How to properly install batteries in the apartment. Do-it-yourself installation of a heating radiator. How to install the device on brackets

In order for the apartment to be warm and comfortable during the cold season, it is necessary to perform the installation of batteries with high quality. An important step is the correct connection of all elements. The norms and basic rules are prescribed in the legislation, and it will be useful to familiarize yourself with them. If there is a desire and opportunity, installation can be done independently.

Features and types of heating systems

The type of heating system installed in the room determines how warm it will be in the apartment.

They can be divided into 3 main types according to the connection diagram:

single-pipe;
two-pipe;
collector.

As for the one-pipe system, in this case the coolant goes through one pipe to all batteries, and eventually returns through it after it cools down. This option is the easiest to install, and for this reason it is used in all multi-storey buildings. However, there are also disadvantages, in particular, when switching to other radiators, the coolant cools down more and more, respectively, less heat enters the room. In addition, you cannot turn off only one battery for repair, in which case you will have to block the entire riser.

With a two-pipe system, the coolant goes through one pipe, but separately to all batteries. In this situation, all radiators warm up evenly, and the cooled water goes through a separate pipe to the boiler, where it is heated again. If it is necessary to replace the riser, it is not required to turn off, it is enough to close only one battery, which simplifies the work compared to the previous option.

The collector system is used mainly in cottages and is much more complex. In this case, separate pipes go to each radiator. Installation of the system on its own is not possible, the work of specialists is required.

The batteries themselves, depending on the material of manufacture, can be:

bimetallic;
aluminum;
cast iron;
steel.

Bimetallic include elements made from various metals and are often used in apartments. They have good heat dissipation, are easy to install, but at the same time they have a rather high price. Working pressure - 35 atm.

Aluminum batteries also do not create installation problems and give off heat perfectly. Due to pressure up to 18 atm, they are often installed in multi-storey buildings. Radiators are resistant to corrosion, but they cannot be mounted with copper pipes, as the bases can react, which will lead to the destruction of both elements.

Cast iron batteries are most often used in old housing stock., where there are few floors, since their pressure reaches only 12 atm. They are rarely installed in apartments. Radiators are heavy, which creates difficulties during installation, in addition, they heat up and cool down for a long time. Among the advantages can be noted their strength and long service life.

Steel radiators are moderately priced and suitable for apartment buildings. Among the shortcomings, consumers note a short service life - about 15-20 years. And also in this case there is no possibility to increase additional sections. Easy to install and can be installed with any pipes.

Depending on the material of manufacture, differences appear in the process of installing radiators. Due to their strength, cast iron heating elements are more resistant to mechanical stress, the rest require accuracy in working with them. Installation should be carried out exclusively on brick and concrete walls, if there is a plasterboard wall nearby, a special stand is required.

In modern models, it is necessary to provide for a Mayevsky crane.

Connection methods

SNiP prescribes the basic rules for installing radiators. The ability of the radiator to withstand pressure is important. The material of manufacture should not react with the pipes that are supplied to the product in order to avoid corrosive processes. The battery should be placed 10 centimeters below the protruding part of the window sill to release the heat flow.

The distance between the floor and the bottom of the radiator must be more than 10 and less than 15 centimeters. This is a fundamental issue, otherwise the processes of uniform heat transfer will be violated. All sections must be connected evenly and not have significant differences in height.

In order for heat transfer to take place most efficiently, it is important to correctly place the heating radiator. Experts recommend placing it under windows in order to minimize the heat output through these areas. In the case where there is an external cold wall, it is recommended to place additional devices on it.

In general, batteries in an apartment can be located in several ways:

lateral location;
bottom;
diagonal;
consistent.

The most popular is the lateral arrangement of the batteries. It is characterized by high heat dissipation. The pipe through which hot water flows is inserted into the upper pipe, while the outlet comes from the lower one. In the case of bottom placement, both nozzles are located at the bottom. The scheme is relevant if the pipes are placed in the floor or under the plinth.

Diagonal is used when the battery has a large number of sections, 12 or more. The coolant enters through the top pipe, and exits from the bottom. Sequential is relevant when the plumbing system has enough pressure to allow hot water to pass through all the batteries.

In cases where it is necessary to install an additional radiator, the coolant must first be removed from the system. After fixing the brackets, the radiator is attached, the connections are fixed with a special key. On the free hole, you need to install the Mayevsky crane, close all the rest with a stopper. Next, attach the battery itself and carefully align. After that, the remaining elements are brought in and everything is connected into a single system, which must be absolutely tight.

Substitution Rules

There are times when radiators need to be replaced.

This can happen in two situations:

battery failure;
replacement of old radiators with new ones.

In the event of a breakdown, it is imperative to notify the housing office and the DEZ. Representatives of these organizations are required to visit the apartment, conduct an inspection and confirm that it is impossible to restore the old radiator, and its replacement is required.

It may happen that during repairs or for other reasons, the residents decided to replace the old heating radiators with more modern models. In this case, the owner must be prepared to go through coordination activities. Batteries cannot be replaced without the consent of the management company and documents confirming this fact.

Representatives of the above organization should take part in the process of work, otherwise such actions threaten a number of problems.

AT First of all, the parameters of the heating system of the whole house can change. In addition, in order to install a new radiator, it is required to block the entire riser, and this action can only be performed by employees of the management company. If you do it yourself, the violator can face a considerable fine. But you also need to know the temperature regime, which will directly affect how much heat the device will give off, and, accordingly, the favorable microclimate in the room.

After completing all the documents, you can purchase the necessary elements and devices. Next, the date of installation is agreed, in accordance with which the work is carried out. Experts will help you properly connect, configure and start the heating system.

Preparatory work

Before starting work on the installation of heating devices, you need to clarify the type of wiring by which the system is organized. It depends on which parts and in what quantity will be required during the installation process. You should prepare the place of work, as well as the necessary tools.

The first thing to start with is the overlap of the riser. If there are old batteries, they must be turned off, drained of all water, and then disconnected from the heating system.

If necessary, use a pump with which you can remove the liquid from the radiator as much as possible.

When the coolant is removed, the places where the heating element will be attached should be determined. Next, the brackets are installed. You will need 2 or 3 of them to secure the top of the battery, and a couple to hold the bottom. The location of the brackets must be checked using a special level. After that, the site can be considered ready for work.

Mounting

After the preparatory work has been carried out, you can proceed to the direct installation of the heaters, which must be placed on the brackets. If the installation of the brackets is done correctly, the rear wall of the radiator will fit closely to the supports and will be securely fixed on them. When installing the battery itself, it must be borne in mind that it is necessary to withstand a slight slope, which will be about 3 millimeters per 1 meter of the heater.

Batteries are installed, pipes and fittings are brought to them, and all this is carefully attached. How well the work is done will depend on how tight the system will be. Next, you can open the riser and fill with water. This will check how tight the connections are.

When installing heaters with your own hands, special attention must be paid to the installation of shut-off and control elements. It is obligatory to install a Mayevsky crane, because it will play the main role in the future when air is released at the beginning of the heating season. The element must be positioned near the highest point.

When working with a one-pipe system, it is required to install a bypass, which has a valve, in contrast to a two-pipe system, when the connection occurs only with a surge, where there is also a valve. The spurs are attached to the pipes using torque wrenches. Such keys are not included in the kit; when installing a radiator by specialists, they bring this tool with them. If the work is carried out independently, the keys will need to be bought, since without them the work cannot be completed. This element ensures reliable tightening of fasteners.

Lost battery? Do you want to replace an old bulky cast-iron battery with a compact and more economical bimetallic one?

Installing heating radiators is an inexpensive and sure way to return heat to your home!

Installing a heating radiator

Before starting work, consider some of the nuances:

Before replacing the battery, the water must be turned off only in the customer's apartment, and not in the whole house.

Water should be blocked only by ZhEK employees who have the appropriate qualifications for this. Even when replacing the battery with your own hands, entrust this task to specialists. Otherwise, you risk leaving without water supply all the residents whose apartments are located along the riser.

Battery replacement, ideally, should also be carried out by employees of the housing office or workers specially hired for this. If the removal and installation by the customer were carried out independently, then all responsibility for the serviceability of the system lies with him.

Installation and replacement of the battery when using the pipe bending method and gas welding, instead of the usual installation system, must also be carried out by workers who have certain qualifications for high-level work.

Selection and installation of radiators of various types

On the market today are radiators made of cast iron, aluminum, steel, as well as bimetallic radiators. How to choose the right one among them?

Cast iron radiators

Modern cast-iron radiators are no longer the bulky accordions that we are used to seeing in Khrushchevs and most Soviet apartments. Today they look like flat panels with smoothed corners and presentable appearance. Due to its physical properties, cast iron, when heated, retains heat for a long time, gradually giving it to the room.

Advantages: improved heat transfer, service life of about 25-50 years. Disadvantages: heavy weight (one section of a cast-iron battery weighs about 8 kg), therefore, the installation of cast-iron heating radiators is impossible in a number of rooms, the walls of which are made of wood or, for example, drywall. The only option for mounting a radiator in such houses is through the wall. In addition, due to the rough surface and small gaps between sections, such radiators are difficult to clean.

Flaws: a lot of weight (one section of a cast-iron battery weighs about 8 kg), therefore, the installation of cast-iron heating radiators is not possible in a number of rooms, the walls of which are made of wood or, for example, drywall. The only option for mounting a radiator in such houses is through the wall. In addition, due to the rough surface and small gaps between sections, such radiators are difficult to clean.

Manufacturers: Model MS-140 or the so-called "accordion" is an eternal classic, well known to all of us. Transformed cast iron radiators can be found in the catalogs of VIADRUS (Czech Republic), ROCA (Spain) and FERROLI (Italy), as well as domestic manufacturers - CHAZ (Cheboksary Aggregate Plant) or MZOO (Belarus). Price: from $8 per section.

Aluminum radiators

By design, modern aluminum radiators differ little from cast iron ones. However, a significant difference between them is the weight of the radiator sections.

Advantages: good heat transfer performance, the presence of ventilation windows that evenly distribute warm air throughout the room, the weight of the sections (only 1 kg!), smooth surface, can be fixed on any surface.

Flaws: susceptibility to the chemical composition of water, pressure surges in the pipeline.

Manufacturers: Due to the fact that a small radiator can heat a relatively large area, on the market you can find models from 80-100 mm deep and center-to-center distance from 300 to 800 mm, and the number of sections in the radiator from 4 to 16. Italian-made models are more common: radiators firms FONDITAL, DECORAL, RAGALL, FARAL, as well as a number of radiators of domestic production - SMK (Stupino) and MMZiK (Mias). Price: from $12 per section.

Bimetal radiators

We can say that this type of radiator is a compromise between cast iron and aluminum. Externally, bimetallic radiators are difficult to distinguish from aluminum ones, however, such products are not sensitive to the composition of water and changes in pressure. The universal design of such heating radiators directs hot water through steel pipes, giving off heat to aluminum panels, and they heat the air in the room. Installation of a heating radiator of this type is the best option both in price and in terms of the physical properties of the product.

Advantages: weight, advanced battery design, good heat dissipation performance.

Flaws: not yet discovered.

Manufacturers: On the market you can find products mainly from Italian (SIRA, GLOBAL) and Czech manufacturers (ARMATHERMAL). Of the domestic radiators, RIFAR (Gai, Orenburg region), TsVELIT-R (Ryazan) and SANTEKHPROM (Moscow) are rightfully considered the best. Price: from $15 per section.

Steel radiators

Guided by the above general rules for the location of the radiator relative to the window, mark the mounting locations.

If necessary, cover the surface of the wall with heat-reflecting material and fix the brackets to the wall (be sure to use a level to determine the horizontal, as well as a tape measure to determine the length of the bracket entering the wall).

Fix the radiator to the brackets by placing their hooks between the battery sections.
Connect the radiator to a centralized or autonomous space heating system according to the selected connection scheme.

Installation of aluminum radiators can be made both in one- and two-pipe heating systems with horizontal or vertical pipelines. These radiators can also be used for space heating with natural and forced circulation of hot water. Today, the market can offer two options for aluminum radiators:

Reinforced radiators with working pressure up to 16 atm. Such batteries are used for heating high-rise residential and non-residential buildings. For heating a private house, the use of this type of radiators is unjustified due to the high cost of the sections.

European type of aluminum radiators, designed for space heating with autonomous heating systems. The maximum working pressure in such radiators is no more than 6 atm.

The installation kit for aluminum radiators consists of:

automatic or manual air release valve (the so-called Mayevsky valve);
plugs (right or left thread);
sealing gaskets;
racks or brackets;
shut-off or thermostatic valves.

Installation of cast iron radiators

The installation of cast-iron radiators is basically the same as the installation of aluminum radiators. In the case of cast iron products, however, it is important not to overload the wall, and also pay more attention to torque moments. Cast iron radiators are recommended to be installed at a slight slope so that hot air does not accumulate inside the radiator (this can lead to a decrease in the heat transfer of the device).

Cast iron radiators also have an assembly system different from others: before installing such a radiator, you need to unscrew it, tighten the nipples and reassemble the radiator together. floor stands. At the same time, wall mounts are also performed, however, they perform only a supporting function.

Installation of bimetallic radiators

The advantages of installing bimetallic radiators, rather than cast iron or aluminum, are that they weigh relatively little and, provided that they are not inferior to aluminum in terms of heat transfer, bimetallic radiators are able to operate smoothly even at high pressure in the system. The installation method, as well as general recommendations for installing such heating devices, are indicated in the instructions for the product.

IMPORTANT! Pay attention to the manufacturer's recommendations regarding the use of pipes made of one or another material in combination with bimetallic radiators. So, for example, for most houses, only metal pipes are installed, and metal-plastic can only stand in private houses, whose heating system operates at high pressure.

$ The cost of installing heating radiators

The cost of installing a radiator will directly depend on the material of the product, the number of installed sections for one heating point, as well as the total number of heating points installed in the apartment. The total amount of installation costs will be affected by the connection scheme and the cost of the components necessary for the work. Of course, you can do such work with your own hands. However, this will place on you all responsibility for the system's performance, as well as for all possible negative consequences associated with its breakdown. So, how much does installing a radiator cost? On average, all work on the arrangement of one heating point in an apartment can drag on $ 40-50.

Radiator installation:

Kyiv - 250-350 UAH. for a point;
Moscow - 2,650-3,000 rubles. for a point.
The cost of work on the supply or replacement of heating pipes is calculated separately.

Installation of radiators: VIDEO

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: VIDEO

Performing independent installation of the heating system, among other issues, we need to decide at what distance from the wall to hang the radiator. Although this aspect may not seem important enough to some, in fact, the efficiency of the system largely depends on compliance with the installation parameters.

In our article, we will explain why it is necessary to monitor the distance from the battery to surfaces, and also give recommendations for installing the radiator on the wall or on the floor.

Importance of respecting installation parameters

Heating appliances, as their name implies, are installed in a room to heat it. At the same time, for most radiator-type models, heat radiation is characteristic of the entire surface, which imposes certain restrictions on the installation.

As a rule, the distance from the wall to the heating radiator is from 25 to 60 mm. This value is determined, in fact, by two parameters: the fundamental possibility of installation (the size of the window sill, the dimensions of the niche, etc.), as well as the power of the device.

Note!
The more powerful the device and the higher its heat transfer, the greater should be the gap between the rear surface and the wall.

Installing the battery close to the wall is not recommended, and here's why:

Firstly, for efficient heat exchange between the radiator material and air, it is necessary to provide at least a minimum level of circulation. In a small gap, the air remains almost motionless, and therefore part of the heat is lost.
Secondly, in a too narrow space between the rear wall of the radiator and the wall surface, a high temperature is constantly maintained. Because of this, the level of heat dissipation decreases, the battery wall overheats, and the device fails earlier.

Note!
This is important for both water radiators and electric heaters.
In the former, with constant overheating, corrosion is activated, in the latter, the risk of a short circuit increases.

Finally, a narrow gap is very quickly clogged with dust, which can be extremely inconvenient to remove during cleaning.. If you leave the dust where it has accumulated, then overheating and problems with heat dissipation will begin to appear fairly quickly.

It is on the basis of these considerations that experts decide what distance between the wall and the radiator must be maintained. Well, how to put it into practice, we will tell below.

Mounting technique

wall variant

When doing installation work with your own hands, it is much easier to fix the battery on the wall. This task is less time consuming compared to floor installation, but all operations must be performed very high quality.

The installation process itself includes the following steps:

Stage of work	Operations in progress
Site preparation	Select the location where the battery will be mounted. As a rule, heating radiators are placed under window sills or along walls, at some distance from the front door - this way we will ensure the most even distribution of heat flows. We bring communications - or electrical wires connected as a separate circuit through an RCD. We glue the wall behind the radiator with a polymer-based foil heat-insulating material, which will act as a thermal mirror.
markup	We apply markings on the surface for installing the battery (in principle, this must be taken into account when buying a radiator, but duplication will not be superfluous here): From the floor to the bottom edge - 80-100 mm. From the top edge to the window sill - 80 - 100 mm. Width - no more than 80% of the window width.
Fastener installation	According to the markings in the bearing surface, we drill nests for installing fasteners. We hammer plastic or metal dowels into the nests. We screw the fasteners in such a way that the penetration into the thickness of the wall is at least 60 mm.
Radiator installation	We hang the battery on the brackets, fix it if necessary and carefully align it. We connect the radiator to communications and, if possible, perform a test run. It is especially important to check the tightness of the connections for water batteries, since in apartment buildings at the beginning of the heating season, “unpleasant surprises” are possible.

As you can see, the instructions are not complicated, but you need to control the quality of the work at each stage.

floor version

Sometimes the battery is too heavy to hang on the wall - there is a risk that the material simply can not stand it. In this case, installation is carried out using floor brackets. Yes, the price of such products will be slightly higher than that of wall mounts, however, the safety margin is incomparable.

The installation process itself involves the following steps:

Choose a pair of brackets that have enough load capacity to support the weight of the battery.
We install racks on the base of the floor, which we fix with anchors. We select the distance from the wall in such a way that the minimum gap between it and the mounted radiator is 60 mm.

Advice!
It is better to mount the floor brackets before pouring the screed - so we can mask the attachment point.

We fill the screed, hiding the bases of the brackets and the caps of the fixing anchors.
We put hooks on the racks, which we set to the desired height and fix with bolts. If the product package provides for this, we install metal gaskets that will protect the radiator material at the point of contact with the hook.
We hang the radiator on the hooks, which we then carefully align.

Despite the great complexity of implementation, this system has obvious advantages: the load from the battery is transferred not to the wall, but to the floor, so the risk of loose fasteners is minimal.

Conclusion

It is possible to provide the distance between the wall and the heating radiator necessary for effective heat transfer in different ways. At the same time, it is important to make this gap sufficient so that the air in the gap circulates freely, making the heating of the room as efficient as possible. For a more detailed study of the technique, you should watch the video in this article.

Heating in an apartment is the right and inexpensive way to return heat to your apartment. In addition, this cannot be called a complicated process, it is only important to observe all the nuances of installation and installation rules.

Battery connection examples.

Preparatory work

Before starting work, you need to consider some of the nuances:

Connecting the battery can be entrusted to a qualified specialist who will do all the work quickly and efficiently.

It is not worth replacing the battery on your own, but it is better to entrust this matter to a specialist, who bears all responsibility for further malfunctions in the operation of the radiator. In addition, when replacing with your own hands, there are risks of leaving without water all the residents of the house, whose apartments are located along the riser. Water before work in the apartment should be blocked only by employees of the housing office who have the appropriate qualifications.
If the pipe bending method and gas welding work are used during installation and replacement, then the work must also be carried out by workers with certain qualifications for carrying out work with increased safety.

Radiator selection

There is a wide range of radiators on the market today, designed for different customers. The principle “the more expensive the better” does not always work here. You need to make your choice based on the following reasons:

place of residence;
heating system wiring;
on how it will be necessary to install heating radiators;
temperature regime in the heating system;
accounting for what material was used in the production of pipes;
the need for control elements and fittings;
the location of the premises in the building.

Having made this analysis, you can proceed to the choice of battery.

Today, cast-iron radiators can look quite presentable, they can be decorated. Thus, they can easily fit into the overall design of the room.

Cast iron radiators of the modern type are no longer the huge accordions that were in the Soviet apartment, but flat panels with smoothed corners and a presentable appearance. Having good physical heating properties, cast iron retains heat for a long time and gradually releases it into the room. Such radiators have a long service life, 20-50 years. The main disadvantage is the large weight (one section weighs about 8 kg), so it is impossible to mount them correctly in rooms where the walls are made of wood, drywall. Having a rough surface, they are not very easy to clean.

Aluminum radiators differ little in design from cast iron ones, the only difference is the weight of the sections (1 kg). Also, such devices have good heat transfer qualities, a smooth surface, ventilation windows evenly distribute air in the room, they can be fixed to any surface. The main disadvantage is the easy perception of the chemical composition of water and pressure surges in the pipeline.

Bimetal radiators are a compromise solution between cast iron and aluminum. Outwardly, they almost do not differ from aluminum ones, but they are not sensitive to the composition of water and pressure surges. They have good heat transfer performance, are easy to install and inexpensive.

Steel radiators have a panel appearance and a relief surface. Have a variety of connection options, good thermal properties. No major deficiencies were identified.

Radiator Installation Rules

Before replacing, it is necessary to coordinate with the specialists the installation scheme, which will allow you to correctly perform installation work and effectively heat the room. It is necessary to follow the sequence of actions:

Turn off the water in the apartment and at a specific site.
Drain the water from the area to be replaced.
Blow out the pipes and remove the remaining water.
Install a new battery according to the installation instructions and the manufacturer's recommendations.
After installation, test the system for leaks and operation of the radiator sections.

Attention! When choosing a radiator, consider the temperature heating power, the area for normal heating with a certain number of sections, and the operating pressure of the coolant.

Rules for installing a radiator in accordance with SNiP

Installation of radiators in the room must be carried out in accordance with SNiP 3.05.01-85.

There must be at least 2 cm from the radiator to the wall.

The norm for installing radiators correctly involves mounting the battery relative to the center of the window: the center of the window and the battery must match, with an error of no more than 2 cm.
The width of the battery should be equal to 50-70% of the width of the window sill.
The height of the battery above the floor should not be more than 12 cm from the finished floor, the distance from the top edge of the battery to the window sill should not be more than 5 cm.
The distance from the radiator to the wall is 2-5 cm. As an exception, a special treatment of the wall with a heat-reflecting material can serve.

Attention! Do not install the radiator too close to the floor and wall, as this affects the heat transfer performance. In single-pipe heating systems, it is impossible to use more sections than before. In systems with artificial water circulation, if the number of sections is more than 24, a versatile method of connecting heating devices must be used during installation.

Rules for installing aluminum radiators

Correctly assemble the radiator by screwing the radiator caps with gaskets, install thermostatic valves, shut-off valves, Mayevsky valve.
Guided by the general rules for the location of the radiator relative to the window, mark the attachment points.
If necessary, cover the surface of the wall with heat-reflecting material and attach the brackets to the wall.
Fasten the radiator to the brackets, placing the hooks between the sections, and connect it to a centralized or room.

It is possible to mount aluminum radiators both in one-pipe and in two-pipe heating systems with vertical and horizontal pipelines. Today's market can offer two types of aluminum radiators: reinforced radiators with pressure up to 16 atm., which are used for heating high-rise buildings, and European aluminum radiators up to 6 atm., used for heating in autonomous heating systems.

Rules for the installation of cast iron and bimetallic radiators

The process is not much different from the installation of aluminum. It is important here not to overload the wall, but it is recommended to install them at a slight slope so that hot air does not accumulate inside the battery, which leads to low heat transfer from the device.

Before installation, you need to unscrew the radiator correctly, tighten the nipples, and put everything back together again. In wooden houses with a weaker wall structure, it is provided for mounting not on brackets, but on floor stands, while mounting on the wall has a supporting function.

The heat supply system is an integral part of the engineering systems installed in every home. And its arrangement must be treated with special attention. This also applies to the assembly of pipelines, and hanging heating radiators. After all, even a small malfunction can lead to global consequences, so it is important to know how to properly hang a heating radiator.

Work on the installation of radiators must begin with the definition of their connection scheme. In practice, 3 methods are used, they are defined by building codes:

Side. They are used very often, since it is he who provides the maximum thermal return.
Diagonal. Most effective when connecting long heaters.
Bottom connection. They are used for heat supply systems from pipes, which are placed directly under the floor covering.

Instructions for installing heating radiators

After the connection diagrams are determined and heating batteries are purchased, it is necessary to find and carefully study SNiP 3.05.01 - 85. It sets out the requirements for installing heating radiators. Most manufacturing companies attach detailed instructions for installing heaters to their products. If you follow the requirements of regulatory and operational documentation, then there should be no problems with installing radiators.

The main requirement is compliance with the dimensions of fixing the heating battery relative to the floor and wall. Otherwise, the heated air will circulate poorly, and the efficiency of the thermal device will drop dramatically. The requirements of regulatory documentation determine that the distance to the inner surface of the window sill and to the floor covering should not be less than 100 mm. Practice shows that 120 mm will be optimal.

The distance from the inner wall of the niche to the rear surface of the radiator should not be less than ¾ of the depth of the mounted battery. If the specified dimensions are not observed, then, as already noted, the efficiency of the heat flow will decrease. If the heater is not mounted in a niche located under the window, but directly next to the wall, then the marked distances should not be less than 200 mm. Neglect of the set indicators will lead to difficulty in the movement of warm air and accumulation of dust on the rear wall.

What tool is needed for installation work

In order to carry out the work of installing a heating battery, it is necessary to carry out a little preparatory work and prepare a tool.

Useful for installation:

perforator;
drill (its diameter is determined by the size of the dowel into which the bracket will be screwed);
roulette;
building level;
locksmith tool.

The procedure for assembling a heating radiator

Before starting the installation of the battery, it is necessary to determine the installation location of the fasteners. The number of fasteners is determined by the dimensions of the heater. But even when installing a radiator with minimum dimensions, the number of attachment points should not be less than three.

The next step is to install the battery mounting brackets. To increase the reliability of the system, dowels or cement mortar can be used. Work on installing the battery must begin with checking the complete set of the radiator. Then you can proceed to install the components (plugs, fasteners, adapters) on the heating device.

The requirements of regulatory documentation determine that automatic air vents must be installed on heating radiators. If possible, it is advisable to use a Mayevsky crane.

Crane "Mayevsky"

In addition to the installed devices on the heating radiator, it makes sense to mount ball valves at the inlet and outlet. Their presence will avoid difficulties with dismantling if necessary to repair it. By closing the taps, the radiator can be safely removed.

It will not be superfluous to install thermostats. Their presence will allow you to regulate the heat supply to the heating devices, which will create a comfortable temperature in each room.

After installing all the devices and fittings, you can connect the pipelines. The method of their connection to the radiator (traditional welding, crimping or threaded connection) depends on the scheme for including it in the heat supply system. The type of connection between the pipes and the battery is determined by the material from which they are made.

At the last stage, it is necessary to test the heat supply system. It must be remembered that during the tests, pipes and radiators are supplied with pressure 1.5-2 times higher than the nominal pressure. It is desirable to maintain the system under high pressure for some time. This will help installers see how pipe joints and radiator connections behave.

Important! The coolant must be supplied both during tests and when the system is started, gradually opening the tap. Otherwise, a phenomenon such as water hammer can be provoked, which can lead to the destruction of the components of the thermal energy supply system.

After mounting the radiator on the installed fasteners, it is necessary to check the correctness of its placement in the horizontal and vertical planes.

It is allowed to raise the edge of the radiator, on which the air vent is located. This will ensure that the air that has entered the system is collected at the highest possible point, and its release will be carried out quickly and with maximum efficiency.

But a change in level of more than one centimeter is unacceptable, as well as a reverse slope. In this case, the formation of an air pocket is guaranteed, and the supply of coolant further along the pipeline will be limited or stopped.

Advice! Almost all heating companies require installers to install only on pre-prepared walls. That is, the surface must be smooth and clean. This will allow for the correct marking of places for fasteners.

The heating radiator is hung on two hooks (brackets), which are located in the upper part, and the third must be installed as a support for the lower edge of the device. The installer must remember that the number of brackets is determined by the weight and length of the battery.

It is difficult to imagine a cozy home without a heater or a simple radiator. Most likely, no one will live in a freezing or terribly damp house. In such a house, people are constantly sick. A similar problem is relevant for Russia with its harsh climate, which is why the heating season in the country lasts about six months.

Radiators are already provided in all houses, but sometimes it happens that even with several batteries, the house does not warm up well enough. In this case, if the winter is especially cold, and the existing batteries cannot cope with the frost, or there are simply no heating devices in a certain room, heating radiators need to be installed. With them, there will be no terrible humidity in the house, leading to fungal infection of walls and furniture, there will be no terrible cold, from which it reduces teeth.

Why does a radiator, or in other words a battery, cope so well with space heating?

The device of a heating radiator is very simple. Hot water circulates through it, it transfers heat to the metal frame, and it heats the air. Hot air rises to the ceiling and cold air sinks down. This movement of air is called convection. To make convection more efficient, the installation of a heating battery is always the same.

In order for the house to be heated better, it is advisable to install a heating battery near the window and as low as possible. Then all the cold air that enters the house from the street will immediately heat up and will not be able to cause discomfort to the residents.

Important things to remember before starting the installation of heating radiators.

It is very important to choose the right type of radiator. After all, not all of them are the same: some radiators are expensive and not efficient enough in certain cases, while others are too massive for the room in which they want to be installed.

You should start with steel radiators. The installation of steel batteries was very popular during the Soviet era. Such radiators have a very low inertia and a sufficiently large heat transfer. Their price and energy consumption please everyone, but still such batteries are not very durable.

After the water is drained from them, which is usually done at the end of the heating season, the radiators begin to rust from the inside. Well, one more thing, they are bulky and therefore the installation of a steel radiator is not suitable for all walls and brackets.

Lighter and more comfortable radiators are made of aluminum. They have very high heat dissipation and heating rate. If the oxygen shell of aluminum dissolves, then the metal will become very active, which means that the corrosivity will increase.

The installation of cast iron radiators is also popular in Russia. These radiators, unlike the previous two, can last up to half a century, and all because of the inactivity of the metal. Also, cast iron has a high heat capacity, so after the heating is turned off, the heat will remain for several more hours. However, the heat capacity also has a negative side - after connecting such a battery to a heat supply unit, you need to wait a long time for it to heat up.

For those who want to use the best properties of aluminum and steel radiators, bimetallic batteries have been created. Their core is made of steel, and the shell is made of aluminum. However, before installing heating batteries from two metals, you should make sure that there is enough money, because their prices are very high. But for the sake of long service and high heat transfer, you can give any money.

There are more difficult to install radiators that are mounted directly into the floor. They almost do not take up space, evenly warm the room, and at the same time, windows do not fog up because of them. However, the installation length is very high and due to the fact that the radiator is located under the floor, the heat transfer is low.

Why shouldn't a non-professional try to install a battery?

Installing a heating radiator is a very difficult task, it must be done with high precision. The slightest deviation from the standards can lead to a drop in heating efficiency.

In general, someone who does not understand the installation of plumbing equipment can make many mistakes. Here are a few of the most common, after which the installation of a radiator will not bring the proper benefit:

Installation in the wrong place;
Wrong connection method;
Improper handling and care.

Even if the installation of the heating radiator was correct, which is very unlikely for a layman to work, the radiator can be placed in a place that reduces heat transfer. For example, if you place the battery in a decorative box, heat transfer will drop by 15 or even 20 percent. And if the window sill is very large, then the radiator under it will lose about 10 percent of the heat.

Installing radiators and then connecting them incorrectly can be a waste of money. When the inlet and outlet pipes are connected to the radiator from the same side, an increase in the number of sections will worsen the condition of the system. In this case, the first section will be heated to the required 80 degrees, and the rest will be much less.

Even if somehow the installation of the heating radiator was successful, it was connected correctly and everything is going well, improper care of the battery can ruin everything. For example, if you paint the radiator in several layers, the heat will be retained by the air gap between the layers of paint, so the heating of the room will deteriorate. If we paint, then only in black, then the heat transfer will increase, but just a little. Also, do not paint the radiator white, this will slightly worsen the heat transfer.

Installing the battery correctly is not so difficult.

Specialist with a capital letter. Minimum words, maximum deeds. There are no headaches. Pay the money at the rate and sleep peacefully. Replacing batteries in a 2-room apartment. The price was approved by phone on the photo in advance. At the meeting, I saw that I still need to make exits for cold and hot water and a heated towel rail ...

in the bathroom. Showed how. They agreed on a price right away. Zero advance payments. Including materials. Sergey himself went to buy everything. He himself agreed to turn off the water and heating in the housing office. He came and did everything. I also found a leak in the heating riser (an old pipe) and gave the plumbers a phone number with whom to resolve the issue. I sent a video and photo report at the end of the work. And now the main thing is that I am in Chelyabinsk and the apartment and Sergey are in Moscow. In order for this to happen, the daughter (studying in Moscow) gave him the key to the apartment in the evening, and took it the next day. Card payment. Check materials. Payment there on the card. And that's just after the work is done. Miracles and more.

Grade 5+

Vyacheslav, m. Pervomaiskaya

Order services: Installation of a heating radiator.

I am satisfied with the quality, and I think that if everyone, like you, approached those problems of the citizens of the Russian Federation in the same way, then we would begin to live better. Every action of this man was measured. As a master and as a specialist, he rationally did everything. I was pleased not only with the quality of work, but also ...

his attitude. Thanks a lot to you and your company. You are an example for many companies on how to select employees, how to check them before submitting applications. I think they are one of the best companies on the market right now, at least for battery replacements, for sure. I allow you to publish a review, because. I think that it is worthy, correct, reasonable and very effective, so that people are satisfied, and not the way I selected masters until I reached Profi.ru. Everything is really clear here: it suits, it means it suits, everything was clear in terms of cost. If I need anything, I will definitely contact you again.

Grade 5+

I wrote a request to replace the batteries, but everything was much more serious. The house is undergoing a major overhaul and after visiting the neighbors, who have already had the heating in the apartment changed for free, and who are now waiting for the free repair of some rooms after the replacement, it was decided to make a replacement in their...

apartment on your own. Sergey was explained his scope of work, he agreed, he was consulted by phone for a long time, he answered all questions. At the appointed time, he arrived with an assistant. He has gas welding, for us it was also important. I brought with me all the tools and even replaceable batteries (just in case) and did the job quickly and accurately. I recommend it for difficult tasks. The work is very dusty, cover everything with a film if you have a living space

Grade 5+

You can purchase an arbitrarily powerful heating boiler, but not achieve the expected warmth and comfort in the house. The reason for this may well be improperly selected final heat exchange devices. indoors, as which traditionally most often act as radiators. But even the assessments that seem to be quite suitable according to all criteria sometimes do not justify the hopes of their owners. Why?

And the reason may lie in the fact that the radiators are connected according to a scheme that is very far from optimal. And this circumstance simply does not allow them to show those heat transfer output parameters that are announced by manufacturers. Therefore, let's take a closer look at the question: what are the possible schemes for connecting heating radiators in a private house. Let's see what are the advantages and disadvantages of these or those options. Let's see what technological methods are used to optimize some circuits.

Necessary information for the correct choice of the radiator connection scheme

In order for further explanations to become more understandable to an inexperienced reader, it makes sense to first consider what a standard heating radiator is in principle. The term “standard” is used because there are also completely “exotic” batteries, but their consideration is not included in the plans of this publication.

The basic device of a heating radiator

So, if you depict a conventional heating radiator schematically, you might get something like this:

From the layout point of view, this is usually a set of heat exchange sections (item 1). The number of these sections can vary over a fairly wide range. Many battery models allow you to vary this amount, adding and decreasing, depending on the required thermal total power or based on the maximum allowable assembly dimensions. To do this, a threaded connection is provided between the sections using special couplings (nipples) with the necessary seal. Other radiators of this possibility do not imply their sections are connected “tightly” or even represent a single metal structure. But in the light of our topic, this difference is of fundamental importance.

But what is important is, so to speak, the hydraulic part of the battery. All sections are united by common manifolds located horizontally at the top (pos. 2) and below (pos. 3). And at the same time, in each of the sections, these collectors are connected by a vertical channel (pos. 4) for the movement of the coolant.

Each of the collectors has two inputs, respectively. In the diagram, they are designated G1 and G2 for the upper manifold, G3 and G4 for the lower one.

In the vast majority of connection schemes used in the heating systems of private houses, only these two inputs are always involved. One is connected to the supply pipe (that is, coming from the boiler). The second - to the "return", that is, to the pipe through which the coolant returns from the radiator to the boiler room. The remaining two entrances are blocked by plugs or other locking devices.

And here's what's important - the efficiency of the expected heat transfer of the heating radiator largely depends on how these two inputs, supply and return, are mutually located.

Note : Of course, the scheme is given with a significant simplification, and in many types of radiators it may have its own characteristics. So, for example, in cast-iron batteries of the MS-140 type, familiar to everyone, each section has two vertical channels connecting the collectors. And in steel radiators there are no sections at all - but the system of internal channels, in principle, repeats the hydraulic scheme shown. So everything that will be said below applies equally to them.

Where is the supply pipe, and where is the "return"?

It is quite clear that in order to correctly optimally position the inlet and outlet to the radiator, it is necessary at least to know in which direction the coolant is moving. In other words, where is the supply, and where is the “return”. And the fundamental difference can already be hidden in the very type of heating system - it can be single-pipe or

Features of a one-pipe system

This heating system is especially common in high-rise buildings, it is quite popular in single-story individual construction. Its wide demand is primarily based on the fact that much fewer pipes are required during creation, and the volume of installation work is reduced.

If explained as simply as possible, then this system is a single pipe passing from the supply pipe to the boiler inlet pipe (as an option - from the supply to the return manifold), on which the series-connected heating radiators seem to be “strung”.

On the scale of one level (floor), it might look something like this:

It is quite obvious that the "return" of the first radiator in the "chain" becomes the supply of the next one - and so on, until the end of this closed circuit. It is clear that from the beginning to the end of a single-pipe circuit, the temperature of the coolant is steadily decreasing, and this is one of the most significant drawbacks of such a system.

It is also possible the location of a single-pipe circuit, which is typical for buildings with several floors. This approach was commonly practiced in the construction of urban apartment buildings. However, it can also be found in private houses with several floors. This should also not be forgotten if, say, the house went to the owners from the old owners, that is, with the wiring of the heating circuits already installed.

Two options are possible here, shown below in the diagram, respectively, under the letters "a" and "b".

Prices for popular heating radiators

Option "a" is called a riser with an upper coolant supply. That is, from the supply manifold (boiler), the pipe rises freely to the highest point of the riser, and then sequentially passes down through all the radiators. That is, the hot coolant is supplied directly to the batteries in the direction from top to bottom.
Option "b" - single-pipe wiring with bottom feed. Already on the way up, along the ascending pipe, the coolant passes a series of radiators. Then the direction of the flow changes to the opposite, the coolant passes through another string of batteries until it enters the "return" collector.

The second option is used for reasons of saving pipes, but it is obvious that the disadvantage of a single-pipe system, that is, the temperature drop from radiator to radiator along the coolant, is even more pronounced.

Thus, if you have a single-pipe system installed in your house or apartment, then in order to select the optimal scheme for connecting radiators, it is imperative to clarify in which direction the coolant is supplied.

The secrets of the popularity of the heating system "Leningradka"

Despite the rather significant shortcomings, single-pipe systems still remain quite popular. An example of this - which is described in detail in a separate article of our portal. And one more publication is devoted to that element, without which single-pipe systems are not able to work normally.

What if the system is two-pipe?

A two-pipe heating system is considered more advanced. It is easier to manage, better amenable to fine adjustments. But this is against the background of the fact that more material is required to create it, and installation work is becoming larger.

As can be seen from the illustration, both the supply pipe and the return pipe are essentially manifolds to which the corresponding pipes of each of the radiators are connected. The obvious advantage is that the temperature in the supply pipe-collector is maintained almost the same for all heat exchange points, that is, it almost does not depend on the location of a particular battery in relation to the heat source (boiler).

This scheme is also used in systems for houses with several floors. An example is shown in the diagram below:

In this case, the supply riser is muffled from above, as is the "return" pipe, that is, they are turned into two parallel vertical collectors.

Here it is important to understand one nuance correctly. The presence of two pipes near the radiator does not mean at all that the system itself is a two-pipe system. For example, with vertical wiring, there may be such a picture:

Such an arrangement can mislead an inexperienced owner in these matters. Despite the presence of two risers, the system is still single-pipe, since the heating radiator is connected to only one of them. And the second is a riser that provides the upper supply of coolant.

aluminum radiator prices

aluminum radiator

It's different if the connection looks like this:

The difference is obvious: the battery is embedded in two different pipes - supply and return. That is why there is no bypass jumper between the inputs - it is completely unnecessary with such a scheme.

There are other two-pipe connection schemes. For example, the so-called collector (it is also called "beam" or "star"). This principle is often resorted to when they try to place all the pipes of the circuit wiring secretly, for example, under the floor covering.

In such cases, a collector node is placed in a certain place, and from it already has separate supply and return pipes for each of the radiators. But at its core, it's still a two-pipe system.

Why is all this being told? And to the fact that if the system is two-pipe, then in order to select the radiator connection scheme, it is important to clearly know which of the pipes is the supply manifold, and which is connected to the "return".

But the direction of flow through the pipes themselves, which was decisive for a single-pipe system, does not play a role here. The movement of the coolant directly through the radiator will depend solely on the relative position of the tie-in pipes into the supply and into the "return".

By the way, even in the conditions of a not very large house, a combination of both schemes may well be used. For example, a two-pipe system was used, however, in a separate area, say, in one of the spacious rooms or in an extension, several radiators connected according to the single-pipe principle are located. And this means that in order to choose a connection scheme, it is important not to get confused, and individually evaluate each heat exchange point: what will be decisive for it - the direction of the flow in the pipe or the relative position of the pipes-collectors of the supply and "return".

If such clarity is achieved, it is possible to select the optimal scheme for connecting radiators to the circuits.

Schemes for connecting radiators to the circuit and evaluating their effectiveness

All of the above was a kind of "prelude" to this section. Now we will get acquainted with how radiators can be connected to the pipes of the circuit, and which method gives the maximum heat transfer efficiency.

As we have already seen, two radiator inputs are activated, and two more are muffled. What direction of movement of the coolant through the battery will be optimal?

A few more preliminary words. What are the "motivating reasons" for the movement of the coolant through the channels of the radiator.

This is, firstly, the dynamic pressure of the liquid created in the heating circuit. The liquid tends to fill the entire volume if conditions are created for this (there are no air pockets). But it is quite clear that, like any stream, it will tend to flow along the path of least resistance.
Secondly, the temperature difference (and, accordingly, the density) of the coolant in the radiator cavity itself also becomes the “driving force”. Hotter streams tend to rise, trying to displace the cooled ones.

The combination of these forces ensures the flow of coolant through the radiator channels. But depending on the connection scheme, the overall picture can vary quite a lot.

Prices for cast iron radiators

cast iron radiator

Diagonal connection, infeed from above

Such a scheme is considered to be the most effective. Radiators with such a connection show their capabilities to the fullest. Usually, when calculating a heating system, it is she who is taken as a “unit”, and one or another correction factor will be introduced for all the others.

It is quite obvious that a priori, the coolant cannot meet any obstacles with such a connection. The liquid completely fills the volume of the pipe of the upper manifold, flows evenly through the vertical channels from the upper manifold to the lower one. As a result, the entire heat exchange area of the radiator is heated evenly, and the maximum heat transfer of the battery is achieved.

One-way connection, feed from above

Highly common scheme - this is how radiators are usually mounted in a single-pipe system in the risers of high-rise buildings with an upper supply, or on descending branches - with a lower supply.

In principle, the circuit is quite effective, especially if the radiator itself is not too long. But if there are a lot of sections in the battery, then the appearance of negative moments is not excluded.

It is quite likely that the kinetic energy of the coolant will be insufficient for the flow to fully pass through the upper collector to the very end. The liquid is looking for "easy ways", and the bulk of the flow begins to pass through the vertical internal channels of the sections, which are located closer to the inlet pipe. Thus, it is impossible to completely exclude the formation in the “peripheral zone” of a stagnation area, the temperature of which will be lower than in the area adjacent to the side of the tie-in.

Even with normal dimensions of radiators along the length, one usually has to put up with a loss of thermal power of about 3÷5%. Well, if the batteries are long, then the efficiency can be even lower. In this case, it is better to apply either the first scheme, or use special methods for optimizing the connection - a separate section of the publication will be devoted to this.

One-way connection, infeed from below

The scheme cannot be called effective in any way, although, by the way, it is used quite often when installing single-pipe heating systems in multi-storey buildings, if the supply is from below. On the ascending branch, all the batteries in the riser are most often built in this way. and, probably, this is the only slightly justified case of its use.

For all, it seems, the similarity with the previous one, the shortcomings here are only exacerbated. In particular, the occurrence of a dead zone in the side of the radiator remote from the inlet becomes even more likely. This is easily explained. Not only will the coolant look for the shortest and freest path, the difference in density will also contribute to its upward trend. And the periphery can either “freeze” or the circulation in it will be insufficient. That is, the far edge of the radiator will become noticeably colder.

The loss of heat transfer efficiency with such a connection can reach 20÷22%. That is, unless absolutely necessary, it is not recommended to resort to it. And if circumstances leave no other choice, then it is recommended to resort to one of the optimization methods.

Bidirectional bottom connection

Such a scheme is used quite often, usually for reasons of hiding the supply pipe from visibility as much as possible. However, its effectiveness is still far from optimal.

It is quite obvious that the easiest way for the coolant is the lower collector. Its upward propagation along vertical channels occurs solely due to the difference in density. But this flow becomes a "brake" oncoming flows of the cooled liquid. As a result, the upper part of the radiator can warm up much more slowly and not as intensively as we would like.

Losses in the overall heat exchange efficiency with such a connection can reach up to 10÷15%. True, such a scheme is also easy to optimize.

Diagonal connection from below

It is difficult to think of a situation in which one would have to resort to such a connection. However, consider this scheme.

Prices for bimetallic radiators

bimetal radiators

The direct flow entering the radiator gradually wastes its kinetic energy, and may simply “not finish off” along the entire length of the lower collector. This is facilitated by the fact that the flows in the initial section rush upwards, both along the shortest path and due to the temperature difference. As a result, on a battery with a large comic section, it is quite likely that a stagnant area with a low temperature will appear under the return pipe.

Approximate loss of efficiency, despite the apparent similarity with the most optimal option, with this connection are estimated at 20%.

Bilateral top connection

Let's be honest - this is more of an example, since putting such a scheme into practice would be the height of illiteracy.

Judge for yourself - a direct passage through the upper manifold is open for liquid. And in general, there are no other incentives for distribution throughout the rest of the radiator volume. That is, only the area along the upper collector will really warm up - the rest of it turns out to be “outside the game”. It is hardly worth evaluating the loss of efficiency in this case - the radiator itself turns into a clearly inefficient one.

The top two-way connection is rarely used. Nevertheless, there are also such radiators - pronouncedly high, often simultaneously acting as dryers. And if you have to bring the pipes in this way, then without fail, various methods are used to turn such a connection into an optimal scheme. Very often this is already incorporated in the design of the radiators themselves, that is, the upper one-way connection remains such only visually.

How can you optimize the radiator connection scheme?

It is quite clear that any owners want their heating system to show maximum efficiency with minimal energy consumption. And for this we must try to apply the most optimal tie-in schemes. But often the piping is already there and you don’t want to redo it. Or, initially, the owners plan to lay pipes so that they become almost invisible. How to be in such cases?

On the Internet, you can find a lot of photos when they try to optimize the tie-in by changing the configuration of the pipes suitable for the battery. The effect of increasing heat transfer in this case must be achieved, but outwardly some works of such “art” look, frankly, “not very good”.

There are other methods to solve this problem.

You can purchase batteries that, while outwardly no different from ordinary ones, still have a feature in their design that turns one or another possible connection method as close to optimal as possible. In the right place between the sections, a partition is installed in them, which radically changes the direction of movement of the coolant.

In particular, the radiator can be designed for bottom two-way connection:

All the "wisdom" is in the presence of a partition (plug) in the lower manifold between the first and second sections of the battery. The coolant has nowhere to go, and it rises up vertical channel of the first section up. And then, from this high point, further distribution, quite obviously, is already underway, as in the most optimal diagram with a diagonal connection with a feed from above.

Or, for example, the case mentioned above when it is required to bring both pipes from above:

In this example, the baffle is installed on the upper manifold, between the penultimate and last sections of the radiator. It turns out that there is only one way left for the entire volume of the coolant - through the lower entrance of the last section, vertically along it - and further into the return pipe. Eventually " traffic route» fluid through the channels of the battery again becomes diagonal from top to bottom.

Many radiator manufacturers think over this issue in advance - whole series go on sale in which the same model can be designed for different tie-in schemes, but in the end an optimal “diagonal” is obtained. This is indicated in the product data sheets. At the same time, it is also important to take into account the direction of the insertion - if you change the flow vector, then the entire effect is lost.

There is another possibility to increase the efficiency of the radiator according to this principle. To do this, in specialized stores you should find special valves.

They must match their dimensions to the selected battery model. When such a valve is screwed in, it closes the adapter nipple between the sections, and then a supply or “return” pipe is packed into its internal thread, depending on the scheme.

The internal baffles shown above are intended, to a large extent, to improve heat transfer when connecting batteries on both sides. But there are ways for one-sided tie-in - we are talking about the so-called flow extensions.

Such an extension is a pipe, usually with a nominal diameter of 16 mm, which is connected to the radiator through-hole plug and, during assembly, ends up in the collector cavity, along its axis. On sale you can find such extensions for the required type of thread and the required length. Or, a special coupling is simply purchased, and the tube of the required length is selected separately for it.

Prices for metal-plastic pipes

metal-plastic pipes

What is achieved by this? Let's look at the diagram:

The coolant entering the radiator cavity, through the flow extension, enters the far upper corner, that is, to the opposite edge of the upper collector. And from here, its movement to the outlet pipe will already be carried out again according to the optimal "diagonal from top to bottom" scheme.

Many masters practice and independent production of such extension cords. If you figure it out, then nothing is impossible in this.

As the extension itself, it is quite possible to use a metal-plastic pipe for hot water with a diameter of 15 mm. It remains only from the inside to pack the fitting for the metal-plastic into the passage plug of the battery. After assembling the battery, the extension cord of the desired length is in place.

As can be seen from the foregoing, it is almost always possible to find a solution on how to turn an inefficient battery insertion scheme into an optimal one.

And what about a one-way bottom connection?

They may ask in bewilderment - why is the scheme of the lower connection of the radiator on one side not mentioned in the article yet? After all, it is quite popular, as it allows you to carry out a hidden pipe connection to the maximum extent.

But the fact is that possible schemes were considered above, so to speak, from a hydraulic point of view. And in their one-way bottom connection there is simply no place - if at one point both the coolant is supplied and the coolant is taken away, then no flow through the radiator will happen at all.

What is commonly understood under bottom one-way connection in fact, it involves only the supply of pipes to one edge of the radiator. But the further movement of the coolant through the internal channels, as a rule, is organized according to one of the optimal schemes discussed above. This is achieved either by the features of the device of the battery itself, or by special adapters.

Here is just one example of radiators specially designed for pipe connections. one side bottom:

If you understand the scheme, it immediately becomes clear that the system of internal channels, partitions and valves organizes the movement of the coolant according to the principle already known to us “one-way with supply from above”, which can be considered one of the best options. There are similar schemes, which are also supplemented with a flow extension, and then the most effective "diagonal from top to bottom" pattern is generally achieved.

Even an ordinary radiator can be easily converted into a model with a bottom connection. To do this, a special kit is purchased - a remote adapter, which, as a rule, is immediately equipped with thermal valves for thermostatic adjustment of the radiator.

The upper and lower pipes of such a device are packed into the sockets of a conventional radiator without any modifications. The result is a finished battery with a lower one-way connection, and even with a thermal control and balancing device.

So, we figured out the connection diagrams. But what else can affect the heat transfer efficiency of a heating radiator?

How does the location of the radiator on the wall affect the efficiency of the radiator?

You can purchase a very high-quality radiator, apply the optimal scheme for its connection, but in the end you will not achieve the expected heat transfer, if you do not take into account a number of important nuances of its installation.

There are several generally accepted rules for the location of batteries in a room relative to the wall, floor, window sills, and other interior items.

Most often, radiators are located under window openings. This place is still unclaimed for other objects, and besides this, heated air flows become like a thermal curtain, which largely limits the free distribution of cold from the window surface.

Of course, this is just one of the installation options, and radiators can also be mounted on walls, regardless of the presence on those window openings- it all depends on the required number of such heat exchange devices.

If the radiator is installed under the window, then they try to adhere to the rule that its length should be about ¾ of the width of the window. This way, optimal indicators of heat transfer and protection against the penetration of cold air from the window will be obtained. The battery is installed in the center, with a possible tolerance in one direction or another up to 20 mm.
The battery should not be installed too high - the window sill hanging over it can turn into a formidable barrier to ascending convection air flows, which leads to a decrease in the overall heat transfer efficiency. They try to maintain a clearance of about 100 mm (from the upper edge of the battery to the lower surface of the "visor"). If it is impossible to set all 100 mm, then at least ¾ of the thickness of the radiator.
There is a certain regulation and clearance from below, between the radiator and the floor surface. Too high an arrangement (more than 150 mm) can lead to the formation of a layer of air along the floor covering that is not involved in convection, that is, a noticeably cold layer. Too low a height, less than 100 mm, will bring unnecessary difficulties when cleaning, the space under the battery can turn into a dust accumulation, which, by the way, will also negatively affect the efficiency of heat transfer. The optimal height is within 100 ÷ 120 mm.
The optimal location from the load-bearing wall should also be maintained. Even when installing the brackets for the battery canopy, it is taken into account that there must be a free clearance of at least 20 mm between the wall and the sections. Otherwise, deposits of dust may accumulate there, and normal convection will be disturbed.

These rules can be considered indicative. If the manufacturer of radiators does not give other recommendations, then they should be guided by them. But very often in the passports of specific battery models there are diagrams that specify the recommended installation parameters. Of course, then they are taken as the basis for the installation work.

The next nuance is how open the installed battery is for full heat transfer. Of course, the maximum performance will be with a completely open installation on a flat vertical wall surface. But, quite understandably, this method is not used so often.

If the battery is under the window, then the window sill may interfere with the convection air flow. The same, even to a greater extent, applies to niches in the wall. In addition, they often try to cover radiators, or even completely closed (with the exception of the front grille) casings. If these nuances are not taken into account when choosing the required heating power, that is, the heat output of the battery, then it is quite possible to encounter the sad fact that it is not possible to achieve the expected comfortable temperature.

The table below shows the main possible options for installing radiators on the wall according to their "degrees of freedom". Each of the cases is characterized by its own indicator of the loss of efficiency of the overall heat transfer.

Illustration	Operational features of the installation option
	The radiator is installed in such a way that it does not overlap with anything from above, or the window sill (shelf) protrudes no more than ¾ of the battery thickness. In principle, there are no barriers to normal air convection. If the battery is not closed with thick curtains, then there is no interference for direct thermal radiation. In calculations, such an installation scheme is taken as a unit.
	The horizontal "visor" of the window sill or shelf completely covers the radiator from above. That is, a rather significant obstacle appears for the upward convection flow. With a normal clearance (which was already mentioned above - about 100 mm), the obstacle does not become "fatal", but certain efficiency losses are still observed. The infrared radiation from the battery remains in full. The final loss of efficiency can be estimated at about 3÷5%.
	A similar situation, but only not a visor is located on top, but a horizontal wall of a niche. Here, the losses are already somewhat greater - in addition to simply having an obstacle to the air flow, some of the heat will be spent on unproductive heating of the wall, which usually has a very impressive heat capacity. Therefore, it is quite possible to expect heat losses of approximately 7 - 8%.
	The radiator is installed as in the first option, that is, there are no obstacles to convection flows. But from the front side, over its entire area, it is covered with a decorative grille or screen. The intensity of the infrared heat flux is significantly reduced, which, by the way, is the determining principle of heat transfer for cast iron or bimetallic batteries. The total loss of heating efficiency can reach 10÷12%.
	The decorative casing covers the radiator from all sides. Despite the presence of slots or gratings to ensure heat exchange with the air in the room, the indicators of both thermal radiation and convection are sharply reduced. Therefore, we have to talk about the loss of efficiency, reaching up to 20÷25%.

So, we have considered the main schemes for connecting radiators to the heating circuit, analyzed the advantages and disadvantages of each of them. Information has been obtained on the applied methods for optimizing circuits, if for some reason it is impossible to change them in other ways. Finally, recommendations are given for placing batteries directly on the wall - indicating the risks of loss of efficiency that accompany selected installation options.

Presumably, this theoretical knowledge will help the reader to choose the correct scheme based on from the specific conditions for creating a heating system. But it would probably be logical to complete the article by giving our visitor the opportunity to independently evaluate the necessary heating battery, so to speak, in numerical terms, with reference to a specific room and taking into account all the nuances discussed above.

There is no need to be afraid - all this will be easy if you use the proposed online calculator. And below will be given the necessary brief explanations for working with the program.

How to calculate which radiator is needed for a particular room?

Everything is quite simple.

First, the amount of thermal energy that is needed to heat the room, depending on its volume, and to compensate for possible heat losses is calculated. And, a rather impressive list of versatile criteria is taken into account.
Then the obtained value is adjusted depending on the planned radiator tie-in scheme and the features of its location on the wall.
The final value will show how much power a radiator needs to fully heat a particular room. If a collapsible model is purchased, then you can at the same time