam or polystyrene are placed with edges along the walls or diagonally. When gluing diagonally, the consumption of material is greater - more trimmings and not all of them can be used, but visually it looks better - it is more difficult to notice the seams.

Gluing most often starts from the chandelier. In this case, it is easier to “fit in” it, since the edges of the plates can be cut a little, and the resulting gap will then close the cartridge from the chandelier. But not all rooms have a chandelier - often there are several lamps and they can be located on the walls. Then they start gluing from one of the walls, most often from the opposite entrance. With this approach, most likely the extreme row will be cut off, and near the entrance it will not be so noticeable.

If you need to glue tiles on the ceiling from the chandelier, markup is required. In a square room, everything is simple - we find the center, we start from it. To do this, we take a paint cord, one end to one corner, the other to the opposite, pulling the cord and releasing, we get a line on the ceiling. We repeat the operation with another pair of corners. The center was found, it is easy to glue tiles from it. For diagonal gluing, there are already guides, and for parallel gluing, you will have to make two more strips - through the center to opposite walls (in the figure above).

But this is a very rare case. More often the rooms are rectangular, and the chandelier is not located in the middle of the ceiling. Therefore, more complex markup will have to be done.

To begin with, we also find the center of the room (painting cord diagonally). If it coincides with the place where the chandelier is attached, great, we “dance” from it. If not, we shift the starting point to the chandelier. Further markup is the same. We measure the distance from the starting point of installation to the nearest wall. Using this value, draw the squares as shown in the picture above (use the masking line). After drawing the diagonals, we get guides for laying flow tiles. On them we level the edge of the first row. The more precisely we set this row, the easier it will be to glue the tiles on the ceiling further.

How to glue tiles on the ceiling: two technologies

Styrofoam or polystyrene tiles on the ceiling are attractive because they allow you to quickly and cost-effectively put in order a far from ideal ceiling. If the ceiling is relatively even, the tiles are glued to a special glue. It is applied in a thin layer, but provides a secure fixation.

With uneven ceilings, this method will not work: the tile simply will not stick with large differences or the view will be deplorable. leveling is not always the time, desire or opportunity. Moreover, often this finishing option is considered as temporary, then planning to make or. Therefore, it makes no sense to waste time and money. In this case, another technology is used - on the adhesive composition for drywall or putty. They work no worse than glue, at the same time leveling the base.

Before starting work, unpack all the material, make sure that it is the same color, size. If there are bumps, sagging, they are cut off with a blade or a sharp knife. Now you can proceed to the installation of ceiling tiles on the ceiling.

How to stick on a flat ceiling

If the ceiling is even, ordinary glue for polystyrene or foam tiles is used, the technology is as follows:

As you can see, everything is very simple and these are all the rules for how to glue tiles on the ceiling. Only one caveat: you need to press one square to another tightly. If you have already glued it, but there is a gap, you can move it by pressing a wooden plank to the free edge. When you try to do it with your hands, you can break the foam or polystyrene, and it’s easier to achieve what you want with a flat bar.

If the ceiling is uneven

If the ceiling has significant irregularities, gluing tiles to ordinary glue will not work. To remove significant differences, use drywall glue or putty. The mixture is diluted to a pasty state, applied to the ceiling, grooves are formed using a notched trowel. The amount of glue depends on the overall curvature, but it is advisable to start with a minimum layer. The area on which glue is applied at a time is approximately 4 fragments. During this time, the composition will not have time to grab, and it is not difficult to align such a fragment.

A tile is laid on a layer of glue. It sticks well, moves without problems. Aligning the edges of the stacked fragments, take the rule or the building level (preferably one and a half meters) and set the tiles in the same plane. Just press the fragments harder in the right place.

Then the composition is again applied to the ceiling, and, again, about 4 tiles. All of them are set in the same plane, or at least so that there are no sharp drops. Only in this case it is necessary to ensure that the necessary layer of glue does not grow too quickly - it is better not to apply more than 3-5 mm, otherwise everything will fall.

Cleaning and Sealing

You know how to glue tiles on the ceiling, but there are some nuances left, without knowing which a worthy result is unattainable. When working on the front side of the tile, the adhesive composition often gets. It must be removed immediately and completely. You can use a sponge or a soft non-shedding cloth. Wipe the surface immediately after putting the fragment in place. After a few minutes, this will no longer be possible and traces will remain. Therefore, while working, keep a bucket of water and a sponge / rag at hand.

If there are small voids between the plates, you can fill them with the same mastic or putty (if it is white), just remove the excess immediately. Another option is white acrylic sealant. It perfectly masks all the cracks, adheres well to polystyrene foam and polystyrene. Thin cracks can be filled with a rubber spatula, and the excess can also be wiped immediately with a damp cloth.